How to install a Wilwood Hydraulic Clutch Master Cylinder, for your old muscle car.

[@mikemorrow5315]

So glad you did this video. I have a 69 GTO, preparing to tackle the same task. Man, you have been a great inspiration to me. Great videos and information on attacking real life issues with auto projects.

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Mike! That means a lot... keep us posted on how the project continues! Have fun!

[@rickycarroll1990]

I am working on mine and just wanted to refresh my brain, thanx for the tip on pedal clearance, nice crisp video

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Ricky, I too refer to my own videos... lol See ya!

[@MarkEkberg-o2o]

Enjoyed this install. Answered needed questions about my c10 install.

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Mark! Glad it helped, and thanks for leaving a comment.

[@paulcaruthers9647]

This video was really helpful, and answered some questions I had about the hydraulic clutch master cylinder install. Glad you showed all that you did.

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Paul! Glad I could help... good luck!

[@332ARA]

Makes me want a manual in my 68 wagon build

[@FastMonty]

Sounds fun to me!

[@332ARA]

@@FastMonty was your car originally a manual? also do you have a part number for the kit? bad link

[@FastMonty]

@@332ARA Yeah, originally a manual. Shoot me an email, and I'll get you in touch with SST directly. [e-mail]

[@gregschultz2029]

Good Video , You’re not alone on getting wrong parts ,Looking forward to you getting that Tin Indian running !!!

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Greg! Yeah, nothing ever goes as planned when modifying. Which makes this hobby so much fun! See you soon.

[@ZEOPHYTE72]

Definitely can tell you’r an engineer from the Staedtler engineering comp pad………..a dead giveaway for sure!!!!! I’ve used up many of them in my time!!😂. Enjoy your channel & I’m channeling a few of your ideas into my ‘72 Trans Am rebuild as well. Many Thanx!

[@FastMonty]

Ha! That's awesome. Thanks for the comment... can't wait to see your beast, when it's done. Have fun!

[@kirchofe8949]

Very amazing idea..

[@FastMonty]

Ha! Thanks!

[@MrLittlegto]

Thank you!! Funny, we almost have the exact same build. Was getting ready to figure out connecting the pedal. Appreciate you making these videos!

[@FastMonty]

Same name, same build... brothers from another mother? Ha, ha... awesome to hear this video helped you out. Can't wait to see your ride!

[@designsinorbit]

I am on this hydraulic clutch step with my automatic. I'm getting worn down trying to work under the dash. It'll be worth it, but never again with an engine in!

[@FastMonty]

I hate getting under the dash too! Even with the seat removed... totally sucks. Keep at it!

[@designsinorbit]

@@FastMonty I'm trying to not get completely overwhelmed.

[@FastMonty]

@@designsinorbit Welcome to the club!

[@davidessien5465]

Nice video! My client's own had a similar issue so I bleed the clutch and still to no avail. I've even replaced only the kit inside the upper clutch but the problem of a sponge clutch and no gear still persist. I've checked scrutingly for signs of leakage carefully while someone pressed the clutch, i found out that the down clutch nipple doesn't hold clutch hydraulic fluid! It goes out gently, and also the clutch fluid was replaced with a new one. Nevertheless, it's still very darkened in color. Please, how do I fix the issues? Darkened fluid, soft clutch pedal, and a most especially the leak at the down clutch bleeder or nipple.

[@FastMonty]

I don't know exactly, but your system should not be leaking. (Maybe try bench bleeding the master, so it has absolutely no air in it). Let us know what you figure out!

[@edfox6921]

'Of course... it doesn't fit' haha. Of course not. That was funny. Thanks for sharing!🙂

[@FastMonty]

Ha! Yeah, nothing ever does... thanks for the comment!

[@danielmathys289]

Great vid. nice detail on how to..cant wait for the continuation...i am thinking about Tremec

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Daniel! Yeah, I can't wait to drive it again!

[@sjcali6161]

Ironic enough, I’m putting a T56 in my 68 Charger and I got the kit from Silver Sport. Mine was a factory auto-console car so I’ve got a little more work to do but the reason I’m here was to find out how to set the rod adjustment. So thanks. It helped me out.

[@FastMonty]

Great to hear! Love your choice of cars too! Can't wait to see you rollin... Check out my AN Radiator hose install... you might want one of those too. ha, ha. Thanks for the comment!

[@justinsharratt7282]

ooohhhhh buddy so excited for you with that tremec and that's going to be a great learning experience for me because i also plan to put something with more gears in . This was a great video as well because i would like to also run a hydraulic when I get a new trans. thank you so much for including everyone down the path you are going and I can't wait to see you romp through those gears when its done. Makes me wish I still lived in SoCal after i got out of the Marine Corps so we could cruise.

[@FastMonty]

Justin, thanks for your excitement... I can't wait to romp through the gears too... especially that extra one. ha, ha... I have a feeling you'll be back to SoCal for some reason. And, if I never mentioned it, I apologize... thanks for your service in the Marines! See you soon.

[@billmiller5075]

You do good work Mike, that took some thinklng

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Bill... I love me a challenge. Thanks for the comment!

[@fjordmanak]

The typical classic car scenario. What should be a 45 minute assembly turns into a multiple day process and ordering addtional parts to get things to fit. 69 Camaro owner with tons of addtional hours on simple projects lol.

[@FastMonty]

Ha! Totally! You're not a real muscle car guy unless you're a part of the "it never fits right" club. Thanks for the comment!

[@Danno74Z]

Hi Dan you are so correct! I needed to replace a noisy rear wheel bearing and look at the axle for damage. Easy right! remove the cover, drain, C clips pull the axle...RIGHT! Not if the pinion cross shaft bolt snaps off and your left with a nub and the rest of the bolt is stuck in the carrier. Good Grief a complete and utter nightmare. I tried everything even a extraction tool made for this. NO WAY those axle are coming out with those C clips in place! I literately destroyed the carrier by cutting out the area where that pin sits with a Dremel cutoff wheel. A 45 minute job turns into a manure show!

[@FastMonty]

@@Danno74ZOuch! Thanks for sharing!

[@ericneilson1198]

What the? I see a fuse block that uses bladed fuses. Didn't the '69 have glass buss fuses? So, that would be a mod. Interesting.

[@FastMonty]

Ha! Good catch... yeah, it's the Painless Performance full harness. I love it.

[@Danno74Z]

Hi Monty, Did you have to add a pedal stop to your clutch setup? The Tilton HTB requires one so the bearing is not over extended? Thanks

[@FastMonty]

Nope. :)

[@Danno74Z]

@@FastMonty OK Thanks.

[@Danno74Z]

Hi I have a question in regards to the install of the MC bracket in the engine bay. I have the hood and the hood hinges off my 71 Camaro. It still has the original Saginaw installed. Does one have to remove the brake booster to get to the hole where that bracket and MC is going to reside? If I remove the front driver's side front fender it might make access to that area better. What is your opinion on that? I have to remove the fender for bodywork and I might "while your there" take care of the new MC bracket. My goal is to NOT remove the brake booster if at all possible. Thanks!!

[@FastMonty]

Great question Danno... Unfortunately, I don't know, because I have hydro boost, which is a different size/orientation than a vacuum booster. But, I do agree that while you have the fender off, get other upgrades done. Let us know how it goes!

[@baygentst]

I’m doing this on my 69 chevelle right now. The kit says to grind the firewall surface flat or bend the metal flat. Doesn’t look like you did that in this one. Does your rubber seal sit flush on the firewall? The nut serts and raised flange stop mine from sealing well (I thought) so I ground it all flush..

[@FastMonty]

Hey Thomas, yeah, mine was flush, without grinding. Sorry to hear about the PITA... must look sweet now, eh?

[@baygentst]

Thanks for the comments. Shoulder bolt change out was absolutely necessary I did the same thing as you.

[@FastMonty]

Interesting... didn't know that would be the same on a Chevelle... good to know! @@baygentst

[@aaronmichaelelvisgetz5136]

Have you ever seen a block with different mounting bolts on each side? I have 5 pads with 4 holes drilled on one side, then I only have 3 bolt holes in the passenger side. I’m putting it in a 1969 and now I have to figure out what I am going to do.

[@FastMonty]

Aaron, Can you be more specific? By block, are you referring to the mounting block for the master cylinder? If so, is it a Wilwood? You're putting into a 1969 what? A GTO? If you are referring to the mounting block, for a Wilwood master cylinder, for a 1969 GTO, there are two mounting holes for the master cylinder that are threaded, and there are three through holes for bolts that go through the fire wall. If you indeed have a Wilwood master cylinder with a two hole flange, call Silver Sport Transmissions and buy the adapter. Otherwise, please try and be more descriptive with your issue and we'll all try and help... thanks, Mike.

[@gabrielcastillo4606]

Is a hydraulic master cylinder required with a hydraulic throw out bearing? Currently trying to set up my clutch.

[@FastMonty]

Yes, the MC is the piston that pushes the fluid. The Throw Out bearing is the piston that receives said fluid, or force, from the MC. You can't have one, without the other. Thanks for the comment.

[@gabrielcastillo4606]

@@FastMonty thanks. Very helpful.

[@danielwilliams3965]

Hey where did you get that fuse box that has those ATO fuses in it

[@FastMonty]

Ha! Good catch... It's a Painless Performance wire harness, for the whole car, and comes with ATO fuse box, etc... likes this; www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-20101/make/pontiac Thanks for the comment!

[@chuck3376]

Thanks for videos Mike. Question: Have you had any issues with the cylinder leaking? I've installed a hydraulic clutch kit in my 76 T/A which was a Wilwood like the one you have. After only a month the cylinder started to leak from side loading the piston actuator. I noticed on yours there is not support for the actuator shaft. I built a bracket to stop the side loading. I also made sure it was a straight as possible for the actuator clutch rod.

[@FastMonty]

No leaks yet! Might be tough to tell in the video, but the bracket is angled to maintain a straight throw. I guess only time will tell... I'll keep an eye on it... thanks for the comment, and hope to see more comments from you in the future. See ya!

[@hotrod6919]

Ive gotta stop letting your videos talk me into different ideas and mods. lol I been thinking about putting a t-56 in my gto off and on since early 2000s. My car was a factory 4speed but i fragged the muncie first year I had the carin 95'-96' Its had a th400 outta Bonneville since. Ive got a few different t-56s and tr6060 laying around from my 4th gen f body and cts-v days.

[@FastMonty]

Dang Steven! Glad to hear you have options just laying around... ha, ha... and, you're welcome. Thanks for the comment, can't wait to hear about your progress!

[@hotrod6919]

@@FastMonty Yeah but each one is laying around for a reason lol. They may need just a lil re-shim or make a little noise lol

[@FastMonty]

@@hotrod6919 Ha! That would make sense. Can't wait to hear what you pick.

[@hotrod6919]

@@FastMonty Well ive ran both the 2.66 gears and 2.97s with my Ls and like the 2.66 gearbox better more fun for street but the 2.97 is better for 0-60 and ets But If I just keep it auto I wont have to worry about spilling my beer on the kids lap! lol j/k

[@FastMonty]

@@hotrod6919 I just spit out my beer, reading this! Thanks for the laugh. Keep at it!

[@roberttjohnson957]

Nice videos. Can I get the part number on the hydraulic unit as they sent me the universal part which is difficult at best. Trying to work around the problems of using this part untill I saw yours.

[@FastMonty]

Robert, Not sure what part number you're looking for?... the hydraulic master cylinder itself, is universal. The difference is the bracket that mounts the unit to the firewall. Silver Sport Transmissions has the correct bracket. Just give em a call and they can walk you through the solution. If I'm not understanding your question, please re-phrase it. Thanks!

[@roberttjohnson957]

@@FastMonty thnx for reply that is the answer I needed. To use the universal bracket requires a few modifications. That Iam not sure I want to do.also I did call them when I got the parts. Perhaps the new guy answered was no help will give them another try. Thnx again and keep up the good work.

[@FastMonty]

@@roberttjohnson957 Sounds good, if you need further help... just shoot me an email, which is in my profile.

[@19jody72]

Any idea what the biggest throw on an external slave I could get?

[@FastMonty]

Great question... I honestly have no idea. Have you asked Silver Sport? I'm sure they'd know, and/or point you in the right direction. Good luck, and thanks for the comment.

[@19jody72]

@@FastMonty no.. ill look them up. I've got a 302 t5 swapped ranger, using a 99 f550 master with a 280z external slave.. clutch engagement is just to close to the floor.

[@FastMonty]

@@19jody72 love the creativity of mixed parts... I assume you tried moving the connecting rod closer to the clutch pivot? I'm sure there's a solution somewhere. Have fun!

[@19jody72]

@@FastMonty Yes I have it setup so I can adjust it to try and get more throw towards the bellhousing.. however, I think if I adjust it more.. Ill end up making the clutch slip

[@FastMonty]

@@19jody72 I hear you... always a tough balancing act. I have faith you'll figure it out... let us know how it goes!

[@josephgeorgeejr7039]

It's funny when young people don't know where highbeams headlights are on floor in old cars lmao

[@FastMonty]

Ha! I've witnessed that myself. Too funny!

[@jaivette]

How do you measure to limit drivel of the push rod. Too much travel will over extend the release bearing and cause failure. Thanks

[@FastMonty]

Good question, and very valid point. Typically, you'd order the Master and Slave as a kit. Or, to OEM spec. If not, you need to understand the capacity of each. Basically the volume of each cylinder need to match. Bore X Stroke = Volume. Always best to error on the smaller side for the master, so you don't blow out the Slave. Hope that helps.