Experimental Pottery Firing: Reduced Iron Paint

[@AncientAmericas]

Great job! Even if it didn't come out completely black, it still looks gorgeous!

[@AncientPottery]

Thanks

[@Anon-wo2xg]

@@AncientPottery Have you ever tried to use kintsugi on pieces that broke during firing?

[@angeladazlich7145]

A beautiful olla and mug no matter how you view it. i have a really large galvanized tub and we're heading to Tucson for Christmas if you want me to drop it off at your place. You can use it til we meet up again.

[@AncientPottery]

Thanks but I already have one.

[@Elizabeth-bm3yw]

Cute mug!! And I think your hypothesis about leaving things overnight sounds very reasonable, as the native potters wouldn’t have been under the same time constraints as yourself. As for speeding things up for yourself, perhaps sand that’s been sifted/cleaned in some way, so that keeping it off of the pottery wasn’t as critical? Alternatively, along the lines of your bucket idea, maybe that could have been executed with big ceramic vessels that were built only for that purpose? I’m not sure if the archeological record would support that, but these beautiful designs very well may justify that extra labor

[@Elizabeth-bm3yw]

To clarify on the sand comment: as I understand it the issue is organic matter in the soil you’re smothering it in, and if there was a way to remove that material (cooking sand to burn it off??) then it wouldn’t cover the pots in soot

[@terryfinley7760]

I agree about a slightly larger vessel to cover the pot being fired. Then cover with dirt and leave until dawn.

[@AncientPottery]

Yes, thanks I have been considering clean sand. More experiments to come.

[@AncientPottery]

A sagar, a good idea but it is certainly not what the ancient potters were doing.

[@nom_b]

Its fun coming on your adventures. Thanks for taking us with you ;-) . That is a really amazing paint job and looks wonderful no matter what colour it turned out 😀

[@AncientPottery]

Thanks Nom, thanks for coming along with me.

[@MrDoomperson]

A few reenactors who do pottery (500BC-1100AD, Denmark), told me that they often do pit fires, and leave the ceramics there a full week to proper cool, in order to avoid the "re-reddening" of the red clays.

[@AncientPottery]

Wow, I can't imagine needing that long. With the big trench kilns they fire up in the 4 corners region they leave it overnight and the pots are generally cool enough to handle the next day.

[@AtomicShrimp]

Would it help if you added some combustible material such as grass or leaves, immediately before smothering - to use up local oxygen while you're covering it?

[@AncientPottery]

The trouble with that is that those combustibles would produce carbon and make the pot dark. Some of those hot coals might be good though because they are consuming oxygen without producing smoke.

[@AtomicShrimp]

@@AncientPottery Yeah, maybe don't clear the embers - just smother the whole lot while they are still there. Also do you reckon the porosity of soil might be letting in oxygen? - although I can't think of something that would be historically and locally appropriate - here, I'd try covering with turf then soil maybe, but turf isn't really a thing where you're working. I suppose covering with a hide might exclude more oxygen, but I doubt the ancient potters would have wasted a hide...

[@AncientPottery]

@@AtomicShrimp I have had the same thoughts. Our soil is rather dry which I imagine means more porosity, if the soil were damp it would probably make a better seal. And yes, maybe a hide over the top of the earth could be used to complete the seal and perhaps with the earth as a buffer it wouldn't get too hot.

[@AtomicShrimp]

@@AncientPottery yeah maybe earth, hide, then more earth to weigh it down, and the hide might not get scorched that way

[@brendaoluwalana186]

@Atomic Shrimp I am so tickled that you participate in this channel. I'm a fan of your channel and love the content on both of your channels

[@alvarolopez5412]

Great job. I don't do painted ceramic but black one (I'm from shouteast Spain so I take ideas from the Argar culture which was from Bronze Age and was reduce black ceramic), and I think the problem is just time. I fire it just like you did, but since I do it in my garden, I just let it rest for the whole night and even for 2 days sometimes, so I'm sure it's completely cold therefore it doesn´t turn red again (since I use red clay)

[@AncientPottery]

Thank you very much for the info from Spain. I will try again and wait longer.

[@ooee8088]

The mug looks awesome!

[@AncientPottery]

Thanks

[@rosalindbarbier7670]

Watching from my shed, struggling with form while you struggle colour!! Great to see your work. I agree with others that the colours you are getting are beautiful even not what you are aiming for!

[@AncientPottery]

Thanks so much! 😊

[@jajwarehouse1]

How about making a large clay candle snuffer style bell? Use a horizontal wooden pole to hang it above the fire so that it can be warming up slowly. Once the firing is complete, lower the bell down to fully encompass the pit. The fire will consume the oxygen within the bell and snuff out. Leave to cool completely overnight if possible.

[@AncientPottery]

Essentially a sagar on a stick. Nice idea.

[@jajwarehouse1]

@@AncientPottery Something like that, only large enough to surround the pit. A larger internal volume would keep the free oxygen percentage low for longer as it seeps in from the ground. It also eliminates the need to pile on dirt that can contaminate the colors.

[@AaronHendu]

Finding your channel inspired me to go looking for the clay bluff river banks I remember from my childhood, and I found some real beautiful red clay and deep green slate mixed bluffs that are local. It's a tough spot to get to (bluffs are about 60 feet down and nearly vertical like a cliff, rapids and fast water, no shoreline), but the clay is basically ready to use (just like the stuff I remember from my childhood) if you're adventurous enough to get down there. I tested some out while camping, and it seemed to work well. I didn't have time to fire it, but I let it air dry overnight and it was solid in the morning enough to move it around without any deformation. I didn't plan to find the clay that day, and had all my camping gear strapped to my back, or I would have brought a bunch home. I am going back in a day or so for the purpose of collecting as many pounds as I can carry on the 14km bike/hike. It's worth it though...it's one of the most beautiful spots I've found during my time on earth. About a km down from a 60 waterfall. Huge salmon and trout running everywhere in the little river. I'd love to be able to collect the clay, camp, and fire the clay right there on the bank of the river. That would be super cool. I haven't done a ton of clay work, but I did do a bit in high school and got pretty decent at it. Mostly art projects though, not many pots or that kind of thing, which is a whole different art in itself. Anyway...rambling. Hope it's not bothersome! Thanks for all the info you share! I wish KZbin would allow photos in the comments.

[@AncientPottery]

Yes, photo comments would be cool except that some people would abuse it. There is always Facebook and Instagram. Sound like a cool spot, what part of the world are you in?

[@AaronHendu]

@@AncientPottery Ontario, Canada. On Georgian Bay. There is a large escarpment that runs through the area. It's a pretty interesting spot.

[@curiouscat3384]

Great videos! I've not been into making pottery but am very much a DIYer, passionate about preserving the simpler life, who loves seeing how things work. You stumbled into my feed and I'm enjoying very much your narrative and I admire your building community to share info and ideas. BTW that's a gorgeous pot you're firing there !!!!

[@AncientPottery]

Thank you, glad to have you here whether or not you are a potter.

[@tuttib7500]

Amazing and beautiful! I know you were going for black but the red is gorgeous!

[@AncientPottery]

Thanks, I am not unhappy

[@garyharvey7001]

I have enjoyed watching your videos on KZbin and realize you are a master potter. I have never made a single coiled pottery so I am investigating ancient pottery. I have always turned my pots. I have worked with cone 5 to 6 stoneware. When I open a kiln when the pots are hot several things can happen. The pot cracks or shatter from temperature shock or the glaze can craze or tiny cracks form in the glaze or nothing can happen. Normally when I fired I waited til the next morning before I opened the kiln. Just a thought but it might give the iron oxide time to set and remain black rather than turning back to red. I thank you for you videos because it has been a learning experience.

[@AncientPottery]

Thanks, exactly what I said in the video, the pots should remain smothered overnight to cool completely.

[@Dovid2000]

Enjoyed this, as usual.

[@AncientPottery]

Thanks

[@airstreamwanderings3683]

I'll try and get out a video. I fired the same pot twice, inverting a large metal pot over the top to cut off the oxygen. Neither firing came close to working. I'm not sure this failure taught me much but the red paint looks nice.

[@AncientPottery]

It might be hard to do in your metal fire pit thing. Just a thought

[@bigbranch1]

Beautiful pot......

[@AncientPottery]

Thanks Allen

[@tolik5929]

Always amazed me to look at what primitive peoples did , with the little they had to work with .

[@AncientPottery]

Definitely, I struggle to get it right even with all the tools and resources at my disposal.

[@jazzmusician46]

Fantastic effort Andy! You are a great researcher and teacher! ❤

[@AncientPottery]

Many thanks!

[@pokagal7335]

You are awesome, and a great teacher. Thank you.

[@AncientPottery]

You're very welcome!

[@IvyRosethebus]

I love the experiments Thanks

[@AncientPottery]

You're welcome, I'm glad you enjoyed it.

[@nophdcoyote3635]

I make charcoal the way ancients did. Getting ready to try pottery. My charcoal experience tells me to cover the pottery with charcoal and dirt from the beginning leaving a chimney and a few air inlets at the bottom. For cover and smother I would leave a piece of glowing charcoal under the bowl in an attempt to eat up any Oxygen. Or even some of those tea light candles

[@jazzwhiskey582]

Your pottery is so beautiful! The welder in me thinks that, on the bowl you pulled out to smother, the volume of air inside when you inverted it contains enough O2 to re-oxidize the amount of iron contained in the thin layer of paint. You could try pulling the bowl and then filling it with very hot dirt near the fire? just a thought?

[@AncientPottery]

Thanks for that idea. I was thinking maybe set the bowl over a few of the hot coals which should consume any oxygen there.

[@jazzwhiskey582]

@@AncientPottery Hey that's a genius idea, I would be interested to see you try that too!

[@feroxartem]

Great work Andy, looks beautiful. Thank you for sharing ✌🏼

[@AncientPottery]

Thanks 👍

[@Jentonos]

Keep up the research! So Grateful you are sharing with the world! ❤

[@AncientPottery]

Thank you! Will do!

[@coldstone01]

A question I think is were there any sheilds made just for that reason? I meant in the archologeal records, are there any of the people who made those reduced iron paint pottery having sheilds made just for that matter. I am sure they did create some ware that was ones that failed but directly for just usage of their work they perhaps created huge covers that way after the time when the fire burns down they put a tub of already fired pot and then smother it with sand/dirt that was exacvated from the firing pit. or perhaps their firing was a lined kiln and they further just sheilded the intakes with a plate of unadorned fired pottery to seal and cool down the heated painted work.

[@thallone]

I love the effort. Might it make testing easier to work on smaller pieces such as a saucer or soup bowl sized object to prove the concepts before firing something large that will require immensely more fuel?

[@AncientPottery]

Fuel is not an issue and I have done smaller pieces.

[@johnburke8337]

So happy to see the pot you meant for the conference get fired! Even though you didn't get that deep black you wanted, I still think you should be super proud because the craftsmanship and beauty of the design you painted on that olla (it looks like one, right?), is just breathtaking! It really is a testament not only to your dedication for historical reproduction accuracy but also your sheer ability as an artist, so I hope you don't sell yourself short on that because the experiment oxidized some after you removed it from the pit. I'd celebrate making something that beautiful! I also wanted to say, your dedication to historical accuracy shows in spades here, too. If I was in the experimental phase of trying to do something like this, I'd probably start with the galvanized bucket or a saggar of some sort (granted, I don't fully understand the challenges firing with those might cause, like measuring temperature) then try to move to cover sherds like you did here which seem more risky to reduce with. So starting with something that's probably closer to historically accurate is laudable. I wish I had better ideas for how to reduce the oxidative effects, but this one passes my mind. While the ancient potters may not have understood the chemistry of it, is there a possibility that they could have smothered with a specific kind of soil, especially calcareous ones like caliche (which you mentioned in a video a while ago, so you have at least some near you)? While it isn't good to have that in your clay, smothering with that in particular, as opposed to the probably more silica heavy soil like you did here, especially when the fire is pretty hot, could net you some carbon dioxide in the pit as you smother possibly. Granted, I think it might require the fire to be hotter than we've seen you go before.

[@AncientPottery]

I am proud of it, I don't want to give the impression that I am not. Thanks for that. I agree that it is easier to figure it out with modern tools then go back to using the primitive, I have applied this principle in other areas of replication. Using calcium carbonate to produce carbon dioxide is a novel idea, I'll give it some thought.

[@johnburke8337]

@@AncientPottery also, it was cool to see you refire a bowl. You’ve mentioned doing that to pieces and shards before, so it was fun seeing that actually happen!! Again, thanks for your great content!

[@petrapetrakoliou8979]

Don't be afraid of getting the white dirty, that can be washed away, it can't burn into the clay. So you might want to cover the fire up with dirt earlier, when it is at its maximum heat, don't give any chance of oxygen getting into there. You can do it outdoors, it takes me usually between 4 to 5 hours to do my firings and I am always trying to reduce my pots with mixed results - lately I put some fire wood in between the pots too and they really got black, because I suppose the carbon in that wood will reduce all the oxygen there is left in the pot's iron oxyde. But I also covered it up quite fast and waited one hour to dig the pots out (more than an hour is better, but we were all freezing and made a separate small fire out of the original fire just to heat us and have a little light in this nordic darkness).

[@AncientPottery]

You can actually burn carbon into the clay where it will not wash off

[@miketownsend6108]

when we heat treat tool steel we wrap it in thin stainless steel to keep air out

[@AncientPottery]

Good to know!

[@joshuawarner1437]

Great video as always!!

[@AncientPottery]

Thanks

[@wizziewiz1]

What would happen if you made a sand mound , almost like a mould, and then turn the bowl over on that, then there would be only just a little air trapped underneath? Might do the trick of having no air. I love your olla and mug, they are beautiful!

[@AncientPottery]

Maybe, although I think some coals would be better as they would eat up any available oxygen.

[@sharonbryant5811]

Even though the color wasn’t what you were aiming for the vessel was amazing in its form and it didn’t break in the fire.

[@AncientPottery]

yes, thanks, I am relatively happy with it and also anxious to make another like it so I can try again.

[@rocifier]

What about pulling and smothering the painted side with sand until it's basically ambient temperature

[@AncientPottery]

Could work. My concern would be if the same is clean enough, any small pice of stick or root could cause a black blemish on the hot pot.

[@dariosinapellido7812]

Hey Andy, having troubles for reaching good fire temperatures, most of the time it doesn't seem to be enough for melting aluminum (around 600° C) I use ash wood and peach wood, any suggestions for reaching optimum heat?

[@AncientPottery]

Teepee style fire on the surface of the ground. If you don't get hot enough, keep refueling until you reach your target temp. One of these will help you to know where you are amzn.to/3NgBLek

[@mgbrv8]

Have you made a video on how to bake pottery in a fireplace??

[@AncientPottery]

No I haven't although it has crossed my mind

[@mgbrv8]

It would be a neat idea for people in apartments and houses that have fireplaces.

[@mgbrv8]

If you do I hope it goes viral 👍🏻🙂👍🏻

[@sharonbryant5811]

I’m not experienced at all in these methods but I subscribe to your channel as I find it very interesting. My thought was; could they have put the fire in a dug out hole or an earth kiln and then covered the hole or opening to smother the fire and let it burn out as it used up the oxygen in the space? Since it may not be as much about the temperature change as it is about depriving the pots from oxygen.

[@AncientPottery]

I'm sure there are many possible ways of achieving the desired results. Also I know the way you describe would work because the pottery replicators Paul and Laurel Thornburg did just that to create Mimbres replicas. I tend to avoid that method myself because there is no archaeological evidence that the ancient potters were making simple kilns in this manner.

[@sharonbryant5811]

I was watching the stream with the archeologists,Mary this morning as well. Could her analysis of the reduced iron paint be helpful to see if it had any additives to help it remain black? Just a thought. As I said I have no education on this subject just my understanding of how fire needs oxygen to burn and reduction happens when the oxygen has been used up. One of your listens responded with adding grass which as an organic matter would burn using up the oxygen. I guess the object would be how to keep the fire going enough under the remaining structure to cover with dirt in such a way as to keep some of the fire going to use up the remaining oxygen. Hope I said that where it makes sense

[@AncientPottery]

@@sharonbryant5811 Mimbres pottery has been pretty well studied, Anno O Shepard way back in the 1950s analyzed the paint and said that it was mostly iron with a little silica amzn.to/3DCdOuO

[@omid-nasi]

Can you use a blow torch to burn the carbon off? If maybe you preheat the pot so it doesn’t crack?

[@susanrapp3109]

The pots are beautiful. Would adapting some Raku firing techniques get you to a more exact result you are looking for?

[@AncientPottery]

Doubtful, but who knows

[@rossk7927]

Andy, IIRC you have said previously that it doesn't turn red until the paint gets below some temperature. So it would be interesting to watch the color transition from black to red, with frequent temperature measurements, in open air as temperature falls. This would give you data to work with for future experiments - such as how much time you have to get a pot out of the fire and into a reduced atmosphere and what that critical temperature is in real world conditions.

[@AncientPottery]

I think I was wrong. This fire in particular has given me evidence that it is not the temperature keeping the irons from oxidizing but the coals consuming the oxygen. Move the pots away from the coals and they begin to oxidize as you can see in this video.

[@jjkairos7317]

I know nothing about pottery, but I know you can force a black patina on a carbon steel blade using vinegar, and vinegar is definitely a common result of fermentation and preservation processes.

[@nolansykinsley3734]

Fresh hot coals, you can use them as a scrubber to remove oxygen when you smother. I have seen more modern pottery makers use paper strips when transfering a hot piece from the kiln to a cooling container to scrub oxygen and keep the glaze from over oxidizing. A more primitive method could be just some dry grass or hot coals placed under the piece or inside the sherds and then quickly covered, the carbon will try and burn and scrub all the oxygen from inside the piece, and maybe even slow down cooling if needed. Just an inch wide piece of a hot fresh coal placed under the bowl you tried the pull and smother would probably work. Could probably even place a couple small sherds over it to prevent it from marring the inside of the bowl with heat/soot

[@AncientPottery]

Awesome thanks for the tip. I’m about to try this again in a couple days so good timeline too.

[@arianematos1995]

Hello, do you think Its possible to fire with out the shields? I don’t have that

[@GreatNorthWeb]

Is it possible that the old pots are blacker simply because they are older? Does UV affect that color over time? What happens if you put that pot in the blazing sun for a few months? Would it get darker? Perhaps these are questions that only time can answer.

[@AncientPottery]

Interesting idea. It is my understanding that this is black because it is reduced iron. If that is so then generally iron tends to become more oxidized over time, not more reduced. But like you said, only time will tell.

[@coopart1]

I think there is more than one way to skin your knees . I think you might be right, maybe smother and try leaving till totally cooled. And a longer firing , not so much hotter as too longer. Pot looks great though!!

[@AncientPottery]

For sure, until somebody finds some archaeological evidence we are just guessing. Thanks

[@ooee8088]

👍

[@AncientPottery]

By the way, I have skinned cats several different ways but only skinned my knees in one way.

[@coopart1]

@@AncientPottery lol and I was trying to be politically correct ! Lol

[@ooee8088]

😏😉

[@youngwillie9502]

I know nothing except what I learned from you and Tony but I can't help but think the long smothering has something to do with it. Maybe the pot needs that long sleep in the fire.

[@AncientPottery]

Definitely will be a longer smother next time, thanks.

[@hgbguy]

I guess a special kiln of some sort to keep oxygen out and a drop into oil or something to keep it from oxidizing. Thinking some elevated kiln and a pool of oil below some sort of pull out platform where the fire is kept from dropping into the oil. Main idea is to get it black as can be then immediately dunk it in a preservative glazing or oil just something to keep it from oxidizing. Probably over engineered but i think the main point stands.

[@AncientPottery]

Good idea, too complex for me or the ancient potters of the Southwest but still a valid idea for how to do it.

[@alyxlessthan3]

My two cents on smoothing is this... If you have lots of wood burning still when you fill in your pit with sand or soil is that. Any oxygen that is in the sand will be consumed by the fire as it tried to burn although it's now covered. As it pulls that stray oxygen out of the soil it will also off gas other gases like carbon monoxide for example. Carbon monoxide being heavier then oxygen should fill the voids that allow oxygen to seep back into the pit. If my hypothesis is correct then a bit deeper of a pit and having lots of coals and actively burning wood in the pit when smothered would be key. Enough combustibles that the entire pot is covered by them still when smothered. I think it's why the big trench kilns work so well. I know they don't find stone lined trench kilns in your area Andy, but if they where using a hole in the ground there might not be anything left besides some discoloured holes. Likely filled in after use and possibly even void of charcoal if it was removed after firing to be repurposed.

[@AncientPottery]

Thanks for this, lots to think about and try.

[@nansen5273]

Ciao from Italy.

[@rossk7927]

For the pot you pulled out, I'd think the air you trapped under it would have enough oxygen to turn it red. So you'd need a way to remove that oxygen before the paint starts oxidizing - or place it in an already reduced environment. You might be able to take advantage of the fact that CO2 is heavier than air. The trick to using this would be in how to capture cool CO2 from the fire and channel it into a pit you could place the pot in.

[@rossk7927]

An idea just struck me. It's not primitive at face value but might have some primitive equivalent. You could generate CO2 with baking soda. If you place down a warm (around 60-100C maybe) sherd, pour some coarse baking soda (the stuff sold for cleaning) on it, then place the bowel over it. The decomposition of the baking soda would produce CO2 gas which could force out the trapped air. There's an additional problem to solve and that is air is going to be drawn through the pot body as the trapped air inside it cools, and creates a vacuum, bringing fresh oxygen. Maybe this could be overcome by doing all of this in a pit and sprinkling baking soda over the pot periodically throughout cooling.

[@AncientPottery]

Thanks Ross. Your ideas about CO2 also suggest that "smother in place" is superior because you already have those gasses hanging out there in the pit.

[@AncientPottery]

I think also moving a shovelful or two of the hot coals to place under the potter could consume any oxygen there too.

[@llanitedave]

@@AncientPottery If I was a potter, having hot coals shoveled under me would certainly motivate me to consume lots of oxygen! 😄

[@AncientPottery]

@@llanitedave Ha!

[@Kargoneth]

Oxidation is exothermic. Carbon monoxide and heat reduces the red iron oxide to elemental iron and releases carbon dioxide. As soon as you expose the iron to air, it will immediately begin to oxidize (either red or black oxide). The soot covering (when fired in the presence of oxygen) should convert into carbon dioxide. But this additional oxygen will interfere with the reduction reaction. It seems optimal to surround the pot in a hot, soot-free firing chamber where you can swap between introducing oxygen to remove the existing soot and then switch to carbon monoxide to reduce the red iron oxide into elemental iron. From there, however, I am not sure how you would prevent the elemental iron from re-oxidizing into red oxide. I think you need to figure out how to transform it from elemental iron into black oxide (magnetite).

[@AncientPottery]

Thanks for the chemistry. I am trying to figure out how the ancient potters did it and they didn’t have kilns which is why this is so complicated.

[@Sheepdog1314]

how would rust work...it already is an oxide

[@AncientPottery]

Yes rust is essentially the same as hematite, it is just iron oxide.

[@mihailvormittag6211]

👍

[@mireillepoterie9213]

Ce qui serait judicieux, c'est de faire une traduction en français. Mais c'est intéressant. Merci

[@AncientPottery]

J'aimerais savoir s'il existe un moyen de le faire sans avoir à engager un traducteur. Savez-vous?

[@tomasneel1980]

Nice job Andy, I envy you, just next time start your fire by a bow and drill, lol

[@AncientPottery]

It's interesting to me how different people choose to draw that line between modern and primitive in different places. I know people who start their fires that way but I have never been inclined. I only care when the primitive tech can have some influence on the outcome, so a fire started with a lighter burns the same as one started with friction and clay dug with a shovel behaves the same as clay dug with a digging stick. But it is actually something I think about often as I work. Thanks

[@jcknives4162]

I wonder if a fire extinguisher (powder) would prevent cooling and prevent oxidation. I realize the foolishness of the time period you are working in. But my mind goes to places of possibility when I experience a problem to consider. Or perhaps a completely burned wood ash or volcanic ash. My mind is still wondering.

[@AncientPottery]

Yes, both could work depending on how stuck on tradition you were, and both would make for an interesting video too.

[@TemplarX2]

Reduced iron is what? Rust reduced?

[@AncientPottery]

Black iron

[@TemplarX2]

@@AncientPottery Wouldn't that quickly oxidize and turn to rust again? Although rust is a beautiful colour.

[@nathon1942]

Greece: 💀

[@AncientPottery]

I don't get it

[@CzechDressing]

I love being early hehehe

[@randolphfriend8260]

💗 🩶 🖤

[@oldugly9295]

nice video. i was wondering. When the ancient people fired they would fire a vast amount of pottery in one spot and over a period of time this would create a nice bed of organic free ashes. maybe they fired in a depression in the ground maybe not but like you said don't move the pots, just bury them in the ashes from the previous firings. and don't move them until the next day, stone cold. like you said this is most likely not a one day process.. again just thinking out loud, someday i'll get to attempt it. great video thank you

[@AncientPottery]

Yes, I have seen the ash piles below Antelope Mesa at Hopi and they are truly impressive. No doubt ashes were abundant and readily available to them.

[@oldugly9295]

@@AncientPottery the one thing i keep thinking is. Humans can't move fast enough to avoid the oxygen. and i would guess ancient peoples would not have picked up and move a red hot pot. interesting tho!!! i really hope you figure it out.

[@AncientPottery]

@@oldugly9295 I moved the bowl using scraps of broken pot sherds. The ancients could have done the same. I think a few coals placed under the pot might solve the problem of moving faster than oxygen.