Making Custom Eurorack Front Panels with a Laser Engraver

I finally got a new, larger eurorack case! But it's shallower than my old one, so I need to re-format some modules to fit. Time to make a custom faceplate with my new laser engraver.
I'm combining 3 of the Hexinverter NeinOhNein drum modules into one so I can stack the PCBs and make a module sandwich. This is a very ad-hoc and manual process, but the front panel can be designed on the computer for a more professional looking result.
I ended up using some satin black Rustoleum spraypaint on top of some matte white Krylon. The laser is absorbed by the black paint, ablating it, and reflected by the white, leaving it intact. You can then remove the paint residue using rubbing alcohol.
The laser settings were very forgiving, I think I ended up using about 20% power and 100mm/minute for most of the marking. I found it was helpful to slightly defocus the laser to cover a wider area during engraving and to not mark the black paint when moving around in "finding" mode (5.5W at 1% will still etch black surfaces!).
My old Eurorack case is for sale: reverb.com/ite...
Hexinverter NeinOhNein modules: www.hexinverter...
NEJE 3 laser engraver: www.aliexpress...
Lightburn CNC software: lightburnsoftw...

[@MeeBilt]

Wow, that panel looks super-nice! 😎Brilliant work with shuffling around the PCBs and make it fit into the new case. I'm thinking of getting a laser engraver/cutter, but I need to figure out a way to install a forced ventilation/fume extraction in my workspace, since I want to be able to cut acrylic and wood. Very inspiring video, thanks!

[@extralifedisco]

Thanks! Yes, the ventilation is a much needed tool. I opened the windows and ran the laser cutter in the other room for engraving the paint layer, and it wasn't too bad. I did try cutting a few pieces of acrylic and the fumes are not fun to be around. I gather that the acrylic fumes are non-toxic but that cutting ABS or other styrenes can produce chlorine, cyanide, and other noxious gases so have stayed away from experimenting.

[@sp1068]

Maybe a laser engraver is the way to go in making custom black faceplates for vintage audio equipment. People are having these faceplates made, and nobody is sharing information on how to have it done themselves.

[@dcurry7287]

Another great video! Please get or make an enclosure for your laser though, in my opinion it's criminally negligent that beginner-oriented kits allowed to be sold without them. Besides dangers of the laser itself, all the fumes are nasty. I saw in another comment that you know some of the dangers of specific materials, but there are no good smoke fumes to breathe. Even a cardboard box internally wrapped in aluminum foil, a PC fan, and a flexible ducting like the kind a hardware store sells for clothes dryers going out to a window will make a big difference in internal air quality. Stay healthy and keep making cool stuff!

[@monkeyplusplus]

I came here to say the same thing! Please be good to your lungbits!

[@woosix7735]

what is your experience with the mean well psu? is it adequate?

[@extralifedisco]

Yes, the RT-50B, or better yet the RT-65B are solid, quiet supplies that are adequate for most setups. I have run into some noise issues when leaving the modules plugged into the 12V line at startup, so I installed a separate power so that I can turn each busboard on/off after connecting the power supply. In general, switchmode supplies can also become noisier with heat and larger current draw (think digital modules). I would suggest looking into larger units or linear transformer supplies if you have lots of those.

[@woosix7735]

@@extralifedisco great! thanks!

[@LuisCasstle]

You can buy layered materials that when engraved reveal a different color underneath. Like black on the surface but reveals white when engraved. Trotec is one company that I know of that sells it.

[@dingalarm]

It's called Aluminium Composite Panel (ACP) or "Dibond". I'd also like to use this material for front panels.

[@kirillurvancev2116]

Awesome,what thickness did u use of aluminium? Rust Oleim is white primer for aluminium or something else?You painted rust oleim and then black matt paint?

[@kurtloderlovespie]

I love your videos. Very informative and you use perfect pacing. You sound just like Steve Buscemi, too. Icing on the cake.

[@kaiserclicker8479]

yeah good song!

[@low_rise5030]

NeinOhNein! Was hast Du getan!? Love it! 🥰

[@JuanDale]

Awesome video, really inspiring! Where do you get the aluminum stock and what type of aluminum? There are a lot of options, many of which seem overpriced. Any suggestions would be great, thank you so much!

[@extralifedisco]

I just get plate stock at my local ace hardware usually. For small projects yes, it's always overpriced. I've also just called a local sheet metal fabricator and had them cut me some strips of aluminum sheet at standard eurorack height which was cheaper as I bought in a larger quantity.

[@PaavoLammikko]

Old aluminium traffic signs! Often free of cost and better for the environment.

[@wgdmodular1252]

Great design on the front panel! Really appreciate the most recent videos! Please keep it up!

[@strawmanhat]

Great job man. Thanks for sharing.

[@channelite]

Awesome video, thanks for making it!

[@bigdilliams]

best video on this topic, nice!

[@DustinWatts]

I kinda knew it would work. But actually seeing it with a good white undercoated coated aluminium sheet with black on top an seeing some pretty amazing details and results, make me very happy. My goal is to make a 19" channelstrip (pre-amp, compressor and EQ) with markings just like yours, and seeing your give me confidence it can work for me. And hopefully will stop me procrastinating and actually build my laser and get to work :) Thanks for the video! 👍 _Edit coming up:_ The panel looks amazing. Great work Extralife!

[@DustinWatts]

Edit: question after I posted my comment I realised I also wanted to ask you something: How much of each layer of paint? And I assume between white and black 24hrs and 24 before engraving,

[@extralifedisco]

I did just one layer of both. Trying again I would do one layer of self etching primer before laying down the white, as adhesion was poor when used alone. 24 hours between coats probably good, less time is acceptable in the summertime or if you dry the panel for 1-2 hours next to a radiant or electric heater (anything with high infrared output)

[@DustinWatts]

@@extralifedisco Thanks for the info. Seems less layers than I thought. Now my panel is a 19" which textured and power coated aluminium. So need way more sanding an definite a primer and maybe some more white. But the one layer of black for a pass is nice. Do you have any power and mm/s for me? I think I already said it, but very well sone! 😃

[@extralifedisco]

To my recollection I ran the laser at about 30% power at roughly 100mm/min. The process is quite forgiving as it's self limiting due to the white layer reflecting the blue light. I found it helpful to slightly defocus the laser for a slightly wider beam to use larger step overs between lines. This laser diode is something like 5W output (20W draw) and even in its low power "locating" mode it would still mark the black paint and cause it to smoke when focused sharply. One suggestion I would make with a large (19") panel is to divide the panel design into smaller sections so you don't need a huge CNC table and can do it in several setups. Good luck with the channel strip!

[@DustinWatts]

@@extralifedisco Thanks for all the info! If i remember I will let you know how it turned out!