Everything YOU Need to Know About Building Models

[@Jonas_Fox]

I work on Necrons a lot and hey have delicate parts. When cutting models off sprues, I NEVER cut the joint between model parts and their attachment. Cut into the sprue at non-direct attachments first before cutting off direct attachment points. This will make sure there isn't any stressing cuts that can damage your part. Ideally you want to be cutting off free floating excess from your parts. This is especially true for tiny pipes, hairs, swords, etc. Don't ask me how I know this... Also, you can use milliput and a little iso to make on-demend gap filler with zero fumes and any thickness you want. I'll use full putty to start and then use the iso thinned version to fill tiny gaps or smooth. Another great video. Learned a couple new things. Thanks Eons!

[@stoneEdshot]

Cutting the thicker plastic on the sprues usually causes much more stress to the delicate parts..try using better clippers/dykes to get in close. Also the plastic closest to the part sometimes wants to break away naturally and smoothly

[@commwell8738]

I just got my first models built, Necrons. cut off the foot of a warrior on the first snip. Lesson learned

[@BaconJake14]

I just joined the hobby and got a starter kit for me and my friend. Glad i saw this before we started building

[@EddyOfTheMaelstrom]

I literally just use the frame cutter(not the detail cutter) from Army Painter. I have built 70 necrons(they came free in a box) and I always clip the attachment point.

[@TheAnikasis]

I like how you stress the importance of mise en place, it really helps me keep my sanity in this hobby as well as when I cook. Thanks for the video, will definitely use some of the advices you gave for next time!

[@Shep-1701]

I really appreciate how you included every possible thing that could come up with assembling models, very helpful

[@German_Dubinin]

Jay: tosses sprues in trash bin. Miniature Hobbyist: cries.

[@pinoarias8601]

Disposing of sprues is so dumb, even of you don't melt them to make a burger, keeping them adds A LOT of detail to terrain builds

[@herculeholmes504]

@@pinoarias8601 I must have thrown away about 2 kilos of sprues last week. I still don't see any point in keeping them.

[@pinoarias8601]

@@herculeholmes504 Miniature hobbyist has an amazing series of videos on how to use your sprues in a ton of creative ways.

[@jherazob]

Thought exactly the same, "oof, I know who's not gonna like this" :P

[@PandorasFolly]

@@pinoarias8601 this. My cousin makes his hobby bench tool caddys out of old sprues. Brush holder, anti-tip paint holder, brush water cup brush holder and dont drink warning device

[@corneliusperkins7363]

Tossing sprues in the garbage makes my gretchin have sad faces. Sprues make great additions for terrain-bashing.

[@MyAlessandro1995]

Never toss a sprue, they are gold

[@cyclone8974]

If you are new to painting they're a good way to test spray paint or test a new spray since they are all the same.

[@corneliusperkins7363]

@@cyclone8974good one.

[@mandolore19]

GW really needs to implement an Sprue recycling/buyback program or something, since you can literally heat the sprues or chemically melt them and run them back through an injection mold machine.

[@corneliusperkins7363]

@@mandolore19 that would be cool. I'd prefer it if the program wasn't specifically GW, though, since I buy a *ton* of non-GW minis. But yeah, that would keep a lot of plastic out of the landfills and out of the water supply.

[@richardwitt2334]

I find that painting the minis is really relaxing for me until I lose something.

[@makeshift307]

Never fails. Actually bought 3 different Celestines because the glue would dry and mess the model up when id drop a piece while assembling

[@Slenkamure]

i find it super relaxing until i have to do small details then i really realize how shaky my hands are

[@TheDigitalThreat]

I was snipping a gutripper waist/loin cloth section off the sprue last week and it went flying across the room. A week later and I still cant find the dam thing. I went mad looking high and low and its just poof gone! Ive since made a makeshift one using old bits, but still rather have the one it came with.

[@jherazob]

Saved for sharing! Nice tips! The only addition I'd give is to consider using a moldline remover tool, GW has one, Army Painter and Vallejo now do too cheaper, and scale model people have known them for years. It's much nicer to remove mold lines than the blade, inherently less dangerous, and has much less chance to accidentally damage the figure. As an aside, can you make a second part of this video but for metal minis? I've found that people only used to GW plastic tend to be borderline terrified at the prospect of metal minis, and we need more people like you who can clearly explain things to show them there's not much to fear, the process is similar and there's a lot of figures they could be going with apart from the usual :)

[@thequestbro]

The back of your hobby knife is perfectly good for the job. It's ABS not PS.

[@peterwintersgill9543]

Yes! I can sleep well knowing I'm not the only one that smells my new boxes😂

[@kasterixprime]

For beginners... Super glue over plastic glue pretty much always IMO. Because plastic glue is impossible to remove later, while super glue typically can be. Which can be incredibly helpful to know if you're one of the beginners who might get a bit of anxiety about building larger, more expensive models, and worry about messing things up. Plastic glue basically melts plastic together, so you have to cut models to separate parts. While super glue can be weakened using super glue remover (some nail polish removers with acetone in them can do it also) and let you separate parts and remove the glue without needing to cut them apart should you ever really need or want to. [edit] As per GWNDad's comment below, follow their suggestion about the freezer instead for plastic minis to weaken super glue. I'd forgotten that was probably the simplest, cleanest method for it.

[@uriance88]

Acetone melts plastic - so not the best choice for dealing with super glue on a plastic mini. The bond created by the superglue doesn't do well in extreme cold, so a stint in a freezer will also make separating parts easier

[@recreant359]

Also if you mess up the placement while setting the glue you end up melting the connections to hell and use looks stupid. Plastic glue sounds nice but it has the potential to ruin your model.

[@georgeburchett1702]

these videos have helped me got warhammer 40k up and running, thanks for your help!

[@jimmygallagher9843]

This is a really important part of the modelling process that most channels skip. Wish I had of watched it before I clipped my redemptor dreadnought off the sprue flush instead of leaving a slight amount to later scrap off.

[@earthdust00]

As a cook. A wound from a sharp knife heals better because it's a clean cut. A duller blade doesn't cut as clean and actually causes more of a tear kind of damage making the healing process a bit more difficult.

[@htpkey]

This is a great video to share with friends who are just getting into the hobby! It is informative and comprehensive. Will you make a similar comprehensive video about painting miniatures (including using a wet palette, type of brushes, airbrushing, sprays, color selection, color theory, using reference pictures, types of paint, metallics, nmm, washes, inks, highlights, pigments, varnishes, etc.)? There are a lot of videos on YT about these individual topics, but not enough of them talk about the whole painting process and all the tools available for painting your miniatures.

[@johnroberts981]

Wow, that's about the best video on the subject! You cover so much, many, many tips on building, and preparing the minis for a faultless paint job. I won't mention the sprues in the rubbish bin, that's been covered very well already 😠 Seriously, the best video on the subject I've seen, well done.

[@MisterNorthernCanuck]

The paper clip approach and keeping the angle for the weapons is so smart.

[@richar5d644]

Great video for any newcomers to this hobby!

[@Xanderk1203]

@13:54 Spruces make great rubble if you run them through an old meat grinder, gives concrete bits and twisted steel beams.

[@TheTermigrot]

For filling seams you can use some binder clips and press the two halves together, this will squeeze out some dissolved plastic and eliminate the gap. All that's left is some filing which can be done with the knife or a file. Binder clips are wonderous, especially the largest and are a never ending source of help. No fumes either

[@crassbandicoot5082]

I actually use old extra thin cement with more sprue in it for filling gaps. When I get to 1/5th full, ill just chuck a bunch in the bottle and it makes a nicely spreadable grey goop.

[@kirkules330]

I'm trying to put flayed ones together and this is my first crack at gluing miniatures together and it's proving to be very challenging.

[@baitbait65]

I just got a hobby drill and spent an afternoon drilling gun barrels. Super fun.

[@pinoarias8601]

I just use my xacto blade, it does the job fantastically and saves me from buying a drill.

[@rapscallion3506]

Ya got skills, Kid. Thanks for teaching.

[@jbriggsiv]

I find Krylon Fusion to be a good primer as well. It's designed for plastic and can be bought cheap at Walmart, Ace Hardware, etc. in a variety of colors and finishes.

[@jackchesney1]

Thanks! This video was essential for me in figuring out how to get started. Just recently got Star Wars Shatterpoint and have had no issues with this advice.

[@MiniatureMasterClass]

Was watching with CC accidentally turned on. Evidently this channel is called "Younza Battle" @0:01.

[@UnalloyedMalenia]

One of my model tricks is making rose bushes on bases. Take Verdia Veldt/Summer undergrowth bushes, put Valhallan Blizzard on them and then paint the white paste-like stuff with varying colors of red (I use Screamer Pink and Blood for the Blood god)

[@bentaylor809]

Building and customising is my favorite part. They're the thing I wish I could do as commission

[@rorixthebladewingify]

Just want to say you're AMAZING! Thank you for the materials list and guide, just got into the hobby and you certainly helped A TON!

[@jinx8624]

0:55 that joke had me cracking up 🥁😂

[@albertorodrigomolinasortiz471]

Looking at those orks without the heads they really reminded me of the Allicons from Transformers the Movie.

[@monkeymintaka]

I wish I had watched this last night! I started building my own set of blood warriors, accidentally clipped off corners from 3 of the body parts, did not clean them very well before gluing, and didn't even think about poses. So now they are all just standing straight and looking forward, with lots of seams and holes 😂 Oh well, this is my practice set!

[@monkeymintaka]

@Petercross 😂😂

[@rex290]

I'm putting together a box of SoS at the moment. This video is very helpful!

[@FIRSTNAMELASTNAME-zt4kf]

Got my first pair of sprue nips a month or so ago and I absolutely love them

[@smelvinhamilton9792]

Would love to see how u paint those orks up!! x

[@L3GHO5T]

I keep my dull blades for removing mould lines when I use new ones I’m really really good at gouging the models haha

[@hobbybro3902]

I used pill bottles as paint handles. My process is sub-assembly I keep the bits associated with figure in pill bottle this away I don’t lose stuff.

[@Neumonics429]

Super glue is better for starters because you can always break them apart and repaint/fix the bonds. If you use plastic cement it will be stronger, but it will be less forgiving when you gain some skill and want to redo the early models.

[@theholocene]

toenail clippers work surprisingly well at tiding up moddels

[@cu_setantanobu804]

Good thing I saw this video before I cracked open my first Warhammer 40k set of the sisters of battle

[@xinderx]

Imo I like slight sprue cut damage because it adds to the roughed up look of soldiers

[@Stormeris]

"tossed the sprue to the garbage"? Why? Cut them up for terrain!

[@silverbloodborne9495]

Or use them to make custom stands for your figuers I turn them in to gems and bricks floors

[@Stormeris]

@@silverbloodborne9495 A bit of sprue and some shaving with a knife makes for an awesome gem/crystal/warpstone!

[@Dwarficus]

What drill size do people use for drilling barrels?

[@uriance88]

1mm is about right for barrels on marines and orcs, but a little big for guard las-rifles. Bonus is that standard uncoated paper clips are also 1mm, allowing for one drill bit to handle both jobs

[@theclarkmaster3642]

Also, build all your models in a set back to back. Will prevent burnout.

[@kevinishki]

What #11 blades do you recommend? I am of the mindset get cheap ones and replace when needed. Also I recommend plastruct plastic weld.

[@uriance88]

Just pick one from Amazon - they are so cheap that the fact they may not hold an edge as long as a 'name brand' blade (when they probably come from the same factory) that cost is not really a factor.

[@Silentrunning73]

Why do you use Plastic cement on the gap before applying the Tamiya putty ?

[@EonsOfBattle]

the Tamiya putty can be thinned with plastic glue so the layer of cement helps the putty flow into the crack.

[@MisterReltec]

What is your opinion on making Sprue-goo? If anyone doesn't know, it's mixing Sprue pieces and placing them inside your bottle of glue.

[@症不眠]

Thank you so so much for these videos. Now I need one for painting:)

[@MxlexywithaY]

Apparently you can hand in empty sprues for recycling at some gamesworkshop stores (UK, and some in the US) instead of the garbage

[@bretts2356]

You should put a disclaimer on this vid "No Sprues were harmed in the making of this film". People are sensitive about Sprue treatment!

[@eriktruchinskas3747]

Pile of shame sums up all my miniatures

[@Alkeseltze]

Love it! I have a similar method when it comes to putting together new models (or kitbashing from the sprue pile) really excited my death guard terrain was shown on your video! Question, (and I realize this is may be tricky to answer) how thin do you like that black primer to be when shooting through the air brush? As thin as any acryllic paints should be or thinner? Keep up the great work!

[@EonsOfBattle]

I use stynylrez black primer and it is all set and ready to airbrush but I find primer should be a little thick, maybe a bit thicker than milk.

[@evelynlamoy8483]

I don't mind seams going down the inside or even outside of pants sometimes. Pants have seams? So if paint catches on it, it just looks like an authentic inseam

[@ryansargent661]

How much sprue is needed to mix in to make the THICC version? How small do the chunks of sprue need to be? Asking before trying so I do it right the first time and avoid any headaches of doing it wrong. Thanks for the video as always it was helpful, even when I think I know everything there is still stuff to learn.

[@EonsOfBattle]

the smaller the pieces the faster they will dissolve, small enough to easily fit through the opening of the bottle. I would say about a pea-sized amount then let it dissolve then see if it's a nice thick on the applicator brush.

[@f14m3z]

Can you do one of these for painting? I feel like I've been left hanging.

[@MunitionsDudTester]

When you tossed the sprue in the garbage instead of recycling or saving it to make terrain with it later I cried a little. :'(

[@timmyianni2309]

Swear to god, i spend as much time removing mold lines as i do painting. And i paint every model like it's my general. That is the only reason i ever miss pewter minis. It was so much easier to just hit it with the dremel and be done.

[@hetzerfeind1885]

What is the advantage of putting plastic into extra thin instead of just using the normal Tamiya glue?

[@EonsOfBattle]

the thin Tamiya bonds only what touches and with some plastic kits the joints don't make a PERFECT bond. o the thick glue fixes this by squishing into a seam when you press the two halves together.

[@hetzerfeind1885]

Yeah I know that part, but why are you not mixing it with normal Tamiya Cement instead of thin cement? That one is already more viscous and also cheaper than the extra thin cement.

[@christianvoorhees69]

Thanks!

[@Kilian2]

Maybe a silly question but how do you decide when to paint the mini with it’s base (finished design etc) and when to paint the mini without the base?

[@EonsOfBattle]

I usually paint the base separately if it is going to be a lot of painting work, like detailed scenery or marble effect, if it's just some simple sand to basecoat and drybrush I just glue the model first.

[@Kiko_D_Awesome]

I wish I watched this video eariler awesome video!

[@pixireaper1851]

Blu tac on the joints while painting sub assembly’s why have I never gone this... goodbye bad connections.

[@saintguardian3639]

Wonder if you could drill some room for Neodymium magnets for the arms. That way you aren't set on one thing.

[@movntn]

Super helpful! Thank you 🙏

[@clydemarshall8095]

I actually kind of like the building more than the painting. I enjoy the painting yes, but as someone who grew up on and still loves Legos, I think there's an inner part of me that just loves putting things together.

[@thejosephchrist]

About how much spru do you add to the glue in order to make the Thick glue?

[@manneflood3102]

How much sprue do you put to make your thicc plastic cement? Great video!

[@anonsphone4323]

Where did you get that drill, my larger drill bits won't fit in the chuck. Your drill looks like has a separate chucks permanently fixed to the drill bit which is awesome

[@EonsOfBattle]

It's a hand drill, it can only fit small drill bits (smaller than 1/4"). I bought mine on amazon, it is this: www.amazon.com/Professional-0-8-3-0mm-Precision-Jewelry-Assembling/dp/B07TRGW3W7/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=hand+drill&qid=1614451230&sr=8-3

[@liamkefford2574]

No washing before priming?

[@iwantosavemoney]

This is so cool and I don’t even play yet

[@ock538]

Oh no. I see this for first time and hooked. Where to begin. Sht

[@charleshowie2074]

13:55 NOOoooopOOOoOOOoOoOoOOOoooooo!

[@Teeleer]

I find poster tack too sticky, it stuck to the black base when I was painting. is there an alternative?

[@spookwagen-thegreat1350]

Is it heresy to paint detail while the parts are still on the sprue? I do that personally and its SOOO much better than building then painting. Like il cut off the previously bonded parts so I can have an easier time building

[@SethLooks]

First thing I do before cutting any parts free is wash everything. Got to get them release oils off.

[@cosmicspud7502]

I was going to do a fun fact so here is some advice, Just because it's made by the same brand doesn't mean it will do a better job, for example a Citadel cuting knife isn't better than a scalpel on Amazon, same thing with paint brands citadel paints ain't much better than others only in the pigment colors available and variety. PS. I type how i talk

[@WrathOfPhropet]

I think I'll get myself some poster tack, double sided tape is just not strong enough

[@LadungsBlitz]

You earned my sub at "Plastic Crack". just to relatable.

[@cjhification]

Flush trim cutters is another name for electronics snips, which is the generic term for them I'm aware of.

[@28mmRPG]

Nice suggestions. I use a plastic case-box that contains 16 separate mini-boxes (Photo-boxes) meant to store photos... they are great to store bits in and its very nice to store and carry your parts.

[@jacawandersmok9043]

4:40 now I will never un see it!

[@johnroy2567]

I'm wondering if a necron royal warden can be converted to hold either of the spare weapons from the necron immortals sprue from the 40k imperium magazine collection

[@complex9k]

What Grit Emery board do you use??

[@Zetsthamys]

Tamia EXTRA THICC !!

[@TheOracleBeats]

Why do the arms on the sororitas models have to be so small and weird to get glue on.

[@Verza488]

When building warhammer is it the same as building Gundam?, I've only built Gundam alot of high grades and a few Mgs

[@adamdean5551]

Hello Jay I can't stand the citadel pot do you recommend transferring my paints to an eye dropper bottle

[@HO-bndk]

This is obviously rushed through to fit all yhe information in, but, in reality, it's important not to rush. In particular, let solvent glue joints and fillers thoroughly cure and dry (ideally overnight) before proceeding.

[@micheal4526]

Remember: it’s ok to be a crime goblin and remove bits or even deconstruct a model in the middle of painting, making decisions is hard and your bits box can’t talk smack

[@Post232hj]

Can’t I use? Just sticky patty instead of glue

[@martinwells9221]

Amazing I’m at the end with my vermin lord thanks guys,!

[@MSDarkspyro]

Is it the same for gundam?

[@TKs3DPrints]

i love to complain about GW prices for plastic. but love to paint and build and game when i get the chance but most of all complaining about GW prices for 50p worth of plastic.

[@recreant359]

I mean if you were to print a box worth of plastic in a resin printer you’d spend about the same on the resin lol

[@TKs3DPrints]

@@recreant359 nah i get most my resin for free :) and tbh rather my minies in metal. old school give me the Eavy Metal anyday. :)

[@recreant359]

@@TKs3DPrints Well, there are printers that do metal hehe, but I imagine they cost a fortune. I never had any metal models, but I always felt like pewter was a cheap metal and easy to break so I never bothered when I was younger. Also to be fair, I have a resin printer and a prusa printer and I still buy GW stuff because their injection molding tech and process is the pinnacle of plastic IMO.

[@TKs3DPrints]

@@recreant359 always found metal to be about the same as plastic ie for weapons and other fine detailed parts will always break on metal or plastic. most metal just bends and if your are careful you can straighten it but i used to cringe when i used to paint models for a living and my mates would buy models of me or commision me to paint some. then to watch them throw it into a big tin of other miniatures watching them get chipped and bashed. models for me was always a collect and paint thing and handle with care etc. most of my mates etc would look after their character model. but everything else monster wise etc used to get thrown in during games etc. cries. but hay i got paid. what they do with the models is up to them. but so sad. yea metal printing is a new very expensive thing. though i do like the coloured plastic models you can buy from heroforge. users can colour them etc and get them printed. they look damn good. but myself would rather just buy and paint. but if you was not into painting or know you cant paint its something i might have looked into for a cool looking custom model. :)

[@gullapull9324]

I thought spruce goo was only useful for filling gaps

[@IratusSerpentus]

How much sprue do you put in the glue to make the thick glue?

[@whyidontwant2723]

Just use the sprue glue as the gap filler.

[@danpsyker6122]

QUESTION: Does anyone know a good hand drill to get? I can see Army painter do one, but don't want to be ripped off if I could get a better one with more bits for the same price

[@TashiMortier]

I want to fill gaps better it's the thing I have most trouble with. The Tamiya stuff looks amazing but almost impossible to get here in Germany, maybe the other stuff will be easier to get. I tried milliput and I thought the gap was filled but after applying primer it was still so visible

[@uriance88]

Any thin modelling glue will work like Tamiya - the big advantage is the brush is already in the bottle. So if Revell was easier to find, you could put some into a glass/metal dish and use a cheap brush to apply it. Tamiya is pretty much the standard for scale modelers, so check your local model shop as opposed to game store.

[@brightdarkness420]

you can sharpen your knives with sandpaper

[@Blooddeath93]

Painting? please... I love adding details to my models

[@jonnyf6664]

toe nail clippers wrok