Festool LR32 35mm cup hinge Part 4 of the series

[@MrGuardcaptain]

Thanks for this brother. Just drilled a 35mm hole at 37mm on the stops. Thankfully only a test in some scrap but seeing this reminded me to use 23mm. Life saver.

[@josephbreckenridge2966]

Excellent explanation of the use of the 16mm and 32mm rail stops. I finally understand that aspect of the system. I also liked the modified dust collection attachment for the 35mm bit. Thank you very much for your work. You have helped me.

[@Amplifity]

These videos are quite possible the best explanation of not only the LR-32, but also the European 32 mm system. I've heard it mentioned several times, but couldn't figure out what it was. As I was looking into it more, I noticed that the Fastcap ProCarpenter Metric/Standard tape measure has markings every 32mm. It almost looks like a ink splotch until you do the math in between each marking. Looking forward to the next video.

[@Yeelep]

Eric, thanks for all the videos, they've been a great help. One minor correction for the very picky. The stop rods can be set to a tenth of a millimeter via the vernier scale on the holder. To get the 22.5mm you wanted when you were setting up for your hinge cups, you would go to 22mm on the main scale. Then move towards 23mm until the 5th hash mark on the vernier scale lines up with the hash mark on the main scale. In this case it would be the 33mm hash mark.

[@thepoplarshop]

Matt, If you're going to start measuring using millimeters, then let me suggest Fastcaps tape measures. They have a tape called "True32". It's a great tape measure and helps you layout for true32 cabinet building. Eric

[@vvjkumar]

Excellent tip on the dust hood for the 35 mm bit

[@CreativeCarpentry]

That was a clever move using second dust hood

[@mattprzybylski4422]

Thanks Eric. I looked online and for the amount I'd purchase at once the Blum hinges come out at 3.08 so not much of a price difference but good to know for the future. As for the LR32 itself, I've gone back and froth about it but after seeing these videos (greatly done, btw) I've put it back on my "wish list". I'll have to convert to metric too as I'm accumulating more and more Festool stuff but this makes it a no brainer, really.

[@davesmulders3931]

The door in the dust hood is supposed to allow you to move the dusthood around the shaft of the 35mm bit. You just lower the up-position of the router so that the dusthood clears the bulk of the cutter. Added benefit is a really short throw to get the bit to the workpiece. No need for another dusthood. Just some common sense :)

[@thepoplarshop]

Matt, I used GRASS hinges. They are just like BLUM but cheaper. I bought them from a wood working store near me. But I know they are carried online and at other stores. They cost around $3 give or take. I think the GRASS hinge model is 231 M. At lease that's what stamped on the back of them. Hope this helps you out. And good luck and have fun with your cabinet build. Eric

[@Markus3400]

do you have at trick, when the is shorter due to a 2-3 mill reveal in top and bottom?

[@Ezlivin]

If you are looking for the 6mm screws he mentioned, you can find 5mm x 13mm Flat Head Pozi Drive Euro Screws at Rockler or on Amazon. They are designed to meet the sizing requirements for mounting holes in Blum Hinges.

[@Amplifity]

Eric, could you provide a link or some info on where you got the 6mm Euro screws?

[@seanhenry744]

How do you take into consideration a door that has 2mm reveals top and bottom?

[@XYang2023]

It is the same question I wanted to ask. I am going to buy a jig instead.

[@AVSMedical1]

What brand of hinges did you use? I bought some Blum Blumotion but was disappointed to find that they mounted with #6 wood screws not Euro screwss

[@shehbazmalik7534]

What Forstner bit are you using? The ones I've seen all seem to be for drills and are not rated tough enough for routers

[@mattprzybylski4422]

I really like how you have contrasting edge banding on your shop cabinets. My question is regarding the hinges you used for the cabinets since they are frameless, what hinge did you use and how much did it run you? I'm designing my shop cabinets and was going with the blum overlay hinges but you need a face frame for that. I'd prefer your setup but frameless hinges are much more expensive. Do you have a cheaper source?

[@thepoplarshop]

Karl, I bought it from Hartville tools a store in Hartville Ohio. They have a web site. Or you could check Wood Werks, a store in Columbus Ohio they too have a web site. It's a fantastic vest, it holds a lot of tools with a bunch of pockets. I like it more then a tool belt. I think it was around 45-50 dollars. Thanks for watching! Eric

[@richseifert2026]

Question Eric. What are you using at 7:06 to 7:17 of this video? Is it just a drill bit or self-centering? Got a part number? Thanks for GREAT videos!

[@ronbarbara331]

Hi Eric: Excellent videos. They are both entertaining and informative. In fact, I have purchased the system because of them. I am preparing to build my frameless kitchen cabinets and am concerned about how one can account for the the 1.5 or 3mm reveal when drilling the cup hinge in the door. Your video specified a door and cabinet side of equal dimension but I don't think that this would be the case when sizing the door to include the reveal. Can you offer some insight?

[@thepoplarshop]

Ron Barbara Hey Ron, If you want a 3mm reveal around the doors, you'll have to make/use a shim, or cut the 3mm off after you use the LR32. I've used Fastcap Mag shims, metric version as shims, they work great! . I've also trimmed off 3mm after using the LR32 system. You'll also have to consider the hinges you plan on using. Full or half overlay. This will have a factor in how much reveal you'll have. Making a couple test doors with some scrap with help you work out the details. Have fun with the build and good luck! Take care, Eric

[@ronbarbara331]

MrBigerock Hi Eric: Thanks for your quick reply. Forgive me, I think I may have sent you the question twice. You have confirmed my own thought about the shims. Cutting for the reveal afterwards is not an option for me because I am outsourcing the fabrication and lacquering of the doors. This means the doors will be sized and built to include the reveal. The only option is to then use the shims.I also suppose that I'll have to compensate with the shim size to account for the thickness of the lacquer coating on the door edges. Hmmm...too many variables! The doors will be full overlay with 1.5 mm reveals. I'll be using Clip Top Blumotion Hinges - 110° Plus. If you have any further thoughts on the matter I'd be delighted to hear them. Regards, Ron

[@kelauben]

Excellent series of videos. I'm curious, I noticed you wearing a shop apron/coat. I've been looking for something like that as opposed to a tool belt. Could you point me to where you bought it? Thanks and I'm looking forward to more videos! - Karl

[@rickwize1182]

Nice videos. Very easy to follow and exactly what I was looking for as a process for using the LR32. How are you hanging the cabinet?

[@arjaya]

Nice. What is your profession to allow you to support your festool addiction!? I just took the plunge, no pun intended, on my first festool purchase. Ts 55 with the 36 ac dust extractor. I'm excited. Can't wait to get it!

[@bertanatorful]

Great share thank you!

[@fheaney1]

did you size your doors to match the exterior perimeter of your cabinet box? i am making my kitchen cabinets with the 1010 and the lr32 system. your videos have been very valuable learning tools. thanks!

[@thepoplarshop]

Yes, for the cabinet in this video the doors matched the exterior of the cabinet. I used a full overlay door hinge. The cabinet in this video was for my shop. I was not planning on having two cabinets next to each other on the wall. If I was hanging two cabinets next to each other I would have left a 3mm reveal between the door and cabinet exterior. That way the doors have enough room to open when two cabinets are installed next to each other......hope that makes sense. Good luck with your cabinets ! It's very satisfying building them yourself. Take care, Eric

[@robertharrison6370]

I tapped a small set screw into the end of the festool stops so that I could keep the guide bar flush which would have the door flush with the bottom of the cabinet, or I could extend the set screw by 3 mm to add a lower reveal between the door and the cabinet.

[@thepoplarshop]

Matt, The only book that I know of is "Building Frameless Kitchen Cabinets" by Danny Proulx. You could do a web search on 32mm cabinets, but there is not a lot of material out that I'm aware of. The book is okay. It provides a little information. Eric

[@harrisedgar]

In 3:55 you mention that the 35mm bit will fit but the extraction does not, do you know if the bit will fit on my OF 1010 EQ router...? Thank you...

[@thepoplarshop]

Edgar Harris I don't have the OF1010, but I know that the dust port on the OF1010 is built in the router base. So you don't have to worry about the 35mm bit hitting the dust hood on the OF1010. The dust ports on the OF1010 and 1400 are different. Take care, Eric

[@thepoplarshop]

Hey Karl, I just checked the web sites for Hartville and Wood Werks and they have nothing showing with Blaklader. So check out McFeely's web site. They have a large selection of Blaklader in stock. And they have the vest that I wear in the videos. Eric

[@thepoplarshop]

Rick I use SPAX #12 x 3" screws. And I have used GRK 3-1/8" cabinet screws with great results. And I have a cleat installed in the back of my cabinets. Using the cleat allows me to use a thinner back panel to reduce the weight of the cabinet and the amount of 19mm material needed to build the cabinet. Thanks for watching! Eric

[@MrPatdeeee]

Good video. Poor sound. You should use a lavaliere mic to overcome echo which is inherent when recording videos otherwise.

[@budnotu]

Do you have a necklet to go with your bracelet? Very good video. .

[@trevortremaine8468]

What did you set the plunge depth to for the hinge cup?

[@thepoplarshop]

***** If my memory is correct, I believe I set the depth of plunge at 12mm. It's been a long time since I've used the 35mm bit. I'm not sure what hinges you're using, so I would recommend you make some test pieces for the proper depth of plunge you need. Take care, Eric

[@gojoe36]

Sommerfeld's Easy Bore Hinge Boring Jig...

[@tompfarrell]

Another good video and while I appreciate that this is a learning video, is this really quicker than using a drill and pre drilled piece of timber at 32mm spacings? Thanks for the video though, very interesting and great to see all those Festool tools in action before I go out and send £20k!

[@thepoplarshop]

+tompfarrell Quicker then a jig made of timber? Maybe not. Their is some setup involved in the LR32 system. But not much. How accurate is the 32mm spacing on the timber? I would be worried about the wood wearing over time with extended use. Nothing wrong with shop made jigs. I make a lot of them. If it works for you, why change it? What I like about using a router is the dust collection. I've used shelf pin jigs in the past with a drill. I would have to clean up the mess after the drilling was done. No mess with the router. Which saves some time. The accuracy with the LR32 system is far beyond what I could achieve with a shop made jig. Unless you're using a CNC machine.

[@tompfarrell]

+The Poplar Shop oh absolutely the dust collection in any Festool piece of kit is just ridiculously good; nothing compares. Like I say, your video is educational so I get that it takes more time than in normal use. Thanks for the reply.

[@thepoplarshop]

Hey Karl, the vest is a BLAKLADER

[@thepoplarshop]

Hey Jeff, I bought my Euro screws from my local woodworking store Cleveland Tool and Cutter. But I know Mcfeely's carries them, at mcfeely's dot com. You may want to check out ebay as well, I've seen them listed on ebay. Eric

[@mattprzybylski4422]

Thanks, I've added it to my wish list as well :) do you have any youtube videos or channels (or even book) suggestions for 32mm cabinet system making? You can send me an email if you prefer, matt at reintroducing dot cee oh em. Thanks again for all your help.

[@antonstafeyev3606]

so, another Festool promo, but we all know that the front part is 1,5mm smaller. at least it should be, go and use your lr 32 on a proper cabinetry, it is useless shit.