First Ever Carbon Part PERFECT!! (4 of 4) | Basement Kit Helicopter Build Ep .5

[@Will-No-Co]

I love those guys at Easy Composites. Even though I’m in the U.S. I buy stuff from them to show a little support for what they do.👍

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

100% jealous of all those who have easy access to them.

[@dominiqueghekiere7433]

Great video, Here are some tips to consider. Add a layer of kevlar under the top layer so you don't get impaled by carbon fibre in case of a hard lading. Add a layer of fibreglass or Kevlar to the back side so noting can short out if exposed wires touch the back of the shell (even if it's not a big risk I always do it because it's cheap insurance). If you want something stiffer just add a layer of pvc foam in between the layers of fibre if you double the thickness you increase stiffness 8 times

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

I appreciate the feedback and suggestions. Definitely something I am going have to look into to and learn more about!

[@shawnrinkel8377]

Covered exactly what I was going to say. A foam core is amazing. It kinda smoothes out the face because it applies even pressure.

[@Mrdamen1234]

Awesome progress and love the attention to detail 👍 On that topic of hand safety, also consider lung safety and grab a mask during trimming…don’t need those tiny bits of carbon in your lungs 🫁 Keep up the great work and love the channel..very unique project 💪

[@willwright8066]

Carbon fibre is equivocal to asbestos, make sure to use proper PPE! Ideally use an active filter system (blows fresh air) rather than a passive system (classic mask). Stay safe and have fun!

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

Thanks! As a kid I never even thought about PPE… you get older and realize the value… I didn’t realize how bad carbon dust was. Noted.

[@shawnrinkel8377]

Man I wish I had your video before I learned to infuse. You do a good job of covering the topic but not dragging on.

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

@@shawnrinkel8377 thanks!

[@ultimajp]

For your first try that's really good. When I made the instrument panel for the rv7 I went through 2 molds and took 4 trys before I decided it was good enough. I also could never get my bags to hold a vacuum for longer than an hour so I left the pump on for the 24 hours it took to cure.

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

@@ultimajp thanks! I’m really happy with how it turned out. But don’t be fooled, this is just the highlight reel… I had my fair share of issues.

[@flaviovianna4889]

Well done! Really good outcome for the first try!

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

@@flaviovianna4889 thanks! Extremely happy with how it turned out!

[@thatguy2201]

To get the last small wrinkles out of the bag before full vacuum use a heat gun to stretch the bag over contour. For easier peel ply removal score lines with the back edge of a blade, just like you'd do for hinge cutting on composite rc aircraft wing control surfaces. Cutting cf without a dust mask, that's confidence or madness.

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

@@thatguy2201 most definitely ignorance. Lesson learned!

[@DaddyShamurai]

Please please please wear a proper respirator when you are cutting carbon fiber. The carbon dust never leaves your lungs after it finds its way in. Basically tiny carbon daggers. Turned out great though! loving the project.

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

@@DaddyShamurai I didn’t realize how bad it was.. noted for sure! Thanks!!!

[@JoelGrimes-jo5bo]

Looks absolutely awesome. Love your videos. Can't wait to see the engine cowl. Keep the videos coming

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

@@JoelGrimes-jo5bo thanks! that one is going to be fun! But hopefully with a few less miss steps!

[@kingofherdaz]

Very impressive first try! That looks really good! Instead of wasting a t fitting on the vacuum side I often just stuff some mesh offcuts into the vacuum tube and have that go on top of the resin break to ensure an airpath. Usually on larger parts I run a large resin break and use spiral tubing to create a vacuum line to distribute vacuum across the part. If you want to increase torsional rigidity you will need to add some +/-45 plies. You can do this by buying fabrics stitched or braided in that orientation, or by cutting your 0/90 at a 45 degree offset. If you want a spray adhesive that leaves no marking on the finished part I highly recommend 3M 71. Composite Envisions sells it by the can. This stuff is basically a cheat code for resin infusion. I use it for the first layer and use Super 77 for the rest.

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

Can’t say thanks enough for this info. Really appreciate it! I’ll definitely look into everything you suggested.

[@ac4995]

Awesome job mate !

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

@@ac4995 thanks!!

[@scottcross9131]

Nice work, you owe your nephew. LOL. Love this.

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

No doubt! I’m lucky he thinks I’m his coolest uncle!

[@scottcross9131]

@TheOkayestEngineer im guessing like me you only have one sibling ;)

[@joell439]

Well done 👍 Merry Christmas 🎄

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

@@joell439 thanks! Merry Christmas to you too!!

[@Gmoney_72]

NICE!!!

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

Thanks!

[@FlyingDarkLord]

Happy Christmas! 🥳🎄👍🏼

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

Thanks. Merry Christmas to you as well!

[@newagetemplar6100]

Pretty good for a first attempt, congrats on a nice finish on the mold too . Try using a twill weave instead of a plain weave as it conforms around contours a lot easier and you shouldn’t have to do the joint down the middle. Make sure you give your mold another couple of coats of wax again too as a new mold needs it . Personally I’d go for double the amount of carbon/ resin to make the seat stiff enough , soric is a great core material and well worth using. Easycomposites also do a rigid foam core for flat panels ( white in colour and I can’t remember the trade name for it ) . A lawyer of Kevlar would be good in between but please bear in mind it’s a pain to cut when dry and the edges fluff when you cut it . I use a normal angle grinder with slitting discs to cut my components just be careful if you use a mains powered one as the carbon dust is conductive and you will get ‘ tingles ‘ from the grinder 🤭. For future reference generally if you use Kevlar try not to put it on an outer surface that will be either sanded or painted as if you end up rubbing through it will always fluff up . Don’t use a core material around bolt fixing points as it has a tendency to crush. Just use extra carbon or glass . PS chops strand glass can be used but doesn’t move around as easy as woven glass . It’s perfectly fine to use glass and it makes a good bulking out material. Chop strand glass uses a binder to hold the strands together, this binder dissolves when using polyester resin allowing the strands to move around. Epoxy doesn’t dissolve this binder making hand laminating slightly harder . Hope this helps and good luck 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿👍😉

[@georgel5308]

Looks amazing great work. Could always paint the outside of seat to hide flaws make it two tone paint and middle carbon.

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

Thanks! Maybe the next owner will do that… more to come in the new year!

[@hutchdw77]

Nice work? I love the hat!

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

@@hutchdw77 brother!

[@boatcrafterscollective]

Nice work for a first attempt. Doing bag pleats is not easy. Coring will def help a lot.

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

@@boatcrafterscollective thanks!!

[@DJNovaBlast3000]

Get your Pagani on!

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

@@DJNovaBlast3000 now that is just art on wheels!

[@Gmoney_72]

Now that you have the factory supplied seat, can you do a weight comparison? Every gram counts.

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

@@Gmoney_72 yeah. I’ll get a weight and let you know.

[@lawrencemanning]

Yep! No flying after cake! Love your channel and happy Christmas!

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

@@lawrencemanning haha! I’ve had way too much already! Merry Christmas!

[@willwright8066]

To reduce the torsion, use +-45 degree fibres, just make sure to balance the laminate as to avoid warping. If you want extra info just ask :).

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

@@willwright8066 thanks! I’ll definitely keep you in mind as I run into questions. My biggest issue is I don’t know what I don’t know…. Till something goes wrong.

[@Sergeant898]

-Use a respirator and gloves when cutting composites! -To add strength and rigidity to the seat you should add a hexagonal pattern foam infusion 'core' material between the carbon layers. -When infusing with epoxy and a slow hardener, the resin may seem to cure hard but it's actually very brittle. That's why is snaps in the tube. The composite part will have low toughness and will break and splinter easily. You really need to think about post curing at elevated temps. 60-70°C for 24hrs out of mould to (hopefully) minimise distortion, or 80°C+ in mould for 6ish hrs if your tooling can handle it (likely not able to). Use a hot air gun and test the HDT (heat distortion temp) of your offcuts. You may find it doesn't take much heat to soften it. -As someone else said, make sure you keep electrical wires away from the seat and/or layer a non conductive material (glass fiber) on the back side. An electrical short circuit is a serious problem with CF. -Avoid using spray adhesives as much as possible. They reduce the resin strength and adhesion where they are applied and will always reduce the cosmetic appearance. -Find a good clear gel coat to spray on the tool before CF layup. It will save you having to clear coat at the end, eliminates small cosmetic pinhole issues and will add a slight tack for the first layer of CF to adhere to. Duratec Sunshield Clear 904-061 is great.

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

Thanks for the suggestions! I plan to build an oven for future projects. I’ll need them to withstand a couple hundred degrees f and from what I’ve learned a post cure is required. Definitely going to be more careful with cutting carbon and the dust. I’m also going to look into that clear gelcoat. Thanks a lot for providing a part number! Super helpful!

[@Sergeant898]

@@TheOkayestEngineerkzbin.info/www/bejne/e3XUaqBjjpWkg6c

[@charlesvrogers]

Not bad at all.

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

Pretty okayest :)

[@ewaschuk802]

Nice! Why not use some fiberglass in the layup?

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

@@ewaschuk802 the real answer is, I had no clue what I was doing and I was expecting the first part to be junk. The next one will have some core material and maybe even fiberglass to reduce cost.

[@ewaschuk802]

@@TheOkayestEngineerglass between layers makes a cf-fg beam of sorts.

[@charlescampbellii8193]

Where do I find the build of the vacuum pump? Also why did you pick this one over the Helicycle? Just wondering

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

Sorry about that. The card had been updated in the video and I added the link in the description

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

Composite FX is pretty much the only “stable” kit helicopter company in the industry. The others have been passed around and getting a kit or parts can be extremely difficult. I also like the mechanical design and simplicity of the mosquito.

[@nunyabidness9257]

Dude, you rock! Wanted to chastise you a bit for cutting that carbon in your trim operation with no face mask-inhaling carbon is bad ju-ju regardless of what resin you use. Speaking of resins, be more than careful when handling them-once you are sensitized, it’s basically for life. I deal with this a bit now-and it wasn’t just from dealing with the uncured resin-it was sanding a mold that got me. Now I have to be very careful around it or I’ll itch really badly-some people can’t even be in the same building with it or they go into respiratory failure. You’re a big boy, just be careful.

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

Is it best to store the resin in an air tight container? I’m currently storing it in my “paint booth” I run the vent fan most of the time and keep a negative pressure inside. That keeps the fumes from going into the basement but doesn’t really do anything for while I am in there. I was also unaware of the health issues related to carbon dust. I’ve been pretty careful through the process but I’m finding that was a pretty big miss.

[@nunyabidness9257]

Best practice is in an air tight container separated from each other physically by as much distance as you can for longevity’s sake-a year is a reasonable expectation for meeting factory specs, longer if you are careful-you only want to buy a little more resin than you need for a project, having a little on hand only works for a while-I can’t tell you how much resin I have thrown out over the years even though I was actively using it in small quantities.. As for resin exposure, it’s not just what you get on your hands while working, it’s that odd drop that gets on your arm or the dust that gets stuck in the pockets of your elbows when sanding. Always keep paper towels and either alcohol or MEK around while working to clean up and take a shower right after sanding operations.

[@nunyabidness9257]

I meant separated physically from the hardener because the fumes cause the base adhesive to cure.

[@newagetemplar6100]

Pretty good for a first attempt, congrats on a nice finish on the mold too . Try using a twill weave instead of a plain weave as it conforms around contours a lot easier and you shouldn’t have to do the joint down the middle. Make sure you give your mold another couple of coats of wax again too as a new mold needs it . Personally I’d go for double the amount of carbon/ resin to make the seat stiff enough , soric is a great core material and well worth using. Easycomposites also do a rigid foam core for flat panels ( white in colour and I can’t remember the trade name for it ) . A lawyer of Kevlar would be good in between but please bear in mind it’s a pain to cut when dry and the edges fluff when you cut it . I use a normal angle grinder with slitting discs to cut my components just be careful if you use a mains powered one as the carbon dust is conductive and you will get ‘ tingles ‘ from the grinder 🤭. For future reference generally if you use Kevlar try not to put it on an outer surface that will be either sanded or painted as if you end up rubbing through it will always fluff up . Don’t use a core material around bolt fixing points as it has a tendency to crush. Just use extra carbon or glass . PS chops strand glass can be used but doesn’t move around as easy as woven glass . It’s perfectly fine to use glass and it makes a good bulking out material. Chop strand glass uses a binder to hold the strands together, this binder dissolves when using polyester resin allowing the strands to move around. Epoxy doesn’t dissolve this binder making hand laminating slightly harder . I was considering building a pump controller like yours too and including a pressure/ vacuum sensor so if there’s a leak it kicks in automatically, otherwise if you have a bag leak you will either have to leave it constantly on and risk overheating it . Hope this helps and good luck 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿👍😉

[@TheOkayestEngineer]

Your feedback is extremely valuable and appreciated! Thanks!! I’ll definitely keep all that in mind as I work through my next couple projects. I still have a lot to learn!