Door lock actuator replacement A4 B8 | How to DIY Audi VW

[@Mdotmike]

Just completed this job with the help of the video - thanks. HOWEVER, I would add two points. The first is that you need to make sure you order the correct actuator. For some reason they come in a 7 pin and a 9 pin configuration (drivers side door - not sure if passenger different), and god help you if you need a 7 pin like I did. The 9 pin is available everywhere for £25 upwards, and this is what I ordered before stripping the door down. Having got it all in pieces and with a sunny day to sit and do the work, I discovered that my A4 uses a 7 pin connection to the actuator. These do not exist outside of a £220 visit to an Audi dealer. I ended up scouring eBay and came up with one for £40 from a breakers yard, but otherwise there was nothing. The second thing is that if you are doing the drivers side lock then you must remove the key lock as well - this presumably isn't a problem on the passenger side as per the video due to there not being a manual lock and key system there. Removing it is simply a case of loosening a retaining bolt in the side of the door, but getting the thing back in was an utter utter misery of a job that took me two hours of swearing and cursing. In essence there is a plastic cover that you have to seat within the door, and if you get it at the wrong angle then the door lock system won't sit back inside again. Add to this that the lock barrel is in two parts with a plate in the middle and every time you can't seat it and need to pull it out then the back half of the barrel drops down inside the door panel and you've got to take the actuator out and start all over again. For anyone happening across this video please bear this in mind as the procedure for the drivers side is a lot more complex / involved. I'm no mechanic so still definitely a DIY job, but prepare to be frustrated.

[@FigureItAudi]

Thanks for your insights on the drivers door version of this DIY!

[@declancasey385]

Just ran into the very same problem here. Would know the code for th 7 pin version?

[@Mdotmike]

@@declancasey385 afraid not. I ended up spending. 40 quid at a breakers yard and I think that will be your best option if you don’t want the expense of going to Audi. A year on and it’s still working fine so the repair / bit I purchased was all good.

[@sjorsvollenberg]

Hey, question, how do you know if you need a lock with 7 pins or 9 pins? Does it depend on the year it was built? Thanks in advance.

[@Mdotmike]

@@sjorsvollenbergI only knew when I pull it out and found out I had the wrong one. It’s really weird as the nine pin version said it was for my year but it wasn’t. Don’t know if your local Audi dealer will be able to explain? Maybe it’s diesel vs petrol models? Mines a diesel if that helps. Depending on how safe your neighbourhood is you may be best just pulling it out and looking. You won’t then be able to lock the car obviously….

[@nickxx971]

Thanks buddy, I managed to change my rear actuator. I damaged a couple of door clicks but the screws keep the panel on all good. Getting the cables on was a little tricky but I did it. Thanks for your video it helped.

[@tommayo5443]

Thanks for the video! Suggestion…..one of the important steps is the disconnecting and reconnecting of the cable the the lock module, (twisting left or right, pulling or pushing, etc…) would of been nice to show a closer and slower look at those steps, instead of fast forwarding… Thank you for the parts dealer, I made a note of them!

[@ZRAmotors]

good video, i done exactly as you shown and was unable to fix so took it to a friend who watched your video along with other and fix it.. Now i know if same issue happend where i need to take the car...

[@Barbienotsoperfect]

Thank you for this video. I know this is old but the same thing happened to my door. This saved me from having to go to the body shop.

[@trevorchamberlain]

One of the best detailed door lock videos I have seen keep up the good work 5*

[@stuartwinstanley4949]

If you just remove the grey cover on your old actuator and spray the slide with wd40 it would work again,they just dry out of grease,they rarely ever brake,just need greasing back up,that's the cheapest way

[@christopherfoley4355]

The grey cover of the actuator part itself? Can wd40 be sprayed at it without taking the door panel apart?

[@stuartwinstanley4949]

@@christopherfoley4355 no

[@skysurfer]

I see that fortunately there have been some design improvements in how that actuator assembly is accessed. (Hello from 2004 MK4 Jetta failed actuator hell).

[@deezalman2481]

Thanks a million! Your video saved me a pile of money! Well done 😊

[@martinnikolov9999]

With VW it’s always either the module or the cabling being smashed over time where the door connects to the unibody. These modules are notorious for having cold solder joints from way back in the 90s. Their design appears to be not changed dramatically over the years and it is kind of sad if this is the problem here and these problems still exist today, some 20+ years later. Usually the unit opens relatively easy and the soldering can be fixed in couple of minutes. Usually on older cars it is good to have them checked every once in a while because once it is double locked from outside and the connection becomes bad, it is close to impossible to open the door without damaging something, especially with the rears. It is worth opening the unit, even for the sakes of a video. Cold solder joints are easily spottable with a magnifier too. Cheers.

[@lungaro]

The locks normally do not function as one of the motors inside (the larger one) has carbon deposits on the commutator, therefore making contact between the various poles. Search youtube for "Audi B8 A4 Door Lock Repair". Assembling the lock back may be a bit tricky, but doable.

[@stapanu85]

You are the best ! THANK YOU !

[@MelvinDlaCruz]

hey what is the name of the cable inside, the one in my car just broke

[@quartfeira]

Hi! Sooo... Just a quick question: are you still thinking about the ceratec testing? 😊

[@michaelbarker1974]

I have the same issue except my passenger door locked and won't open again. Any suggestions on how I open it to replace the actuator?

[@JayNShelley]

Hi. Have an issue on 2013 A3 Sline 5 door. Car locks and chirps. When driving driver door constantly locks/unlocks? Red light on lock panel doesn’t light up. Have fitted new door card to eliminate wiring and switches. Do you think it could still be the lock actuator? Thanks.

[@derekkchung]

Some also open up the actuator and clean up the little motor contacts (or replace it for $3). No need to buy a new actuator.

[@dego8032]

Awesome brother

[@keyenau]

Cambie el actuator pero ahora no hace ruido cuando le pongo alarma, Que sera?

[@tommayo5443]

How much was the new lock module? Thank you!

[@FigureItAudi]

Hi Tom - At the time I paid $210 for it but now I see it's only $129 regular price! Oh well.

[@kiirchh]

@@FigureItAudi hey there. Do you have a link? The only price i see for oe is 560 from FCP euro

[@Midav86]

I have problem on front door pasenger on VW Passat B8 2016,i need to chenge unlock and new price 280€ and servis 40€.

[@ellord9234]

Is the avant the same as the 4 dr sedan? I have the 2010 A4 2.0 Premium( what title says)

[@FigureItAudi]

The actuators will be the same in the sedan vs. an avant but it's best for you to remove your part and confirm the part number because there is a split late in the 2009 production run of vehicles for front and rear actuators.

[@ellord9234]

@@FigureItAudi Appreciate the reply! And that’s good to know. I did not know that.

[@Vimar00]

FCP euro… How are you dealing with bring in parts into Canada? I’ve been hit with brokerage and duty fees from ordering from ECS; the fees were nearly the same as the parts cost! Let me know how you are getting around this, if you don’t mind sharing.

[@FigureItAudi]

I wouldn't say there even IS a secret to getting parts into Canada, really. I'm sure we've all heard stories of guys loading up trailers of stuff across the border and driving back items for a group of people - but I wouldn't qualify that as a feasible method for anyone, really. Over the last few years of purchasing items online though, I have learned some things (the hard way) that's given me small advantages here and there. I'll use your question here as the basis for a new community contributions video and I'll lay out my findings for the channel. Thanks.

[@Vimar00]

@@FigureItAudi I’ve mainly bought parts locally (concept 1) and online from Canadian resellers. Like, Eurosport turning (Canadian reseller of ECS), German OEM, and German parts. The latter two are great for OEM parts (a few performances parts) at a much lower price point than the dealership, however, I have been surprised that sometimes that parts directly from Audi will be cheaper. So I always make a call to the dealership before I complete my online order.

[@WarheadBMW]

@@FigureItAudi I am curious as to what you paid, The cheapest I found was rockauto for $281CAD to my door. I have FCP at $295CAD not including duty and such. The rockauto part is also from Volkswagen so an OEM part too.

[@FigureItAudi]

Yup, that's basically the ballpark. I bought a few things for the wagon and got a 5% off code but whenever I cite prices or compare them in relativity, it's almost always in the shoes of an American buyer, knowing they won't be paying shipping, exchange, and all the incidentals to cross a border. I've more or less made peace that our hobby requires 30%+ cash to have the same project car as a US citizen. Gotta pay to play.

[@kasaipreston2889]

Totally skipped the part with the lock cylinder