BMW F2x F3x Springs and Shocks Installation (RWD & xDrive)

[@rmaree]

I don't usually comment on YT, but i just have to say thank you for this guide. made the whole process so much easier

[@IggyBam]

There's a reason this video is used as reference on so many forums - this gave me the confidence to do this job myself and I'm glad I did! Rear suspension fitted today, front tomorrow! Thank you for making this video, I'm sure it took you a lot longer to do the job whilst getting all the video shots 👍

[@FaRKle0079]

Congrats on doing it yourself! Enabling others is exactly why I make these.

[@IggyBam]

@@FaRKle0079 follow up - just got finished on the fronts. Took me the best part of 4 hours... But its done. A couple of points for others - buy some decent spring compressors, trying it with cheap ones took a while and felt sketchy. Also, the counter holding whilst using the torque wrench wasn't necessary for me once you tighten it enough with a ratchet, made it easier and didn't have to use crows foot and open socket. Also note that if you installed bilsteins, the new nut on the top of the front damper will be 19mm instead of 18mm on the video, so don't buy a 18mm open sided socket like me.. Thanks!

[@FaRKle0079]

@@IggyBam Congrats!

[@GeeQ93]

@@FaRKle0079 appreciate your guidance, i will change my oem edc front shocks to oe bilstein b4 edc shocks in one week on my f36 due to leaking. I am not changing shocks first time but on bmw first time. Really helpful to see all specs and tricky points and the tools that i need to add my inventory would i need for the job. I wonder would i need to take the headlight leveling sensor if i use your method please? My car is rwd, thanks.

[@BilboeSwaggins]

Best tutorial I found. Took me 10 hours because of missing tools, broken bits, and just random things lol. If I did it again it would probably take me about 3.5-4 hours.

[@lifebehindbars8750]

Wow! Excellent and detailed tutorial. This has given me the confidence that I could fit these to my M140i rather than pay a garage. Brilliant work, thanks 👌

[@gionet1234]

This video is gold, no other way to put it. Thank you!

[@bungl3971]

so glad you included your method which circumvents removal of the axle bolts! I just did the thrust arms with monoball upgrade on my f31 xdrive and noticed my front shocks leaking a bit, now I can procure parts without getting yet another set of those bolts! haha

[@AndyfromSurrey]

Thank you for making this video. I watched it a few times and then changed all the suspension on my M140i on my driveway. Seeing the tools I would need was dead handy too.

[@sehla4]

Very good and informative video. I benefited from it when I was going to do the same job. .... but, I see in this video, like many others the tip to use an impact gun to remove and install end links. As a former car mechanic and today an aviation technician, I get shivers when I hear it again and again. These joints are not designed to spin. They will not fall apart, but their service life will be shortened. The method you use (removing front end link) on your M2 is the one referred to by the manufacturers. Felt I wanted to write it to you as you seem to be serious about doing the right thing in your videos. Keep up the good work 👍.

[@phillroslasky9898]

Dude, thank you. I actually feel like I can do this instead of paying the stealership $3600 to do JUST my fronts. Thank you for your detailed video and explaining your "preferred" way vs the "bmw" way, it looks a lot easier than I'd actually thought it was!!

[@squarebamboo]

Thanks for this video! By far, this is the most detailed instructions I can find on youtube! I followed your steps to replace bilstein b6 struts and shocks on my 2015 435i xDrive Gran Coupe. However, I want to point out 2 things: 1. Your xDrive way does not work for me, I have to go with BMW way, my rotor simply won't drop from the strut. 2. I bought the crow foot tool, but later found out it does not fit the pass through socket. I was quite frustrated as I can't torque to spec. Then I later found out, you can just use through socket and center hold to get it tight enough, then with tension on the thread, you can use normal socket and torque wrench and torque it to spec without center hold. No crow foot needed. I hope this helps someone!

[@12jfern]

Broooo, I was just wondering how to do this and if that would work! Thanks!

[@milt1916]

2017 440i Gran Coupe RWD here. Got the strut off the steering knuckle with foot pressure, but couldn't get it to drop low enough when putting the new strut (Bilstein B6 Damptronic) in. Also didn't have enough room to rotate the strut and knuckle in through the fender opening. Finally disconnected the ball joint on the LCA and that let the steering knuckle drop enough. I do have the F8x control arms installed, so maybe that makes a difference.

[@Jacknewzero]

The best repair video i've ever seen. Thumbs up!!!

[@dmshopper6952]

This is one of the best DIY BMW tutorials I've seen in years. Very informative and your method of swapping the struts on X drive is so much better! Thanks a lot!

[@rickylopez5977]

Excellent video. Best described and demonstrated video by far. Look forward to viewing your tutorials!

[@RIFF0RAFF]

Thank you! You made an excelent tutorial. Really came in handy for me during installing B6 on M140i XDrive.

[@ericbiggins1645]

Fantastic walk through…thank you! I used the video to install Eibach’s and Koni Yellows this past weekend and this video was a HUGE help. Also, the tool list was awesome to prepare ahead of time for someone who is not a mechanic with limited tools.

[@FaRKle0079]

Congrats on the new setup! Try starting those Konis at full soft and slowly raising the rebound damping from there. You probably wont have to go too far from soft to find the optimal point.

[@ShowMeWhatINeedToKnow]

DUDE -- THANKS for everything. Your vid saved me a lot of agony doing my rear shocks today. Being prepared helped immensely!

[@FaRKle0079]

Congrats on getting your new shocks in!

[@kh1487]

FYI, I used 5/8" spark plug instead of the the 16mm pass though socket for the sway bar link end nut removal. and it is perfect for using crowfoot socket to tight up torque.

[@Glen-yu1qe]

Thx for this tutorial. Yesterday I replaced the stock shocks with Bilstein B6. Peace of cake with this video! Also very handy with those torque specs.

[@FaRKle0079]

Glad it helped you! Enjoy your new dampers!

[@brakthru2]

This video was very helpful. The only problem i had was torquing to spec the shock mount to the shock without a pass through torque wrench. I had to wing it. Thank you

[@Onizukachan915]

Thanks much, was about to disassemble much more than I needed to when installing the front Street Comforts in the f31 tonight. Used your method but since I had new lemforder mounts for the KW, it really was as easy as loosen top mounts remove pinch bolt and sway bar link, then vibrate the knuckle off the strut, then tilt out at bottom to remove. For future viewers note, 3 bolt strut mounts use a larger bolt than featured here 15mm iirc, but the lemforder 3 bolt replacements from ECS use the same smaller shanked bolts the 5 bolts do. Luckily I bought the complete set with gaskets bolts etc. suggest you do the same!

[@kingtoros]

Thanks for this exceptionally detailed video. Your decision to flow through and provide both methods in a logical flow instead of splitting into two videos made it easy to compare the methods and validate your suggested way. I used this video this weekend to help a friend swap his front struts and springs on a 2015 xdrive

[@kokotadack]

Thanks for the great tutorial... Saves a lot of time and avoids extra work with the half shaft!

[@FaRKle0079]

Yup, and you don't have to stress about getting a new collar bolt, or worrying you didn't mate your axle to hub properly either!

[@oksymoroni]

Thanks Farkle!!! Just got done installing Koni Yellows with Eibach springs on my 340i. Your video was the best I've found and it helped tremendously.

[@FaRKle0079]

Glad it helped!

[@black71cuda]

Wow, great tutorial, Andrew!

[@stevedixon8457]

Excellent video! A great help when swapping the springs on my F21 M140i. Many thanks from the UK 🙂

[@FaRKle0079]

Glad you found it helpful!

[@davidmiller4566]

Hi from across the pond. Great video! I’d already installed B16s on my F30 (wish I’d used this tutorial when I did it🙄) anyway, it’s such a transformation over standard. I used it this time as I needed new top mounts and needed reminding of the steps! Your videos are so good, I know this is old and you’ve probably upgraded since but even so, keep up the great work. Recently replaced my sway bar using your video too 👍👍 Cheers uk Dave

[@FaRKle0079]

Thanks Dave! Glad the content is still helpful!

[@bigfeezy19]

Excellent job, very detail 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾

[@none8258]

Never knew crow's feet needed to be at 90°. Thanks for that!

[@rosspayne8221]

Invaluable walk through thanks. Nice step by step method with a calm delivery, very nice. I’m off for a drive 😅

[@penguin350]

This is amazing, I was really struggling to get the rear camber bolts off though and ended up giving up. Might give it another go with some penetrating oil to see if that loosens them. Also noticed I had some slightly different bolts on my euro F30 328.

[@DJAdo80]

Thank you so much for this video! I was able to tackle replacing my front struts on my ‘13 F30 335i rwd. I have the electronic dampers so I had to remove the wheel wheel plastic covers to replace the old connection to strut with new ones from Bilsteins. Easy peezy!

[@DJAdo80]

‘Wheel wells’, not wheel wheels :)

[@FaRKle0079]

Congrats! Glad it helped.

[@milt1916]

Hmm. I was wondering why the adapter cables were so long, and how to secure them. On my car, the stock cables would be long enough to work, and I don't understand why Bilstein wouldn't just supply a short adapter cable to connect the stock cable to the strut.

[@Hubscharber]

Wonderful video! I found my front left adaptive damper leaking, so was not looking forward to parts + labor from a garage on this one; will do it myself! One thing I noticed, TIS recommends replacing the hardware and doing the torque values like you mentioned + 90* - any reason to reuse old components?

[@FaRKle0079]

If you're only going to do this once, it's not much to replace a lot of the fasteners. If you constantly tinker, and play with adjustments, then that adds a decent amount of cost and logistics making sure you have a whole set every time you want to go in there.

[@jonarchdeacon3761]

Perfect level of detail and explanation

[@freisingBoy]

Glad I found your tutorial, great work! Having trouble finding a 18mm 'Difficult Access' socket. Common sizes are 17mm or 19mm, but no 18mm.

[@philipsimmonds269]

Great video. It gave me the confidence to do mine.

[@orinoko77]

Very useful video! there are two things I'd like to add counterholds should not be spun, spin the nuts. 2nd some of the bolts need to be torqued but also adder 90° of rotation. You got all the torques right bit not mention about the degrees... on newtis you can look that up.

[@kevinrtres]

Thank you very much. This is the best video on the topic I've come across so far!!! Also applies specifically to my own car. Once again - thanks a lot!

[@davemackie188]

Great tutorial! I'll be changing my struts in a few weeks and this is super helpful.

[@jonathanburrell6705]

What did you do about Not having the original adaptive suspension system any longer ? Really good informative video btw.👍🏻👍🏻

[@carlalan1880]

thanks the best one i have watched and i have watched a few now after watching this i feel i can do it myself thanks

[@tteitei]

Thank you for the tutorial. It was very thorough and helped me replace the bump stops in the rear dampers.

[@nullpointer1984]

I love how are proper and even torquing the swaybar endlink :) I also try to torque everything correctly, really easy to get the correct information for BMWs

[@NeoxX317]

Fantastic!!! Thank you so much !! I am still hesitating doing the B6 installation myself on my F20.. Also i have been told to buy new bump stoppers at the front and rear + shock absorber bellows (to prevent dust - whatever you call it - im french haha). What do you guys think ? I cant just use the old ones ? Plus this video says we dont need bump stoppers for front absorber as its integrated in the damper.

[@joshuaquinton6010]

Would the car throw any codes or faults if the new Bilsteins do not have EDC? I am new to BMW’s and I’m having a difficult time finding the proper replacement struts for my RWD 435i. I would prefer to purchase struts without EDC since they’re more readily available, but I’m afraid to run into larger problems. Amazing Tutorial!

[@FaRKle0079]

Yes, unfortunately you'll get errors if you disconnect your EDC dampers. That said it's possible to program/code the EDC system off in your car to allow you to run regular non-EDC dampers just fine. This is what I did for my car and I offer that service (can be done remotely as long as you have a windows laptop with ethernet port and an obd2 to ethernet cable).

[@kjb8321]

Brilliant tutorial, so much detail! Thanks for sharing

[@opmike343]

These videos NEVER mention it, but when working on suspension components, keep a can of PB Blaster handy and soak everything you can the day before in penetrating oil. It'll make disassembly an order of magnitude easier, especially if you live in the rust belt.

[@223Sako]

Outstanding video. Well done for getting so much detail in there.

[@FaRKle0079]

Thanks!

[@ScottPC]

Did today on my M140i. Great tutorial. One thing I’d recommend people do is get a impact gun (400nm did me).

[@dopiaza2006]

A full aligment is essential afterwards too

[@dsslimone]

Superb video I need to replace the suspension boots/ gaiters. So this in invaluable to me. 😊

[@dsslimone]

I'm thinking of changing renewing the shock absorbers and springs after having a look at them since I'll have everything off to do the boots. I have recently fitted a towbar to tow a caravan possibly once every 5 weeks. Do I have to upgrade springs on the rear. Not really wanting to lower the car want like for like springs. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

[@TheBearbertie]

Very clear - best video I've found on this topic

[@davidb649]

FOR 28.51 minutes and second of the video why do you torq down the front (30 nm bolts) after putting the car down? Won t it be better to 30nm torque them while the car is still up as there will be no tension against the struts and that little 30nm bolts will screw easier and more centered as there will not be any tension of the frame to any direction? Please let me know.

[@carlosmiguel4756]

@14:30 how do you guarantee the correct torque of 64nm (47ftlbs) in that nut if you're not using a torque wrench?

[@FaRKle0079]

Jump to 29:25. I do final torque when the car is on the ground.

[@carlosmiguel4756]

@@FaRKle0079 Oh i just missed that last part thank you! Yeah gotta get that 18mm passthrough to change mine's.

[@marianosusuki9849]

Thanks for your thorough tutorial.

[@groef400]

Thank you for the video! Very detailed. I have a question though. How far does the new front strut go into the knuckle? It looks to me you can push it as far as you want in the knuckle? There is no stop for it?

[@sethmoreadith6619]

Love the video! Just ordered b8 shocks and H & R springs will definitely be using this when I go to install them. Will adjustable/aftermarket end links be needed for the setup I ordered? If so do you have any recommendations and what length? Thanks!

[@FaRKle0079]

You won't "need" adjustable end links, but they're nice to have. I like the KC Design ones I have, but I'd say more importantly is to look for ones with boots over the ball joints if you drive the car in dirty/wet conditions.

[@tonyplatano1850]

Great tutorial - very detailed, and lots of helpful tips!

[@mrwriter86]

@23:50 you say to be careful with the hex as it’s easy to strip apart. I’m at that stage and unfortunately that’s exactly what’s happened to me. I’m stuck at this point, do you have any advice on how I might be able to remove the nut from here? Thank you!

[@FaRKle0079]

Oh no! I would try using a pair of vice grips (or a bench vise) to hold the damper shaft below the top mount (where the bump stop typically covers. You can wrap the shaft in rubber/bicycle inner tube if you're worried about scratching the chrome finish on it. If you can't get it off with a hand tool that way, you can try an impact, and use short bursts.

[@mrwriter86]

@@FaRKle0079hanks so much for your reply and advice, I really appreciate it. I had to give up on the old shocks in the end. I ordered two new top mounts and managed to complete the spring and shock replacement on both rear sides following your guide. Car feels like it’s just rolled out the factory again. Your video gave me everything I needed to know, and even helping me out with your reply above has been valuable. Thanks for all the time and effort you’ve put in, you’ve absolutely helped me out!! All the best.

[@FaRKle0079]

@@mrwriter86 Glad you got it sorted in the end and are happy!

[@ShowMeWhatINeedToKnow]

Awesome vid -- Question though: At 24:39 -- That was a locknut and you used a new one? Do you know where I can order a new replacement? I didn't see a link in the description. Thanks!!!

[@FaRKle0079]

The PN for that lock nut is 07119907135. You don't really have to use a new one (it's a nice to have).

[@ShowMeWhatINeedToKnow]

@@FaRKle0079 -- Awesome; thanks!

[@armandosalinas658]

Thank you for this great detailed video, it’s much appreciated! 👍

[@Mykhailo-v4q]

64 Nm torque should be applied to top nut when spring is compressed, isn't it?

[@limaiemheykel]

Why did you have to remove the 17mm collar bolt?

[@YSCDIY]

Nice video, I have a question about the 18mm pass-through with 6mm counterhold. I saw my mechanic installed my new strut and coil spring without the 6mm counterhold. He just use a socket wrench to tie up the strut and mount. Does that cause strut and mount tie-up not properly? Thank you for your answer.

[@FaRKle0079]

If he was able to hold the strut shaft securely some other way, he might not have needed the 6mm hex counter hold.

[@dopiaza2006]

Around 24:00 - any problem with using vise grip on the strut rod to stop it from turning? As long as you do it near the top no chance of it ever going into the shock body so no risk? By the way, this is remarkably similar to the Mk5 Golf suspension. Surprised (and disappointed) that the F30 doesn't use double wishbone at the front. McPherson strut will always be a compromise.

[@FaRKle0079]

You can also do that (using a vise grip on the shaft). If you want to avoid possible damage to the shaft, wrap it in a couple layers of duct tape. BMW's mainstream models have typically been McPherson strut. Got to spend a lot more to get double wishbone!

[@dopiaza2006]

@@FaRKle0079 Or buy a Miata!

[@CatalinIonut98]

Man I wish I saw this video before I did my rear shocks. I managed to strip both hex’s and it was an ordeal to torque them. I didn’t mangă to reach 38Nm but it think it should be fine as they are locking nuts.

[@FaRKle0079]

Luckily the rears don't really need to be at full torque spec, and if you used nylock type locking nuts, those actually use a lower torque spec (stated in the damper mfg's instructions).

[@CatalinIonut98]

@@FaRKle0079unfortunately I did not had the nylon lock nut and I've used new oem style. Although I don't think they would back up either. As they are also locking nuts. Last 2-3 threads are deformed intentionally .

[@RapGali]

Any tips on how to get enough compression on the spring? I'm using the same tool but cannot get enough compression to fit the top. I just about managed to remove it but now can't put it back in 😢

[@FaRKle0079]

Wow, I'm really surprised with the type of spring compressor I used you can't get enough compression. Even with it fully tightened down you're unable to put weight/force on the top mount to compress the spring enough to get the nut started?

[@aloco62]

Thank you so much for this video. Great information and details.🙏🏼🙏🏼

[@flyro2000]

Great video mate! Going to be putting Bilstein's on my M135i soon :)

[@Guzzlerm3]

Hello my friend hey I was helping my buddy to install this shocks on he's 20 m2c everything fit until we when to reinstall the swaybar link they didt line up with the shock look like the ear on the shock was to far up so the link was to short even with the shock not compress any idea on what we missed

[@zanderlukas1248]

Hey, thanks for the tips this DIY video is great. Would you happen to know if the F34 GT is the same?

[@scottycuk]

if RWD would you suggest doing it your way rather than pull the knuckle and stut down together?

[@derekkchung]

10:50 The cheap compressor really could not work. The one u are using barely work when the strut + thread is not short. The coil has only 2-3 "rounds", giving no place to mount the compressor paws, or not much compression possible. It is not easy with this 2-3 round coil.... Just FYI. I was struggling with this.

[@RapGali]

This is exactly why I'm struggling now. I can't get enough compression on the spring with either tool... It's so frustrating 😢

[@FaRKle0079]

"kpgray" on the F30 Bimmerpost forums kindly made the below checklist of items needed to do the job in this video. Wow, great job to him! Sockets: □ 1/2" and 3/8" Ratchet/s □ 1/2" Breaker Bar/s □ 1/2" and 3/8" Extensions □ 8 MM Standard 5-Bolt Shock Tower □ 10 MM Standard 3-Bolt Shock Tower / Front Plastic Cover Cam Studs □ 13 MM Standard Front Shock Tower Top Strut □ 16 MM Front Strut Clamp Knuckle Nut □ 16 MM-Pass Through Rod Ends / Rear Upper Shock Nut □ 17 MM Wheel Studs □ 18 MM Front Strut Clamp Knuckle Bolt / Rear Shock Bolt □ 18 MM Pass Through Shock Mount Strut / Rear Shock Bolt & Nut □ 21 MM Rear Camber Arm Nut / Bolt Combination Ratcheting Wrenches: □ 13 MM Front Shock Tower Top Strut □ 16 MM Strut Clamp Knuckle Nut □ 18 MM Strut Clamp Knuckle Bolt / Rear Shock Bolt & Nut □ 21 MM Rear Camber Arm Knuckle Bolt or Nut (Could be either) □ 3/4" For Pass Through Sockets (set dependent) Torx Center-hold: □ T30 Long, Rod End (for 16 MM Pass Through Socket above) E-Torx Socket: □ E12 Rear Upper Shock Bolts □ E18 Front Strut Brace Stud / Rear Camber Arm Bolt □ E20 Rear Arm Nut (Could be either OR 20 MM / 21 MM) Hex Allen Wrench: □ 5 MM, can be socket, Rear Shock Upper Mount (with 16 MM Pass Through Socket above) □ 6 MM, can be socket, Front Shock Mount Strut (with 18 MM Pass Through Socket above) Special Tools: □ Outside Spring Compressor □ 1/2" and 3/8" Torque Wrench/s for ranges 10-150 lbs □ Knuckle Spreader (to open strut clamp) (1 required **ESC Tuning # 2652181) □ Crows Foot for Pass Through Sockets ( 19mm or 3/4" optional due to your personal tools usage) □ Trim Tool for Front Strut Rubber Cover Expand Rivet Removal □ 17 MM Male Hex Socket for xDrive Front Axel Wheel Nut (if removing BMW way)* *IMPORTANT NOTE: If removing the Front Axle Wheel Nut DO NOT REUSE (2 required: ECS # 2859492) □ Pick Tool for removal of BMW Wheel Center Cap (if removing 17 MM Front Axle Wheel Nut, the BMW way) □ Pry Tool for xDrive Headlight Leveling Sensor □ Floor Jack □ Jack Stands Front Torques: 32.5 lbs. 16MM Rod End 41.5 lbs. 18 MM Strut Clamp Knuckle 47 lbs. 18 MM Shock Damper 5-Bolt Shock Tower = 22 lbs. (8 MM) 3-Bolt Shock Tower = 41.5 lbs. (10 MM) 103.25 lbs. 17mm Wheel Bolts Rear Torques: 122 lbs. Camber Arm 75 lbs. Shock Bolt 28 lbs. Top Shock Mount (16 MM) 20.65 lbs. E12 Upper Shock Mount 103.25 lbs. 17mm Wheel Bolts NOTES: *IMPORTANT NOTE: If removing the Front Axle Wheel Nut DO NOT REUSE (2 required: **ECS # 2859492) ** Special Note: ESC Tuning: www.ecstuning.com/

[@TrackandBuild]

The front strut clamp knuckle torque should be 32 ft lbs as indicated in the video plus 90 degree turn

[@FaRKle0079]

@@TrackandBuild Yup, but you only want to do the +90deg if using a new bolt, otherwise you'll have "double stretched" a used one.

[@krzysztof5776]

This is just fabulous

[@SamJ596]

Just watching this video after doing the job last week, and realising that I didn’t have the rear LCA jacked up to lift. The car off the axle stand while tightening down the two bolts. Is this step really critical, to the point where it’d be worth slackening and retightening them again? Or should I be alright?

[@FaRKle0079]

You only need to do it for the rubber bushing in the damper. If you torque it with the suspension fully unloaded/full droop then that bushing is twisted at normal ride height and will wear faster. Not an immediate need to fix, but would be a good idea to do it. The bolt that holds the lower arm to the knuckle goes through a spherical bearing, which has no "natural" position so you can torque that one at full droop no problem.

[@youliangyi3346]

Thank you for this, it is very detailed. I want to upgrade my suspension, i've got 2017 340i, i knew the damper is the issue, but EDC makes upgrade option very limited. I probably will go BILSTEIN B6 Dampertonic, should I go Spring first? I want ACS springs. But I do want to keep the standard ride height.I am so confused. Please share some experience with me. I saw you did a lot of F30 suspension upgrades.

[@FaRKle0079]

For coilovers you can go to non EDC versions. You'll either have to use a EDC delete/blank off kit, or disconnect the EDC module in the trunk and code out EDC from the car. If you want to go to stiffer springs but don't want to lower the height you'll have to look at getting springs from other models, like F8x, F33, or F34. Some of those springs should allow you to maintain your current height but be stiffer. You'll need to find someone with the special knowledge of those spring rates and lengths though.

[@youliangyi3346]

@@FaRKle0079 Thanks for the advise, I will ask few local shop see if they can coding my BMW, i am in Australia. If i can non EDC suspension,option will be a lot more to choose from. Yeah I probably should look for those springs if I really want to keep the ride height.

[@alexguajardo8352]

Great video! I have a 2013 BMW X5 xdrive 35i with active suspension system. Can I replace the struts with ones with no active suspension? Thanks for your help!

[@FaRKle0079]

You can replace your front dampers with non EDC ones, but you'll need to replace the rear dampers with non-EDC ones too. Then you'll need to either code out EDC from the car (so the car doesn't think it has that option) or use dummy terminators for the cables so the car thinks it still has EDC dampers.

[@alexguajardo8352]

@@FaRKle0079 thanks for the information! I appreciate it!

[@uzeyourillusion]

Perfectly described and demonstrated 👌

[@darkelectroster]

Hi. I did everything your way and it was very easy for me. Thank you for the guide :D But now I have a problem. While driving, you can hear a rhythmic knocking noise from the front all the time. When I'm driving on a nice, even road at low speed, when it's quiet, the knocking noise is very loud and audible. Is it possible that the front axle has popped out of place? Is there a possibility that this is it? And that you just have to press it in without taking everything apart? Now I can't go back 30 miles to check it, and the workshop won't be able to accept me until next week...

[@FaRKle0079]

The front axles shouldn't have been able to separate from the knuckle/hub at all. Front axles can sometimes pop closer to where they go into the diff/support bearing, but this is usually if you completely slam the car's ride height down. Hopefully you didn't use struts/dampers meant for RWD cars since those will contact the CV boot and tear it. If you can put the front of the car in the air you can try to rotate the wheel by hand and see if you notice anything making the noise you hear.

[@darkelectroster]

@@FaRKle0079 Thank You for answer. I used springs dedicated for xdrive. Eibach Pro Kit E10-20-031-02-22, it lowers car 10-20 mm. I struggled when i had to put strut into carrier. I had to wiggle it around, maybe then I did something to axle? Funny thing, the knocking sound dissapear when i turn steering wheel slightly left, and in that one point noise dissapear completly.

[@微风-m7r]

Thank you so much, My BMW F20 M135i if unplug Accelerometer and Headlight level sensors , Can I drive fast in track ? Because I'm worried that my BMW sometimes limited speed on some cue.

[@微风-m7r]

I would like to install Blisten 14

[@jferrer9157]

Would you share where you got torque specs from? Im working in an f25 and cant find torque specs anywhere.

[@GothemCity]

Are the strut mount M8 bolts reusable? I read they are non-reusable because they stretch when tightened and do not provide the same clamping force once untightened.

[@FaRKle0079]

Yeah you can re-use those, just don't add the additional 90deg angle after the fastening torque.

[@jamesssss621]

New to bimmers and bought some Vogtland springs for my 17 x3. Does f2x mean this tutorial applies to my f25?

[@FaRKle0079]

It was meant for the F2x/F3x cars, not SUVs unfortunately. That said, the F25 suspension layout is super similar to the cars'. IIRC the rear spring is a coil over though.

[@chaoxue9028]

Excellent tutorial, thanks for sharing~ Is the suspension set in the video M performance spring + bilstein b6? According to your theory, bilstein b6 is so overdamped for stock springs or even eibach pro kit springs for f3x platform, so will the bilstein B6/B8 still overdamped if paired with M performance springs? I am considering this spring shock combo recently😁

[@raldyjimenez3319]

Hi just want to ask for your feedback on the ride experience with your Bilstein B6 if you don’t mind. I am thinking of upgrading to Bilstein B6 Damptronic for my 2018 F36 xDrive and not sure if this upgrade would totally compromise the ride quality. Thank in advance and hoping for your feedback

[@chriskamen2152]

you ever had the front axel pull out on the front from twisting the hub too much going in?

[@FaRKle0079]

@@chriskamen2152 nope. It's never felt close to doing that on any of the ones I've worked on.

[@chriskamen2152]

@@FaRKle0079 I undid the ball joint on the LCA and then tilted the whole assembly out of the fender and pushed the strut down and back in. Wondering if u exceeded the range and pulled the axel… but I also tore the rubber LCA bushing. The UCA is already VAC. Think I should do VAC lower now aswell? I don’t really want NVH and noise

[@Dan330i]

I have a bmw f30 330i and plan on having springs on my car what springs should I get because I want my car to be more stiff and make the car feel more agile

[@FaRKle0079]

I think dampers would be a better upgrade than springs for handling Bilstein B6/8 would probably give you what you're looking for.

[@hass1005]

Wow awesome job, I have a small question, let’s say hypothetically you need to replace the front struts would go OEM for 700$ or Bilstein B4 for 400$ ? Appreciate your feedback !

[@FaRKle0079]

If the rear dampers stayed stock, then I'd look to use OEM dampers for the front. If I was changing all four, I might be more inclined to do the B4s. As much as Bilstein says the B4 is a OE replacement, they use the exact same part number for every F2x/F3x, versus BMW having different PNs (and damping curves) for every individual model.

[@sammy_nicex]

Awesome tutorial... Thank You :)

[@brakthru2]

The only thing I did was put on new rear bump stops. The old ones were falling apart. This was on a F22 M240i. I'm on stock suspension. I noticed the rear end is stiff now all the time just driving normal around town. The car feels more level or stable in the rear but I feel the bumps more. Aggressive cornering feels more like oversteer now but still corners almost as fast as before. Do you think they will soften up over time? The bump stops are about 2.75in-3in long. Probably not much shock travel? With the shock out and fully compressing it, it took a while for it to fully extend. Car is EDC with 74k miles. Any ideas? Thanks.

[@FaRKle0079]

Yeah, it sounds like you don't have much free shock travel. Since the dampers are typically rebound biased it generally takes them longer to extend after compression. You can try shortening the bump stops but cutting off a bit of material from the upper side with a serrated knife. You can do that without having to remove the shock.

[@brakthru2]

@FaRKle0079 You're spot on. I measured the old bump stops, and they we're 2.25in long when i compressed them in my hand. They lost .75in due missing material. The new stops are 3 inches and are only 1/ 8 in from the shock body with no one in the car. It makes sense now why the car has a weird artificial like ride and bounce over certain road surfaces. The car literally rides the bump stops in stock form. I decided to check the front stops too. The originals are still in great shape on the car. Same deal. The bump stops sits about 1/8in from the strut. The front needs it due to a small sway bar. Front stock springs are good at 217 lb/in, according to Dinan. Rear springs are 526 lb/in. I went ahead and ordered the M2/M3/M4 rear bumps stops. They are 2.5in, which will shave .5 in. I also ordered E60 bump stops, which are 2.25in. The same as my worn stops. I'll try both. Either way, the car will feel better, corner faster, and have more traction again. It seems BMW owners are starting to find this out. At least BMW gave the M2 a little more clearance for damper travel front and rear since the car has a stiffer stock suspension.

[@brakthru2]

It makes me wonder if riding the stops wears out the dampers sooner?

[@FaRKle0079]

@@brakthru2 I don't think it should wear the dampers faster. I also shortened the bump stops on my M2 and it made a nice difference for medium bumps and larger.

[@brakthru2]

@@FaRKle0079 it doesn't sound like what I said surprised you. How much clearance did the M2 factory setup have with bumpstops? Your car may not have used the bumpstops as much as mine. It probably still helped your cornering speeds.

[@mickl6867]

@FaRKle0079 Excellent detailed DIY! I’ll be following this guide when installing B6 Damptronics on my 440i RWD next week. Thanks 👍

[@FaRKle0079]

Thanks and congrats on the new dampers!

[@mickl6867]

FaRKle0079 Would it be ok to reuse the front top strut mounts as the vehicle has cover 50k miles or replace with new?

[@FaRKle0079]

@@mickl6867 The top mounts are probably fine. What would degrade in them is the rubber encapsulating the part where the damper piston mounts to the top mount and the plastic thrust bearing on the underside. Typically it's the thrust bearing that gives out first due to dirt/contamination getting in there. If that doesn't spin well, then I'd get a new assembly. I had my top mounts for like 60k mi before swapping to camber plates and both the rubber and thrust bearings were fine.

[@dutzuxx]

You dont have the losen the front control arm in order to remove the strut?

[@FaRKle0079]

Nope!

[@KingRoyalTV]

Great video! Very informative!

[@coolguycoolcar]

Hi , Thank you for all your help. I have a 2013 Active Hybrid 3 with sport package and EDC. Looking at B12 pro Kit from Bilstein for Active Hybrid 3 for non EDC. I will buy the shock mounts for non EDC Hybrid 3 and will buy the right end link that is made for non EDC model. I know I don't need bump stops for front but .for rear should I go for bump stops non EDC or Adaptive EDC to match all ? Will I be ok or have issues when my mechanic install these b12s ? Also height wise don't know if I will be lower or higher than OEM Msport package ?

[@FaRKle0079]

One thing to be careful of with the AH3, is that the spring kit you get is actually made for it. The AH3 and 330e are quite a bit heavier due to the battery packs and come from BMW with significantly stiffer springs/dampers where that weight is. Putting a kit made for regular 335i or 330i on those two models will be under sprung/damped and sit lower than expected. I always recommend going to shorter bump stops like the F80 ones in any case.

[@coolguycoolcar]

The set I will be buying is made for AH3 for non EDC . Thank you again for your help.

[@coolguycoolcar]

​@@FaRKle0079Thank you . I have another question. What do I do with acceleration sensors ? When EDC gets cancelled, do they also get cancelled so I can remove ?

[@FaRKle0079]

@@coolguycoolcar I leave them on the damper, disconnect the plug, and then tuck the plug behind the wheel well liner.

[@coolguycoolcar]

@@FaRKle0079 Thank you again. Bilsteins don't have any brackets to hold them ! I saw some people just removing the cable instead of hiding but just wanted to hear from you as you seem to have alot of knowledge on suspension system of F30 with EDC

[@loldhanu1]

Amazing thanks alot dude!

[@federoco1]

What happens if you install the spring upside down respect the label?

[@tadmcmichael4093]

What is the benefit of loosening the strut nut while it is still on the car? Why not leave it tight and loosen after compressing the springs? Why not torque with it compressed before installing also?

[@FaRKle0079]

When the strut is in the car the strut is being held in place securely and the working angle is better. You can also do it with the strut assembly out of the car, but I find it easier to work with when held upright in the car for the initial break torque and final torque.

[@tadmcmichael4093]

Excellent, that makes sense. This might be the best how to video that I have ever seen.

[@charlesmcmichael1443]

@@FaRKle0079 Did the rear springs yesterday and no issues, thanks! One more question about the front. I will also be doing camber plates at the same time and watched your plate install on the M2. For new coil and plate install, could I remove the shaft nut (with it supported), move the strut down to create some room, remove the top hat stuff, and then pass the spring up through the engine bay? I know the diameter of that hole would be too small for the spring, but it looks like you would have plenty of room to twist the coil and slowly "unscrew it" through that opening? Then, could screw the new coil in and reverse the process. This seems like it would reduce a lot of the install steps as long as you were keeping the same shocks?

[@FaRKle0079]

@@charlesmcmichael1443 That's an interesting idea to see if you can twist/thread the spring out of the top hole! You're right that it would save you time on the swap. I'm not confident it'd work, but if you try it, let me know how it works out.

[@tadmcmichael4093]

@@FaRKle0079 I found it actually pretty easy to screw out the spring through the engine bay after decompressing the spring and removing the top hat. Just as easy to screw a new spring in.

[@adebamboallinson5110]

Hi, please I have a question. I have a xdrive model. If I was doing it not the bmw way then I don’t have to remove the collar bolt or the headlight levelling right ?

[@FaRKle0079]

The "BMW way" is more difficult and requires you to remove the collar bolt and detach the headlight leveling arm. My way only requires you to detach the headlight leveling arm.

[@adebamboallinson5110]

@@FaRKle0079 thank you. I thought your method required removing the collar bolt but I understand now. I shall attempt this with confidence.

[@tonyl350]

@FaRkLe0079 great DIY video. noticed in beginning you had edc. i would like to ask, did the your new strut/ shocks come with edc plug in location?

[@FaRKle0079]

I coded EDC out and disconnected the module. My Fat Cat Motorsports suspension setup is passive. I don't miss EDC.

[@adamdavies7120]

Great Vid. I didn't realize you could swap out the adaptive shocks and replace it with standard shocks. What did you use to code out the EDC?

[@FaRKle0079]

I used ESYS to code out EDC.