Everlast 160i STH Review, Cheap TIG Welder with Good Features

[@j.hunter5007]

I am having the same HF start problems with a new Power i-Tig 200T from Everlast. Another issue that really chaffs me; when I bought the welder, Everlast's website claimed it would weld with 6010 rods. NOW their site says 6011 only. THAT little bait and switch fib is a BIG issue for me. Starting to wish I had gone with my original option and bought the Amico (for half the price). Edit: I spoke with the US tech support. They suggested trying different spark gap distances for the HF pins. The "manual" says the gap should be between 0.029" to 0.035". I measured the "shipped" gap at 0.022". BTW, this particular model DOES NOT feature an easily adjustable spark gap for HF. No screws to turn for adjustment. The spark gap design looks like they just took two blades from inside a mechanical relay and SOLDERED them to a circuit board. Access to the spark gap blades is almost impossible. I was told to "bend" these blades and that the gap distance wasn't that critical. IMO, this is NOT a very well designed welder. My company builds CNC machines (including the circuit boards), and I know what a well designed circuit board should look like.

[@1trucxhondamov589]

I was going to ask about the stick mode! Thanks! No 6010,...bummer!

[@BrandonLeeBrown]

I have a 200T and the website says it can weld E6010, but is best to use E6011.

[@stefanczechorskidds5536]

wow, nice arc shots! Thanks for the vid.!

[@Steelcrafted]

I'm currently trying to decide between this and a 185dv....I have a big ac/dc shop machine, but need a portable tig....the 185 would be sweet, but I go back and forth lol

[@tsl7881]

I just stumbled onto your testing of this machine. I had singled out the expensive Esab180i and this Everlast as candidates before I found your vids. I think they only tried to beat the titanium 225 's dismal 75A @110v output ( why bother designing it to run off 110? They didn't) 90A will burn most 3/32 rods well , at least for a couple of minutes. Everlast has a lot of older design welders for sale, an almost confusing number of models mixed with old and new. This would be an excellent portable welder to update with PF correction even if it add $100, but advertise it as a portable welder or maybe even a home garage welder that works well on most existing wiring. This welder sucks as much current as any inverter in this output range, which is about 15-20% better efficiency than a transformer buzz box.

[@tsl7881]

On a note I was primarily looking for a portable stick welder, so I got the ESAB 180i. Everlast has the 161 model that includes pulse for about $50 more.

[@jcampostv991]

Quick question i am new to welding and currently in welding school but was looking forward to buying a not to expensive welder for pipe welding and was wondering if this is a good choice ? So i could practice at home with. I also have my own tig torch and not sure if it will fit or are all adapters the same size ?

[@bigtb1717]

At least in terms of Dinse connectors, there are really two sizes: Dinse 25 and Dinse 35. The big thing to watch out for is the gas hose connection for the torch. Those vary much more from machine to machine. You can get torch adapters to make pretty much any torch work on any machine, but the connectors aren't universal, so it is something to be aware of. If you will want to run 6010 stick for your practice, I'd recommend looking for a different machine. This welder doesn't have a 6010 mode and doesn't run it well. If you will only be using TIG, then it's an okay machine.

[@RAW040]

I've been trying to decide between the Everlast 161STH and the 210STL to use primarily as a stick welder that I would take with me to jobs for equipment and farm repairs. I don't plan on running electrodes larger than 1/8, but I typically run 6011, 7014, and 7018. I would occasionally use it for TIG welding as well. Would the 160STH be enough to run in that application, or would you recommend the 210STL? The 160 has some cool TIG features that the 210 lacks, but again the main purpose is to be a stick welder for jobsite and farm repairs.

[@bigtb1717]

I think the 160 would probably be enough for your application. Would you be running off 120V or 240V?

[@bigtb1717]

The reason I ask is that the 210STL has more output on 120V than the 160iSTH. But on 240V, both have more than enough power to run a 1/8" electrode.

[@RAW040]

@@bigtb1717 That's a good question, and something I didn't consider. Ideally I would try to run it off of 240, but I've had jobs in the past where 240 simply wasn't available and I was limited to just 120. I typically run a splitter with a 240v receptacle out of the bottom of the nearest electrical panel, but some jobsites don't allow for hot-work without a permit. In those cases, I'm stuck with 120.

[@bigtb1717]

Keep in mind, I doubt either of those machines has power factor correction. It will still work fine, but when running maxed out on 120V, it will likely draw quite a bit of current. If you want to be able to reliably run a 1/8" electrode off 120V, something like an ESAB Rogue 180i with power factor correction would be more capable on 120V, even thought the max output is still only 120amps on 120V. It will draw much less current at 120 amps, so it will be less likely to trip a breaker, will run better off an extension cord, etc. But of the two Everlast machines, the 160iSTH only has 90 amps max output on 120V, the 210 has 120 amps max. You would be mostly limited to 3/32" electrodes with the 160 on 120V. The 210 would likely run a 1/8" electrode when maxed out on 120V, but again, be aware that it will probably draw 30+ amps (maybe even 40), so it will trip a 20 amp breaker if you run very long beads.

[@bigtb1717]

Take a look at the Klutch ST201IDV as well. Similar price, advanced TIG features, good stick welding and power factor correction with 120 amps of output on 120V input. It's available at Northern Tool for around $400-$450 last I checked.

[@1trucxhondamov589]

GR8 REVIEW! Esab and Everlast are on my short list, I forgot about Tig. Have you compared Esab to Everlast?

[@bigtb1717]

I haven't done a video on it. I would say the Everlast has an advantage for TIG due to the high frequency start, gas solenoid and extra features for TIG. The ESAB is better for stick because of a smoother arc, adjustable arc force, higher output overall, higher output on 120V and the ability to run 6010 very well. It also looks and feels much better built and I have more confidence in the warranty. The ESAB can use a foot pedal, but it will still be lift start and you'll have to use a torch with a valve. If you can deal with those limitations, it will TIG weld just fine. And the TIG output on 120V is 140 amps, which is very good.

[@provenancemachining]

So would it actually be better to grab the PowerArc 200STi and grab the tig accessories separate down the road? I think I'd rather pay for the most power outright rather than fork over that extra $100-$200 just to have the TIG stuff in one package but stuck dealing with a lower power machine, especially since you can find some higher quality torches used at a decent price.

[@bigtb1717]

The PowerArc 200STI doesn't have a built-in gas solenoid or high frequency start adn doesn't have the capability of using a foot pedal. It can do lift start TIG, but you would need a torch with a valve. Don't get me wrong, you certainly don't need those features to get good TIG work done, but they are nice to have. Personally, if TIG was my focus I'd rather have a 160 amp machine with a foot pedal, gas solenoid and high frequency start than a 200 amp machine with no remote amperage control.

[@provenancemachining]

@@bigtb1717 Fair enough, I guess at this low of a price point I can't complain too much. I mostly do firearm work, so TIG is essential unless I'm doing large receivers like that of the Bren, DPM, and the RPD. I like Everlast, considering Amico's lack of QA scares the hell out of me sometimes, so I guess the 160i STH is looking to be my best option for a budget TIG machine especially with dual voltage and not horrible power output at 240v.

[@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10]

Nice machine I think. I've considered purchasing that one myself but opted for the PrimeWeld 225X instead for the AC capabilities and best warranty in the business IMO. Question for you, would you be willing to share your secret for filming ark shots or even do a video about it? I've played with it a little lately but I haven't been too successful. Is a fast lens required? Do you use an ND filter? How do you focus, Auto or Manual? Any hints and advice would be appreciated. I think your ark shots look fantastic!

[@bigtb1717]

Thanks. For arc shots I used to use a thread-on, variable ND filter, but I got a lot of color shift towards magenta and it was difficult to always get it set the same. Those problems will depend on the quality of the filter (more expensive ones would be better), but that's what I got from the one I had. I now have a Sony camera with built-in ND filters. I'm sure you could also use a simple, fixed ND filter as well. It's probably what I would do if I didn't have the Sony with built-in ND now. The only thing I have on the camera I use (Sony AX700) is a clear filter to protect the lens from any possible spatter/sparks. I use manual focus and manual exposure mode on the camera. When I set up a shot I have the ND filter off and the camera set to give a bright view so I can focus. I focus around the halfway point of the intended bead. Then I turn on the ND filter, adjust the lens aperture to F8 or so and the shutter speed to 1/200th or so. At that point the image on the little display is totally black, so I have to set my focus first. The specific aperture and shutter settings I use will depend on how much amperage I'm running and how well I want to show the arc vs. showing a more overall view of the weld. I sometimes do a few quick tests at different settings to figure out where I want the exposure. Even a cheap camera could probably get decent footage with a cheap, fixed ND filter, as long as you have manual exposure and focus control.

[@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10]

@@bigtb1717 Thanks for the info! I've been doing the same method for focus but I tried 1/2000th for shutter speed. Maybe that's my issue. I'll give your suggestions a try and fiddle around with it some more. Maybe I'll be able to get some better quality ark shots. I really appreciate your detailed explanation!

[@bigtb1717]

No problem. If you have any specific questions about settings or anything while you are messing around with it, let me know. The settings you use will depend on how dark of an ND filter you are using, or if you are even using one at all.

[@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10]

@@bigtb1717 I am using a variable ND filter and it's on a Canon M50 with the kit lens 15-45mm f/3.5-6.3 IS STM Lens

[@bigtb1717]

Oh yeah, you should be able to get good footage with that, just might take a little experimentation to get your settings dialed in. I know I feel a lot more comfortable having my camera close to my TIG welds because there is no spatter.

[@summerforever6736]

Is this better than the 460$ klutch welder? Thanks

[@bigtb1717]

I can't say which will hold up better long term, but I actually prefer the Klutch ST201iDV. The Everlast is fine, but the Klutch has more output, has power factor correction, and stick welds nicer.

[@mesothelioma5024]

Can you upgrade it with a flex neck?

[@bigtb1717]

You could certainly swap out the torch for something else. I believe CK and other companies make a torch adapter with the proper connections, so you should be able to use pretty much any torch.

[@michaelhallas6450]

Does the fan always stay on ?

[@bigtb1717]

Yes it does. The fan runs all the time the welder is turned on.

[@MrChiburi]

Do you think the Everlast 161STH is worth the extra $140-$150 or so?

[@bigtb1717]

The main difference is that the 161STH has TIG pulse and a 6010 stick mode, so it can run 6010 rods (the 160i specifically says it is not recommended for use with 6010). Personally, these two features are rarely used and I would go with the 160i. But it whether it's worth it to you will come down to whether or not those features are worth the difference to you. The 161 also has adjustable pre-flow on TIG and Arc force on Stick. Not as big a deal, but those are the other two differences. Spec wise, in terms of output amps and duty cycle, they both appear the same.

[@MrChiburi]

@@bigtb1717 Thanks again for the review and response. I was pretty much thinking the same thing after comparing both. Im looking for something like this because of the size. The Primeweld and AHP are a bit bulky. I'm more interested in the TIG side so this might fit the bill for me.

[@pl747]

I checked it out. The duty cycle is pretty low.

[@tsl7881]

Not as low as HF titaniu's 15%.