EPOXY HAZARD!! DON'T LET THIS MESS UP YOUR EPOXY PROJECT!

[@FishBumpTV]

We have made Patreon ( www.patreon.com/FishBumpTv ) available for members who are interested in consultations on their projects. Thank you for your support!

[@lectro88]

Joe, Its been a while since I have commented. But I wanted to say Thank You, very much. Kinda like how you mention your appreciation for us viewers I am not a beginner or a professional, But I as have said in other comments, I tend to over-do or take the time and effort needed to obtain a better than industry standard in most everything I do, This tends to make my projects slow and drawn out, But it's satisfaction or therapeutic for me. Thank you again.

[@FishBumpTV]

That means a lot to me! I truly appreciate you taking the time to comment and I wish you the very best with your projects, even if you like taking your time and overbuillding things a bit!

[@chrome-andy]

I came from the UK recently and drove from Cedar Key to Mobile on Highway 98. Such a very, very pretty part of the world you live in.

[@FishBumpTV]

Very cool, you should have stopped by our boat shop for a visit! We would love to visit the UK 🇬🇧 someday. Thanks so much for watching and commenting

[@MitchCrumley-is2fq]

I’ve run into that problem and come to find out I went the wrong direction. Thanks for straightening me out.

[@FishBumpTV]

Glad the video was helpful, and thanks for watching!

[@gfunkHP]

Was really happy to see the other examples pointed out. Hoping to one day try my hand at a stitch and glue build!!!

[@FishBumpTV]

You should do it! There are many great models out there. We may even offer plans or kits to our own skiffs some day. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@r52euphoria]

Joe, thanks for all the tips. I’m gonna be building a 12’ x 20’ hard top for our yacht in May and your info is invaluable. Thanks for your videos, Vancouver Island, Canada

[@FishBumpTV]

Glad to help, that sounds like an interesting project! Best of luck

[@r52euphoria]

@@FishBumpTV thanks, going on top of our 1978 70’ Hatteras

[@jerryc1491]

I had know Idea that much residue is left once the epoxy has cured. Nice tip! Would live to see a transom replace on a pleasure cruiser with an out drive. Thanks for the videos Joe.

[@FishBumpTV]

Great suggestion! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!

[@ewjorgy]

Great advice! Thank you and all the best from California! 🧡

[@FishBumpTV]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!

[@EllsworthJohnson-ui1xm]

Thanks again for another easily understood great technical point

[@FishBumpTV]

Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for watching!

[@froggycellis007]

Really great info. I would have been tempted to just knock it off with sandpaper. Thanks!

[@FishBumpTV]

Glad to help!

[@jimmyghersi]

I would really enjoy watching you make a little pirogue! Great content on today’s video, I didn’t know that information

[@FishBumpTV]

Glad you enjoyed it! And thanks for the suggestion!

[@blackdogproductions2044]

THis is fascinating. I hate the blush. Began about 20 years ago working with epoxy at a boatyard. Not a soul at the yard was aware you can wash the blush off like this. ALways sanded it off. Later I continued doing more glass work on my own and the way I dealt with the blush was always using chop mat as the top layer of my work then sanding it. The mat sands to a great finish as a sacrificial layer on top of the cloth. Then, I discovered Peel n Ply. That was an absolute game changer. Been using Peel Ply ever since. Actually I've never used the Peel Ply product but instead the same material sold by Paxton as a vacuum bagging membrane. Same stuff. Works amazing. Another expensive layer of stuff to throw in the mix though. It might be about the same cost as paying to scrub or sand a bunch of glass though. I'm going to give scrubbing with detergent a try. I am skeptical because I don't understand how you're supposed to know whether or not you got all the blush off or not? Also, isn't the surface going to be slick and still require sanding? On a piece like that stringer/transom mock up I'd of tried to do the entire lay up all at once. There by eliminating dealing with blush and prep and all that. I would have gone right on with the cloth soon as the fillet was down while the epoxy coat on the wood was still wet. If possible that is.

[@FishBumpTV]

Thanks for your thought, all good points! A lot of the folks watching the channel are new to working with composites, so some of what we are doing is going to be following the KISS principle. Keep it simple Sam. Hoping to build a foundation of knowledge for the folks, then branching out to more methods. Mat or csm on top can work, but then lots of sanding after cure. That is tougher than wiping with soap and water then scotchbrite in my opinion. Peel ply is also a good option, but it adds cost to the project. You could certainly sand or scuff up the water and soap prepped surface with some sandpaper, and we probably will before we finish the part.There are also epoxy resins on the market that do not blush at all if you can believe it, but west systems is probably going to be the most commonly used epoxy for the average DIYer, so that is why we are using it. I hope this helps answer some of your questions, and I truly appreciate you watching and commenting!

[@stevejackson4136]

When I built my 16’ Glen-L runabout using there 5/1 ratio epoxy, it had the blush. On my current Checkmate redo, I am using US Composites 2/1 slow epoxy. Long work time and no blush. Love your videos

[@FishBumpTV]

Yes, we are going to be testing some 2 to 1 epoxy soon. We have used some blush free epoxy in the past with good success, but the west is very popular and it blushes. Thanks for watching!

[@stevejackson4136]

@@FishBumpTV I was very pleased with US Composites. They are in Fl so it would be close to you. Good prices I felt.

[@FishBumpTV]

@@stevejackson4136 Good to know, thanks!

[@Joe-ku6fy]

Hey Joe, I ordered finish resin with wax in it by mistake, can I laminate multiple layers of glass before it cures or do I need resin with no wax? Thanks for everything man!

[@FishBumpTV]

You should able to lay up or laminate several wet layers. As long a the surface still has a good tack to it you should be good. Beyond that it would need to be sanded thoroughly and prepped well. Hope this helps and thanks for Watching!

[@MarcosCunhaLima]

Joe, thanks a lot for your videos, I am new to this job and I am learnt a lot from them! They're awesome and your patience to explain the details are really helpful.

[@FishBumpTV]

Glad you like them! Thanks so much for the kind words

[@tommysmith5825]

Thanks joe seem sometimes the simplest way is the best instead of over thinking it regards Tommy

[@FishBumpTV]

Absolutely! My Father used to call it the KISS principle. Keep it simple Sam. Thanks for watching and commenting

[@dougrimstad1021]

Great videos.... Shout out to you from a Canadian in the Philippines.

[@FishBumpTV]

Thank you, we really appreciate you watching from the Philippines 🇵🇭!

[@jimclark2824]

Thank you, good sir... 😊

[@FishBumpTV]

Most welcome!

[@Cptnbond]

What are your thoughts on avoiding amino blush on the fillet in the corner? Thus, how long should I wait to lay down the first layer of cloth to avoid the blush when the fillet fully cures?

[@anthonyrstrawbridge]

Good question it'll be great to get the answer. I may have been doing wrong dependant on time and temps within an hour and or slightly tacky to the touch?

[@TheSpadre]

One solution for all amine blush is to put a finish layer of peel-ply over the top of your work. treat it like a layer of fiberglass and try to get all the air pockets out of it. It helps with two things. It leaves a surface good for bonding the next layer, without the need to sand, but it also removes the amine blush.

[@besearchingforwisdom6267]

​@anthonystrawbridge That's the same thing I did on my one previous project, we layered cloth and epoxy resin before the cure time. It seems really good and strong and surprisingly not very thick

[@Cptnbond]

@@TheSpadre True, but that implies you must cure it, remove the peel-ply, and then put the cloth down. I was more interested in whether that was the only way of doing it, or if I could apply cloth after some time (tacky?) to speed things up. I have seen on KZbin DIY to put peel-ply and wait until the next day; others do not seem to worry about the possible fillet blush and ignore it.

[@TheSpadre]

@@Cptnbond Definitely there is more than one way to do it. If it is still tacky you can certainly lay up another layer, however, you can also lay up wet on wet. Using peel-ply is still good to do at the end of the day regardless of what you are planning to do next. It solves the removing blush step, and to lay something down on top of it (more layers of glass, or fairing compound), you will not need to sand it unless you want to lay it flat before moving forward.

[@lou_chicago]

Love the video.Keep up the great work!!!

[@FishBumpTV]

Thank you! Will do!

[@MichaelPrivett-w4b]

Another great video, thanks for the great work

[@FishBumpTV]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@carlvasta840]

Hi. I'm enjoying your content. I've got a mold project built in epoxy and csm. With the powder binder. It has cured 24 hours. Should I do this process to clean up the surface before epoxying things on the outside of piece?

[@FishBumpTV]

Glad you are enjoying the videos! Not all epoxy produces amine blush, but if you are in any doubt about it I will clean and prep it just to be on the safe side. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!

[@zodnanref]

Thanks for the great content! I am restoring an old Day Sailer that had a lot of osmosis, using polyester resin and restoring the holes, now in the fairing process, but I have used some cheap polyester fairing compound in the bottom of the boat, and saw in some of your videos that you don't recommend. Do you think its going to cause problems even in a boat that just go to the water during a day or two and remains the rest of the week dry? Thank you, Fernando from Brazil!

[@FishBumpTV]

Polyester fillers are not usually recommended below the waterline. We like vinyl Ester or epoxy based materials if possible. That is because they are much better as a water barrier compared to Polyester. It might be just fine for light use, and you understand that the blisters could return in those areas. If you have already done most of the work, and don't want to redo it. You might try using an epoxy barrier coat like interlux 2000 over all of the hull bottom after all repairs are done. It usually takes 3 to 5 coats.This could help stop water migration into your repairs. I hope this helps , and thanks for watching all the way from Brazil 🇧🇷!

[@TeacherBrunoOneil]

I did that preparation for bonding polyester on top of an epoxy-based material, whose name I don’t know in English but it’s 80% epoxy plus some additives. It’s some good stuff I had at home and wanted to seat the ply wood with , but now after sanding it , rubbing it like you showed and washing /rinsing it, I am scared it may not create a good bond for the polyester lamination that goes on top of it. I will make some test first , if it doesn’t work on a small part I will have to laminate the fiberglass with epoxy resin ( which is expensive here ) 😢

[@72151]

Joe, have you ever used a product called “Corvette” fiberglass adhesive?

[@FishBumpTV]

No, I have not. Wish I could help

[@eetack]

Can you show us how you cut a stringer to the contour of a hull?

[@FishBumpTV]

That's a great suggestion, I will try to get that in a video for you guys. We use 1/2 or 3/4 thick blue board insulation foam from Lowes or home depot for making our stringer templates or patterns. It is cheap, and very easy to work with compared to your actual stringer material. We also use construction string stretched tight from the transom to the bow where the stringer will end. We mark the string every foot, from the transom to the bow, then measure from the string to the bottom of the boat. Do that from transom to bow, then transfer those measurements to the foam pattern. That will get you pretty close, then just fine tune it and use the pattern to made your actual stringer. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!

[@mattdrake803]

@@FishBumpTVliterally doing stringers to transom now thanks for this

[@bunndyboy]

Great video on blush, I have a question. I ran out of light today and didn't get all my epoxy/basalt finished, do I heed to scuff the surface with a sander before I go in for another round of epoxy/basalt or just wash like in your vid ?

[@FishBumpTV]

Thanks! I usually wash and wipe thoroughly with the scotch Brite pads, let it dry or use a heat gun to speed up the drying process then scuff it well with 80 grit paper to remove any gloss. I cover more of the sanding of the epoxy in the next video in this series. I hope this helps and best of luck with your project!

[@bunndyboy]

@@FishBumpTV thanks mate, I appreciate your knowledge and look forward to the next vid.

[@daleknapke4981]

I am going to do a wet layup of a carbon fiber hood, 4 layers of cloth. How do I know if the epoxy has cured too much between layers such that I have to sand between layers.

[@FishBumpTV]

Sounds like a cool project! Generally as long as the surface still has some "tack" to it, you should be good. Meaning it is still trying to stick to anything that touches it. Amine blush is slick or oily on the other hand, and will repel. I would recommend testing some of your materials first before starting your part. We do testing all of the time with new material or different processes before we build the actual part. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!

[@daleknapke4981]

@@FishBumpTV also after the layup is completed is there any additional strength gained by doing an elevated temperature cure for several hours.

[@thomascarl4721]

Didn't catch the part for another lay up you still need to grind it to add more glass correct

[@FishBumpTV]

After the amine blush removal, I do usually sand the surface before adding more epoxy. I have a new video coming in the next day or two that will detail the whole process. Thanks for watching

[@jimr6281]

@@FishBumpTV QQ - for another layup, after you sand, do you wipe down with acetone before adding another layer of epoxy? Thanks

[@diyoutdoors6675]

How much does the 29 draft? Thanks cap.

[@FishBumpTV]

Around 15 inches with the motors trimmed up. Needs about 30 to run.Thanks for watching!

[@diyoutdoors6675]

@@FishBumpTV Good numbers!

[@alanbutterworth4219]

You didn't really finish off this video or I missed it? Was all the blush gone with the last paper towel wipe down? Thanks very much for making these very useful videos.

[@FishBumpTV]

Yes, in most cases the process I showed will remove the amine blush. Of course if you go through the steps and you suspect that there is still some blush, you can always repeat the steps. I do usually scuff or sand the surface lightly after all the blush is removed, and prior to laying down the fiberglass. I will be showing that in the next phase. Hope this helps and thanks for watching

[@MWGarage]

You mentioned you applied the epoxy a few videos ago. Is there a limit timewise when you can no longer removing the blush?

[@FishBumpTV]

There isn't a time limit to amine blush removal that I am aware of. You might also want to consider the use of peel ply to eliminate amine blush. I recently did a video using this material that you might find useful. I hope this helps and I appreciate you watching!

[@phillippearce9680]

👍

[@Land_an_sea]

I got a terrible blush from the US composites epoxy I bought for my build. Took forever to get it off. Going back to West systems. Buying it by the 4 gallon jug it's cheaper. I didn't save any money if you count your time scrubbing that heavy wax off....

[@FishBumpTV]

Sorry to hear that! Just remember that almost all 4 to 1 or 5 to 1 epoxy systems will produce an amine blush. There are 2 to 1 epoxy systems that don't produce amine blush at all. You might want to consider looking into those. Peel ply is something you should seriously consider using when working with epoxy, as it will completely eliminate amine blush when used correctly. I have a video on how to use peel ply here on the channel that I am sure you will find useful. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!

[@Land_an_sea]

@@FishBumpTV thank you for the advice, do you have a particular brand of 2:1 that you have used and will recommend?

[@FishBumpTV]

@Land_an_sea System 3 makes a good blush free epoxy that I have used before with good success. Fiberglass warehouse also offers a 2 to 1 low blush epoxy. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!

[@JimmyJammer1]

You’re a total badass…. Peace!

[@FishBumpTV]

Haha! Thanks!