Finished This Sick Barrel Heater

This is part 2 of my Barrel Heater build. If you like the channel hit the Subscribe button to see my awesome builds!

[@fuddwacker4803]

If you run that chimney up higher than the peak of the roof it will vent twice as good and use less wood.

[@curve5746]

Seems the armchair builders are giving you hell lol. This is awesome and exactly what I need for my shop

[@carlkwasnjuk9518]

Not criticizing. Just trying to help. On the outside that elbow could be beneficial to you to be a 6'' Tee w/Clean-Out Cap below the tee. You'd be surprised what the coals that actually make it out to that point, or could be caught in the 2nd top barrel. Is there a clean out on the top barrel?

[@KaraLeo1]

Bro... The music bro... You made me crazy

[@ramirodiaz4039]

It seems like the legs in between were supposed to oppose each other so they lean into one another

[@Herron78]

If that’s single wall pipe on outside of building? It’s gonna leak creosote bad, be like black liquid. Also put a tee up n outside instead of 90 elbow. Any rain that goes down pipe will get in barrel and rust out. Looks good though other than them 2 issues

[@markkoons7488]

Cheaper heat extraction tubes can be made of large diameter EMT tubing if you can score some 3' lengths. The kit castings are really kind of crappy. If a builder could come up with alternative thimbles for the pipe, angle, channel, or even rectangular tube could weld to the barrel rims front and back to make sound, permanent joints.

[@carlkwasnjuk9518]

Pretty sure the exhaust/flu should be 36" above the highest point of the structure. This gives the best draft and you should not need the sealant. Also, it's possible that your flu will get over 500 degrees so that sealant could burn off.

[@rlcustoms]

Carl Kwasnjuk Thanks for the help 🙏

[@Cool-Dudes989]

That is awesome👍

[@rlcustoms]

Donald Boose Thanks man

[@PainterD54]

Your chimney is all wrong. You want the vertical part of the chimney on the inside of the building to get a better draw (it cools off too much outside) And you also want the pipe higher than the peak of the building. That way you will get rid of the pipe going straight horizontal out of the stove like that (good place to build up creosote and have a chimney fire) And you won't need that caulking on that pipe.

[@kevinlewis9151]

I had barrels with removable lids

[@richardwallinger1683]

good job real nice video.. check out glowstove and dunsley heat Yorkshire stove UK.. afterburn chamber .casting refractory .. is not easy to mix .. dry mix in the Stainless steel shards then add 80% of the measured water into a clean wheelbarrow .. go crazy with a narrow shovel . The steel shards make it almost impossible to mix . then finally add the remaining water sprinkled over the refractory . Heap the seemingly too dry mix into the mold with the vibrator table running .. see you tube on how to make the vibrating table from an old tyre and spare grinding motor . the 300 kg of refractory prevents the burn from spalling the metal which is normally used to fabricate woodburners .

[@kmarche100]

Right on man, good job.

[@GreatBigBoat]

Hey, I like the way you glued the flue together....how does it look now?.......lol.

[@rlcustoms]

Not sure. I sold the place a long time ago

[@robsten5387]

Can you setup a removable sliding tray (metal) underneath the lower barrel to catch the ashes ?

[@rlcustoms]

I’m sure you can. Probably a good idea. It stuck to clean

[@dirtydogvideo]

once that top barrel fills up with creosote and you get a good hot fire in it one day....by by garage!! that fuker will have a 50' flame coming out the top of your chimney!!

[@Camocountry1]

That pipe is done wrong. You should have that much smoke coming out! Wait till you have a windy day that room will be solid smoke.

[@johng4758]

Got mine up and running. Did my first burn to burn off the pain. Got it really hot (over 600F) but every time I shut the door the fire goes out. This is with the damper is open and the little air regulator on the front is wide open. Any suggestions? I've had a wood stove in my house for years and never had this problem

[@rlcustoms]

I had to keep the door in the front cracked after I lit mine to get enough air flow to stop it from going out

[@johng4758]

@@rlcustoms So you have to keep it cracked indefinitely?

[@rlcustoms]

@@johng4758 just for a while until the flue got hot enough to start sucking the air out

[@carlkwasnjuk9518]

You should not need sealant on the flu pipes. Once you get the stack 3 feet above the roof line your draft would pull the smoke/gases through the flu pipe and you should get no smoke coming through the joints.

[@rlcustoms]

Carl Kwasnjuk Thanks for the advice. Subscribe to my channel to check out my future builds and to give me help and advice

[@kevinlewis9151]

Also I use cheap screws and put 3 at each joint because we get high winds in Indiana

[@willy4571]

your exhaust pipe is leaking because you ran it the wrong direction

[@philliphall5198]

What does kit cost now ???

[@rlcustoms]

Not sure. Check out eBay

[@skipperball6496]

You got the damper in the wrong spot your top barrel is your heat exchanger

[@oldrango883]

How not to build this wood stove!

[@jamesrussell6870]

Why would you post a video after breaking almost every rule in regards to a safe wood stove/chimney build & installation?? If you have insurance, your installation is something you don't want your agent to find out.. Single wall pipe outside builds creosote immediately...for starters.. first time You put a little too much dry wood in with a little too much air and get distracted... your combustible shop walls light up about the same time the "high temp" silicone runs off & your creosote filled "chimney" becomes a huge blow torch...

[@tracybennett882]

Lose the music . Its irritating