Extended ISOs: Why you SHOULD use ISO 50!

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[@TonyAndChelsea]

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[@DevonWayne]

emojies worked great on my facebook ads, good idea

[@shang-hsienyang1284]

Camera manufacturers should release a sensor with R G B B B B B B B configuration so that Tony can finally be happy about the noise level in the skies!

[@sounddefault9105]

get me a monochrome ccd interchangeable body and you’ll never hear any complaints out of me, even if it’ll have “just” 2.07mPx

[@rocheuro]

or use a foveon x3 senaor with 3 layers of photocella

[@Originalimoc]

LOL

[@Indignepourdeux]

Cameras with a dedicated button to plays eiffel65

[@iforgotmyusername0]

ISO is applied gain. Ambient lit exposure is* aperture vs shutter speed. The ISO 50 shots were cleaner because double the light was captured.. i.e. via halving the shutter speed. This same can be achieved without ISO 50 - if using the base ISO 100 just simply overexpose a stop via shutter or aperture and pull back in post.... Its called "shooting to the right" (of the histogram)

[@muffemod]

also known as clipping the highlights :P

[@djuydoiu2627]

there must be happening something else here too if you do that the image also gets brighter

[@clundberg30]

You are precisely correct! Tony could've simple shot his ISO 100 images with +1 Exp Comp and pulled the exposure back -1.00 in Lightroom and I'm willing to bet the noise is the same.

[@thequantaleaper]

@@djuydoiu2627 the image is brighter, but the EXIF data tells the interpreter to decrease exposure for the preview. But he could have shot the same things +1EV @ ISO100 and ended up with the same DR.

[@john_miller_]

I thought so too. Dpreview has a great article about "exposure to the right (ETTR)"

[@digitalartenvy2773]

LOVE THE QUICK TIPS right to the point and not going on about how your day was

[@wilbignal]

I do photography at the beach often in the Cayman Islands and use ISO 50 pretty often, not for the improved image quality but for the ability to lengthen my shutter speed when I just can't get the amount of movement in crashing or receding waves that I need. I feel this is a better reason to use ISO 50.

[@ericnordean88]

I seriously feel like I learn more with every video I watch from you guys.:) thanks for being on KZbin. Without a doubt one of my favorite channels

[@danieleubank5645]

apologies for the interruption but was a pleasure meeting you all here in Riverside, keep doing what you do, love the channel and always valuable information you all provide, especially enjoy your podcasts! thanks and have a great time and safe trip back

[@RobTrek]

Great video. Makes me think about different ways of taking and processing pictures. I've seen charts where extended low iso reduces dynamic range, but you've shown the difference between technical results vs real world. Thanks again!

[@DmitryBrodsky007]

thats why it is great to have native ISO60 on D810

[@martinaee]

This is interesting, but honestly not that big a deal even for huge prints. I'm not saying it doesn't have ANY impact, but definitely I wouldn't be using ISO 50 all the time just to try to get slightly more noise free images. On bright days where you can still use a high shutter speed, sure, but with my D800 cranking up the ISO a bit to several hundred is what I'll always choose (especially handheld) over going with a much lower shutter speed .

[@saiiiiiii1]

Dmitry Brodsky it's not about the actual value but lowering your iso below the native value. should be iso 32 for the d810 iirc

[@jongrall]

I've actually found myself using the low extended ISO when I needed to slow my shutter speed down to blur running water a little in daylight when I don't have my ND filters with me. This produces a better result than stopping down your aperture beyond the optimal range for your lens and introducing diffraction. Good to know that ISO 50 can actually result in lower noise when you don't need the full dynamic range and highlight recovery.

[@spamare]

If you shoot jpg, ISO L is good because to overexpose 1 stop and pull it back in post looks like sh*t. If you shoot raw, ISO 100 is the lowest ISO you should use with a Canon if you don´t use ML real ISO 66 with a for example 5DIII. ETTR, use ML in camera raw histogram for feedback. If you can´t install ML, check the raw histogram in post using Rawdigger or RawTherapee.

[@mikebromelow8514]

I was actually thinking of doing that very thing today!

[@a.keithclarke7975]

@@spamare, what is this 'ML' you refer to?

[@spamare]

Magic Lantern.

[@patspencer9375]

Thanks for the tips....on a completely unrelated note - I love the videos as it virtually takes me back to my grandparents beach on Pequot Ave overlooking the New London Ledge Lighthouse.....and every time I visit my parents we go for a walk on that boardwalk Niantic Bay.

[@davidk845]

I know you did an image averaging video already but you should do a tutorial on night photography in particular the Milky Way and incorporate image stacking and how you would properly align the stars. It'd be good content and a fun shoot

[@Ryan.Matlock]

I'd like to see a video on this too. Sure, I'm about to Google it right now, but it's more fun to watch Tony and/or Chelsea explain it.

[@ddenizc]

Buy a Nikon, or Sony, get a sharp lens, Learn the basic contrast adjustments on photoshop ,learn how to blend layers selectively based on brightness and you will be all set, too see samples, visit my Instagram.com/ddcak , all Astros are single raw files carefully adjusted to increase contrast. No stacking, and 15 minutes to complete.

[@Ryan.Matlock]

I watched the @lonelyspeck video on Milky Way image stacking and tried it out with a Sony A7II and a Zeiss Batis 25mm f/2 (not the *best* setup, I know, but it's what I have). I was pleased with the reduction in noise from manually stacking 8 raw images, although I have to say, your IG pictures look great. Even with better gear, I think I'm many years away from being half the photographer you are, so I'm content to waste my time on pointless post-processing for now.

[@ddenizc]

Thanks for the compliment, really appriciated however I also feel that you have great gear and talent . You just have to learn how to Command and compose light. When I started a year ago with photoshop , I only saw what there was on the screen and tried to make it look good, then through trial and error I have discovered that the raw file has a lot more hidden in there and you just have to figure out a way to get it out.Now I imagine how it should look and get the photo there. Get this book and thank me later, Digital Landscape Photography , Michael Frye , and meet the Master Ansel Adams :) your photography will change halfway through the book. You just need to push yourself more but not through youtube, learn the science and art behind it, the techniques of non photoshop area , your brain will naturally evolve to command photoshop .

[@pupperemeritus9189]

just use sequator, itll align for you. if you have a foreground then you can freeze the foreground and has some more options too. but its not as difficult to learn as deepskystacker and is much faster

[@65WZ]

I usually use ISO 50 when shooting outdoors in bright sunlight, and want to open up the aperture of the lens to the maximum (f/1.2 or 1.4).

[@DJewell]

Thanks, you just answered my burning question, "why not use ISO L(50)?". I just recently planned on changing and testing my camera using ISO L (50) but haven been able to test it out yet. Still recovering from shoulder surgery. I bought your book a few years back and it helped me a great deal.

[@lamester]

loving that 4K60 smoothness!

[@WaniMedia]

I ALWAYS use extended lowas much as possible with fast glass! always works for me on post and raw files 12 or 14 bit.

[@AJ-em2rb]

sorry to dig up a year+ old comment, but I love the phrase "extended Iowas"!!!

[@rocheuro]

or shoot iso 100 and overexpose (but try not to burn highlights) than lower exposure -1 in post.. and you have virtually ISO50 on your ISO100 camera.. ;) - you're welcome!

[@ales_krejci]

basically if you shoot in any semiautomatic mode and compensate +1EV you get the same result (and then making it back -1EV in post), you could do +2EV for even stronger effect etc., but I dont thing this means higher dynamic range, just less noise in shadows and it comes with a cost

[@KaoukabiJaouad]

ISO 50 even if it not native is basically like ELTTR (Exposing a little to the Right) exactly by one stop, it's ETTR for people who don't know what ETTR and sensor saturation means(works outside when you have plenty of light), but the big question is, how good a native low ISO less than 100 compared to a non native one ..... , you should have compared 2 pictures on a D810 the native 64 ISO compared to an ISO of 100 ETTR by one stop and underexposed by one stop in post ........

[@KaoukabiJaouad]

Given also the fact that the D810 sensor and image processor is ISO invariant(ISO 1600 + 1 Stop in post is the same thing as shooting at ISO 3200), a mystery yet to be solved ..... , my guess is ISO 64 produce a cleaner image compared to ISO 100 ETTR'd by 2/3 of a Stop and underexposed to the correct exposure in post, otherwise they wouldn't called "native"....... by still it has to be tested .....

[@Sondercreative]

Thank you for making this video Tony, I really appreciate it. I can't tell you how useful this information is to me.

[@armandot9137]

I have been doing this for ages and people always said it made no sense. Glad to hear I am not the only one now seeing this

[@minilab9030]

Temporarily abandoned the Lumix G9 DSLR....in favour of hammering out photographs using an Asahi Pentax S3 35mm SLR [manufacture of which was discontinued in 1962]...via 200 and 400iso b/w and colour positive 35mm film. Could I possibly learn more about iso and other variables by taking up the heft of an old SLR camera which does not use batteries? Was my DSLR encouraging me to spray and pray? Time will tell. Have not developed the photographs yet....they may all be ghastly. Great video. Thank you again x

[@senged]

There's something funky going on at the rightmost side of the frame where Tony speaks. It is more saturated and contrasty than the rest of the image.

[@BenjaminKanarek]

True...I find shooting at extended low that the noise is less than native iso.

[@MarkTengPhoto]

So basically, this method is having you expose to the right in automatic modes? I assume it would make no difference if you are shooting manual and already exposing for the highlights.

[@djthedadiofficial]

Magic Lantern has a tool that does something very similar called ETTR (Expose to the right). It adjusts your settings so that you are just on the verge of blowing out the highlights in any given frame, allowing you to lower exposure to correct in post. Time consuming, though.

[@systemo20]

I love your channel. Just ask yourself any question. You guys got the answer. Thanks alot.

[@abedj1220]

Thanks for the video. my 6d only has a shutter speed of up to 1/4000. sometimes shooting into the sun that is not fast enough for what I want. I did not know my camer could go to 50 ISO . so now I can try that to see if that helps me.

[@MrKockabilly]

Camera/Sensor manufacturers should have ISO starting from 0 (0 to 50 then could serve as the digital ND filter), which is sooo important in video if you want to shoot wide open (for shallow DOF) and maintaining appropriate shutter speed for motion blur. Would it be technically more difficult to suppress sensor sensitivity than to boost it?

[@dennishumbla5431]

Great tipp! 👍 more time for light to come In at ISO 50 then and push down the dynamicrange from the highlights and down to the shadows and letting me raise up the shadows with less noice In them and without blowing out the highlights.. 👍 and how about sweet spots In ISO like for an example ISO640 kan be better than ISO400 In noice?

[@ushanastrivedi368]

There was already a good reason to do that. No, No, No, it's not noise. But rather to make your shutter speed slower. Especially when you are shooting on tripod subjects like water, clouds etc. I know you may say you have ND filters for that. But hey! Sometimes you need only 1 stop low shutter speed & why to mess with filters for that

[@jackthehatphoto]

ISO 50 has only TWO genuine uses: 1. For jpeg shooters it can help prevent the shutter speed maxing out at wide apertures in bright light. 2. In the same scenario as my first point, it will show a correctly exposed image on the LCD screen of the camera. There are ZERO other benefits. RAW shooters may as well overexpose by 1 stop at ISO 100 and correct in post. That goes for the supposed image quality "benefit" spouted in this video. If you're really that obsessed with noise at base ISO then shoot at 100 and pull the exposure back 1 stop in post. You'll lose a bit of DR but in many situations there is still enough DR to make the shot work.

[@GordLamb]

I know this is an old post... but: "For jpeg shooters it can help prevent the shutter speed maxing out at wide apertures in bright light." This isn't true. Whatever the base ISO is (say, 100 or 200), that's the least sensitive the sensor is going to get. Extending down to ISO50 doesn't change anything electronically. If you've reached the maximum shutter speed and you're still clipping, ISO50 will only make the highlight situation worse by decreasing the shutter speed. If you can't switch to a faster electronic shutter and you're shooting JPEG, you have two options: 1. EV compensation 2. ND filter ISO50 will always produce worse results than the above, *unless* your goal is simply to recover shadows or decrease shadow noise at the complete expense of highlights (which makes no sense if your issue is supposedly maximum shutter speed). Extended lower ISO is really only useful for situations where you'd like to trade highlight clipping for improved shadow/midtone performance, but don't want to deal with EV compensation in post (ie. JPEG output or time saving).

[@kirkbeaumont5295]

On a side note..that GH5 is taking some crisp looking video. Great stuff as usual!

[@svanteekholm7334]

Great video as always. I have a Sony APS-C with a speedbooster which increases my exposure by 1 stop compared to a straight adapter when adapting full frame lenses. So as long as I'm not clipping the histogram in my shots, I should overexpose by 1 stop and bring it down 1 stop in post to get almost exactly the same image as the full frame camera would with a straight adapter using that lens, in terms of total light gathered AND noise? Cheers

[@uvdpuqhcpenfyalf]

What mode is the camera in? You said that lowering ISO from 100 to 50 causes camera to compensate by prolonging exposure time. You're not going to get same result if your camera is in manual mode. Finally, the biggest factor in ISO/noise relationship is the ISO-invariance curve of your particular sensor.

[@ipedros7]

An opportunity to show this with a model, and checking critical focus in the eye. Would the one stop correction imply too much softening?

[@jamessingleton9159]

The 4k 60fps looks great Tony!

[@JoeBob79569]

4k60fps... YES! Please let this be the norm for all videos everywhere as soon as possible.. :-)

[@jasonrobertokennedy6760]

This makes total sense to reduce noise (as you explained). So, I wonder if this would work on something like the x5s on an aerial platform?? Time to test. Thnx!

[@dunnymonster]

If you reduce sensor gain ( which is what reducing ISO from 100 to 50 is ) you would certainly reduce your risk of blowing highlights. However you could also be reducing overall dynamic range this way too by failing to saturate the sensor fully. Whatever ISO you choose to use you should be monitoring the histogram carefully to ensure the best overall exposure. It is interesting however how your ISO50 shots were clearly less noisy, I wouldn't have expected that to be honest but I've never owned a camera with an extended low setting to try it out 😃

[@GThenameisleo]

dunnymonster The sensor gain is not being reduced. At ISO 50, an overexposed ISO 100 picture is taken, and then corrected via the camera's internal processing (to reduce the overexposure), resulting in less noise. This is why it's labelled 'extended ISO'.

[@dunnymonster]

Leo Gacitua I disagree, increasing ISO is increasing signal gain thus reducing it below it's native ISO would be effectively decreasing gain. if you simply want to reduce your exposure by one stop then alter shutter speed or aperture, these are the only aspects that can affect exposure ultimately.

[@petrolbokehlicious]

Great watching you in p60! Everything looks more real life-like!

[@DmitryBrodsky007]

the reason they really include ISO50 is something during bright day with a bright lens you run out of shutter speed at 1/8000, so instead of 1/16000, canon gives you ISO50.

[@shifteleven]

by my calculations - f/2 (f/2.8 if it's really sunny) at ISO 50 and 1/8000 of a sec?

[@kylewolfe_]

Why though? If the highlights are clipped at ISO 100, going down to ISO 50 isn't going to fix it. Which to me kinda defeats the entire purpose of having that lower ISO, because the only reason why I would use it is to avoid having over exposed highlights. It just seems pointless to me.

[@DmitryBrodsky007]

if you want to shoot that F1.2 or F1.4 at these apertures on a beach in Sunny California, where I live, shooting at ISO100 your photo would be overblown to being unusable. That extra ISO50 helps to bring it at least to a realm where you can work with the file later in PP (not blown beyong recognition). On some of mirrorless cameras (like my Fuji) it's nice that they include 1/32000 shutter speed so I don't have to deal with it.

[@DmitryBrodsky007]

Playfer what I found in real life that if your shot is grossly overexposed at ISO 100 and 1/8000. Like to the point it won't recover the highlights if I go to iso50, the shot may come still overexposed but not to the point that cannot be brought back. We are not taking overexposed by just one stop. There is a certain amount of room in dr after which u are just beyond help. However that one stop less of overexposure and you can still recover. I hope I am Explaining it clearly

[@shifteleven]

If ISO 50 is an extended ISO and that's the only thing you touch in your exposure triangle, there's no difference in ISO 50 from the camera and ISO 100 overexposed by a stop in Lightroom -- as long as you're shooting a RAW file. If this ISO is a native ISO, then it it will matter; however, that's not the point of this video. If you say there is a difference, can you share some samples of how at ISO 100 has highlights that are unrecoverable and different from that at ISO 50? I would be very curious.

[@greysonwoods4367]

Thank you! I was avoiding the lower parts of my Iso range.

[@mg428]

Tony this video targets RAW shooters. What is your take on using low-ISO modes for JPEGs?

[@jjk9999]

I have read that on canon, using iso 160, 320, 640 and 1280 were best noise wise in dark situations because of a quirk in how the camera processes. when it tweaks an iso to be brighter, the noise is worse, but when it tweaks an iso to be darker, the noise is better. so 125 (100 brightened a smidge) has worse noise than 160 (200 darkened a smidge). I didn't think to use 50 for this purpose because the accepted knowledge is that iso 100 is as good as noise can get. But now we see that's not true, I'll be using 50 as my go to iso. (maybe except for high key photos)

[@DavidAnthony00]

What is the difference between ISO 50 vs ISO 100 +1 EV exposure compensation?

[@shifteleven]

I'm guessing it would be overexposed looking in the camera preview and when you drop the RAW file exposure by a stop in Lightroom, they would be the same

[@DavidAnthony00]

That's my guess too, unless the camera is doing something clever to protect against overblown highlights. However if that's not the case then this method seems like a very clunky way to ETTR by 1 stop over what the in-camera metering exposed followed by reducing by 1 EV in post. Why not just look at the histogram and apply EC as necessary, which may be 1 stop, or less, or more?

[@shifteleven]

DavidAnthony00 not really. it's just a way to get it right in the camera instead of getting it right in post. using the exposure compensation dial will produce previews that are overexposed.

[@DavidAnthony00]

In case my comment came across as snarky, let me say I really appreciate the video content that Tony and Chelsea provide and I've bought their book on how to be a better photographer.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

+DavidAnthony00 the raw file would be the same but your preview won't be overexposed. Just makes it easier to use.

[@MrSylvayn]

It’s same on SONY a7r ? Tranks you do always very good job 👍

[@joeglennaz]

HI, Tony! I have a question. I just saw a video where a guy was shooting a sunset scene with this drone it was an Autel the bright orange one, ( I have a DJI Phantom 3 Pro ) and his foreground was not dark. You could see what was on the ground. My favorite time to fly is at Dust. In Arizona, you can get just some Amazing shots of the sunset and the purple mountains, the desert big wide open spaces, BUT if I don't wait until the sun goes behind the Horizon and I'm facing the sun, then everything in my foreground is dark. Do you know how I can fix this? I'm assuming it can be done as I saw a video as I mentioned of someone else that did it... Thanks so much! I also enjoyed your video about shooting an event with the drone.

[@MrMick560]

Very interesting, many thanks, mick.

[@TimMcBroome]

Interesting information, I have never played with the extended iso on my E-M1. I will need to play with it now.

[@sgpork]

Right.. I like to use ISO 50 when I need longer shutter speed but doesnt want to put a ND. Maybe now in bright sunlight.. I should shoot more ISO 50 too.. to see if its better?...

[@michaelspersective5561]

Great tip, thanks Tony.

[@russellhouston3759]

Hey.... That's Milestone Power Plant!!! (from Niantic). And.... It's the Thames River Lighthouse!!! That's awesome..... You're in my area!!!

[@compasspropertiesnow]

Love the shot of the Ledge! 😀

[@vhc7764]

Hey Tony....I thought you planned to stop using DSLRs after testing the A9 (smiles)...just tugging at your shirt tails. I always enjoy your presentations!

[@chocokrispisconleche]

At 1:50 you say that the shutter was opened twice as long because the ISO was half the speed. Isn't ISO supposed to be the sensor/film sensibility to light?

[@lodgehexi]

Very interesting video! Thank you very much for the research!

[@mountainhobo]

Tony, wouldn't that matter more on the Canon? My Nikon D7000 tends to expose to the right already (whereas my Canon 6D tended to be very protective of highlights), and the shadows tend to be cleaner in recovery on a Nikon than Canon (perhaps that has changed now). In other words, wouldn't it be to some degree camera dependent?

[@TuJabe]

On my Lumix G70 i found that extended ISOs (ISO 100 in this case) make look OOC-JPGs much cleaner. Blocky artifacts become very quickly visible in noisy areas, especially when using the silentshutter mode with reduced dynamic range in the shadowparts. On the other side: Blown out highlights get those weird hard lines, while native ISO 200 have a more smooth transition into the pure white which makes picutres look more natural. Same problem i noticed with contrasty bokeh in backgrounds. So it realy depends, if the scenery and motive allows to use the extended ISO. In the end i think its more a goodie for JPEG-Shooters. RAW-Users do not have to bother to much about that setting - unless you often underexposing your shots by accident. But it's always fun to play with that stuff, isn't it.

[@zackj997]

Would this also apply to other cameras? More specifically, a mirrorless Sony? Thanks!

[@shifteleven]

Yes

[@areguly]

Sounds like this would be a good trade off on the 6D Mark II, where it hurts on the shadows way more than it hurts on the highlights.

[@veneratedmortal4369]

It's kind of like averaging 2 photos, also if you need more motion blur its another option over an ND filter.

[@WhittyPics]

Wouldn't the 50 ISO give you another stop of balancing daylight flash sync? I used to use Medium format and that 1/500 flash sync came in handy when I was trying to get the strobe to balance with the bright daylight.

[@A.L.T.A.F]

Could you pls list the cameras, which have 50 ISO option. Thanks.

[@nomizomichani]

Interesting.... I am new to digital photography but in film days, to capture details from shadows, a photographer would overexpose by one stop and underdevelop. I wonder if this is similar to that concept.

[@Josemim]

As clear as always. Great tip, thanks

[@jaketutton7861]

Tony, could you please make a video for the best zoom lenses you can get on a nikon d3300, the ones that make the most use of the 24mp body, thanks!

[@DLCSpider]

I like some noise in the sky, prevents posterization. But this still might have some uses.

[@sebo2627]

It's easy, every picture I take I take it at ISO100 and also L01 then which one is better goes on! Usually in lower light it's not worth shoot at ISO 50, for obvious reason!

[@sue120502]

Interesting and useful to know. Thanks and I've just subscribed to your channel.

[@martinaee]

I think it's important... and he only hit on this briefly... that you WILL lose highlight detail if the image is clipped to begin with at the base iso level. You can't magically have it go *beyond* that base iso level (what it's doing with the lower iso setting) and then reduce the exposure with software and expect there to be no loss of highlights. If you bring the exposure right up to the edge of highlight clipping anyway with the base iso with the intent on not losing highlights then this makes no sense to use the lower iso levels. I think Tony needs to not make it see like this is a catch all that people should be using no matter what. For people like myself who do not want to lose any highlights this isn't necessarily a good idea. I use a D800 which has great shadow recovery so it makes more sense for me to expose right up to almost blowing out the highlights and then bring up the shadows in post processing if necessary.

[@allphototalk4074]

Low is good as long as you have ample light. Low ISO in low light equals problems. In addition some "prosumer" camera bodies have a "fake" lower ISO. In other words its there to sell the camera and not to improve the quality or resolution.

[@VideoMarketingExperts]

Thanks for the explanation! Do I lose any quality filming with the gh5 in extended ISO e.g. 100 when it is too bright? Sigma 18-35mm@f/1.2 (MFT) & ND6

[@dj_laundry_list]

What is the electronic/physical limitation for ISO lower bound on CCD and CMOS sensors? It seems to me that manufacturers could just up the ADC voltage (at the expense of shooting at very high ISO, which isn't very useful anyway) or increase bit depth to lower ISO. It's suspicious that most of our iso lower bound is similar to that of film

[@spencergeorge4941]

Go much lower than ISO 50/64 and you start getting noise from things like thermal interference and other random electrical things.

[@puredistancegolf]

Thanks Tony.

[@RynaxAlien]

Nightvision sensitivity rocks

[@jensvielmann7662]

Another reason for ISO 50: Long(er) Exposures. Blue Hour cityscapes w/ water no ND (or other trick required). But I guess that is kind of obvious :D

[@spamare]

For jpg. For raw, just overexpose.

[@metalgrinch]

My camera doesn't go lower than 100, so I guess I'm screwed and will never shoot anything good. 😔

[@MurCellic1903]

nope. Not every top photographer cares about ISO much. Some shoot even at 400 for sake of shutter speed. In astrophotography you can't go lower than 1600. So if your concern is "good" just go out and shoot.

[@martinaee]

Pretty much. Just throw it in your nearest lake.

[@AnthonyJohnston1]

Why can't you shoot lower than 1600?

[@notlun]

Astrophotographer here, you can actually go lower than 1600 provided that you've got the equipment to support that decision (Mount, guider, etc). It's really expensive though

[@AnthonyJohnston1]

You've lost me. I'm a complete newb at astrophotography. You are referring to using a telescope correct? and in which case, what does the ISO have to do with that equipment anyways?

[@gazdyer2732]

Very interesting Tony , thank you .

[@ScavangedReality]

Hey guys,I am looking for a decent zoom lens should I get?I will be shooting a mix of still and video at an outside graduation. It is held at a football field in the cent of the field, and I will be sitting in the bleachers off to the side. What lens could get me enough reach while being decently sharp? (It doesn't have to be the best, just fairly good). My budget to work with is around $400 USD, but this can flex down or up a little. I am planning to also buy the camera at the same time, should I get the kit lens if it is really cheap in a combo? I could also consider the 80d and get a lens but I really like the 4k and 120p of the A6500. I appreciate your input.

[@Eddie87Grant]

Good ol' Connecticut. I love Waterford New London shoreline.

[@fish3010]

Or you can shoot at base NATIVE iso, expose for highlights and just correct after that and you get BETTER dynamic range.

[@stefansmuts8882]

Um...expose to the right? Why make it confusing with using extended iso? Anyone who cares enough about image quality to use this would be using the histogram to shoot with the appropriate exposure comp/manual settings. I appreciate the info on exposing to the right, but this seems like a workaround which could cause you to accidentally clip the highlights. The only small advantage to this method is not seeing an overexposed image displayed on the back of the camera.

[@iamwhatiam6281]

I use L1 on d800 when at 1/8000 and wide open in daylight situation I want to underexpose the ambient light and use the flash in hss to illuminate the subject without changing the aperture

[@w1nterblind]

Is the takeaway from this that cameras meter for the JPEG (not to clip the JPEG highlights) rather than for the RAW file (that has a lot more room in the highlights)?

[@johnnyshih324]

Really helpful! Thanks!

[@Vivaedimpari09]

I thought also meant how sensitive your sensor is not how long the shutter stays open for?

[@purdiecomms]

Yay from England. Received your SDP book today! A birthday present from me to me. Looking forward to bedtime so I can settle down and have a read!

[@curiosity2314]

Light is everything, from there all else is decided..

[@nickpowell1980]

I have the Panasonic G7, and when I shoot at ISO 100 using the extended ISO, all of the highlights show up purple in Lightroom. When using the native ISO 200... no problem. Is there a way around this??

[@jkerman5113]

Yes, but how is the noise performance at iso 100,000?

[@RyanH0809]

I'll play with this on my Fujifilm X-T2. but so I understand, using this method, I would specifically expose for the highlights? correct? and then the noise in my shadows will be cleaner? or am I misunderstanding?

[@RyanH0809]

okay. I understand. I'll play with it some this weekend and test my results! I wish Fuji had just used a normal base ISO of 100 for transparency sake. none the less, love that setup. thanks for the reply!

[@RyanH0809]

Yeah, I remember the video. Kinda defies the entire purpose behind the "ISO" name, doesn't it!? ;)

[@YannickKhong]

Seems iso 50 also removes colors and tones perhaps due to in camera processing. The iso 100 images in the comparison always seem to reveal more shades of colors than the 50.

[@photographerjonathan]

i have wanted to know this ISO question ever since Nikon had the lower ISO. ( Tony i have an unrelated question about Sony ) if Sony is going to have an A7r lll. and an A9r. how are they going to do this. everyone who is waiting for the new A7r lll wants the better focusing. 2 sd cards. touch screen. and all the improvements that the A9 got eccept the 20fps. but if Sony only gives all the best stuff to the A9r. then they are keeping the A7r line dumbed down. and it could be the same situation with an A7s snd A9s. also there is the pricing issue. the A9 is $4500 because it is competing with the 1DX ll. or D5. but an A9r will be competing with a D810. and 5Dsr. and Sony's own A99ll. So if an A9r is priced similar at $3500. then how do they price the A7r lll. and if an A9r is $4500 will it sell ? and if it does sell at a thousand dollars more than the Nikon and Canon. how is that going to effect the camera market. it makes me wonder how the A7 line and A9 line will co exist. or will Sony only have one A9 model. what do you think ? personally i am waiting for an A7r lll. and i am hoping it will have 93% focus point coverage. improved eye focusing. 2 sd cards. a touch screen. and joy stick. and maybe a small improvement in fps.

[@theCameraVille]

thank you tony!

[@johnarganaut6282]

Can you do it in low light, e.g., in a poorly-lit gym without flash shooting basketball?

[@fredguerin2674]

what about flash synch speed ? is Shooting at iso 50 / and 1/200 equal to iso 100 and 1/400 sec ? if it is, it gives you flexibility.

[@noel.friedrich]

The shutter speed gives different results in combination with iso but it won't change the shutter speed at all, it will always be the same cuz it's an in camera thing that cannot be changed in post

[@nathaniellecompte7354]

May I ask a question? How does ISO invariably play into this?

[@BenjaminKanarek]

Exactly...I prefer my Fujifilm X-T3 at 80 iso.

[@samkid1658]

Hey, when are you going to do your next stream ?? It's been more than 1 week ...