Fish Room HUGE LEAK - Lessons Learned (Water Everywhere)

In this video I share the recent leaking failure of the check valve in my fish room automatic water change system, along with my lessons learned. If you have any questions at all, feel free to email me at [e-mail] and be sure to subscribe to see more amazing aquarium videos!
HYDROSEAL Sharkfellow 3/4’’ PVC True Union Ball Check Valve:
www.amazon.com...
PVC Union Pipe Fittings:
www.amazon.com...
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[@WOW_AQUATICS]

Dude. I have one of those..THANK YOU! By the way ..I love my merch..2 hats and decal

[@FoisyAquatics]

Loveeee to see it, thank you!!!

[@MacJank7]

I’ve always heard if you don’t flood it at least once it’s not a real fish room…I’ve done it twice in six months. The first time I was gravity feeding a tank into a bucket and started cleaning another tank, got distracted and let the bucket overflow for probably five minutes. The second time the fill hose for water changes fell off the top of my reservoir and gravity fed pure RO until the next evening when I went to feed. I saw water running out from under the door to the outside and knew before I walked in… Thanks for making me feel better!

[@FoisyAquatics]

Glad I can be a confidence booster LOL! We never stop learning in this hobby!

[@randomman4938]

If you haven't forgotten a tank refilling (or draining) at least once, then you probably only have 1 tank and its a goldfish bowl. Happens to all of us.

[@jamesmaloney001]

The water/flood sensor should go directly on the floor perhaps at the low spot where water will accumulate/puddle first. The sump lid will be higher than the actual floor and water will drain into the sump before triggering the sensor. Nice rack setup.

[@mbroome]

What is the reason for putting in a check valve on that side of the system? It's not like your going to have a chance of having back pressure on the aquarium side of the system. That's after the sprinkler valve so once the water is shut off at the sprinkler valve, the remaining pressure is going to bleed off into the tanks so there won't be any pressure on the down stream side of the check valve.

[@FoisyAquatics]

You know, to be completely honest with you it probably isn't even needed like you say. The only reason I added it was because the system I partially based mine off of also included one.

[@MW-ut3dk]

Back flow valve is not necessary and just another point of possible leakage. Nothing should backflow as mentioned above. Just like backflow valves on a sump return pump in all drilled tanks-shouldn’t be necessary if the return pipe is not too far below tank water level. KISS is the golden rule😅

[@ronyerke9250]

90 or more p.s.i. water supply sounds pretty high to me. Around here, water well pumps are closer to 40 p.s.i. in residential applications, and 60 p.s.i. for commercial. As far as I know, only fire hydrants use higher pressure.

[@FoisyAquatics]

Yeah that was more just a general range, though I assume mine is closer to 40psi (I've never actually measured it)

[@dwaynesykes694]

100psi on municipal water isn't uncommon. I have a PRV because mine runs ~80-110. PRV knocks it down to 50psi, pressure drop through POE filter system leaves it at ~45psi at design flow (i.e. highest anticipated flow; worst-case scenario). And most importantly, no sharkbites and no Amazon (rebranded Aliexpress) plumbing fittings...