Farmall H Removing Rusted Bolt With Candle Wax

Dealing with rust and old parts can at times almost be turned into an art-form. It takes no particular skill to deal with rust, but it does take patience. It takes years for rust to form a bond so tightly between two pieces of ferrous material that they almost 'bond' into one. Kinda like an old married couple that seems to be 'joined at the hip'... common sense tells you as the antagonist in the story of "The Rusty Bond" that its going to be a difficult battle to separate them. Moisture is the beg contributor to their bonding story and heat is the big detractor. Add to that heat a method to lubricate and you can easily win the battle....most of the time. There will be failures, but they will be minimal providing the above mentioned virtue sits well within your ability to benefit. Losing patience at the critical moment will not only cost you the battle of the rusty bond, it will deal you another hand that will be much more difficult to play. Losing patience will leave you with a sheared off bolt or stud at the surface or heaven forbid below the surface. THAT, my friends is by far more difficult to deal with than figuring out beforehand how to properly destroy the hold that the rust has on the two components. This is just one of the techniques that works wonders.
Enter the candle....birthday candle, votive candle, decorative candle....it doesn't matter...well it might matter a little because I don't know if 'bikini wax' will work for sure. I even have the remnants of an old Catholic baptismal candle that's two inches in diameter. It has been serving me for two decades....but I digress. Not the story here..... Back to the candle making the grand entrance to the party. Well, it just can't be a lone candle, there has to be a source of heat and as you will note in the video the preferred source of heat is the oxygen/acetylene torch. The cast iron of the tractor housing has entirely different qualities when subjected to heat as compared to the grade 5 or grade 8 bolts that attach to it. The bolts, no matter the hardness will almost always attract a lot more heat proportionally than the cast. The bolts get hotter quicker and release the heat quicker than the mass of the cast. As the two metals heat and cool at different rates, the rust that hasn't been literally burnt off by the heating process begins to loosen its grip on the individual components. At that critical time, the interjection of the candle wax becomes the lubricant. It will on occasion burst into flame, so wait for a minute for it to cool, then re-apply. Oil and other spray products work as well, but seem to ignite quicker and burn themselves off the surface before they get the opportunity to penetrate to the bottom of the threads. THAT's the benefit to the wax. It penetrates pretty much thoroughly down the full length of the threads, depending on the depth of the heat transfer.
Remember the most important ingredient in the recipe for destroying the tight bond the rust has on the components is....is....PATIENCE !! Heating the bolt to a color of red or orange removes a good percentage of the hardness, so it can be snapped off with relative ease. Gently but firmly apply force both directions while hot, but back to the color of steel....if no movement, reapply the heat and wax then repeat. As the bolt or nut begins to move, (IF it begins to move), a good practice is to now add a bit of oil or a spray product to gain lubrication to the recalcitrant bolt, stud or nut.
As with all the videos from my cluttered shop, do not do the things I do...but if you do, always do the activities with safety in mind.

[@tomwalker9184]

I love watching a GENIUS working with Surgical Precision. Wendell your videos are the modern day of writing books.

[@tractorman4461]

Hahahaha...you're killin' me Tom. But I love it !! I like to think of it as someone that gets real lucky sometimes.....LOL.

[@mrmerkin6203]

A pleasure to watch a no BS vid. Thanks!

[@tractorman4461]

Well, thank you. I appreciate a sincere comment. Have you found the playlist on this H up above..?? It covers ALL the simple maintenance to getting this tractor into a daily driver. Here is is for your convenience. I bet you will NOT be too disappointed with the string of videos. kzbin.info/aero/PLk72G9DTzZ1u4HTcEVKC3ehyV_UsFYaAG Thank you for watching today.

[@mikeadams2339]

Thankz for the tip. I also like that i bolt in your vice grip.

[@tractorman4461]

Hahahaha...I told someone above I was changing out a 40 or 50 hp electric motor one day many years ago and I looked at that lifting eye and thought...I think that's the same thread as the adjuster. And the rest, like they say, is history. It's been in that set for 20+ years easily. But I just weld 3/4 or 7/8 nuts to the adjuster on other ones. Its to tie a rope to for pulling sheet metal and other stuff to the roof tops. Thanks Mike for the visit my friend.

[@bubbagump4686]

Very slick process you go there. See that , them bees got something going on there............ You are all the buzz now. Thanks for the tip TM.

[@tractorman4461]

Hahahaha....one thing for sure heat work by itself, but adding the wax improves it big time. You can use all kinds of other stuff but most petroleum based products flash off pretty quick until it cools down a lot. Thanks for the grin BubbaG !!

[@peterkober6758]

44 never seen this now we got another tool in the box thanks God Bless All PaK

[@tractorman4461]

Great Peter, glad to hear you might have benefitted from the video. I tell you, it does work. But there are a great number of tricks to play on this situation. Patience is still the key though.

[@FanjetRG]

Great video as usual. I’m gonna try that method the next time I have a stuck bolt. You are a tremendous mechanic...

[@tractorman4461]

Thanks Raymond for the very kind comment. I'm not really a mechanic....just a guy that too cheap to pay others to work on stuff...LOL Thanks for watching and I'm glad you enjoyed it !

[@RCAFpolarexpress]

Great tricks Sir I never ever saw that before !!! I will try that for sure that ( The Rusty Bond ) !!! Fun mention about your Catholic Baptismal candle use,,, Cheers !!!

[@tractorman4461]

Hahahaha....I see you read the description again....LOL. I try to make those entertaining just in case the video turns out to be boring....LOL. Thanks mon ami for the visit.

[@RCAFpolarexpress]

@@tractorman4461 Your written descriptions are as great as your videos and vice and versa Sir LOL !!! Bonne journée mon ami !

[@tractorman4461]

@@RCAFpolarexpress You, my friend, are much too kind....but then again, you ARE Canadian.. LOL. Thank you for the additional comment buddy.

[@RCAFpolarexpress]

@@tractorman4461 LOL American are also good peoples Sir !!! Bonne nuit Mon Ami !!! Cheers

[@akquilter3519]

Your Baptismal candle may be decades old but glad you still have it around. One never knows when it will come in handy. Of course, I never would have guessed it would be used for this particular problem. It proves one is never too old to learn something new. Will keep this info in my 'archives' of gray matter. Keep on teaching us with your informative , to the point, videos.

[@tractorman4461]

Well I have to admit it wasn't MY baptismal candle. It is one of those huge ones the alter boys would light with the long handle lighter. Remember, they had the big brass cap on top to make it burn evenly. Somehow about a foot and a half ended up in a yard sale still adorned with all those fancy colored moldings up and down the side. Might technically be a bit sacrilegious, but then ya gotta think about all the renewed life was breathed back into a number of machines because of the Baptismal candle. You know, come to think of it it might just be an Easter Candle. LOL. Oh well, it came from some church somewhere.....!!!

[@316jd140]

Great learning video. Candle was, my wife has a lot of the scented candles, now I have a good use for them.

[@tractorman4461]

I buy them for pennies at yard sales. The Missus would 'brain' me if I raided her box of Christmas decorating candles. LOL...I do believe you are becoming a bad influence..... Thanks for the visit my friend.

[@regsparkes6507]

You taught me one more 'trick' to use. I've heard of this, but only fleetingly, now that I've seen this done, I'll use it. I hope I don't have to. but if I do, now I'm armed! Cheers & Thank you W!

[@tractorman4461]

Well Reg, when you have as many rusty items to work on as I do you try any means possible to avoid additional damage. That ALWAYS adds up to more time invested than just going slow and methodically. Soooo what you're saying is...an old dog CAN be taught a new trick.... LOL. Just let the metal cool slightly to almost a faded red and if it ignites, the wax just let it cool a tad bit more. Your petroleum based lubes will literally either burst into flames or smoke away to nothing whereas you can watch the liquefying wax just disappear down around the threads at the same temp. Thanks for the quick morning visit my friend.

[@regsparkes6507]

@@tractorman4461 arrf... arrf !

[@tractorman4461]

@@regsparkes6507 LOL

[@WildBill1122]

That is a good trick there. Works well. Great video.

[@tractorman4461]

Thanks man...it sure comes in handy on rusty stuff for sure. Thanks Wild Bill for the comment

[@ramonortiz5651]

I learn something new today now I know the power of candle wax lol thanks for another great video.👍👍

[@tractorman4461]

Excellent Ramon !! Glad to hear you enjoyed the effort. Man, that one WAS stuck pretty good too.

[@AmericanTradesmen]

That’s a trick I’m gonna hang onto...thanks for another great video!

[@tractorman4461]

You can use all kinds of other stuff...50/50 acetone and ATF works well, but with any petroleum based lubricant, it will burst into flames almost immediately whereas wax seems to wick into the heated joint pretty well. Now it WILL burst into flames as well, just wait a minute and touch it again and watch it suck right around the base of the broken bolt. Thanks guys for the kind comment. You'll get the chance to use it pretty soon by the look of some of the things you guys get involved with.

[@AmericanTradesmen]

Not that I’m looking forward to using the trick, you’re probably right. I’ll be using it sooner than I think!

[@tractorman4461]

@@AmericanTradesmen yep...no doubt !! LOL

[@1lilfarm]

Might have been another spot water was getting in the differential? Never used the candle wax trick. I'll definitely have to try it. Thanks. 👍👍👍

[@tractorman4461]

Yes, that was the first thing I thought of as well. I mean this thing was solid rust top to bottom so it stands to reason its just been soaking in water every time it rains. Patience is the key with destroying a rusty joint !! More guys have busted cast hubs on old tractors because of impatience. I've soaked Massey Hubs literally weeks on end with 50-50 acetone/ATF, keeping them under pressure with a 40 ton hydraulic jack. Cast hubs can be pretty easily cracked with too much heat though...use sparingly in that case. Good to hear from you again. Thanks for watching !!

[@DIYMyWay]

That’s amazing, Wendell! I bow to your superior know-how and skills! Great tip and technique! Thanks for sharing!

[@tractorman4461]

You know ...when it comes to cutting material a plasma torch is superior for the most part.....but....when it comes to heating a part to bend into shape or in this case to separate, the cutting torch or rosebud doesn't take second place to anything in your toolbox. Thanks Martin for the cool comment my friend.

[@KainKustomGarage]

Super cool! I've seen an old truck driver buddy use that method before on big truck stuff!

[@tractorman4461]

I have used it on many many things. It's great when you absolutely cannot destroy one piece or the other. If its something that doesn't matter because its easily replaceable you can just torch the heck out of it...but the candle wax adds just that little bit of finesse to the situation....LOL Can you imagine snapping a bolt off an inch down inside the final drive housing here? Whoa buddy. That creates a whole different repair now.

[@KainKustomGarage]

@@tractorman4461 I know right! Awesome job!

[@markjoudrey7036]

Awesome Tip! Will have to give it a try.Thanks MJ

[@tractorman4461]

Heck Yeah Mark, try it....you'll like it. It may take a time or two to figure out the perfect time to apply the wax to the cooling parts, but in general you will be successful...just don't force it to much. Remember the bolt softens when heated, so it will twist off pretty easily.

[@GrampiesWorkshop]

How's she goin'? Nice job Wendel!!! I have never seen this trick before. We have often heated the stud and then gently tap on them as you try and break it loose. This was a nice method though and especially when working an cast housings. It's worth remembering. Take care!!

[@tractorman4461]

Heat works wonders...sometimes even on a tight or squeaky joint in the ol' body !! LOL. You'll just be able to watch the melting wax wick right down into the piece around the bolt. And it doesn't flash off immediately like a petroleum based lubricant...even WD-40 burns right off. The wax WILL ignite, but not nearly as quickly....but don't apply it while its still red or orange hot either. LOL Thanks for the visit Mike. Take Care my friend !!

[@vernejohnson8589]

Tractoman 44, you are absolutely a genius, I thought I've seen and heard them all, but you proved me wrong, normally I'll heat something up and use WD-40, what you showed me is fantastic, I'll have to give it a try next time ⏲️, thanx old buddy. Verne Johnson Farmall kid

[@tractorman4461]

Hahahaha....I don't think I'd go quite that far, but thank you for the awesome vote of confidence. The big trick with ANY rusted/stuck bolt is patience. The candle wax seldom fails me though. Another great concoction is a 50/50 mix of acetone (auto parts store) and ATF. The acetone immediately wicks through the rust and carries along with it the now 'thinned' transmission fluid. A few applications and then an impact first in reverse then forward, then repeat the process. It usually ends up with a good result too.

[@markrose9644]

Great idea, thanks

[@tractorman4461]

You are welcome, just an FYI if you're not too familiar with using a torch. Remember handling one is a lot like handling a pretty lady....do it wrong and they'll both burn you real quick. Thanks Mark for watching and commenting. And of course I was joking about the comparison....(kinda). LOL

[@markrose9644]

I use Map gas, will that get it hot enough?

[@tractorman4461]

@@markrose9644 Yes, for sure with small parts, but the larger the surrounding mass is, the greater the heat potential needs to be. A large mass such as this housing would suck away most of the mapp gas torches ability to heat specifically what you want to heat. Which is why the high heat content of the oxy acetylene is so good. High content and concentrated with the relative small flame will still warm the mass, but super heat the rusted part to begin destroying the rust bond. And yes, when convenient I use mapp as well....but on smaller items. All I can say is if you've got it go ahead and use it, can't hurt. Remember also overheating cast could cause it to crack when cooling. Good luck with the process Mark.

[@powrguy1696]

Yeah; most guys are not patient and try to use a 3' pipe on the vise grips, and snap it right off. Heating and waxing a couple of times USUALLY can get it to break free, but there's always ONE that refuses to let go. Nice job.

[@tractorman4461]

Man....you said it right there !! There's ALWAYS the one that kick you in the rear....LOL Thanks Powrguy for the chuckle this evening !!

[@thesmallwoodlot433]

I have used that method so many time i thought my head was spinning, it does work great, the trick is your patience as you stated! And i think it works better then penetrating oil, because i think when the hit the hot bolt, they flash off, instead of wicking into the threads.

[@tractorman4461]

Heck yeah, its a tried and true technique to just about anyone who works on rusty stuff !! Thanks for corroborating the story on how good this works !!

[@thesmallwoodlot433]

I remember a tire tech, trying to change the tires on my 1970 dodge1 1/2 ton truck... one side came off with out a problem, 8 busted studs later on the full floater rear axle, he went to the front with a 1 inch impact and set for right handed threads before getting stopped by me, telling him left handed threads do not require a bigger hammer! His boss was not impressed!

[@tractorman4461]

@@thesmallwoodlot433 hahahahaha...there's lots of guys make that mistake. Doggone Chrysler products and those wrong way threads on half the vehicle !!

[@thesmallwoodlot433]

@@tractorman4461 yes but most of them don’t brake all the studs on a wheel before asking a simple question!😂🤣😂🤣

[@tractorman4461]

@@thesmallwoodlot433 Well you would think that they would think something just ain’t right with this picture. And search for an answer.

[@GPOutdoors]

Morning T! LOL. Man, just when I thought you were out of tricks, you never disappoint. Always one left up your sleeve. I have never heard of that before, but that worked really well. Thanks for sharing! Hope you are well my friend!

[@tractorman4461]

Yes sir, things are going well. There's just not enough time in the days for me....Always running behind on everything !! LOL. I'm literally amazed that you can find the time to stop in for a visit and I thank you for it GP. Hope all is well for you this wonderful Spring too !!

[@tectalabyss]

Well done ! I have heard of this but never had to use it yet. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, with the rest of us. Liked,shared. All my very best.

[@tractorman4461]

Thank you Bobby for your continued support !! Slow and steady wins the race with rusty stuff. I appreciate you sharing my friend.

[@johnnyvannoy8931]

Awesome tip !

[@tractorman4461]

Glad to see you got a little something out of it. Heat alone will work pretty well, but the addition of the candle wax provides the needed lubricant to allow the threads to move easier. Gotta remember, now that the bolt has been heated, it will be softer and more prone to twisting off. Lube is the way to minimize that potential disaster. Thanks Johnny for the comment !!

[@fricknjeep]

hi there nice trick john

[@tractorman4461]

I figure a lot of guys like us have been using this for years. Thanks John for stopping in.

[@deutzmans1]

Good patient work ,for those without a gas torch welding a nut on often gets the stud hot and gives a good grip for unscrewing also a few taps with a hammer seem to help . I look forward to your enthusiastic and informative videos

[@tractorman4461]

Yes, that is correct. I do that quite often burning it in as hot as possible. I didn't entertain that idea here because of the open transmission/final drive housing. On the video removing the transmission cover, I had to weld a big nut on top of a rounded off assembly bolt. Thanks for letting me know you look forward to these videos. I made one last night on a much different subject. My son's well went out after supper and I had to run down to troubleshoot it. So that will be a different sort of video....LOL But whatever comes up is what goes down... Thanks Deutzmans for the awesome comment !!

[@gatorsworld]

Never herd of that but that a good one to have in the computer......to bad I’m so old and probably won’t have time to use it much till I go to that big place in the sky......I see you have a eye bolt at the end of your vice grips.....what a good idea.....CHEERS

[@tractorman4461]

Aw heck Gator you ain't old...me and you are the same age !! Heck I think I'm even older than you. LOL. Yes, I used that to tie a rope for pulling sheet metal parts, rtu curb parts and other stuff to the roof tops. I have several with different nuts welded onto the adjuster. Whatever was convenient. I just changed out a 40 or 50 hp motor one day and I thought hey...that lifting eye looks to be the same thread....and boom !! There it is. Then I started saving all the discarded eyes from old motors or equipment we were demoed out. Now I shoot anchors into the floor and use them for 'pull-spots' to drag dead machinery into the shop with an electric winch.

[@gatorsworld]

@@tractorman4461 I made a special with these eyes when I started making videos about 4 years ago and I even sent one to Steve Rob....I guess like they say...."necessity is the mother of invention....CHEERS"

[@tractorman4461]

@@gatorsworld I remember that one. Remember Ben's Sawmill channel? He's the guy that sent me over to visit you. Then I picked up on Steve Rob through you talking about him.

[@gatorsworld]

And we all lived happily ever after but I wonder about Ben.... guess this action in here was just to mush for a young guy.....CHEERS

[@tractorman4461]

@@gatorsworld I really enjoyed his ‘take’ on KZbin when he’d have those fireside chats. I’m sure he’s doing fine no matter what he’s doing.

[@DavidRobinson-mx6cl]

Thanks for the awesome tip ! I'm sure it will come in handy sometimes ! 👍

[@tractorman4461]

Yes it will. Especially if you work on old stuff that's rusted so badly its almost welded together with the rust !! Thanks David for watching and commenting.

[@bobhover3863]

Never seen it done like that before. Another lesson learned. Awesome Tractorman44.

[@tractorman4461]

Well Bob, its just one of the ways to deal with rust. I use heat a lot and smother it in oil as it cools, or spray other brands of penetrant on it. The 50-50 acetone and ATF is a good rust buster, but make it in small quantities or the acetone will mostly evaporate out leaving a thinned ATF. What happens is the acetone quickly penetrates the rust carrying along the tranny fluid. Then the acetone evaporates but leaves the atf behind to fill the rusty threads as lubricant. Then gently but firmly begin working back and forth smacking with a hammer if possible. That jarring starts knocking the rust loose. Thanks for stopping by and taking a quick looksee.

[@johnanthony2545]

And there ya go. Never seen the candle method. Cool.

[@tractorman4461]

It'll very seldom fail you John. But patience is still the key. The candle wax melts and follows the threads right through embedded rust and provides lubrication immediately. Severe ones take a few times applying it. I get it red hot and just touch the candle to it and if it explodes into flame, let it cool until it just melts and doesn't burn. Then let it melt big time.

[@johnanthony2545]

@@tractorman4461 it makes perfect since. That has got to be really old school. I have good success with liquid wrench or knock’er loose and some heat if necessary. I was definitely intrigued ! I like different ways to come at a problem. All was cool to wrk with some one that does things differently with the same results. Great vid.

[@tractorman4461]

@@johnanthony2545 Another concoction you may know of is a 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid. The acetone thins the ATF and pulls it right down into and around the threads. The acetone evaporates pretty quickly but the ATF stays right there. That may take quite a few applications on a larger rusted components like a tractor hub that's rusted to the axle. That's usually where a combination of heat, candlewax mixed with a few cycles of this stuff are needed.

[@johnanthony2545]

@@tractorman4461 that’s new to me as well. Again this makes since. A lot of wheels have turned on this issue that so many have come up against since the creation of rust lol oxidation and such.

[@davescorneroftheworld1147]

OK... I had to go and make sure you did not get my "Victor 100" torch!!! I love my Victor torch and I am sure you love yours. On my Vice grips, I have a 7/8" washer welded on where you have that ring. My, my, my two simple minds with the same simple thought. NO!!! Neither one of us is simple!!! I can hardly wait to see you probably June 3ed if that is still OK.

[@tractorman4461]

Oh heck yeah, June 3rd is still looking good for me !! I think as long as we can find a big enough spot to park your camper things will be stellar. I use the eyebolt to tie onto a rope for pulling sheet metal and other stuff to the roof tops. I have others with just a 3/4 or 7/8 nut welded to the adjuster for the same reason. Almost not a day goes by without the torch coming out for a job. Thanks for the visit today my Sportster loving friend !!

[@ButlerOutdoorsCanada]

Interesting, I've never seen this technique before, usually I go for the WD-40 or a welded nut. but that Wax seems to work really well!! Thanks for sharing sir!

[@tractorman4461]

Patience is the most important factor in the equation when it comes to rusty stuff...IF you want to save it and not do additional damage to it. I'm glad to see that so many viewers are liking this technique. Thanks Andrew for watching and commenting my young Canadian friend.

[@Mr_Dopey]

While the oil doesn't hurt, I think it's the focused cooling doing the trick. Heating everything, then cooling only the bolt shrinks it away from the body. If the wax and oil is a key part, would something like plumbing flux work better?

[@tractorman4461]

I agree totally about how you describe the heating and cooling down breaking the bond between the rusted materials. The cool thing about the candle wax is how it'll take more heat before bursting into flames. Oh , it'll still burn when the material is super heated, but as it cools, it'll melt into and pass the threads many degrees higher than oils and other lubricants as its cooling. The wax acts as a lubricant and I assume flux would too but I have never tried it, but it may very well work similar to the wax.

[@5hawks]

As it cools it'll draw the wax into the joint just like solder flowing toward the heat. Too hot, it just flashes off. You can use canning wax too. (paraffin) Yes sir, patience with frozen nuts and bolts.

[@itbigboy1984]

Bee's wax candles and heat are hard to beat! Enjoy the videos!

[@tractorman4461]

Thank you Conrad for the supportive comment. I think you must be speaking from experience. Thanks for watching !!

[@itbigboy1984]

@@tractorman4461 Yes sir, I keep a bunch of bee's wax in the freezer so it wont melt in this Missouri heat. Bee's wax and 50/50 acetone and trany fluid!

[@tractorman4461]

@@itbigboy1984 aw man, I use acetone and atf a LOT as well. I have a quart re-fillable spray can from WWGrainer. I mix it in the container then pressurize it with the air nozzle. It's totally sealed so the ATF has a more difficult time evaporating so it stays good much longer. Other than that, I'll only mix a day's worth at a time. That blasted acetone evaporates out of a squirt can too easily in a few days. Hey Conrad, btw...what part of Missouri ??

[@itbigboy1984]

@@tractorman4461 Cameron, Mo about 55 miles north of KC

[@tractorman4461]

@@itbigboy1984 Man...that's plumb across the state !! But oddly enough, my daughter in law and her family went to KC today for a relative's graduation. I guess we are almost neighbors though..... LOL

[@operator8014]

1 stubborn bolt? I'm used to just one bolt coming out willingly...

[@tractorman4461]

Hahahaha....yeah me too !! I was actually surprised to find only ONE stubborn on this one. But there is ALWAYS one, no matter what.

[@akquilter3519]

Addendum: could it be that particular candle you used is made of at least 51 % beeswax? All our candles used in our church are 51% beeswax. They burn very slow and clean. Just wondering.

[@tractorman4461]

Honestly I have no clue. I still have a little 3'' stubb left of it though. It's in laying on the top of a tractor engine that's coming apart.

[@JeremyFinlay]

I'm looking at removing

[@tractorman4461]

Your comment got cut off. But there are many places where this works perfectly and others that other methods work better. Thanks for watching today Jeremy !!