Finding Watch Bargains by Shoppig Movements: The Unitas/ETA 6498

Rather than shopping for watch brands, it’s easier to find great bargains by shopping for popular movements used by several watch companies.

[@kennethtape3362]

Once again 'Bill', thank you so much for keeping us 'engaged' and expanding upon the narrative and mysteries of watches :)

[@watchartsci]

Thanks Kenneth! Maybe we ought to start a 'roll your own' channel for those of us who want to start making watches we can afford... Kindest regards, Bill

[@paulwilson3434]

Great job 👏. Good news. Got my Regulator from - perpetual watch co. On advisement. Love it

[@watchartsci]

Great Paul! I wonder how many collectors actually have a regulator watch! I know of 2 ... you and me! Take care and have fun with your Perpetual Regulator, Bill

[@paulwilson3434]

Yes it’s really a dainty and formal little watch I can’t stop myself from wearing it all the time . A true gem of a watch . Thanks again Bill

[@JD-wx3pk]

I think you're very Intelligent, because If you go buy the movement, you can navigate your decisions better in terms of buying what's best for you and not getting ripped off. Years ago, I bought an Gruen precision with I regret selling to this day. I've since bought an restored Omega which has grown on me, it's not about monetary value with the Omega, it's apart of me and symbolises a transition in my life I'm proud of. I've found a Unitas which I'm purchasing and I think it has one of those movements you've articulated. It's got a lovely patina to it. Can't wait to get my that on my wrist. I'm happy to load up a video of it for you and send you the link. I'm also in the process of getting a very old Gruin guild which I will put money aside to restore. It has those beautiful blue hands. My like for these amazing watches comes from my great grandfather who used to be a watchmaker. Thanks for sharing.

[@watchartsci]

I agree JD, and I've been thinking of a Breguet from the Daniel Roth era in the 80's.Take care, Bill

[@JD-wx3pk]

@@watchartsci nice bill, I'll keep an eye out for those. You too mate, thanks

[@robertmueller3267]

Thank you so much for your research into this topic! Helps demystify watchmaking and is historically fascinating!

[@watchartsci]

Hey Robert, it's my pleasure! Cheers, Bill

[@burkholdst.rudderberg3574]

I love you like a brother Bill, but your are educating the very people I buy watches from. It is going to be harder to buy a Unitas 6498 from people who now know where they can be found! The Unitas 6498 is a great and popular movement, and I buy every one I can find at a reasonable price. You are such a positive influence on the watch community that I fear the price on the Unitas movements will skyrocket! I used to buy Universal Geneve Microtors,but they got popular and expensive. The Bulova Accutron 214 got popular; and so did the Vulcain! It is getting hard to buy a good watch at a reasonable price ( it is hard to make a buck when re-selling )! I guess I will now have to focus on Atlantic, West End Watch, and Zeno Watch Basel while they are still under the RADAR! Love the shirt; is it a Kahala?

[@watchartsci]

Fortunately Burkhold, most watch collectors are too busy paying attention to re-sale value and saving up for "name" watches to bother with finding out about some really good watches, but since all of the bargain-priced Parmigianis and H. Mosers seem to be drying up, you may have a point. (Listen everybody! Don't listen to me!) I hope that helps. Cheers, Bill

[@burkholdst.rudderberg3574]

You are right! Sometimes I wish we could go back to the days before the internet when you could buy a watch for a song; the days when the seller was not as educated to the value of their watch like most collectors are today. " It will set me back, but I can give you $95.00 for your Reverso Duo" .

[@logotrikes]

Hi Bill, enjoy your videos. My old dad was a home based watch and clock repairer. He tried to get me interested but I preferred chasing girls. He's long gone now and I wish now I'd learned from him. I'm 72 myself and have been fascinated by the damn things for years. I have many, mostly half-decent fakes and some real ones. A different one for every day if I choose. I probably could build one as you describe, but maybe not. Another trip to Bali from Australia where I am and a visit to Bagas Watch. Decent fakes for decent prices. I have no issue about wearing a fake, and if folks ask I'll tell them it's a Bali special, correct twice a day. I guess I'm just a philistine, but I enjoy any opportunity to learn....

[@watchartsci]

Hi Martoon, I wonder if you can get a decent movement in those fakes? I've used both Chinese ST36xx for ETA 6497/8 and I've got a couple of others I'm working from ETA and Chinese movements. The case, dial and hands I pick up here and there, but the fakes come with all the parts. What would be cool is to sand off the fake logos, cook up an enamel dial face, add lettering and then you have a genuine 'Martoon!' Keep me up to speed on your projects! Cheers, Bill

[@logotrikes]

@@watchartsci Thanks Bill. I had to laugh. "genuine Martoon". You can guess my real name. Coincidentally I've been watching videos about creating ones own brand by this method and having my own logo. They'll do it for a few hundred copies, but she who must be obeyed would pounce on me from a great height - another scatterbrained scheme of mine. She prefers cruising, and from Fremantle Bali is a popular destination. We just returned a couple of weeks ago and I picked up a half decent Longines for AUD50. She doesn't mind that so much because she goes to town on shoes and it all works out. She knows I'm watch mad... If I do go any further I'll let you know, but meanwhile I'm subscribed. You commentary style is most enjoyable...While I think about it, the only way I'd get any indication of the quality of a fake movement is with an exhibition back, and I'm not sure I know anywhere near enough about them to tell. See, I should have listened to my old dad. I did ask him years later why he didn't do more to teach me, and his reply, quite reasonably, was that I didn't show any interest. He learned watch repairing in a sheltered workshop during the war; being a lifelong invalid he was of course exempted war work so he was taught a skill. He met my mother there, and the rest is history. We won, apparently...

[@desmobc]

I love the ETA 6498. Solid work horse that looks great and you know that it can be serviced anywhere. Silky smooth hand wind that always leaves me satisfied.

[@watchartsci]

Same here Desmo, but I've been using ST 36xx the SeaGull versions because they're cheaper and at the rate I break movements, it's a lot less expensive! Take care and be safe, Bill 😷

[@GrahamLeach]

Enjoyed the video very much once you start talking. Thanks for the survey of all the watches using a common movement. Many people do not understand the separation of duties in watch production, much as they don't now know that car brands used to also mix and match engine, carriage work and frame suppliers in the early days. An interesting video would be to outline that separation, and that the over-concentration of today is an exception, not the norm.

[@watchartsci]

Boy! Graham, you don't hand out easy tasks! The établissage system of yore is still used by some top watchmakers (such as Daniel Roth), but that's a far cry from companies that buy entire movement or ébauche kits but have no plans nor skills to use any more granular systems. Take care and stay safe, Bill😷

[@GrahamLeach]

@@watchartsci I remember reading a little about the établissage system when I was a young man in the 1980's and went to 2nd hand shops to find mechanical watches. Oh, if I only knew then what I know now! Back then a "watch" to me was a pretty object that told the time, and it came as quite a surprise to find out that a watch could be a constellation of parts made by an army of different suppliers. It really opened my eyes. But I was really talking here about the separation of finished movements and custom cases, like at www.ofrei.com/page460.html, which looks like a neat place to go if you want to build you own semi-custom piece (NO commercial relationship, just found it randomly).

[@andrewfishkin6559]

I love the Unitas based watches (just ordered a 6497-based Weiss), but also the smaller Peseux 7001, which fits in smaller watches and is also quite attractive to look at, runs at a slower beat rate and is absolutely reliable. I have one in a Vertex M100 (unfortunately hidden behind a solid, though very nice case back) and it has run consistently at -1 second per day for the 14 months I’ve owned it.

[@watchartsci]

Hey Andrew, yes, I too like those classic movements, especially the 6497/8-1 with the 18,000 so/hr frequency. Easier on the parts and longer intervals between service. Take care, Bill

[@rasherbilbo452]

Good vid. Somewhat bizarre WOW video, felt like a funeral for a watch. Enjoyed as always.

[@watchartsci]

Thanks Rasher. Which watch was the 'dearly departed?' Cheers, Bill

[@fossilimprint2954]

Happy to have found your channel, very useful content. Subscribed !

[@watchartsci]

Welcome aboard, Fossil! glad you could join us. Take care, Bill

[@rarts2000]

I always go for budget, movement and looks,.As always very interesting video Bill, really informative how the same movement goes from a couple of hundreds to thousands depending of several factors or modifications, thanks

[@watchartsci]

Hi Rafael, thanks man! Of course one "factor" is that that think they can get away with charging higher prices.... ; >) Cheers Bill

[@asisreyes6161]

Very informative video about the ETA 6498 movement and watches. It would be great if you could make a video about buying watches based on the caliber Peseux 7001. Keep up the good work!

[@watchartsci]

The problem, Asis, is that watchmakers often don't tell the truth about what's in their watches. The Peseux/ETA 7001 is probably in lots of watches, but finding out which ones is a long task...here's a quick list, but there're lots more watchbase.com/eta/caliber/7001. Take care and be safe, Bill 😷

[@jakubpitucha5905]

Hello sir, I just found your youtube yesterday browsing internet for some information abou how hacking works. Now I have found myself watching like 10th video in a row and I don' have enough. :)) It is so entertaining and interesting. Keep up the wonderful work you do here on youtube and I wish you a good luck from Czech Republic!

[@watchartsci]

Welcome to WatchArtSci Jakub! Several years ago I visited your beautiful country and enjoyed my stay there immensely! Take care, Bill

[@AbdulRWatches]

Thanks Bill for the great video, and a really interesting topic. I think Nomos Alpha movement looks very similar also to this one. I really like the Lemania 5100 for chronographs, and it is in many cool chronographs. I think complication watches from unknown makers or companies that cease to exists anymore, with very good movements are to have for a bargain.

[@watchartsci]

Hi Abdul, I agree. If you go looking for quality in the movement, you'll usually find it in the rest of the watch....and probably save money over slavery to a brand. Cheers, Bill

[@Bad_Rattle]

I just received my Zelo Skyraider and it has a very nicely done ETA 6498. It’s a very impress piece for the price.

[@watchartsci]

Hey Bad Rattle, congratulations! Of the 6 models of the Zelos Skyraider; three are sold out! Which one did you get? They look like great buys, and the Unitas/ETA 6498 is among my favorite standard movements. I like the one with the blue dial in titanium. Also, I noticed that they use the ETA 6498-1 instead of the -2. I much prefer the -1 running at 2 1/2 HZ (18,000) and so too do the top master watchmakers. (kzbin.info/www/bejne/hImcp4SIeMSbnpY) You got a very nice timepiece! Cheers, Bill

[@Bad_Rattle]

WatchArtSci I picked up the bronze with blue dial

[@thang1011]

Thanks for the video, i have the Laco CUXHAVEN from ebay, mint condition for less than 550 usd after watching this video. Really like movement and the watch.

[@watchartsci]

Laco has some very interesting watches Thang. How do you like your's so far? Take care and be safe, Bill 😷

[@thang1011]

@@watchartsci it is a simple watch with good attention to details. I guess it is typical German characteristics. It would like it to be a little bit small (40-41mm would be ideal). The best thing about this watch is the mannual winding, i just love the feel and the sound of winding the watch.

[@michaellipkin9430]

There is a 6428. apparently a special for the military. Zeno watch Basel have a couple of watches with it. The story is that a batch of unused 6428s were found in a warehouse and they refurbished them. It looks like the small seconds axis is nearer the centre than the 6498 and they have put in a teeny tiny small seconds dial leaving the outer numbers uninterrupted.

[@watchartsci]

Thanks for that analysis Michael! Take care, Bill

[@crappyluxurypdx]

Excellent video. I really like the $995 Tissot. It's at Jomashop for just over $600.

[@watchartsci]

Hey CW, that's even better!! Kindest regards, Bill

[@erne75]

A lot of Panerais use the 6497-1. Panerai calibesr OP I, OP II, OP X, OP XI and OP XXIX are all based on the 6497-1

[@watchartsci]

Thanks for that information erne75! Apparently, they're replacing the ETA 6497-1 with the P. 6000. Cheers, Bill

[@erne75]

Yes. For me though, the P.5000 is a more interesting caliber with its 8 days power reserve. The P.6000 is only 3 days...

[@billcosgrave6232]

Interesting video especially considering the price differences between the watches.

[@watchartsci]

Hi Bill, yes indeed! The prices ranged from around $400 to over $5,000. That's why it's important to know something about the movement in a watch and what real improvements they've made...or claim to have made. Cheers, Bill

[@joshuagutierrez335]

Bill, I hate to break it to you, but you've got the placement of the small seconds subdial on the ETA/Unitas 6498 upside-down. If you flip the watch over with the crown on the right as you've done here, the small seconds subdial is due North, not South.

[@watchartsci]

Oh no Josh!🙃 Not again! Solution: To watch this video, I encourage the viewer to stand on his head. Take care, Bill

[@medgasguy]

Fantastic video, sometimes you can pick up a deal on an Eterna cal. 3030 in their Vaughan Big Date line.

[@watchartsci]

Hey Madasguy, that's a great idea and place to looki Take care, Bill.

[@cosmalas7742]

Made my own pilot watch with a clone of the same movement. It even had the Geneva waves and blue screws. £40 for the movement, keeps good time, very happy. I may at some point swop the movement out for an ETA, I'll see how we go

[@cosmalas7742]

Also.... movement has a swan neck regulator!

[@watchartsci]

Congratulations, Cos! I recently finished the "Military Project" watch (which is probably similar to your Pilots watch.) Assembling my own watches has made me appreciate those with in-house movements more; and those without, less. Kindest regards, Bill

[@washingtonfootballfanwgil8392]

Hey Bill, I was going to ask about the Tissot that is due out in September but, it seems the real bargain is in the Glycine. I just checked on the Glycine: it's a 48mm case. Too much for my skinny wrist!

[@watchartsci]

Hey RP, that may be the way to go. I guess it depends on the case and the rest of the materials. You make a good point! Cheers, Bill

[@derekgulec147]

Stowa Marine looks awesome plus Swan neck regulator.

[@watchartsci]

Hey Derek, good catch! I didn't notice that. I wonder what the Stowa Marines are selling for...what the front looks like. Can you find one and send the link? Cheers, Bill

[@derekgulec147]

WatchArtSci Hi Bill, watch inspired by ship tool named Marine Chronometer. Like Flieger other German brands using similar design with same movement. But for me Stowa offering best value. Nicely decorated movement, heat treated blue hands and Swan Neck regulator. Pictures don't do it justice, so this video really helpful. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hpDFaH6he7WIhJI

[@watchartsci]

Derek, very cool! I like the onion-crown and the way the watch perfectly fits around the movement. Thanks, Bill

[@24KArabiaFelix]

I think the best way to find a bargains is to find an AD who is shutting down or has shutdown and buying his old stock you can get up to 85% off the original retail price.

[@watchartsci]

Yes! ...however...the problem is finding one in your town. Nevertheless, thanks for the 24k tip! Cheers, Bill

[@watchartsci]

Why didn't you tell me at the time?!! Whine...

[@simonmontoni5355]

I bought an used Laco Navy 44mm with a 6497-1, awesome movement, so reliable, so nice to see though the case.

[@watchartsci]

Hi Simon, the 6497-1 has the 2.5Hz movement which is the same as the top independent watchmakers use ... rather than the 4Hz. I've made a few watches with the 6497/8. Great movement.Take care Bill

[@simonmontoni5355]

@@watchartsci thank you Sr

[@robertotorres6391]

Thanks

[@leestrada1]

MB&F is my dream! I cannot afford one, but that watch is art, science, philosophy, amazing!

[@watchartsci]

Every now and then an MB&F comes along that's "affordable..." relatively speaking... Cheers, Bill

[@andrewrg]

Would be great to hear about the Peseux/ETA 7001

[@watchartsci]

Not a bad thought Andrew. Anything in particular about the 7001 you have in mind? Take care, Bill

[@andrewrg]

@@watchartsci hey thanks for the reply! Hmm maybe the history, specs and usage in other watches? It’s pretty thin and a good movement I think. Peseux seems like an interesting manufacturer too. I just got a Weiss Field Watch with the 7001 and the owner assembles and finishes them himself. He’s a nice guy and watchmaker who used to work for a few high profile brands too.

[@altonriggs2352]

Bill...would you consider a video naming the ultimate hand wound movement on these criteria...clean design..ease of service..durability..accuracy..disregarding price and precious metals? Just a thought..thanks

[@watchartsci]

Hi Alton, not a bad idea, but to some extent these show up in the other videos that have a movement that's both hand-wound and interesting...like the Vacheron Constantin 4400. Initially, it was in my Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921, but I've noticed that they've been using it in a lot of different models lately. It's a good solid movement (that takes forever to wind!), but it's just in VC watches as far as I know. Take care, Bill

[@j.r.regenold9094]

Hi Bill --- good show ... coincidence, I had just gotten my Meistersinger back from service and today was first day on the wrist.

[@watchartsci]

Hey J.R.! Do you have your Meistersinger serviced locally or do you have to send it away? Great to hear from you! Cheers, Bill

[@Genegenedtb]

at one point I was infatuated with chronographs and learned about the Valjoux 7750. Then I found it in very expensive watches that were more than I wanted to pay so I did as you say here and shopped for watches with that movement and found some nice looking watches for "reasonable" prices. Thanks for the tips on these movements. ( PS: why do you keep looking over your right shoulder? I keep thinking you are nervous about a home invader or something..lol )

[@watchartsci]

Hi Gene, I'm infatuated with Regulators now, and like you I've found that seeking by movement I can find the best deal. Over my right shoulder is where the images appear and I make references to them. (....of course that and checking for boogey men...) Cheers, Bill

[@Genegenedtb]

which regulators are you interested in Bill? not that I need to be interested in any new watches but what the heck, it's only money. I remain, Hooked on the Beat. ( I did get the feeling that there was a boogey man around there somewhere...)

[@watchartsci]

Well, a Regulator represents an interesting dial connected to a movement that also handles small seconds an center seconds. So since I don't have a regulator, it's on my radar as I save for a Lang & Heyne... Cheers, Bill

[@algorithm007ify]

Bill if you ever have time and are running out of content, I would love for you to do videos on brands..one video per brand whereby you cover the history and some key models...(including both entry and haute horological pieces, if they have any). You have some videos already like this, which I really enjoyed watching btw. :) To touch back on the Panerai topic, a lot of their in-house movements run at 21,600 bph, including the P.999, P.3000, P.5000, P.6000 calibre. The P.6000 you referred to is really a slightly upgraded Unitas movement...(greater power reserve and dual anchor bridge for the balance wheel)

[@watchartsci]

The whole issue of who's making P.6000 gets deep quickly. Their 'in-house' movement is most likely made by Valfleurier ( fleurier.ch/nos-marques-horlogeres/article/manufacture-horlogere-valfleurier-branch-of-richemont-international-sa ) and not Panerai’s watchmaking Manufacture in Neuchâtel, Since Richemont owns both it's still 'sort-of-in-house' but look carefully at the link-whatever could be the connection with Bovet and Parmigiani? Cheers, Bill

[@algorithm007ify]

Yes, I think Valfleurier make most of their movements, if I am not mistaken! That's not necessarily a bad thing. Kind of like the relationship between Vaucher and Parmigiani (perhaps not as vertically integrated, though)... Speaking of in-house movements, have you heard that the new Tudor Pepsi GMTs are having date wheel issues?

[@watchartsci]

Oh no! I didn't know that. I really like the Tudor Heritage Pepsi GMT; very well priced. Hope they get it fixed. Thanks, Bill

[@tundetwasvordemk5345]

The screws are NOT heattreated as you can see on the slit. They are coloured chemically.

[@tundetwasvordemk5345]

Real heat treated blue screws are BLUE indeed, from top to bottom.

[@watchartsci]

Hey, t und etwas vor dem k, that was what I thought when I first saw them; but in fact they are heat-blued. Check out this article with the same pictures of the movement: watchesbysjx.com/2015/02/explained-how-to-blue-steel-screws-the-traditional-way-with-a-flame-and-lots-of-patience.html Cheers, Bill

[@watchartsci]

Read the article. They use real heat...there are more and less expensive ways to do it, and the less expensive leaves grooves opened.

[@tundetwasvordemk5345]

WatchArtSci nope, sorry. It is a scam. "Chemically blued screws usually have a flat appearance without any character or depth. This is an example of a blued screw from a mass produced movement:" I am a watchmaker and a properly heat treated screw, in traditional working matters is blue in its slit. A unitas screw as shown above never ever has been blued due to heat treatment. It is a chemical process. ;-)

[@watchartsci]

So T Und, you're saying the article is wrong? Or were the screws blued before the slit was added? Or is it an inexpensive bluing process using heat? You're saying No; the only bluing with that outcome is chemical. Why would the slit remain unglued using a chemical any more than it would with a heating process? Thanks, and I have a great deal of respect for watchmakers. Cheers, Bill

[@kennethiman2691]

As with high end audio, a lot of it is smoke and mirrors.

[@watchartsci]

Kenneth, like high end audio, the more you know about the watch, the better able you are to get though the smoke and mirrors. What's a good audio headset?(Over the ears) Take care and be Safe, Bill😷

[@patbackus7668]

Hey Bill , haven’t watched the whole blog yet , but wasn’t the reason for the turbillon made for the transition from pocket watch to wrist watch ? Or was the Turbillon made for pocket watches to help them keep better time ? And also I’ve heard Tourbillon’s are basically obsolete? Not really needed , yet if you see a watch for sale with one the price is absolutely ridiculous, if they aren’t actually needed and really have not that much effect on the accuracy of watches anymore, then why are people willing to pay sometimes hundreds of thousands more for a watch because it has a tourbillon ? Because they are pretty to look at ? And what can you tell me about the Lemania 2310 movement? I’ve heard that was the movement in the watch that went to the moon , the Omega? And I heard you don’t like anything other than metal in a movement, I’m with you on that , except for what Rolex did with their mainspring, you mentioned it in a blog , but I can’t remember what you said , but what this does in the Rolex is make it last longer and it is not effected by magnetic field’s , so I’m guessing it is probably in their newer Milgauss , and are you ok with that ? I think in the Omega movement there are actually plastic parts ? Have yourself a nice day Bill ,

[@watchartsci]

Hey Pat, not sure what you heard, but you can see exactly what I've said in the videos. The tourbillon was invented by Breguet to reduce the disruption in timekeeping in a moving timepiece. It didn't exactly work, but now it's considered a 'challenge' by watchmakers to show they have the skills to create one. Some claim the newer versions do in-fact work, but I'd rather have a watch with a remontoir d'egalité that does work to keep constant speed. (Expensive....though like a tourbillon). Also, a tourbillon adds a great deal to the service cost; so it's expensive in both service and purchase. Not a big fan of silicon in mechanical watches; that is correct. I get all the silicon I want in my iPhone. Would rather see creative use of metals like H. Moser et Cie did in developing a hairspring from niobium and titanium. Unlike those make with silicon, the non-magnetic metal ones can be adjusted by the watchmaker. As for the Lemania 2310-not sure what I can say. It is an excellent movement, and in fact it's so good, that it's been re-introduced in the Omega line of Speedmasters ( www.revolution.watch/omega-speedmaster-reintroduces-the-original-moonwatch-movement-the-calibre-321/ ) As for plastic and ceramic parts, not something I've been looking at; so I wouldn't know any more than you do Pat. Kindest regards, Bill

[@roberthousedorfii1743]

Hey Bill, hope you see this. I am still very new to watches. HOW do I shop by movement? Please share your methods of research?

[@watchartsci]

Hi Robert, the first thing you have to do is to decide which movement you'd like to find. I happen to like the Unitas/ETA 6497/8-1-the only difference being the '97 has the small seconds at 9 o'clock and the '98 has them at 6 o'clock. 1. Go to WatchBase.com and click on 'Calibers by Brand' in the top menu bar. 2. Select the movement maker first by first initial - for example 'E' and then find 'ETA' 3. Find the movement number you want (e.g., 6498-1) and click it. 4. At the bottom on the page, you will see a list of watches that use that caliber. ~Not all watches that use a given movement are listed. In part, that's because a lot of watch companies don't want the buyer to know that they've used an inexpensive (relatively) movement and charge a lot of money for the movement used in watches charging a fraction of the price. For example, look at all the watches using the ETA 7750 (Valjoux 7750) ... then check out Breitling caliber 13B. You will find it's based on the ETA 7750 and priced at $6,250, but a Hamilton Khaki Field Auto Chrono with a caliber H1 (also an ETA 7750) is $1,695. ~Of course you can go the other way and check out in-house movements or higher quality movements like Vaucher. It's a never-ending learning process. Cheers, Bill

[@f2mel2]

I could have bought a watch with this movement for under $279 but I was unfamiliar with the movement or the brand. I think it was La Valie?? Did I blow it?

[@watchartsci]

No, F2, you can find deals with the 6498 ... just keep looking. Here's a good place to start: watchbase.com/eta/caliber/6498-1 Cheers, Bill

[@Bashirbros]

How can I make a watch that's good for at least 100m? what kind of results would I get if I just use a case back gasket with silicone grease, a waterproof crown, and maybe add some glue around the crystal?

[@watchartsci]

Hi Musa, that's a really great question, and it sounds like you may already know more about it than I do. Why not check with some case-makers and see if they have some suggestions. Any suggestions from me may lead to a flooded watch! Kindest regards, Bill

[@Lakewooder99]

Bill, quick question. As a young boy in the late 70 i was reading a travel almanac for Switzerland. To give an idea of the time period it mentioned manual and automatic watches but that you may want to look into a new technology quartz. As far as rankings it said Level 1 patek and vacheron with AP a little behind. Then Rolex and Piaget as sort of level 1a. Then omega, IWC and baume and merciar as level 2. Then a bunch of brands I cant remember as level 3. Was this almanac completely wrong for that period?

[@watchartsci]

Hi Lakewooder, that sounds about right. It was before the marketing concept of 'High Horology' and the full impact of the Quartz Crisis. Patek was making their own quartz movements and independents were far more common in that pre-Swatch, pre-Richemont era. The ranking was centered around developments at that time. Kindest regards, Bill

[@gregorris8165]

What do you think of the Tissot T complication Skeleton watch? Thanks.

[@watchartsci]

Not crazy about Skeletons Greg...probably stuffing silicon hairsprings in the new ones. Now the Tissot Heritage Petite Seconde... that's an affordable Tissot for practice in watch adjustments. Take care, Bill.

[@sw8398]

Hi Bill, Im in Aberdeen, i have 14 unitas Eta 14 6498 movements, 10 working, 4 not, but all complete, collected over the years, mainly from pocket watches, im selling as one lot, all 14, are you interested?

[@watchartsci]

Not 14 SW, but if you posted them on the 'Pretentious Watchmaker' FB page, you'd likely find someone who would. Take care, Bil

[@sw8398]

@@watchartsci thx Bill I think I'd have to have Facebook for that, but I don't, thx anyway for the reply

[@nrs6956]

What is your opinion of "inhouse movements." Reference like Heure has caliber 11, 12, and 13? What are these? Are they their own specials?

[@watchartsci]

Hi NS. The 11 and 12 are Sellita-based movements and the 16 is ETA-based. (I don't know if they still make the 13...if they ever did.) So I don't think much of TAG Heuer for not doing more for real innovation and in-house movement R&D. Kindest regards, Bill

[@nrs6956]

Thank you.

[@slagsleutel]

inspiring !

[@watchartsci]

Hey Sealy, thanks man! Cheers, Bill

[@rezasoheil]

Beautiful review , I really like to know your idea about Tudor 5216 movement that Brietling also uses it.

[@watchartsci]

Reza, do you mean the caliber MT5813 that was co-developed with Breitling? Thanks, Bill

[@rezasoheil]

@@watchartsci You are correct 5612 and 5813 are the two , Thanks

[@jaymcleran7822]

Great Video Bill I am just getting into making watches and I appreciated all the comments in the video. One question that I have for you is can you get the 6498 watch movement in different sizes??

[@watchartsci]

Not that I know of Jay. There are the -1 and -2 versions, the former 2.5Hz and the latter 3Hz, but that's all I've seen. Take care and stay safe, Bill 😷

[@EdoardoDeLarge]

Anyone know if I could find a watch with 37/38mm case with a 6498 in it?

[@watchartsci]

Edoardo, the 6498 has the following dimensions: -16 lignes ½ ‴ -Diameter 36,60 mm -Height 4,50 mm A 40mm has a clearance of only 2mm on each side, and a 38 would be less than 2mm for the side of the case; so I don't think you'll find a case smaller than 40mm for a 6498 movement. By the way to check out 'eta.com' ... they have all the dimensions of their movements. Take care and be safe, Bill 😷

[@EdoardoDeLarge]

@@watchartsci Thanks a lot Bill!

[@jackwakeman148]

This is probably the farthest from your intention, but what you're saying is that most of these high-priced Swiss Made brands are a scam: imagine a movement they get for as low as $100 they incorporate into their watches which they then sell for more than a thousand bucks! If that's not a bare-faced, money-grubbing scam to you, I don't know what is.

[@meson183]

Ah. But is it? Is it really? You're forgetting all the other materials, fabrication costs, design, finishing, plus a reasonable markup to the distributor and a further markup for the retailer. And the more highly skilled labour that is involved, the more it jacks up the costs. The cost in a timepiece is not solely the cost of the movement. And many of these watchmakers aren't just shoving the blank ebauches straight into a case. The are dismantling them, refinishing them, sometimes fabricating their own parts to replace in the movement or otherwise adapting it in some way to change or extend it's functionality. On top of that, the market for these watches is small. These manufacturers aren't going to be selling thousands or even hundreds. So the scope to recoup the costs and overheads and make some sort of profit is much more limited than for the typical mass manufactured products that we are so used to in other walks of life. So I disagree, for the most part it is not a scam. That's not to say that some watch houses don't take liberties when they find they are onto a good thing, but I don't think that happens as much as you may think.

[@erne75]

Sorry Jack but your ignorance is showing. The act of designing, manufacturing, assembling, marketing and selling a product is totally unrelated to the cost of its constituent parts.

[@watchartsci]

Hi Jack and Meson1 ... Take IWC for instance. They advertise 79350 Calibre in their Portugugieser Chronographs. They range from $7,300 to $28,700. If you pay that kind of money for a watch, you'd want to know what movement they use? No? They use an ETA 7750. Instead of getting any kind of IWC in that price range, I could get an Habring2 Rattrapante (low) or Friedrich III from Lang & Heyne (high)-both are created by world class watchmakers in Richard Habring and Marco Lang. Why would I buy anything from IWC that hides the movement and yet charges what I can get from classic watchmakers for the same price? Cheers, Bill

[@watchartsci]

erne75; no name-calling. That just makes the name-caller look ignorant. Now, you bring up a good point: cost of components vs. productions / marketing costs. If the cost of components are cheap, why not just make your own? (i.e., in-house?) Cheers, Bill

[@camcad1001]

Do you know where I can find a case for an eta 7001 movement? Currently building

[@watchartsci]

Hi Cameron, I once had a watch with a solid gold 40mm case and an ETA 7001 movement. The standard Peseux 7001 (Now ETA) is 23.30 mm ( see www.eta.ch/en/our-products/mechanical-movements/mecaline-specialities/eta-mecaline-specialities-7001 ), and so just about any case from about 30mm upwards can encase the 7001. I'd suggest you decide what case size would best fit your wrist and you should be ok. The 7001 is considered "extra flat" (ultra-thin) so the height of 2.5mm should not be difficult to fit either. Take care and be safe, Bill😷

[@wakawaka1976]

I can see why higher end companies make their own movements... this is like the seagull movement you can get fir $50 nowadays. I can get a $200 watch with the same movement not dolled up. Not sure those other watches are thousands of dollars fancier.

[@watchartsci]

You have a point Wakawaka! Why indeed? Take care and stay safe, Bill 😷

[@ForbinColossus]

Production Suggestion: 1 minute and 10 seconds of intro music is 1 minute too long! Electronic music 'litters' so many videos today that it's become a cliche. (Please dont succumb to the 'ArchieLux' disease of 'padded' videos). A mere ten seconds of intro is plenty. My 2cents. Love ya, Bill!

[@rudi6127]

I’m sure it could be shortened, it’s an easy fix I think. I’m not an expert but anything is possible.

[@hjalkhhjalkh]

hahahahahaha