Faded Car Headlight Restoration - 2008 Subaru Forester

My 12 year old Forester's headlights were badly faded from exposure to the elements. Twice I used the headlamp restoration kits that came with sandpaper of various grades and a final polishing compound. The restoration would last about 6 months, with the car parked in the open.
I had already bought new lens and a heatgun in preparation for that big (and risky?) task of removing the old clear lens and replacing it with a new set from a China source.
May showed me a video of a headlamp being restored with a blowtorch, so I thought - why not with a heatgun? Thought it over and it sounded very possible!
Here's the process :
1. Sand down the yellowed outer layer of acrylic with a sanding sponge (from the $2 shop). Use plenty of water as a lubricant and to flush away the plastic particles. You can feel the difference in resistance when the old plastic has been removed. It gets a little quieter and smoother when sanding.
2. Switch to 1000 grit waterproof sandpaper and sand only in the horizontal direction once you're happy that the entire surface has been sanded, switch to a vertical direction and continue sanding till the horizontal lines have disappeared. Switch back to horizontal sanding and this time, lighten the pressure, and watch till all vertical hairlines are gone.
3. Flush the lens surface throughly and dry it.
4. Now the tricky part - I used the maximum temperature and lowest airflow setting of the heatgun. I figured this would localise the heat better.
Move the heatgun slowly until you see the surface of the lens actually melt and absorb the hairline scratches left behind by the sandpaper. Once it melts, do not hold the heatgun at that area any longer. The surface would bubble once the acrylic overheats. Do not touch the surface of the lens, as it would be very soft and will definitely mark.
This should hold up much better than the restoration kits as the surface of the lens has melted and resolidified without any microscratches, and is not reliant on the sealing liquid to give it the glossy finish. It did not take any longer than the multiple sanding steps required by the restoration kits (It took me about 15 mins per headlamp)

[@dpisaacs]

That's a fine line between polished and crazed

[@lljermanyll8093]

Literally need to do this to my forester haha.

[@Priority57]

Nice job... Just need a protective coating to last longer

[@chrisfrank8413]

your missing a IMPORTANT finale step, and why it's not lasting, You need UV clear sealer as a finale step. That will keep the sun from damaging the plastic, as new.

[@Mingloid]

Thanks. I've purchased and applied a UV protectant after completing this job. Hopefully it'll last much longer than the headlight restoration kits (which I've previously followed to the letter).

[@Deutschehordenelite]

@@Mingloid And, did it last?

[@Mingloid]

@@Deutschehordenelite well, it lasted till I wrecked the car last year. What other options are there that will last as long? I still have a new set of lenses that were too hard to put on. I guess I'll throw them in the bin.

[@Deutschehordenelite]

@@Mingloid Ah that sucks, yeah I sanded my headlights several times now and it never lasted. I had to change one because it cracked and it was only like 80 bucks aftermarket, might be the better option going forward.

[@Mychenal1]

Мэй показал мне видео восстановления фары паяльной лампой, вот я и подумал - а почему бы и не строительным феном ? Подумал, и это звучало вполне возможно! Вот процесс: 1. Отшлифуйте пожелтевший внешний слой акрила шлифовальной губкой (из магазина за 2 доллара). Используйте большое количество воды в качестве смазки и смывайте частицы пластика. Вы можете почувствовать разницу в сопротивлении, когда старый пластик будет удален. При шлифовании становится немного тише и мягче. 2. Переключитесь на водостойкую наждачную бумагу с зернистостью 1000 и шлифуйте только в горизонтальном направлении, как только вы будете довольны тем, что вся поверхность отшлифована, переключитесь на вертикальное направление и продолжайте шлифование, пока не исчезнут горизонтальные линии. Вернитесь к горизонтальному шлифованию и на этот раз уменьшите давление и наблюдайте, пока не исчезнут все вертикальные линии. 3. Тщательно промойте поверхность линзы и высушите ее. 4. Теперь самое сложное - я использовал максимальную температуру и самый низкий расход воздуха в фене. Я полагал, что это лучше локализует тепло. Медленно перемещайте фен, пока не увидите, что поверхность линзы действительно плавится и поглощает тонкие царапины, оставленные наждачной бумагой. Как только он растает, больше не держите фен в этом месте. Поверхность будет пузыриться, как только акрил перегреется. Не прикасайтесь к поверхности линзы, так как она будет очень мягкой и обязательно оставит следы. Это должно держаться намного лучше, чем наборы для восстановления, поскольку поверхность линзы расплавилась и затвердела без каких-либо микроцарапин, и не зависит от герметизирующей жидкости, чтобы придать ей глянцевую поверхность. Это не заняло больше времени, чем несколько этапов шлифования, необходимых для реставрационных комплектов (у меня это заняло около 15 минут на каждую фару)

[@williamportillo4383]

Cuánto tiempo dura ese proceso con la pistola de calor

[@williamportillo4383]

Cuántos meses o años dura ese proceso de pistola de calor

[@Mychenal1]

@@williamportillo4383 Mueve el secador de pelo lentamente hasta que veas que la superficie de la lente realmente se derrite y absorbe los rasguños finos que dejó el papel de lija. Una vez que se derrita, no dejes más el secador de pelo en ese lugar. La superficie burbujeará tan pronto como el acrílico se sobrecaliente. No toque la superficie de la lente ya que será muy suave y definitivamente dejará marcas.

[@minicaneicut9796]

It s the best procedure posible

[@rahoffman123]

Wow

[@danielborrowdale3903]

Sand it and clear coat it with a good uv clear

[@callmebigpapa]

I dont think he needs to sand it since this reflows the plastic

[@abdullahmekran4537]

What do you use before using the heating machine?

[@Mingloid]

Fine sandpaper & water

[@abdullahmekran4537]

@@Mingloid thanks man

[@williamportillo4383]

Cuánto dura ese proceso

[@kaif2135]

You should buff

[@yammakashi]

What was the heat temperature?

[@Mingloid]

It was the highest temperature on the Stanley heat gun, with the lowest airflow. I wanted the surface to quickly reflow, and yet not get the lens soft.

[@ChowMien123]

So you just sand it with water and then use a heat gun?

[@Mingloid]

Yes! The heat melts the surface and the scratches disappear. Needs 100% focus, and 2 seconds too long, and it starts to bubble. I've used the Turtle wax headlight Restoration kit. A lot of hard work, and the results don't last a few months

[@Tujuguete]

What temperature?

[@Mingloid]

@@Tujuguete my dial doesn't have a temperature reading. It set it to maximum temp, lowest airflow. The idea is to melt the outer layer quickly, without deforming the rest of the lens. Good luck! It takes a steady hand and 100% attention

[@rolandocastillo3166]

I'm going. To Bay a set of Head Lamps and take care my problem. Is that Easy.......?

[@alex...9327]

@@Mingloid this is way too risky lol might melt right through your plastic. Use the sanding method. Doesnt have to be a kit just get some sand paper and a good compound. And then you have to seal it with uv protection or like you say its gets bad in a couple months. Get a ceramic coating some can last 5+ years for not much money, dont get ceramic wax

[@globaldeception7414]

Sorry. That leaf ruined everything for me

[@Mingloid]

🤣🤣

[@valaus90]

Too risky hahaha if you dont know the right temperature and distance for the heat gun you will be using the best method replacing for a new ones 😂🤣 if you don't f*** the bumper as well

[@user-fd8jv5sf5k]

Cual sería la temperatura, podríais deciros. Necesito hacer lo mismo.

[@thatfeeble-mindedboy]

Polycarbonate… not acrylic, not lexan … big difference.