Faster Pants Fitting: Use Balance Lines to Fine Tune the Fit

[@jeannetteantry1086]

This is a great example of how fit pants alone. I struggle with every pair I make trying to get those wrinkles out. I am pretty close, but I just always have some. I have learned what will be ok and what to try to get out. What happens when I try to get all the wrinkles out, the fit starts to go wonky and causes issues in other places. Pants are hard. But I have some great bottoms that were worth the work and really give my wardrobe a lift without having to always wear jeans. Thanks so much for all your hard work here and in all your videos you create. It matters. P.S. I covered all my metal washers that I covered with tape for fabric weights. They work really well.

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks! ... I like to play with all the things that help me figure out what the wrinkles are trying to tell me. The shape of the crotch compared to your body shape is the biggest contributor to wrinkles... Then comes the vertical position of the crotch and how the fabric is positioned vertically along the waistline... For example if you pull the waistline up too high at the side seams, you get smile wrinkles in the back. These things go hand-in-hand... If you pull the front up to get the crotch into position and the shape of the crotch does not agree with you, it messes up the drape of the back leg. (you also have to factor in what the waist darts are doing to help or hurt the drape of the leg as well as the horizontal ease) I think this is what makes it challenging. :) Thanks for fitting along with me

[@Chris-gh3hg]

Thanks for explaining the HBL placement. I need the why of things and you always do that. I know this will be a huge help for me.

[@JSternDesigns]

So happy to hear, thanks for fitting along with me

[@arlenemurphy804]

Thank you. Great video.

[@JSternDesigns]

Thank you! and thanks for fitting along with me

[@janettechapple6542]

That flat pattern adjustment was so, well, simple!!! How to adjust the pattern has been challenging me well, forever. Thankyou!

[@JSternDesigns]

Glad it was helpful! Keep me posted if you have specific questions! Thanks for fitting along with me.

[@lyndaschuch8102]

Thank you. This makes sense. You explain so well. 😊❤

[@JSternDesigns]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me

[@yukiostrachan2048]

Thank you for explaining why we don't transfer the horizontal balance line that's perpendicular to the grainline for the full hip. I always learn from you.

[@JSternDesigns]

So sorry I didn't see your comment until now. Happy to help! Thank you for following along with me

[@kimt2au]

Oh my gosh, that bit about the high hip balance line makes soooo much sense. Thank you for this video. Funny how I have watched this video before but it is only now that I am having a problem with my balance line that I picked up that point. Thank you so much:)

[@JSternDesigns]

So happy this helps you! Thank you for fitting along with me

[@elisabettacamiciottoli6228]

Dear Jane, thank you so much for this video! From now I will always use balance line to fit pants. I'm very glad to you. 😃

[@JSternDesigns]

:) So happy to hear... thanks for fitting along with me!

[@sastaps]

Sharing with my costume friends. Love it. Watching from Covent Garden. London

[@JSternDesigns]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@brendaeves3236]

This was a great video for myself as a beginner whose anxious to be able to make fitted trousers.

[@JSternDesigns]

Glad it was helpful! ...So sorry for the delayed response!

[@Elaineparis]

practical, soothing and helpful.

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks! and thank you for fitting along with me

[@christinemartin9449]

Hi from England. I have only just found your channel and so pleased that I have. Such a great explanation. Thank you for doing these videos.

[@JSternDesigns]

Christine Martin I’m so happy you found my channel too Thanks for following along!

[@dianemiddleton2985]

Just started watching your videos. Great, lots of help. thanks so much

[@JSternDesigns]

So happy you found me! Thanks for fitting along with me

[@davidmarks509]

Glad I stumbled onto your video. I have always had problems with pants, no matter where I got them from. Then one day I was helping out in a thrift store. Sorting out all the donations for the day, and I came across a pair of purple track suit like pants. So I tried them on. Its hard to find words describing how amazing these pants where, but for me I had just found the perfect pants for me. Then a lady said to me. "You know you're wearing ladies pants". They where so good, and I wore them a lot. At that time i was not sewing. I think it was a decade later that I took up sewing, and now I am trying to make those magic track suit like pants. What I have found is its, hard to find your shape. I did get a commercial ladies X4 easy sew shorts pattern. They where to big. I had to take in 23 cm from the side seam, and i raised the waist 15 cm, and lengthened the legs a bit to just below knee level with enough room for a hem. I love how they turned out, but I am still looking to get that dream fit. Thank you for sharing your skills with us.

[@JSternDesigns]

So sorry I didn't see your comment until now. Happy to help! Thank you for following along with me

[@rachelrolseth]

I took your craftsy jeans class and am completely obsessed. I was like one more muslin away from giving up on pants forever. Thank you!!!!!

[@JSternDesigns]

I'm sorry that I'm just answering your comment now. Happy to help, Thanks Jen

[@oscar6443]

Thank you for this valuable information 🐶

[@JSternDesigns]

Thank you for fitting along with me! (sorry for the delayed response!)

[@dianakidd5688]

Thank you for this demonstration! It’s such a common problem in pant fitting.

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks so much & thanks for watching!

[@theresacopeland2451]

this was SO helpful and SO cool!! really helped me understand how to use a HBL! my mind was also blown by how you changed the pattern to eliminate the extra fabric! fantastic!!

[@JSternDesigns]

Theresa Copeland ....so happy to help! Thanks for watching

[@notesfromleisa-land]

Fabulous content.

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks so much!

[@AbbyOssmann]

Thank you for the video, I especially liked the tip about using safety pins!

[@JSternDesigns]

:) Thanks for watching!

[@debbiestuttgen1825]

Thank you so much for this great presentation. Pants are the hardest to fit, but you are helping.

[@JSternDesigns]

Thank you for fitting along with me! (sorry for the delayed response!)

[@chrisboyd3626]

Thanks, really helpful info!

[@JSternDesigns]

Glad it was helpful!

[@carollavallee2040]

This was very helpful learning about balance lines, how to use them and make adjustments. Love the idea of using safety pins. I will check it myself.

[@JSternDesigns]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me!

[@knitgal53]

It’s nice to see the use of these older tools! I’ve used the tracing wheel and paper off and on since the 60’s!

[@JSternDesigns]

So sorry I didn't see your comment until now! Me too, and thanks for watching~

[@Lemmikki2011]

Thank you. What a brilliant and extremely useful tutorial!

[@JSternDesigns]

Glad you enjoyed it! So sorry for the delayed response

[@elizabethmclaughlin2216]

Terrific instructions! I really appreciate you taking the time to teach your skills. I subscribed to your channel. 🤗 Liz McLaughlin, Minnesota

[@JSternDesigns]

Welcome to my Channel! I'm happy you found me... and thank you for fitting along with me.

[@Tamarind525]

Interesting how just that 3/8” in the right place makes such a difference in fit. Looks a lot better

[@JSternDesigns]

:) One of the things I've learned is Less is sometimes More & enough

[@CameronDawgs]

I love your videos. My question is, how to add horizontal balance lines to the back of a pants pattern that has a curved waist?

[@JSternDesigns]

That's a great question. Check out this week's upcoming Fit Tip Tuesday... I'll share how to make a full hip balance line on patterns where the waistline is not straight! Thanks for fitting along with me

[@Luxxen101]

This was so helpful! Thank you!

[@JSternDesigns]

So sorry I didn't see your comment until now. Happy to Help, and thank you for following along with me

[@sigridkutz4468]

Thank you for the instructions. I have the same problem with too much length under the crotch level. I pinned it as you did, but then took the seams on the pants apart, placed it on the paper pattern. That way I noticed were it needed changing.

[@JSternDesigns]

:) That's a great idea to see what an adjustment actually does to the overall shape of the pattern piece!

[@tinamac916]

That was quite informative. Thanks for posting!

[@JSternDesigns]

Sorry I didn't see your comment until now. Happy to help, and thanks for watching~

[@terrydowney1350]

Your tutorials are so helpful, thank you so much! Pants have been my nemesis, so difficult to alter patterns to fit my shape, but you've made it so simple that I don't even need to waste time and money on muslins, just using wide seamlines so there's room to alter if needed is all I ever have to do anymore😊

[@JSternDesigns]

I'm so happy to hear that! Thank you for fitting along with me!

[@auntmayme8119]

Brilliant! I always have this same problem and couldn’t figure out how to fix it. I think it’s because of my back curvature, how my back will curve more on one side than the other. I like the safety pin idea.. Not only would I get stuck with straight pins, but they would also fall out. And Saral paper and a tracing wheel; I’m a sewist from the 60’s and these two tools were always in my sewing kit. My saral paper dried out, and I tossed it, but I will definitely need to get some more.

[@JSternDesigns]

So sorry I didn't see your comment until now. Happy to Help, and thank you for following along with me

[@danielatrifu]

Hi, thanks for the explanation! Could you please to the other method of removing that fabric in the middle of the back leg? (slashing the pattern method). I can't see the date of posting of your videos, youtube only says this many months/ years ago. Thank you!

[@JSternDesigns]

Hi... Here's a link to how to pleat out the excess ease in your pants muslin. Then you would transfer this adjustment to your paper pattern by slashing and overlapping the paper in the same places as you pinched fabric out of your muslin. Let me know if you have questions. Thanks for watching

[@clothingalterations]

Amazing video 👍🌺🌿☘🌹🌵🌻🍀

[@JSternDesigns]

Thank you very much! and thank you for fitting along with me

[@elinohman6017]

I found your website where you explained that you should not wedge when adjusting rise for example. My question is, how do I make a flat seat adjustment without making a wedge in the back piece?

[@JSternDesigns]

If you have a flat seat, you need less room inside your pants. You can straighten the angle of the straight part of the CB edge and shorten the back crotch extension to reduce the room inside. If your pattern has two back waist darts on each leg... you can get rid of one and smooth the excess off the side seam... Or reduce the dart intake if you only have one dart. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me

[@barbaraferron7994]

How about a link to the video you mentioned where you use a slash method to take out the tuck?

[@JSternDesigns]

Sorry about that... Here it is kzbin.info/www/bejne/m5bOkoWbm7l8e8k

[@elisabettacamiciottoli6228]

Dear Jennifer, can you please explain how you manage to change the side seam, as shown by the red line in the photo with the pins? In my muslin I have a similar leaning back of the side seam fron waist to hip. If you could make a video with the instructions about adjusting the side seam direction I'll be very glad to you. Thank you 😘

[@JSternDesigns]

Hi Elisabetta, Can you send me photos (front/back/side) So I can see what's going on? Then I can suggest steps to fix! Thanks

[@candydavis4277]

You’re amazing.

[@JSternDesigns]

Thank you for fitting along with me! (sorry for the delayed response!)

[@amygodinez7652]

Thank you!

[@JSternDesigns]

You're welcome!

[@marneyb2256]

Thank you for explaining how to get a straight balance line on pants. That struggle is over for me, thanks! My question is once you have adjusted the scoop are you adding fabric to the side sides to accommodate the amount you have taken out of the crotch at CB? Or am I overthinking this. Thank you for your videos. You go into fitting details that others do not and I have learned so much.

[@JSternDesigns]

My Pleasure! Yes, you can add to the side seam to put back the ease you removed from scooping the crotch curve. I like to work with extra wide side seam allowances so I can let the side seams out if I need to! Thanks for fitting along with me!

[@kimsadowski4058]

Is the method to trace that line the very same, when you use the contoured waitband? Many thanks :)

[@JSternDesigns]

This tutorial really has nothing to do with the kind of waistband you are using. It's more about transferring the excess vertical fabric that was pinned out ...off the pattern by trimming the waistline edge of the pattern piece. This can work really well for some excess vertical length... But I also use this adjustment to get rid of excess fabric under the butt. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eX_Le2qYmqarqbc Thanks for fitting along with me

[@octaviaandcat4202]

Very helpful! I do have a question - I thought the point of the balance line at the back hip was to ensure a straight line for pattern fabrics such as plaid? Which I guess needs to be perpendicular to the crease/grainline? I think. But your method also makes a lot of sense, and I wonder if it has advantages when using a plain fabric? Or...urgh, I dunno. Pants! Some half questions there, any feedback much appreciated!

[@JSternDesigns]

So sorry for the delayed response. You can use the horizontal hip line to help match plaids. But for fitting it tells you if you have excess length above or below the hip line or if you need more length above or below the hip line along the CB Crotch Seam. For example, If it's loose and dipped down, you need to shorten the back crotch above the line, if it tight and dips down, you need to add length below the hip line.

[@octaviaandcat4202]

@@JSternDesigns Thank you! I need to give it more of a go.

[@dagmarluerweg3937]

Hello your tips are great. I want to sew myself trousers out of woven fabric. Unfortunately I have a big bottom and the patterns are not made for it. The hips are not as pronounced but the thighs are back and the belly is not so big. I'm small, 1.52, 70 kg. It always doesn't fit in the step curve, I've been trying on for ages but the pants don't fit right, I'm desperate. What is the reason? make step curve rounder and longer? does the arch need to be rounder, longer from the back of the trousers, between the legs so that it can accommodate the bottom?

[@JSternDesigns]

Hi Dagmar, Thank you! It sounds like you need a deeper crotch curve to fit your shape... Instead of lengthening the crotch points (which adds to the upper thigh as well) try scooping deeper and adding to the side seam. If you would like one-on-one zoom fitting help, here's a link to my Zoom Pants Fitting jsterndesigns.com/product/custom-pants-fitting/

[@tiffanyboney]

How do you fix these issues with pants that are already made? Do these same rules apply to alterations?

[@JSternDesigns]

You can fix many issues by taking in or letting out the side and inseams... You can also take the waistband off and trim excess vertical length off the waistline, then put the waistband back on. Do you have a specific fit adjustment you're trying to make?

[@tiffanyboney]

@@JSternDesigns I’m working on fitting a pair of old trousers I have. I have 1 inch of excess fabric in the front and 2.5 inches in the back (1 inch across the butt and dart measuring 1.5 inches from the inseam leading to zero at the side seam). I used your method of pinning to figure out how much to remove. I’m just nervous to cut that much off from the pants in the back and front. I’m trying to get rid of the huge drag lines under my butt.

[@candydavis4277]

Hi! I have a few swing dresses that I’d like to take most of the swing out,making them more A-line. Can I just take in the side seams and not have everything go wonky?

[@JSternDesigns]

Hi Candy, The swing in your dress is created by slashing and spreading the pattern in several places along the hem. While the hem is spreading, a pivot is created at the waistline. The pivot points along the waistline cause the waistline to become shaped like a C. I've never tried to just take fullness off at the side seams...I'm wondering what the curved shape of the waistline will do to the drape of the skirt.... I think I'm going to add this to my quick list of video tutorials because I'd like to try it before I tell you it will be ok!

[@candydavis4277]

J Stern Designs Hi Jen. Thanks for getting back to me. I have several swing dresses so I will experiment on my least favorite one. Lol. Still would like your opinion though. I’ve been watching your videos on Baby lock Evolution. I got one couple years ago but never used it much. So overwhelming compared to my old serger. Watching you is helping me. Thank you!

[@leahtapia2949]

Hi! I have to remove about 2in to get the type of fit I want (tighter under the bottom). Would you recommend this method for getting rid of the excess fabric, or something else since it is such a significant amount? Thanks

[@JSternDesigns]

So Sorry I didn't see your comment until now! This adjustment removes vertical length, if you want tighter pants, I would try taking in the side and inseams ... hope that helps, Thanks so much

[@shadensani9887]

Hi, I sewed pants that have a crease on the back of the knee. How can I fix it

[@JSternDesigns]

Can you email me photos of your side and back views so I can see what's going on? [e-mail] Thanks!

[@dkeididdjeie5766]

Hi good evening I am always interested learning how to do sewing classes but not able to come out and do the classes anyway so can you please help me do this over online

[@JSternDesigns]

Hello Dkeidid ...I’m teaching a jeans fitting class for Fabric Mart Fabrics in April... here’s the link for more info: www.fabricmartfabrics.com/april-classes/stretch-jeans-made-easy-class-with-jennifer-stern-two-week-class. I also teach private zoom pants fitting jsterndesigns.com/product/custom-pants-fitting/. Please let me know if you need more help! Thanks, Jen

[@glendak4093]

Do you do the same to the front? Or leave it alone?

[@JSternDesigns]

This adjustment is just for removing vertical length if the horizontal balance lines are dipping ... If the balance lines are straight across in the front, you don't need to adjust the front. Let me know if this helps!

[@gaylaantoine5440]

Hi my inner seams are twisting to the front. How do i fix it? Thanks.

[@JSternDesigns]

Without seeing the muslin on you, my first best guess is that you're working with a pattern that has a longer front inseam from knee to crotch. If you sew the inseams and push the extra length to the hem, the seam will twist. Try pinning the inseams so the hems are even to the knee. Then ease in the extra length in the front inseam to the back inseam from the knee to the crotch. Another cause could be that the front waist is not sitting properly. Pulling it up can straighten the inseam. Hope this helps

[@patriciaferrito9245]

So you are doing this on a muslin? How can you get the lines off?

[@mioangel1227]

It's a muslin!

[@AJmakesIt]

Hi! You can use fabric pens if you don’t want it to stay. But usually muslin is used to practice. So it’s ok if it marked up. For most projects you use muslin it’s cheap and then when you get the pattern how you want them you do it in the good fabric

[@JSternDesigns]

So sorry I didn't see your comment until now. I use inexpensive pants fabric to make test pants aka "Pants Muslin"... I draw my lines with a Sharpie Marker so I can really see them. The sole purpose of a fit muslin is to work out the wrinkles... Then I transfer the adjustments to the paper pattern and cut my actual pants out of my fashion fabric. Hope this helps! Thank you for following along with me

[@kimberleyjane2338]

Hi, I can understand and visualize everything, Except why you didn't, or shouldn't just lift the balance line and slash extra. Hahaha. I get so upset when my drafting goes crazy. Pants are not a problem for me cause I don't have a butt, but I still need to learn 😅

[@JSternDesigns]

That's a great question... The excess length pinned out on the leg is the not the problem, it's the symptom of the problem. If you pinched out the excess length there on your pattern and sewed a new muslin, the excess would come back. The problem is that there is too much fabric above the crotch level and it's pushing down. Removing it above, gets rid of it permanently. Hope this helps! Thank you for fitting along with me

[@lyndaleekorn1408]

You said you were going to tell us where to get the tracing paper or the name.

[@JSternDesigns]

Hi Lyndalee, Here is a link to Wawak's dotted paper. www.wawak.com/Cutting-Measuring/Patterns-Supplies/dotted-marking-pattern-paper-500?sku=MSC42&gclid=CjwKCAjwtpGGBhBJEiwAyRZX2iQ7aUQhKd0qiEqS_1r-S5afcfL3QWu_OIMV0YupTU5OuRZuCfYERBoCay8QAvD_BwE

[@lyndaleekorn1408]

@@JSternDesigns Thanks so much.

[@DebbieHQ]

It is Sarah Paper. Comes in rolls and sheets, usually. And in all colors to contrast with your fabric (so you can see the lines). Used for muslins, normally, not good fabric.

[@buzoff4642]

I don't understand why the back waist was dropped to take the excess fabric out, but the bottom of the crotch curve was not dropped by the same amount. Changing the scoop allows for more body volume, but body volume was not the cause. Or, was it?

[@JSternDesigns]

That's a great question! The wrinkles are caused by excess vertical length (pinned out under butt). One way to get rid of it is to trim it off the waistline. Technically you are "lowering" the waistline... but the actual affect is that it picks up the fabric the amount that was trimmed. Scooping the base of the crotch (or dropping it) does create more room to sit & it transfers fabric from below crotch level to above it. (I can sit down without the back sliding down... so I didn't need more room to sit in this case.) ... Hope this helps!

[@buzoff4642]

​@@JSternDesigns Line method and diagnosis via deep wrinkle look to contradict. Top most line is made worse, but taking from waist. Every pair of pants I've ever had has a waistband that slopes down to the front, with the exception of actual high waist trousers. And looking at where the wrinkle is, at approx @7:35, I'd have thought a pattern dart, below crotch curve on the thigh, from inseam approaching zero at outer leg seam, would be the place to take the fabric wrinkle slack from (pun intended). Looking at wavy side seam, a few other smaller adjustments are needed. Could be because of model's posture, looks to be leaning forward carrying full weight on the front of the foot. Ouch!

[@buzoff4642]

@@JSternDesigns ps - The visual of standing in a muslin is outstanding in being informative. I stopped sewing new clothes years ago, because my process is all wrong. So far, my worst mistake seems to have been trusting the pattern sizing. I never knew they had nothing to do with ready to wear sizing. Thanks for your patients with us newbies.

[@nz-xt3sz]

سلام کاش زیر نویس هم داشتید ما زبان شمارو متوجه نمیشویم

[@JSternDesigns]

خیلی متاسفم، دارم سعی می کنم بفهمم چطور زیرنویس های بیشتری به کانالم اضافه کنم (من یک کسب و کار تک زن هستم، بنابراین همه چیز زمان می برد)

[@JK-el6wy]

Just a little remark - do not use your tracing wheel with your ruler. I have a similar tracing wheel inheritted from my grandma, its teeth are sharp and they will bite into your ruler. I have another cheap ruler to that purpose, have had and used it for years and it is very very injured...

[@JSternDesigns]

:) Yes!!! that is so true! I've damaged my rulers with my tracing wheel and my rotary cutter!!

[@rosasabatella1029]

A me interessa queste spiegazione io no capisco niente sono italiana

[@JSternDesigns]

Mi dispiace molto per questo. Cercherò di aggiungere altri sottotitoli