How to fix RPM Noise (EMI) on your Fuel Injected converted engine. FiTech/Sniper/Holley

[@stevebrown6175]

I never really had an RFI issue with my sniper but started from the get go with all of the same tricks as you and added a few: 1) CS style alternator, provides cleaner voltage to everything. 2) separate 12v switched relays to provide clean battery power to your FI computer and CD ignition. 3) shielded and grounded all sensor inputs (CTS, O2 and handheld). 4) ran all noisy wires (fan, coil, alt) on one side of the engine and the sensors on the other. 5) fuel pump ran off separate relay directly to the battery. 6) added 2 MSD capacitors, one for the FI and the other for the CD box to work as buffers against voltage spikes and stabilize voltage. Overkill? Maybe but knock on wood, I’ve never had RFI.

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Steve! Those are some AWESOME Tips! I'm going to pin this comment. Thanks again for helping others out!

[@johannesschroff4097]

You did it right. But somehow this feels like checking blood sugar, body fat, allergies and your DNA before going Out forndinner.😢

[@stevebrown6175]

@@johannesschroff4097 agreed but well known and established issues with the Sniper 1 need to be addressed by the end user. FiTech is about the same. Good news is the new Sniper 2 corrects most all of the issues. At least on paper.

[@FastMonty]

@@stevebrown6175 Ha! Yeah, I saw that... time will tell. Thanks for the comment!

[@FastMonty]

@@johannesschroff4097 HA! Too funny... and, agreed. It is a bummer we have to look out for things to get it to work properly. Thanks for cracking me up!

[@jimshu245]

Used a 6A cdi with my Fitech. Never had this issue. I tried the dizzy control but reverted back to counter weights after it just wasn't running right. You video on the install sheds new light on it and I may redress it this off season. Great channel.

[@FastMonty]

Yeah, that "not running right" feeling... I get it. Hope this gives you some ideas, thanks for the comment!

[@patrickmazzone9066]

Great content learned alot thanks

[@FastMonty]

Awesome! Thanks Patrick!

[@djsutice0]

I had the same happen to me, Sniper ran great, added cdi, coil and halleffect distributor, bom instant EMI. only way i could drive the car was with aircleaner off and hood up. turns out my sparkplug wires (D.U.I) could not supress the extra power/strength of spark the cdi box was putting out , plus i had chafed one of the sparkplug wires. Swapped out to regular wires that had about 500-600 Ohms resistance per foot and all was well again.

[@FastMonty]

Ohhh, thanks for sharing that! I have DUI wires too. I'm going to have to keep an eye on things, as I haven't had a serious test drive yet. (But, chafing a wire will cause a crazy amount of noise, not sure if that alone was the issue?) Anyway, thanks again for sharing!

[@djsutice0]

@@FastMonty Me neither, i can not test the DUI wires again since they are compromised, chafings etc. so i can not blame the DUI wires 100%

[@FastMonty]

@@djsutice0 I hear you... glad you got it fixed!

[@BADD400]

Good video

[@FastMonty]

Thanks!

[@The_Other_Hack]

Had some RFI interference with the sniper on my 68 GTO recently when I was running it with the air cleaner off. Determined it was a bad plug wire and since it only happened with the air cleaner off believe the steel rod that screws the air cleaner on was acting as an antenna. Replaced that steel rod with a Nylon rod from McMaster. Problem solved….I think 🤞

[@FastMonty]

I love it! I hope it's solved too, great idea!

[@craigannettewallace4653]

I run a second earth for my fitech. 1 to body 1 to block that is earthed to frame Run all efi wires about 4 inch away from spark plug leads if possible

[@FastMonty]

Good tips! Thanks Craig!

[@nicwaymire]

Is it really worth all of this pain in the ass just to have efi.... im going back to the carb to keep it simple

[@FastMonty]

Yes, the positives still out weigh the negatives. Thanks!

[@TomMilstead]

Any unused accessory wires should be removed from the pin connector. This lessens the chances that they will pickup interference and can always be put back in if needed!

[@FastMonty]

Well, kinda... yes, as I mentioned, non connected wires act as an antennae. If you remove the one wire from the connector, you still have the same wire on the mating connector going to the circuit board, still acting as an antennae. Best to ground the flying lead. Thanks!

[@OffTheSkooma]

Hey Monty out of curiosity what type of spark plug would you use for a hei distributor? I see copper and platinum does it matter?

[@FastMonty]

The type doesn't matter, as long as it's a "resistor" spark plug. The specs of the plug should tell you that. Good luck!

[@johannesschroff4097]

Do you have some Info in your Setup? CDI Spark Energy 100-150mJ Sparkplugs 5kOhms Plug wires 0.5kOhms Min. distance ign parts to ECU wiring 0.1m Shielding Yes/No Oscilloscope measurements kHz resolution and stuff like that? Maybe These TBIs start working with morr distance tonignition and less Spark Energy?

[@FastMonty]

All good questions... Not sure if it was clear, but my prior set up was an HEI distributor, and worked great. My guess is it's very similar spark energy, same plugs, same wires, same EFI wire location. So, what's changed? The addition of more noise creation (CDI box), and an additional receiver being the two wire distributor, hence the areas of focus for this video. The pinned comment from Steve is exactly what should be done when building and setting up a new system. Thanks for the comment!

[@johannesschroff4097]

@@FastMonty So the CDI Swap was the start of issues? My EMI issue grew over time with the same system, from few misfires to a no start. Recovering ground now slowlely with shielding.

[@FastMonty]

@@johannesschroff4097 The CDI install, AND the two wire distributor addition. And, agreed, start shielding and checking grounds. By the way, you can wrap components with Aluminum Foil as a TEST shield. If it helps, look into permanently shielding that component. Have fun!

[@johannesschroff4097]

@@FastMonty might be of interest for you. I found that 90s GM TBI Spark Plug cables with 20-50kOhms seem to Help. I think i am good now with shielding + resistance wires. Strange that this is not an official guideline for these unshielded TBIs. I recommend this to anyone having These problems. Definitely worth a try even if you loose spark energy, at least you loose EM field intensity.

[@FastMonty]

@@johannesschroff4097 Great tip! And, yeah, I agree... manufacturers should do a better job explaining the risks, but I guess that's why I'm here? Ha, ha... thanks again!

[@AB-80X]

Looks like I'm early😀

[@FastMonty]

Ha! It's my first time trying this "Premiere" release. Apparently, there's a chat screen when this finally posts... we'll see!

[@FastMonty]

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[@davidblair4699]

Fitech is the biggest waste of money and time. Bought one of first ones off the boat. $hit support and even worse performance. Was never able to make it road worthy. It's not even worth blowing up