Failed 2D LED replacement lamp. (with schematic)

[@pauldzim]

Watching you spudge is one of the great joys in life, please don't edit it out 😋

[@jameswyatt1304]

Nothing that fails will fail to teach with you, @bigclive and we've got the same policy. If it's going to ecycle, then it can go as bits when I've extracted its essence. Besides, lotsa good parts. Thanks for another great introspection!

[@madinatore]

the 4 separate pcbs likely allow to cut cost as they can arrange them more economical than having one big ringlike structure.

[@LakeNipissing]

Impressive!! Those LED strips turned into a veritable heating element, and melted the plastic before they went open!

[@paulmartin42]

Yes - the failure was the crackly noise of the plastic not apparently the LEDs

[@mattmoreira210]

LED grill heating element

[@jpdemer5]

Didn't save much energy, did it?

[@efixx]

2D or not 2D that is the question. We are always amazed at how many lamp formats can be re-invented in LED - not always for the better!

[@Fixerbob]

Fabulosly melty moments with Big Clive

[@sparkyprojects]

Yes, the original tube would have been 16W. Apart from 4 sets in parallel, maybe they are in 4 sections to nest on the board during production to reduce waste.

[@maddscientist1644]

You really should look into selling t-shirts Clive. I would love to have one of your logo and/or a spudger tool and I'm sure 10,000 other people agree :D

[@SigEpBlue]

The spudger would have to be Lurid Pink.

[@danp2779]

@@SigEpBlue and yet, it'd still get lost on the bench :(

[@6969Rik]

Clive logo on the front; “I shall pause momentarily” on the back...

[@maicod]

and ... One Moement Pleeze

[@mickeyfilmer5551]

@@6969Rik One mowment pleasth! love it!

[@casimirkonrad9590]

This kind of socket is rarely used in Germany. Normally 4pin-lamps have no starter inside (just two pins for each electrode/cathode) and need an external ballast and a starter (or an electronic ballast), while 2pin-lamps do have a starter inside and need an external, inductive ballast.

[@bigjd2k]

Those resistors are probably there to fool an electronic ballast into thinking there’s a lamp connected (otherwise it would shut down). Being plastic I would have thought having a thermal fuse inside would have been a good idea, to prevent these “slow cooking” failures turning into something worse! (There are 55W 2Ds too!)

[@cremationpete]

bigjd2k there is even self ballast 18w 2D’s! Albeit they are a 16w lamp with a little HF ballast built into the base (2w loss there) and run directly on mains.

[@6F6G]

In the fluorescent tube fitting it's a led lamp with an inductive dropper power supply. If it's used together with two Poundland capacitative dropper 6 watt led lamps the overall power factor should be pretty good.

[@cremationpete]

According to toolstation catalogue, the fern Howard 2D are only for use in HF ballasts (which under-run fluorescent lamps compared to mains frequency) hence the two resistors on each side of the lamp replicating the cathodes of a fluorescent lamp to trick the HF ballast, normally if a cathode goes open circuit the HF ballast cuts out. It would appear that these lamps aren’t designed for use with a simple inductive ballast that would do little to limit the current.

[@JimFortune]

Hey! Some of us tune in for the sound of splintering plastic!

[@glenslick2774]

Maybe one of the reasons the PCBs are split into 4 separate sections is so that they could panelized more efficiently? There would be a lot of wasted PCB area cut out of the middle of an LED track of that shape if it was a single PCB.

[@TheToastPeople]

The original fluorescent version tends to melt up the plastic during a stuck starter!

[@Xenon777_]

That's not true. It is rare for that to happen and often happens when the wrong starters are used or cheap starters.

[@TheToastPeople]

@@Xenon777_ For you maybe, but i have changed many of these 2D bulbs with an internal starter that had got stuck heating the electrodes to the point that the plastic melts and turns yellow to black.

[@Xenon777_]

@@TheToastPeople Well that's on 2 pin 2Ds. That can happen yes but more likely on cheap lamps. The 4 pin 2Ds have a separate starter to a less likely to melt.

[@TheToastPeople]

​@@Xenon777_ Have seen the 4pin version fail the same way, I guess im re-lamping with cheap Chinese junk! Often or not the starter goes brittle in the 4pin version due to its proximity to the lamp, It crumbles in your hand when trying to remove the starter lol.

[@Xenon777_]

@@TheToastPeople I have experienced that too. Starters crumbling and getting stuck. Best thing is get safety starters or Pulsestarters.

[@oldestnerd]

Is the back of the PCB supposed to have a heatsink? It looks shiny like maybe it should.

[@JasperJanssen]

Nah. It’s aluminum PCB for heat dissipation, but the plastic does not allow room for any more heatsnking than that.

[@FrontSideBus]

A decent quality (GE or Philips ) normal 2D lamp will outlast any of these horrid LED replacements tbh...

[@Graham_Langley]

Looked at these replacements when I wanted to change the 16W 2D fitting in the porch here to LED.and wasn't impressed by any of them. Changing the fitting wasn't an option so I ripped the fitting's internals out, made up an ali heatsink/mounting plate, fitted the LEDs from a couple of 5W GU10 bulbs on it and connected them to a constant-current LED driver from CPC.

[@MrPhil6697]

@bigclive you should do a followup video by applying a voltage to each board to test them when you get back to manx!!

[@JasperJanssen]

Or just to all at once, to get the full effect.

[@jrsc01.]

@bigclive We were discussing this spudger at the meet on Sunday, I see what you mean about the terrible cheap copy it is... John

[@ernestglum7688]

It will do your head in a little bit every time you use it until you throw it away, or give it to someone you don't like.

[@Cadwaladr]

I've been interested in your spudger for a while, and thought maybe I could make one by taking a utility knife blade and tempering it back to a dark blue, because I bought a big pack of blades years ago and hadn't come close to using them all, but of course I can't find them now.

[@mattmoreira210]

This is one of those cases where "shamefully simple" would describe the design just fine lmao

[@millomweb]

I disagree !

[@mattmoreira210]

pmailkeey oh well...

[@millomweb]

@@mattmoreira210 A string of 80 LEDS would run off the mains without the resistors.

[@mattmoreira210]

@@millomweb If it was my design, the ballast would be used as a passive PFC choke. The value of the inductance for the ballast must be well known, so there shouldn't be a problem. P.S.: I'm fine with you disagreeing. Everyone is entitled to their opinion.

[@mattakudesu]

Love these videos Clive, very interesting informative and interesting.

[@gustavfenk4021]

Would it be possible to design these LED lamps with the current limiting built in to prevent overheating like this?

[@millomweb]

Yes. Next silly question.

[@CoolerQ]

@bigclivedotcom The letter said he removed the starter entirely. So there was no current limit at all. I'm surprised it worked at all and didn't just instantly pop.

[@stdorn]

the starter does nothing to limit current, as Clive explained it just send the ballast power to the filaments to heat them and then opens again.

[@boonedockjourneyman7979]

Maybe a video about ballasts and starters would be good. Much confusion there for LED people.

[@ELVTechnology]

I think he's done one in the past already?

[@tusdardcart]

Already done one a while ago

[@briandeschene8424]

Boonedock Journeyman Here you go... kzbin.info/www/bejne/p33EdWRnga6HmLM kzbin.info/www/bejne/npvTmaunbtOIqKM

[@AClarke2007]

Just fitted one like this to replace the old CFL; didn't last long though. The instructions are really ambiguous so make you feel a fool because they initially outline the fitting procedure with a basic flow diagram but don't define whether you just leave out the starter or need to fit it in a circuit which doesn't use a starter. I fitted it with the old cfl starter still in place. Through the plastic I could see the resistors Clive points out glowing bright orange and now I have a 1W LED light! What have I done wrong?

[@SianaGearz]

Would buy Clive's branded high-quality spudger.

[@millomweb]

1:48 "Not the lamp's fault" - Oh yes it is ! If they can't be bothered to put a resistor or something to drop the current, it's the lamp design fault. I guess I have similar issue with fluo tubes - new tubes the ends go black and the tubes fail in a few days. Put old tubes in and they're absolutely fine.

[@stdorn]

The original ballast is the current limiter it is designed to put out 28w, if you run 28w into a 11w bulb it will fail. Not the bulb fault. Adding more resistance would mean it would be underpowered when run from the correct ballast.

[@millomweb]

@@stdorn No - if the power consumption is under or equal to the lower power ballast, the ballast is effectively ignored and the lamp would work wither either ballast or even none at all.

[@stdorn]

@@millomweb if that were the case the manufacturer wouldn't say don't use with higher wattage ballasts it wouldn't matter according to you. Those 1.8 ohm resistors aren't going to drop hardly anything if you take 220v fully Rectify it and filter it you can multiply the 220 by 1.414 to come up with the DC RMS voltage which would be 311v divided by 24 LEDs in series you would be running these LEDs at about 13 volts a piece they would burn out so quick you wouldn't even see them light. If I'm missing something here please explain what would drop the excess voltage if no ballast were used?

[@thephantom1492]

I repaired some DMX lights at work. The leds passed the low current test, but failed at rated current. I think it is due to a bond wire failure and thermal effect. This might be the same issue...

[@nrdesign1991]

Same thing happened to white LED lights at work. They lasted a while in the field, then started flickering. We tracked it back to bonding wire failure. It could be tested and provoked by heating and cooling the LED. We had to temperature-cycle certain lights for 24 hours to ensure they were good, while also looking for a replacement manufacturer for our LEDs. We ended up with switching this light to Cree LEDs, but someone in the chain missed the binning (probably only looking for the best price only), making the lights appear somewhat funky with the many different colours. Oh what fun we had.

[@electroniquepassion]

👍very interresting thank you👍❤️🔥✅⚡️

[@mickellis8747]

What spudger do you normally use Clive?

[@bigclivedotcom]

iSesamo.

[@mickellis8747]

Hay Clive, Yea I sort of figured that out. Dumb question. Thanks

[@ketas]

i didn't know they make such ones without current limiting!

[@Okie-00-Spool]

Just curious, when you're testing the individual LEDs with the probes, are you just using the continuity setting?

[@bigclivedotcom]

Yes. It works with single chip LEDs.

[@neiltheplayer]

so, he said he removed the starter and I'm assuming he connected directly to the mains. Did this cause the failure?

[@bigclivedotcom]

The starter does not limit current. It's used to preheat the electrodes in a conventional fluorescent tube.

[@neiltheplayer]

@@bigclivedotcom thanks

[@rimmersbryggeri]

Maybe you could explain some time how the ballast for a car xenon lamp works.

[@barrygreengrass3379]

Clive what the name of the spudger you like to use please

[@bigclivedotcom]

iSesamo

[@willrobbinson]

I thought 2D was well past in history as it should be now more led type replacements

[@lxOFWGKTAxl]

If you mind me asking Clive, what type of meter were you using in this video?

[@bigclivedotcom]

The one I have here is a UNI-T UT210E

[@braelinmichelus]

Why would anyone think that putting a lamp in a fixture with a _higher_ wattage rating than the lamp would make it dimmer or use less electricity? If you put a lamp in a fixture with a _lower_ rating than the lamp, _than_ it would be dimmer. On the other hand, the exact opposite would happen if you put a lamp with _too low_ of a wattage rating for the fixture. Driving the lamp at a higher voltage caused the current to increase too high, causing the wattage to surpass the lamps rating, causing higher energy dissipation, overheating the LEDs and cooking the lamp to death.

[@Orxenhorf]

Bad design that the part that needs limited current (the lamp) doesn't have the current limiting in it.

[@DVSProductions]

Well in theory the ballast is supposed to do the limiting. But if the limit is way too high for the specific lamp it will die

[@millomweb]

That kind of common sense clearly doesn't exist.

[@jpdemer5]

They saved at least 20 cents by leaving it out.

[@maicod]

so the clicking sounds of old TL lamps (flashing on/off until it stabilizes) is the bimetallic strip in the starter bending off and on to its contact point ?

[@bigclivedotcom]

Yes. They made a distinct noise as the contacts reopened.

[@maicod]

yes I vividly remember that

[@Graham_Langley]

The mechanism of the glow starter is a bit more complicated than a simple bimetal switch. Instead of me typing out have a look at the WP entry: [Edited to remove revision scar] en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluorescent_lamp#Starting

[@maicod]

@GraHam Langley thanks that was interesting. btw I accidentally saw your reply as youtube didn't notify me ! Naughty youtube :(

[@seannot-telling9806]

But we like dramatic and I think Clive does also. Speaking of dramatic Clive has not blown anything up lately.

[@stephentaylforth4731]

Yep big clive definitely needs more chocolate rabbits and explosive charges.....

[@Furiends]

I absolutely hate the "stand in" replacement led lights. They waste time and money making things "compatible" in absolutely no sense of the word except some false comfort. On the one hand the idea of reusing the fixture makes some sense except you have to replace a bunch of pieces and rewire it. The fixture doesn't need reflectors since they are in the LED chips so it sticks off the ceiling when it doesn't need to. Many of the lights are super dangerous with live AC sticking out on an end. As the user intuitively thought you could make the light dimmer using a lower watt rating. You know what else LEDs can do? Dim with a dimmer which can be built into the fixture. You can buy an entire light fixture that's pretty gorgeous for $35 dollars with LEDs space out nicely giving a super consistent look and flat on the ceiling instead of sticking out more than an inch since the reflectors are in the chips all it needs are a diffuser. Using aluminum backed strips that screw on the board would make the most sense if you wanted the ability to replace them. Except I haven't seen anyone do that yet. Plus if they are using isolated DC (which they should be) you wouldn't even need to turn the thing off to switch the LEDs out. Not that you'd need to very often. I noticed recently a very nice LED light fixture with good SMPS components seemed pretty durable except in the usual Chinese way a few "unneeded" components were left out including the surge suppression and the fixture got fried from a moderate surge. So its things like which turn people off from the idea of having the light embedded in the fixture.

[@hans429]

Wats the difference between a Bitchrectefier and a Bridgerectumfrier?

[@andygozzo72]

i bet if the led wiring was altered to 2 parallel banks of 2 in series , it'd be ok on a higher wattage fitting?

[@andygozzo72]

i've looked on the fern howard website and it says their led 2d replacements are only for fittings with electronic hf ballast ...

[@andygozzo72]

they list a version suitable for 28w fitting,

[@andersvandegevel8355]

@bigclivedotcom working as a projects sparky for (herp-derp) Council, I get to see the occasional interesting LED replacement lamp. I have a couple of Kosnic 2D 4-pin ones, which I thought cheap and nasty until I saw the plastic nastiness you dissected here xD One thing interesting to note with these is, as they are designed to run on 230v directly, the maintenance sparkies (using the term 'sparky' VERY loosely) tend to bung them right in and fook off. Now these Kosnic ones (reclaimed during refit >.>) run fine like that, but, stick the power meter (not a flickery HOPI, but one can't have everything) and you find it's sucking around 3x the rated 87mA... ooer missus, what's going on here? Quite simply, the maintenance 'sparky' hasn't removed the cap from the control gear... I keep meaning to send you some odd bits to dissect, I'll include one of these (when I remember xD).

[@MegaWayneD]

So... 11 watts LED fitting vs 16 watts fluorescent lamp? Hardly seems worth it.

[@AngDavies]

It'll be brighter, more than you'd expect, and should require less maintenance if it's well designed (if)

[@MegaWayneD]

@@AngDavies that's a big "if"! More often than not fluorescent lamps seem to outlast LED replacements, especially in less common fitments like this.

[@AngDavies]

I know led lighbulbs can have reliability issues, but this is more down to poor thermal management/crappy electronics and less the leds themselves. My comment about brightness was based on personal experience. catalog.tungsram.com/lamp/led-lamps/2d-retrofit/f=2d-28w-magnetic-retrofit/b=2d/d=3/?r=emea They're specced at 128 lumens/watt way more than is easily achievable with a fluorescent My halls in university replaced the entire hallway with them, and god they were so much brighter. In large part because fluorescents tend to dim over time, which LEDs have a tendency not to do much if at all, they just fail. I've had crappy LEDs fail on me many times. I agree, it's a plague, and upon disassembly the cause is invariably shoddy design. But I've also had well made units last 5+ years of heavy use, in moist air, with no dimming, all the while sipping power. Trouble is it's impossible to tell the difference without buying it and taking it apart...at which point you can't take it back. The only solution I've found is to go local- find a local electrical supply shop with a good reputation and see what they're selling. Their customers are on average much more technically savvy than say on Amazon etc. (electricians) who have a financial interest in installing reliable things, otherwise they get complaints. Trade shops live and die on reputation. Probably the same reason Poundland electronics are surprisingly reliable/well made, despite the price, more so than anything you can get online- they really can't afford the returns/lawsuits. It's worked so far for me- bought a five star luminary from amazon. Fails within six months due to overheating. Go to the trade shop, get a light that's five pound cheaper from a brand I've never heard of, but that's very popular in the trade, going strong after years. Disassembling, and the difference in "skookumness" is apparent even to my mother. Big Clive should really do a teardown of one of the more well made units (trade ones) the difference is night and day

[@millomweb]

Depends how brown you like your toast.

[@millomweb]

@@johncoops6897 I'm running 3 45W (~100W) Asda LED bulbs - and they've outlasted incandescent.

[@stevenA44]

So if everything checks out, will it still work or no?

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Great video clive

[@nfc153]

"inox" = stainless, generally not the hardest of steels. While Victorinox have found a reasonable mix for their alloy, it seems the spudger manufacturer hasn't bothered. At least it was cheap. I hope it was cheap.

[@RFC3514]

1:59 - Stress on the first syllable (i.e., SEHsamo, not suhSAmo). As in Ali Baba's "open Sesame".

[@medes5597]

He knows. It's deliberate.

[@JendaLinda]

What happens if you connect this kind of lamp to the electronic ballast?

[@xxycom8963]

What befuddles me is why go through all the rigamarole of emulating a fluorescence tube with ballast etc? Why would a full wave rectifier even without filtering and a series resistor for each leg of LEDs work?

[@1973retrorabbit]

Emulating the fluorescent lamp means it's a direct swap without having to change either the guts in the fitting or the whole fitting, so it's a simple lamp swap for an end user/ homeowner. Using the original ballast inside the fitting works as it's effectively a resistive dropper. Although it would light without the rectifier and smoothing capacitor, it would flicker at mains frequency, the series resistors in each leg is primarily used as a fuse with fairly minimal currently limiting as a bonus. They're connected to the input side of the lamp and aren't on the output/ LED strip side of the circuit.

[@theskett]

The ballast is an *inductive* dropper (so, 180 degrees from Big Clive's default :-) but otherwise should work fine - if sized appropriately :-)

[@asamitchell7948]

16w and 28w 2d lamps have the same sockets they are eaither 2 pin or 4 pin but the socket is the same size

[@Mark1024MAK]

The details on the Toolstation site look straightforward to me, see www.toolstation.com/fern-howard-led-2d-4-pin-lamp/p95733 where it does say which LED version is designed to replace which CFL. It also makes it clear that these are designed for HF fittings. HF fittings are the type with integral electronic circuits rather than traditional iron core (inductive) chokes. So as the person that supplied the lamp to Clive says that they removed the starter, I don’t think that the fitting they have would be suitable for any of this type of LED replacement lamps. As fittings with starters use traditional iron core (inductive) chokes...

[@JoseSilveira-newhandleforYT]

I'm guessing that, if you connect all four led PCBs in series, it will light up safely, independent of having a ballast or not.

[@mixerfistit5522]

3:53 apparently Clive's "OK" sounds like "OK emy" as it sets off Huawei's crap voice assistant

[@28YorkshireRose12]

This has got my interest aroused now! - I have two used SOX replacement LED lamps. Essentially, they are a direct substitution for the normal yellow SOX lamp. I asked the guy "Do you leave the control gear in situ, or do you rewire the luminaire (lantern) so as bypass the ballast and igniter?" . He said to bypass them, however, given that these are second hand, I first tried them in a normal b22 lamp socket. One lit up for a couple of minutes, then dimmed to virtually nothing. The other didn't light at all, until you gently press on several of the LEDs (definitely faulty), but I am wondering now if the first one should have been connected via the ballast, like the lamp you have dismantled here? On another note, or could that be "dulcet tone"? I have noticed of late that my four kittens (born in February, this year) have taken a definite liking to our Clive. They sit close to my Hi-Fi speakers with a look of contentment and ecstasy about them. As soon as the video ends, they're off to play again. . . I think Clive might secretly be a cat whisperer! 😾🐈 🐯 😹

[@jakmak1199]

Maybe the kittens like his whiskers too 😻

[@tyronenelson9124]

You would have thought that current limiting would have been built into the led fitting itself regardless of what fitting it went into, i don't get it.

[@metricstormtrooper]

I am sure you fully realize that Superinox is shortened Italian for stainless steel.

[@millomweb]

What about Victorinox ?

[@BensWorkshop]

I wonder what would happen if you ran it with the correct ballast.

[@petehiggins33]

So, what is the purpose of the common mode choke?

[@bigclivedotcom]

Probably electrical noise suppression.

[@petehiggins33]

@@bigclivedotcom Er, what electrical noise would that be then?

[@Graham_Langley]

I wondered about that too.

[@pshq]

Do anyone recognize the logo thing printed on the brown PCB? Is it a logo of the manufacturer of the PCB? I've seen it on a pirate video game cartridge PCB and initally thought it's the secret sign of the pirates, but now I'm not that sure about it...

[@raymondmucklow3793]

Must have ben warm light, them cool lights would have froze the leds.😁 well done again sir.

[@cmyanmar13]

Can you do a teardown of an infrared thermometer?

[@cherrieaulait]

Ah nobody likes to be working away, hard at it, only to suddenly look down to find they've got a shitty spudger... well some might? Not for me to judge! 😂😂😂

[@hgbugalou]

Seems like it would have been trivial to add fail safe circuitry here. When dealing with an ambiguous socket type, manufacturers really should offer this.

[@LeePorte]

Humn.... From memory the centre of both the 16w and 28w lamps was the same, however the 16w was about 2/3rds the size, so you couldn't fit a 28w lamp in a 16w fitting.

[@Graham_Langley]

IIRC there's some form of keying on the base but I've no longer got any 2D fittings here to check on.

[@LeePorte]

@@Graham_Langley I just can't quite remember (which will bug me all day), G series lamps I can still remember. I was in the lighting industry years ago.

[@etjason1]

Clive could you put a link to the spuger you use at home not this one.

[@jrsc01.]

Hi the spudger Clive uses is an iSesamo, made in Italy. Approx £5 comes with a smaller one for keyring too. www.amazon.co.uk/iSesamo-genuine-spudger-repair-opening/dp/B00OBJO6PQ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=158Z6UB1QV9Q2&keywords=isesamo&qid=1566434842&s=gateway&sprefix=Ise%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-1

[@poellot]

I have to say that the manufacturer should tell you what fitting to use it in right on the lamp, not tell you what not to use it in. Maybe you only have three option and by telling you not to with the other 2 that only leaves one. But thats silly not to put the wattage of the fixtures it CAN be used in right on the lamp. Telling someone what NOT to do, makes so many people think "that sounds like a challenge". Or "why cant i." If it simply stated "use in 16 watt fixtures ONLY. " i bet less people would disregard this.

[@millomweb]

I've a light marked 'Max 40W' but I've put a 60W bulb in it. The reason I can do this is that the lamp is unusually air-cooled ! (i.e. is outdoors ;) )

[@stonedsavage7814]

Could you pleade jump (bridge) the connections for a video? It would be nice to watch

[@Azlehria]

Fluorescent-replacement LED lamp was so confused it thought it was incandescent.

[@mattmoreira210]

That lamp's shape reminds me of Pretzels. Not the kind I would like to eat, though!

[@KACPER050599]

Maybe electronic ballast caused this problem?

[@serbianwarcriminal5686]

very interesting video

[@God-CDXX]

i bet it was bright

[@Mark1024MAK]

Like a star!

[@crazygeorgelincoln]

Im no fan of them there d type light fittings . Nice to see another flaw in their design.

[@_a.z]

The power rating compatibly could have been improved with a higher impedance instead of relying on the inductor.

[@Dark_Ronius]

I recently bought a 2 pin LED lamp, and the instructions are adamant that being a 2 pin lamp I should swap the starter as it is a "magnetic lamp". However, I've taken the lamp apart a few times and cannot see the old starter, which according to the instructions should be nearly identical and easy to replace. It is also adamant that, if there is no starter, I need a 4 pin lamp even though mine is definitely a 2 pin lamp. The bulb works fine for now, but I'm definitely worried it might end up fried like the bulb in this video. I was wondering if anyone has any idea on what I should do, as Google is helpfully obtuse on the issue? Thank you 😊 I thought I'd add, the box for these bulbs has incredibly "helpful" terms such as "no rewiring needed - straight retrofit". Which as a layman I took as it will swap with the old bulb 😂

[@bigclivedotcom]

A 2 pin version of that lamp has the starter built in. It's the four pin version that has an external starter.

[@Dark_Ronius]

@@bigclivedotcom thank you for the quick reply! I'll leave it as it is for now, if any meltage does occur happy to send it in 😂

[@MD4564]

Wouldn't be cheaper for a fuse than resisters ?

[@bigclivedotcom]

Double feature. Current limiting and fusability.

[@kilrahvp]

Or the lamp didn't actually fail but the owner stopped using it when they noticed it was half burning...

[@Fuzzems]

If you replace a 28 W fluorescent lamp with a LED one which has a note on it, NOT to use it in a 28 W fitting; why use it??

[@Mike_5]

Because it fits the fitting? sometimes stupidity wins

[@threeMetreJim]

Probably because most people, for some reason, don't have time to RTFM...

[@francesconicoletti2547]

Because it might not be only a 28w fitting. Common light fixtures don’t work like that. Most people have experience of fixtures that can accept multiple wattages. The power rating on the fixtures is usually the maximum power of the lamp that it can provide, not the only power.

[@CJonestheSteam72]

From an idiots standpoint, I put a 5w LED where a 60w was before then you'd figure there shouldn't be an issue. Obviously direct mains compared to these fittings are different but it's counter intuitive that underpowered bulbs would be an issue, see also 12v MR16s converted to LED

[@paulmunro3050]

I bought one from Screwfix, broke in 48hrs. Replacement has lasted months however.

[@stumccabe]

Just so you know Clive, the Americans use the verb "pry" where we use "prise" - they might think you can't speak English!

[@kbhasi]

Ah, thanks for the explanation!

[@RadioJonophone]

Here in the UK to pry is to be intrusive, to look into someone else's affairs.

[@TonyDig100]

Pity they didn't use a more sophisticated power supply to avoid this issue.

[@phonotical]

They replaced the cfls with these in my building, they're dull as all hell, some of the covers are nice, look like they should spread the light... But they don't, so they installed two 😂

[@simonhopkins3867]

Pmsl. That's brilliant ;-)

[@phonotical]

@@simonhopkins3867 update: one burnt out already and the Palace smells of burnt plastic

[@ghostlee900]

Hi bigclive. Would it be possible if you could do a tutorial of a pwm car ht coil driver iv looked alot on KZbin for one but never really had a good tutorial on one and I know you are the man for a well detailed video

[@crazygeorgelincoln]

eBay sell a potted coil with pulse circuit inside. Clive got one and zaped himself with it.

[@ghostlee900]

@@crazygeorgelincoln would you be able to provide a link to one as I cant find them

[@crazygeorgelincoln]

@@ghostlee900 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC15V-to-40000V-Pulse-high-voltage-arc-generator-Boost-transformer-Ignition-Coil-/153346151131

[@CubbyTech]

I still don't understand how you can 'push' more current to a bulb - doesn't it just use what it uses? Silly to design in such a way and go to all the trouble to indicate NOT to use it in a 28 or 38 watt fitting.

[@DanafoxyVixen]

im starting to stock up on 2D fluorescent light bulbs when i find them.. they are really starting to get hard to find :/

[@millomweb]

Why do they make these things so complicated ? Why not run 80 LEDs in series across 240V dc with a capacitor and be done with ?

[@nosaltiesandrooshere7488]

👍

[@mavos1211]

Sorry I haven’t really seen many of your videos recently Clive so i have not been around to like and comment. I just haven’t been in a good place lately But I’m sure I’ll snap out of it eventually.

[@twocvbloke]

You'd think they'd have made it with an SMPS, rather than hope that the fitting it went into was the right one, not a smart design on the manufacturer's part there... :P

[@jacquelinemnich7503]

Get some tin snips and trim your bloody feeler gauge , you have till the tool comes to a end and that's a few trims

[@DanafoxyVixen]

With the 4pin base, I have to wonder what would happen if this bulb was stuck in a fitting that had a electronic ballast fitted

[@andygozzo72]

i've looked on the fern howard website, it says these are for hf ballast ONLY !

[@alankingvideo]

You can’t win with these 2D fittings. If you fit the non ballast type of LED fitting you can Guarantee if it fails someone will try and replace it with a fluorescent. If you fit the ballast compliment type and it fails someone will try and replace it with the non ballast type led.

[@DrGreenGiant]

Thought you were going to plug it in via a capacitive dropper or something, sad face

[@bigclivedotcom]

I'm not at my workshop right now. Otherwise I would have roughed something up.

[@DrGreenGiant]

@@bigclivedotcom ah yes forgot you were over in Europe ;-) Hope you're having fun!

[@webchimp]

Those uncropped wires may be going into a plastic housing but they are right next to a nice aluminium backed PCB

[@jackthomson6379]

Hi Clive!

[@LaylaSpellwind]

Clive, it's late, early... go to bed. =D

[@stonedsavage7814]

What about you? Its only half 3 in the morning here in the uk.

[@LaylaSpellwind]

Aye, Scotland here. Half 4 now... Fortunately I was only joking, I'm happy that Clive is up late, means I have a new video to watch, even at this hour.