Farmall Cub Hilling Potatoes

Our 1953 Farmall Cub hills potatoes for the first time with a pair of 16" discs I got from Agri-Supply. This is the first year in over 20 years that I haven't had to hill by hand. The 8 rows that I hill in this video equal about 1050 feet and only took about 5 minutes. By hand, I hate to think how long it would have taken me to do the same! Find us on optvideo on instagram and facebook. Also you can help support the channel at paypal.me/ourpassthyme or patreon/ourpassthyme, thanks!
#ihc #farm #farmall #mccormick #tractor #cub #trending

[@bbruce995]

the most beautiful tractor ever made, the farmall cub is wonderful

[@Gibson_Branch]

I've got a 1949 Farmall Cub, I wouldn't take anything for it. Looks like you've got yours dialed in just about perfect. Very satisfying when it all works out. This year is our first year to have any rear plows because our tractor didn't have it when we bought it, and it makes a world of difference having the rear hooked up. They are amazing machines!

[@SteelyPaw]

Best little tractor on the planet, even by today's standards. Hard to believe it's lucky to have 15 HP and do that kind of work.. These tractor were bullet proof for the times. Judging by this tractor they still are..

[@OurPassThyme]

Actually the cubs are rated for about 8.5 HP but its the 80:1 gearing that makes them practically unstoppable! Originally, the manufacturer figured on about 7 years of life out of these cubs, but as you can tell, this one is still going strong!

[@SteelyPaw]

Yep.. I read on google depending on when these tractors were built they had 8 hp then the later models were up around 15. And yes I agree with you, very tough tractor. I think all the 50's and 60's tractors including Farmall H and M were really built to last even if intended.

[@chuckmason7930]

The 8 HP figure was drawbar HP. The flywheel HP for the 1,600 rpm model was 12. When it went to 1,800, this rose to 14 HP, and 10 at the hitch.

[@travissutton2294]

Even tho this is 8 years old thank you for doing it. Long story short, I just picked up a cub that belonged to my wife's grand father and then her uncle. I have the same attachments and was unsure of how to use them. I've had gardens in the past but never my own tractor. This helps me a lot. Thank you.

[@OurPassThyme]

Hopefully you get a chance to check out some of my other videos with Cubs and attachments, I have quite a few videos.

[@travissutton2294]

@@OurPassThyme I'll be sure to do so. Thank you.

[@colincox1whichnet]

Thank for your time taken to do this video, but I guess you have the time now, as the cub is doing all the work. Its great when a plan comes together.:-) I have a Farmall IH 140 a descendent of the cub, and I have just decided that rear hillers is a good solution, the 16 discs give a much better result that the 12 " which I have been using under belly .

[@OurPassThyme]

colincox1whichnet The only problem with the cub is one hydraulic lever controls both front and rear cultivator units. When I have planted a full row, I 'miss' the last 5 feet and have to turn around a head down the row again. The other morning I got up at 5AM, set up the cub for hilling, and by 5:45 AM, I had completed my 27 potato rows each 75 feet long.

[@kurtjones8207]

Actually, the 140 is the descendant of the A (super A, 100, 130) and that came before the Cub

[@carlosandresperezaponte3669]

gracias por el video, con esta maquinita y su equipo se ahorra tiempo y algo de dinero, cultivando la siembra para la casa y porque no una siembra mayor.-

[@jamesranger6283]

Hell of a tool. Nice.

[@OurPassThyme]

65 years later and it shows no sign of slowing down yet!

[@MrjackieG]

I put my hillers under the motor on the belly mount. Easier to maintain a line of sight.

[@OurPassThyme]

Having the cultivators under the belly loosens the soil up really nice and then the rear position of the disc hillers makes very pretty hills. As long as I have the cultivators in the correct place and line up the hillers with the cultivator I can use the cultivators as my line of sight

[@TheDuckofDoom.]

You shouldn't set the cultivators that deep, you are probably damaging a lot of feeder roots (and putting unnessesary wear on the tractor). Those bedding disks only look like they are deep because of the plowing action, they really aren't digging more than about 2 inches. If the cultivators raise and lower at the same rate as the bedders (one inch per one inch) then I would go to flat ground and set the bedders on a ¾" board and the cultivator spikes on the ground as the initial setup.

[@bricemosher2386]

What size disc have you found to work best. I just got a cub and this looks like an awesome setup.

[@OurPassThyme]

The discs in this video are 16 inches in diameter and are about a big as you can go for a cub for hilling, at least to lift up and move around to and from the garden. You only need short shafted discs. I believe the official cub discs are 12 inch diameter, but I wanted to make sure I had as much coverage around the potatoes as possible. I got them thru Agri-Supply online and they fit in the standard cultivator clamps.

[@bricemosher2386]

Our Pass Thyme thanks! I found some and will be doing tests once my ground thaws enough.

[@craigsmith3614]

I bought my ole mans 1951 cub and I am trying to find cultivating attachments for it I'm in the york county area. Thanks in advance for any help

[@OurPassThyme]

Craig, join the farmallcub.com club, it's free, they have a classified section on the site called "the Vine" and there is a guy selling a complete set of cultivators in Mass currently. Another good resource not too far away is TMtractor.com out of Windham.

[@jonathanstlawrence1132]

How far apart should I plant my rows so I can hill them ? I just got a super a. Haven't used it yet

[@OurPassThyme]

If you have the space, set your wheels as wide as they go.

[@OurPassThyme]

By setting your wheels wide you can use that as your row markers that's what I did with my cub, then I would line the next row up by setting my tire one tire width next to the previous tire marks in the garden, I had tons of space for what I was planting so I could get away with that then I also had plenty of dirt to hill multiple times as the plants grow

[@TheDuckofDoom.]

The big professionals tend to use 36 in row space, and just stop driving in the field after the canopy closes off the aisles(shading out weeds). But I think the narrowest you can go with a super A is 48 or 50 inch depending on which tires and wheel you have. I don't know the widest setting fror a Super A, the IH140 can go out to 72 inches, which would straddle two 36 inch rows. With single row cultivators and bedders you would offset the tools to the right (or left), do the first row from end A to B, then turn around into the same wheel tracks to do the second row from B to A. Assuming you plant 2-4 inches deep (top of seed to level ground) then you only need to hill 6 inches above original level ground by the last hilling. Hilling is mostly to prevent green spuds and cover weeds, it doesn't have a large effect on total yield. High hilling around tuber initiation just causes the plant to reabsorb some low tubers and spread out tubers in a larger vertical range. If you broadcast fertilizer pre-plant, rather than banding, hilling also serves to bring more fertilized dirt from the aisle to the root zone The hill shape matters for rain catching or shedding as your climate and soil type calls for. Wide-top hills (almost like a mini hill on each side of the plant) to catch water, peaked hills to shed water.