First Start Of Old Bamford Stationary Engine SD3

[@benjamindejonge3624]

They’re fantastic when there is a Chinese restaurant neigh by, they running great on kitchen waist oil

[@MicMovieStudios]

Your enthusiasm for this old machine is infectious! I’m loving how happy you were in getting and running this old girl. I hope she gives you many years of service.

[@archmcdonald6170]

In Australia we have a product called "Start you Bastard" may be that would help :-)

[@davedownunder8057]

gotta can of that for everything

[@jimvargaco.6344]

I'd be careful with starting spray just because of the extremely high compression of non-electric diesel engines like this.

[@WarblesOnALot]

@@sinisterhipp0 G'day, Nope, that's the actual Brand-Name. The product is about a 50/50 mixture of Kerosene or Petrol and Petroleum Ether.... Squirt it into the Intake Manifold of either a recalcitrant Petrol or Diesel Engine..., and if it can possibly fire up - then it will have a go ; and having run a bit then it will warm up & maybe run propperly after that. Just(ifiably ?) sayin', Have a good one... Stay safe. ;-p Ciao !

[@philleeson7835]

Best kept in the cupboard unless you want to bugger up an engine. You're better of with a heat gun,blowtorch or a bit of burning rag held up to the air intake

[@28YorkshireRose12]

Is that the stuff you pronounce as "Starchy-Bearstud"? - A squirt won't hurt, but it might break your thumb!

[@WayOutWestx2]

PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU COMMENT! Yes, you're right, we should have kept cranking after the decompressor lever was moved. We weren't sure what we were doing but now it's clear. In our defense, it was really hard going! Also, the handle drops off very easily as soon as the flywheel spins faster than we can keep the pressure on, so it looks as if we weren't trying when we just couldn't keep up. It's worn on the edges and needs some repair. ALSO the decompressor lever has been repaired in the past. That's why it's works in a different direction to the manual. All it does is push the top of the valve in a little - it doesn't matter how quickly it is released. AND, as for the vibrations, I checked the rpm and it's not running too fast or too slowly. There's nothing missing. I just need to fix it down better - which I will! Thank you if you wanted to comment on these issues - I just don't want you to waste your time covering the same ground. Feel free to write something new though.

[@meex88hiphop]

the flywheels are not balanced it will eat the bearings if you bolt it down to ground its lifting half a ton 3 times a second

[@sixmagpies]

@@meex88hiphop Er ... actually quite the contrary. These engines are designed, and balanced, to be absolutely stationary. If "loose", the compression stroke "bucks" or "hops" the entire structure to move slightly, effectively ruining any designed rotational balancing.

[@meex88hiphop]

@@sixmagpies ofcrs they were designed to be stationary but they wont "feel" better if they get bolted, on contrary, they will suffer greater material fatigue if you bolt them down. just because they are not moving when bolted, it doesnt mean the forces are not there in my opinion, if you have to bolt down a half ton engine to stop if from jumping, something is obviously off balance i would instead balance the flywheels and the counterweight rather than bolting it to the ground

[@sixmagpies]

@@meex88hiphop Never said anything about "feelings", sir .. but whatever you say. I'm just an old MS, retired in Ireland, who has been directly and solely responsible for signing off on the installation, commissioning and sea-trialling of some of the very largest diesel engines ever constructed by man. (MWM, B&V, Sulzer, Wartsilla, Hyundai.) Basics 1. Any rotational machinery suffering chaotic accelerations (movement) is quite impossible to balance. 2. One of the most important elements in the installation of large marine diesel machinery is the series of torsional vibration calculations that must be made before, during and after each event. We are not at home to "Wiggly bits" !

[@jesseamaya4413]

Does not matter what it is. It's a wonderful feeling to bring an old piece of equipment back to life.

[@merv1908]

These engines are very easy to start . After you drop the compression lever keep cranking a couple more times on full compression it will fire. a lot of comments here are from people who don't anything. How do I know? I have several single cylinder diesel engines all start easily.

[@andymanaus1077]

If only modern equipment was engineered to the same quality standards of the love given to the making of these old girls.

[@tomjohns8498]

I could listen to your voice for age's great storytelling accent, loving the series 2... you keep the videos coming and we will keep smiling 😃😊

[@WayOutWestx2]

Ok, will do!

[@keko4618]

Ahh, those days in my childhood. Every autumn in harvesting time, stationary motor and harvesting machine was pulled to our little farm. They were owned together by 3 farms. Starting the motor was celebration to little kid. Smell of petrol, cooling water running, smoke and sounds. Unforgettable. The results was kept in storage, and by winter milled. There was rat and mice poop within, but who cared? Maybe because off it, in age 63 I am still standing hard.

[@abhishekgourav6144]

I too started a diesel engine..scary at first and still scary...maily because of the fear of kickback..

[@BoTMSapper]

My 14 year old daughter can start my Lister CS3, the same type of setup as yours. What you are doing wrong is stop cranking when you release the decompression. The decompression is there to start being able to get momentum up, and when you have got enough, keep cranking as you release the decompression. Once you do a couple of full rotations with the decompression off, it should then fire. But please for the love of your hands, keep all 4 fingers and thumb on one side of the handle, otherwise, you will be able to share a great story of how you got no thumb.

[@springwoodcottage4248]

After a while you will probably find a way to start it reliably. For my 1950's tractor I use starting fluid, sprayed into the manifold as the original kygas starter has corroded away, but starter fluid polarises engine folk excessively, some believing it is a blessing from God, others a curse from the Devil. There were all manner of "crank avoidance" devices developed that included 12 gauge cartridge powered (no shot!), and various starters including ropes round the pulleys and similar heath robinson arrangements. All needing to be approached with extreme caution as crank injuries tend to be bad. I imagine a fast stop would be to decompress the engine, but sometimes my tractor will run when hot even if decompressed. Recently I had all my four injectors rebuilt and this has helped starting. It should be relatively easy and low cost to have a diesel injector shop check the spray pattern from your injector. Good Luck! Thanks for sharing!

[@WayOutWestx2]

thanks, yes, getting the injector checked would be no harm anyway, would it? And there's only one of them.. : - )

[@springwoodcottage4248]

The other thing that is often forgotten with Diesel engines is that the air filter has to be clean.

[@pturner3078]

Hi Tim, when hand cranking do not put your thumb around handle but over the top, it will save a dislocated or broken thumb if and when a kickback occurs, have fun.

[@cheetor5923]

Knowing how to hand crank an engine without destroying you're thumb and wrists is a long lost art.

[@jamoiam]

The energy in the flywheel is what gets you over compression in the first couple turns. You do get enough to get over one compression at least, but you do need to keep cranking. It's a confidence and commit 100% to it thing. Well, at least in my experience with Lister and Ruston of the same size. Apart from the obvious hazard of flying off the handle, also please do change to not put your thumb around the handle. It might feel awkward but it is vital to save breaking your thumb. :-)

[@WayOutWestx2]

thanks - wise words!

[@nickcoppard5335]

You have to believe it is going to start and get some one that knows when to drop the valve lift before you slow down

[@chezburger1781]

@@WayOutWestx2 fairly late but i cant stress enough what jam said about cupping the starting handle instead of wrapping thumb round, had a petter paz1 kick back randomly and dam near took me wrist out.

[@eyjaheimaproject4563]

This is a magical piece of engineering and I'm very much looking forward to seeing you integrate it into the charcoal project. That slow diesel thump it's a beautiful sound, none of the harshness of a modern, multi cylinder version. Glorious. Martin and Vivian, Rousay

[@jameskennedy3745]

How wonderful to see one of these machines running again. In my childhood, I was raised on a sheep farm in outback Australia, and we used one of these machines to power the cutters for shearing the sheep. So the next thing to get, and connect to this machine, is the sheep shearing equipment.

[@jimwilliamson7598]

When cranking, keep cranking after the compression lever has been released

[@WayOutWestx2]

Hundreds of people have said the same thing, but it's really hard work. That's why I put together a little started motor

[@alexnosheds]

My soul cries out for a concrete pad- a half ton of casting and flywheels jumping around like that is incredible wear on the bearings and valves and everything will suffer but I’m pretty certain you have a long term plan for this to prevent it from hopping off into the sea 🌊 :-) Can’t wait to watch this story unfold.

[@the_retag]

Yeah a solid base sound good

[@arty1799]

I wonder if there is a balance issue that could be addressed with counterweights. As for the hard start, perhaps a lighter fuel (kerosene/paraffin) could be used for the initial startup? Might be too much of a hassle though. This new toy looks like so much fun.

[@nobody864]

@@arty1799 Single Cylinder engine will always have this inbalance.

[@harrywebb9839]

These single cylinder engines were often on trolleys, they do rattle around a fair bit, but they're pretty low revs, somewhere between 700 and 1000 on my ev1 of a similar age.

[@shazbotnanu7037]

Watching other videos of similar single cylinder engines with a basic trolley to sit on they do NOT seem to shake near as bad as this one. Something seems wrong for sure.

[@garyeales1116]

I don’t know if it would make a difference but the decompression lever is being shown at 9 o’clock in the book before you move it down.

[@ledorf]

Yea, and maybe just moving the lever instead of slapping it so it spins 270 degrees

[@antispiritanimal3467]

@@ledorf this stressed me too much hahaha

[@kmcwhq]

@@ledorf Yes!

[@gestaltlabart]

If you "overflop" the bottom position, it does not start, because the upward movement break compression, when itˋs most needed. Donˋt flop it but grab it and turn it - thats what you did when it started.

[@WayOutWestx2]

Thanks, but this decompressor lever just pops out of position when deactivated, so it makes no difference how quickly it's released. (It's been repaired in the past, which is why it seems back to front..)

[@Hondanissanman]

These stationary engines are awesome 👍. Great to see folks keeping them running 👌.

[@1943L]

My dad worked at Bamford’s, Uttoxeter, related to JCB nearby. Sadly the agricultural machine factory is no more.

[@alexbaxter9512]

(JC Bamford...)

[@SBamm]

I'm a Bamford..got any more history?

[@1943L]

My dad talked about 'Woffeler' spelling? machines he made at Uttoxeter. I did a little business with JCB when Rupert Bamford was in purchasing.

[@blackstone3323]

I watched, I had a big grin on my face, I was entertained, I subscribed liked and hit the bell. Thankyou Tim for everything you have given me today. I have an engine exactly like yours, and you have inspired me to get it out from under the covers and into the shed for some prep work for starting it. Thanks again Tim and Sandra.

[@markfoster6110]

Here u go .you have to keep turning it . Like to have the crank handle to be on the crank so on the up stripe it is on compression. A few turns to build up speed then move decompress or to the run position . Get someone to do this for you .keep on cranking don't stop put some back into it . It's a bit of a knack .

[@WayOutWestx2]

Yep, you're right, Mark - it's hard going though

[@markfoster6110]

@@WayOutWestx2 yes sorts the men out from the girls !!! It is something you get better at . I start a40 HP ronaldson and tippet . Others have tried I have given lessons . You will get better at it .

[@markfoster6110]

Make sure before you try the compression is on the up stroke of the crank handle most important .

[@robmckennie4203]

That truck really is something, I love the capstan winch

[@JeffRAllenCH]

"What the hell did you do to the antichrist?"

[@CW-il4nd]

@@JeffRAllenCH Great reference

[@anotherstrangerontheinterw158]

I’m glad I came across this. My dad recently caved and bought me a hit and miss engine. I am still learning how they work, but it’s been a fascinating journey so far. He has come to love the look of old vertical engines like yours here. My grandpa and I are on the hunt for one hopefully by Christmas. He has ole tractors.

[@willywgb]

With the decompression lever on get the diesel turning using the gas engine. Turning the diesel over like this builds up heat in the cylinder of the diesel which helps with starting. After 20 or 30 seconds release the decompression lever but keep the gas engine engaged. When the diesel starts disengage the gas engine and you are away. This arrangement really save you arms and the potential of injury. Sorry this was in two messages as my fat fingers got in the way. Good luck with your project.

[@RichardShipman]

Hi Tim, in my experience of starting these things, the book is correct, you crank a couple of times to build up some inertia, and then pop the decompression lever and keep cranking for a couple more turns, the inertia in the flywheel will help you crank it over compression and its much more likely to start that way. After all, you're just hoping that the inertia will bring it through compression, so keeping cranking means that it tries to fire a couple of extra times and that will mean that it starts a lot quicker. I live near the Internal fire museum in Wales, and run a small preserved railway, where we have a hand started locomotive. Plus I have a Lister A and D awaiting some restoration - oh for the time for all these things eh? Good luck with your Banford, those single cylinder engines are great.

[@DB-thats-me]

As the instructions say, keep cranking a few turns after dropping the de-compression lever. The crank handle will automatically disconnect when it fires even when you’re holding it. On our 2 cylinder Lister, on the tug boat, we de-com both cylinders then only start one cylinder. Once it starts banging, we engage second cylinder. 👍😃

[@magnusnielsen2648]

@@DB-thats-me a backfire would be pretty nasty when holding on to the handle

[@roseroserose588]

@@magnusnielsen2648 It'll be okay as long as you keep all fingers on one side of the handle - if you grip it with your thumb around it it'll snap it clean in two but as long as you're mindful of what you're doing it shouldn't really be an issue (:

[@magnusnielsen2648]

@@roseroserose588 yeah....😀

[@DB-thats-me]

@@magnusnielsen2648, yup.

[@robertstratford9598]

I was away from your channel for a few years i am glad I am back love your videos and I have so many to catch up on .

[@TheAmazingAdventuresOfMiles]

As others have said, essential to keep cranking as you throw the decomp lever, if you stop it'll likely just bounce off the compression. Also hold the handle with all fingers and thumb on the back just in case it kicks back. Run it on a pure 5L bottle of diesel Purge (from Liquimoly) as it'll really give the valves, pump, injector, manifolds and cylinder a good clean. If you're really struggling to get it going, you can pre-heat the air intake (hair-drier is good). You can also, if you really must, give it a very quick spray of Easy Start and that'll certainly fire it up but it's best not to use that, as any engine that needs Easy Start is in need of mechanical attention.

[@colvinator1611]

Fantastic! Well done to you all. A real piece of engineering history.

[@bren106]

We used to start cold reluctant diesel engines with a burning rag, soaked with petrol or paraffin, held near the air intake so it's pulling in hot , less dense, air. Not a move for the faint-hearted but very effective. The other thing we needed to be aware of doesn't apply to you Tim, make sure the boss wasn't around to see us doing it.

[@parcydwr]

This is how I help my tractor to start. I just light a piece of newspaper and hold it under a hole in the intake manifold where there should be a heater fitted.

[@WayOutWestx2]

Thanks, yes, but curiously there are two ways in for the air so it's not easy to heat it. But I'll keep trying..

[@gonzo_the_great1675]

I good old building site trick. I used to do the same to start the old Perkins lump in my heap of a rangerover. Till I got a heater injector fitted. Really got some funny looks, especially in Tesco's car park! You need to remember to move the flames after a while, to allow the engine to get some oxygen. But it works a treat.

[@corriedalefarm]

We used and still donatbtime use the same style for starting lister generator and some tractor here in the falkland.

[@peterraftery2426]

Be careful the burning rag don't get pulled in. An old mechanic told of adjusting the fuel timing depending on the fuel source. This was from pre WW2 and diesel was poorly refined and the Cetane rating maybe unregulated unlike today. If starting continues to be difficult, you might try ether through an orificed fitting, the miniscule amount wont hurt anything, or some old diesels used have a removable hollow bolt, the Bolt would be removed and a fuel pellet installed. These would help start the fire. Good Luck, your vid was most enjoyable, wish I was there. Peter

[@chiperchap]

Wow I'm new to the cannel Tim so getting videos all squffy lol so I've obviously seen her working. But wow she's a beauty! So lucky to have her and god bless you for putting her to her intended use. I'm quite jealous chap lol

[@chiperchap]

Half a ton just jumping about lol imagine big foundry engines they must have felt it a mile away lol

[@NB-ld1qt]

I am lucky enough to have a Bamford SD-1 in Australia. 1938 from memory. Not many in Aus. Keep up the good work.

[@eCitizen1]

It was very satisfying to watch you guys get it running again. What a wonderful old engine.

[@jason4109]

I love this old stuff they don't make them like this any more simple and still running 80 to 100 years latter

[@zestoslife]

A trick I have seen with old tractor diesels is to have a hot air gun and blow hot air into the cylinder to warm it up before starting. I don't know how that would work on a single cylinder like this or where one would blow the hot air in. But it does a great job of heating up things allowing for a much easier start.

[@ablacknambercat]

We used to replace the water in the block with boiling water to start the tractor on frosty mornings, drain the block at night and repeat the next day.

[@roadrunner4404]

Super jealous. Want a similar engine myself. I thought the head needed to be preheated on those old girls. Great video

[@jamesgibb9737]

Looks like some very crude balancing of the fly and drive wheels is needed. Lovely looking machine and land rover!

[@netkissa]

For a stationary engine that thing is totally going places.

[@marnieparney]

Congratulations, governor! The only part I understood was the beautiful blue tarp it came with, but it's a fantastic machine and I'm glad you're taming it.

[@WayOutWestx2]

Ha! I'm trying, anyway : - )

[@Rusty_stuff]

I have ran these antique engines my whole life with my father. I agree with the poster that mentioned to not throw the compression relief handle any further than the pure 6 o’clock position. Also I understand that you are not anchored to a slab. At running speed your engine should bounce much less. It’s understandable for these things to go everywhere while they get to speed but they should smooth to a smaller vibration at proper running speed and yours doesn’t. I would check main bearings for wear, check crankshaft for true, and check flywheels for balance. If you want longevity out of this engine it needs to run smoother than what I’m seeing. Just my 2 cents, I’ll be eagerly awaiting the follow-up video…

[@mxplayer2134]

We in india have same engine... We used a open sprit flame on intake side for cold starts.... It literally sucked falme inside and started in one attempt even in coldest of temperatures

[@WayOutWestx2]

thanks. I will try that

[@ptonpc]

Good to see the old girl coming to life. I don't have any words of wisdom.

[@What..a..shambles]

The book says keep turning while releasing compression.. You are stopping.. Easy to say sat here😁

[@RussellNelson]

I agree. You can see, after releasing the compression, that it gets to a point where it "bounces" in the reverse direction. That is, I believe, where you are getting enough compression to ignite the fuel. That's why it smokes.

[@zaqse]

Yep and stop playing with the lever ,just hold it in the correct position ,I don't know why it goes all the way to the top

[@WayOutWestx2]

Thanks, but this decompressor lever just pops out of position when deactivated, so it makes no difference how quickly it's released. (It's been repaired in the past, which is why it seems back to front..)

[@woodhonky3890]

I saw the oil filler lid was off and was saying in my mind put the lid on! Put the lid on! I hope all your plans for this amazing old engine work out.

[@gtb81.]

when you're starting it, get it up to speed (as fast as you can get it going) and when you flip the decompression lever, stay on it for a bit through compression, don't stop and then throw the lever, you've got to throw the lever then let off

[@ronmartinmhg2804]

This reminds me of when I started work in London in a blacksmith's shop in 1948 at fifteen. The drill stands, saws, grinding and all the other machines were powered by overhead belt drives with belts running down to them. No belt or machine guards in those days. Those spinning belt wheels gave me the creeps. I can't wait to see what you hook up to your brute. With all your different projects on the go you must work twentyfour hours a day. I'm always eager for the next video. Sandra is very patient with you playing with your toys;-) Keep your thumbs back!

[@kfl611]

I've seen that, belts being ran by a water wheel.

[@lifehealth489]

fabricate a metal , plastic or fiberglass cover for wheels on each side , and a tractor loader dc starter to spin the wheel to crank it to prevent any mishaps . it could be done .

[@cheetor5923]

I like how you put brand new modern engine oil in it, and only after a few cranks it's absolutely filthy. Shows how much better modern oils are at cleaning gunk out of engines. I bet after a few early oil changes and temprature cycles it'll be clean as a whistle inside. I remember my poor old 1980's Corolla I had when I was a student. over 200,000km on it, and it was filthy inside. I splurged some money on it and put some full synthetic in it and gave it 2 oil changes over about 3 months. When I popped the thing open. It looked brand new inside!..

bealtfull motor i love it

[@Spetet]

Ring up Ken Boak. He knows all about old stationary engines, including running them on wood gas (as in from the production of charcoal.)

[@AndyUK-Corrival]

Fabulous, it is alive! Love old engines. I had a boat with a 1937 a Kelvin diesel in it that started on petrol paraffin mix before going onto diesel. Andy UK

[@PlanetMojo]

You have the same problem I do. Horses. I've been waiting ten years for a new shop while we built a couple of horse structures and cleared three pastures 😐 - we are allegedly going to start work on my shop this year 🤔

[@WayOutWestx2]

Exactly!

[@robwilde855]

I was born in the village of Doveridge two miles away from Uttoxeter, where this engine was made, and my father worked there, at Bamfords, as a radial driller. He quite possibly helped to make part of this actual engine. I remember, he was very strong and fit and used to cycle home for the dinner hour. When the five-minute warning siren was heard at five minutes to one he'd rush out, leap on his bike and be off, getting there with seconds to spare! May I add a couple of things about the starting. One thing that didn't help was knocking the decompression lever down so sharply that it flew round to the nine o'clock position which is also one of the decompression positions [and also the one recommended in the manual, if you'd looked at it a little more carefully]. There's no need to stand away as though you're frightened of it: just turn it calmly from either the three or the nine o'clock spots to six o'clock and leave it there. The other thing is WHEN to operate the lever. Avoid turning it when the piston is halfway up the compression stroke, that's just wasting some of the flywheel's energy. And don't worry about keeping on putting in energy after the first compression. It needs that extra bit of energy. It's not the sort of engine that can backfire or bounce back REALLY sharply, and you can of course use the proper grip with the thumb kept in the clear. Why don't you believe the book, and at least try doing what it says? But well done for having a go. Practice makes perfect, and you'll find that when you get everything right it'll be simple and easy. I've operated several machines from this era. Very satisfying. They knew what they were doing, those old engineers!

[@WayOutWestx2]

Yes, it's a wonderful machine, (though if I had a time-machine I would go back and ask why the fuel cut-off has to be millimeters from the governors - mind your fingers! - and why the air in-take is spread over both sides of the head, so pre-heating is impossible!). As I say at the top of the comments, the decompressor lever has been repaired in the past and now spins freely. I've since figured out how to start it much better (see kzbin.info/www/bejne/p6GYg4Kvo9J4ra8), but this was a video about our first attempts - warts and all. I wonder was your father proud to work there? The design and engineering is outstanding. But perhaps it was just a noisy dangerous repetitive job too? Thanks for your comment : - )

[@robwilde855]

@@WayOutWestx2 Yes - watch your fingers! I knew you'd get the knack pretty quickly! They have their peculiarities, but I know that local farmers were pleased with them, although these particular engines came onto the scene rather towards the end of that era. When I was a boy a lot of the bigger farms still had medium-size horizontal stationary engines for the generation of their own electricity [before 1930s mains electricity] which had been manufactured and installed in the late nineteenth century. Sorry, I hadn't seen your information about the lever's unusual behaviour. Just read my post again and I hope I didn't sound critical - not intended. I don't know how my father felt in that way at that precise time, but I remember he was always happy. He hadn't had much choice about his work, being taken out of school by his farm-worker parents [much against the wishes of his schoolmasters] as soon as legally possible, at the age of 14. That would have been in 1932. Most working-class parents then didn't really understand why anyone from their class would want more schooling, and they needed more income for the family. Then he was in the Fleet Air Arm during the war, then back to Bamfords. He moved to other engineering works later, always doing the same job, and certainly was proud of his work then. There were some things he could do [I was told by other workmen], such as devising a way of grinding a tool to cut a wide hole in the thinnest sheet steel, that others could not do. I know I was always proud of him. A famous footballer and cricketer locally, and a great man, in so many ways, though mild-mannered. Generally speaking I think it was more normal in those days to feel pride in one's work, than now. It was the carrying-over of an old tradition from when life was simpler. Especially with farm workers. Also, men did not complain of noisy or dangerous working conditions, as they would today. They took pride in the strength of their own arms, and in their own knowledge and common sense. Though it was often unsaid, I think that most of them felt appreciation for being in on such marvellous undertakings [as most heavy industry is, as one realizes when one begins to learn about it]. They liked the expression of power in what they were doing, converting Nature to their own designs, and also the vivid drama of such things as pouring molten steel, and shaping the forgings in the great hammer mills. Thanks for your interest - I've enjoyed remembering. Carry on with your own fascinating work and lives, and good luck!

[@famillebussieres-mainville4831]

Always very exciting to see an engine being started for the first time in a long time. Congratulations on your newest acquisition Tim!

[@WayOutWestx2]

Thank you very much!

[@john3Lee]

I have no reason what so ever for having one of these - but I still want one !!

[@broekspijp41]

I have a 1963 Lister LD1 and also have to hand crank start. Not sure how heavy yours is but the trick that does it for me is to keep cranking when you flip the compression lever and pull it trough 1 or 2 compression strokes. Just before you flip it brace yourself and put just a bit of extra power into it. Also just get it spinning very fast beforehand so the fly wheel punches it trough the compression. Basicly, faster and stronger is what the video tells me.

[@WayOutWestx2]

You're right - but it's hard going, isn't it?

[@broekspijp41]

@@WayOutWestx2 Mine has a prime cup. A hole that allows to squirts some oil into the cilinder, this really helps. But yes, initially it's hard going just really make the flywheel spin hard so it punches trough.

[@Tavok22]

There are special sprays to start a cold engine. And when I learned to deal with very old diesel engines in the army I think there was the advice to mix some gasoline to diesel for a better start. But this was 20 years ago - maybe I remember wrong.

[@marcchandail7244]

I do That too. It works well for Starting up a Diesel traktor engines in wintertime

[@kalluop7930]

@@marcchandail7244 hai

[@Kittyintheraiyn]

No advice, but I gave an audible whoop! when it started the first time, I hope you can suss out the problems, can't wait to see the continuation of your projects, Tim!

[@milujemelegendy]

Nice motor, greetings from Czech Republic 👍

[@WayOutWestx2]

: - )

[@jerrygaguru]

You book should have cold weather start instruction on how to heat combustion chamber diesel has a much higher combustion temperature than gasoline. That’s the reason why most modern diesel have a glow plug that gets the chamber to that temperature there should be something in your manual for cold weather starts and if you follow those instructions and regular weather it will make it start faster also. As suggested in the comments burning rags or using a Electric or propane charcoal starter or a little propane torch to get the Chambers give it up to temperature 52 ° to 92° Celsius, I did make lamps for this purpose in the day and they generally take about 10 minutes to get to temperature. Double check your weights of all this usually doesn’t use modern style lol it could be anywhere from a 30 to 90 weight oil. Too thick of oil could be slowing down your ability to crank it. And most times there was a different role for grazing the barons are desperate or for the crankshaft and then there may be some grease fittings also each one of these will be a different weight. Synthetics will probably add to the life of it but you’ll probably need to go 10 to 30 weight above from what suggested to get the same requirements. How’s that for a dual oil that is half regular and half synthetic is 5 to 15 weight about suggested Weight.

[@WayOutWestx2]

There's just no way to heat the head, unfortunately.

[@jerrygaguru]

@@WayOutWestx2 There has to be a spark of some kind and that’s where you heated up at

[@jakes3767]

Hi Tim, just saw your video on the starting of an old Banford. I have farmed with one running my waterpump for irrigation. Every thing went well while trying to start. Yes a lot of poeple commented to turn the handle after flipping the decompresion handle, that is the right way. I can hear the sqeeking sound of the injector that indicates that the fuel presure is there. My suggestion is to check the injector nozzle, my view is that the injector nozzle is not making the spray mist as required that is why you suffer to start it. The injector nozzle when tested needs to make a spray mist, if i remember correctly as my father tought me (that is at about 110 bar presure test), but when doing the setting as soon as the injector started mist spraying it will be fine(just do the test 2 or 3 times to be sure) . I do believe if you fix the injector nozzle it will start so much easier

[@WayOutWestx2]

we took it off and watched it make a beautiful spray pattern though

[@rogerbarton497]

I'm glad you're going to put it to use. I would endorse the remarks about positioning your thumb and keeping cranking once the decompressor is closed.

[@TimsBitsnPieces]

Tim, it's great to see you have an old diesel engine there and I can't wait to see what you attach to it in time. With too much technology these days it's nice to see these old things coming to life and being used as they were originally designed for.

[@lv_woodturner3899]

As others have mentioned, starting the diesel is not easy without glow plugs or the burning rag on the air intake, something to heat up the air. The diesel cycle is based on adiabatic compression of the air and diesel mixture. If the cylinder and surrounding metal parts are cold, the heat from the adiabatic compression of the mixture will be absorbed in the metal and make it difficult to get the mixture to burn. All the "almost" starts contributed to warming up the metal and then eventually you were able to get this started. Good luck with the learning curve. The engine is an oldie-but-goodie. I look forward to seeing this in action in the future. Dave.

[@clivelee4279]

Keep cranking when you drop the decompression lever. When you get your lineshaft set up, belt a dynamo to it, run it as a motor with batteries and you have a starter motor.

[@WayOutWestx2]

Yes! That could work too

[@johnstephen7557]

It's waking up😂 Whow that was exciting boys!! It's a thing of rare beauty.

[@akdenyer]

This engine used a patent from my old Company RN Diesel Engine Co. Ltd. I personally made a liner for one of these. This type of combustion chamber is known as a Cloresetory Combustion chamber. We also made a conrod for it and supplied a new piston. We only finished making them in Daventry in 2010. Look up Russell Newbery. and RN Diesel Engine Co. Ltd. I was Engineering Director.

[@WayOutWestx2]

Thanks, Allister - interesting!

[@summerwood619]

Congratulations on your new toy, can’t wait when you add your contraptions😍Gilbert, Arizona

[@mytube8630]

I have an old cement mixer (60’s or 70’s I think ,definitely pre 80’s ) with a Lister engine and-a starting system the same as your engine has . I turn the handle one handed and continue to turn after you release the compression lever , a couple of turns and once the engine starts the handle frees itself . Health and safety wouldn’t allow the likes of it to be used on a building site , now . Was left lying for years and I started it last October with only three or four attempts . Diesel single cylinder engines outlast any body there put on. Great engines .

[@hellzs]

some times these older engines have a spot for a candle to preheat the cylinder/head. there is good news it dose puch back on the cold starts meaning it still have good compression

[@FrontierlessCraftsman]

Looks great Tim, keep her lit hai!

[@WayOutWestx2]

That's the plan!

[@scottwolf303]

Use an inexpensive heat gun to warm the air intake for a few minutes before starting, continue to apply warm air into the intake hole area when starting. Should start right up. PS: Not to much heat, some heat guns can produce 800 degree F air.

[@TheBuccy]

We used to burn an oliy rag on a piece of wire as a preheater..

[@klompex100]

Beatiful! I love old Engines 👍 greetings From Germany 🇩🇪

[@WayOutWestx2]

Thank you very much!

[@davidquirk8097]

We used to crank the engine over thirty or so revs, slowly, to put a bunch of fuel into the cylinder (that squeak you hear every other rev is the fuel coming out of the injector) then we used to go full tilt and try to start the engine. This is equivalent to pushing in the excess fuel button on the side of the fuel pump on old tractors. You get a big gout of black smoke for a short while but it clears pretty quickly. That was on an old Lister engine. As regards the lube oil make sure you use the grade listed in the handbook. Some older engines burn through multigrade oil really quickly but run forever on monograde oil. Another thought for starting, of the weather is cold you may find it easier to start the engine of you hold a blowlamp next to the air inlet during cranking to heat up the intake air.

[@WayOutWestx2]

Thanks, David. I'm learning!

[@JW-bd7em]

It looks so excited to be running again 😊

[@steveparker1466]

Interesting footnote to Bamford's of Uttoxeter is that when one of the family came up with the idea of using a hydraulic bucket loading attachment on a tractor the rest of the family said it would never sell. Undeterred by this the family member decided to setup on his own. When it came to naming the company obviously he couldn't use Bamford so he used his initials instead. His name was Joseph Cyril Bamford and hence JCB was born. JCB did try to take over Bamford's in the late 60's however this was rejected by the board and they went into liquidation in the early 70's while JCB went from strength to strength and now has several massive plants still in the Uttoxeter area.

[@matthewlivergood9624]

It looks like it came out of a Wallis and Gromit cartoon! Especially the way it jumps off the ground.

[@dksfollies4772]

In addition to all the advices given i would like to add that in modern diesel fuel you must have to add some petrol and kerosene to make it able to start easily and run smoothly not heavily . Plus adding some vegetable oil to the concoction also helps in lubrication . So the thing i have seen in old large static engines here is people add 10cc of petrol and 10 cc of kerosine along with 50 cc of vegetable oil per liter of diesel and it eases startups and runs more smoothly . I hope this helps

[@anenigmawrapped]

Hmmm. I did notice that for the first successful start it was the first time that you held the decompression handle and moved it positively to 6 o’clock - rather than spinning it. That said, that technique did not work on the second day....

[@michaelhartzell9758]

I was gonna say the exact same thing.

[@louisl.8724]

Look at the picture of the starting handle in the book, it is not in the same place that you have it. Maybe mount it to a concrete pad so that it will not move, with some rubber pads between it and the pad. Also it looks like you need some longer hoses for water tank and fuel tank.

[@WayOutWestx2]

Thanks, but this decompressor lever has been repaired in the past, which is why it seems back to front.. You could be right about the pads though

[@Doitgood52]

Yes I think a concrete pad/platform is needed for running, but starting you need to keep cranking it after you flip the decompression lever, otherwise it’s not going to have the power to start. The other way to start it would be to use an electric or air compressor ratchet gun and once she fires just take the gun off the cranking shaft.

[@stevesavage8784]

@@WayOutWestx2 Don't put rubber pads, bolt it down straight onto a concrete block, with a mounting grout to hold it. Rubber will bounce and snap your mounting bolts. I also thought rubber was a good idea under my lister, turns out not.

[@goodmanboattransport3441]

A little bit of motor oil in the cylinder will help to light off the diesel fuel earlier than without. I was in charge of the emergency equipment, and we had a 5 hp diesel generator, this was the instructions for hand crank starting. Perhaps a mixture of oil into the fuel will make cold starts easier but would add to the cost of fuel. I think 2 squirts from a hand oiler into the cylinder should do the trick. Cheers from America, I love these old big engines

[@WayOutWestx2]

thank you - you mean past the inlet valve?

[@goodmanboattransport3441]

@@WayOutWestx2 Yes, a squirt or to into the combustion chamber, perhaps it will require more for this larger cylinder. The 5hp engine had a small metal rod that pulled out, fill the hole with motor oil and plunge the rod in, made a big difference, I tried it both ways to see for myself, and I learned something, now I'll pass it on to you. 🙂 Cheers mate

[@mischef18]

Nice one guys, this was very interesting. Safe travels up your your way

[@albertschultz7151]

Fantastic. You guys really had fun.

[@stevemallin4037]

Put the compression lever down into position don’t slap it turn it . An Irish Englishman from Oregon maybe this will help good luck nice machine

[@johnmilnes8427]

Read most of the comments, all good especially about the risk to your thumb. When first turning the engine listen for the creak or groan from the injector opening, heard it first time when it blew smoke. When you blead the fuel pump you then need to open the injector pipe at the injector and crank it till the fuel comes out. It's easier to clear the air this way. Note you did nor PRIME the engine as per manual. Do this before each start and it will be easier to start.

[@christophermarshall5765]

I love watching these engines of yesteryear run!!

[@Tylerharrell64]

When you are starting the engine you need to know when the engine is at TDC and move the lever to run right as you are approaching TDC and that should allow the engine to fire easier. But as these big old engine depend on the weight of their wheels to make it through compression the faster you can keep it turning before you switch it to run the better. Very cool.

[@tigermanmccool4037]

Do you think one of the flywheels is miss match putting out of balance? To me it seem like it was jumping around a lot

[@stick0035]

The one lunger that put a scar in the middle of forehead was a Lister of some description and the instructions I was given was to keep turning the handle till it fired but be careful of the kickback, which thought I understood. Anybody who has had their forehead ventilated knows it bleeds like a stuck pig, added that we were flooded in, so couldn't get to a doctor and it wept all weekend till we got back to Sydney where I immediately went to hospital to have it seen too. The larger anesthetic which was liberally consumed had an adverse effect on the real stuff and sent me off on cloud cuckoo which meant an overnight stay for observation. Moral of the story as in life "keep grinding but watch for the kickback".

[@WayOutWestx2]

Oh man! I'll take that on board, for sure

[@Dave5843-d9m]

We had Lister diesel pumps at my first job. Starting meant opening the decompressor and hand cranking as fast as possible then let go and drop the valve lifter. The flywheel takes it over compression and off it goes. We used easy start in cold weather. Starting the squirt before dropping the valve lifter. It worked 9/10 of the time.

[@yenoh243]

I’m sure Henry could assist with starting 🙂 I’ve seen people use air motors and a solid rubber wheel on the flywheel. Might save you from doing yourself an injury!

[@larrystrayer8336]

I have helped in restoring several hit/and miss engines in the USA. Most were gas but a few were diesel. And I we used kerosene as fuel which is light diesel. Tractor fuel or Disulate fuel was used in carburetor engines after it had reached operating temp. I enjoyed seeing y’all start it. Today’s diesel is injected at high pressure. Into a high compression cylinder. I would guess that British equivalent of kerosene would have it purring. The injector may need cleaning.

[@rebekahfrench5747]

Need a concrete slab to pin it to.. make it big n solid..

[@JohnSmith-pl2bk]

Originally Lister recommended a 1 ton block of concrete as the base...and isolated from the rest of the shed floor....otherwise it turned the shed into an acoustic box...like a guitar. And the exhaust....run it through a 55 gallon drum buried and full of large rocks...

[@michalmitcheson6366]

What a wonderful machine! Its hilarious how much it jumps around when running!

[@Allan_aka_RocKITEman]

FWIW: Back when I was living in South Florida, USA -- from 1988 to 1995 -- I once went to a kind of fair in Homestead {which is south of Miami}. There were old engines and machines on display, including several _"Hit-and-Miss"_ engines. Some were running. I had NEVER seen or heard engines like that before.

[@djcb4190]

First time looking up at the engine with various settings and uses.

[@JamesCouch777]

Now that is the quintessential antique engine 👍 awesome

[@danhard8440]

there is a place near me that has a half dozed of those old land rovers parked out in front of it i drool every time i go past lol

[@epilotdk]

If you need help with the engine, Internal Fire museum in Wales might be able ot hook you up with someone who has knowledge about Bamford engines. I used to own a smaller model when we lived in UK as well as other stationary engines. Nice to se one being put to use. BTW; Lister D engines are used on 7 1/4" locomotives.

[@parcydwr]

Yes, Paul is very knowledgable

[@WayOutWestx2]

thank you - I'll do just that if we can't figure things out

[@zzota]

You could try following the instructions: "After 2 or 3 turns, lower the decompression lever to "RUN" position ". You've stopped turning when the decomp is released. It needs a bit of help to get past the first compression stroke.

[@Engineman-Jack]

100% correct! Just had a message from somebody on 1 of my videos asking what they we're doing wrong. Hit the nail on the head with this one

[@paulkurilecz4209]

Might want to bleed the high pressure line from the injection pump to the injector.

[@gusgone4527]

We will soon need all of these old engines again, if the russians turn off the fuel supply. Can that beast run on "wood gas?"