First use of the Devil-Forge

[@lenblacksmith8559]

You know you've got your air adjuster up top on top of the burner, the round disc, you screw it up or down to let more air in, that's how you get the desired air gas mixture. Yeah I know they didn't give very good instructions. On the bit of paper I got with mine they recommended working pressure, 0,01MPa =1,45 psi =0.098Atm whatever all that means. they also say open air choke about 8mm. Hope that helps a bit.

[@adyengle]

Thank you

[@dyoung2437]

That forge is turning cherry red on top and if I remember correctly this forge is only 16 gage so it won't last very long.

[@doberman74]

hello, the reason I do not check the metal any more is down the the fact I have heat treated so many knives at this point, as well as a Damascus making course. This has gained me the experience needed to be able to know what stage the steel is by colour alone, with time you will begin to realise the same. Its very consistent and the method used for thousands of years. But you are doing the right thing by checking with the magnet, and I did the same for a long time myself

[@doberman74]

Yeah, I need to work out how to best soak the blades, this is going to be through practice. This was the cheapest model and the only one I could afford, but feel it will be a very efficient tool once fully mastered, thanks again for the advice my friend

[@aussie.bushcraftsurvival9606]

You should have RECIEVED a bag of ceramic powder , with it , you add water to it and paint it over the insulation inside . This helps protect the insulation , making it last longer , reduces gasses burning off the insulation etc and I dare say , stop the top of your burner getting cherry red so fast . Also did you pack the spare insulation around the burner hole ? :) some brothers have even suggested to paint the ceramic over the stuff packed in around the burner hole as well and give it a good 2 weeks to dry and get the water out of the ceramic coating , before the first firing :) There's vids on KZbin , showing how to mix and paint on the ceramic coating over the insulation . It's pretty straight forward .

[@soa1]

Two weeks good to know I saw on another vid that said 24 hrs . So also good to get more info from different sources , thanks

[@GreenJeepAdventures]

This was an older model. Only in more recent times have the shipped the powder.

[@arcturusbbqsausagemaking2435]

lay your blade flat in the forge until its cherry red or until a magnet doesnt stick than immediately quench in oil, I have the same forge

[@picawawa]

Andy, I would suggest you normalize at least once before the quench. Also, you can close off the air a bit until you start to get a yellow flame licking just outside the forge. That will generally get the forge to the proper temp for final quench. The heat you are running at is more for forging than heat treating. I use a magnet to determine the right temperature. With the air choked off a little and the yellow flame coming out you can get the blade to the right temp and not over heat it.

[@FT4Freedom]

Close off the space around the burner with wool to prevent overheating the top welds. Use fire bricks for front and back doors with small opening. Then you will likely be able to reach yellow weld temps. Also install ceramic shield on your wool such as ITC 100 HT to keep the heat properly reflected inside the forge. Apply rigidizer before the ceramic coating. Let both layers dry thoroughly before applying next layer. This forge will weld with proper treatment.

[@doberman74]

I thought that myself about the warping but this was 1/4" thick stock so was not overly concerned on this occasion. I need to spend some time learning the combination of pressure and air/fuel mix to get an optimum between soaking and final heating. I dont really use a magnet anymore as I have heat treated so many knives now I can tell the temperature visually with good accuracy, although if its a high end knife for someone I still check

[@doberman74]

thank you, I actual;l;y plan to get some 6mm steel plate and make a box once I have a welder. I had a look for the itc-100 but could not find any imediate suppliers within the UK, tomorrow I will dig deeper. I saw some reduced price fire bricks the other day but was not sure if I could cut and drill them without cracking them. The vid I have just uploaded shows a piece of railway track to block the back. I need it to get hot enough to forge weld so once the box is built the rest will follow ;)

[@doberman74]

Thank you very much, that is the info I am looking for. I think with some practice this is going to be a very good tool. I completed a damascus making course last year so on the lookout for an anvil now. as far as the magnet goes, I trust my judgement of colour really well after heat treating a lot of steel now. I still use one 'just in case' though on the custom knives

[@ygallac357]

You have had it for three years plus now how has it held up? Have you found cold spots? Have you tried putting angle iron on the ends by welding and stacking fire brick on the ends with small spacing to allow the gasses to escape but hold in the heat better? I was concerned with the gauge of the sheetmetal and how the nozzle holder on the forge and the body of the forge turned red and the potential of the weight of the nozzle along with the length or leverage might distort or pull down and also if the hot and cold cycles have cause the carbon to burn out at that same spot and fatigued or cracked? Have been able to make damascus with as you stated. Has the refractory held up to flux? Any additional thoughts and or comments opinions on the little Devil Forge would be great. Get well soon!!!!! Your brother in steel🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘

[@Andersbork]

Cool blades! If you close up the back and leave a gap so you get some flow still through the top of the tube with fire resistant brick you will get a bit more even heat. You will have to play around with it to get it to work but it will save on fuel and make it heat more even. Edgnsuk said the rest.

[@paulcorbeil4364]

Hi Mr. Look at the back of the Devil - Forge, you have a nice spray can to close of the Devil-Forge, it is dangerous to explose with the heat of the burner. 2020 02 10 Saint-Joseph de Mékinac, Trois-Rives, Québec et Labrador.

[@Tjolbi]

Impressive little thing, seems to work quite fast too.

[@Jim-Wade]

Cover that kayowool with refractory cement. You don't want to breath the small filaments that shed from it.

[@ygallac357]

DK, first thing I would like to say is I hope your are healing well and expected to have a full recovery. I ride too and no matter how careful you are it seems like more times than not it's the other guy that gets you. Sorry you are going through this. Thanks to You Tube's algorithm that selects videos you might like based on previously viewed videos they turned me on to you👍 I recently came across the Devil Forge and just watched your video of your first impression first use video. I subscribed to your channel and plan on viewing (total binge watch is what it will turn out to be😜) all your videos specially your other videos on the forge. Have to edit length of this comment. Will continue in further comments.

[@doberman74]

thank you so much, this is the advice I am looking for. Any suggestions on how to accurately use the air/fuel mix valve to the best efficiency?

[@probablyscience4112]

How long does your average tank of propane last before you need to refuel it?

[@doberman74]

it runs on both but I chose propane as it burns hotter and wont freeze

[@doberman74]

Im gonna weld a box together approx 14" long and 6" square out of 6mm (1/4"ish) steel, then use the existing jet. Will line it with better materials and make a hinged rear door so longer blades can run through it. Once I buy more jets I will be able to add extensions to it, the box will be strong enough to allow this, I want to be able to make small damascus billets (I did a course last year) but also want to be able to heat treat wakizashi sized choppers. Need to find a way of holding blades to

[@masonrichards9020]

put some firebrick behind the forge and the heat won't get out (a little bit will). Does this forge take bottled propane?

[@solobushcraft1]

That looks the job Sir, like the sound,like the sound of a jet are the FIRES OF HELL. Is it only cooker gas. Andrew

[@hiseminencetheholymacdiarmada]

It seems to me that this would be more efficient if the ends were closed off to keep more heat in??

[@leviblackwood3258]

John McDermott yes just take some firebrick and make doors with them

[@namentatic4978]

This is common sense, but this guy still introducing that job

[@doberman74]

they sell the valves on there website

[@ChuckRichardsHandmadeKnives]

Isn't there some kind of rack you can put in there?

[@doberman74]

They are very easy to get just need to raise some cash first. Although I have been warned that closing off the ends of the tube can cause an explosion

[@boriskarloff598]

Is your record player stuck or does Gene Kroopa or woody woodpecker reside in your shop?

[@SlvrChkn]

I've made a couple of knives this way already. They turned out great. Don't take this wrong way, I'm still learning. Is there a reason you didn't check the the magnetism before you quenched it? Or did you do that off camera and i missed it? If you didn't check is there another way to check reaching the critical temp without a magnet? I appreciate the help!

[@SOOBL]

aren't you suppose to hammer it to the desired shape and then put it in the water to harden it?

[@doberman74]

I have actually completed a damascus making course, all I need is an anvil

[@theorganicmechanic9354]

i was excited just as much as you were to see it go bahaha!

[@coltoncurtis50]

have you been able to forge weld and do you know if I would be able to using a 20lb tank

[@joshuagarrard3859]

It's glowing red the four just glowing red near the gas intake I don't like that

[@jamesball7322]

if you've taken Damascus courses than you know that forge won't reach welding temps.even with the light in the video you can tell you weren't even close to quenching the entire edge

[@skyestar11]

Have you figured it out yet. Ming just came in. I understand the burner but I'm a little lost on the regulator. What number are you using on the regulator? Any help would be great. Also did yours come with the extra insulation and how did ya put it around the burner. Any help would be great. Thanks tommy

[@doberman74]

aaaah, noe I have been warned that closing the back up can potentially cause an explosion. But if you have experience then I will listen

[@johan340]

How is it working now after 3 years?

[@whatsreallygoingon253]

turn the knife around heat the back first then flip it and heat the front helps you get even heat without over heating your tip and making it brittle

[@chuckr786]

I use mine between 10 and 20 psi

[@soa1]

Good to know

[@chuckgray7749]

he needs longer tongs if you put the blade in and handle in it would heat the knife evenly make it less likely to crack in the quench

[@lenblacksmith8559]

Have you got some of the wool around the housing for the burner, it stops the heat coming out there.??

[@doberman74]

its on the inside, and works well enough to turn steel into liquid

[@lenblacksmith8559]

Cool that's good.

[@doberman74]

Although the current iteration is actually two of those jetsm at a 45 degree angle inside a semi sealed 155mm mortar tube. Its so efficient it cant run both jets unless it is very very thick steel.

[@SlvrChkn]

So it's an experience thing, right on brother! Thanks a lot, hopefully some day I'll be that good.

[@markhammer2357]

I've been looking at getting this same forge. What is your long term opinion on it? I primarily want it for normalizing and HT.

[@Pasdechevredreamer]

Hi, You've held this forge three years, how do you rate it for heat treating O1 steel? Cheers

[@shootinnscootin5545]

I just fired up my Devil's forge for the first time today and the flames kept shooting out of each end instead of a nice straight jet. I bought a new regulator for it because I couldn't find a way to make the original one work. It's a 0 to 30 psi regulator and I'm not sure if it has enough psi to make a good jet flame or if I'm just doing something wrong. Also I wasn't able to get the air choke on top open. I guess that could have a lot to do with the problem. I'm new to forging so I'm not exactly sure and the instructions that came with the forge aren't very helpful.

[@doberman74]

a good burn is all to do with the air/gas ratio, the choke is definitely the problem

[@shootinnscootin5545]

Doberman Knives Right on!

[@hannefalch8497]

Hi Phil, how did it turn out? I seem to have the same problem.

[@shootinnscootin5545]

Hanne Falch Now that I've learned how to work the choke it works great. Loosen the wing nut on top of the burner and turn the choke. It's the white round thing under the wing nut. It adjusts. Devil's forge made a new video on how they work. Best of luck!

[@hannefalch8497]

Thanx Phil, I went out in the garage after reading this yesterday and adjusted the Choke. Success! I think I read somewhere that the choke should be closed when firing it up..Such great anticipation the first time :D Had my first session! Until I get the hang of it I start the forge with a lit piece of paper, choke open slightly and turn the gas on.. powff

[@mbbailout]

Try quenching them in oil.......its a lot better than water......makes for a stronger blade.......so I was taught

[@doberman74]

The steel is O1, the 'O' designates Oil so that was oil I was quenching them in

[@Showmethetrail]

+Doberman Knives So what would you quench A1 steel in?

[@ubiquidic9823]

O1 is a type it doesnt apply to every type of steel

[@jague2u]

You don't quench A1. That's an air hardening steel. O is oil, A is air, and W is water.

[@smokeymtnforge7444]

Yes I would be very careful burnin it long periods. Or adding another layer of kawool to it. 2" thick. Keep it from heating up around burner. Dangerous. Be safe. Happy hammering

[@shootinnscootin5545]

I just bought my devil's Ford recently but unfortunately I can't use it because the regulator doesn't connect to American propane tanks and I was wondering if you had that same problem and if so what regulator you bought to make it work? I would really appreciate any information!

[@oldhairpin]

Go on their ebay page buddy and they have all the information you need with photos of the part you need :-)

[@brendonmoore1619]

Phil Hand A little bit or research goes a long way.

[@doberman74]

you just know il be making damascus this summer!!

[@Grummash]

Lovely/scary new bit of kit - but I was kind of expecting a blast of Crazy World of Arthur Brown. Yes, I know - I'm a fucking old hippie...so sue me :-) Anyway, it might be worth asking Scott where he got his offcuts of kiln shelves, as you could use some of those to extend the back of the tube, or to control how the hot gas/flames vent out of the back.

[@doberman74]

its worth EVERY penny

[@fiends617]

that thing kicks so much ass!

[@terryblishak9782]

And the dubstep

[@doberman74]

its gonna take some trial and error but will be a very usefull tool

[@doberman74]

I'm gonna make one soon

[@ChuckRichardsHandmadeKnives]

That is the shizznit

[@thatsplenty19]

does it use a lot of gas ?

[@doberman74]

no, not at all. I ended up making a bigger version out of a mortar tube and added another jet. Still doesn't use much really

[@thatsplenty19]

just looks a lot, did u see that Damascus knife made from a bike chain. metal porn

[@TheMrJonesie]

Would you recommend this forge? Is it a good forge? Can you heat treat in a forge like this or not? Thanks!

[@doberman74]

absolutely, it is a very competent forge for a learner or someone only making smaller knives. I would suit having the back blocked off, I have made some HUGE knives in this little thing but it took some doing... smaller knives no problem, and you could get it to welding temp with a little knowledge and experience

[@AdoreYouInAshXI]

2:40 lol thats a great way to burn the shit out of yourself

[@doberman74]

sounds like a jet engine

[@doberman74]

haha, I didn't but the brand drew my attention for the name alone... And my trolls will love it :)

[@Knifewizz]

Good stuff man

[@garrettbarlo7807]

You really shouldn't put the blade strait up and down

[@doberman74]

if held sideways there is a 90% chance it warps, held vertically it never does

[@garrettbarlo7807]

I was told that heating a blade like that doesn't get an even heat...my bad

[@doberman74]

Garrett Barlo Constant precise movement and learning the colours should keep the HT even

[@garrettbarlo7807]

That's for clarifying that for me ;)

[@terryblishak9782]

Dig the hardcore!

[@doberman74]

will do when Im making damascus ;)

[@doberman74]

this is a cool thing

[@kaziklu79]

Cool!

[@Knifewizz]

Good

[@doberman74]

and thank you ;)

[@kaziklu79]

:D Well, at least at the beggining of the vid it was cool.

[@digsfossils]

Oh no you called it the devil forge... this vid will be banned in the UK. Goot luck with the forge bro!

[@markusnyhamnhersvik1647]

*can't not can'tc

[@mrPauljacob]

fun fun

[@markusnyhamnhersvik1647]

Why do peapole write can't instead of can'tc

[@doberman74]

yeah, lol :)

[@doberman74]

hot! :)

[@fioenz]

J'ai la même forge, et je ne vois pas à quoi sert le manomètre, que j'ouvre ou ferme le robinet du manomètre il n'y a aucune différence... De plus, j'ai du mal à contrôler une température désirée... Genre, si je veux que ma lame monte à 850 degrés je fait comment ? Merci