Film-Accurate Luke Skywalker Lightsaber from NSABERS

[@mojavetrooper8547]

This saber is made by TXQ and designed by Anakin Starkiller, and it's actually supposed to be accurate to the Mandalorian Season 2 and the Book Of Boba Fett, not Return of the Jedi. The Return of the Jedi hilt is slightly different than this one. Nevertheless, nice review!

[@LightsaberCulture]

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[@4SKUXX]

What is the difference between normal neopixel and proffie, for this saber.

[@LightsaberCulture]

I know it’s confusing labeling but both the neopixel and Proffie are neopixel type boards, and both use the same neopixel type blade and chassis. The “neopixel” tier is actually an S/N Pixel 4.0 board. It’s a medium tier board, similar to Xenopixel. S/N has 27 sound fonts, and for each sound font you can change to 12 colors, 11 ignition effects, and 9-12 blade effects. The variety of programming of the blade and ignition effects are always the same. S/N also has Bluetooth control for customizing these. Proffie 2.2 is an advanced tier. Every sound font has its own custom programmed blade and ignition effects. You can’t change them bc they are customized to each font. It has the most realistic blade flicker in some cases. It’s not easy to change or reprogram these, but they have some of the most unique looking effects and is why advanced installers prefer them. Some effects include blade brightness or color changing when you swing. You can change the color however. Proffie does not have Bluetooth control.

[@yuth5614]

Hello, I purchased one myself after seeing this video. Is it normal for the blade inside blade holder to clatter and a bit unstable?(well there's only 1 retention screw hole and shallow blade holder) I've tightened the screws but I can feel some clicky feeling whenever I swing the blade. makes me worry that it's gonna break. Is it okay to spin around the saber like in the video?

[@LightsaberCulture]

Over time, my blade started to have a slight wiggle as well. But some of my other blades do not. As far as I can tell, it’s safe to spin. But as with all sabers, it’s a good idea to reseat the blade and make sure the screw is tight. My KR blade from Bendu Armory was great. I think it has slightly more snug than the original standard blade.

[@yuth5614]

@@LightsaberCulture Thank you, I might look for kr blades as well.

[@FreeMind4492]

If you bought a neopixel version it's probably the led strip wobbling inside the blade tube, nothing serious.

[@1andonlyhoncho]

The cool thing about this specific saber is that 4 more "hidden" retention screw holes are on the threads where the "blade emitter" screws-in. Use any two screws at a 90 degree angle. Personally, I check where in relation to the activation box the retention screw you already know about on the blade emitter is, and use the two retention screw holes on either side of it, plus the third/ orginal screw and it should be solid.

[@SCOTTEDM]

9:41 Not sure if this is related or not but the poster art for Return of the Jedi has Luke with a blue lightsaber.

[@LightsaberCulture]

Originally, George intended for this lightsaber to be blue but it blended too much with the blue sky on the Tatooine scene.

[@SCOTTEDM]

@@LightsaberCulture Im with you just noting that the original poster art seems to support what you are saying as well. Ive also seen a later version of the art with the saber color changed to green.

[@myscrnnm]

What does the N stand for?👀

[@LightsaberCulture]

It’s probably an acronym for neopixel

[@micahfranklin4560]

How do you change the soundfronts ?

[@LightsaberCulture]

Click the aux button when the blade is off.

[@micahfranklin4560]

@@LightsaberCulture where is the aux button located ?

[@NormandyN7]

Is only has one screw to hold the Blade but its so nice

[@LightsaberCulture]

It only needs one screw.

[@1andonlyhoncho]

There are 4 more holes on the threads where the emitter caps screws down, which makes this design brilliant. Highly recommend it, but this color is being phased out, so get it whereever you can that still has it.

[@damokebusdrivah9701]

I have this exact Saber and I hate charging it. My battery is so tight inside I thought I broke it(saber) taking it out to charge. After charging the battery and putting it back in I had no power. I took out battery again repeated the process but still no power. I gave up let it sit overnight tried turning on a boom it worked. Now I’m scared to charge again fearing it won’t work for good this time. Wish this one came with a built in charger.

[@LightsaberCulture]

The battery will loosen over time after several charges. Today, one firm jolt pops it right out. As for putting the battery back, you have to listen for the activation sound. Sometimes it takes removing and returning the battery a few times. It gets easier over time as the contact break in. It’s real tight when it’s brand new.

[@IkariWarrior1701]

So apparently this is the third version with the light up control box, I just bought the last version with no light and the arrows are the PWR and AUX buttons before this one came out. Do you think it's possible to get a replacement control box portion of the hilt? This version seems perfect!

[@LightsaberCulture]

Yeah this is definitely the newer version. I doubt they offer the control box but I recommend contacting NSabers to ask.

[@rafster1882]

I just bought one. No instructions on how to put it together. How do you power it off?

[@LightsaberCulture]

On the two buttons, click the one towards the emitter.

[@jasonstinson3894]

Hey bro. 2 Questions as I am a noob to neopixel sabers and to Nsabers as a company. 1. Do you just screw the blade on any old way? My blade has a little divot on 2 sides and didn't know if i should screw it in there or not? Don't want to mess it up. 2. What is the damn plug for? My biggest complaint about this saber so far ( only been one day) is that the instructions are super vague and do not explain basic things( like how to turn the damn thing off, what the plug is for, battery isn't labeled for +/- ect,ect.). On the plus the hilt is just ridiculously pretty. Thanks for your time.

[@LightsaberCulture]

On a neopixel you can tighten the screw on any side of the pixel. It will create an indent. Make sure the it’s firmly connected by turning it on as you tighten the set screw. I forgot if this comes with a blade plug. There is a display emitter, which allows you to screw on a blade-less emitter that looks closer to film accurate. If it comes with the insert-able blade plug, it is kind of goofy to use with this bc i’m sure it sticks out. The instructions are kind of vague because it’s a general manual that works with multiple sabers. You have to follow the instructions for your specific electronics board. I have the Proffie so I follow the 2 button Proffie instructions (I don’t know if 2 button works with the other neopixels). The buttons are on the side of the control box. It’s a black rocker dual button. The top one usually lets you turn the blade on and off. The bottom one let’s you change sound fonts. If this is how yours works, it’s much easier to use than than the usual single button ones.

[@jasonstinson3894]

@@LightsaberCulture thanks

[@jasonstinson3894]

@@LightsaberCulture i know you push the rocker switch to turn the blade off but how do you turn the whole thing off? the lights on the side stay lit up for a few minutes before the whole thing finally turns off. Thanks again

[@emmanuelsongalia7380]

awesome!

[@LightsaberCulture]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@LouisonDArthez]

Is this model also from NSabers? What difference with the LUKE EP6?

[@LightsaberCulture]

The lightsaber I compared it to at the end is similar to Luke EP6. The EP6 is more chrome, and has more of a disc shape on the ridges, with a larger emitter cup.