Finally Getting To Drive My Built KA24DE-T S14 After 4 Years!

[@alkennedy1124]

Ok I remember alittle trick , that is , with the engine warmed up, turn it off and pull plug wires , and just sit them in the holes , and start the engine, and hold the RPMs at the level of the rattling sound, and lift one plug wire at a time , if it is rods , you will hear a lack of rattling with plug wire off, then to the next one after you put the first wire back in it’s hole, just do one at a time, , your buddy that commented, has vlogs too, just hit his face on the channel his post comment and you can hear his rods knock, his turned out the be bent rods ,he changed his pistons and rods ,and it went away thanks BigAl,me

[@BuiltToBoost]

I’ve adjusted my timing table. My timing through the entire rpm range was off quite a bit. That will be the next test I do is to pull each coil to see if the noise goes away on a particular sensor. But my data shows knocks at every cylinder which is why I believe it is spark knock. Ok yea I just watched that video. His is knocking at a steady rpm. When I do that same thing mine isn’t knocking. Only on acceleration and under heavy load. We’ll see how it does with the new timing map. I have another video with it I’ll probably upload today

[@Audi0Surferz]

I hope you get to grips with this, looking forward to seeing you be able to rev it out! Not enough new KA-T content. Good luck!

[@BuiltToBoost]

Got another video coming real soon. I think I’ve got it figured out for the most part. We’ll have to see how it plays out! Thank you!!

[@alkennedy1124]

Hay wait, turn up your volume and lessen,you need thinker oil, I hear a rod , or two, ok you the knocks system,IS notAKnocking device, ), I know what I’m talking about, just a little too much clearance on the connecting rods, get a Tessa scope and listen 🎧 to it , ,remember,I’m the guy that hears my own blood flowing in my ears, it drive me nuts, lol thanks me. Give them huges from me

[@BuiltToBoost]

It’s spark knock. I need to get the timing dialed in. I thought it was rod knock as well but when I looked over my data logs it was detonation so that means timing is either too advanced or retarted through the RPM swing. That’s the tedious part of tuning is finding the sweet spot for timing and fuel as well as boost target. I’m running 20w-50 race oil and when I installed the new rods I used plasti gauge to make sure clearance was good on the rod bearings & caps. Was within 1 thousandth of the rod specifications so all good there. Yep I sure will!

[@alkennedy1124]

No it is not, I hear what I hear, and after 1000 years of hearing and hearing loss rods, I know the difference, there is preignition , but I know the difference and it is sizzling sound kinda, and tappits are more matalic and in the top , and rods are on deceleration of the acceleration, and that is what I’m nearing, you need to shut out all the external sound and hear the split second on Excelerator rattling , you know it’s like , some time on other cars, when they don’t change there oil ,and when you start those cars m they rattle on start up for a split second until the oil pressure comes up, that ,,is the same sound I’m hear ,,except it’s in running acceleration you can hear it for a split second, p.s. no engine has sounds like that ,,when properly built, I would not have and knocks system on anything any way, that out here is a smog thing, the timing is retarded, when it pre-ignites, that’s what it’s designed to do to pre burn the gas’s , and regenerate them back into the combustion chamber’s, ok just put some thicker oil , it might save it for a while , that’s all, a loss engine it a fast engine, but hammering rods will not hold up, cleevlite insert baerings are tougher than all others, and they works with alcohol, because alcohol will eat up normal inserts baerings, ok I’ve been there and I have seen it, and I know my sound ,I’m a professional engine man for year 50 year of my own and I have blown up a few of them , to much clearance,on those rods and wrist pens get too lose on my 383 stocker , back in the day, nothing, is new , it’s all the varysame concept , pistons rods and crack shaft, are all the same technology, just put some thicker oil thanks me.

[@alkennedy1124]

Ok I read your post, you do hear the small rattling on acceleration , ok take that knocks thing off if you can , I did not hear any preignition at all so I’m not sure about that , may a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer, just keep try to get rid of that rather, because if it is rods, it will show it self soon, ,you know what I mean, ! Thanks me.

[@alkennedy1124]

Get rid of rattling thar is what I ment to say.

[@BuiltToBoost]

I’ll have to fine tune the timing and see if the noise goes away. I know the clearance on the rod cap to bearing is tight. It was within 1 thousandth of the rod specifications. But what I think I’m hearing is on my cams. It’s a cam over bucket style head and I may need to shim the buckets 1 or 2 thousandths but first I’m gonna start with tuning the timing then go from there. Yea I’m running 20w-50 oil with a zinc additive since it is all forged internals.

[@Knownworldwide]

Just delete the knock sensor. They just make people afraid of the car.

[@BuiltToBoost]

Yea I did. We definitely got a low rpm knock on acceleration that I need to address this winter. Might make for some good content!

[@Knownworldwide]

@@BuiltToBoost What timing are you running now in the low RPMS?

[@BuiltToBoost]

@Knownworldwide I’ll have to look at the map later. Can’t remember off the top of my head

[@alkennedy1124]

You need to line bore the rod in a shop, and under size cleevlite insert Rod baerings, do it a save the engine, micrometer the crank shaft, make 100% percent it equal mesurments on all crank rod journals the mains too, you can not have unequal sizes, it’s plus or minus 2 thousand,max , and that is probably too much clearance, it should not be more the 1.5 too 2 thousand, on the rod’s, ok , if it’s not perfect,it will not hold up ok ,,and 2 thousand clearance will rattle the rods, like what I’m hearing , for now ,,,you need thinker oil, 50 weight, ok , for get all the others have told you , you will eventually find the difference in the correct noises that are bad,and the heights in th block top end and bottom end , , on this test drive I hear the sounds of loss rods when you came back in the yard and when you took off you can hear them on acceleration,that means the are hitting the bottom of the rods on the crank, so when you look at them in the weeks to come , the rod caps will show the damage, and the rods end will not show the wear ok have your phone with you , on test drives ok thanks me

[@BuiltToBoost]

I hear noise but that’s from the timing being off and creating spark knock. It’s the spark firing at the wrong time in the stroke causing pre detonations. I made sure to check clearance on all of the rod bearings when I assembled everything back together. Once I can get the timing tuned completely it’ll stop making any of that noise. The injectors are really loud as well and actually sounded like a knock to me when I first installed them. Had me worried so I shut the car off as fast as I could lol. Trust me I have been listening to every little noise like a mouse. The last thing I want to do is have to rebuild this engine again after all the time and money.