Ferrite Alternator Windmills

[@TheBillythekid2010]

What are your thoughts of aluminium hubs and how the magnets magnetism transfer into steel? I'm making a turbine that has steel hubs, but will also test a aluminium. Thanks for your vids, been real helpful even your books.

[@scoraigwind]

hi It's important to use a steel or iron disk if you want to maximise the magnetic flux. Aluminiium is not a suitable material for the magnet rotor backing disk.

[@TheBillythekid2010]

Hugh Piggott Ok Got it, thanks for the reply!

[@dansshop]

I feel a bit silly for not playing much with Ferrites yet. Now that some time has passed with these machines I wonder if you'd comment on stopping the turbine with a short circuit, both with shorting all 3 phases, and also just shorting with 1 phase. So far, with NdFeB magnets I've had good luck stopping a turbine at any speed usually just shorting 1 phase, which is nice sometimes if something goes wrong with the line.

[@scoraigwind]

It's a good question, Dan, and there is no doubt that the flux density is lower with the ferrites, which can mean less torque in a direct comparison. But I use massive magnets that fill all the space, and also the whole alternator is a bit bigger too for the same performance so I would say the braking is just as good with these ferrite machines I build nowadays.

[@mog5858]

thanks for your update info as for the blade carving. people today are always looking for a easier way rather than just getting to work. keep up your good work. thanks

[@JamesBiggar]

I think he's speaking in terms of commercializing - it's hard to mass produce competitive wooden blades on schedule when they have to be hand carved with simple tools, without requiring a huge labour force. But for the DIY'er, a reciprocating saw, hammer, chisel, bastard file and sanding block will work just as good as the person using it ;)

[@scoraigwind]

a couple of comments here. thanks for your feedback always appreciated. I find that people do complain that my blade carving is too complex so I do see a need to simplify it but at the same time I think people way exaggerate the amount of time it would take for an experienced blade carver to do the job. Carving your first blade takes forever but the second is twice as quick and it gets quicker still. Measuring and marking is very slow at first whereas given time it only takes seconds. Most of the time is spent scratching your head or worrying about cutting off too much wood, which is all good first time around but in reality not necessary every time, as you learn the process and the skills. Oh and it really will take forever if you try to do it with a file and sandpaper. Sharp cutting tools are the quickest way.

[@JamesBiggar]

Hugh Piggott Yes, sharp cutting tools. That's why I mentioned the reciprocator for doing the lion's share of the work, so to speak. You can remove a lot of material fairly quickly with one of those, or a circular saw - whatever the user's preference. When you get down to the fine detail to reduce drag on the surface when they're performing, switch to the bastard file and sanding block. Nice smooth surface in the end...the finishing really doesn't take very long for - as you said - and experienced craftsman. Standard wood working procedure ;) But yes, your method works just fine, it's how I learned and how I advise anyone else to as well. Thanks!!

[@nitrousman8882]

@@JamesBiggar have you considered CNC? Excellent site... channel and work! Thanks for sharing Doug

[@johanhelberglongbowsknifes1185]

High Hugh i am Johan from South Africa is their a way that i can build my own rectifier or do i have to buy from America that makes it difficult for me. And also a Charge controler do i have to put one in the system to controle the power to batteries or is rectifier enought? Great work Hugh love your work. It first time i try to build a wind turbine. South Africa is starting to have lot of powercuts i want to have a backup before the grid is gone i see many use your ideas you are the human race solution.

[@scoraigwind]

hi Johan, You would need to use diodes to build a rectifier and in the end these would be just as hard to find as the completed unit. They are for sale in every country. Try eBay or get one out of a car alternator. You can charge a battery without a controller but be careful. If the battery gets full then it can be damaged by too much charge and can even explode. A big old "flooded" battery (wet acid inside) is more tolerant than a small, new sealed one. cheers Hugh

[@johanhelberglongbowsknifes1185]

@@scoraigwind Thanks for reply Hugh i was thinking of using a car rectifier but i did not know it will work. I know a car alternator have a rectifier in so the battery wont over charge. mabe it will work. The thing is i can build coild but i dont jnow how thick and how many and i will use the microwave Ferrite round magnets i only want to charge a Lead acid battery 12 volt for LED lights and phones maybe the frige also. If lights go out in South Africa then it will become k=like Venezuela . I am ex police officer and i was in riots and you know when lights go out they steal and break in. Prevention is better than cure. Dint you build a small wind turbine and help me with the specs please. May tell me if i have to use 14 or 15 guage copper wire and how many turns? And how many magnets. The magnests is 14 mm thick and 57 mm wide the inside diameter is 21 mm. But i preciate your help. If you were in South Africa i could have join one of your classes. Cheers from South Africa and blessings for New Year.

[@johanhelberglongbowsknifes1185]

@@scoraigwind Thank you Hugh have great day

[@bridgestopeace]

Very interesting. I came across very large size ferrite magnets used in industrial machines to trap ferric materials and prevent clogging. Some were cube shaped and crazy strong (actually scared me too much to bring back with me). The others were more similar to the shape you are using. To remove them from the machines they get considerably chipped and I am worried about using a magnet that is already a little damaged. Otherwise my neodymium-based low-powered turbines are coming along but when we upgrade, ferrites may be the only way to go here in Ivory Coast. Are ferrites okay with little chipping on the edges?

[@scoraigwind]

hi It's very difficult to damage a ferrite/ceramic magnet. I have used them when they have been broken and they work well. NdFeB magnets are easily damaged. Once the coating is damaged they will corrode and die slowly. cheers Hugh

[@bridgestopeace]

@@scoraigwind Thanks again. Your earlier advice was also helpful. My units are still not very efficient but we are starting with effective (at meeting out tarrget power output 40w on single phase) and then we will refine.

[@philstat100]

Thank You for the great video and information. I will have to look at it again to learn a little better. Sad that the sound keeps breaking up. If I listen closely, I understand and learn a little. Again Thank You

[@johnhelbergreligionandarch3878]

How strong is the Ferrite magnets Hugh in kg 7kg or more the 75mm x 50mm x 20mm

[@m_faitsdiverstv4569]

Bonsoir . J'aimere savoir si le fil aluminium peut aussi fonctionne a la place du fil de cuivres ????? Moi c'est meddy batechi j'habite en RDCongo.

[@scoraigwind]

Yes it would be possible to use aluminium wire if it is suitably coated with enamel. But the efficiency is lower as the resistance of aluminium is higher. So it will overheat at a lower current than a copper wire stator.

[@mianqaisar53]

Hy hugh piggot sir my question is that i low windy area and i want make wind turbine before i made your design blades 3metter diameter but cannot give result i wand make turbine give me some suggestions plzzz sorry sir my English is weak but i think you understand with my question

[@scoraigwind]

Hi Send me pictures of your project on whatsapp to [phone] and maybe I can help you, but I have to say that if you live in a low wind area then you may be wasting your time. Wind power comes from good winds. You may do better to use solar or hydro power instead if you do not have good winds.