Easiest Grid-Tied Solar On The Market! Plug-N-Play

[@everydaysolar]

NEP Micro-Inverter - geni.us/1RZsP8 Calculate Solar Cost For Your Home - geni.us/solar_reviews DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.

[@chrisyang6791]

have you continued testing? does it have better durability than the other unit you tested? The cost in the link seems high, compared to other units I'm seeing online.

[@junkerzn7312]

Note: 110V, 115V, 120V... all the same thing. 220V, 230V, 240V... also the same thing. Just depends on your local utility distribution. In the U.S., voltages have trended upward over the decades because the higher voltages allow considerably more power to be transmitted on the same distribution lines. Basically these 120VAC (roughly) micro-inverters work just like normal 240VAC in that they synchronize to the line waveform that they see on the circuit. But there are a number of issues that people need to keep in mind: (1) 120VAC micro-inverters are generally NOT very efficient. 85%-90% is typical. 240VAC micro-inverters tend to run 95-98% efficient. This also means that 120VAC micro-inverters run a lot hotter than a typical 240VAC Enphase micro-inverter would. (2) You are back-feeding into just one side of the 240VAC split-phase going into your home, so the loading on the utility transformer is not symmetrical. This is typically not an issue as long as you are not back-feeding too much power since of course most normal house loads are unbalanced as well. (3) You are back-feeding into the middle or the end of a branch circuit. This is actually illegal. No, you won't get thrown into jail, but you might end up with a fine if you advertise what you are doing. It is only legal to back-feed into a dedicated breaker, with nothing else on that circuit. In addition the home must be on a solar tariff / backfeeding must be allowed by the utility. (4) Back-feeding into the middle or the end of a branch circuit BYPASSES YOUR BREAKER. This can be dangerous because depending on the topology this allows devices on your branch circuit to pull more amps than the house wiring might be able to support. This is an issue if you are plugged the back-feed into the middle of the branch-circuit. Devices sitting at the end of the branch-circuit can now consume the entire line breaker's amperage PLUS the backfed amperage without tripping the breaker. The result is that the house's in-wall wiring can catch fire. (5) There is the possibility that the micro-inverter will continue feeding devices on the branch circuit even if the breaker trips. This is obviously dangerous. -- So, that's the skinny on these 120VAC micro-inverters and why the only ones you see are junk brands. They aren't really meant for U.S. consumers. They are mostly sold to Chinese, Indian, and consumers of other countries with less robust or more expensive grids. Now if you STILL want to do this, I have some suggestions: * Never run any high-power devices on the circuit you are back-feeding into. * Dedicate the entire circuit to the back-feed.... but if you can't, then: * Back-feed into the END of the branch circuit... the last outlet in the chain, to minimize the chance of an in-wall home-wiring fire. * Note that you are still bypassing your breaker. * Do not back-feed more than roughly 500W (4A) on a 15A circuit. * Maybe consider not doing this at all. -- Typical questions: * Will the utility meter deal with one leg back-feeding and the other leg forward-feeding ? Answer: Smart meters typically handle this correctly if they are already solar-enabled (i.e. you already have home solar and a contract with the utility and the utility expects you to backfeed). Dumb meters typically won't handle this correctly. But you might want to test it because if it doesn't handle it correctly the energy can wind up being billed to you as consumption. * Will the utility company find out? Answer1: If you actually manage to back-feed power all the way to the grid, and you are not already on a solar tariff, and you have a smart-meter, the utility will know immediately and might get unhappy with you. Maybe consider ensuring that the home eats more power on that leg then you are back-feeding so you don't actually back-feed the utility. Answer2: If you are on a solar grid-tie tariff and not a solar + battery tariff, and you back-feed after sundown, the utility will figure it out and might get angry with you. * Just how dangerous is this really? Answer: It's all on you bro! I aint gonna say its safe, but I will say if you do it keep the wattages fairly low. * How many people in the U.S. use these sorts of plug-in micro-inverters ? Answer: Too many. * Are these 120VAC micro-inverters UL compliant. Answer: No. None of them are. Even if they say they are, they aren't. None of them follow the timing rules, none of them have insulation testing, none of them detect out-spec grid conditions. Most of them WILL disconnect if the grid goes down but not always... if your loads match the output they might not disconnect because most of these micro-inverters just use voltage sensing... if they are able to push the waveform too high they know they aren't connected to the grid and will stop. -Matt

[@jasonbroom7147]

Matt - You're obviously very well-versed in this and probably an installer, so I would like to ask you a question about these 120v micro-inverters. Say you built a dedicated, off-grid system, including a service panel with proper breakers, and that's where you brought the power in from a PV array. This would be 120v exclusively, powering only 120v loads, downstream from the panel...no plugging into an outlet. Under those circumstances, what concerns would you have about using these 120v micro-inverters?

[@JohnBaker3000]

Lots of great info. Thank-you!

[@junkerzn7312]

@@jasonbroom7147 In an actual professional install, or even when DIYing a large system, do not use 120V micro-inverters, ever. Simplest answer. I can pretty much guarantee you that 120VAC micro-inverters do not implement any of the standards correctly and building a big system with them will result in a fire, problems, failures, over-volted appliances... don't do it. In a dedicated off-grid system it is best to use DC-coupled (string) solar fed into charge controllers and not micro-inverters. The reason is that it is far, far, far, far easier to build a rock-solid system when you don't have to deal with frequency shifting (UL1741SA). You also want to optimize the DC path when off-grid because the battery storage is incredibly important. If you decide you want to use micro-inverters anyway (aka "AC-coupled" solar) in your off-grid system you still don't use 120V micro-inverters. You use 240V micro-inverters (98%+ efficient) coupled into a hybrid solar inverter that has a split-phase output. That gives you two hot legs and a neutral that you can put into a standard AC breaker box and pull out 120VAC and 240VAC circuits as needed, just like you get with a utility AC breaker box. -Matt

[@ericelfner]

I was thinking, this can't be legal. Thanks for the very detailed response . 👊

[@devorlast]

This kind of setup, with low wattage, could be used to power the branch with the main breaker off though. You could have a breaker facing the PV, so when you want to use it you switch the utility breaker off, switch the PV on and use the PV on that circuit only. You still have to make sure the wiring can handle the amperage but if the utility breaker for the branch is let's say 15a than having a 15a facing the PV would ensure the same level of protection. With a battery added you could use this to power some patio lights in the evening or other small loads. As long as you disconnect the utility before turning on the PV breaker the risk is minimal, mainly limited to the PV setup. Another use could be powering lights in an outdoor shed, this way you don't have to run a cable from your utility box at all and just use the PV plus battery.

[@TurTurHamMan]

So glad I found this video. I saw your first one with the 1200W amazon grid-tie inverter and that seemed cool - but good to know that it pooped out (maybe worth pinning a comment on that video to share the information, and maybe a link to this video for a better affiliate option). Stoked that actually certified options are becoming available! I would love to see a video from you about increasing solar coverage without voiding NEM status! I (and a few of my peers) are in a similar boat where we have 'commercial' solar set-ups through installers and have existing net-metering set-up with our utilities, but are interested in increased solar production without voiding that (and potentially cheaply/DIY to prevent a new interconnect/NEM application) I have been doing research about ways to do so (like 'islanding' a functionally off-grid install, or using a grid tie solution like this but keeping additions below the NEM) and you seem really knowledgeable so I know myself and likely others could benefit from hearing your honest thoughts about options to increase solar production in a DIY manner!

[@dstaedeli]

Great video. You didn't mention if this automatically shuts off if the grid goes down and it would not backfeed into the grid? Also I would be interested if for such a system, there is a way to manually cut the main breaker (in case of black out) and then start using that little bit of solar power in my house?

[@dupre7416]

I have those same sawhorses. They are awesome.

[@martyt419]

It's awesome having a UL certified plug-n-play coming out - Amazon is great but who knows if the vendors selling appliances won't burn your house down. Great review as always.

[@gopackgo69]

Great video, i just rewatched your previous video with the amazon set up, and this popped up. I think I'll look into this new version. Keep up the good content.

[@everydaysolar]

Thanks for the support 🙌

[@danielcraig9349]

For the price of the kit, I got a jackery 1000V2 explorer on Lightning deal black Friday for $399.00 and then also purchased a LiTime 100AH 12v battery with the grade A cells for +15k cycles for abourt $139.00. That will be satisfactory for what I want to do with it, which is to run a small 300w electric mini heater in my unheated back pantry / laundry room over the winter so that I can keep the door closed and not run the main furnace so much. Just has to keep the temp above 45 degrees. In the summer, I have a small inverter window AC to keep it under 80 back there, because it can reach 100 pretty quick on a hot summer day. My 600w panels feeding that from the field should be sufficient to not raise my electric too much except when it's cloudy/rainy/night time here in rural PA. The great thing about a jackery is that in the spring and summer when I don't need heat or ac back there, I can use it's electricity for other things, like the Fridge or my son can take it camping.

[@StefanLasiewski]

Plug & play balcony solar kits are available in Europe, including products that can provide battery storage to offset high rates during peak hours, which increased in popularity during the European 2021/2022 energy cris. One such example would be the EcoFlow PowerStream which is not available in the US. These systems are considered relatively safe in the EU due to how the EU system works, but I don't understand the details. In the US, the standard wisdom is that a grid-tie system should NOT be plugged into a wall outlet due to safety concerns with the US how the US electrical systems work with scary talk about backfeeding & suicide cords, and thus concepts like plug & play and balcony solar kits have been frowned upon for a while. This is the first plug & play balcony system that I've seen for the US market that is UL certified. The NEP BDM-300 micro inverter has UL 1741 certification & provides NEC 2020 690.12 Rapid Shutdown for safety (Great!) & a number of other certifications. I suppose this is also safe because the output is limited -- the BDM-800 is max 800W, where a rooftop solar system will can easily be 5-20X that amount.

[@everydaysolar]

Thanks for the feedback, I will be interested to see where these type of systems develop in the US market. I think there is a demand 👍

[@ahaveland]

Saving a dollar or two a day adds up over the years, and you're giving a finger to the utilities and helping to decarbonize which has its own value. And it's also fascinating!

[@goodcitizen4587]

Decarbonize is lefty scam.

[@dstaedeli]

it's more like 26 cents a day (depending on your electricity cost). We pay $013 / kwh and this thing produces 2kwh / day on average. it would take 8.43 years to pay off the $800, about the same as a "big expensive on the roof system" would actually... of course with inflation these 8 years could be cut down drastically, nobody knows!

[@ahaveland]

@@dstaedeli Still better than a kick in the teeth... In California I think peak rate is about 50¢, so savings are better. For me, it's not just about the money, I got solar because it's just the right thing to do and makes me feel good to be independent.

[@shelley131]

Have been an admirer of your videos for a long time because you make a rock (me) get it. I had to say it, this time you lost me when you said I did not need to connect this and that. I am visual learner and would have learned from actually you doing the plug and play without all the ofter stuff. Eventually I will get it seeing your video a few hundred times. Keep up the great work.

[@everydaysolar]

Thanks so much for the feedback.

[@RGree-co9dy]

Can you plug a 240v inverter into a 240v plug? Or do you have to do a 120v system?

[@thomasa.8839]

was the inverter grounded? is it necessary?

[@Gordon013]

Do you have an automatic transfer switch installed? When the power goes out what prevents the PV from sending power out to the utility? Also I'm assuming your enphase system has a transfer switch. I know mine does, but I also have a enphase battery backup. Along the same line does your DIY setup interfere with the enphase disconnect/transfer switch if the power goes out?

[@TurTurHamMan]

Also interested in this! He did mentioned the UL 1741 certification, and I believe that specification allows the device to back-feed correctly given the grid conditions.

[@eddietee6305]

It should stop backfeeding the grid. Safety. The power company might be working on the lines and this would be a conflict.

[@gizmobowen]

Fun video. Thanks for making it. I've got a couple used 300W panels sitting in my shop and was looking for something like this. My difficulty is my power rate is only about 8 cents per kWh, so the ROI on this is just too far out to make back the cost of the inverter. Would have been fun to play with, but not something I have to have. Thanks again for showing off this inverter.

[@SvenZwaaneveld]

Wow thats awesome! In the netherlands we pay 30/40 euro cents per kwh

[@everydaysolar]

Yeah, I am in the same position so without Renewable Energy Credits (which we have in our state) and Net Metering it is hard to make the math work from an investment perspective at $0.08/kWh.

[@joelm077]

@@everydaysolar I have net meter and I get about $65 a year on this set up? Is that math right at .09 per kWh? makes it a 6.5 year payoff as I do not have Energy Credits.

[@TurTurHamMan]

oof - California resident here representing $0.62 / kWh 😬

[@Goodkiwibloke]

These are good micro inverters. I use them in a slightly different application. I connect them to my home battery, and discharge to grid overnight

[@JohnBaker3000]

Does the NEP unit have rapid shutdown when the grid goes down? Ul 3741

[@JohnBaker3000]

According to the spec sheet, it has rapid shutdown. That would be nice to test to verify.

[@richardwernst]

Very cool, thanks. What state are you in/what permitting do you need for this? Also, do you have a video on standalone solar charging, 220, for an electric car?

[@al9929]

I read all 125 comments upto the date of this comment. Not one mention of the ability to trip the main breaker switch for grid supply to panel. In case of grid down one can manually switch off grid supply before pluggong in a solar supplied micro inverter into your wall. If taking other saftey measures in place, it may be a good back up for brown outs. The caveat is one has to have neighbors on grid to see when grid goes live again so you can reverse the breaker switches.

[@landysok90]

I have a similar system, the inverter will detect no power from the grid and automatically switch over

[@zodiacfml]

I've seen plug n play solar on Amazan maybe since 2017. But the more I think about it, one would eventually need/install more-proper solar installation is must. There is still niche for this like condo-apartment with a nice balcony that faces the sun.

[@nephalem_d3887]

Is there a similarly easy way to use a system like this to plug in an EV directly? I'm thinking of using a system like this that is mounted on a car port or cover, that my vehicle can plug into directly.

[@danielalonzo8628]

i read on the other inverter u can only add up to 300wat panel per side

[@paytonpalmer7927]

I’m assuming this could be used on an RV that is plugged into a 50amp service?

[@footprinthero]

Nice! Was hoping for a follow-up to your previous setup

[@everydaysolar]

Thanks Alex!

[@tolishel]

So what happens if at one point your house doesn't use anything, everything is off, even your refrigerator is resting... and your grid tie mini solar is still producing lets say around 400Watts what happens to the power, it goes to the grid right? And what happens to the regular grid power meter, does it keep accumulating forward or going in reverse, or is sitting still? Do the power company have to install for you a special power meter on your house to be able to read power going both ways? maybe this scenario will be rare, but what if you double the size of your solar?

[@CaptainBlood1935]

I'm new to solar and a little intimidated. Could I use these grid tied plug in micro inverter to feed power to my house from batteries with a timer to only feed during peak charge times? And then use a battery charger on a timer to only charge the battery from the grid on the cheapest over night rates?

[@StuffTested]

Hi Scott! Could you make something similar to this for like a lifepo4 battery setup? Not a pre-done Delta Ecoflow battery though.

[@ES-yi8vv]

I am curious can you just plug this set up into any outlet around your house?

[@WarrenBowman]

I have been looking for a way to charge my EV directly from solar. Would I be able to do that if I got the 220V version of this inverter?

[@powerwall]

do you use 12V battery? Orient Power could send you one.

[@tjevo4g]

Scott, can you make a video about a completely off-grid DIY solar setup that is using an Ecoflow Delta 2 Max to power a mini split? Have a detached shed project in mind that doesn't currently have power, but I'd like to convert it to a WFH office. Edit: Got the inspiration from your recent shed project. Would like to do similar, except expand upon that with more panels and the Delta 2 Max (with extra battery, which I already have).

[@ccow11]

How did this work out? I have been looking into getting a portable mini split AKA air conditioner with heating and using that to heat my office directly from solar during the day instead of turning on the entire heating zone to that area of my house from oil. Portable ACs always had a bad rep but The new Madea Duo models having inverters and can work as heat pumps, so I'm not as concerned about efficiency if I'm running it directly off solar versus a space heater.

[@tjevo4g]

@@ccow11 Never got around to the shed project, but in my primary bedroom I installed a 120v EG4 hybrid mini split that is connected directly to an Ecoflow Delta 2 Max. Since I am primarily using the mini split at night the Ecoflow is better for me vs connecting the solar panels directly to the mini split. The Ecoflow gets power input from 2x 450w solar panels. The mini split plugs directly into the Ecoflow and runs exclusively off battery. I use the EG4 "AC Limiter" option when running, so it tends to max out around 350w during usage, which leaves me around 4-6 hours of usage before needing to recharge via solar. Weather here doesn't often get below 40F at night, so I rarely run it for more than an hour or two at a time, about 4 hours in total per day (1-2hrs for bedtime and 1-2hrs waking up).

[@jerrydawg4434]

So if I wanted to do four panels I would need two of those microinverters into separate 20 amp circuits?

[@TheFutureisTheFuture]

I have a Delta Pro Ultra and I'm trying to get it to charge from my grid-tied solar system. The solar company that I am leasing from says I can add a battery backup but I can't touch any of their equipment. Can I just tap into the feed going to the main panel after the solar meter, and add another subpanel and an outlet to charge the Delta, and the rest goes back to the grid? Seems simply enough but I'm not sure if I am missing something. If I can't do that I can just charge from solar panels like you are but it seems foolish to add panels when I already have 56 on my roof 🙂

[@aznick102]

Scott, the website states "It (NEP Microinverter) can take unto 2 x 24V panels (300+ Watt panels)." Is this saying it can only handle solar panels with VOC of 24v or less?

[@davidkearl2693]

Input voltage for the BDM-500 600X is 22-55VDC so if your solar panel has open circuit voltage between that range it will work. BDM-500 max power is 375Watt for each input (375 X 2) inverter will clip power at 500 Watts (so maximum power out 500w for both inputs) BDM-600 max power is 450Watt for each input (450 X2) inverter will clip power at 600 Watts ( so maximum power out 600W for both inputs)

[@Krunch2020]

NEP BDM-800 is available at SS for $200.

[@hey8you]

Id love to have something like this at my condo. The only problem is I don't believe I get enough sunlight so I'm not sure it would be worth the cost.

[@akasha1337]

Can you plug straight to the grid no other equipment needed?

[@davids.9834]

Technically..yes, but legally...no. There are many negative things that could happen at least here in the USA. unless you have a netmeter you could spin your power meter backwards causing the power company to contact you or the meter spinning backwards could actually add to your bill instead of subtracting. Unless your out in the bondocks somewhere with an old meter and billybob is the local utility tech.... I would not try this. Will it work? maybe, but again, in an urban area with updated meters, chances are your going to get a fine. Now, I dont make a complete stop at stop signs either and its all about risk/reward ratio. I would say "use at your own risk". Here in the capitalistic USA, systems like this are going to have a steep uphill battle to become legal. Yes they work. No they aren't all that dangerous if UL approved. THE problem is they cut into utility profits and if everyone can just buy something at Walmart and plug it in............................ again a lot of lobbing against this type of thing.

[@frostyfroze7352]

I’m assuming you have a bidirectional utility grid meter, as far as I understand the average house utility meter will accumulate kilowatts, not able to distinguish direction and you get charged for electricity going back to the grid as well, you have any thoughts on this?

[@wholev1251]

His main system on the roof and how that is wired implies that. Wish he would have said that in the beginning of the video. Like this is not a way to get started, you NEED to have the right meter to get money back.

[@Roll2Videos]

I was told my meter does not distinguish between power going in or power going out. In other words if I was to send power out I would be billed as if it was coming in.

[@Nolaman70]

Because he has solar already, he has a meter designed for net metering.

[@speedmatters]

Is there anything like this available in the UK that's legal and just plug and play upto 1kW of panels? The Ecoflow Powerstream looks good, but it was pulled form sale due to legal and safety issues - and it's only working with EcoFlow batteries. There is so much conflicting data on these sytems and their UK legality and safety.

[@sanchezcruz20]

Curious as to how your Enphase system interpreted this additional solar generation that is not going through the Gateway?

[@depazz]

does this setup interfere with anti-islanding requirements?

[@leoparman7933]

I was wondering if i have a currently installed string inverter running, could i just plug this in an AC socket and work? or will it conflict in anyway with the string inverter?

[@DaHaiZhu]

How did you plug it into your garage outlet without it interfering with your home power?

[@junkerzn7312]

It's a microinverter so it synchronizes to the AC line waveform it sees at the outlet. There are numerous issues though, so I'll make a top-level post outlining them.

[@joeyhazlett]

Grid-tied inverters like this are designed to synchronize with the grid power they are connected to, and output in the same frequency and voltage as that grid power.

[@mjmeans7983]

Can you provide a link to the 240V split phase version?

[@willwade1101]

How well would a system like this work with an automatic transfer switch and how could I step it up to 24 volts?

[@weloveups831]

I have questions on payback. In so many videos, it appears that the componets fail or degrade. Then, there is the roof with shingles needing repair from poor installation. Point being how does that factor into the 25 year savings I saw in your video.

[@vladimus9749]

Don't do roof mount unless you have a 50 year roof (metal). Ground mount is much easier, cheaper, and low risk.

[@Bripromo]

Can you use this micro inverter as off grid setup ?

[@jcallesano]

Trying to find a video or any information whatsoever on how to hook a solar system to an existing generator Outlet set I already have on the outside of my house. I already have a separate sub panel in my basement adjacent to my house panel that has the critical circuits on it that I could shut on and off for line for generator power. I'm looking to set up a solar system that I can plug right into the 30 amp connector where the generator is supposed to be plugged into

[@bigskyproducers]

so you have this plugged into a 120v outlet in your garage? Does it need it's own circuit or any will be fine? looking at doing this

[@MtnXfreeride]

Maybe I missed it, but a system like this risky because it allows backfeeding and doesnt have a system to shut off if power is disconnected? I thought nearly all utility companies ban this stuff

[@everydaysolar]

UL 1741 is the certification that ensures the micro inverter only provides power when power is detected at the outlet/grid.

[@mikespangler98]

They do. Check with the local building inspector Before using this. You don't want a dead lineman on your conscience.

[@Glen-r2j]

I'm living in sunny southwestern AZ. I'm looking to create a isolated solar system just to run my room window AC unit to offset the high energy bill I get each summer month. (up to 119* daytime temp). Is this even possible? Do I need an enormous battery bank to accommodate the electrical surge when the AC unit's compressor kicks in? And yes I'm a big electrical klutz hard to understand whats going on. Smart enough to know when to ask for help. HELP! Would appreciate any and all informative ...... non-harassment comments. Thanks in advance, Me southern AZ.

[@Heyth3re]

This is one of the videos I was waiting for. Main reason, you already have an enphase system installed. I was hesitant to do something similar since I didn't know if adding a 110v grid tie would conflict with the 220v enphase production. Also, I would love to see if you can connect a battery directly to the grid tie inverter, that way we can offset some of the energy consumption during the peak hours that are usually when the sun is down.

[@joeyhazlett]

No, it won't affect or interfere with the 220v system, but you will be adding power to only one leg of your 220v power if you have a single microinverter like this plugged in. At

[@junkerzn7312]

In terms of connecting a battery, it depends on the grid-tie inverter. * Always connect the battery side with an inline fuse or breaker because the inverter is expecting a solar input and will try to sweep the input, and some inverters can just about short the "solar" input while doing that. Those obviously won't work with batteries. * Make sure that the grid-tie inverter does not output beyond its rating while connected to the battery. In fact, make sure it doesn't go above roughly 75% of its rating if you want the thing to last. * Generally speaking connecting a lower-voltage to the micro-inverter causes it to output less wattage. So in terms of battery voltages, typically a 24V (25.6V LiFePO4) battery system voltage is close to ideal. 12V might be too little (not even turn the micro-inverter on), and 48V might be too much (cause the micro-inverter to output too much power and over-heat). * Do not let the micro-inverter drain the battery all the way down to BMS disconnect if you can help it. It isn't good for the battery or the BMS to do that daily. Generally speaking a solid-state DC-capable relay with a voltage sense on the battery side is used to disconnect the micro-inverter earlier, or a cheap timer on the AC side can be used to only run it for a set period of time. Do not use a cheap AC relay to switch DC on the battery side. I wouldn't even use a DC relay. I'd use a solid-state relay with a big heat sink. Most people just hook up a cheap timer on the AC side's plug since that is fairly easy to do and tends to be safer. But make sure the wattage is less than 50% what the timer is rated for. -Matt

[@Heyth3re]

@@joeyhazlett thanks for your time and explanation 👍🏻

[@Heyth3re]

@@junkerzn7312 thanks to you too Matt. I do appreciate you guys took your time to explain some caveats of the setup I presented

[@44richyrich]

How can I add batteries to this setup?

[@BurhanAjmal-l3w]

Is there any Chinese micro inverter in the market. that works off-grid and on-grid both ways?

[@NathanJones-yk8vf]

Does this unit output power when it is not plugged into the grid or the power is down?

[@everydaysolar]

Nope, only when power is detected at the plug.

[@seyi8206]

Would this work in LADWP territory? Would one need to file for interconnection under NEM and get LADWP permission if the inverter is UL 1741 certified?

[@Popounited]

Can we use any type of micro inverter? Like enphase iq7 ? The connections is what is confusing the sht out of me, i go to fb marketplace and they have them for like $70 solar panels 400w for $100 im thinking awesome, but how do i connect this to my home.

[@rustyoffgrid]

Can you parralel 2 panels and plug into inverter?

[@everydaysolar]

Yep! I was considering something similar which would then mean on sunny days you would be clipping as the micro-inverter would throttle the current. The big benefit if you have cheap used panels is you would be getting substantially more on cloudy and less than perfectly sunny days with a lower investment.

[@Geremia08]

Mine just flashes red 2 seconds, off 2 seconds (standby mode), and doesn't produce power. Do I have a defective inverter? 5:03: The manual says 1 second on, 1 second off means it's producing power.

[@Geremia08]

Where can I buy these microinverters?

[@gavinator354]

im assuming this is only beneficial during any energy use during the day as you dont have it connected to a battery storage system, right?

[@everydaysolar]

Yep, and without Net Metering you would be only getting the benefit if you are offsetting consumption for other circuits and appliances.

[@gavinator354]

@@everydaysolar oh? and WITH net metering, what changes then?

[@f1rstprinciple]

Can you prevent sending power to the grid? If you send power to the grid then you will likely need city permit.

[@joeyhazlett]

He already has an Enphase grid-tied system that will send power to the grid, or since he mentioned that it has sensors on the main legs, it will compensate for these devices and output less from the Enphase-controlled system. If you do not have an existing system, and do not have a net metering agreement with your utility, you should not attempt to do this without understanding how exporting power works with your provider. You could definitely get charged for giving them free electricity.

[@junkerzn7312]

No, the micro-inverter has no way of knowing. If the house uses more power on that leg than the micro-inverter is back-feeding, it won't back-feed to the grid. If the house is using less, it will (at least, it will back-feed past the utility meter). A full off-grid setup is possible but generally pretty expensive. One needs an off-grid inverter that understands AC-coupled micro-inverters to provide the "utility" waveform for the micro-inverters, with batteries to soak up the back-fed power, and both the off-grid inverter and the micro-inverters must understand the UL1741SA frequency-shifting protocol.

[@ronbridegroom8428]

@@joeyhazlett He needs to make that clear in the video. I have seen videos from this guy and he does not seem to completely understand what he is making a video about. A good example was his previous video about this

[@JoshuaViola-t4v]

Why do the A/C end-plugs on your micro-inverter seems like they have been swapped?

[@rockyhighwayroad7365]

Problem is they don't sell this no where.

[@johnzach2057]

Germany is full of these types of systems capped at ~800watt. They are using the grid as battery.

[@everydaysolar]

Yeah, Europe has a whole “balcony solar” industry. I like the systems like the EcoFlow Power Stream. Pretty cool 👍

[@Scott-sm9nm]

I think a valuable missing safety nugget is that systems like this are supposed to automatically shut off if your grid power (input) goes down so you do not backfeed (output) from your solar panels back into the grid. Right?

[@garyhiland6013]

Also that the ac plug does not induce suicide.

[@whatevah]

At only 500W output (paused and zoomed in on the specs) that'll take a long time to recoup the investment.

[@joeyhazlett]

Especially when paying $500 for a "kit" that includes a $200 inverter and $40 extension cord + monitoring tool.

[@disneymike3311]

What are you feeding with the 120v?

[@richardnwilson]

He is back feeding his entrance panel through a dedicated breaker for that outlet and the power will flow to any other circuit in the house that is using power. The solar power is just displacing some of the power that the house is using from the grid.

[@celestial-fusion-band]

Hey Scott thank you for video, xlnt! NEP discontinued the LV version (Low Voltage). I bought the BDM-300X2 and hooked it up as you did. Got flashing green and then after 2 minutes flashing red? The AC outlet has 3 wires, Black White Green, this would be 110, not 240, correct? So it should work just like your setup? Any ideas why it flashing red and producing no current. BTW, my solar panels (2) are producing 230 watts each and run my battery inverter set perfectly. Thanks for any help.

[@davidkearl2693]

This is what the installation manual says: Step 1 - Install the AC Branch Circuit Junc�on Box 1. Measure service entrance conductors to confirm AC service at the site. Acceptable ranges are shown in the table below: ● BDM-300X2-240A & BDM-300X2-208A (North America) 240 Volt AC Single Phase 208 Volt AC Three Phase L1 to L2 240 Vac L1 toL2 208 Vac

[@Thanosisnotreal]

I’m looking at a 16 year return on investment. 2kWh per day at $0.068 per kWh looks like best case scenario $49.64 per year savings. I’m not sure I can justify solar at this time.

[@sbenavides]

Did you add in the delivery charges you would be avoiding?

[@Thanosisnotreal]

No, because my “delivery charge” is a fixed per day service fee. That would not change unless I went “off grid”.

[@sbenavides]

@@Thanosisnotreal interesting, where are you located? In upstate NY we have the electric charge 12 cents/Kwh and then the deliver of about 6 cents/Kwh that give us delivered rate of 18 cents, with a monthly connection fee of $17.

[@Thanosisnotreal]

@ Western Washington, with all electric house the bill is less than $150 per month winter, $100 in the summer. My last monthly bill: Current Activity Kwh Charge 1,480 @ $0.06819 $100.92 Service Charge .96/day $28.80 State Tax - Excise (3.8734%) $5.02 Other Tax - Privilege (2.14%) $2.78 Current Charges $137.52 Total Amount Due $137.52

[@qctester2360]

Is it legal to connect powergenerating device to grid?

[@everydaysolar]

Most utilities have several requirements which can change a bit depending on who you have but the most common is the device has to be UL 1741 certified.

[@josephkordinak1591]

This model inverter has been discontinued. Do you have the new model BDM-600-LV?

[@whenmullet2674]

I have a Pecron E 2000 LFP, can I just make a double male extension cord and plug into a 20 amp house outlet from one of the 20 amp AC outlets on the generator?

[@joeyhazlett]

You should definitely NOT do that, as the generator is not designed to synchronize with the grid power, and will probably fry itself, and anyone potentially trying to do maintenance on the lines.

[@whenmullet2674]

@@joeyhazlett Thanks, that's what I figured, but thot I'd ask.

[@user-pg5yy5he9m]

I did the same but with the enphase micros. Istead of hooking it to a 120v outlet use the 240 outlet. Working awesome. No combiner, no monitoring hardware. I already got burned multiple times with chinese grid ties. Enphase micros are cheaper.

[@Northeaster-b3w]

would you mind sharing more info on your setup? like what model Emphase, panels, and how are they connected,i.e. to a dedicated 220V plug and its own breaker? does the emphase shut down if the grid goes down, so it doesn't backfeed?

[@user-pg5yy5he9m]

@@Northeaster-b3w Used the IQ7+ and 320watt solar panels wired directly to a 240v outlet inside the house. Need to buy the cable to link the IQ together.

[@Northeaster-b3w]

@@user-pg5yy5he9m Thanks for the reply! Assuming you are on the grid, how do you prevent backfeeding the grid if the power goes out? do the emphase micro-inverters sense the lack of grid power and shut down? also, do you have a net-metering meter or if not, what happens if you were producing more energy than you were using? i think an old uni-directional meter might count that as usage and the power company would likely contact you, so like to hear how you are doing it please!

[@user-pg5yy5he9m]

@@Northeaster-b3w If the micro produce more power than you are currently using it will get back to the grid. When power is out it will automatically cut off production. It is totally safe and approved for use.

[@SKYNETTECH06]

Right when you mentioned the extorsinist HOA you are screwed up

[@rippinstock]

I’d be interested in something like this to charge some batteries that would power some exterior lights.

[@joeyhazlett]

This method would be excessive for charging batteries. There are less expensive solutions that will more efficiently charge the batteries directly from the solar output. A Victron 75/10 or 75/15 charge controller is all you really need to charge up a 12v battery that can be used for some low voltage exterior lights.

[@davidthom1101]

Does the system shutdown if the grid shuts down? Will the plug be live when unplugged or it needs 110 com in my into the inverter?

[@everydaysolar]

The UL1741 certification is associated with the feature of the micro-inverter only providing power if power is detected at the plug/circuit.

[@davidthom1101]

@@everydaysolar the link for the inverter seems to be correct but the website does not list a model number

[@cenval999]

I have a 50amp plug in my garage that I don’t use cause the I don’t charge a EV I got a 50amp/120v adapter in case I ever wanted to use power from that outlet Would it be safe to plug my solar into that plug? I have net metering through my utility in my area that gives credits still thankfully, at least for now.

[@joeyhazlett]

I'd be very careful with that, but in theory it's possible, since that will be 240v at the outlet, and is more than likely the only outlet on that entire branch. 50A is a big breaker to trip though, so the wiring better be up to snuff. If you're not going to use all 50A, which is most likely the case, I'd recommend swapping out the beaker for a lower amperage one to something closer to your expected maximum output.

[@gregben]

Not a good idea to use a pencil as a pointer near live electric circuits because pencil "lead" is graphite (carbon) which is conductive. Better to use a plastic or fiberglass rod.

[@joneberle4952]

Love your videos, and the “testing” platforms. Have contemplated purchasing one of these units for testing myself. It is a bit pricy for the -LV model. Wondering if you could use to 220v non-LV model as a lower price and only use 1 leg of the 220 and get the same result. Could you just put a wire nut on the other leg? No electrician here. Also seen some Amazon “pigtail” products that split the 220 into 2 -120v outlets. Of course these are all experiments. Some commenters fail to realize this. Keep up the good work. I watch almost every video you create. Please experiment more. Looking forward to the multi micro-inverter one. Take care.

[@Electronzap]

good info.

[@MrBasilkey]

People need to see this. This is the right way to do it. Plugged into the wall. I think that means it is bypassing the breaker. Maybe tie in on the mains in the breaker box so the breakers can do its job. Like yours. Example load to the breaker is at its maximum to protect the wire. About to trip. You (Say add 8 more amps to the line) Now you have a hot wire. The breaker only see's what is going through it. Not what the wire is caring. House gone up in smoke. I maybe be wrong but. Please correct me if wrong. Love your video. Shows what a safe setup is.

[@everydaysolar]

With this one it is important to plug into a dedicated circuit to avoid overloading any part of the circuit. If it is a dedicated circuit then the breaker will see the same amount of current being produced by the microinverter.

[@geoffwell]

so whats the ROI?

[@heroesandzeros7802]

I tried 2 different wattages of grid-tie inverters, a 1kW and a 1.2kW. Ever since I tried them, my electric bill went through the roof. The bill was $490xx last month. Neither grid-tie has been used for the last 3 months. Any ideas why? I only got about 4-5A out of the inverters. My refrigerator, freezer, pool pump, garage, shop, and carport are all on off-grid solar. The only things left are the 240V stuff: clothes dryer, stove, central AC, and some 120vac kitchen stuff. There is no reason for the utility bill to be that high and never was before.

[@rynieryarom4277]

Is your electric meter the old type? Old types of electric meter can't differentiate power going in or out. So all power generated is calculated coming from the grid.

[@Scott-sm9nm]

Here is an all in one inverter to 120v plug-n-play one that my son just picked up (maybe review it?!?) Y&H 600W Solar Grid Tie Micro Inverter with AC Data Monitoring Display Screen Waterproof IP65 MPPT DC28-50V PV Input AC80-160V Output for 24V 36V Solar Panel $125.99 Size: 600W-110V-LCD (Amazon info)

[@thespencerowen]

I don’t understand. Are you back feeding the power INTO your garage? Isn’t that super dangerous?

[@joeyhazlett]

It's no more dangerous that the Enphase inverters on the roof of his house, since it works in exactly the same way, and has the same pertinent UL ratings. You can't do this with a regular inverter, but a grid-tied inverter is smart enough to know how to interact with the grid and only function when it's safe to do so.

[@SolarizeYourLife]

I would only do micro inverters if I get 1for1 credit or reverse my meter... otherwise the utilities can pound sand...

[@johnschneider931]

This would be great to plug into a mango power battery system. The conversion loses are outwayed by how far from your garage you can put it. Plugging it in to the outlet is dangerous because during a power outage, it could zap a line worker. And expensive because the power company could sue you for $20k if no one is hurt. If you have a generator switch installed by electrion go ham. Just make sure you are off grid mode.

[@ahaveland]

Pretty sure the microinverters shut themselves down if they don't detect the grid, as with most (if not all) grid-tie systems.

[@steveadal4735]

Lets keep it simple electrons always take the shortest route just plug this into your closest high drain appliance and YOUR POWER WILL GO TO THE APPLIANCE simples❤❤❤❤

[@g-whiz286]

You never said WHY you can't get net metering. Am I to assume that your Enphase system is set up for net zero operation (meaning it will throttle back output if the solar system is producing more than you are using locally).

[@bhbaker220]

Used panels are not eligible for the tax credit.

[@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb]

Man, that sure seems janky as hell. Backfeeding into some random receptacle w/out breakers/fuses?

[@BlenderRookie]

That tiny setup would produce in a month 10% of the electric we consume. When it's comfortable and we don't use the AC, we use about 550 KWh a month. When it's hot and the AC is used, it sometimes will go up to 650-660 KWh. It would be nice to have but it wouldn't pay for itself easily. it cost $0.098 per KW here. Not even a dime. 60 KW of production during the summer per month or about $6. About 10 years the cost might be covered.

[@jmangames5562]

So wait did I hear you right at the end? Your power company will not pay you if you produce more power that goes into there grid that they will charge someone for???? If my power company says that I am not going grid tie. There extremely greedy and thats why I am looking at solar. They earn around 265-300 million per year in profit alone. Thats greed.

[@propellerhead2000]

Be careful with that graphite pencil!

[@tomhamilton9140]

Do not use it in San Antonio area. You will receive notice from CPS that will make the effort worthless.

[@Flash1857]

So I could use this no battery system as a 120v ac power point, and also take 12v out with a dc-dc converter…. mmmmm cool

[@sbenavides]

No it won't generate ac without seeing 120v at the plug. Inverter shuts off if it does not see power coming in.

[@SacredHeart0520]

If your gonna pay 50k for a solar system . To not have a batt bank is just silly. A jyst another facade that companies pitch to sell and be out

[@user-dr2pg8fk2i]

Count the code violations boys

[@NoCostForLiving]

Do not tie your solar to the grid. You want your home off grid completely with its own system. Don't be scammed with solar panels and equipment. You basically want to convert your home to be like an RV. Solar power is free collected everyday and can be stored in batteries. Make sure you have the right appliances and technology when operating on solar power. Traditional Appliances and technology shouldn't be operated on AC with converters from DC. Its a waste and requires replacing components and dependency on parts. Think about what exactly you need for your home and reduce waste. The more demand you put on your system the shorter the lifespan. You keep a well balanced low watt demand on your panels and make sure they are positioned only 8 to 10 hours daily in direct sunlight and they will last over 100 years. You want to be sustainable without worrying about future repairs or replacement. If you convert your home off grid don't use traditional electrical in your home. Breaker boxes and outlets is obsolete. Stop using appliances and technology that requires an AC system. You want to have DC technology. If you have to have AC for specific technology then make sure that is on a separate solar system that isn't tied to your existing. Direct current (DC) is the best and the technology uses significantly less power than alternating current (AC) systems. Another thing is don't be scammed by the EV market. I have a solar powered car without all the bells and whistles system they integrate. My car charges on solar and goes over 1000 miles on a full charge. I never operate less than 70% with my daily life. Capitalism scam.