Filters for Black and White Film Photography

[@stephan.scharf]

Blue filters are perfect in character portrait photography to accentuate skin imperfections (older people).

[@SteveONions]

Good point Stephan.

[@epstar83]

This is the best demo I’ve seen on filters Steve! Most videos seem to talk only about the sky and how yellow / orange/ red effect the sky. I’ve not seen many demos of green and blue. But I can totally see how in a scene without much sky both of those filters could be of value. Makes me want to get out there and give them a go. Thanks for another good video!

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Michael. I’ll follow this up at some point with a video comparing graduated filters and a polariser with the coloured ones.

[@RogerHyam]

When using a view camera I spot meter through the filter before I put it on the camera. This is good because I'm usually metering the shadows and if I'm using, say, a red filter they will be a lot darker through the filter than simply the manufacture's white light correction - because the light is blue. Always looking to get those shadows dense enough!

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Roger. I usually avoid reading through the filter unless it’s onto a grey card (or similar tone).

[@iNerdier]

Well I’ve learnt something from this, apparently I would enjoy trying out a blue filter.

[@SteveONions]

Definitely worth trying, especially if there’s mist around.

[@renepirolt]

Thank you for keeping us entertained and educated. Glad you have a backlog of footage. Please keep safe. We're all looking forward to your future outings.

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Rene, I’m sure I can do something interesting in the garden 🙂

[@user-is4jf8yr4z]

I like the Blue Filter, it creates a kind of dreamy mood.

[@SteveONions]

It’s definitely a different look, all the others are variations on the same basic look but blue is way out there.

[@zitnbit]

Interesting. This is why old photographers' friend was a yellow filter. It's not the best but it enhance a result at every situation.

[@SteveONions]

I’m definitely in the yellow is best camp 🙂

[@TheMrMKultra]

Great showcase, thanks for that! I'd like to add something worth noting: The reason some tones (like the shadows) seem to be "lifted" with certain colour filters is the added exposure one has to give it to compensate for the tones that the filter filters out. So when the blue shadows look lighter with the blue filter, it's because of the +2 stop exposure, but the other tones are just toned down. Of course you can't record tones brighter than the scene gives to you and than the film is able to record.

[@SteveONions]

Very true Marvin 👍

[@pumper325]

You are a Jedi. JC that was an incredible tutorial. I can't thank you enough brother.

[@SteveONions]

🙂

[@lhuhnphotography]

Thanks Steve. This is good timing for me. I just bought a set of B&W filters for my 4x5 camera and though I already understood the basics, this side by side comparison was valuable.

[@SteveONions]

Glad it was useful Larry.

[@billleontaritis7638]

excellent as always, great information.

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Bill.

[@sergeykolbinsky5940]

Excellent work and good examples I finally realized why the need for a blue filter in bw photos

[@Wolfcubware]

Found your channel a few months back and I've been binging your stuff ever since, straight-forward, down to earth content that's helped me improve my own work. Can't wait to try using filters on my black and white rolls, keep up the good work!

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Arron, I’m glad you enjoy the videos 🙂

[@ManCalledMif]

I’m new to filters. Great video demonstration of the effect of the different colours. Thanks 🙏🏼

[@SteveONions]

You’re welcome.

[@stuartcazares3747]

Great video teaching the different effects of the colored filters available. Very informational and entertaining. Thanks!

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Stuart, glad you liked it.

[@richardsimms251]

Very good video

[@SteveONions]

Thanks

[@randybennett6846]

As always Steve, a well thought out, concise vid; this actually was very helpful to me regarding the green and blue filter effects. Thanks again, and stay safe

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Randy 🙂

[@benjaminfargen]

Great Info...Great Video. Thanks again, Steve!

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Benjamin 🙂

[@BlackLabAdventures]

As always, Steve, excellent video! Thank you!

[@SteveONions]

Cheers Barry.

[@jakobstyrupbrodersen926]

Thanks for an excellent video :-) Now I understand the green and the blue filters :-)

[@roywilkinson9879]

Excellent, Steve!

[@duogelland]

Thank you so much, that's really a wonderful demonstration about filter effects.

[@SteveONions]

Glad you liked it 😊

[@anthonybeggs9173]

very useful informative, good comparisons to help understand differences

[@SteveONions]

Glad you liked it Anthony.

[@csreiter]

This was the comparison I was looking for. Thank you!

[@SteveONions]

You’re welcome Chris.

[@photog1529]

I'm for any filter that eliminates the wind generators from the scene. :) Very nice demonstration, Steve.

[@SteveONions]

Haha, yes - blue really does have a purpose 😀

[@oldfilmguy9413]

Excellent exercise! Thank you, and nice to see these done using Cokin filters - they don't cost an arm and a leg! Great video, and looking forward to further explorations! Cheers!

[@SteveONions]

Thank you 🙂

[@TheGazmondo]

Hi Steve, what I like about this video, it’s what we all ways say we will get around to doing, and of course never really do thoroughly. So again well done mate, great demo !

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Gary.

[@asherdog9248]

Nice video, I will catch you next video with the polarizer.

[@SteveONions]

Please do!

[@JeffStovall38]

Thank you for this really helpful video Steve. I appreciate your time, effort, and expense to make this demonstration.

[@SteveONions]

Glad you liked it Jeff 👍

[@redbank542]

Thanks for that. Needed to understand filters better. Helped a lot

[@paultaylorphotography9499]

Red was always my go to filter but that green on the woodland was impressive. Great vid Steve cheers.

[@SmokinGun55]

Another helpful video Steve. Very revealing. Fine work and looking forward to future postings on this subject.

[@brett1354]

Nice. I thought I was the only one who had blue filters. Useful for compressing contrast.

[@SteveONions]

A much underrated tool 👍

[@geirfinnlysne712]

Good work. Thank you!

[@brianmccutcheon3205]

Have always wanted to know this, you explained it very well. Thank you

[@bakermantube]

Very interesting video and a wonderful landscape, thank you so much! Stay safe!

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Andreas.

[@davecockayne8491]

Great video. Highly informative. Thanks,Steve. Regards,Dave.

[@timbrown5304]

Absolutely fascinating Steve. I thoroughly enjoyed that and I'm looking forward to the next one.

[@grahamrichards8531]

I agree, a brilliant demonstration, many thanks.

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Tim.

[@SteveONions]

Cheers Graham.

[@RobertBergan]

Great informative video. Definitely trying out a blue filter now. Would be great if you could do this with a wider range of subjects, especially city scapes or architecture. Maybe even a series, one video for each coloured filter. Hint hint.....

[@SteveONions]

Totally agree Roger, glad you said what I’ve been thinking 🙂. Separate videos would be very useful in a mix of environments. PS - I’ll be introducing some urban content this year.

[@MichaelWellman1955]

Thank you for this video. Color filters are such an important part of a B&W photographers tools to use. Unfortunately, I don't think many new photographers are aware of it. Unfortunately the video wasn't as good as your prints to see the difference or at least on my screen. I'm a big red filter user and I was surprised to see the sky so light with a red filter. I usually get a 1-2 stop darker sky than what you got. A polarizer and red filter when you have big clouds in the sky is fantastic. Thanks for the video. Stay safe

[@MichaelWellman1955]

@@lisaw150 These are different times now for photography and film. I'm in Austin, TX and we are fortunate to have a large camera store here but they're film supply and related film items is rather dismal. I buy all my film needs on-line with one of the big camera stores out of NY or CA.

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Michael. The direction I shot in made the effect less noticeable, the sky behind me was deep blue but there was little else of interest in the scene so I decided to stick with the beach view. Next time I’ll ensure the sky is the main element of the test.

[@mcdo0gal1985]

on that first exercise I liked red for the top half (beach, water, sky) and yellow for the bottom half (grass)!

[@mcdo0gal1985]

ah, but I guess the stop adj would create an issue actually doing something like that!

[@millerviz]

Very instructive. Thanks for doing this.

[@SteveONions]

Cheers Curtis 👍

[@stuartbaines2843]

Very good demonstration of filter use 👍 Can't say i find it easy to previsualise these results myself 🤔

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Stuart.

[@raybeaumont7670]

Hi Steve, excellent display of the filter effects. I prefer yellow or orange on FP4 - the red gives too much contrast for my printing style. I do use the blue occasionally - to add a little extra depth to skin tones sometimes. Works wonders for freckles! LOL Thanks, and take care.

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Ray.

[@kent2000100]

I always learn something from you on these videos, very enjoyable to watch. Thank you!

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Kent.

[@DizinEire]

I tend to shoot the same photo in colour and mono. So filter up for colour, then shoot both. My mono contrast filters dont extend beyond Orange and Red. A timely reminder to revisit the other colours. I haven't used Blue, but you vlog has me intrigued Thanks Steve. Cheers Diz

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Diz. I remember being surprised at the response of the blue filter when I saw it covered in Ansel Adams book series.

[@aviathor]

As always, another great video, thank you very much, you inspire me

[@SteveONions]

I’m glad you liked it Claudio.

[@KerryFreemanMelbourne]

Very helpful video.

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Kerry.

[@jasonwander4841]

great comparison, and hope you stay safe from the virus .

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Jason.

[@CornishMotorcycleDiaries]

Most helpful Steve and also props for making it clear about staying safe.

[@FinalManaTrigger]

You're not going to catch COVID-19 by being out in the wilderness alone. The lockdown where he lives seems very heavy-handed.

[@steveh1273]

Good one Steve. I don't own a blue filter, but now I realize that if a scene could work in high key, use of a blue filter would help get you there.

[@SteveONions]

Even I’ve realised I need to be using it more Steve 🙂

[@jimkarban6489]

A purple filter will act like a polarizer. I've used one to knock down reflections on rock formations. Kills the UV light I guess. Also, I like placing a red filter on the lens with a polarizer over it, then include the bluest part of the sky in the scene to get a very dark sky against white but detailed clouds. Great video Steve, really got me thinking about the other colors and their filter factors.

[@SteveONions]

I’ve never come across a purple filter Jim, I have used red and polariser which gives a very strong effect.

[@erichstocker4173]

As always really well done and very useful.

[@bobbygoulding2124]

Your videos are great! Thank you for sharing your knowledge

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Bobby 👍

[@thevalleywalker]

Explained perfectly for those like myself who have not shot film. I have some cokin coloured filters here (yellow n orange) and a roll of B&W film, will have to take them with me when I eventually get5 back out - thanks again Steve, hope this situation is not driving you too scatty - fingers crossed it won't be as long as the forecast suggest. Atb Alan

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Alan. Sadly we seem to be forecast to get lovely weather for the next couple of weeks 😕

[@v-g-z3689]

This has been the only useful information on this subject I hve found so far on the internet. Very well done! 1,5 years ago, I shot some black and white ORWO NP 20 film in Italy on holiday, using a yellow-green filter for "street"-photography. The results were not very pleasing: Way to much contrast, black shadows, white highlights, very little midtones. I´ve been trying to find out the different effects of the filters since then, but nobody did a proper side by side comparison like this. Now that has changed, thank you!

[@SteveONions]

I’m very pleased you found the video useful 🙂

[@mcroman-superfeat]

Hi, Funny just thinking what filter I should use to improve my shoot in B&W, and I stumble over this (again)see this episode 3-5 times, very learning ::: I just Invest in a USED - Nikon D5300 + Nikon Lens 18-105mm (150£), and this too: Nikon F60 Film Camera with Tamron 70-300 Lens. (28£) All Cameras look like NEW ;) :: What I hear you say YELLOW is a great filter to use w/ Orange & Red . THX for sharing this knowledge and all hard work you do, and also sharing this info... /// McRoman ...

[@SteveONions]

Glad you liked the video Ian.

[@isaiaszepeda42]

Great explanation Steve have never try filters before, i think i will get my mamiya 645 and give it a try and see if i can come out with something good stay safe

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Isaias, good luck with the 645.

[@terrywbreedlove]

Fantastic video thank you. I use green and yellow for foliage. Green for green leaves etc. Yellow for fall colors. I have a red filter for blue skies with white clouds. A polarizer to cut glare on the wet leaves and rocks etc. I shoot my Hassleblad and Chamonix F1 4x5 cameras and never use a graduated ND filter preferring to take care of that in the darkroom. Oh and I have a couple full ND filters.

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Terry. I’d like to do another test and include grads alongside polariser.

[@laughinggravy6617]

Thanks Steve, I always enjoy your videos. I hope your'e doing okay in lockdown, must be hard not being able to go out as much, especially in this beautiful weather.

[@SteveONions]

I feel like a cat that’s sat behind a window looking out at little birds 😊

[@JohnTomasella]

Well at least you had the same thing happen that I do. You shot toward the hazier sky @1:30 as opposed to the bluer sky @1:35, and it didn't go as dark as it could of. I used a green filter on some pine trees, same kind as your second photo, they were in full sun and it managed to turn the needles white. It was exactly what I wanted. Seeing your green filter where the greens were in the shade, I can now see what effect the sun has on the subject and filter.

[@SteveONions]

Thanks John. I’ve used green to give a result close to infrared at times. I would have chosen to shoot the deep blue sky but I really wanted the beach in the shot 🙂

[@erinmontoya1128]

Great insight into the effects of B&W filters I wonder how a blue filter would effect black and white portraits in natural light. I bet you could achieve a nice backlit shot without blowing out the highlights.

[@SteveONions]

I think blue offers a lot of possibilities Erin, it’s effect is totally different to the other four.

[@barrydduggan]

Fantastic video Steve. Would it not be easier however to just adjust the contrast in Lightroom? Cheers.

[@SteveONions]

You can do some adjustment in LR Barry but the filters do provide some separation in the tones which helps a lot. In the darkroom however I have no such control so I have to get it right in the negative.

[@jasonjeandron9380]

Hugely helpful. Thanks, a lot!

[@buyaport]

Thanks a lot. Apparently many film photographers of today don't appreciate or understand filters. I learned that a yellow filter would give your pictures a natural look i.e. what you see. That is the main reason I use 400 ISO film - to shoot handheld with a filter...

[@SteveONions]

I also like to shoot 400 speed handheld to allow for a filter, it’s a bit of a push with ISO 100 even with primes 🙂

[@vedostuu]

Great insights! I usually measure the filter compensation with a light meter, just holding the filter over the meter. I think yellow or even orange filter is a must, unless you are shooting portraits :) The blue gives nice orthocromatic look to portraits.

[@SteveONions]

I’d nearly always use a yellow as a standard filter unless it’s dull and rainy when I usually do without anything.

[@georgefrench1907]

Excellent exercise. Thank you.

[@DiviPhotos]

Cool video

[@SteveONions]

Thank you.

[@valerijkoval2904]

Thank you Steve! Well done! Very usefull information! Greetings from Ukraine!!!

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Valerij.

[@tomharold8239]

Is this around by Crosby/Formby kinda area? Used to love going there

[@SteveONions]

It is indeed Crosby beach Tom.

[@distagon6052]

It may be interesting for viewers to have you compare degrees of exposure compensation based around the filter factor.

[@SteveONions]

Indeed, I need to cover this in more detail next time I delve into filters. I’ll pick a few different locations and also use 35mm so I can include a polariser and ND grads.

[@richardstollar4291]

Very interesting comparisons... Have you tried using graduated colour filters? I'm new to 4x5 and am trying to get as much information from more experienced shooters as I can. Perhaps using something like a graduated yellow covering the sky and a graduated blue on the foreground? Sure the different compensations may need to add a grad ND over the yellow but could be interesting.

[@SteveONions]

Now that would be interesting Richard, I think those grads are extremely cheap too.

[@davidpresnell1734]

I shoot a Mamiya RB 67 which loves to go outside. I notice you don't include a polarizing filter in your investigation. Depending on the angle of the sunlight I get some amazing results, minimising some of the problems you note. Thanks for the educating notes.

[@SteveONions]

Thanks David. The simple reason I left out the polariser was that I had just enough frames to cover the 5 filters and one unfiltered shot for the two scenes. I’d have needed another roll to do it with the polariser (definitely next time though) 😀

[@davidpresnell1734]

Amazed that you replied! Thanks! I've just adapted my RB with a 90mm view camera lens. It cuts down on the weight and slows me down enough to think about the quality of my images. I'm eating up your videos! I still print with an omega 4x5 enlarger and enjoy nature like you do. I live in Florida where we have nature to rival your area. Thanks again and photograph your brains out!

[@arildedvardbasmo490]

Regarding the Hasselblad lens repair, which repairshop did you use? I just had my 80mm CF shutter and lens completely CLAd at Cameratiks in Edinburgh and only paid £120 or something like that. Thanks for the video! It made me realise the difference between red and orange, and some understanding about my blue filter...

[@SteveONions]

I can’t remember who repaired it to be honest as it was 10 years ago but I do remember them saying the sand had got everywhere.

[@justindavisphotography]

With 200+ comments I’m not sure this was already asked or not. Great video. Really useful info, as I’ve come to expect from watching your videos over the last week, already subscribed. That said the negative isn’t the end of the story is it? I’m wondering what the difference you get between being able to make the same image with VC paper and the print vs what you got on the different negatives. Does that make sense? With a limited budget, for example why buy a yellow filter if I could get the same effect when printing? Not saying you can, asking the question, could you? The info on the blue filter was especially interesting!

[@SteveONions]

Good question Justin. It's extremely rare that using a filter will make a shot work compared to not using one. The differences are often subtle, especially when using the more modest colours (I don't care much for red or even orange in landscape work). What I do notice is the subtle improvement in tonal separation, to my eye a shot taken with a yellow filter looks better than one taken without a filter. This isn't always the case and on dull/overcast days it makes no appreciable difference to my eye. If I were to work exclusively with a film/digital workflow then I could achieve good results without the filter. Digital processing allows so much more control over highlights and shadows that even a poor negative can be rescued. In the darkroom however I need all the help I can get and having even slightly improved separation and a darker sky means less manipulations are required. I particularly dislike working on the sky area with long and complicated burning and find the yellow filter will reduce this noticeably. PS - another reason for using XP2 super is the much improved highlight control, even when used without a filter.

[@justindavisphotography]

@@SteveONions thank you so much for taking the time to leave such a thoughtful response. Excellent feedback for someone thinking about returning to film after being away 25 years.

[@Paws2Explore]

Hi Steve, thank you for such an in-depth but not overwhelming explanation and presentation. I guess I am now off to purchase a set of coloured filters for my 35mm. Can I just clarify that yellow should be used in all but rainy dull days and then the others based on their colour and that of they type of scene and the colours in that scene etc.

[@SteveONions]

Thank you. I’d pretty much go with your summary, yellow is a go to filter for me unless very dull and grey.

[@sylvainp1786]

Very useful video Steve, thank you! I'm just starting shooting b&w after a few years sticking to color negative.

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Sylvain.

[@sylvainp1786]

@@SteveONions do you have a recommendation for a decent 35mm film scanner for someone on a budget? I use an epson flatbed right now, but it's kind of a pain for 35mm...

[@SteveONions]

Sylvain Petit you could try an intermediary model like a Plustek or even a Reflecta Crystalscan 7200. I have the latter and it gives a true 3200 dpi with excellent infrared cleaning. It’s not as good as a late Coolscan or Minolta but a big step up from a flatbed.

[@sylvainp1786]

@@SteveONions thank you I'll check those out!

[@wojciechneprostipotocki]

Może następnym razem zrób zdjęcia przy bardziej czerwonym niebie. Bliżej zachodu słońca kiedy jest mniej prowieniowania UV a wiecej podczerwieni.

[@roman_thephotog]

I want to know what microphone did you use. Barely can hear the wind.

[@SteveONions]

It was probably the Rode Video Micro (or their smart Lav).

[@mauro_music]

Nice video! Green could be good for portraits?

[@SteveONions]

It could be good indeed.

[@steveschnetzler5471]

I picked up these filters (used) years ago, but never knew what to do with them. Great explanation, Thanks. Would also be interested to know if there is any advantage to use them on digital cameras, when you know you are going B/W conversion? Maybe under extreme conditions, or to be able to see what you would might get later (in LR)?

[@martineden1165]

I've used my red and yellow before on my dslr knowing I would convert later to b&w and it has added the exact contrast you would expect from film. Also have a cheap 10 stop nd filter that doesn't filter infrared, so color shots come out as if shot with a red filter adding nice contrast when converted as well. So I guess yeah, give it a shot if you want!

[@steveschnetzler5471]

@@martineden1165 Thanks, I will.

[@SteveONions]

I’ve never tried it Steve, might be worth a go 🙂

[@flavioserci6046]

I like the green with the grass. I've never used it. I'll try. About the cokin filters quality what do you think?

[@SteveONions]

I find the quality to be more than adequate for my needs. Any discernible difference is lost in the grain and lens quality (not to mention film flatness).

[@flavioserci6046]

@@SteveONions What about the graduated ND in film photography?

[@philipculbertson55]

Wow. I was really surprised at the differences in the shots. So would the result on a digital file in LR follow the same basic rule regarding Blue and Red? Red being most contrasty and blue lifting shadows? Would you begin with a blue filter profile or just do a black and white conversion and then just adjust for tone using basic controls. I guess to simplify, is there a reason in LR to pick a BW filter profile or can the same effect be obtained issuing a basic conversion and then just adjusting for tone as desired?

[@SteveONions]

If I am working in Lightroom I’d just start with the straight colour image then adjust contrast and brightness initially. After than I’d work on the individual colour channels, especially blue but only if necessary, I like to keep the scene natural and not over processed.

[@kannibaal]

Hi Steve, Nice comparison. I'm curious how close you could get the images by tweaking the contrast in the darkroom or digitally. Maybe a nice video to create while stuck at home? ;)

[@SteveONions]

I could have made significant differences Elbert but if there’s insufficient separation in the tones to begin with there is only so far you can go. Dodging and burning would also help but do it too much and the grain structure is adversely affected and it would look false in bigger enlargements.

[@BillPutnamPhoto]

Great video. I'm looking at filters now and this helps. Red it is! Have you ever stacked filters?

[@SteveONions]

Only a couple of times to be honest to slow down the shutter speed and this was red and orange. Not sure what it would look like if you used something like red and blue!

[@mkinghk]

Good video. The demonstration make me easy to learn. May I know what series of Cokin filter you are using?is it the z series?

[@SteveONions]

I now use the Z series on the Bronica but the video uses the smaller P range I believe. I need the larger size for the 40mm PS lens that has a 95mm filter thread.

[@mkinghk]

Steve O'Nions thanks!

[@martinmonk9504]

Hey Steve, many thanks for this comparison. How much of a factor is the specific emulsion used? I.e. would you expect the same results with say Delta 100 or Tri-X? As far as I know, Kodak has tried to eliminate the need for filters by tweaking the film's responses to different light wavelengths. I tried new Tmax 400 without filter and got very dark skies with it, for example.

[@SteveONions]

They all differ Martin, I chose FP4+ as it’s fairly standard but even your brand of filter would make subtle changes. It’s worth sticking to as few films and developers as possible to reduce the number of variable.

[@buchsg]

One thing I was thinking watching the beach result, maybe I would use some color graduated filters one red for the 2/3 of the picture and a « reversed » graduated blue to open the shadow in the grass... I need to try that one day to see if it could work 😀

[@SteveONions]

That could actually work Gregory.

[@jimkarban6489]

That's a killer idea! Could experiment with a digital camera in monochrome mode to see the effect.

[@sparkleglitch13]

In your experience does using a physical filter benefit a digital B&W sensor like it does film? Or does Lightroom do a good enough job with a raw file?

[@SteveONions]

I've never tried it Eris but I think it would make a very interesting video!

[@patrickmarquetecken8107]

Very good video, for the moment I have not good results with my filters. But the blue seems, to be a good choice for high key and long exposures for sea scapes I suppose ?

[@SteveONions]

Blue is a real oddball Patrick, often it will kill a scene but it can also expand shadows and reduce contrast in others. Well worth an extra frame when you are unsure of how to capture certain scenes.

[@patrickmarquetecken8107]

Thanks, I’m also still trying to get a black sky , using a Red filter and a Polarisation filter.

[@stefansipl6736]

this was really helpful! Thanks! I plan to buy a Leica Q2 Monochrom and as I understand it I have to use filters while taking the picture because in post processing it’s not possible anymore to address these channels. Well, sounds logical :) So is it reasonable to start of with yellow and red? I mainly shoot people (portraits/street).

[@SteveONions]

Good luck with the Q2 Stefan, it sounds like a great camera.

[@guillermoperezsantos]

The green filter is the best for lanscape, the red filter is good for street photo

[@SteveONions]

I like green but prefer yellow as an all round filter 🙂

[@avr10]

Hi Steve, thanks for your excellent examples and comparison. I was wondering how much it's a problem to have color cast from ND filters when shooting film. I guess it can be easily corrected for digital, but what about BW film?

[@SteveONions]

It’s not a problem with B&W film as the cast (if any) is very slight and makes no difference when rendered in a grey scale. I’ll do a follow up video later this year comparing coloured and graduated filters.

[@michaelcase8574]

Portrait photographers would also use green filters to smooth out skin tones and hide blemishes.

[@SteveONions]

Very true 🙂

[@impressionsoflight9263]

Hey Steve, thanks for the video. As you know different filters affect different colours. I’m curious what would happen in that last shot if you split the shot into two exposures, each one stop under. The first using a green filter and the second using a blue. Could be an interesting experiment (or not :) ) Stay safe 👍🏻

[@SteveONions]

That’s a very good question and not something I’ve ever tried before. Maybe there’s a video in it 😀

[@impressionsoflight9263]

Hmmm maybe there’s a commission in it for me 😂

[@pixiedixie3682]

Very interesting video, but what about to use glass filters on digital cameras? Do they work as well as on film cameras? Thank you.

[@SteveONions]

I’ve never actually tried applying coloured filters to digital imaging. Not yet anyway.

[@Routerer]

Verty interesting Steve and yes i have had my daily "fix" of your videos, i rarely comment btw as i tend to watch them on the tv and not signed in...anyway. Your video set me thinking...dangerous i know, but i wear glasses now as i see you do too at times and i do notice glare from bright surfaces when wearing glasses and have wondered lately if perhaps a UV or Blue lens would help in the spectacles. I did ring the optician yesterday but they are closed for the duration. Do you have any views on this....are yiou an optician ? lol.

[@SteveONions]

That’s a very good question but I’m not sure if blue would help. I know that a decent anti reflection coating makes a huge difference and I wouldn’t but a pair without it.

[@Routerer]

Thanks You Steve, i'll look in to that once the optician opens again, in the meantime you stay away from Snowdonia or that forest.

[@kharisekky6339]

What the best filter for skin tones in bw photo?

[@SteveONions]

I’m really not sure which filter would work best, I don’t shoot portraits 🙂

[@doogster07]

Hi Steve. I’m in the market for a Bronica SQ-AI. I really like the square format. Anyway, I saw that you are able to use a shutter release cable. My question is; are you able to do long exposures longer than 8 seconds (bulb mode). I have been unable to find whether or not the SQ-AI has a bulb mode. Thanks for any info and stay safe!

[@SteveONions]

Hi Chris. The SQAi has the longest shutter time of the range at 16 seconds. After that you can use either Bulb or ‘T’, the latter is performed directly on the lenses and a fully manual mode.

[@doogster07]

Steve O'Nions thanks Steve! Love all of your videos and your work is truly inspiring!! In fact, I bought a Holga 120n after watching your seascape Holga and Pinhole video. Got some amazing shots the other day and fell in love with the square format 😀. Thanks again for all of your videos and stay safe!

[@SteveONions]

Chris Sesta Glad you’re enjoying the Holga Chris.

[@larseberhart]

Thank you for that great video! I have been considering filters for BW for a while, but never settled on a system. I use a orange screw-in on my FE2, but I want to get a holder system. I also use a Bronica SQ (with 80mm and 40mm). So, whatever I get, would need to fit those lenses, the lenses on my intrepid (smaller diameter than the Bronica SQ). And also whatever lens I use on my Nikons. The 14-24/2.8 might be an issue. Are there any recommendations?

[@SteveONions]

Hi Lars. Depending on which 40mm Bronica lens you use you’ll. need a pretty big filter. My PS 40 can just about work with 100mm square filters - just. All the other lenses you mention will be fine with 85mm square ones.

[@larseberhart]

@@SteveONions Thanks. I have the 40/4 S. I am considering the upgrade to the PS.