Faux Roman Shades with Trim - Professional Tutorial and Tips for all Levels

[@susannisbet7232]

Nicely done video. Very informative. The shades look beautiful. So much talent. Very impressive.

[@beinspired1487]

Thank you, my friend, I will see you soon.

[@sueandrews2476]

Love your video! I’m definitely inspired! Blinds look very impressive!❤

[@beinspired1487]

Thank you. I hope you are thrilled with your effort when the blinds are in place.

[@pamsweeney1171]

Loved your video! You are so calm and your talent shines through. Kids are so helpful, aren't they ;-D

[@beinspired1487]

Thank you for your comment. I had found out quite early on that the more het up I was the slower the work would be done, usually due to mistakes and I dislike undoing my own work. As for the kids, they have kept me laughing and going. Good luck with your projects.

[@mathurette644]

Beau travail ! ... Merci pour votre vidéo bien expliquée

[@beinspired1487]

Merci beaucoup, je suis heureux que ma video est utile a tout la monde.

[@annmargaretwatts6474]

How did you hang it using the wood?

[@beinspired1487]

Thank you for your question. With this particular set of shades, she wanted them as flat as possible against the wall without a valance across the top. This meant we just screwed through the wood and on into the wall and the shade fabric covered the screw heads. If you have a valance over them then put 'L' brackets on the valance and then just hang the shades under them. Good luck with your project.

[@annmargaretwatts6474]

@@beinspired1487 Thank you so much. I’m hoping to cut out my fabric, in the next couple of days, and wondered what else I needed to put on the shopping list along with battons and rings.

[@beinspired1487]

@@annmargaretwatts6474 Nothing really, that I can think on. You have front fabric, lining, thread, rings, the rods for the bottom to hold the fabric out and in shape, and the wood for the top, screws then maybe trim if desired. Hope my video covers everything else you need, if not ask away and I will try to help out.

[@annmargaretwatts6474]

@@beinspired1487 Thank you so much. You've asked all my questions. Very much appreciated.

[@beinspired1487]

@@annmargaretwatts6474 I am here to help. Thank you, for asking as someone else might have the same or similar questions.

[@esullivan765]

HI! Terrific tutorial. I have a friend who wants me to sew this kind of valance for a window that is 92" wide. She also wants the top to be a rod pocket instead of mounted to a board. No trim and just regular curtain lining. Do you have any tips for sewing the valance?

[@beinspired1487]

If you can run the face fabric sideways as I did here that saves on seaming fabrics together. Failing this due to a pattern that dictates the way it has to go. You will need two drops (or 3 if the fabric is less than 54"/137cms) of fabric, allowing for pattern matches. One length, you cut in half lengthways and join the salvaged edges to either side of the remaining length, making sure of a neat pattern match. This makes the widest drop the center of the valance/blind. The lining can be put in sideways as on the video. Put the pocket in for the weighted length of wood at the bottom, put the rings on and tie off the pleats as in this video. Measure up for the length of the blinds as even as you can as you might need to make these a little closer together than I did and place the pins in so you can use them as your fold line. Having pressed this into place, adjust the remaining fabric into your rod pocket and sew it into place. Lastly, put the lenth of wood into the pocket at the base of the blind and sew shut as this would be awkward to maneuver if done the other way round. Take your time and if you need help working out yardage I will try to help, good luck

[@esullivan765]

@@beinspired1487 Oh my gosh, thank you for your quick response! Fortunately, my friend wants a solid color fabric, so I don't have to match up patterns. I was planning on placing the rings closer together so the pleats don't sag in the middle. Thanks for your help!

[@beinspired1487]

@@esullivan765 Thank you for asking the questions. I seem to think I gave suggested measurements for the spacing for the rings in the video. Not much closer than 8"/20cms or wider than12"/30cms, the rings on each end can be 3-4"/7.5-10cms in from the outside edges depending on how firm the fabric is. Make sure they are evenly spaced and in straight columns as they will pull a little if they are wonky. The baton along the bottom should be sewn in, then bugs can not get in there and it also helps to keep everything taut which should in return keep the folds from sagging. For narrow blinds, I tend to use 1/2"1cm dowels, for wider blinds I use a flat trim as this comes in longer lengths which you can cut down. I have glues two dowels end on together and then stapled them at 3 or 4 points to hold the joint firmly in place. This will work for static blinds if you want to do that. The only reasons the folds will sag is if you do not pull them into place properly and also if you do not put a baton along the bottom of the blind. The sides at the bottom of the blind tend to pull towards the center which is more noticeable on long working blinds or really wide blinds as the weight is in the center of them, which is why you need to make sure there is something along the bottom to hold everything firmly in place.