Finger Injuries in Climbers | Lattice Training X Sheffield Climbing Clinic - Part 2

[@borikenclimbing]

Literally yesterday I got injured pulling myself with a two finger pocket. Thanks to this video I can say that its definitely a flexor tendon strain. Thank you for this.

[@BoulderingHighlights]

i hate pockets!

[@njun9951]

Well, it is nice to hear somebody finally talking about collateral ligament injuries. There's almost zero resources (only ever found one very basic one from The Climbing Doctor). What I would have liked are some proper rehab suggestions. Not climbing or taping it just allows it to heal, which is a fine first step. I find the issue comes back again and again and I'd love to find a real long-term fix.

[@jawsrocks7509]

Very helpful.. I recently got my first finger injury ever and I assumed it was A3 pulley because it hurts to put pressure on that spot. Definitely hurts wayy more in open hand and goes down my forearm where crimping feels fine. I believe it’s a flexor tendon strain now.

[@BottroperEistee]

When you got to the part with the lumbricals my whole body started cringing because the description of the pain was exactly as I experienced my injury. I got it in a two finger pocket last November, in conjunction with overuse of the whole passive structure due to almost exclusive use of the half crimp. It got better quickly, but then turned into some kind of inflammation/strain/overuse combination that spread over my ring and middle finger, hand and wrist. It kept me from climbing for a solid 5 month and its still not fully healed. My new coach instructed me to practice open hand (heck, how does that work????) and the 4 finger open hand is pain free but fucking weak. 3 finger drag only works with the pinky extended, when I curl it my hand and ringer finger start hurting. Weird, that it took me 7 month to watch a video about this. Really helpful!

[@parkboy]

I think I got a lumbrical injury during a 3 finger drag when I missed the hold I was going for with my other hand. On the video, I can see it happened right as my pinky finger curled. Pain all the way down into my forearm. Few days later and I can feel the muscle in hand is sore when massaged. Will probably buddy tape when I start climbing in a few weeks.

[@baumstanz]

The first one was spot on! Thanks for the insight!

[@paulojacobsilva3018]

I've had surgical reconstruction done to my 3rd finger. Funny enough the lesion was not a climbing injury but a work accident with a very heavy object. The reconstructed finger is fine. I've had a suspected collateral injury at the PIP joint for about 5 years. Even when I am not climbing it flairs up. It really hurts. I will get it checked by an MD soon - let's see.

[@samnicklen2942]

informative, clear and entertaining. another pukka piece of content :) thanks gang

[@jhy8191]

I would love if you could get James back to talk about osteoarthritis in fingers and some methods to deal with it! Speaking of uncommon finger injuries year somehow managed to strain my extensor tendon in my left middle finger bouldering last year 😅It didn't take long to heal but thought that was a weird one!

[@LatticeTraining]

We’re going to be doing some extra stuff with James this year, so keep an eye out!

[@rotamrofsnart]

I could not keep climbing with a collateral ligament injury in my middle finger. I tried, but after a few months it still didn't go away. Only after 7-8 weeks of complete rest (no more than 1-2 kg load on that finger) I could slowly start strengthening it and climb again.

[@Doooox17]

Very useful, thank you!

[@die_hertz]

Also noticed that collateral ligament injury doesn't play well with open-handed and passive grips

[@larryseibold4287]

I would really like to better understand how to gradually increase the flexibility of my two middle fingers (middle and ring). Every year they are less and less flexible as seen in a first tight joint tendon slide warm up.

[@thibault5820]

I injured myself few days ago from halfcrimping (not hard actually). I have pain below the pinky, in the palm of the hand, but only when I try to close the pinky while keeping the finger next to it straight. I didn't recognized my case in the video (or I don't know if it is a flexor tendon strain)... Would you be able to give some indications about what it could be? Btw, I have done a radiologie and an echographie and both showed nothing anormal

[@DenisPausic]

any videos about tennis elbow or lateral epicondylalgia injury planned?

[@eugeniov5783]

My good old friend Tino Synovitis..

[@woodneni]

Im with those collateral injury in my middle finger about an month and a half... Now its getting better... Just now... My middle finger looks like a big sausage... Heheheh

[@laurinegallay9858]

I have had a tenosynovitis for 4 months on the middle finger and it created corn/hardening a bit thick inside the finger on top of the tendon. Although the tenosynovitis is cured and there isn't any bother whilst climbing, is there a way to quit this corn/hardening?

[@mf-gu1jl]

And has it gone away by now? I have the same, tenosynovitis and this hardening for a few weeks now. What exercises /treatments have you done to get rid of the tenosynovitis/hardening?

[@laurinegallay9858]

@@mf-gu1jl yes completely cured now, I realised later on that this hardening was actually a little kyste of inflammatory liquid. I tried every kind of treatments and what worked for me was to reduce the climbing load and avoid completely any hold/movement which caused pain. I also applied ice after climbing and massage the finger with anti inflammatory essential oil. Hope it can help you!

[@RhysClark97]

Got my first injury, was a ligament on my ring finger based on what you described in the video, is it still ok to climb within the next weak or is it better to take a break from climbing?

[@dlpvapor919]

Thanks for info, what is the injury called when fingerboarding for a long time and you get a numb index finger, getting a nerve tingly feeling like its damaged, I've been supplementing on B12 and recovered well.

[@TheXeeman]

does anyone get these red bruising right at the base of their fingernail after crimping? I'm not talking about bruising underneath the fingernail itself, but bruising right under the nail on the skin, where the nail attaches itself to the finger.

[@DeadAnubis]

When I crimp hard, normally I have some blood trickling and skin tearing from there. When it's not from rock scraping against the skin I always assumed that are my smaller than usual blood vases dilating and bursting. Personal experience... I may be speaking completely nonsense.

[@vengal6251]

Audio is a Bit worse isn’t it?

[@LatticeTraining]

Unfortunately, Tom’s mic malfunctioned during filming and we didn’t realise 🙈

[@jonahtemianka1693]

Why is Jame's outfit so good lmao??? mans pulled up lookin like a snack

[@michaelmorrell914]

Nom nom

[@alexandrerbl]

👏👏👏👏

[@AirborneLRRP]

Dude you guys should use AI to remove the echo-portion of this audio. I'm sure you've heard a million times that audio is one of the most important features for people to watch your vids - and this is a perfect example. I'm going to watch bc I respect you and care about what you have to say, but this audio is attrocious. If AI can render my voice for unlimited speech by just a few data points, I'm sure it can clean up this audio. Thank you.

[@alexandragloth2483]

James looks a bit as if you were holding him hostage

[@hyau23]

What's wrong with Tom's audio? Did he do a voice over in a bin?

[@LatticeTraining]

Awwwww. Poor Tom 😅😅

[@adampisani3268]

As a production sound mixer for film and television, I think I can answer this one. In the previous video Tom's coat makes rather a lot of noise, but it's not zipped up, and his voice is at least audible above the noise. In this video he presumably was colder and zipped his puffy coat up over top of his mic, and like most videos for youtube there wasn't a dedicated sound mixer monitoring things like this, so the issue isn't noticed until post-production. Your options are either replace (ADR) everything Tom says in studio, which becomes very obvious and unrealistic, throw the entire interview in the bin, or use the other subject's microphone or a built in camera mic, which is what they've done here. The further a mic gets from a source (Tom's mouth), the more reflected sound (or echo) you hear in relation to the direct sound coming out of his mouth, making him sound like he's in a bin!