BMW F2x F3x Springs and Shocks Installation (RWD & xDrive)

[@IggyBam]

There's a reason this video is used as reference on so many forums - this gave me the confidence to do this job myself and I'm glad I did! Rear suspension fitted today, front tomorrow! Thank you for making this video, I'm sure it took you a lot longer to do the job whilst getting all the video shots 👍

[@FaRKle0079]

Congrats on doing it yourself! Enabling others is exactly why I make these.

[@IggyBam]

@@FaRKle0079 follow up - just got finished on the fronts. Took me the best part of 4 hours... But its done. A couple of points for others - buy some decent spring compressors, trying it with cheap ones took a while and felt sketchy. Also, the counter holding whilst using the torque wrench wasn't necessary for me once you tighten it enough with a ratchet, made it easier and didn't have to use crows foot and open socket. Also note that if you installed bilsteins, the new nut on the top of the front damper will be 19mm instead of 18mm on the video, so don't buy a 18mm open sided socket like me.. Thanks!

[@FaRKle0079]

@@IggyBam Congrats!

[@GeeQ93]

@@FaRKle0079 appreciate your guidance, i will change my oem edc front shocks to oe bilstein b4 edc shocks in one week on my f36 due to leaking. I am not changing shocks first time but on bmw first time. Really helpful to see all specs and tricky points and the tools that i need to add my inventory would i need for the job. I wonder would i need to take the headlight leveling sensor if i use your method please? My car is rwd, thanks.

[@BilboeSwaggins]

Best tutorial I found. Took me 10 hours because of missing tools, broken bits, and just random things lol. If I did it again it would probably take me about 3.5-4 hours.

[@lifebehindbars8750]

Wow! Excellent and detailed tutorial. This has given me the confidence that I could fit these to my M140i rather than pay a garage. Brilliant work, thanks 👌

[@gionet1234]

This video is gold, no other way to put it. Thank you!

[@sehla4]

Very good and informative video. I benefited from it when I was going to do the same job. .... but, I see in this video, like many others the tip to use an impact gun to remove and install end links. As a former car mechanic and today an aviation technician, I get shivers when I hear it again and again. These joints are not designed to spin. They will not fall apart, but their service life will be shortened. The method you use (removing front end link) on your M2 is the one referred to by the manufacturers. Felt I wanted to write it to you as you seem to be serious about doing the right thing in your videos. Keep up the good work 👍.

[@bungl3971]

so glad you included your method which circumvents removal of the axle bolts! I just did the thrust arms with monoball upgrade on my f31 xdrive and noticed my front shocks leaking a bit, now I can procure parts without getting yet another set of those bolts! haha

[@AndyfromSurrey]

Thank you for making this video. I watched it a few times and then changed all the suspension on my M140i on my driveway. Seeing the tools I would need was dead handy too.

[@squarebamboo]

Thanks for this video! By far, this is the most detailed instructions I can find on youtube! I followed your steps to replace bilstein b6 struts and shocks on my 2015 435i xDrive Gran Coupe. However, I want to point out 2 things: 1. Your xDrive way does not work for me, I have to go with BMW way, my rotor simply won't drop from the strut. 2. I bought the crow foot tool, but later found out it does not fit the pass through socket. I was quite frustrated as I can't torque to spec. Then I later found out, you can just use through socket and center hold to get it tight enough, then with tension on the thread, you can use normal socket and torque wrench and torque it to spec without center hold. No crow foot needed. I hope this helps someone!

[@12jfern]

Broooo, I was just wondering how to do this and if that would work! Thanks!

[@milt1916]

2017 440i Gran Coupe RWD here. Got the strut off the steering knuckle with foot pressure, but couldn't get it to drop low enough when putting the new strut (Bilstein B6 Damptronic) in. Also didn't have enough room to rotate the strut and knuckle in through the fender opening. Finally disconnected the ball joint on the LCA and that let the steering knuckle drop enough. I do have the F8x control arms installed, so maybe that makes a difference.

[@phillroslasky9898]

Dude, thank you. I actually feel like I can do this instead of paying the stealership $3600 to do JUST my fronts. Thank you for your detailed video and explaining your "preferred" way vs the "bmw" way, it looks a lot easier than I'd actually thought it was!!

[@Jacknewzero]

The best repair video i've ever seen. Thumbs up!!!

[@brakthru2]

This video was very helpful. The only problem i had was torquing to spec the shock mount to the shock without a pass through torque wrench. I had to wing it. Thank you

[@kingtoros]

Thanks for this exceptionally detailed video. Your decision to flow through and provide both methods in a logical flow instead of splitting into two videos made it easy to compare the methods and validate your suggested way. I used this video this weekend to help a friend swap his front struts and springs on a 2015 xdrive

[@bigfeezy19]

Excellent job, very detail 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾

[@carlalan1880]

thanks the best one i have watched and i have watched a few now after watching this i feel i can do it myself thanks

[@ShowMeWhatINeedToKnow]

DUDE -- THANKS for everything. Your vid saved me a lot of agony doing my rear shocks today. Being prepared helped immensely!

[@FaRKle0079]

Congrats on getting your new shocks in!

[@dmshopper6952]

This is one of the best DIY BMW tutorials I've seen in years. Very informative and your method of swapping the struts on X drive is so much better! Thanks a lot!

[@ericbiggins1645]

Fantastic walk through…thank you! I used the video to install Eibach’s and Koni Yellows this past weekend and this video was a HUGE help. Also, the tool list was awesome to prepare ahead of time for someone who is not a mechanic with limited tools.

[@FaRKle0079]

Congrats on the new setup! Try starting those Konis at full soft and slowly raising the rebound damping from there. You probably wont have to go too far from soft to find the optimal point.

[@jonarchdeacon3761]

Perfect level of detail and explanation

[@none8258]

Never knew crow's feet needed to be at 90°. Thanks for that!

[@RIFF0RAFF]

Thank you! You made an excelent tutorial. Really came in handy for me during installing B6 on M140i XDrive.

[@kokotadack]

Thanks for the great tutorial... Saves a lot of time and avoids extra work with the half shaft!

[@FaRKle0079]

Yup, and you don't have to stress about getting a new collar bolt, or worrying you didn't mate your axle to hub properly either!

[@oksymoroni]

Thanks Farkle!!! Just got done installing Koni Yellows with Eibach springs on my 340i. Your video was the best I've found and it helped tremendously.

[@FaRKle0079]

Glad it helped!

[@philipsimmonds269]

Great video. It gave me the confidence to do mine.

[@Onizukachan915]

Thanks much, was about to disassemble much more than I needed to when installing the front Street Comforts in the f31 tonight. Used your method but since I had new lemforder mounts for the KW, it really was as easy as loosen top mounts remove pinch bolt and sway bar link, then vibrate the knuckle off the strut, then tilt out at bottom to remove. For future viewers note, 3 bolt strut mounts use a larger bolt than featured here 15mm iirc, but the lemforder 3 bolt replacements from ECS use the same smaller shanked bolts the 5 bolts do. Luckily I bought the complete set with gaskets bolts etc. suggest you do the same!

[@davemackie188]

Great tutorial! I'll be changing my struts in a few weeks and this is super helpful.

[@kh1487]

FYI, I used 5/8" spark plug instead of the the 16mm pass though socket for the sway bar link end nut removal. and it is perfect for using crowfoot socket to tight up torque.

[@Glen-yu1qe]

Thx for this tutorial. Yesterday I replaced the stock shocks with Bilstein B6. Peace of cake with this video! Also very handy with those torque specs.

[@FaRKle0079]

Glad it helped you! Enjoy your new dampers!

[@rickylopez5977]

Excellent video. Best described and demonstrated video by far. Look forward to viewing your tutorials!

[@rosspayne8221]

Invaluable walk through thanks. Nice step by step method with a calm delivery, very nice. I’m off for a drive 😅

[@davidmiller4566]

Hi from across the pond. Great video! I’d already installed B16s on my F30 (wish I’d used this tutorial when I did it🙄) anyway, it’s such a transformation over standard. I used it this time as I needed new top mounts and needed reminding of the steps! Your videos are so good, I know this is old and you’ve probably upgraded since but even so, keep up the great work. Recently replaced my sway bar using your video too 👍👍 Cheers uk Dave

[@FaRKle0079]

Thanks Dave! Glad the content is still helpful!

[@stevedixon8457]

Excellent video! A great help when swapping the springs on my F21 M140i. Many thanks from the UK 🙂

[@FaRKle0079]

Glad you found it helpful!

[@DJAdo80]

Thank you so much for this video! I was able to tackle replacing my front struts on my ‘13 F30 335i rwd. I have the electronic dampers so I had to remove the wheel wheel plastic covers to replace the old connection to strut with new ones from Bilsteins. Easy peezy!

[@DJAdo80]

‘Wheel wells’, not wheel wheels :)

[@FaRKle0079]

Congrats! Glad it helped.

[@milt1916]

Hmm. I was wondering why the adapter cables were so long, and how to secure them. On my car, the stock cables would be long enough to work, and I don't understand why Bilstein wouldn't just supply a short adapter cable to connect the stock cable to the strut.

[@black71cuda]

Wow, great tutorial, Andrew!

[@orinoko77]

Very useful video! there are two things I'd like to add counterholds should not be spun, spin the nuts. 2nd some of the bolts need to be torqued but also adder 90° of rotation. You got all the torques right bit not mention about the degrees... on newtis you can look that up.

[@penguin350]

This is amazing, I was really struggling to get the rear camber bolts off though and ended up giving up. Might give it another go with some penetrating oil to see if that loosens them. Also noticed I had some slightly different bolts on my euro F30 328.

[@freisingBoy]

Glad I found your tutorial, great work! Having trouble finding a 18mm 'Difficult Access' socket. Common sizes are 17mm or 19mm, but no 18mm.

[@kevinrtres]

Thank you very much. This is the best video on the topic I've come across so far!!! Also applies specifically to my own car. Once again - thanks a lot!

[@TheBearbertie]

Very clear - best video I've found on this topic

[@nullpointer1984]

I love how are proper and even torquing the swaybar endlink :) I also try to torque everything correctly, really easy to get the correct information for BMWs

[@ScottPC]

Did today on my M140i. Great tutorial. One thing I’d recommend people do is get a impact gun (400nm did me).

[@dsslimone]

Superb video I need to replace the suspension boots/ gaiters. So this in invaluable to me. 😊

[@dsslimone]

I'm thinking of changing renewing the shock absorbers and springs after having a look at them since I'll have everything off to do the boots. I have recently fitted a towbar to tow a caravan possibly once every 5 weeks. Do I have to upgrade springs on the rear. Not really wanting to lower the car want like for like springs. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

[@opmike343]

These videos NEVER mention it, but when working on suspension components, keep a can of PB Blaster handy and soak everything you can the day before in penetrating oil. It'll make disassembly an order of magnitude easier, especially if you live in the rust belt.

[@marianosusuki9849]

Thanks for your thorough tutorial.

[@kjb8321]

Brilliant tutorial, so much detail! Thanks for sharing

[@223Sako]

Outstanding video. Well done for getting so much detail in there.

[@FaRKle0079]

Thanks!

[@tteitei]

Thank you for the tutorial. It was very thorough and helped me replace the bump stops in the rear dampers.

[@krzysztof5776]

This is just fabulous

[@armandosalinas658]

Thank you for this great detailed video, it’s much appreciated! 👍

[@FaRKle0079]

"kpgray" on the F30 Bimmerpost forums kindly made the below checklist of items needed to do the job in this video. Wow, great job to him! Sockets: □ 1/2" and 3/8" Ratchet/s □ 1/2" Breaker Bar/s □ 1/2" and 3/8" Extensions □ 8 MM Standard 5-Bolt Shock Tower □ 10 MM Standard 3-Bolt Shock Tower / Front Plastic Cover Cam Studs □ 13 MM Standard Front Shock Tower Top Strut □ 16 MM Front Strut Clamp Knuckle Nut □ 16 MM-Pass Through Rod Ends / Rear Upper Shock Nut □ 17 MM Wheel Studs □ 18 MM Front Strut Clamp Knuckle Bolt / Rear Shock Bolt □ 18 MM Pass Through Shock Mount Strut / Rear Shock Bolt & Nut □ 21 MM Rear Camber Arm Nut / Bolt Combination Ratcheting Wrenches: □ 13 MM Front Shock Tower Top Strut □ 16 MM Strut Clamp Knuckle Nut □ 18 MM Strut Clamp Knuckle Bolt / Rear Shock Bolt & Nut □ 21 MM Rear Camber Arm Knuckle Bolt or Nut (Could be either) □ 3/4" For Pass Through Sockets (set dependent) Torx Center-hold: □ T30 Long, Rod End (for 16 MM Pass Through Socket above) E-Torx Socket: □ E12 Rear Upper Shock Bolts □ E18 Front Strut Brace Stud / Rear Camber Arm Bolt □ E20 Rear Arm Nut (Could be either OR 20 MM / 21 MM) Hex Allen Wrench: □ 5 MM, can be socket, Rear Shock Upper Mount (with 16 MM Pass Through Socket above) □ 6 MM, can be socket, Front Shock Mount Strut (with 18 MM Pass Through Socket above) Special Tools: □ Outside Spring Compressor □ 1/2" and 3/8" Torque Wrench/s for ranges 10-150 lbs □ Knuckle Spreader (to open strut clamp) (1 required **ESC Tuning # 2652181) □ Crows Foot for Pass Through Sockets ( 19mm or 3/4" optional due to your personal tools usage) □ Trim Tool for Front Strut Rubber Cover Expand Rivet Removal □ 17 MM Male Hex Socket for xDrive Front Axel Wheel Nut (if removing BMW way)* *IMPORTANT NOTE: If removing the Front Axle Wheel Nut DO NOT REUSE (2 required: ECS # 2859492) □ Pick Tool for removal of BMW Wheel Center Cap (if removing 17 MM Front Axle Wheel Nut, the BMW way) □ Pry Tool for xDrive Headlight Leveling Sensor □ Floor Jack □ Jack Stands Front Torques: 32.5 lbs. 16MM Rod End 41.5 lbs. 18 MM Strut Clamp Knuckle 47 lbs. 18 MM Shock Damper 5-Bolt Shock Tower = 22 lbs. (8 MM) 3-Bolt Shock Tower = 41.5 lbs. (10 MM) 103.25 lbs. 17mm Wheel Bolts Rear Torques: 122 lbs. Camber Arm 75 lbs. Shock Bolt 28 lbs. Top Shock Mount (16 MM) 20.65 lbs. E12 Upper Shock Mount 103.25 lbs. 17mm Wheel Bolts NOTES: *IMPORTANT NOTE: If removing the Front Axle Wheel Nut DO NOT REUSE (2 required: **ECS # 2859492) ** Special Note: ESC Tuning: www.ecstuning.com/

[@TrackandBuild]

The front strut clamp knuckle torque should be 32 ft lbs as indicated in the video plus 90 degree turn

[@FaRKle0079]

@@TrackandBuild Yup, but you only want to do the +90deg if using a new bolt, otherwise you'll have "double stretched" a used one.

[@NeoxX317]

Fantastic!!! Thank you so much !! I am still hesitating doing the B6 installation myself on my F20.. Also i have been told to buy new bump stoppers at the front and rear + shock absorber bellows (to prevent dust - whatever you call it - im french haha). What do you guys think ? I cant just use the old ones ? Plus this video says we dont need bump stoppers for front absorber as its integrated in the damper.

[@aloco62]

Thank you so much for this video. Great information and details.🙏🏼🙏🏼

[@uzeyourillusion]

Perfectly described and demonstrated 👌

[@CatalinIonut98]

Man I wish I saw this video before I did my rear shocks. I managed to strip both hex’s and it was an ordeal to torque them. I didn’t mangă to reach 38Nm but it think it should be fine as they are locking nuts.

[@FaRKle0079]

Luckily the rears don't really need to be at full torque spec, and if you used nylock type locking nuts, those actually use a lower torque spec (stated in the damper mfg's instructions).

[@CatalinIonut98]

@@FaRKle0079unfortunately I did not had the nylon lock nut and I've used new oem style. Although I don't think they would back up either. As they are also locking nuts. Last 2-3 threads are deformed intentionally .

[@dopiaza2006]

A full aligment is essential afterwards too

[@flyro2000]

Great video mate! Going to be putting Bilstein's on my M135i soon :)

[@tonyplatano1850]

Great tutorial - very detailed, and lots of helpful tips!

[@Hubscharber]

Wonderful video! I found my front left adaptive damper leaking, so was not looking forward to parts + labor from a garage on this one; will do it myself! One thing I noticed, TIS recommends replacing the hardware and doing the torque values like you mentioned + 90* - any reason to reuse old components?

[@FaRKle0079]

If you're only going to do this once, it's not much to replace a lot of the fasteners. If you constantly tinker, and play with adjustments, then that adds a decent amount of cost and logistics making sure you have a whole set every time you want to go in there.

[@beekone28]

thank you for the good tutorial. I am much better prepared to start this job myself.

[@joshuaquinton6010]

Would the car throw any codes or faults if the new Bilsteins do not have EDC? I am new to BMW’s and I’m having a difficult time finding the proper replacement struts for my RWD 435i. I would prefer to purchase struts without EDC since they’re more readily available, but I’m afraid to run into larger problems. Amazing Tutorial!

[@FaRKle0079]

Yes, unfortunately you'll get errors if you disconnect your EDC dampers. That said it's possible to program/code the EDC system off in your car to allow you to run regular non-EDC dampers just fine. This is what I did for my car and I offer that service (can be done remotely as long as you have a windows laptop with ethernet port and an obd2 to ethernet cable).

[@Bad-Alias]

thank you for this how to guide

[@sammynice6253]

Awesome tutorial... Thank You :)

[@KingRoyalTV]

Great video! Very informative!

[@goatirex]

Top merci , je me posais quelques questions pour le remplacement des ressorts courts sur mon Xdrive , me voila rassuré ! merci

[@ml-rs9tt]

thanks bro, great guide.

[@christophera1244]

Guys there is a good reason to get the nicer spring compressor.. trust me. I’m in the process of wrestling with the cheap one and its burning hours and a total pain

[@ravingjackal]

Hi bro. Same story here. Had to abort mission and rather look at buying a decent spring compressor

[@mickl6867]

@FaRKle0079 Excellent detailed DIY! I’ll be following this guide when installing B6 Damptronics on my 440i RWD next week. Thanks 👍

[@FaRKle0079]

Thanks and congrats on the new dampers!

[@mickl6867]

FaRKle0079 Would it be ok to reuse the front top strut mounts as the vehicle has cover 50k miles or replace with new?

[@FaRKle0079]

@@mickl6867 The top mounts are probably fine. What would degrade in them is the rubber encapsulating the part where the damper piston mounts to the top mount and the plastic thrust bearing on the underside. Typically it's the thrust bearing that gives out first due to dirt/contamination getting in there. If that doesn't spin well, then I'd get a new assembly. I had my top mounts for like 60k mi before swapping to camber plates and both the rubber and thrust bearings were fine.

[@kaibinrubber]

Great video!

[@groef400]

Thank you for the video! Very detailed. I have a question though. How far does the new front strut go into the knuckle? It looks to me you can push it as far as you want in the knuckle? There is no stop for it?

[@the_romantik7932]

Very Nice video 👍👍👍

[@mtagher]

Great video. Well done!

[@sethmoreadith6619]

Love the video! Just ordered b8 shocks and H & R springs will definitely be using this when I go to install them. Will adjustable/aftermarket end links be needed for the setup I ordered? If so do you have any recommendations and what length? Thanks!

[@FaRKle0079]

You won't "need" adjustable end links, but they're nice to have. I like the KC Design ones I have, but I'd say more importantly is to look for ones with boots over the ball joints if you drive the car in dirty/wet conditions.

[@dorianblach587]

Great job. Much appreciated.

[@zanderlukas1248]

Hey, thanks for the tips this DIY video is great. Would you happen to know if the F34 GT is the same?

[@darkelectroster]

Hi. I did everything your way and it was very easy for me. Thank you for the guide :D But now I have a problem. While driving, you can hear a rhythmic knocking noise from the front all the time. When I'm driving on a nice, even road at low speed, when it's quiet, the knocking noise is very loud and audible. Is it possible that the front axle has popped out of place? Is there a possibility that this is it? And that you just have to press it in without taking everything apart? Now I can't go back 30 miles to check it, and the workshop won't be able to accept me until next week...

[@FaRKle0079]

The front axles shouldn't have been able to separate from the knuckle/hub at all. Front axles can sometimes pop closer to where they go into the diff/support bearing, but this is usually if you completely slam the car's ride height down. Hopefully you didn't use struts/dampers meant for RWD cars since those will contact the CV boot and tear it. If you can put the front of the car in the air you can try to rotate the wheel by hand and see if you notice anything making the noise you hear.

[@darkelectroster]

@@FaRKle0079 Thank You for answer. I used springs dedicated for xdrive. Eibach Pro Kit E10-20-031-02-22, it lowers car 10-20 mm. I struggled when i had to put strut into carrier. I had to wiggle it around, maybe then I did something to axle? Funny thing, the knocking sound dissapear when i turn steering wheel slightly left, and in that one point noise dissapear completly.

[@johanmartin9075]

Thanks for this video

[@VVH1997]

thank you very much for doing this

[@semi-chubber2388]

You the man FaRKle !!

[@nickgnjatovic9535]

Superb!

[@chaoxue9028]

Excellent tutorial, thanks for sharing~ Is the suspension set in the video M performance spring + bilstein b6? According to your theory, bilstein b6 is so overdamped for stock springs or even eibach pro kit springs for f3x platform, so will the bilstein B6/B8 still overdamped if paired with M performance springs? I am considering this spring shock combo recently😁

[@vin605]

Very informative thanks for sharing

[@youliangyi3346]

Thank you for this, it is very detailed. I want to upgrade my suspension, i've got 2017 340i, i knew the damper is the issue, but EDC makes upgrade option very limited. I probably will go BILSTEIN B6 Dampertonic, should I go Spring first? I want ACS springs. But I do want to keep the standard ride height.I am so confused. Please share some experience with me. I saw you did a lot of F30 suspension upgrades.

[@FaRKle0079]

For coilovers you can go to non EDC versions. You'll either have to use a EDC delete/blank off kit, or disconnect the EDC module in the trunk and code out EDC from the car. If you want to go to stiffer springs but don't want to lower the height you'll have to look at getting springs from other models, like F8x, F33, or F34. Some of those springs should allow you to maintain your current height but be stiffer. You'll need to find someone with the special knowledge of those spring rates and lengths though.

[@youliangyi3346]

@@FaRKle0079 Thanks for the advise, I will ask few local shop see if they can coding my BMW, i am in Australia. If i can non EDC suspension,option will be a lot more to choose from. Yeah I probably should look for those springs if I really want to keep the ride height.

[@kevinrtres]

Mmmmhhhh, so the DIY person has to be sure to lift the car high enough to allow the knuckle assembly to drop down far enough to release the strut. Not an easy thing to do with jack and jack-stands....just a thought.....from someone who is contemplating doing this. Please let me know if I'm mistaken. Thanks.

[@YSCDIY]

Nice video, I have a question about the 18mm pass-through with 6mm counterhold. I saw my mechanic installed my new strut and coil spring without the 6mm counterhold. He just use a socket wrench to tie up the strut and mount. Does that cause strut and mount tie-up not properly? Thank you for your answer.

[@FaRKle0079]

If he was able to hold the strut shaft securely some other way, he might not have needed the 6mm hex counter hold.

[@hass1005]

Wow awesome job, I have a small question, let’s say hypothetically you need to replace the front struts would go OEM for 700$ or Bilstein B4 for 400$ ? Appreciate your feedback !

[@FaRKle0079]

If the rear dampers stayed stock, then I'd look to use OEM dampers for the front. If I was changing all four, I might be more inclined to do the B4s. As much as Bilstein says the B4 is a OE replacement, they use the exact same part number for every F2x/F3x, versus BMW having different PNs (and damping curves) for every individual model.

[@alexguajardo8352]

Great video! I have a 2013 BMW X5 xdrive 35i with active suspension system. Can I replace the struts with ones with no active suspension? Thanks for your help!

[@FaRKle0079]

You can replace your front dampers with non EDC ones, but you'll need to replace the rear dampers with non-EDC ones too. Then you'll need to either code out EDC from the car (so the car doesn't think it has that option) or use dummy terminators for the cables so the car thinks it still has EDC dampers.

[@alexguajardo8352]

@@FaRKle0079 thanks for the information! I appreciate it!

[@redman4419]

Pro detail explain 👍🏽👍🏽👌🏽

[@hellothere9262]

Great video! Can you answer a question for me? Did you replace all the nuts and bolts you used or just re use the ones that were on there? Replacing mine soon and I'll definitely be revisiting your video during the install. Thanks so much for such an awesome and detailed video, it's very much appreciated!

[@FaRKle0079]

I reused all of the nuts/bolts. BMW would like you to use new ones for some of them, but that's unnecessary. Just make sure you only tighten them to their fastening torque spec and not torque to yield spec (typically fastening torque +90deg).

[@hellothere9262]

@@FaRKle0079 Great, thanks for the reply and the great video. It's helped immensely in figuring out the tools and I'm sure it'll be even more helpful when I do the install.

[@karmaseesall]

one of the most valuable pieces of info in here. thank you!

[@Oranga1086]

Awesome tutorial! One question, why is it okay to torque the rear bolts while the car is in the air, but not the fronts?

[@FaRKle0079]

The only things that need to get torqued "at ride height" are connections involving rubber bushings. In the front nothing being taken apart is a rubber bushing. In the rear though the lower damper to camber arm mount is a rubber bushing.

[@tonyl350]

@FaRkLe0079 great DIY video. noticed in beginning you had edc. i would like to ask, did the your new strut/ shocks come with edc plug in location?

[@FaRKle0079]

I coded EDC out and disconnected the module. My Fat Cat Motorsports suspension setup is passive. I don't miss EDC.

[@jl2622]

❤ thank you

[@adamdavies7120]

Great Vid. I didn't realize you could swap out the adaptive shocks and replace it with standard shocks. What did you use to code out the EDC?

[@FaRKle0079]

I used ESYS to code out EDC.

[@TimtheGOAT]

I’m thinking about doing mine myself but a bit nervous. It’s a 2015 335 xdrive

[@FaRKle0079]

Hopefully the video gives you the confidence to DIY!

[@TimtheGOAT]

I’m considering the kw coilovers v2 for the 2015 335i. The installation should be about same?

[@FaRKle0079]

@@TimtheGOAT Yes, the installation is almost exactly the same. The KWs will probably have different sized top nuts to secure the dampers to the top mounts.

[@richardbutterworth1216]

Great work! Which bilstein shocks and springs are these? Cheers

[@scottycuk]

if RWD would you suggest doing it your way rather than pull the knuckle and stut down together?

[@RapGali]

Any tips on how to get enough compression on the spring? I'm using the same tool but cannot get enough compression to fit the top. I just about managed to remove it but now can't put it back in 😢

[@FaRKle0079]

Wow, I'm really surprised with the type of spring compressor I used you can't get enough compression. Even with it fully tightened down you're unable to put weight/force on the top mount to compress the spring enough to get the nut started?

[@raldyjimenez3319]

Hi just want to ask for your feedback on the ride experience with your Bilstein B6 if you don’t mind. I am thinking of upgrading to Bilstein B6 Damptronic for my 2018 F36 xDrive and not sure if this upgrade would totally compromise the ride quality. Thank in advance and hoping for your feedback

[@jamesssss621]

New to bimmers and bought some Vogtland springs for my 17 x3. Does f2x mean this tutorial applies to my f25?

[@FaRKle0079]

It was meant for the F2x/F3x cars, not SUVs unfortunately. That said, the F25 suspension layout is super similar to the cars'. IIRC the rear spring is a coil over though.

[@Sierra747]

Great video. So can you remove the front strut on a rwd using your xdrive way by lowering the knuckle and removing the strut out sideways and removing it bottom end first? It sounds easier than the the rwd way and pulling the top end out first?

[@FaRKle0079]

Probably not. The strut is longer on the bottom and extends further through the knuckle. This requires the knuckle to drop further down to clear it when trying it that way. To make it easier for yourself only loosen the strut to top mount nut as much as needed so you can continue to disassemble it once the strut is out. That way the assembly stays as compact as possible and is easier to tilt out of the wheel well.

[@Sierra747]

FaRKle0079 thanks for replying. Just wanted to know if rwd cars were the same or not. I read it’s tricky to get the struts out in rwd cars and some people compress the spring before removing the strut from the car if they can get their compressors to fit as there isn’t much room.

[@limaiemheykel]

Why did you have to remove the 17mm collar bolt?

[@MykhailoLopandia]

64 Nm torque should be applied to top nut when spring is compressed, isn't it?