First Lens Amateur Studio Photographers MUST Buy - SAVE A FORTUNE

[@TinHouseStudioUK]

If you would like a brutally honest portfolio review from me, head here www.tinhouse-studio.com/product/portfolio-review/

[@TheNewArtSchool]

One starter lens I would recommend is the EF 24-70 f/2.8 version I (if possible) it covers most jobs. Version I is just as good stopped down and it goes for very little money secondhand.

[@Popa_Bogdan_Light_Drawing]

i approve!!! have it

[@RebeccaOre]

He’s talking about a studio lens for still lives.

[@TheNewArtSchool]

@@RebeccaOre I know.

[@IanMacdonald02]

Binge watched about 15 vids since stumbling on the channel yesterday. Loving the content and style, thank you sir 🙏

[@fiddleandfart]

Indeed! Just discovered, and I too, am a new fan!!

[@trashcandor]

i use the 85 ts from nikon all day long on my D850. a workhorse for over 6 years now.

[@lifetimesofamultiplemediam1003]

Canon 24-70f4L… (with the macro function) Sharp, and beautiful even on a 5Dmk2… images never cease to amaze me, or my clients… 💗

[@FernandoSLima]

When I sold all my gear 8 yeas ago... the 100mm 2.8 macro was the only lens I kept with me.. And I am glad I did now I am back to photography..

[@Blakelyboy21392]

The only lens I use: 35mm 1.8 RF lens. I have the nifty fifty, a 24L, 85mm 1.8, but 35mm is the only one that stays on my camera. I do everything with it and I just love the look and feel of photos I get with it.

[@vladangracanin1725]

For the first 8 years as a pro shooter I had the canon 24-105mm F4 L mk1 which I bought with the first 5D as a kit and 100mm f2.8 macro (L version didn't exist at the time). Over 20 years later the 100mm f2.8 macro is still my go to for portraits, food, product and macro. I changed the 24-105mm to the 24-70mm f2.8 L mkII because it broke. I've added other focal lengths and brands over the years but these two canons get most of the use.

[@cloud-bytes]

Xf 33mm f1.4 is my main lens (50mm equiv) . When i used canon I was 50mm f/1.4. Mostly street though and total amateur.❤

[@andrefelixstudio2833]

I agree the canon 100 mm is amazing spectacular and incredible for shooting close up product images!

[@TomParsonsposts]

I use the 100mm L series for my portraits and food stills.. it changed my world when i bought it

[@Popa_Bogdan_Light_Drawing]

i've learned digital photography with a 70-200mm canon f4 then 24-70 f2.8 and in the end the 100mm that is a love!

[@petermcginty3636]

Awesome. Bang! Out of the box, get it! I love that sorry of talk. Cheers

[@jpdj2715]

Having shot, way back, 4"*5" and 8"*10", I totally "dig" your lens advice. It's a clever idea for these photographic use cases. We have to immediately add a claimer about time parallax for multi-shots that are to be stitched in post, though. But there is another thing for those wanting to learn photography. As it is all about how to depict a 3D object, world, into a 2D image, we have to be aware that our brains "see" differently - in a way that does not help to "see" how something will look like in 2D before you shot it. This is something that has to be learnt and for which the "10,000 rule" applies. This involves viewpoint and perspective - distance, angle between optical axis and subject, and it helps us to have an understanding of what lens-image angle gives what frame at what distance. So here my position is that, while this 10,000 are a given, the learning process is best served by a single prime lens. A zoomlens complicates the learning process. Taking a perspective drawing class may help speed your awareness up in this respect. As human vision, cognition, perception, are at play here, we have to also understand that average XY humans (sometimes called men) generally have more tunnel vision and the 50mm "standard" lens fits with that, while average XX people (sometimes called women) generally have a wider conscious angle of view. Therefore, the latter turn their heads less than the former. I can imagine that such an average XX person might gravitate towards a 35mm for starters, rather than 50mm. If you look at lifestyle images from XX photographers, you'll often see more "environmental" qualities. Note the words "average" and "generally" in my write-up. Cognitive psychology has developed notions of how people see or learn to see. This starts after birth when our eyes open and the world is upside down. My hypothesis is that people who are functionally blind in one eye will learn, are forced to learn, to see photographically very fast. With one eye, you cannot catch a ball without photographically precise analysis in your brain of perspective change and its speed. With two eyes you use e.g. the angles between the eyes and the speed of the change of this angle when you track a moving object. And guesstimating how fast an object approaches you, again needs 10,000 rehearsals - reason why an average child under 10 generally cannot travel traffic without guidance by an older human.

[@sourcebased]

Wow! A lot of great info you pack here, thanks a lot… As I struggle mostly still with composition and my photographic eye, this gives me a lot to think about. I am XY and 50mm equivalence (25mm on m43) was my first prime, meant to be my “normal”. While it is a good portrait lens, it was always a bit too long for being my normal. Always having to step back ruined the composition I saw, especially the leading lines and size of things. Found out far too late that 40mm equivalence is my perfect normal focal range, with that I really get what I see. Olympus 20mm f/1.4 pro is the perfect little normal lens for me now, that and the mighty Olympus 12-100mm f/4 pro can cover most situations for me now, if i want to travel light. I think everybody is a bit different in that regard!

[@jpdj2715]

@@sourcebased - nice. Well, the 50mm for full frame is actually a bit more tunnel vision than the XY one - 43 is a better approximation. Good for you to have this level of conscousness!

[@sourcebased]

@@jpdj2715 Thanks a lot, great compliment! I think there is nothing wrong with a normal XY view, it is just more narrow and focused. But I struggled a lot with it for years and thought something might be wrong with me… Never saw it as an advantage. I also love to shoot longer but this is a very different mode of photography for me. Thanks for opening my eyes!

[@GregShaw]

I just got the EF 100mm f2.8 IS Macro L for £315 second hand and its immaculate, so you can get the good lenses at cheap prices. I have the Laowa x2 100mm Macro which is crazy sharp and costs around £350 new, but I wanted a AF macro lens to be able to do auto focus bracketing with the R6 body I use.

[@BrentCalver]

I've have the 85mm 1.8 USM and it's also incredible. For my day-to-day newspaper work I need to take my 70-200, but for portraits in a studio I don't care to be swinging it around, and the 85 is tack sharp. I'm tempted by the 1.4 versions, but like you said, you won't notice the difference. I may upgrade to the 85 f2 for the RF mount, as the macro capability is attractive, but, well, I'm good for now. I will say, however, the 50mm 1.4 in that USM 'gold ring' lineup is famously soft, with serious durability issues even under ideal conditions, and should be avoided.

[@FernandoSLima]

I have one 85mm too... and love it...

[@matrixphotodesign]

Yes I just got a used Tilt/Shift a while defiantly a game changer.

[@lesliesmith5266]

One of my assistants whould call the swing and tilt operation Schmuttenpluck's principal. 😊

[@chibuzonweze3291]

I 100%agree. The 100mm 2.8 is an awesome lens. I got that with the 50mm 1.8. As a beginner using the t7i, That is what i use in most of my shoots. I am Considering getting the 18 to 35 sigma 1.8 for wide angle shots. Every one on KZbin literally swears its the sharpest lens in that range.

[@jasonjansen2618]

I AM a beginner and I DO have that lens! 🤘🏻

[@andrade881013]

If you use Sony, and you could choose only one lens, I would recommend the Zeiss Batis 40mm f/2 CF, pretty versatile lens, it’s an excellent all around lens because of the close focus ability, distortion is under control which is surprising for a 40 mm lens, Zeiss micro contrast is just brilliant, and you have good autofocus if needed for stills and video. Check Daniel Schiffer’s videos, he uses it a lot for his commercial video shots. Price wise, not a cheap lens, but you will not need a 35mm of a 50mm, so you can justify buying it second hand, great buy.

[@marcusavanti902]

I bought the old canon 90mm tilt shift but for portraits and video. Manual focusing at 2.8 is easy, relative to 1.2.

[@andrewjacksonmusic]

I got the 105mm sigma and have a nifty 50. Shooting on canon 200d but just starting out so happy with them for now. Will probably get a 5d 2nd hand for a 2nd camera and to be able to shoot full frame. Instead of crop sensor

[@marcusmilukas478]

I shoot portraits/headshots and I’ve been having a (reasonably) good experience with my EF 85 1.8. It’s adapted for my R6 with the Canon adapter. Bought it refurbished from Canon for $249. When it’s on it is great but I have found the focus can be off a hair. Canon recalibrated it for free but this has taught me to work my manual focus skills and slow down a bit (as a newer photographer its a wonderful thing to learn new skills, right?). As I am getting to know the lens better and work with it more I am loving it more - especially for the price. Yes, I’d love the 85 1.4L but I can’t really justify it as this 1.8 just seems to get better and better.

[@Noname-yu8qw]

for product photos I mostly use 24mm tilt shift, 50mm, 85mm, sometimes a 20mm and even a 24-70mm lens, I know it's not the most typical stuff someone should use, but it works for me

[@ignacymat]

90mm is such a great lens to have, far more versatile than 100 macro

[@leonmccurdy3672]

I wish Olympus did a tilt/ shift lens but I use the sensor shift feature that my camera has to build up the resolution and I like using my Olympus 30mm macro lens for other shots than macro (but don’t tell my other lenses that).

[@iaincathro3373]

I got a second hand 90mm TS one and love it! And strangely enough have that 100 as well - you can correct me but I believe it's probably the sharpest lens I have.

[@yukonica4560]

The 100 2.8 (L sorry… didn’t know better) rarely leaves the body. Next most used is a 45mm tse. Thanks again for your videos.

[@JasonMichaelsPhotography]

❤ i got a Viltrox 85mm f1.8 auto focus lense on my Fujifilm XH-1 camera 📷 body 📷 so it's a 127.5mm "35mm" equivalent is that right ✅️ on the money 💰 for just starting out? Thanks again for your time and information 👍

[@jpdj2715]

"Scheimpflug" is pronounced Shime-pfloog in German, but the e is totally silent, so the m is the cut-off point, and everything is staccato

[@lukemcgregor6969]

If I was starting over, I go straight to a good 24-70 F 2.8, and a good 50 mm.

[@Skipsul]

Fotodiox makes T/S adapters to mount medium format lenses on mirrorless. They are not great, and lack the gearing controls of the properly made Canon and Nikon lenses. But, they not only get the job done, they allow for flexibility to change lenses, and some systems like the Pentax 645 have an abundance of inexpensive options that are wickedly sharp. Plus, they have zooms, so you can make yourself a T/ S zoom (or go nuts and make a 600mm T/s).

[@blakegirouxphotography]

This is like when people ask me what portrait lens I use. Theyre always shocked by the quality. I use an 85mm f1.8. Cheapest 85mm I can find. Its works jsut as well as the 1.4 or 1.2 for a fraction of the price. I dont need fancy, I need practical.

[@JasonMichaelsPhotography]

I currently have the Nikon's DSLR's old school 🏫 D-40X D-200 D-700FX AND D-7000 + FUJIFILM X-TRANS mirrorless XM-1, XE-1, XE-2, XT-1, XH-1 ❤ Is that good 👍 enough for just starting out 😂

[@Greg.Mika.]

On a Nikon D700, I use a Tokina 100mm macro 2.8 and a Nikkor 60mm macro 2.8 for practicality, both courtesy of The Angry Photographer. Very tempted to switch to Canon for that tilt shift lens, though! Cheers ^^

[@bickybickford]

First of all, love the channel. I shoot video mostly and I use the Sigma 18-35mm F1.8 Art I think it is a great first timer lens.

[@philhorgan]

Thanks Scott, enjoy your channel. Quick question, does your choice apply for both full frame and crop sensor bodies? thanks

[@geot8254]

Sigma 85/1.4 Art is also great opton

[@jornidema1884]

I shoot with the m43 system and unfortunately they don't offer a tilt shift lens

[@fredzh]

I love my Canon 90mm TSE (great lens!) FYI: SHIME-floog

[@chaoringmeister]

I’m curious, which shutter are you using with the Mamiya lens. Do you use the leaf shutter in the lens or focal plane on the camera.

[@shaunmaddox]

Haha sounds like my kit. I use basic focal lengths but it will get the job done. My kit consists of the Canon 16-35mm L, 50mm L and 100mm L macro. In the past, it helped me cover a varieties of styles from restate, portrait and product photography. I’ve shot an entire wedding with just a 50mm and full frame camera. One can easily get lost in purchasing every focal length. Although, it you add a good imagination with technical knowledge, you can achieve a lot with one focal length. Just depends on the style of photography and given space.

[@simonpayne7994]

Interesting. Tilt-Shift. I would not have thought of that. Otherwise I would have recommended 50mm. For wider - stitch in post. For narrower - crop in post. Cropping to get the same perspective as 100mm, but using a 50mm, is completely unproblematic. Of course, in the latter case you have divided your resolution by factor 4. In other words, you have just saved deploying a softening filter. 😊

[@gabriel09132]

It’s funny you rested on 100mm 2.8, I’m a nikon shooter and that is essentially the first lens I bought outside my kit lens. 105mm 2.8 Macro. Very sharp and amazing lens. In fact, did a shoot in my kitchen just earlier with that exact lens .GREAT LENS would never sell it.

[@grantedmonston1]

I got a 100mm macro lens from mpb, (I'm poor so my budgets always tight 😂) To be fair, I absolutely love it. At the moment it is my go to lens for most stuff other than wildlife shots, then I use the sigma 150-600 contemporary. For canon camera. Love your videos :)

[@MarkusMischek]

I have a question that's a little off topic: One of my clients (fashion) would like to set up a basic studio to shoot clothes as flat lays for lookbooks. They want to use Lightroom because they already have the Creative Cloud. But I´m a Capture One user though I could use Lightroom for free as well. I just think C1 is more professional. So this client asked me a list of equipment for their studio and as far as I could realize they are very budget sensitive. So what could be the killer argument to convince them to invest the money in C1? They will probably use a Sony camera. The employees that will use the software are no photographers and will only do some crash course. So they will be new to either one of these apps. By the way the light set up will be always the same as they don't have to take any creative shot.

[@ZinjaGaming]

Then just stick to the lightroom, I don't think they need a advance color grading for their shoot. It's already hard to justify investing on Capture One if they already have a lightroom.

[@RollinLeonard]

What metal is cheaper than tin? For a poor man's Tin House setup you could get a Pentax 67 100, a Kipon tilt shift adapter, and a 5dsr. The Cambo is beautiful and easier to use but you can get almost all of the same shots. still get an insane amount of tilt and shift that rotate independently. still get a massive image circle to move around in. when i was shooting my work on the 100mm 2.8 (not L) i rented an L and did some testing and found the dirt cheap 100 2.8 to be better -- sharper center, sharper edges. usually i'm not rewarded for being cheap but that lens is an amazing value if you don't need image stabilization! i had the 90mm ts (old one because I'm cheap) and my copy had such horrible fringing and the most disgusting low contrast rendering that I sold it. maybe it's because i bought a really beat up one? i dunno. i hate that lens.

[@classic.cameras]

I just love that Canon chose to NOT include a cheap piece of plastic hood for their cheaper RF lenses when they switched the whole game to mirrorless. So cheap of them. Even Sony gives you a hood for their cheapest lenses.

[@TinHouseStudioUK]

yeah that really annoys me. They cost so little to make, either up the price a bit or just throw it in for free.

[@sexysilversurfer]

They have never supplied a lens hood for their cheaper lenses even with EF mount. To be fair most people buying those lenses either never use them or they lose them and never replace them.

[@gohumberto]

Ebay and Amazon are you best friend regarding expensive pieces of Canon plastic like lens hoods and lens caps.. I reckon they come from the same Chinese factory but for 25% of the price. The first "proper" lens I bought for my Canon 6D was the 24-105 f/4. The main drawback is that the lens zooms out under gravity. Blutack is required when shooting vertically down.....which kind of spoils the whole red ring "L" thing.

[@davidmitchell4899]

I think it’s pronounced Shime flug. Great channel by the way!👍🏻

[@edwardvk]

Hi Scott, if you take requests, can you do a video about Bikini Lists? Should we email you requests instead?

[@MikeTaylorPhotoArts]

Shim flim ???? Nope. Scheimpflug. Named after Theodore Scheimpflug. Sounds like "shime-floog"

[@Mir1189]

For studio I would go for cheap portrait lens in 50-100mm range, F2.8 or faster (or equivalent for APS-C, M43). For outdoor/journalist style photography I would go for 24-70 f2.8 zoom FF, but here I would recommend smaller camera body with smaller lens - either APS-C or M43 sensor. Even pro cameras with lenses would be water resistant and under 1kg for whole kit.

[@RetroPhotoPro]

If you know you are entering the world of tabletop professionally yes the 90mm TS all the way. Total noob? Nifty fifty.

[@kaczynski2333]

A lot of "well, I use..." Going on. I can't argue against your logic at all.

[@reniesboutique]

I have the 5DS and that same 100mm lens. Just bought an 85mm too .. no L versions . I’m just now getting a small studio set up in my home office space- SMALL 😳🫣👍

[@dermusikman]

Scheimpflug Principle! en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scheimpflug_principle

[@ThanoojThampy]

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scheimpflug_principle