Feelworld FW759 / FW759P field monitor - Very detailed HANDS ON (with calibration settings) (!)

[@PhilippJansen]

Due to your review I bought a Feelworld FW-759P. Unfortunately the calculations of the histogram, the zebras and the false color rely on the monitor's brightness. A simple trick to test this is out is to put a lens cap on your camera and have a look at the histogram: All pixels should be located on the left side. False color should only show the color assigned to the lowest IRE level (Feelworld's monitor uses dark blue). The histogram seemed fine and the false color too but when I raised the monitors brightness level the pixels in the histogram shifted to middle and the false color changed from dark blue over to light blue and to green. So both functions indicate a medium exposure although the actual captured image (just the pitch black lens cap) did not change. Same thing applies to the zebra function: The more you you increase the screen’s brightness the more zebras you get. So these "P functions" are not working properly, cannot be used for productive work and are not worth their money. I also encountered other issues which might be worth mentioning: - False color mode only uses six colors (dark blue, light blue, green, yellow, orange and red). Other brands (e. g. Atomos, SmallHD, Aputure) use much more differentiated scales. Furthermore Feelworld offers no explanation which color represents which IRE level. - Even if you tighten the cold shoe adapter to its limit the mounted monitor might swivel if you touch or push it a little (e. g. by pushing the buttons). - The buttons click fairly loud which might be recorded by nearby microphones. - When installing a battery you have to be careful: I often pushed the battery contacts down when I tried to insert a battery pack. You have to push down the battery with a bit of force. - I tried to calibrate the FW-759P using SMPTE bars but I was unable to recreate the dark purple square. Apart from that the colors are fine. - The menu button is located right in between the navigation buttons (left, right, up and down arrow). For me it complicates the navigation because I often press it by accident when I try to hit the arrow keys. - Focus peaking might sometimes detect unsharp edges. - All activated functions (e. g. false color or peaking) are also applied to the monitor's menu which makes it hard to see / read. Not everything is negative about this field monitor: The installation of the sun hood for example is really easy and the image is clear and crisp. Just for checking your image composition this monitor is fine (although the non-P model would get the job done too). Instead of buying the FW-759P I would recommend getting the FW-759 because the P's extra functions are not of practical use. I will return my Feelworld monitor and I already got a much better replacement: The Aputure VS-2 FineHD. The latter offers - a bit more then full HD resolution (1920x1200; the extra pixels are used for on screen menus and scales), - working false color (with an explained and much bigger color scale), - audio meters, - firmware updates (downloadable and can be installed all by yourself), - easy four-way red illuminated selection buttons and the accessories you get with it are great (NP-F550 battery, battery charger, small case, magic arm, two HDMI cables, cleaning cloth, etc.). The Aputure VS-2 FineHD costs about 250 / 280 bucks but for me it is worth it (taking all the accessories and features into account).

[@AustrianGeek]

+o0PGJ0o Hmm. That´s bad to hear. Though: Just let the brightness at the standard value (which is 50). It´s more or less the optimal brightness anyway. The exposure assist shifting problem is btw. the case with many cheaper screens (though it wasn´t possible to test them in this video , as I only had the standard FW759). It´s still a very good (and quite colour accurate) screen at it´s very low price point. There´s just no alternative actually.

[@eduardofalcao4878]

How turn off battery percent display? great review/!!!

[@Jlird808]

@@eduardofalcao4878 Where is the battery percent display? I cant figure out how to see the battery life.

[@RicoRomanProductions]

Awesome review, very detailed. Thank you!

[@realworld1626]

Do this monitor have good colors or is there any delay in the video? And can this work with sony Zve10?

[@plutoniumseller]

Great and detailed review... Just what I've been looking for.

[@findingjoe]

Fantastic review. Do you know whether the Feelworld FW689-HD is as good quality as this one. There are a few models on the website and i'm not sure of the difference only the Feelworld FW689-HD is less expensive.

[@freestylerja16]

Your videos are very detailed and I have learned a lot from them! I just noticed these guys made a FW760 that's 1920 by 1200. It has a bunch of features like histogram, false color and more peaking features. Do you think it is a better investment for the extra 50 bucks? I really like have my grams and forms on my screens! I also hope the quality is up to par as well, mainly retaining the detail for focusing. what do you think? Thanks again!

[@AustrianGeek]

I know - But THX for the hint. I added now a box mentioning the FW760. ^^ About buying the FW760: Yes. I think it´s worth the few bucks more. I think they just changed the panel (and the software). So it SHOULD be on par overall quality wise. The higher resolution helps alot to focus even better (also without the focus helpers - Like Focus Peaking and zooming). And as it´s really not THAT much more expensive -> I personally would go for it. Maybe I´ll do that in the future (as I actually sold the FW759 to test out other models).

[@freestylerja16]

Awesome man thanks for the reply, I will definetely be getting FW760 thanks to you! Keep the good stuff coming!

[@mtahirfilms]

Good review as always! I have film camera with a video tap that produces 352 x 288 (PAL). I presume the best monitor for such a low bandwidth signal is a 800 x 400 type? Is anything higher than that not worth it e.g. FW759? I looked at a Viltrox DC-50 and a Lilliput 569GL-50NP/HO/Y. I wasn't looking for more than 5" and it's only to show decent picture of what's being filmed - it's not for focusing, exposure etc. The 5" ones are almost the same price as the 7" ones. What is your opinion on this? Thanks.

[@AustrianGeek]

Hmm. Good question - First time someone asked according analog connections ^^. Overall avoid the newer models. Some of them still offer analog inputs. BUT: You need weird adapters to get the signal connected (like with the FW759 for example - Or the Viltrox DC-50 / DC-70 and so on). And the more affordable models are by far not optimised anymore for analog signals (as 99% are not using analog signals anymore - At least not with direct connections to the camera - Wireless is another story ^^). So search for the older models (like the older generation Lilliputs) with good old BNC connectors - Like the already mentioned 569GL for example (or the 665GL - Which is quite ok 7" model - Basically the 5D-II model with more analog inputs ^^). I would try to get a used 569 though - I saw them multiple times go away used in like new condition for about 50$ (and i like the small form factor). You need to be lucky to get it at such a good price. But if you´re not in a hurry, you maybe get a bargain screen with good quality. ^^ Btw.: I also have to mention -> Don´t expect wonders (or a really usable image for focus pulling or so). The resolution is just too low over the old analog connections. But at least you get a better sense for framing your shots (and you can replace defect viewfinders or onboard screens) ^^. Hope that helps. =)

[@mtahirfilms]

Thanks for info. I've been looking for the 569 but it's still expensive. I've realised that 5" models tend to be more expensive than the 7" ones.

[@mtahirfilms]

The 569 is proving to be too expensive. I have found a 5" Bestview going for a very good price. It has a 3.5mm input with a cable that can give you a composite video input. Not ideal but might be ok.

[@marcosviascon]

Hello, very nice review! this monitor come whit Zebra? and what is the better the Feelworld FW759 or the Aperture 7 vs? i also lock the review from Aperture to.Thanks!

[@AustrianGeek]

+Pulpiño Viascón Thx. About the Zebras: Only the FW759P is coming with zebras (but according other comments here you need to let the brightness at the standard 50 value - Otherwise you´re shifting it exposure wise -> But that´s even the same with the Aputure VS-2). If you need more accurate and adjustqable meters, it´s maybe a good idea to invest more in another higher quality screen, as the zebras are also not adjustable with the FW759P (by yourself). Though: At least you get the histogram and the 2nd focus assist / peaking mode with the more expensive / advanced FW759P model. But if you don´t need those two, it makes no sense to invest the few bucks more for the "P" Model. OVERALL the FW759 is WAY better than the older Aputure VS-2 (7") - It´s producing a better image (clearer and more colour accurate). At least if you feed a native 720 or 1080 resolution image (it´s not perfectly working with 480P signals from Canon cameras - But that´s a common / normal problem with these older models -> The low resolution is jut too limiting according focus peaking and general focus pulling.) The new upgraded Aputure VS-2 FineHD on the other hand I never tested til now. Maybe they fixed a few points / problems compared to the older models. But if you want to be sure to get a good screen, just go for the FW759 or FW759P. It´s actually one of the best (super cheap) screen on the market (if not THE best) ...

[@AustrianGeek]

+Pulpiño Viascón Ok. Forget about the VS-2 FineHD - Semms like it has the same contrast, colours and highlight / shadow detail issues like the older VS-2 model. Two alternatives: IKAN DH5 5" screen (more expensive but good features and also coming with an 1080P panel) - Or you could also get a used Atomos Ninja Blade for example - Also 5" screen - But it´s also a recorder (1080P 4:2:2 10bit) AND you get nice exposure features like: False colours, zebras, waveform, RGB parade and even a vectorscope. It´s offering 720P resolution (and an IPS screen which you can even calibrate with their colorimeter) ...

[@marcosviascon]

Thank you very much! very friendly, really I wanted one not very expensive, is to put under the Steadycam I think best of 7 although the Ikan you told me is fine, what matters most to me is that you can see the image outdoors.

[@AustrianGeek]

Well - It´s quite hard up to impossible to find a good super bright screen (at a lower price point). The only chance is, that you´re lucky and find an older one (cheaply) -> For example used on Ebay. You don´t even need the highest resolution - As you´re using it for framing primarily / only.

[@marcosviascon]

+AustrianGeek ok!, thanks for the information👍

[@serj2008]

Awesome review! I'm certainly gonna buy it! :D Thanks a lot!

[@andreyknyazev5560]

Great review. Can you please try to unscrew and remove the battery plate? Possibly there is a mini-USB port behind the plate (Feelworld 3.5" EVF has it) and you can power this monitor using some powerbank.

[@AustrianGeek]

+Андрей Князев There´s only a 2 pin connector to the battery plate if you unscrew it. Btw.: Are you sure, that the USB is for powering the device? Normaly such ports are only to upgrade the firmware (with a flash drive for example). An alternative would be to use an DC-to-DC step up converter (and connect that to the 2.1mm DC port for example). That way you could easily upconvert from the 5V to the 7.2V for example (or any other voltage which is working with the FW759 / FW759P).

[@AlexLosAngeles]

i get no picture when i connect it to my a7r2 i dont think its the hdmi cable, is there a setting on my camera i gotta change?

[@AustrianGeek]

Yes. Try to change the HDMI output to 1080P (as in AUTO mode, the cameras sometimes don´t recognise, that the monitor isn´t 4K capable). As soon as you switch it, you also should get an image. Btw.: Also keep yourself in the "movie mode" on the top dial (as long as you´re shooting videos). In this mode the HDMI out is also more constant (no more blackouts - Which are partly the case if you´re starting the video recording in the other modes). Hope that helps - Have a nice day ^^

[@nixdraufable]

Great review, thanks for that. I am interested in buying this monitor, just 1 question .. there are some monitors which dont show full screen if you are not in video mode. If used with a Sony Alpha 7 Mark 2 .. will this monitor show fullscreen in all modes? video and also manual shooting or aperture priority mode?

[@mvrck-pb5pk]

Great video again, thanks for sharing! How about a review of the Feelworld F7, you mentioned in your reply to my post in your Lilliput 5D-II O/P? TIA, Cheers

[@AustrianGeek]

It´s planned. But first I need to make a video about the Aputure VS-2 FineHD (if there´s time). Overall the F7 should be basically the same software wise as the FW759/FW760 (just with more features) - And the hardware should be quite similar to the 1080P panel FW760 version. So if you need a screen now - Go for it (and maybe report back your experiences) =)

[@kyrrebjrdalsther4577]

This looks like a great buy! I am looking to use it mounted to the DJI Ronin M, but I am wondering what kind of mount you would recommend and what comes in the package with thie Feelworld one?

[@AustrianGeek]

Hmm. You could use a small universal clamp (on the horizontal rod / rail of the Ronin) and the already included small ballhead on top to mount the screen (so you´re still able to tilt it through the ballhead). Or you could also use one of the Ronin M compatible clamps (which are secured better) - There are also a few 3rd party ones available (and use the ballhead on one of those). According powering it: Hmm. The bad thing is, that you need the "DJI Power Distribution Box" for the Ronin M, to power the screen directly from the battery. Maybe you can find one used (cheap), as it´s not perfect, to use a seperate battery on the screen. Why? Because with the smaller Sony NP-F it´s not running THAT long. And the ballhead isn´t the most stable one (to use the bigger NP-F970 for example). Beside that, you´re adding more weight (which is also not wanted most of the time). It´s also easier to change one battery than to keep an eye on two (the Ronin AND the monitor). You could even power your camera from the "DJI Power Distribution Box" with an additional DC coupler. Then you only need one battery for your whole setup ^^.

[@RamGanesh]

great review - what is the difference between FW760 & FW74K - is it same as FW760 but with 4k capability? if so, is FW74K (rebranded as neewer nw74k) better buy? they are essentially same price in amazon ($185-$189)

[@AustrianGeek]

Well - The FW74K is a 1:1 brother of the FW759 - Same features (same 1280x800 resolution). Just with a 4K capable scaler at the HDMI input. That way you can use direct 4K siganls from different cameras. That´s important with the GH4 for example - As the AF performance is worse / slower, if you select 4K to 1080P scaling on the HDMI. So with the FW74K you could use 1:1 4K output (and you would get better AF). But the difference is quite minor / not THAT huge (as the GH4 is still not perfect AF wise) ^^. About the FW760: It´s also similar to the FW759 - But it´s coming with more software features from scratch on compared to the FW759 - It´s more compareable to the FW759P model features wise. PLUS: You get the higher panel resolutiion (which is 1920x1200). Great to pull the focus. Too bad, that there´s no 4K version of the FW760 - As it would be great to zoom into the 4K image (with 1:1 pixel output on the native 1080P capable panel). Overall the FW760 should be the best choice actually (if it´s not a "must have" to output 4K over the HDMI). Btw.: If you plan to use an external 4K recorder, the FW74K is again the better choice. (At least if you plan to use it together with the recorder. As then you need to output 4K over the HDMI anyway ^^.) Hope that helped (and it wasn´t written too confusing) ^^.

[@serj2008]

+AustrianGeek how much does the battery last and what capacity is the battery exactly? I need to know how many to order

[@AustrianGeek]

+Sergiu Gherman Had the option to test it today with an NP-F970 battery (OEM Standard Model with 6600mah) - It is running for over around 8 hours (easily). So it is also quite low in power consumption. With the NP-F550 battery (which is also used in this video) it ran for around an hour and 30 minutes only (tested it already in the past). Though: This one was only a 2000mah battery - So one of the lowest capacity models. I think it is the best to go for the NP-F970 battery (or maybe an NP-F730/750/770 if you can get them super cheap). Why? Because they have the best price / capacity ratio. Just a little bit on the heavy side - I know ^^. (Normaly I use external battery plates to power multiple devices. That way you also keep the weight low on the monitor directly. Need to make a video about that solution some time in the future.)

[@serj2008]

+AustrianGeek Thanks a lot! Gonna buy the F970

[@zachrichey1570]

I have a Nikon D3200 and this monitor and each time I go to hit live view, the camera live view and monitor go dark each time? Also, what ring light are you using? ;D

[@AustrianGeek]

Hi there. Try to switch the HDMI out from Auto (or 1080i/p to 720P). The camera is dropping the resolution anyways to 720P while recording - As far as I remember (so by switching to this mode, it´s at least staying on - And there is no "blackout" time when pressing the rec button). Secondly: You need to switch through the info display modes with the info button on the left bottom corner -> That way you get a bigger image (I am just not sure if you get a 100% full screen one - But at least you can switch through the amount of information displayed). If it´s still not working, try out a differnt cable (or try it out on a TV set) - That way you can test, if it´s a problem with the cable or the field monitor (many times the super cheap included HDMI cables are the problem). About the ring-light: It´s the F&V R300 (with milk filter attachement). Not the best on the market anymore - But it´s a "good old standard" around 85 CRI and with 5600K (with the standard diffusor). If you´re interested to buy one: There is also a 15mm rod attachement available (which I use most of the time). And as a side note: The milk filter shifts the color temperature a little bit. It´s then around 4700 to 4800K (not at 5600k anymore). Just in case you plan to mix it with other lights (CRI / TLCI on the other hand stays the same - I measured it a few weeks ago) ^^. Hope that helps =). Have fun shooting (!)

[@johnf3847]

Hello. I am sorry but I don't understand how the check field works? You said something about calibration. Would that be when using SMTPE color bars? Sorry, I am just beginning learning all of this. thank you.

[@AustrianGeek]

You can use the blue-gun mode (which is showing blue image content only) to calibrate ROUGHLY with the color charts / color bars for monitor calibration (just search for it over google - Its a quite common but also very old calibration method). But also keep in mind: It´s by far not as accurate as a colorimeter / color calibrator would be. And it´s also not showing how high the contrast is (aka how much is "cut off" by the screen in the shadows or in the highlights for example). So it´s just a minor helper (the blue ony / blue gun mode). ^^ But also keep in mind: You don´t need it with the Feelworld screens anyways - They are quite accurate out of the box. And you don´t get any better calibration just with the color charts and the blue-gun mode. You need a color calibrator (to calibrate the RGB channels roughly) and then it´s the best option to compare the final picture which is coming out of the camera with the field-monitor picture (according the shadows / highlights / contrast) to get the most accurate image while shooting. Hope that helps to clear it out a little bit. LG

[@johnf3847]

Yes it does, thank you

[@havellteylar2598]

How do I mount the Feelworld monitor to my Panasonic GH4 camera?

[@AustrianGeek]

You can use the ballhead which is included with the screen (you can see it at the 2:19 timestamp). Or you can also mount you GH4 to a rig / small baseplate with 15mm rods, and then mount the screen to a magic arm. You´re more flexible with the 2nd solution. But it should also work with the 1st one ^^.

[@Kazanchev]

Hi! Does FW759P have issues with zebras (offset after calibration) like the Aputure monitor that you reviewed? Thanks!

[@AustrianGeek]

+Kazanchev Well - I cannot tell you that - Sorry. As I only had the FW759 in my hands til now. BUT: The "P" model is already worth it according the histogram (which is nice to have as an overlay on the screen direclty). And at least you get the option to use the zebras (even if you would need to switch back to one of the standard settings to get more accurate readings). Maybe someone who is using the "P" model already can answer that question ... But I don´t think that you´ll run into any problems at all (in general). I just calibrated my screen slightly. And you could even use the "standard" picture profile (which is also usable). Btw. don´t forget - That would be only necessary "IF" there are really offsets in the Zebra readings. ^^

[@Kazanchev]

+AustrianGeek I've recieved my FW759P. Zebras are useless, "right" color is only in P2P mode (useless too), all "P" functions are pretty much useless. The 480P mode on my 550D looks so awful, can't focus at all, everything's just a blur, the interface is out of the screen... Focus peaking is a joke. Really dissapointed. Do you known where I can download new firmware? Official site has blank download page...

[@AustrianGeek]

Oh. That´s bad to hear - Are the zebras not adjustable? And according the colours: Why are they only right in Pixel 2 Pixel mode? Shouldn´t be the case. 480P output from the older Canon bodies is always problematic btw. - It´s just SD resolution (so external screens are not THAT of a help at all). They are bigger - Sure - But they are not giving much more details to focus signifficantly easier for example. The "camera mode" (which forces 480P output on the FW759) is btw. meant to deliver more of the video image - So it´s cropping of parts of the image to zoom the center part a little bit. If you need all of the overlays, disable this mode - The image should then be a little bit sharper too (as it´s not zooming digitally monitor internal). Btw.: If the aspect ratio isn´t correct (with camera mode switched off), try to fixate the aspect ratio to 4:3 (in the FW759 menue). And try combining these settings (camera mode + 4:3 mode) to find the best combination. In general the T2i / 550D is the limiting part - And not really that nice according external monitors. If you want better HDMI output it´s maybe a good idea to upgrade to a used 650D or even 700D (they are already very cheap on the used market and both magic lantern compatible). Just saying - With the 550D you will not be happy with an external screen (and a 1280x800 screen with such a low resolution is also quite useless) ...

[@Kazanchev]

+AustrianGeek The zebras are not adjustable! They provide wrong results before and after calibration. Calibration also affects the zebras. The P2P mode gives ideal picture with best color reproduction (like camera sreen). Saturation (sharpness and contrast too) shifts when the P2P mode is off. You can try it yourself. Connect Feelworld monitor to the PC, set 1280*800 resolution and try turning it (P2P) on and off, you'll see what I mean. The P2P mode is not affected by sharpness settings and stragely affected by saturation, contrast and brightness.

[@AustrianGeek]

Hmm. Ok. So it´s the same like with the Aputure VS-2 I tested a year or so ago (according the zebras shifting). At least the FW759P is only about 10 bucks more expensive compared to the standard FW759 model (and at least the histogram and the additional peaking mode should be worth it - Especially if you have a camera or camcorder without internal histogram or without an histogram in video mode - Like many Nikon DSLRs). According the P2P mode: Hmm. Yes - Sometimes it makes sense in general to use the P2P mode (as that way the internal scaler is bypassed / not used anymore). So you´re getting a better image because of that (as far as it´s possible according the input type / signal type). But it´s a little bit weird that it´s shifting the saturation and contrast too. Sharpness is more or less normal - As the scaler is bypassed (which is used to add more sharpness). Maybe also the rest of the settings are affected that way. I had it connected to the PC too - As always within my monitor testing procedure (but I didn´t check it according P2P vs. non-P2P mode). THX for the info btw. (!)

[@schoolwomenshairstyles30]

Please tell me, I have now ordered this monitor, unsure.... it is compatible with Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark II ?

[@AustrianGeek]

Гарик Агрба Yes. The M5 II outputs HDMI live view. So its compatible ^^

[@schoolwomenshairstyles30]

Thank you very much!

[@iacovos]

Would you recommend a Feelworld over the Lilliput 663? (SDI model). I'm looking for a monitor for my blackmagic 4k production camera that has an sdi input. Cheers!

[@AustrianGeek]

+Iacovos Argyrides Well - If you don´t mind the higher payload of the 663 (and the bigger size), it´s the better choice overall (but it´s also WAY pricier compared to the FW759 or FW759P together with an cheap SDI to HDMI converter). On the other hand: You get the WAY better software features with the 663/S2 model (waveform, vectorscope, RGB histogram and so on). So you also get more for your money. So I would go for the 663/S2. Though I also want to mention an alternative: The Atomos Samurai Blade. It´s a 5" IPS panel recorder (which you don´t really need for recording - I know). But you can also use it as a screen only. The HUGE pro: It´s quite small (with it´s 5 inches), though coming with a high pixel density (native 720P) screen which you can even calibrate with the X-Rite I1 Pro (and the soon coming firmware update). That´s quite unique - Normaly you cannot calibrate external field monitors perfectly. And the point is, that you get it for about 250 to 300 bucks now - Used (with native SDI input) - So it´s super cheap (directly compared to "straight" field monitors). And it´s also coming with: Waveform, Vectorscope and even RGB Parade (which isn´t even included with the 663/S2 for example and which I LOVE with my Ninja Blade model btw.). So you´re also getting better scopes. And ATOMOS is now also planning to release the "Atomos HDR" mode for it (to display LOG profiles better). PLUS: You can also use it as a backup recorder OR as a recorder with other cameras to. It´s quite nice to have the option ...

[@iacovos]

+AustrianGeek Wow, awesome response as always. I'm based in Europe and can't seem to find the Atomos Blade for the price range that you mention. I've also been thinking about the Feelworld ST-702HSD that has an SDI input at an approachable price, but can't seem to find any valid info on it. Thanks for the reply! :)

[@AustrianGeek]

Don´t oversee - It´s the used price (not new). You need to wait a little bit - But if there´s one offered, they are sold for about that price (at least around 350 to 400 bucks for a "like new" Samurai Blade kit with an SSD or hard drive included). You can also buy it brand new - It´s still quite cheap (especially since the last price drop from Atomos). And if you´re able to get the VAT / fees back, it´s nearly as cheap as a used one ^^. About the Feelworld ST-720HSD: It´s only offering a native 1024x600 panel (which isn´t the best choice - As the scalers are not the best from Feelword). 1280x800 or 1280x720 is better, as it´s able to display exactly a quater (of a standard 1920x1080 signal stream). With the lower 1024x600 resolution of the ST-720HSD you´re adding moiré and aliasing to the image (wich is then displayed BUT NOT recorded - Quite annoying to see moiré and aliasing, even if it´s not on the recorded files). And it´s always important to see (as precise as possible) what gets recorded. If you really want just a field monitor with SDI, go for the 663/S2. It´s really good (at least since the newest firmware updates).

[@iacovos]

+AustrianGeek Well that crosses the st-720 out of my list.. I've seen a few Feelworld sdi monitors that are at 1280x800 like the Feelworld FW1018S which is also a bit cheaper than the Lilliput but at a 10" size. Is it easy to update the firmware on the Lilliput if I buy from Amazon? Or does the S2 model come already with the new firmware?

[@AustrianGeek]

Well - 10" is too big for mobile usage. Even 7" is sometimes too bulky for my taste. About Lilliput firmware updates: You cannot do it by yourself. Only Lilliput is able to update the firmeware (if you send in your device). So if you really want to get the newest edition order from them directly (within europe it´s for example www.lilliputdirect.com). The other online dealers sometimes have older versions on stock.

[@neeon861]

hey thank you very much for your review ! I was wondering if there is a lag time between the screen and the camera because ive seen that some screens have a little latency and it could become a problem if im trying to focus moving subjects on my shoulder rig. Could you confirm me that? Thanks

[@AustrianGeek]

Nope. I didn´t notice any. At least it´s not higher compared to other models. Though: Keep in mind that all cameras are adding a little bit of delay through the HDMI (as it takes its time to process the sensor data and convert it to the HDMI signal). You can also try different HDMI output modes -> For example 4K internal recording to 1080P over the HDMI adds often more delay then 4K to 4K over the HDMI, as there´s a downscaling needed (and that´s done by the camera LSI / processor -> External monitors are normaly faster doing that). To prevent this camera internal 4K to 1080P downscaling (IF you use a 4K capable camera ^^), you can also choose a 4K capable screen like the newer 4K capable Feelworld FW760 / F7 or the IKAN DH5e / DH7 models. Btw.: If you choose the FW760 for example you also get a higher resolution panel compared to the FW759 and even more features than with the advanced features FW759P model - So it´s a good choice and only a few bucks more expensive. But keep an eye on the 4K designation - Some very early FW760 models seems to use the older (non 4K capable) input scaler of the FW759 (not the newer 4K capable one). So check the supported resolutions on the sellers page before ordering ^^. Or go for the brand new Feelworld F7 model (altough that one is coming with fewer buttons and without an HDMI lock - So I don´t know if it´s really useful to go for it, as it´s also more expensive than the FW760 at this time - Software features and the panel seems to be the same - So choose as you like ^^). Hope that helps. And have fun shooting! LG

[@chefwawa]

Thanks for your excellent review. I was wondering how to update my firmware. I have a Neewer 759 which seems to be very similar if not identical to this monitor. I didn't find anything on Neewer's website.

[@AustrianGeek]

Sorry for the late reply. Hmm. As far as I know it´s not possible from scratch on (Feelworld isn´t offering the firmwares as download on their website(s) for example). But you can ask the Neewer or Feelworld support, if they can send you the right file. Btw.: You normaly also see the firmware version at the bottom in the menu. Though: If you bought it not THAT long ago (like my model - Which is quite old already firmware wise), then it should not be necessary to upgrade the firmware ^^.

[@greatapenat]

Hi, I just got this paired with my V770 which was cool advise ty. However, there's a lot of feedback noise. Did you experience this? Do you have any advice on how to cancel it out?

[@AustrianGeek]

Thats the volume you need to turn down on the screen (as the camera feeds the audio live over HDMI, the monitor outputs it over the speaker and the camcorder records that output again and the loop starts all over again - Its called a audio feedback loop - And it´s producing that nasty feedback noise ^^). You need to turn down the volume on the monitor to zero (you can control it over the left / right buttons). Or you can also plug in a headphone to disable the monitors loudspeaker output. Have fun shooting! LG

[@jnorm18]

My center marker is not centered, how do I fix that?

[@MattMayolo]

Hi, thanks for the review! do you know if it can be powered though the usb port?? I know that it says that is for upgrade, but I've seen a couple of other monitors that can be powered by usb even if it doesn't state that anywere. Thanks!

[@AustrianGeek]

Nope - The USB port seems to be only for software updates. And I wouldn´t recommend to try it out to be honest. Btw.: Which other monitors are "powerable" through USB? I don´t know even one model which supports that (maybe because it´s not officially supported ^^). Btw.: It´s not possible to power the FW759 directly trough USB - But you could try to go for an USB power bank with 9V or 12V output for example (and use the standard DC port of the screen with an compatible / the right cable). OR: There are even super small USB step up converters, which are converting the 5V to 12V for example (with the converter even built into the USB plug directly - So no external box or so) - And those are able to deliver up to 6W of power at 12V. Nice fact: As the FW759 just needs 5W max., even such an solutions should work ^^. LG

[@MattMayolo]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/e3SzamalbpemiKc This guy powers the Viltrox DC-70 through the USB port. Yeah, I thought about the converter, it could be the option, but don't know how it's that gonna affect the power consumption, if it's gonna be higher or something like that. Thougth about the usb because in that way I could power the monitor AND a nyrius wireless receiver without needing to buy NP-F batteries. And as it's not specified that monitors can run over USB 5V ports, maybe there are another ones capable of that. Thanks for the response!!

[@AustrianGeek]

Ah. Yes. I remember now - Someone mentioned that already in my review of the Viltrox. But I don´t know if it´s really a good idea to power it that way - It´s for sure just meant to power the display while upgrading the firmware (so its maybe in a special "firmware update mode" while getting power over the USB port). Could also lead to instability or weird behaviour (as the USB 2.0 specification - And I am sure it´s just an 2.0 port - Only allows 0.5 amps - So 2.5 watts in total. Which seems very low for an 7" screen). But anyways - Back to the FW759/759P: It should work even with the super small USB converters. Just keep an eye on the max. wattage. Most of the super small (in plug) converters can handle 0.5 amps at 12V - Which means 6 Watts. The FW759/FW759P has a max. rating of 5W - But it´s for sure below. I don´t have it here to test that anymore - But should work flawlessly. You could also try it out - I ordered such converters a while ago for 2 or 3 bucks or so a piece (from china directly). They work nicely ^^. Btw.: If you want something smaller with < 5 watts of power draw too (though still coming with native 720P screen) then check out the new Feelworld F450 (comes with a 4.5" screen). You could still velcro the nyrius receiver onto the battery - You just need the corresponding velcro stripes on each replacement battery - You get get such endless stripes in many hardware stores ^^. But the F450 isn´t coming with all the features, the 759P has. So if you need a histogram for example, then go for the FW759P if you can find it somewhere (it´s also not THAT easy to find). ^^ Have fun shooting. LG

[@reedeema]

Hi. Does ist have a External Recording feature ?

[@AustrianGeek]

No. Its just a monitor. The unit is also quite old / long on the market now (video is also quite old). There are better units now available with higher brightness and way more features. Unless you get it at a very good price point - Its still a good screen ^^.

[@henrikgustav2294]

can be mounted on hotshoe and tilt down ? so that I can place the camera on my chest and look down

[@AustrianGeek]

Sure it´s possible. But it´s putting strain on your hotshoe (so I am personally not a fan of it as there´s the risk that it breaks). And you can only use the smallest NP-F batteries to save on weight - And so to save on strain on your hotshoe too (so the runtime isn´t really that long too). PLUS: I don´t know how often you would use it - At least if you planned to use it for taking stills (as it´s not really handy compared to an internal articulating screen). It´s maybe better to go for a 2nd camera instead (which offers that feature from scratch on -> With the built in screen). Btw.: I am mentioning that, because I have the experience, that everything which isn´t really handy and "quick and dirty" usable stays at home quite quickly (or is lying unused in a shelf). If you plan to use it for video too, then it´s maybe better to go for a good 5" model (IKAN DH5 or DH5e for example). They are smaller, more lightweight and are also running longer with small batteries. But really think it through before investing money ^^. HTH (Hope that helps) ^^

[@henrikgustav2294]

thank you very much for the help !

[@gabrieldoramececena1923]

Hi, did you try it in direct sunlight? Any comments... is it very reflective?

[@AustrianGeek]

Yes. It is. But there are VERY few models which are really usable outdoors (and i am talking about "good usable" -> As also matte screens suffer in direct sunlight). If you really need something for shooting in direct sunlight you need a super bright model (but those are not THAT common - And you pay a premium just because of that feature) =/.

[@benkastberg]

Hi, I don't know if you will answer this 4 years after, but does the monitor have audio levels showing? Or if my Canon 250D has audio levels, do you know if this will show on the monitor?

[@AustrianGeek]

Nope. That model (the Feelworld FW759) is too old for that. They added that features way later (in the newer models). As a hint: I would check out the smaller and easier to mount Feelworld F5 for that. There you get audio levels (displayed gets whats coming then over the HDMI) - But you also get a headphone out port (in cases where your camera doesn´t have one that´s quite handy - Like its the case with the Canon 250D). Though keep in mind: You get a little bit of a delay over that porst (as the HDMI conversion also takes some time in camera and in the monitor). So its not really handy if you´re recording yourself - As its annoying to hear yourself with a delay while talking ^^. About the audio levels you can also check out the menus (displayed items) of your 250D. Altough it could be, that you only see them if you set the audio in the menu from Auto to Manual (and you only see them then in this sub menu). At least it was the case with my EOS M50 (if I have it right in my backhead). Btw.: You can also try out your 250D first on a computer screen with HDMI (or a TV) if you want to check whats getting displayed (a field-monitor is just a smaller version of that ^^). Have fun shooting! LG

[@benkastberg]

@@AustrianGeek thanks a lot for a quick and thorough response! I really appreciate that. I didn't think of checking my camera on a computer screen but did it just now and saw that the HDMI projects everything from the camera display, so my audio levels will also show. So that's what I wanted to know. Thanks! I got a really good offer on the FW759 which meets my demands atm. (and my the volume of my wallet) so I will just stick with that in the beginning and see how it works. Have a nice day. Take care! :)

[@AustrianGeek]

@@benkastberg You´re welcome ^^. Yeah. The FW759 is quite cheap available sometimes. If you get the levels anyways over the 250D, the 759 also works fine. Have fun shooting ^^. LG

[@Thesbm03]

hey i just got a Sony a7sii and looking for a cheap first monitor, looking at most of your reviews mi leaning towards the feelworld ones but what model would you recommend?

[@AustrianGeek]

Well - The Feelworld FW759 and FW759P screens are REALLY good. But maybe it´s a better idea to check out the new FW760. It´s offering more features from scratch on AND it´s using a better 1920x1200 panel. So you get a better (clearer) image from scratch on. Even peaking isn´t needed anymore most of the time. I didn´t test the FW760 til now (live) - But as it´s building on the same FW759 "base model", it should be as good according the base features (colours, features, built quality and so on). HTH - Hope that helps ^^.

[@Thesbm03]

Yes that does help and is the monitor Id like to get, do you know of any sellers in the US that stocks them? Everywhere I've seen them is over seas... Thanks again!

[@AustrianGeek]

Ryan Rios Sorry - No. I also got my FW759 directly from China. Try to check out all sources (Amazon / Google / Ebay). But as the FW760 is also BRAND NEW, there´s not that much chance, that you get it somewhere locally (it´s even a problem with the FW759 models). Have fun shooting! LG

[@Thesbm03]

Do you happen to know maybe any other models that would be similar that are more American lol would hate to wait so long to get it and not be happy. Thanks again.

[@AustrianGeek]

Ryan Rios Well - You can also check out the IKAN DH7 - Features wise even better than the Feelword - With overall better built quality too (but also way more expensive). Btw.: The DH7 is also available under different brands (NEWAY or under the "Portkeys" brand as the LH7 for example). Under the different brands it´s a little bit cheaper than from IKAN directly - But with the other brands there´s no guarantee, that you will get local support and firmware updates in the future. And IKAN is a local US dealer / brand. ^^ Btw.: Check out Ebay for "DH7 monitor" - There´s actually a like new / slightly used IKAN DH7 for sale ...

[@dablabny9797]

Thanks just wanted to reconfirm will it be good to work with Magic Lantern 1920x1080 as the monitors native resolution is lesser. Also plz advise which vendor to buy on Amazon.

[@AustrianGeek]

+Atif A K It´s working nice with all signal types -> At least with the cameras, which are outputting "normal" aspect ratios (600D upwards or the 5D Mark III for example). It´s not 100% perfect working in the "camera" mode, which is cropping to the 480P (centered) image of some older Canon bodies. But such signals are suboptimal from scratch on - Wich EVERY external monitor ^^. About a seller / dealer: I bought it directly from a chinese seller - So I don´t know which reseller you should (or could) choose - Sorry ...

[@dablabny9797]

+AustrianGeek As I understand it will be good for Mark iii with Magic Lantern even in movie mode. Thanks again for the great work.

[@brandonross7286]

Is there a way to turn off the speaker audio? I was filming a interview yesterday and could hear the speaker output. I guess i could plug up some headphones with separate audio control and turn the volume all the way down, but was just wondering if there was a better way.

[@AustrianGeek]

Sorry for my late reply - Was busy ^^. You need to use the left / right arrows to control the volume. Just put it to zero (then you don´t need to use a 3.5mm plug or headphones to disable the internal speaker. Have fun shooting (!)

[@pauldiming]

Many thanks for a great review! I appreciate all the detail. Maybe that is because I am half German 8-)

[@AirlinersHD]

Do you get battery with that package? Or need to buy + battery?

[@AustrianGeek]

+AirlinersHD You need to buy them seperately. But You can get super cheap packages on Amazon or Ebay for example (with a single charger included - Which are not the fastest charging ones with 6 to 8 hours for one 970 battery - But at least they work ^^). Btw.: I would go for at least the NP-F730/750/770 size (or even the biggest NP-F970) - Then you really only need a package of two batteries for a whole day. Also important: You don´t need to go for the original Sony batteries (they are extremely expensive). Better check out the 3rd party offers on Amazon (there you also get feedback which batteries and packages are acceptable and which are not) ...

[@AirlinersHD]

+AustrianGeek Got my monitor today, and thank you for awnser but this is so so disapointing.....

[@AustrianGeek]

Well - Other screens are coming with an weird / bad charger and a too small battery included (NP-F330 or NP-F550 only with a runtime of an hour or so). Sure - You need to order batteries now additionally - But you´ll get WAY better ones from scratch on ^^. Btw.: I still have lying around a few of that super small / low capacity NP-F batteries (and I barely use them). Just as spares max. ^^

[@AirlinersHD]

+AustrianGeek Tell me, on my Nikon Coolpix P900, when I attach this monitor, I can see videos or images from camera memory but I cant get live image to record videos. Why? Thank you!!!!

[@AustrianGeek]

+AirlinersHD I am sorry to say that - But it seems like the P900 is not outputting any live view HDMI feed while recording (checked the manual and the net). Also as an information to everyone out there -> You need to check the live view HDMI capability with a TV or so BEFORE buying a field monitor. Only a few cameras are outputting an HDMI signal while recording (especially superzooms and compacts are mostly not outputting one - With exception of some Sony models). Btw.: It´s the camera body which is not outputting a signal - So also other screens will not work ...

[@PeterHewat]

Hi, thank you for this detailed review. Can you tell me if the screen goes to blue or to snow when there is no signal? I am looking for a good monitor for FPV (First Person View) on a radio controlled quadcopter and it is important that the monitor gradually goes to snow when analog signal is low and does not go completely go to blue. Cheers

[@AustrianGeek]

+Peter Hewat Hmm. Sorry. But I cannot test this for you (as I don´t have the small adapter cable to check an analog input signal - It´s not included from scratch on in the standard accessories - Just optional). Btw.: How about an converter inbetween the analog and digital signal side (analog to HDMI) - As far as the converter isn´t going to blue / still outputs the signal over HDMI it´s not a problem of the screen anymore. ^^ Another option would be to ask Feelworld directly about that (or order the screen with the optional adapter cable). Btw. also important / a side note: The screen isn´t the brightest one (just keep that in mind). For quadcopter / all the time outdoor work it´s maybe better to go for a used high brightness screen (of any kind). Maybe you can find one used for a good price ...

[@PeterHewat]

+AustrianGeek To check if it goes to blue screen or snow, all you need to do is select analog input then it either displays a blue screen or snow. Screen brightness is indeed an issue so I guess I'll be looking for a brighter screen. Cheers

[@AustrianGeek]

+Peter Hewat Btw.: Feelworld has also the PVR / FPV models - 1000cd/m² instead of only 400cd/m² with the FW759. They also write that these models explicitely come with "snow screen" and no "blue screen". So check them out. Maybe you could even use their built in receivers (for a better picture). And they are also quite affordable btw.

[@AustrianGeek]

It´s going to blue screen btw. (if you switch to analog input). At least with the firmware / hardware revision I have here (which isn´t the newest one) - And with no adapter / signal connected. But a brighter screen is a better choice anyway (from scratch on) ^^.

[@PeterHewat]

+AustrianGeek Blue screen it is then. Just checked their website and the PVR1032 model is exactly the kind of screen I am looking for (1000cd/m², diversity receiver). I will go and see if I can find a review as detailed as yours on that one ;-) Thank you for your help and have a good day :-)

[@melvinch]

There are complaints that the battery will drain even which switched off. Did you encounter that problem too ?

[@AustrianGeek]

Yes. It will drain the battery. But it wasn´t a problem in my case, as I used a central battery most of the time (so no battery on the screen directly). PLUS: Normaly you charge the battery anyways before using it for a project. And if you transport it seperately, it´s also not drained by the screen. Just don´t oversee to remove it as soon as you store the screen til the next project ^^. LG

[@hotelphotography]

My monitor doesn't show all of its space, only the middle. Yours shows all of the screen's really estate. Is this a menu issue?

[@AustrianGeek]

Is it showing a black border around the image? Or is it a crop into the image? LG

[@hotelphotography]

@@AustrianGeek it's black around the image. When I playback, it shows the whole screen, just not while filming or live mode.

[@AustrianGeek]

@@hotelphotography I guess you have a Nikon DSLR right? Some of the older models output a black border around the image (also some Canons). There are ways to unlock the fullsize HDMI output while filming (for example for older Nikon models the hack option nikonhacker.com/wiki/Supported_Models). Btw: It should not be an issue with the monitor (but with the camera / camera settings). Search for full size HDMI output for your specific camera model. You can also plug in your camera into a TV as a test - You should get the same results / the same black borders ^^. LG

[@diffuzhun]

Nice review. I bought this model recently(version 3.4, I believe) and had an issue getting full image output. I use the analog input as my camera only has analog and SDI outs. When I send an image with "in Camera" safety marks (I set mine at 90%), the marks show on the 759 that some of the image is cut off at all the edges. In fact on the right side it cuts off the vertical edge of the safety marks. All the other edges show that the image is cutoff by about 5% to 8%. The 759's built in safety borderlines show up as centered on the monitor. This happens whether the monitor is set to auto, 16:9, etc. Have you had any issues with that? Any solutions? I've tried a number of setting combinations.

[@AustrianGeek]

+Okolehao Hmm. Try out following: 1.) Search for overscan / underscan (maybe it´s now available in the options of the newer firmware). With that you can control the amount of overscan / underscan of input signals. 2.) If this isn´t added / available (maybe it´s not coming at all as normaly you don´t need it): Try out the 4:3 mode (according the aspect ratios) - As analog is often a 4:3 output. or 3.) If that´s also not fully helping, try out to enable the pixel to pixel mode (in the features) And then use one of the Zoom modes (which are also present in the aspect ratio settings) to get a bigger image again. Though: Overall it´s not a good solution at all to use the analog output of your camera. (Btw.: Did you try different output settings on your camera?) Another (for sure WAY better solution): Use an SDI to HDMI converter. Then you get the full signal quylity (with full resolution) - And it´s always better to use a digital signal. ^^

[@xG4m3rPr0x]

Hi, been looking at this monitor but to have the battery pack at the back of my glidecam while having this monitor mounted to the front. I heard you say that the DC socket is 2.1 instead of 2.5? I am very confused in if this : www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361565203908 is a 2.5 or a 2.1 cable? Since I would have to buy an additional cable to get from one side of my glidecam to the other since the DC cable that comes with that link is too short. Any help would be fantastic! Thanks -Connor

[@AustrianGeek]

Hi there. Well - It&#180;s a 2.1mm socket. But it also accepts 2.5mm plugs. It has more "play". But it is still working. So even if you only find a 2.5mm cable for cheap, it should work too. At least it worked too with all of my 2.5mm cables I have lying around ... And the 2.5mm ports are standard - So the 2.5mm cable is also better for the future. As basically all other devices use 2.5mm plugs. ^^

[@xG4m3rPr0x]

ahhh, thats great then! So even if it is a 2.5mm DC cable then it shouldn't matter? Sorry I'm knew to the entire monitor/DC etc. business! The plan is to get this monitor and position it at the bottom of my glidecam at the front, then buy that ebay item I linked to put to hold the battery at the bottom of the glidecam at the back so that it roughly has the same weight to balance it. this monitor looks perfect for it! So would I just order a DC 2.5mm to 2.5mm cable that is long enough to get from one side of the glidecam to the other? Thanks so much for the quick response and help! We need waaay more people like you on youtube/online. -Connor

[@AustrianGeek]

xG4m3rPr0x Yes. Should work. As mentioned at least with my cables it worked (tried it with two different ones). It had also no connection problems. Was just more loose than with the 2.1mm one. But please don´t nail me down on that - Just because it worked with my cables, that doesn´t mean, that it will work with any 2.5mm cable out there. ^^ But you can go for the 2.5mm anyway. Even if it´s not fitting (and the chance is high that it fits), you can also keep the 2.5mm version for the future. Because (as mentioned already): Basically all other field monitors and also most other accessories work with 2.5mm cables (as it´s kind of the "standard DC plug"). About mounting the screen: Should work yes. You maybe need a pair of 1/4" screws to mount them (which are long enough). But then it should be possible. You can even use the small ballhead which is included to mount and tilt the screen to the right position. Just remove the hotshoe adapter at the bottom of the ballhead. Btw.: I also use such battery plates (Though - The older / standard model without the 12V converter internally). They work nicely. Just keep an eye on the mounting position. The 1/4" thread is a little bit offset with that plates (check out the 2nd picture). So to get a perfect balance, you maybe need to mount it a little bit angled (so the center of gravity - sideways - is in line with the rest including the mounted battery). Otherwise you have too much weight on one side (and it´s not possible to balance that out with a steadycam - At least not at the bottom). Thx for the kind words btw. Have fun shooting - And have a nice day. ^^ LG

[@jeffreykallevik1587]

Hello I am using the Sony a7sII with this monitor. I can connect it and all but it doesn't seem to fit the screen no matter what. I tried changing the aspect ratio and I still get the bars on the side of the monitor. Not sure why. I've tried adjusting it both in the camera and the monitor. Any reason why it is doing this?

[@AustrianGeek]

Hmm. The FW759 scaler doesn´t support 4K (only 1080P). So (if you didn´t try this alreday): Fix the HDMI output on the camera to 1080P. Sometimes the AUTO settings are not recognising the monitor right. On the screen you can check out the overscan / underscan. But this is normaly only a small adjustment (so if there´s a big black bar around, then it´s for sure not that option). Btw.: Also test it out on a computer / other camera (and also with another cable). It could be also a defect of the scaler - OR a defect of the included HDMI cable. Most freely included ones are of a really bad quality (!)

[@jeffreykallevik1587]

Thanks. You were very close and after telling me about the HDMI setting it was actually the info display that needed to be turned off. Your help was much appreciated.

[@AustrianGeek]

Good to hear you fixed it - Have fun shooting ^^.

[@viaggi.andataritorno]

Is there a battery charge indicator? How can I know if I have to recharge the battery?

[@AustrianGeek]

There´s no battery indicator with this model (maybe the new FW760 got one - But this I cannot tell you as I don´t have or had the FW760 til now). Overall it´s the best idea to test out the runtime with the batteries you plan to use with it - BEFORE shooting the first time (NP-F550, 730 or the biggest 970 ones). Then you know (+/-) the runtime - Or you can also use an external battery plate with voltage indicator - Then you also know when you need to change the battery. The point is: It also depends on the batteries you use (and the quality of them). ^^

[@viaggi.andataritorno]

Thanks

[@zangief5495]

Does this monitor comes with the battery from the factory?

[@AustrianGeek]

No. There are no batteries and no charger included. BUT: You can get such kits (two batteries + charger) for about 40 to 60 bucks over Amazon for example. And then you have at least longer (and local) warranty on them. The included batteries, which are coming with such monitor kits, are often not of a high / good quality anyways (and get defect quite soon). So it´s all in all the better way to save money on the monitor kit (and to buy the batteries seperately). ^^

[@KS622]

Be aware, you cannot power your camera with the monitor. It's a DC input; not an output. This thing takes the massive batteries, but unfortunately you have to use your other batteries in the camera. (I have a panasonic gh5, with the dummy battery but I cant power up my gh5) If you have any idea how I can power my camera with this thing, it would be greatly appreciated. Quality is good enough, slight delay but nothing to worry about.

[@AustrianGeek]

I am not sure if its possible with that screen (as you mentioned it seems to be only an DC input). I sadly do not have the screen anymore - So I cannot test it on my side. You can still go for a battery, which offers a D-TAP or DC output. That way you can connect to the battery directly (and then power both - Screen and camera at the same time). Just keep in mind: You can get some ground loop issues / audio humming using such solutions (humming in the audio). So you have to test it with the final setup in detail (before using it in field / for a project). And order the stuff where you can give it back if it causes any issues. ^^ LG

[@mixmaxo86]

I was wondering if you could help me. I am looking for a cheap 7" monitor with hdmi in and out and 2.35:1 guidelines. Can you recommend anything? Thanks.

[@AustrianGeek]

+Bloody Revenge Film &amp; TV Production Hmm. The problem is, that super cheap screens are normaly not coming with guidelines. Or have other problems according colour-accuracy, sharpness, image quality overall and so on. The FW759 is also not perfect - But delivers an exceptional good performance for the price. The problem is, that at least with the firmware I had on my screen there were no guides available. You have now two options: You invest signifficanty more (in a better screen) - OR you use DIY to get the guidelines with a cheaper one. You could use for example two strings and mount them with sticky tape to the frame of the monitor. To align them right, feed an image with a 2.35:1 mask to the screen and align the strings accordingly - That´s it. You could also use a removable pen (which you only need to wipe off) - Tested that already once. It´s working nice but you need to redo the markings you want to have more often (as the removable markings are vanishing accidently quite often while transporting the screen ^^.) The other option is a more expensive screen: Well - There are the Aputure screens which offer nice guides. BUT they are colours wise not a good choice (and I don´t know if the new "FineHD" screens are any better - The older ones were a mess at least - Also according a few other problems). If you want to be sure to get a VERY GOOD image with nice features better check out the MustHD M701H - Or even better the IKAN DH7. But those are signifficantly more expensive than the FW759 or FW759P for example. If a 5" screen (with a nice 1080P panel) is also enough, you could go for the IKAN DH5 (RALLY nice feature set - Check out the manual for all the features - IKAN isn´t listing everything on their website - Don´t know why ...). Btw.: Also an alternative / middle way: The IKAN DH7 you can also get as a relabeled model under the NEWAY brand - It´s called CT710HO - And you can get it over the Personal-View forum deals for about 350$ (which is EXTREMELY cheap for that feature set). But I don´t know how good and long the after sales support (and warranty) is - IKAN is a bigger brand with local support on the other hand (IF you´re living in the US). I also don´t know if you will ever get all the firmware updates (which IKAN is maybe rolling out for their branded model). But it´s the best bang for the buck deal actually (on the whole market). I hope I didn´t make things worse (according deciding). Have a nice day. ^^

[@mixmaxo86]

Thank you for all that. I just need something cheap for a job but need a monitor for myself and my AC, so hdmi in and out is needed. I think I'll just get two DC 70's and then continue to save for a Ninja Assassin.

[@AustrianGeek]

+Bloody Revenge Film &amp; TV Production Hmm. Alternatively you could go for two FW759 + an HDMI splitter (at least the image is way better on those compared to the DC70 and the DC70 is also not coming with guidelines btw.) - OR if you really need the guides go for one IKAN DH5 (which is nice and small - And which you could keep for gimbal use for example beside a possible Assassin in the future) + a FW759 as a 2nd screen for the AC. That way you have the HDMI in/out on the DH5 for loop trhough, the guides for you as the operator to keep everything in frame and the way better image compared to the Viltrox DC70 on the FW759 for your AC. Sure - You need to invest a few bucks more - But you can also sell those screens WAY easier if you need to. PLUS (as mentioned already) you can keep the DH5 for the future for example. The Assassin is nice - But also WAY too bulky sometimes - And it&#180;s consuming quite alot of power. The DH5 on the other hand you can always carry with you (as it´s that small and lightweight). Especially handy if you don´t want to use the Assassin. And since the Assassin is still just planned, it makes sense (at least til then).

[@AustrianGeek]

+Bloody Revenge Film &amp; TV Production Damn - I forgot: The FW759 and FW759P are also offering guide frames. So you can also go with two FW759 or FW759P with an HDMI splitter (or you can use the DH5 with the higher resolutoin for the AC and the FW759 / FW759P for yourself). Sorry that I missed that ^^.

[@dAkiD2eLiTe]

How can I get the image to fit the screen? I would like to shoot in 2.35:1 but I can't get the camera image to fit the entire screen so I can use the safety frames

[@AustrianGeek]

With which camera? Are you sure, that the camera is able to output full sized 1080i or 1080P images? (Without any black bars -> Some Canon bodies are for example outputting a black bar around the live view image over the HDMI ...)

[@jeffreykallevik1587]

Getting the same issue with the Sony A7sII. it can do 4k so it shouldn't be a problem. Can't figure out how to fit the screen.

[@modtherockstar]

Is it a way I can watch videos I already record on the monitor

[@AustrianGeek]

Sure. If the device you´ve connected it to supports the HDMI output of the recorded videos (a camcorder / DSLR / system camera for example). If you want to be sure, that it will work over HDMI, then you can test it with a TV set (just connect the device over HDMI - If playback is possible there, it will be also possible over an external field monitor ^^).

[@puddytat62]

So have you tested the FW 760 yet ?

[@AustrianGeek]

Not yet. Maybe I´ll do so in the future (if most other projects are finished. And as soon as I have time to test the VS-2 FineHD.) ^^ But overall it seems to be basically the same (base hardware wise - Compared to the FW759). Just the panel has a higher resolution and there´s just one version. (Not a standard one an one with advanced features like it was the case with the FW759 and FW759P models.)

[@kobudoka1165]

Has it classic components input: video (yellow) audio R (red) audio L (white)?

[@AustrianGeek]

+Kobudoka 11 It has a combo (3.5mm) input port at the side (for which you can get a breakout cable with all the ports you mentioned). BUT: This is a super cheap screen which is optimized for digital signals (with higher resolutions). If it´s possible in ANY KIND, then try to use your digital outputs (HDMI or SDI with an SDI to HDMI converter - They are also not THAT expensive anymore). You will get a WAY better and clearer image (with analog signals you don´t even get a nice full screen if you´re unlucky with the scaler options. And quality wise an analog signal - Especially over the standard yellow VIDEO port - Is more or less only usable for framing. By far not to judge the sharpness / focus point, the colours or moiré / aliasing behaviour for example. You could just use it for framing ...)

[@yourchildhoodfriend8]

Hey I am having difficulty understanding. Would you please be able to help? How can Blue or Green help detect noise in the image? I have looked at check field blue and I don't see any way to detect the noise. Please do let me know. Thanks

[@AustrianGeek]

Under normal conditions (at least with the standard CMOS sensors) it is the case, that blue channel is for example the "weakest" overall - So under normal conditions / with normal CMOS sensors it´s the best way to check the noise over that channel. Why? Because the bayer array uses blue + red + two green sub-pixels. So blue and red need more gain to get to the same levels as green. (Btw.: Green is doubled, as most of the brightness and contrast response is coming from the green channel - So there´s more sensitivity necessary). But there is also another point why blue is the "worst" channel: Red is additionally also more sensitive than blue (at least on normal CMOS sensors). So even though the sensor has the same count of blue and red pixels, you need to bump up the blue gain higher than the red one. So overall the blue channel needs the most gain / amplification. Therefore also the ground noise is amplified the most in the blue channel. Hope that makes it clearer. ^^ So most important is the blue channel / blue gun mode. Altough: I also don´t use it THAT much. Most of the time only for calibration purposes. (Because in general you know how high you can go with your ISO anyways ^^.)

[@johngorney5305]

I have a Nikon D7200- when i record at 1080 p 60 fps settings in the camera the feed on the monitor will be real choppy until i change the monitor settings where it states camera mode in settings- it then only gives me auto 480 p or 1080 i to choose from- when i choose 480 p the choppiness goes away and the record file is still what i want in camera at 1080p 60 fps- is there anyway to get the feed on the monitor up from 480p to 1080 p? thanks

[@AustrianGeek]

Hmm. Did you try a different cable? Maybe its slightly faulty (which gives you a non constant transfer speed - Therefor choppy images at higher resolutions). AND: Try out your D7200 at another screen / TV - If its behaving the same. If its the same there, its a problem of the camera or the cable. Also try out other setting in the D7200 (maybe there is an 720P or 1080i option which gives you a non choppy output - On "AUTO" mode sometimes wrong formates get selected.) Oh. And disable HDMI control in the menu (if available). Hope that helps to figure out your problem. Have a nice day ^^. LG

[@serenagabrielle7701]

hi i’m having so much trouble connect my g7 lumix i got 3 micro to regular size hdmi. i even tried an adapter and it still doesn’t show up or connect please help !

[@AustrianGeek]

Hi there. The problem with the Panasonic G7 is, that its not possible to output video while recording (its showing then "recording running" or so with white letters on a black background). You should get the live video feed though, as long as you´re not recording (so you can normaly use it as a live feed camera for streaming and you can also use it as a webcam with a small USB HDMI frame-grabber that way - You just need to disable the "HDMI Info Display (Rec)" in the Wrench Symbol menu -> TV Connections. There you should also be able to set the HDMI to 1080P - from the standard "Auto"). To sum it up: Live feed over the HDMI / on an external screen is possible, playback is possible - But as soon as you start recording the screen will go blank. Hope that helps to clear up things ^^. LG

[@jkapp374]

At this point (2023) at some internet sites you can now buy this monitor (new) for as low as $89.00 US.. so it is definitely a very good deal

[@AustrianGeek]

Yes. Its still a good deal. To all which are interested - Just keep in mind the non Full-HD resolution (the screen only offers 720P native resolution) and its quite "reflective". So more of a studio / indoors screen. Its sometimes also available as a great bargain on the used market too (also the direct / outside nearly identical FW760 and FW74K successors). LG

[@SwedenMadein]

Thanks for the review. Have just bought this monitor and wonder if I've been unlucky in receiving a bad copy. When changing Camera Mode I loose signal and it would only give me the 480p option. Also the Focus Assist seems to be all over the place. Outlining objects in red which clearly are not in focus. Anyone else with the same problems?

[@AustrianGeek]

Which camera do you use? The problem is: Many older Canon cameras are dropping the resolution to 480P only as soon as you hit the record button. That´s an quite annoying problem (which you can only overcome with a newer body). It´s the same with all external screens - Not only with the FW759 / FW759P. The peaking at 480P is quite useless - That´s true. But it´s the same again: It´s the limiting resolution. Peaking is highlighting the "hard" edges of the image. If you only have 480P as source, there are not enough details to show you the right edges in focus. Because of that I am overall no friend of peaking. At least external one (on external montiors). Body internally it´s better implemented (because they use the high resolution sensor data - Not the compressed HDMI). Btw.: If you want to keep your body, check out the magic-lantern hack. At least there you can also enable peaking (body internally). That way you get at least one option to pull the focus better. Hope that helps ^^.

[@SwedenMadein]

Thank you so much for getting back to me. Currently I'm using a GH2 and Nikon D7000 (can't get a full screen image on this one). When turning the monitor on with the GH2 it flashes HDMI 1080i on the screen. Can't change except to 480p in Camera Mode. Have only tried Peaking in standby mode which I thought would be in the 1080i? I also saw you did a thorough review of the LiIlliput 5D-II O/P. With my rather old cameras would I be better off going for the Lilliput rather than the Feelworld. The reseller have offered to have the Feelworld returned considering the issues. Maybe my cameras aren't compatible. I hope to soon upgrade to the GH4 but will need a monitor for the current set up in the meantime. Really appreciate your advice. Kind regards. Maria

[@AustrianGeek]

Ah. Ok. So no Canon ^^. Don´t oversee: The D7000 isn´t outputting a full sized image from scratch on - You always get a cropped image (with black borders). You could try the nikon hack (they implemented a native 720P mode without cropping): nikonhacker.com/wiki/Supported_Models The GH2 should work on the other hand (with full 1080i image). Or do you have problems there too? Shouldn´t be the case (as the FW759 is working nicely with interlaced signals). About the Lilliput: It´s a full class below the FW759 (resolution wise, features wise AND especially colours wise). There are other options out there (monitors wise) - But it´s not solving the D7000 problem (you need to try out the hack if you want full sized HDMI output). If the GH2 is also not working, then you could get a 5D-II/O/P in the meantime - Yes. At least it´s working: But as mentioned the GH2 should work. Have a nice day. LG

[@jerianlewis1708]

@@SwedenMadein did the Nikon hack work ... interested in getting this monitor for my D7200

[@MrSubba777]

hi. can I use this monitor in canon 70d..?

[@AustrianGeek]

Should work - BUT it´s no 100% clean HDMI (so you still get overlays and a small black border as far as I know). You can easily test it out btw. before ordering an external screen - You just need a normal HDMI capable TV. Connect the camera and check the different viewing modes in live view through pushing the info button.

[@CambodianAmerican]

how did you get that 16×9 aspect ratio screen?

[@AustrianGeek]

Which camera do you use? Did you check the HDMI output settings of your camera? (Choose a fixed setting - 1080P / 1080i or 720P for example - AUTO settings are sometimes not working right.) If it´s just the screen settings: Go to submenu two (out of four) -> The 2nd entry should be aspect ratio. HTH (hope that helps) ^^

[@cball1951]

will it be compatible with a canon xl 1 s? my view finder needs repair. quoted $400. will this replace it and save me the money quoted?

[@AustrianGeek]

Puuh. An XL1s - Long time went by since I saw the last one in real life ^^. Hmm. I think it makes no sense to go for the FW759 (as I cannot tell you how good the analog input is). There´s also no converter included (you need to order it seperately) -> Because of that fact I never testet that input. Maybe it´s a better idea (overall) to search for a used cheap screen with direct component or S-Video inputs. Then you also don´t need a converter cable (the FW759 / FW760 only uses a very small 3.5mm adapter -> On the RIGHT side of the screen - Also a super stable and handy solution overall). Beside that, the older ones maybe produce better analog images (compared to the new models) -> The new ones are normaly optimised for digital inputs. Maybe you´re lucky and you can find something for a few bucks (on Ebay for example) ^^. Especially the older screen models (without any digital interfaces) are normaly quite cheap. Btw.: Maybe also check out online communities according the viewfinder of your XL1s. Maybe someone can repair it for you (at a cheaper / lower price point). ^^

[@cisco150]

Feelworld FW-74K-P is there a firmware update for this monitor i use my camera and set 3840*2160 and screen starts flashing and color changes from oem to like from say somthing is yellow and ill look purple. its not my camera as i check it with other 4k tvs

[@AustrianGeek]

+cisco150 Hmm. I am not Feelworld btw. (just tested the screen) - So I cannot give you any information about support / firmware versions. But I can tell you in general, that the FW-74K-P (which seems to be the FW759P) isn´t compatible to 4K signals. Just a few screens are. (For example the new IKAN DH7, or the Blackmagicdesign Video Assist screen + recorder ...)

[@cisco150]

+AustrianGeek ok thanks I did a typo I have the fw74k without the p. so you think the fw759 and the fw74k are the same unit.

[@cisco150]

+AustrianGeek Sorry I didn't entende to see you as you where feelworld, was asking a question. should have word it out better.

[@AustrianGeek]

Yes. The FW74K should be the FW759. Btw.: You can still ask Feelworld according firmware updates (though there´s for sure no 4K support coming through this - As it´s a hardware features). Have fun shooting ^^.

[@gamingtiwi5200]

Gibt es eine Möglichkeit, dass der Monitor direkt eine Audiokurve der Kamera darstellt?

[@AustrianGeek]

+GamingTiwi Nein. Leider nicht. Wenn´s wirklich nötig / gewünscht ist, vielleicht mal den IKAN DH5 ansehen - Ist ein kleineres 5" Modell. Kommt aber dafür mit den gewünschten Audio-Level Metern, nativer 1080P Ausgabe (das Panel schafft die vollen 1920x1080 Pixel!) UND mit zig anderen Features - die auch garantiert funktionieren. Updatebar ist er auch bei Bedarf (per USB Stick). Gab es vor kurzem z.B. bei Amazon um 350 oder 360€ (der Preis schwankt von Zeit zu Zeit). Es gibt aber auch noch den IKAN DH7 (das 7" Modell). Das ist sogar noch 4K fähig (akzeptiert 4K Signal am HDMI Eingang). Aber ist noch etwas teurer (und natürlich größer). Optional bekommt man das DH7 Modell aber auch von NEWAY (über die Personal-view Forendeals z.B. um gerade mal 300 bis 350€). Ist also sicherlich auch ne Option. Alles andere ist entweder schon zu alt (geringere Auflösung) oder zu groß und schwer (Lilliput 663/O/P2 oder 663/P2 z.B.). Den Aputure VS-2 FineHD gäbe es noch - Der hat auch level-meter (und ein 1080P LCD Panel - Wie die IKAN). ABER: Die Aputure hatten immer Probleme mit der Kalibrierung (die Farben waren nicht die "akkuratesten"). Von daher mit Vorsicht zu genießen (bzw. kostet auch um die 250 bis 300€ das VS-2 FineHD Modell). Von daher könnte man um ein paar Euros mehr dann schon fast den DH5 nehmen (wenn der Preis wieder mal kurzzeitig sinkt). Sorry für den langen Text - Aber vielleicht hilft´s ja was ^^.

[@gamingtiwi5200]

+AustrianGeek Vielen Dank, aber ich bevorzuge dann doch den 7 Zoll Feelworld. W&#228;hre es g&#252;nstiger das Audiosignal &#252;ber einen externen Recorder aufzunehmen und sich dort z.B. den Pegel anzuschauen?

[@AustrianGeek]

+GamingTiwi Naja. Kommt darauf an. Wenn die Kamera (oder der Camcorder) schon eine Level-Anzeige bieten, ist es fraglich ob man nur bezüglich der Level-Anzeige einen externen Rekorder verwenden möchte. Von der Tonqualität her bringt es aber natürlich immer etwas (solange der Rekorder nicht der günstigste ist). Ich verwende auch teils externe Recorder und schleife dann den Ton weiter zur Kamera. Funktioniert ganz gut - Und man kann dann immer noch auswählen ob man synchronisiert (für den besseren Ton) - Oder ob der zur Kamera weitergeleitete Ton (welcher ja schon synchron mit dem Video aufgezeichnet wird) auch ausreicht. Mehr Aufwand ist es aber allemal -> Nicht übersehen: Man muss wieder alles extra verkabeln - wo passend montieren - Separate Akkus aufladen - Nachträglich synchronisieren (für die beste Tonqualität) usw. Limiter bieten externe Rekorder natürlich auch. Aber manche Cams liefern auch schon gute kamerainterne Limiter (Panasonic GH4 ist z.B. sehr gutmütig diesbezüglich).

[@gamingtiwi5200]

+AustrianGeek Vielen Dank für die Hilfe!

[@AustrianGeek]

Gern - Schönen Abend noch. ^^

[@tomgosy]

My Neewer 7inch field monitor seems identical to this!?

[@AustrianGeek]

Yep. They just rebrand the Feelworld models. I also have the 4K model of the FW759 lying here (called the Feelworld FW74K). The Neewer relabeled one is named NW74K. LG

[@KingJaeTV]

Does it come with a battery?

[@AustrianGeek]

+King Jae No. But normaly you only get the smallest ones anyway. (So it&#180;s not THAT much helping if there would be one included.) Just search for NP-F730/750/770 kits (two batteries with a charger included). These ones are the "middle size" and not too heavy and big for the screen. You could also go for the NP-F970 ones (the biggest ones). But I personaly don&#180;t like such bulky batteries on external screens ^^.

[@KingJaeTV]

+AustrianGeek should i just get the big one then?

[@KingJaeTV]

+AustrianGeek should i just get the big one then?

[@KingJaeTV]

+AustrianGeek Thanks. How much am I looking to spend on the bigger battery?

[@AustrianGeek]

If you just want to buy ONE battery, then it´s better to go for the NP-F970 (and a charger) - Yes. Well - A good one is priced around 20 bucks for the battery alone. Or around 30 with a charger included. I recommend the PATONA NP-F970 - They are available over Amazon and the quality is ok (I am using the Premium AND the Standard NP-F970).

[@AdliSyamil]

Hi, i would like to know whether there is any option to mute the sound from the monitor? This happen when I connect via HDMI to my Lumix G85 and the annoyed humming sound came out. This also happen when i connect to Sony A7Sii. Appreciate your help, thank you.

[@AustrianGeek]

Yes - There is one: You just need to use the left / right arrows to control the volume (when you´re not in the menu). Just put it to zero. OR: You can also use a 3.5mm plug or headphones to disable the internal speaker - Then you also don´t get those weird "feedback noises". Have fun shooting (!)

[@mattholton2186]

Can you monitor live audio while recording through the headphone jack? So far I've only been able to hear audio in playback and not live audio while recording. Is there a way to fix that, like with magic lantern or firmware update? I'm using a Canon 70D

[@AustrianGeek]

Yes. But test out first, if you camera / camcorder outputs the audio live over HDMI. Just use a TV or your computer screen (if its coming with loud speakers). Not all cameras output live audio while recording. Btw.: You can use the arrows (left right) to control the volume - Its not that clear / instant visible how to control the volume through the manual ^^. Also important: Keep in mind, that you get more delay over HDMI. Because the camera needs to convert everything and also the screen adds a little bit of delay. That solution / audio monitoring option is therefor only really usable for 3rd party speakers. If you speak by yourself, its WAY too distracting to hear yourself delayed all the time ^^. Hope that helps. Have fun shooting (!) LG

[@AustrianGeek]

Oh. Oversaw your other questions: Hmm. Don´t know if its possible with Magic lantern to re-route the audio. Just put it on your card and look through the menus (maybe you can find something). Don´t have a 70D here to play around by myself sorry ^^. But there is also the option to go over the AV output of the 70D. There you get live Audio feed (and there are even adapter cables to get direct audio monitoring). You still need a small pre-amp for your headphones (with audio levels control would be perfect) - But it should work. That way you also don´t have any delay at all (or just a very short delay). Sescom made such cables as far as I remember. But please check if they also work with the 70D before ordering one (for the 60D for example following worked - The Sescom "DSLR-550D-HOCF" - WITH Magic lantern installed). LG

[@matiberna]

I recently bought US Stock Feelworld FW759 7 "HD When I connect it with my camera, the battery starts to make a strange sound. A may be due that? Await response. Thank you

[@AustrianGeek]

Hi there. I am btw. not the supplier / dealer / manufacturer - So it´s maybe a good idea to contact the seller too. But overall: Is it the camera-battery or the battery you use on the monitor to power it? If it´s possible, then try to change the batteries (maybe you got one with a low quality control circuit). Btw.: Are you sure that it´s coming from the battery? Also try to plug in 3.5mm headphones on the screen (or dial down the volume of the FW759). Because: It´s maybe coming from the speaker at the back of the FW759 (theres the risk of a "feedback-loop" -> The camera is recording the audio -> Monitor is getting it over the HDMI and outputs it live. The camera records that again and so it´s getting louder and louder - If that´s your problem -> Yes. It´s a really weird noise ^^.)

[@matiberna]

It was a theme sound loop! Thanks a lot friend! you solved the problem I had! i'm happy! jejeje

[@AustrianGeek]

Good to hear that it works now - Have fun shooting (!) ^^

[@boodababy1ify]

Help Please i just purchased at the same monitor and i tried using it for my canon t6i and it will not show anything?? have Any Ideas??

[@AustrianGeek]

Hello there. Did you enable the live view on your camera (or the play mode -> To get a picture over the HDMI)? If you didn´t try it out -> Connect your camera to a TV set (with HDMI in). If you get a picture there but not with the FW759 maybe try an HDMI feed from your computer / notebook. (The FW759 should be fully recognized over any HDMI port.) Maybe also try a different HDMI cable (the included ones are often of a not THAT high / desireable quality ^^).

[@boodababy1ify]

what do you mean about play mode??

[@AustrianGeek]

SniperFilms Playback mode (where you can check your stills and videos) ^^. As then also the HDMI is active (like while live view is active).

[@unitedliars]

Hello! I recently purchased a Blackmagic 5" Video Assist to use on my 5D Mark II but it does not seem compatible. Whenever I press record the monitor goes black. Will this monitor let me view the image as I record on a 5D Mark II?

[@AustrianGeek]

Well - Originally the 5D II drops to 480P as soon as you press the REC button on your camera. And that mode is not supported by the Video Assist (It also wouldn´t make sense to record such a low quality signal). It´s supported by the Feelworld FW759 / FW760 / F7 models though - Which are all basically the same (as they offer the "camera mode" which is then zooming the image bigger and is not giving you a blackout in the image output). A small hint: There is an option btw. to get an higher resolution output over the HDMI with your 5D Mk.II -> If you use Magic Lantern. But as far as I remember right, it´s not possible to output the native 1080P signal over the HDMI (to record it with a better quality with an external recorder) - The max. resolution is too low / too limited to reach 1920x1080 progressively over the HDMI. You need the 5D III to get native 1:1 progressive (full resolution) 1080P output. But if you use the 5D III, you can then also use the internal RAW recording. So no need to use an external recorder then ^^. So if you just need a screen, go for the FW759. But also don´t expect wonders without Magic Lantern. 480P (which is the original output without the Magic Lantern hack / mod) is not really helping to pull the focus. You need the higher resolution which is possible with Magic Lantern. Otherwise the screen only helps to frame the screne. Hope that helps ^^.

[@nagual79]

Hi, is it the best (cheap) option for a Canon 5D Mark 3 ?

[@AustrianGeek]

More or less - YES. Altough there are also other models you can check out (from Feelworld). The FW760 for example (which is coming with a 1920x1080 resolution panel -> Which is more future proof). Or you can also go for the brand new Feelworld F7 which is priced around the FW760 (just a few bucks more). But it´s a new case design. And it´s also coming with even more features (software wise) whan the FW760 - So check it out (!) ^^

[@GalstyanHayk]

Do we get a few seconds delay when switching from recording mode to play? I mean is there ay hdmi resolution problems with 5D mark III?

[@DavidKfilmmaker]

I have the P version and a G7. The screen goes blue when I record. Any thoughts how to fix it??

[@AustrianGeek]

I am sorry to say that - But the G7 doesn´t output HDMI while recording. Only the GH4 and the new G85 for example are outputting a signal. So it´s not a problem with the monitor - It´s a limitation of your body. Two options: Change to the G85 (or a used GH4) or sell the screen again / return it to the dealer. I would consider to upgrade to the G85 (it´s a great camera - also upgraded from a G7 / changed from a GH4). LG

[@geckocheese]

is there any way to not view the image in 480p when recording with a canon t3i

[@AustrianGeek]

Hmm. You can try out the "camera mode" -> Menu -> 2nd page inbetween OSD V and Zoom ALL. This mode is normaly for the 5D models (the older ones). But it should also lock the 480P mode for your T3i ^^. It´s visible in the video at 20:42. Have fun shooting (!) ^^

[@tvurk]

Does it charge the battery on the monitor when a 12V adapter is connected??

[@AustrianGeek]

Nope. It´s not - But thats not possible with any monitor I know of to be honest ^^. You need batteries anyways - So it´s the best solution to go for a battery kit (2 batteries + charger for example).

[@reacherstudio]

Is this going to work on a Canon 5D MKII? Let me know ill buy it immediately if it does.

[@AustrianGeek]

+Brian Martin It has the 480P / "camera" mode for the older Canon bodies - Yes. But according to another user it adds aliasing to the image (so it´s not really helping that much on the older Canon bodies). Maybe it´s better to use / get another model. Though keep in mind: It´s a general problem -> The low image clearness / sharpness. The 480P resolution is the limiting factor from scratch on.

[@boomerbloomer]

thank you

[@ConcepTheMc]

Every Time I push record I loose single and it goes back to my camera monitor. What I can do ?

[@AustrianGeek]

+Manny Castro You´re using a camera, which isn´t offering live HDMI output (while recording internally) - It´s only outputting one while in standby (and playback). Which camera model are you using? For example most of the Panasonic bodies are not outputting a signal while recording. (Panasonic GX7, G6, G7 and also many of the other models -> Only the GH2, GH3 and GH4 are outputting a signal.)

[@SoulVisionsFilms]

+AustrianGeek I'm using a Nikon d5100

[@SoulVisionsFilms]

+AustrianGeek is there any way I can fix ? Because I got my monitor in today and Lina struggling with it to set up. Everything works just not live preview as I'm filming

[@AustrianGeek]

Ah. Ok. Then you should check out the Nikon Hack - Then you should get the option to output native (uncropped) 720P or even 1080i (the Feelworld FW759 / FW759 can display both without any issues). You need to modify the firmware (as far as I remember only the D5200 and upwards offers live view HDMI out on the HDMI -> Without modifying the firmware.)

[@SoulVisionsFilms]

+AustrianGeek ok thank you very much, Ima just KZbin it then. Appreciate you replying back. If I have any other questions I'll come to you

[@6041321as]

I cant get my live signal on Nikon P900. Please help me!!!

[@AustrianGeek]

+6041321as I am sorry to say that - But it seems like the P900 is not outputting any live view HDMI feed while recording (checked the manual and the net). Also as an information to everyone out there -> You need to check the live view HDMI capability with a TV or so BEFORE buying a field monitor. Only a few cameras are outputting an HDMI signal while recording (especially superzooms and compacts are mostly not outputting one - With exception of some Sony models). Btw.: It´s the camera body which is not outputting a signal - So also other screens will not work ...

[@mr_narto]

Hi! I recently bought this and I can't change the aspect ratio on mine, using and Nikon D800, should I update the firmware? Thanks!

[@AustrianGeek]

You can ask the Feelworld support for the newest firmware (though I don´t know how reactive they are - And if they send it to you directly without sending in the unit for the upgrade). Just try to ask them. But: It could be also your D800 (the settings). Check out for example this video (there you see how to get the full size 1080i output without overlays): kzbin.info/www/bejne/bpjQqIV4f7h4iK8

[@NielsKnol]

Hey man. I bought this monitor yesterday and pullugd it in my Nikon D5100, but when i start filming, the monitor turns black and the live view on the camera goes back on... How do i change this?

[@AustrianGeek]

As far as I remember you need the Nikon Hack to unlock all time live-view out over HDMI. But you can also try to play around with the HDMI out settings in the menu (and you can also try to press the info button a few times beside the viewfinder - Maybe it outputs HDMI again in one of the display-modes). But also overall check out the Nikon Hack for the Nikon 5100 - It gives you also better video through higher bitrates, it removes the time limit and gives you kind of clean HDMI output (with no overlays etc.). Main page: nikonhacker.com/wiki/Main_Page Patch page: nikonhacker.com/wiki/Nikon_Patch List of supported models: nikonhacker.com/wiki/Supported_Models

[@AustrianGeek]

Btw.: Set the HDMI out on the D5100 to 1080i, device control to "off" and maybe try it on a TV too (that way you know if its a problem of the monitor or the camera ^^).

[@NielsKnol]

I did everything you sad, but it still doesnt work...

[@AustrianGeek]

Ok. Then you need to hack it. Just follow the tutorial(s) online and follow the links in my other / older answer. It´s quite easy to do / not THAT compley at least (and as mentioned its not only giving you active LiveView out, it´s also unlocking higher bitrates, giving you unlimited recording time in video mode and "cleans up" the HDMI out if wanted to get no overlays. Also unlocks a few stills image features (according compression options) and removes the need to use original nikon batteries. ^^

[@NielsKnol]

I hacked it already man... I even bought a USB to SD hub for the files... :(

[@ToneyFranco]

how does the software update work/

[@AustrianGeek]

+Toney Franco Sorry - You need to ask for that Feelworld directly (for model specific instructions). I am not sure at all if it´s possible to get the most actual firmware for a self upgrade anyway - Normaly you need to ship the device back for an update (that´s the case with Lilliput for example). Though: Normal procedure (with other screens) is to connect an USB adapter (Mini USB plug to a USB Type A jack) and then use an USB flash drive with the firmware on it. Then you should be able to start the update in the menu (and the screen should restart automatically). But that´s only the general procedure - Please contact Feelworld to get the actual firmware + the specific instructions. P.s.: Please leave a message here (if you get the firmware update with the instructions), as it´s for sure also important for other users ...

[@fiszi18048]

Anyone can help? I am trying to link NW759 to Nikon D750 and cannot get promised resolution 1200x800. Tried various settings and only in menu mode i am getting 720p or 1080i. When switching to live view, monitor automatically switch back to 480p 60hz. Any solution, please? In camera, I tried also all options.

[@AustrianGeek]

Hmm. Did you try to press the info button a few times? Maybe it outputs 480P to show you all the menu / display information. As far as I remember you need to toggle through the viewing modes with the info button to get the full-screen (clean) image ^^.

[@rumorscameras]

just to know,,,,is it still working 2023

[@AustrianGeek]

Sry. Not owing one anymore. But as long as you´re using it indoors and not on the go / outdoors all the time, it should hold up quite a while. Btw.: The model and my video are both quite old now (there are many better models on the market nowadays ^^). Have a nice day. LG

[@jaromirvyucil4252]

It looks grate! But I wait to smaller (+-5.6'') version of this monitor. ( H056 (V2) is worse and more expensive. )

[@AustrianGeek]

+Jaromír Vyučil Well - i don´t think that there´s such a screen coming (at such a low price at least). The 7" panels are WAY easier to get and way more widespread. So it´s easier to build such a screen (at a low price point). Keep in mind - The FW759 / FW759P is already quite lightweight and the frame already is very small & thin. So there´s a high chance that a 5.6" model is as big and heavy anyway (because of a bigger frame) ^^. Btw.: If you want to spend more, then Feelworld is also offering now a 5.5" Full-HD display model (called "G55"): goo.gl/sjQ8k8 Coming with WAY more features (like waveform, vectorscope, RGB histogram, audio level meters, false colours, zebras and so on). But if you just want the scopes then a used Atomos Ninja Blade recorder is maybe an even better choice. You can get it for about 350 to 400 bucks used (at least here in Europe) - And it´s a 5" 1280x800 IPS Panel screen + 10Bit 4:2:2 Full-HD recorder. Nice unit (i am using it by myself btw.) - AND it´s coming with great scopes and image quality (plus very nice control options over the touchscreen). It´s also usable as an monitor only btw. - The recording feature is just "the icing on the cake" ^^. (I am using for example an old 256GB SSD and a 500GB HDD I had lying around for recording - Both are working 100% flawlessly up to the highest bitrates.) Just an option you should consider. ^^

[@abozaid6581]

plz answer Can i use it as a normal tv screen to play Xbox 1 and PS4?

[@AustrianGeek]

Should work fine yes. Altough it´s not very big - But for sure an option in your car (or if you really need a small / lightweight screen). Btw.: If you want even higher resolution, then check out the new Feelworld FW760. (Which is coming with a even higher resolution 1920x1200 panel - Instead of 1280x800 with the FW759.)

[@Pilot853]

Has anyone tested this to see if it works well with the Canon XL series camcorders?

[@AustrianGeek]

+Pilot853 In general it should work ALWAYS (with any camera) - As it´s working well with interlaced AND with progressive signals. So any kind of output you select on your XL camcorder (or your future XL camcorder) -> It´s compatible to it. It´s also not degrading the image in any way according the signal type (tried any type of output I had as an option with multiple cameras - Worked always as it should). That´s the huge pro of this monitor - Paired with the quite good image quality from scratch on at a very reasonable price. ^^

[@LBTRA]

Thanks for this great review, though I bought the Neewer nw760 field monitor (and NOT the FW 760) rather than this one, which is pretty much equivalent anyway, apart from the screen resolution, of course, which is higher. This review was really helpful as there aren't many on YT regarding the Neewer nw760.

[@AustrianGeek]

Just as a hint: The Neewer NW760 is just a rebranded Feelworld FW760. You can go for it - As the FW760 has even more features than the FW759P model. AND as you mentioned already - Its coming with the higher 1080P native resolution screen ^^. Alternatively you can also check out the new Feelworld F7 or the upgraded FH7 model. Same features than the FW760 basically - But with a little bit better enclosure. Or you can also check out the A737 - Again the same features - But with aluminium case. ^^ LG

[@LBTRA]

Thanks for the hints. As I said, I already got it (the Neewer NW 760, got it yesterday) and was on rather tight budget, which is why I didn't go for more expensive models. The NW 760 is a re-brand of the FW 760 as I suspected but, nevertheless, has a totally different menu-look, at least for what I can see from the video. Anyway, the options and settings would be more or less the same. Going to practice with it now as it requires some thorough and in-depth study before one can make good use of it. :-)

[@AustrianGeek]

Ah. Ok. Thought you PLAN to buy one. But hey - Technically / internally they are basically the same overall ^^. About the menu: Don´t oversee that it´s already a newer model than the FW759 aka FW759P. So it´s maybe because of that fact coming with a different menu style. I don´t think that Feelworld modifies their firmwares that far for just a reseller - So for Neewer ^^. Anyways - Have fun shooting (!) LG

[@LBTRA]

Thank you. I've noticed that my DSLR (Nikon D3300), when in LiveView, outputs in 1080p @30fps (at least when it display its internal menu), and that's what the monitor sees as signal type it receives from the camera. The D3300 can record at 1080p 60fps and the field monitor can handle 1080p@60fps as well, so the obvious question is: is it just the camera that downscales (drops) its video output when displaying its internal menu and settings to a 30fps framerate?

[@AustrianGeek]

Well - It seems like Nikon isn´t matching the menu framerate to the actual sensor output framerate. So while filming you´re gettin 1:1 the image of the sensor (at the certain framerate) - But as soon as you switch to the menu, it´s giving you all the time a 30fps / 30P 1080 output. Would have been way better to keep the signal the same - But hey - Maybe it wasn´t possible to match the framerate output in the menu. I know - It´s annoying that the screen blacks out every time you switch to the menu - But there´s no way around that (also not with other screens). Still - You could try to switch the HDMI out settings - Maybe there´s an option to disable the info / menu display over HDMI - Maybe it keeps than the signal (and displays the menu only on the camera directly). LG

[@Jlird808]

How do I see the battery life?

[@Alexhernandezfilms]

I bought this and I can’t figure out which cord o need for my gh5

[@AustrianGeek]

Hi there. In general you would need a full size to full size HDMI cable (as the GH5 offers a full size HDMI port - As the screen - Which is great, as its WAY more stable than the mostly used micro HDMI ports). If you want to go for something better quality wise, then check out the Lindy Cromo cables - They are quite nice (I use one beside my Deleycon cables - But those are not available everywhere). Here is a link to Amazon US: amzn.to/2XL23uS - Btw.: They are also available in 0.5m length (which is enough to use the monitor mounted on top of your camera - Or beside it / close to it). Hope that helps. Have a nice day! LG

[@jamrhxh]

how i can hide the battery status?

[@AustrianGeek]

In case you talk about a battery status on the screen model you use (maybe a newer one from Feelworld) -> You cannot disable that on most models as far as I know. If its the battery symbol of you camera, then check your HDMI output options and search for "HDMI Info display" or "Info overlay" and disable that option in your camera menu. That way you get then the "clear" HDMI out without any overlays from your camera. LG

[@jamrhxh]

@@AustrianGeek ohhh damn, thankk you!!

[@emilyyiienli]

is it compatible with the sony a7s?

[@AustrianGeek]

+Emily Yii Short -> YES. It´s compatible to basically ever input signal type ^^

[@ConorBradshawVideo]

Any idea does this work in Nikon D7200 ??!

[@AustrianGeek]

+Conor Bradshaw Should work nice - As the D7200 is outputting an uncompressed 1080P image (if you adjust it to do so) ^^.

[@jerianlewis1708]

@@AustrianGeek interested in getting this screen for my D7200. Are you saying that the live view should work without the nikon hack mentioned in a few comments? As in having the ability to have 720p or 1080p on the screen?

[@AustrianGeek]

@@jerianlewis1708 You can try it out with a TV or a PC monitor with HDMI port. Just check the camers settings to disable the control overlays (in case you want a clean output). ^^

[@OKLAHOMALOVE2]

I can't get it to work for anything now with my GH4.. I even used the recommendation 1080p. It's not even connecting at all. I tried multiple HDMI chords but still nothing. I know my GH4 is not the problem being that it connects to other monitors. If anybody have any solutions to this problem I'll really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.

[@AustrianGeek]

Try it with a cable on a computer - If its also not working there either, then it´s defect and you need to ask the dealer for a replacement.

[@veganreignmaker]

Do you have the battery in?

[@mattolivarez8156]

Does it support 4K?

[@AustrianGeek]

Nope. Only the FW760 and the brand new F7 supports 4K. Keep an eye on the description of the dealer (if you go for the FW760). (As there are also early models without 4K support.) Overall the best move is to check out the F7 -> It also offers even more features than the FW760 - And it´s just a few bucks more expensive. The FW759 is also a nice unit - But no 4K support there (so your camera needs to scale to 1080P over the HDMI -> Which slows down the AF on some cameras -> GH4 for example). I would go for the new F7 (maybe I also review it some time in the future). Sorry for my late reply btw. ^^

[@rubbishbin233]

will this work with a canon t5i?

[@AustrianGeek]

Yes. Should work. But there could be a small black border on the edges of the frame (as the smaller canon cameras are not outputting a raw signal without any overlays / limitations to protect the Cinema line and the more expensive cameras from Canon - As an example: Even the brand new 80D isn´t coming with a 100% clean output -.-). Btw.: You need to switch through the HDMI output modes with the INFO button (there´s one mode with a bigger image and nearly no overlays). You can still try out the monitors zoom modes to remove the borders (or use at least udnerscan). But don´t use those modes if they make the image worse. ^^

[@rubbishbin233]

ok, thank you for your reply!

[@Cloroqx]

Thanks for the review, mate! So there's no way to desqueeze a 4:3 anamorphic image on this, huh? That's a shame.

[@AustrianGeek]

+Cazaq Nope. At least not with the V2.0 firmware I had on the screen. Maybe it´s now the case with the newer firmware versions (but I doubt it). Especially with such super cheap screens you normaly don´t get anamorphic desqueeze. Btw.: IKAN is offering desqueeze with most of their screens - Maybe you can find a used VK7i or VH7i (latter one I have lying here - Quite nice screen and they are nowadays REALLY cheap available in used condition over Ebay from time to time).

[@Cloroqx]

I'll look into that. Thanks a bunch!

[@lickabadger]

+Cazaq Out of curiosity, are you shooting on a Canon?

[@Cloroqx]

Nop. GH4 and BMPCC.

[@TyeishaTable]

How about Canon t6 ?

[@AustrianGeek]

Hi there. Should work yes. Just don´t forget to disable the WiFi (otherwise no HDMI output as far as I remember) ^^. You can also try it out first with a TV (just plug in the camera over HDMI). LG

[@cinemagestudio2889]

My camera and my feelworld screen is not same in colour

[@AustrianGeek]

Hi there. The problem is: Many internal camera screens are also not calibrated properly / are also not showing the correct colors. Especially with older camera models its a big problem (most of the time you must be happy, that the white-balance is the same as recorded - So that the image is not too warm or too cold recorded internally but shown different on the camera screen). In general the FW759 is "ok" according the colors. But its also not color calibrated to the max from the factory. Try out the settings I used (check out the video at 16:22 to get more info there). THOUGH: It could also be, that they changed something according the panels or the firmware (so it maybe doesn´t apply anymore to your model - Do you have the 759 or 759P or a different Feelworld?). Btw.: If you have a quite color accurate PC monitor, then check the recorded image with the playback image on your camera (on the camera screen and on the Feelworld). That way you can control whats recorded and whats shown on the camera an on the field monitor ^^. (Just copy the file to the computer and open it - But also let it on the SD card to open it in playback mode on the camera). Hope that helps. Have a nice day ^^. LG

[@Asiandragon76]

I am new at it i just bought one for my cannon XA 11 camcorder i just record for fun

[@DinuVideo]

hi, it is posible to update firmware?

[@AustrianGeek]

Possible yes (over the USB port) - But no public fimware files are available online (on the Feelworld pages www-feelworld-cn for example which is their official page). Maybe you get the files if you ask the support. But no guarantee for that. Just buy it new from the offical Feelword store (or from the bigger dealers), as there you have the highest change to get the newest firmware models (as there the unit throughput is way higher than at the smaller dealers - At the smaller ones you maybe get older stock models). Though: My unit I reviewed here also came with an quite old firmware (compared to the models shipped now) - And everything worked quite well ^^. So no need to worry. Firmware update are more important with units which are not working flawlessly from scratch on (which is not the case here). Btw.: There are already new models available - The FW760, FH7, A737 - 7" models - Or the also quite interesting and nice F550 (5.5" 1080P panel) model. Check out www-feelworld-cn for more infos. LG

[@DinuVideo]

thanks a lot, you explain to me wery accurate, my 759 work well, i just was wondering if the fulscreen hd video can be placed from start, for moment i habe 90 % coverage of screen , and after press one button twice, it become full screen, i was thinking some minor fixes in update, but i can live with this litle issue.thanks again for clarifing the situation.

[@andobreslin8735]

Is it compatible with a GH2?

[@AustrianGeek]

+Ando Servis Yes - It is fully compatible (as it´s working with interlaced signals too - Flawlessly). No additional moires or aliasing patterns are shown (just because of the screen and its internal scaler). Actually the best bang for the buck screen on the market. Btw.: I also tested it with the GH2 by myself (as I am still using it to record all my KZbin videos) - So I can tell you for sure that it´s working ^^.

[@andobreslin8735]

Excellent :) I plan on hacking my GH2 also. Probably moon t7 or flowmotion v2. What about battery rigs? They seem to be thin on the ground for GH2's. There's one made in Taiwan, but are there any universal battery grips that can be used?!

[@AustrianGeek]

Well - I am still unsing the DrewNet T9 Long GOP hack (with custom 40MBits in 24L mode). Working like a charm (and if you´re not pushing it THAT hard in post, it´s kind of a "sweet spot" inbetween size / datarate and gradeability). According battery rigs -> I am still waiting for a few converters for a video about a central battery solution (as I am also using just one Sony NP-F970 battery for multiple devices). I am btw. not THAT of a fan of battery grips (as they are too bulky, as soon as you want to use a rig and / or a follow focus for example). I personaly would go for the same solution I am also using actually -> A Sony NP-F battery plate (with a 15mm rod clamp to mount it on a small baseplate with rods) + a DC coupler for the GH2 (which is even working with the new Panasonic G7 if you plan to upgrade later - CinegearPro located in the UK is for example offering one with a wider voltage range from 5 to 8.4V or so - And they also offer Sony NP-F battery plates - Just ask for the right plugs / adapters, so you can mount the coupler directly to the plate). With that solution you can power your GH2 for 10 hours (and even longer) - At least if you´re only powering the GH2 alone. On mobile use I would go for standard batteries (or the PATONA branded ones, IF you can get them somewhere in your location / on your local Amazon website) - The standard batteries are lasting about 1h 30min (or even longer according the capacity). And if you have a few of them (2 or 3), and if you´re not shooting on the go over the whole day, it´s also more than enough (for longer periods you could still use the NP-F + DC coupler solution - The Sony NP-F battery is also usable as an counterbalance on a shoulderrig that way ^^.) LG

[@andobreslin8735]

Ah ok. Thanks for that info! I do have a DC coupler as I bought a bestek powerstation battery. It's an awkward shape though, so attaching it to a tripod is going to be tricky. Hence why a battery grip would be handy to be underneath the GH2.

[@AustrianGeek]

Sure - Such a powerstation / powerbank is also an option. I just don´t like such big ones that much (as it´s quite annoying to mount them somewhere - As you already found out). Sony NP-F batteries are also really cheap on the other hand (so you can buy multiple ones) - PLUS the battery plates are easier mountable (becuase of th 1/4" mounting threads - Even with only a clamp to mount it on the tripod feet). But a powerbank is also an option yes (with alot of power / runtime). Hmm. I don´t have experience with the GH2 battery grips (as they were also too bulky for my taste). But there are multiple ones available - yes. Even with a fixed Li-Ion battery built in (for up to 9 or 10 hours of runtime). Normaly I go for a small baseplate (with rods) + the battery-plate (instead of a battery grip). It´s working like a charm (and there´s still the option to switch to the standard batteries if I want to be more mobile). PLUS: I also get the option to mount other stuff (magic arm for a monitor for example - Or a sunshade / mattebox at the front) - Just in case -> The rods are already there ^^. Well - If you really want to go for a grip -> CineGearPro in the UK is also selling the fixed Li-Ion battery type (if you´re located here in Europe). Or just check out Ebay (and search for a supplier from China directly for example). It´s not cheap - But for sure also handy (if you don´t want to fiddle around with external solutions) ^^. Btw.: A side info - Never ever use AC to DC adapters (aka wall plug switching power supplies) for your DC coupler. You´re ruining your audio that way (only had problems with multiple AD / DC power solutions til now according severe humming on the recordings) ...

[@born2live820]

wondering how much it cost?

[@AustrianGeek]

Well. It´s variating a little bit - But you get it around 140 bucks actually over Amazon for example: amzn.to/2rYgpHU Alternatively check out also the newer FW760 or the F7 (also both from Feelworld). They come with even more features than the FW759 (and even more than the advanced FW759P model). AND: They offer native 1080P screens and 4K input support (so they are also way more future proof - As basically every new camera is coming with 4K now - With exception of Canon ^^). I think it´s a good investment and upgrade from the FW759. So check them out. Btw.: Save a little bit longer, if money is short - It´s worth the waiting ^^. Here are the links for example to Amazon: amzn.to/2tjiGBQ (FW760) amzn.to/2rYc8El (F7)

[@DarthZox]

So basically, my Canon T4i is useless with this monitor?

[@AustrianGeek]

No. It should work - The "camera mode" wich adds aliasing and moiré is just neede for the REALLY old canon cameras (which output 480P while recording and only 1080i in standby and playback mode). The 650D (aka T4i) is outputting 1080i all the time. BUT (as I told "nicolas picard" a few seconds ago): There could be a small black border on the edges of the frame (as the smaller canon cameras are not outputting a raw signal without any overlays / limitations to protect the Cinema line and the more expensive cameras from Canon - As an example: Even the brand new 80D isn´t coming with a 100% clean output -.-). Btw.: You need to switch through the HDMI output modes with the INFO button (there´s one mode with a bigger image and nearly no overlays). You can still try out the monitors zoom modes to remove the borders (or use at least udnerscan). But don´t use those modes if they make the image worse. ^^ You can also try out the HDMI output with a TV set (you just need a cable to test it). Btw.: Screen wise its also working (as the FW759 and FW760 are 100% compatible to the interlaced signal of your T4i). But avoid for example the Aputure screens (also the new Fine-HD models). They are not usable with interlaced signals. Also check out the FW760 (it´s like an upgraded model of the FW759 with a higher resolution panel and even more features than the upgraded FW759P model) ^^.