How to change Toyota valve stem oil-seals | 1ZZ-FE | Part 2 | Oil Burning🔥Experiments | Episode 10

[@gratefuldale117]

I was crossing my fingers right at the end and cheered a little when she hit! Nicely done, Dave.

[@Chris-yy7qc]

2:00 No. Every revolution the position of the colored links will change. Thats because the chain needs to rotate. Otherwise a certain chain roller would always meet the exact same sprocket tooth again. Which would be bad for even wear. The marks are just for installation. The same goes for timing belts btw.

[@J1SMOKES]

Can't believe how detailed these videos are. I wish you were working on my truck. Great job !!

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks!

[@kingmanL7309]

very interesting indeed. as 1&4, 2&3 pistons are the same position respectively, I think we can do put ropes into two cylinders each rotation of the crankshaft and can replace 8 valves

[@802Garage]

Use each end of the rope! Hahaha.

[@dws2313]

Dave, I love your humble way of getting things done! Great job!

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thank you, DW!

[@alberttibbets6567]

Good photography and explanation of what you were doing. Following this series with interest. Thanks.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thank you, Albert!

[@rocknrollermann]

Thank you . FANTASTIC camera work. I've never seen this done . I learned . I hope you dont die or anything so i can see the results. Oh, i guess , i could die... dont take too long on those results.. yah never know.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks :-) ... and hopefully we'll both make it through till the next one ;-)

[@ozarkrider]

I really appreciate that you take the time to show CLEAR detailed images of what you are doing. So many videos out there have good info and mean well but you can barely see what they are doing. Thank you for taking the time to make that quality difference!

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thank you for the kind comment!

[@MarzNet256]

The yellow/orange marks on timing chain only line up with timing marks on the camshafts and crankshaft/pulley during the initial installation of the timing chain. After that they don't line up anymore with timing marks. Use can use original marks on chain when reinstalling it. Also, no antiseize on these Denso plugs.

[@anthonyz7023]

I also concur

[@fernandohood5542]

First thing I noticed.

[@billcowhig5739]

If you keep turning the crankshaft and noticing where the single and double yellow links end up every 360 degrees, you will find that they “eventually” come back to the installation position. For my 2000 Tacoma 2.4 L L4 2WD 2RZ-FE engine, “eventually” = 11. It gets back to the initial install position every 11 times the crankshaft turns 360 degrees.

[@MarzNet256]

@@billcowhig5739 That is correct.

[@jimmartin8579]

this brings back some good (although trying) memories of replacing the valve stem seals on my old suzuki esteem. it was worth it though - cleaned up the blow by and smoke out the exhaust. Sympathise with the struggle of getting the springs and retainers set again lol...I did it the long way though with taking off accessories, belt etc. changed the belt, water pump at the same time though. So depends what you want to get done with this job. well done getting through it alone

[@C-M-E]

I love that valve keeper trick. It's been quite the while since I've done them, but I'll be sure to remember that for next time!

[@TheDeadMan3848]

Great video Dave! Can’t wait for part 3. I’m thinking the valve seals may help a bit, but rings and drain holes are the biggest culprit, just my opinion tho...

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks! and I'm leaning that way too ;-)

[@HUBBABUBBADOOPYDOOP]

*@**48:13** You're worried about consumption?* Look closely. Imagine presenting at ER covered in blood? You're worried about internal bleeding, take care of the *_external_* hemorrhaging first. Spray bottle (from a chemical cleaner, glass cleaner, 409, etc.) 1 gal jug (milk, OJ, etc.) 1/4 cup of ULTRA dish detergent 1 cup kerosene 1 cup conventional ATF HOT water till full. Mix gently before and during use Spray mist from top down, Use up the entire gallon. Start engine, idle 10 minutes, heat OFF. Engine still running, carefully rinse it off, go for a drive to steam off & dry. At least now the valve cover seals are new, that was most of your leak. These engines, and a few more like this- are originally used in propane fueled forklifts. High, extended revving, LP is way "drier" than gasoline (which is just a very light oil) so the oil gets loaded with gasoline, thinning it, making it more combustible and more gummy, clogging up parts that rely on fluid pressure to work- (cam phasers, lifters) and tight tolerances like ring lands get packed with gunk.

[@michaelalberson126]

I absolutely love your channel as you are a excellent very professional presenter and you explaining detail as you go I am excited to see if this stops the oil consumption issue and hopefully for you it does.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks so much 😊

[@Glenn_123]

Great video! Appreciate your time that you put into this. Lot of work.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks, Glenn. Yeah, think it took 3 times longer to edit than doing the actual job!

[@Pallidus_Rider]

Excellent video for a Saturday afternoon 👍

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Much appreciated!

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Previous video in this series: Is the Engine Toast? - Valve seal replacement part 1: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZmrUlqZmmNahd7M Next video in this series: Did New Valve Stem seals stop the oil burning: kzbin.info/www/bejne/faKWm2Wobdukeac Entire oil burning experiment playlist: kzbin.info/aero/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj

[@orman2222]

Although you recorded this two years ago, I want to thank you for your service. I am going to attempt to replace my valve stem seals on my 2005 Toyota Camry LE. The seals have been bad on it for several years now, and I have been ignoring it. Cold start smokes every time I start my Camry. Changed my catalytic converter exhaust header, and two of my exhaust valves are coated with oil 😂😂😂😂 I have ordered the valve stem seals and have all the necessary tools for the job. I am just not looking forward to doing this. I tend to take a lot of time doing my car maintenance. It'll probably take me a week and a whole lot of suffering. I am also not as confident as most DIY home mechanics.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I hope your repair goes flawlessly!

[@chloeleedow7250]

That tool was worth every penny Dave 😂👌

[@alfredomarquez9777]

YES, of course... BUT, in a pinch, just using some "Molybdenum Assembly Lube" to hold the keepers in place, will help enormously to avoid them dislodging fron their grooves on the valve stem. Also placing a piece of polyethylene bag on top of the stem when pushing down the new seal, will prevent the sharp groove edges from causing any tearing of the delicate seal lip...

[@lupegalvan9993]

Alright! Nice job. Hope this helps. I was one of the lucky few that changing my oil to a slightly thicker oil and changing the pcv made a big difference of burning 1 quart every 600 miles to 1 quart every 2,000 miles now.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks. Glad to hear you found something that worked!

[@JT-dx1qk]

Had an old Chevy where valve seals were gone , didn't help oil burning whatsoever when I replaced them. Stuck oil rings on every engine overhaul I ever did. Use a 3 stone hone on the bores , clean the ring lands good , and re-ring

[@oldpolak5203]

That's exactly what happend to my Honda civic . Take head of and take out pistons trough oil pan . Make sure to clean the tiny holes in the piston oil ring groove

[@GainingDespair]

Genuinely expected the motor to be a good bit cleaner after all the additives. I know the valve cover isn't always a good representation of the motor, it gets limited oil coverage but still .. Either the motor was horribly sludged, or the frequent new oil, and additives did very little. I was simply expecting it to be very clean after the other videos of this car I seen.

[@steveobrien8792]

I completely agree. I've seen where people pull the cover an you see the dark chocolate color like he has and then they run Royal purple for 3k - 5k mile and they pull the cover again and its a nice bronze color. All of the previous videos I was thinking that it was going to be a really nice Bronze if he ever pulled the cover. I guess I was wrong. That said I had a Celica with this motor in it and nothing I ever did made a difference with the oil consumption. I even ran seafoam in it at every oil change and ran it the full life of the oil for like a year straight and it never made a difference.

[@patrickviens9285]

That long cranking at the end made me nervous. After all those long hours of great work, you don't want to bend some valves haha. But, once it's start running, seems to run fine.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Made me nervous too, Patrick ... it wouldn't have been the first time I put something back together wrong :-)

[@anthonyr5869]

Just the fuel lines getting pressure and delivering fuel

[@alfredomarquez9777]

​@@FamilyFriendlyDIY An easy check before "Firing-On" the engine, is to carefully rotate the crankshaft by hand two full revolutions without reinstalling the sparkplugs... if it rotates smoothly without any hard spots, you are not hitting any valve against its piston!

[@bronzemaxellwg3098]

i did the exact samething for my 2az-fe when i saw blue smoke came out of my tail pipe after sat for a few hours. cost me about less than $100 in parts and 2 days of work.

[@jrm163]

How many miles please? And does it help? Thanks!

[@steveturner1988]

that's great...I am going to do the same thing. Any words of wisdom?

[@naturalfireentheogen7405]

I really appreciated the break with the Birds

[@Highway_Chronicles]

Dude, you rock. This video taught me a ton. The rope trick is new and I’m going to give it a try. I’ve used compressed air before and was overly paranoid about dropping a valve and just pulled the head and valves and cleaned everything up while it was off. My car desperately needs them done, I just hit 240,000 miles and I’m pretty sure they are toast. I use my car as a my source of income, and the longer it’s down the more money I lose and I can’t afford to be missing work. I’m thinking I can do a chemtool soak while doing the seals and killing 2 birds with one stone. Right now I burn 2 quarts every 500 miles and plain on doing this in a week or so. I will update you and let you know what the improvement is after I get it finished. You earned my subscription, thanks for the video.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks, and thanks for keeping us posted!

[@MilanBerk]

I am waiting for the result. Thank you for nice video.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Me too! Thanks for watching, Milan!

[@sirishwark]

Hi Dave, big fan and follower. A small belated suggestion, simultaneously, you should've also done the tappet setting which can help in reducing oil consumption.

[@Rob-fx2dw]

Interesting and informative and educational stuff. Also what a beautiful bluebird. You are so lucky to have them visit.

[@donhiebert3750]

The timing chain marks line up on timing chain installation and then on regular intervals after that. If you want to see them line up again, turn the engine through a few dozen revolutions and they will eventually.

[@robertsimpson7113]

Seal the other way up when reinstalling the retainer so that the small end keeps the keepers in place!.... or as you did, get the right tool.

[@cal48koho]

For someone who claims not to be a mechanic.............................!! what else can we call you? Very interesting and well done and very very scientific approach. I can't wait for the next video. I sorta think that pulling the head and doing the seals on a clean work bench would have been quicker and less likely to lose things. With the head off you could pull out the pistons and really get a look at the internals, rings, lands etc.. not much more work. Thank goodness for the nice vertical 4 cylinder. A V6 would be a thrash.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks Hugh! ... I have a feeling we'll have the head off soon :-)

[@ProjectCarTV]

Good video

[@alfredomarquez9777]

Hi! There is a good couple of tips you seem unaware of: -One of the best ways to 'keep the keepers' on the valve stem, is to apply a little quantity of black "Moly Assembly Lube", that is a paste that is totally compatible with engine oil, and that paste is enough to hold the keepers in place during the reassembly... ANOTHER GOOD 'preventive' tip: When installing the new valve seals, you don't want the sharp edges of the grooves at the valve stems, that are the places that catch the keepers in place... THUS, place a thin piece of polyethylene from a plastic bag over the valve stem tip and keep it there when pressing the new valve seals over the valve stem tip and grooves, so that when you push down the rubber seals, the piece of polyethylene bag prevents the sharp groove edges from SCRATCHING and tearing the all-important lip of the valve seal... That small piece of polyethylene material is of no consequence at all, but could save the all important seal lip! ... again, using a dab of Moly Assembly Lube helps to lubricate the valve seal lip, the camshaft bearing caps and lobes during the brief but still considerable time during the start, where there is still no oil pressure and no oil flow to the top of the engine. I have used "Sta-Lube®" brand of Assembly lube with Moly, but any brand will do. Another tip: Even with a "working" PCV system, the quantity of fine oil droplets and oil mist carried into all the Air Inlet Tract, will form a lot of gunk and carbon inside the Throttle body, the MAP (or MAPT) sensor, along the intake manifold, and the intake ports and valves... So I recommend you to add a good "Catch-Can" to reduce that carbon accumulation. And because no Catch-Can is 100% effective, you would clean all the Air Inlet tract every year or so. WHEN DOING THAT CLEANING, TAKE A GOOD LOOK AT THE INTAKE VALVE STEMS by illuminating the valve stem and looking through the intake ports... if you see any "brownish" color on any valve stem, that is an indication that the corresponding valve seal is leaking oil down... That is how I discovered a bad leaking seal on the intake valve on Cylinder number-1 in my wive's VW Jetta, thad was keeping the sparkplug oily after just about 600 miles of use, snd tgat even caused a "Cyl-1 Misfire Code". That engine has a too simple and too short and direct PCV recirculation path, that gets the inlet tract VERY dirty, and deserves an annual reclean by taking off the intake manifold, and by using a nylon brush to spin with a hand drill, and lots of carb solvent... and it is an older engine design with only 8 valves and port fuel injection, but the excessive liquid oil droplets do get into the inlet tract, and form a lot of carbon inside the intake ports and on top of the valve hat... BEST WISHES from Mexico.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for the tips Alfredo!

[@nm-qt2hb]

Very nicely done. The seal will help along with the new gasket if they were leaking. Good luck.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks 👍

[@briandean2014]

Now I know this video was made 7 months ago but just for future reference if you ever use anti seize on something that needs to be torqued to a certain spec just remember the anti seize will add 20% more force so you have to account for that extra force

[@mhsuitor2009]

Should have just kept turning it until the timing marks lined up. I’d be curious to know how many turns it took.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Now you've got me wondering as well!

[@billcowhig5739]

I was also curious, so took the time to turn the crankshaft long enough to seen that there was a pattern. Took 11 x 360 degrees to get back to initial alignment. But mine is a different engine. 2000 Toyota Tacoma 2RZ-FE with single input camshaft chain sprocket and single crankshaft sprocket. Just look for the pattern. It makes sense that it would eventually return, right?

[@paulrobson1443]

Wow epic. Love that tool much quicker

[@stevenbauer8033]

Did you try rocking the valve stems after the old seal was removed to check for valve guid wear? If the valve guides are worn, the new seals won't last long.

[@alfredomarquez9777]

EXCELLENT ADVICE !!!

[@mghuertas]

Same for me looooong cranking after soaking the pistons with chemtool i take the injector fuse crank it again then take out the sparks plugs to check them was dry put the fuse. When the engine finally starts it takes likes 30 secs with pressing the gas pedal to normal idling. It was flooded with gas or the chemtool at the cylinders.

[@TheBangBang04]

Ok here we go! I've been waiting to see this one!

[@wisdomoftime549]

Right before your next oil change let B12 chem dip sit in the cylinders over night do this right after a drive so the pistons are hot this will make the chem dip really break up any carbon and seep into the rings if all else fails there's nothing short of a rebuild to fix this issue my 2000 Celica is the same way went through 2 catalytic converters already cause they got plugged

[@daveschidlmeier6425]

The Catalytic converter can be cleaned as Scotty Kilmer states on his site.. By starting with a 3/8 to 1/2 tank of fuel and add a gallon of lacquer thinner. Then drive the vehicle 150 miles at highway speeds like 2500 rpms or 70 mph. Apon return remove codes with scanner or disconnect the battery. The converter will clean out because the the exhaust will be hot enough to burn the carbon off the screens in the Catalytic converter . I've used this method twice on my oil consuming equinox 2.4. It passes our stringent state inspection. It Works

[@wisdomoftime549]

@@daveschidlmeier6425 I just cut them out the engine is in need of a rebuild and straight pipe noises lol

[@chloeleedow7250]

You are so patient my friend 😂

[@wmsbrum]

Wow, I've never had the needle nose fail with these seals, lol! Those are some pretty cool tricks, I use the valve spring removal tools...

[@MosesJesusElijah]

I just saw a vid on a guy using that tool and I think it would have made the job a lot easier 👍🏻

[@muneyoz101]

The right tools always makes everything easy, im actually enjoying this amazement.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Much appreciated!

[@192ali1]

Great step by step video. Excellent

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks, Ali!

[@dominozonda]

A great step by step video! Excellent content! I'm really curious to see whether this will help a little or not, because from the borescope video a lot of the oil seemed to had come from the top, I think it was mainly in cylinder 3, the amount seemed to be too much to me although I'm no expert at all, but I think if that oil was coming from the valve stem seal then you should see a significant drop in oil consumption, since if that amount was continously leaking I think it would amount to more than a quart in a couple of months But it could be coming from the spark plug housing or seal too or maybe it's all mainly because of the piston rings as everyone expects Can't wait for the result video!

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for the kind comment and input, ronda!

[@MyRcGoSlow]

Sold my Corolla lol this looks easy too bad sold in December 2021 lol next time thanks for helping us bro

[@crunchygremlin]

bah that last connector you did... i was trying to find where that was supposed to plug in for a while. It doesnt look like it fits on that powersteering connector. so i guess the symptoms if that isnt plugged in rough idle with a tight turn.

[@daves8085]

I put acetone and dextron 3 in for a day and a half and seamed to help the rings

[@alfredomarquez9777]

HEY!!! THAT IS A GOOD IDEA... See, I have used the MOPAR ATF+3 synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid diluted with Acetone or MEK, around half and half as "THE BEST EVER PENETRATING OIL OF ALL"!, to remove stuck screws and nuts. In that way I discovered the tremendous penetrating power of that synthetic ATF... It only has the small drawback that it tends to separate, so you need to keep agitating the mixture just before applying. Perhaps, it will be as good or better than Berryman's B-12 Chemtool!

[@dddzzzdddzzz]

Did I miss if you checked all of the valve clearances? Tight valves would fully explain low compression on a cold engine, eventually they won't start if it's a single cylinder engine! The valves will fully close when the aluminum cylinder head expands, so compression is more like normal when hot, but very low when cold.

[@chehsed]

Since he reused his old springs, I'm guessing that reusing the old valve lifters (or "buckets") would mean he'd have the same clearance after the job, as when he began. I would recommend using new springs, because if the seals are bad, the springs are probably bad, too. Haynes manual shows how to inspect the old springs.

[@alfredomarquez9777]

​@@chehsedI have re-used the springs on a lot of engines, by just comparing the correct height when uncompressed, and if it is OK, the spring is perfectly useable, even in high revving, high spring compression engines. That fast and simple height check is sufficient to discard or keep a valve spring. Some people check the condition of the valve springs by the sound when struck with a small hammer, but my old ears don't allow me to use that technique...

[@marxseet]

Unfortunately my chain tensioner is inside the casing, so this would not work for me without dismantling the side casing. Great job anyway, this is informative.

[@jamesdavis1049]

Hi I love to see how far uve gotten. I've literally done the valve seals a week or two ago on my 1zz. The car smoked even worse than before on the first start up. When I'm accelerating hard the smoke is now a Lil less but black rather than blueish. My valve seals were blue and brownish rather than green though, and had no ex or in on top to indicate where they went. I put brown on exuast and blue on intake. I did use more pressure than you did but I am a Lil worried that the valve seals have lifted from their sitting place and am going to go check it. I'll see how yours turns out before Goin back in. I will upgrade the pistons a Lil later on. Ps, car still Burns the same amount of oil lol.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I have a feeling we're in the same boat. All the best on your 1zz adventures, James :-)

[@Magnabee97]

Doesn’t black smoke indicate running rich?

[@jamesdavis1049]

@@Magnabee97 yes but the car still burned the same amount of oil if not a lil less.

[@mark.r8900]

Great video. So once you're at top dead center you can change the intake and exhaust seals at the same time? Thanks

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

That is correct.

[@stuartarneaud218]

Bro u really good for trying 🤞

[@jaystheone1]

Thank alot for the detailed video

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Certainly, Lars. I hope it was helpful.

[@lewissmith9444]

Dave good work man i like The idea of the rope not seen that before , what’s the current status of the vehicle still smoking? You should try BG EPR as an engine flush the add BG MOA as a oil conditioner , I’m from the uk and for me I can depend on these products in my opinion there far superior than anything else , you could have gummed up rings from oil additives or just from general use , bg epr will desolve any cloggs in oil control rings etc… looking forward to see what actually the problem with your car

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks, Lewis. We'll find out soon if it's still burning oil. ... Haven't pulled the dipstick yet.

[@tomasnokechtesledger1786]

I still think you got a crack in the head gasket between cyls 2&3 around the oil galleries, leaking to them as I said a few videos before. But, let's see what you may find out...

[@Sebnasadeshina230311]

Nice job Dave, how can I can get my hand on the tools especially the spring installer and remover. I will love to have garage where I will be fixing vehicle soonest.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks ... here's a link to the tool company www.toyotool.com/

[@darylhatherrley5765]

the timing marks should be 3 oclock posistion on the left and 9 oclock on the right so that they meet in the middle and the two gold links were where you had them.

[@juanauletjr.6381]

Why not just fill the cylinder with compressed air

[@Kampf0r]

Well done. Have been waiting for you to do the seals. Can't wait to see if there is an improvement in oil consumption.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks. Me too.

[@cliffweinan3907]

Clever technique !

[@steveturner1988]

Hi Dave,Thanks for this great video...I am about to try to replace my valve seals on this exact engine. One question...when you turn the crank, does it matter which direction when raising and lowering the pistons with rope in the cylinders?

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

It's supposedly best to turn it the way it naturally rotates, but I don't think it matters on this engine. I believe I turned it both ways when it was all said and done.

[@steveturner1988]

Great. Thank you. Your videos are really outstanding. We all appreciate it:)

[@yezok01]

That 1zz needs guides possibly valves and undoubtedly rings and pistons or drill the ring oil return holes bigger as 6hat was a flaw on some of those engines

[@benmiller200]

Do this better would be to remove the chain and put it on correctly with both close colored links matched to the cam markings and the lower colored link lined up with the dot on your crank.

[@playstation2bigs]

How many years will the new valve seal deteriorate?

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I think they tend to last around 100-150k miles.

[@ericvannielsen]

4:44 you awakened an ancient memory in the recesses of my brain…

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Good memories I hope!

[@simblorr]

@15:28 I just did the seals on my 2zzge and same problem with that tool, it was useless, needle nose pliers to the rescue!

[@steveturner1988]

Did it make a difference? I have a 2004 Celica that burns a quart every 1000 miles, white/ blue smoke on start-up. I feel like it has lost a bit of acceleration too. I am contemplating trying to do this job. Thanks for any advice.

[@jrm163]

Hi Dave, why do we still need to insert rope into cylinders when the piston is on top dead please? Thanks

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

The rope keeps the valves pressed firmly into their seats while you do the work.

[@gh4884]

I will be doing the exact repair and will be using an air compressor for the first time. What is the amount of psi I should set on the compressor to hold the valve stems still so I can remove and install the seal?

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Keep in mind, it's probably safer to use rope. If the power goes out or compressor stops for some reason, you could drop your valves into the cylinders and end up having to take the head off. ... but the PSI should be between 90 and 120 if you use a compressor.

[@raphahlelodoubt3901]

wow now i have knowledge thank u very much

[@p.a.jacobs5514]

Excellent! Fantastic! Unbelievable!😊

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Much appreciated!

[@jzflmr6089]

I wouldnt worry about the chain colors/ you just ned good timing to set

[@luckyguy600]

well, they sure can't fault you for trying sir. A good job done, on a relatively easy engine. Some of the new ones aren't that straightforward. But. They don't burn any oil either if they are new that is. And under warranty. Keep your fingers crossed. You will get this beat, or blow it up trying! lol Best of Luck with your endeavors.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Much appreciated!

[@DragonFoust]

I have a question, how to find the top dead center? my chain dont match the marks too, i guess theres a mark on the pulley off the crankshaft and the first lobs on the exhaust and intake axle are pointing at each other

[@johndelange4066]

The timing marks don't run true every revolution on TDC. Once they are set they will definitely not line up after running the car. Depends on the length of the chain and the teeth on the sprockets on when those marks will line up again.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Makes sense. Thanks John!

[@kmook76]

Lol the timing chain tensioner def leaking oil if you didn't already replace it. Look at all that oil sludge around and below it. I'd get a whole new one at this mileage rather than a new o ring. Besides the defective piston oil rings, the chain tensioner and valve cover leaking oil are the most common sources of oil loss for this gen engine. ...jumps ahead to where you replace o-ring . Mine ran a little better, smoother, quieter idle after a whole new tensioner.

[@chrisryan8863]

That was such as a cool video!

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks Chris!

[@chloeleedow7250]

By the time you got that tool and finished cylinder 2 you were like you'd done hundreds of them 💪 I wouldn't even attempt them without that tool or I'd end up hurting myself or losing something just burn the whole car out 😂

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

It's all in the editing, Jeff 😉

[@DragonFoust]

You are my hero, theres a Instagram or fan Page off the channel? Cheers from brazil dude

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Nothing but KZbin. Thanks for the kind comment!

[@gabrielarsenault4175]

The color link of the timing chain doesnt stay on the mark after the engine turns over , its "skipping" so chain / sprocket wear envenly...

[@billcowhig5739]

That’s what I first thought when I looked at my timing chain (2000 Tacoma 2RZ-FE), thought the timing chain had “skipped.” But that wasn’t true. After 11 turns of the crankshaft, the yellow links were again lined up as in initial installation.

[@juancarlosdenays7498]

Ths sir I did the same today your video help me so much

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Glad to hear it, Juan Carlos!

[@salamrahmon5449]

Hi Dave, love from Nigeria..... Please whats the outcome of the change of the valve stem seal has it stopped the oil shortage.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I don’t know yet, Salam. I’ll get a video out as soon as I do.

[@gartheligon140]

Goes on easy without old valve stem seal.

[@SON-ud6ir]

So Nicely video. Thanks.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thank YOU :-)

[@joshuatran3667]

the Toyo Valve Master tool is worth its weight in gold

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Agree. Sweet tool!

[@ToyotatechDK]

Man that engine is sooty 😱

[@rotarygod]

great work!!! but I am still thinking your rings is stuck , my friend has a 2.4 TC with stuck oil rings , he put a few oz B12 chem in the cylinder and soak for few hours( soak ,turn the crank and soak) , after 2 or 3 times , he fixed the oil burning problem

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks. I think B12 will definitely be on the list of experiments. Seems like I’ve had the most votes for that!

[@DeeDee-lz8zx]

Where is cylinder 4 on the engine? I replaced the engine coils but still getting a misfire on that coil.

[@chaselesser3191]

Wait a dam minute. Lol I have a 17’ sonata. And I hope I can bypass not removing the timing cover. Lol.

[@ebuzek3648]

Judging by the looks of that motor inside. It has had a very rough life. Try a better oil and way more frequent changes. Trying to get the color links on the timing chain to line up would take some doing. If you took the timing chain cover off and reset everything then you can line up all of the marks and links. One full cycle of the engine and they won't line up again. The cam caps are already numbered E1-4 and I1-4. Removing the valve keeper. Use a 5/8 spark plug socket and rap the top with a hammer. Removing the valve seals. Use a new pair of Vise Grip needle nose pliers. You should spend time cleaning all of that up. When dealing with those keepers you should pack some paper towels all around there to keep one of them form dropping down a hole. Lisle tools makes a valve keeper tool.

[@G1OrionPax]

Do you think that Toyotool Valvemaster valve spring compressor is compatible with B series Honda motor?

[@aidankirby8412]

Great video. What model and year toyota is this?

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks. It’s an ‘02 Corolla.

[@muneyoz101]

Beautiful, third times always a charm I love it when a plan comes together, whooooo!!!!!!!! Calm down im only just a spectator😂 let's goooo!!!

[@shaddiamorris2083]

Where did you get the Toyotool Valve Master tool: part VMT2AZ from? Been looking online can’t seem to find it

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Ebay... www.ebay.com/itm/302025042440?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=302025042440&targetid=1645685075008&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9010604&poi=&campaignid=16730423415&mkgroupid=135815925780&rlsatarget=pla-1645685075008&abcId=9300841&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQjwuuKXBhCRARIsAC-gM0hK2wzPPOU9kZlC3SQ1IDUYC4iCXwMfi2SudvwlZSU_bjorlw5qFuQaAlZNEALw_wcB

[@johnschannel449]

l just got blue smoke from exhaust on start up with my 20 year old camry and its burning more oil then normal . The smoke lasts a few minutes then goes away once l drive . l think its fauty stem seals. If l dont replace the stem seals how long will my car last if l check the oil and keep it topped up

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

It will probably last a surprisingly long time, being a Toyota. But the oil will eventually cause other more expensive or harder to fix problems like catalytic converter damage, leaking valves, fouled plugs, gummed up piston rings.

[@josefranciscoesquertalaman3827]

*Me suscribo* Presente cordial saludo desde Navojoa Sonora México

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Much appreciated! Thanks for subscribing!

[@jamesdoyle6839]

Actually I don;t think it's the valve stem seals, I think it's the Muffler Bearings leaking oil into tailpipe

[@Magnabee97]

You seem to enjoy what you’re doing and it’s certainly entertaining but your skill level is way beyond anything I could ever do. If it was me I would throw in some Lucas goop, buy a case of cheap oil and call it a day. I’ve used Lucas tranny treatment with some almost miraculous results. I’ll bet the cars would still run for a long time.