FC 559 Video 2 - Fuel system parts familiarization

This video goes through the components in the fuel system giving a brief overview of the fuel system parts. It is necessary to know what these parts are called.

[@tylercampbell7555]

Great info better teacher than Cummins online training.

[@downunderjuice]

Thank you for the video, great explanations.

[@ENGINESHOPJOE]

You are welcome!

[@dimenicomendez5688]

This was the BEST video I’ve seen in a long time.

[@chuckbrown7570]

What is the proper procedure to filling #4 screen after cleaning?

[@ENGINESHOPJOE]

I think i probably was not saying that as clearly as i could have. The screen in the banjo fitting that mounts the fuel supply line to the pump head is there to catch any dirt particles that may of gotten past the on engine fuel filter. The fuel filter on the engine when replaced should be put on dry. Recently we are seeing cummins fuel filters with plastic plugs in the center hole. SO if you do prefill that filter you get NO fuel in the center (filtered fuel) hole. I was talking about not filling that on engine filter correctly or dumping shop fuel into the center hole to fill it. Any dirt that got in there would hopefully be catched by the screen. The big deal is dirt larger than about 6 microns can damage injector internal sealing surfaces. What we do is screw on the new filter by hand and back it off 1/2 turn. We put a drain pan under the filter and start doing ign key cycles-two minutes on then off two minutes (so the ecm resets the electric priming pump timer) then key on until the primer pump stops then key off two minutes. We do this until fuel starts running down the fuel filter. Then we tighten it to spec and do one more key cycle then start her up and off we go. Hope that clears it up and thanks for bringing that to my attention

[@prashanshan7125]

Nice work..need a fuel system block diagram to understand it better.

[@bababa39]

I've got an ISX15 2250 that is losing prime after it sits awhile. It's holding pressure at the rail when doing the rail decay test in InSite. I hooked a clear hose between the water separator and the priming pump. I also tried bypassing the separator completely. It'll suck fuel (no air in clear hose) and it'll run...but when I shut off the key...the fuel will run back and empty the clear hose. Also, I can hear fuel running back to tank after shutting off the key. I can also hear fuel running to the tank while the priming pump is running. My electric priming pump is only a few months old. Is there another check valve that could be allowing fuel to run back to the tank on the suction side? No leaks have been found) (I also get an intermittent 559 code under heavy load sometimes...not sure if it's because it's sucking air on the suction side somewhere)

[@ENGINESHOPJOE]

Put a dump line on the filter on the engine and run it into a bucket. Put the ecm in dyno mode so it reves up to 2100 rpm. You can also have someone set the wo/vss parameter to 2100 and it will always rev up that high. (That setting is to protect the engine from cold reving and to stop drivers from disabling the vss and driving as fast as they want too. ) Run the WARM engine up to 2100 and watch for air coming out of the dump line if no air its not that issue. The primary filter on the frame is a big offender when it comes to this. If you have a way of bypassing that filter completely run the truck with it bypassed until all the air is out. then let it sit over night and see if your problem is gone. The return fuel has to be under the fuel level in the tank. so the return has a stay tube in the tank as well and it must stay under the fuel level or it will drain back. Make sure it is not cracked. You can test this by blocking off the return at the tank after you shutdown and then rehook it next morning and see if it starts up. I doubt it is the lift pump. Make sure you dont see any damp spots at hoses or pressure lines(soft lines) if you do that can cause a drain back but does not actively leak.

[@bababa39]

@@ENGINESHOPJOE hi Joe. I ended up pulling the top off the fuel pump and one of the springs were broken and a plunger was down and wouldn't return up at all when pressed. Then looked in the bottom of the pump and a tappet is seized and roller is gone. I can't get the tappets out to inspect the cam. Not good I cut open my oil filter and didn't see any metal after pressing the oil out so hopefully I caught it before anything too terrible. Replacing the whole pump tomorrow.

[@ENGINESHOPJOE]

@@bababa39 The pump should fix you up. If you are close to an oil change do it when you change the pump.

[@robrmz447]

Great videos! Im having an issue with my isx15, I don’t have a diagnostic tool but the truck has lost some power overall and there is three warnings on the dash board. “ fuel rail 1” “fuel rail pressure” and “fuel metering valve”. I changed the filters and inspected the barrels, plungers and tappets and they are in good shape. Any ideas??

[@ENGINESHOPJOE]

Fuel metering valve is most likely your fuel actuator solenoid. It bolts into the aluminum block that is bolted to the back of the injection pump head. If you are logging faults on the actuator and the harness is ok it most likely is the root of the issue. There are a couple different faults for rail pressure depending on how low and how long measured is below commanded. Remember I have extremely limited information when I answer your questions so buy parts with wisdom not because i said i think that is what is wrong. Having said that if the fault is on the actuator Id change it.

[@moavan7555]

I have the same issue. Let me know how you fix it, please

[@iamfromthegov]

alot of good information

[@justabosalas2493]

Nice video! Change my filters. Cycled and truck crank and shut off. Tried starting again and would not run. Noticed that the fuel/water separator filled half way when key was turn off. And when I tried starting it would suck down? Is the separator supposed to fill up before cranking?

[@ENGINESHOPJOE]

When you change fuel filters if you install them dry it takes (5) key cycles to fully prime the filters. that is at about 2 minutes each key cycle. Depending on the type of primary filter you have it may not completely fill. If you bowl is on top some of the racors have an air space in the top. They say if those fill to the very top it is time to change the filter as it is plugging. I have not verified that I was told that.

[@Joseph-wc7sx]

Love your videos man. I was wondering if you have a list of all the test hoses and stuff to test for 559 code? I know it’s just a few compuchecks and some hoses and guages but not sure which ones exactly. I would love to buy a kit if it’s available

[@Joseph-wc7sx]

Maybe even if you build a kit yourself then resell it that would probly be a good idea. I would buy it

[@ENGINESHOPJOE]

Thats a great question We actually put together a " lite kit" for our branches and I will put up a video Next week with what is in the kit.

[@gabrielzazueta2218]

Once again awesome video. I’m starting to realize I need to know how these systems work to be able to diagnose problems.

[@misaelguerrero237]

I got a bad vibration coming from the hose that connects to the ecm cooling plate I can figure it out I have no code just this load hugging noise going between 10rpms to 13 rpms

[@melodicimpressions]

check the pressures in the filter if they jump or spike up or down when the vibration changes it is probably pump related

[@misaelguerrero237]

@@melodicimpressions I luckily found the problem it was the high pressure gear pump I got the part at cummings dealer in Dallas tx for about 11hundred swap the part and off we go I'll post the part number later thanks for the reply I really appreciate everything helps.

[@dn8533]

5 star ⭐!

[@clintendicott2950]

My isx15 will start and run for about 1 minute or so then shut down. Would this be the primer pump. It ran out of fuel and i cant keep it rumming. The primer pump isnt very loud when its running. BTW?

[@ENGINESHOPJOE]

Once it starts it does not need the primer pump. Because you said isx15 I am thinking it is a common rail engine. If you get even a small slug of air in the common rail it will shut off pretty quickly. Try key on and dont crank until the primer pump shuts off. See if there are any changes. If yes it might be the primer pump. We just had one they did a service to (oil /fuel filters) and the primer pump was running but it would not start. We had to replace the primer pump and it fixed that one. Don't assume it is the primer pump but see if it is pumping fuel to the filter on the engine. It could be some issue with the fuel gear pump as well. It does have a seal in it that can suck air. But my experience is the gear pump is pretty bullet proof.

[@laloyup8164]

Wow, love it

[@andresr7341]

Recently i replaced the lift pump on my 2250 isx15, im having alot of trouble getting this thing running, it looks like its not getting enough fuel i been priming it but not fire yet, on the #1 manifold there is a check valve should i take it out and clean it? or could that be the reason why is not getting enough fuel up to the second filter, i taken the main pump apart before never had any issues, idk if i got a bad lift pump or debris. Thx for any advice

[@ENGINESHOPJOE]

If that check valve does not close completely the lift pump cannot pull fuel from the tank so it is worth a check. You should check the pressure in the filter on the engine with the lift pump running. depending on the color of the lift pump harness you should be reading 10-15psi or 30-38 psi. The new lift pumps put out more pressure to help priming issues. If you have no pressure in the filter on the engine when the lift pump is running then you have to work backwords. I always used a 5 gallon bucket of fuel and put a #10 line that was about 6ft long (i made that up as a test line) on the inlet fitting on housing #1 and the other end went into the bucket. If it primes or not you know you just really narrowed the search down. That is a very good diagnostic trick. Oh if you use a 0-100 psi gauge to check that lift pump pressure Don't start the engine until you take the gauge off. I ruined a couple gauges over the years when I was working too fast and finally got lift pump pressure and then started the engine :O

[@andresr7341]

@ENGINESHOPJOE hey Joe thx for the quick response, I want to share with you that it was a defective paccar paper filter on the primary filter or water separator, that filter has a little plastic stick inside the filter by the rubber seal that need to make contact with the inside of the plunger filter housings, the one i had the plastic stick was missing not allowing the lift pump to pump correctly and prime the system, put a new one this am and got good pressure and prime by 3 key cycles the engine fire right away, I hope this help someone else took me 3 days to get this thing running, I had replaced 2 fuel lines from the lift pump to the gear fuel pump with seals washers and all. Thx for the great videos 🍻