FastCap Edge Banding

[@NickFerry]

fastcap is one of the more underrated suppliers of woodworkers - they really do have some innovative tools & products - I would be interested in which method you prefer in 3-6 months - great as always Ron!

[@marknylund1808]

I think you might be using the edge break incorrectly. I own one and you should use it so that you hit both sides at the same time with the major axis parallel with the edge your covering. That is how I use it and it works great. I enjoy all your videos and you have helped me a lot, thanks Ron.

[@TheSmartWoodshop]

+Mark Nylund Mark, I will give that method a try. Thanks, Ron

[@PhilReynolds]

Mark is correct. that is the purpose of its v shape

[@TheSmartWoodshop]

I haven't tried it yet, but it makes total sense now.

[@michaelh5532]

Hey Ron, when you use the FastBreak, you set it perpendicular to the edge...so both edges are hit at the same time. Two swipes and done. Once you do it a few times and get a system, you'll save loads of time over the iron on banding.

[@jeffjones5257]

I love the few FastCap tools I have. Been very happy with their products. Those tools are on my list down the road for a kitchen project.

[@joestillwell6789]

I've tried both iron on and fast cap self stick. I think the fast cap gets the job done quicker and looks just as good. My only negative comment on the fast cap banding is the little trimmings curl up into sticky little balls and end up all over me and things in the area where I'm working. It's not a big deal but I wouldn't want to accidentally track it into a customers house if your using it on site.

[@brettbenson563]

I believe this product works well around inside radius cuts which is a major pain with the heated edge banding.

[@jcardwell3rd]

How about mounting the black supports to squares of plywood that have pegs to index on your work bench. That way you could put them any distance apart depending on your work piece.

[@pdxDavid]

I contacted FastCap and told them about my channel (5 subs)... They told me to get lost. ;) Thanks for the video.

[@beardedwoodsmith9537]

I am a huge fan of your videos, keep up the great content. Your tips are very helpful.I have those fast cap products and love the result.

[@_cb336]

I had the same splintering issues with the other, non-FastCap cutter. After messing up a few pieces, I pulled the cutter apart, and trim one side at a time. The problem is grain direction. When you trim two sides at once, one is always cutting against the grain of the veneer, and that's what causes the tear-out. Oak, maple, and birch are not too bad, but walnut breaks very easily. I'd be interested to hear if the FastCap version has done anything to address the problem, or if it just seems better now because the blades are new.

[@BIgGuidojoe]

definitely interesting, but i think im gonna stick with my iron, knife, and Formica file! alot of times i use left over strips a veneer for my edge banding, and in those cases i need contact cement, takes time, but cost efficient.

[@Retroweld]

Cool Ron. Thanks for sharing.

[@njrworkshop]

Nice video, Ron!

[@noeffnwaypal]

I know this product is somewhat new to you, but I wonder how the peel and stick will hold up over time? I would think a heat applied banding would adhere a lot better. Not sure, just wondering. Thanks for the great video demo Ron!

[@TheSmartWoodshop]

+Robb Tatum Robb, I haven't done much edge banding since switching to FastCap, so I can't give first hand testimony. Others on YT have been using it and swear by it.

[@Deltro61]

Interesting, you did not mention the cost difference between the iron on and self-adhesive variety. In checking out prices, there is a considerable difference, and I don't think the time difference makes up for it. This is one camper is going to be sticking to the iron on, but I may take a look at one of their cutters.

[@damasydia]

Does the metal roller leave any indentations on the veneer

[@TheSmartWoodshop]

+damasydia No, the roller works great for this application.

[@wferg14]

Hey Ron! Thanks for the vid. Who do you buy your cabinets from?

[@andrewglasgow4812]

Which product/method is the most durable do you think?

[@TheSmartWoodshop]

+Andy Glasgow Andy, I can say that the pre-glued iron on is very durable as I have used it for 20 years with no problems. For my personal testimony, only time will tell. Possible there are some other woodworkers on KZbin that have more experience with it. I am going to use the taped edge banding on my future projects with confidence based on what I have heard about it.

[@gabelarkin1796]

If you were to stain/paint unfinished banding where it abutted a section of cabinet that had a different finish e.g. frameless cabinets with melamine interiors do you stain the edge banding before applying or after? If after, how do you keep the stain off of the pre-finished interior? Thx.

[@TheSmartWoodshop]

+Gabe Larkin Gabe, I think you could pre-finish the edge banding. I only build cabinets with plywood and I do all of my finish after assembly so I don't have any experience with melamine.

[@gabelarkin1796]

Thx for the reply.

[@gregorypennenga715]

Love all your videos. The question I have about this FastCap system is the glue used to adhere the edge banding. Do you think it will have the same longevity as traditional preglued?

[@TheSmartWoodshop]

+Gregory Penning I will have FastCap respond to this as I don't have any projects completed with FastCap edge banding to compare.

[@leanhealth8862]

Hi Greg, this is Paul from FastCap. Fastedge is made from the same material PVC and real wood as traditional edge banding. The only thing that's different is the adhesive. Traditional hotmelt system is more durable but not by a lot. We are using a high-performance waterproof acrylic material that is extremely strong and in most applications when it is put on correctly will hold up exactly the same. If you were applying this to a high wear area like a door our product will work fine but the hotmelt would be a A little bit more durable. The biggest issue is when it's applied correctly it holds up perfect.

[@TheSmartWoodshop]

+Lean Health Paul, thanks for answering this question. If you have someone who has been using Fastedge in production for a while, could you point them over here to give some input on durability?

[@gregorypennenga715]

+Lean Health Thanks for the info! I'm placing my order for the FastCap edge banding system tomorrow morning.

[@gregorypennenga715]

+Ron Paulk Keep up the great videos. I am a huge fan.

[@bidbudy6061]

How do you finish your cabinets on site if you don't have a spray booth? Thanks

[@TheSmartWoodshop]

+Bid Budy When I build cabinets, rare anymore, I finish them using an HVLP in a temp spray booth made with visqueen.

[@1larfinboy]

Hi Ron, it would be interesting to see how you make a good quality kitchen unit/s with a good finish. Any advice you could give would be great as i'm planning on building my own kitchen in the UK. Regards Chris

[@TheSmartWoodshop]

Chris, it has been a while since I had an opportunity to make cabinets. These days, I mostly install cabinets that I buy from larger manufactures. With the advantages that large scale companies have, it is hard to even buy the raw materials for what I can get finished cabinets. I still make some of the really custom units sometimes if it makes sense.

[@1larfinboy]

So the garage you fitted out the other year on your channel, are they the average run of the mill units that you would make and then put a finish on and install in a kitchen or would your kitchen units be better quality / made differently? Even with what a kitchen company can offer over here in England, £4000 for a chipboard kitchen is a lot of money when your on a budget!

[@TheSmartWoodshop]

Christopher Collins Chris, when I build kitchen cabinets, I use ¾" Birch Ply for the boxes and Apply Ply for the drawers, and most time I still buy the door and drawer faces. The assembly method for kitchen cabinets is also different than the garage units shown in the other videos. If I am building cabinets for myself, it may be worth it if I don't count my time. When I buy cabinets here, I choose the ply option, which is a bit more than MDF, but I don't like MDF for anything. For clients, I can always buy good quality cabinets cheaper than I can build them. The large scale companies buy their materials by the train load, and have millions of dollars in CNC equipment for labor and material savings a small shop cannot offer. If you are building them for yourself, it is a labor of love and the satisfaction that you did it yourself. It doesn't save much money if you count your time and the tool investment. All of that being said, I still like building the cabinets for my own home, if I have the space and time to do so. My last two personal homes, I purchased the cabinets as I was too busy and did not have the space to build them.

[@brianway]

Hey Ron, great job on the video. I just posted one as well. As soon as it was done playing, yours started up automatically! I hope all is well! Take a look at mine, I use a vacuum clamping technique. Check it out on my channel, it is named "FastCap FastEdge LEAN edgebanding station with vacuum clamp"