Fishing Can Be Challenging - Warning - Don't Do This

[@sme70]

Baitrunner reel 🎣👍

[@howtofish5051]

Yes, that should be Tip 9 ....use a baitrunner and allow the fish to run! ;)

[@61diemai]

I'm an enthusiastic angler here in northern Germany since 1988 and during my angling life I've lost a few rods this way as well. By now I've upgraded all of my rods, that are being used with sinker set-ups, with baitrunner reels , so nothing like this would ever happen again(unless one forgets to engage the free spool). But if one does not have the chance or the means to get new bairunner reels, one can also remain using these ordinary spinning reels employing the following two fishing hacks: For one of these methods it would be essential to use TWO of such "Y" rod rests as seen here in the video, so that the rod would come to rest about parallel to the water's surface. Now it requires a bite indicator called a "monkey climber" , which basically consists of a 40-50cm long metal rod of about 4 millimetres diameter and one pointy end to be poked into the soil somewhere below the reel and handle portion of the resting rod, preferably under a slight angle pointing towards the rear with the blunt , upper end coming to sit straight below the spool. The indicator itsself consists of a piece of plastic tubing like 12 to 16 millimetres in diameter and about 4 to 6cms in length and ha a saw cut under about 30° leading from just below one end downward to leave about 1/4 to 1/3 of the tubing's circumferrence standing, the cut must be cleaned of any plastic chips and the tubing should be of a bright, visible color, a length of colorful tape might help , but leave the saw slot clear. All of this can be easily homemade, I prefer aluminium rods for less weight during transport. Now, after having cast out the sinker rig and having laid the rod down on the two "Y"-rests , one must straighten the line, then pull on the line below the reel to insert the slack into the saw cut in the tubing , that points downward in a way , that the line gets caught beween the metal rod and the tubing's inner wall not to be able to slide out again. By turning on the reel's spool against the drag the line is straightened again , so that the tubing with the line would come to sit onto the upper half of the metal rod poked into the soil. When all is set, the reel's bail must be opened, the tubing should come to sit directly below the spool or just sligthly ahead. If a fish bites now, the line caught between the metal rod and the tubling's inner wall would straighten under the tension of the fish pulling on it and the tubing would thus slide upward , until the saw slot would pass over he upper end of the metal rod to release the line, that can be pulled down by the fish now without any resistance , since the bail of the rod is open. The bite is indicated by the movement of the tubing on the metal rod, at first it naturally slides upward until line realease and afterward it would slide downward on the soil or even get pulled off the metal rod entirely by enthusiastic fish. All left to do now it to take up the rod , close the bail and set the hook. The second way to prevent rod loss is somewhat more simple , as it only requires ONE rod rest as seen and just an rubber-O-ring. That rubber rig is slit over the rod handle , if neccesssary coiled a few times to come to sit firmly an slit up right to the reel's foot. Now, after casting out and having straightened the line , some line is pulled back in by hand and a half loop of line ist fixed underneath the rubber-O-ring and the bail is opened afterwards. A bobbin hung into the line ahead of the lower guide is fine as a bite indicator, a required length of line is alo pulled back in by hand in order to do so. A striking fish would at first pull the bobbin upward and then pull out the line from untderneath the rubber ring to pull down more line freely, ....just don't forget to close the bail before setting the hook. Tight lines to Australia from northern Germany

[@howtofish5051]

Thanks for the advice. I am embarrassed to mention that I already have a full set of carp fishing gear - 12ft 3lb test curve carp rod, 6000 series bait caster reel, double rod bank sticks with alarms, monkey climbers, bolt rigs, hair rigs, camo leads, pva bags, carp hooks...I just stopped using them. Maybe I should start using them again.

[@61diemai]

@@howtofish5051 I'm very familiar to such , as we anglers most likely are some kind of (tackle)collectors as well. Though I do not own such specialized carp gear like you do, since I never was into this special carp angling but rather into lure fishing and stationary allround fishing. Through the decades I've gathered a lot of lure fishing tackle, trout fishing tackle and also a lot of feeder fishing and allround fishing tackle, but now , as I grow older(turning 63 in a week from now), I feel more and more reluctant to carry a lot of tackle to the water's edge. So I packed small rod bags containing four or five small and light 2,40 to 3,00 m teleskopic rods , that do collapse very short and also contain only the absolutely neccessary terminal tackle(especially not too many sinkers) to be able to "travel light" and not having to carry loads of different rods and gear to the water's edge. Around here telescopic rods are quite common and one can even obtain a few models of telescopic feeder rods(but of which the action is comparebly poor). During spring and autumn the days are shorter around here and so there is less time to transport and set up vast amounts of tackle as well, so this is the season, that I especially prefer to travel light. During the longer days of summer I do not mind to carry a bit more and especially more sophisticated tackle, as such surely performs better in many ways than just my telescopic allround rods. But usually I carry a few rod bags with those short telescopic rods in the boot of my car, in case I want to switch fishing methods or to change waters, i. e. to change from ponds to rivers or canals, which surely requires different tackle set-ups. I really hate to be missing some important tackle whilst fishing. Regarding your own carp fishing in Australia, I reckon , that you might not always need such specialized tackle, that carp anglers use here in Europe , since , as far as I've heard , carp are considered to be a pest Down Under, so it won't be that difficult to catch them as it is over here? G'day from northern Germany

[@peteh7966]

Maybe swap out your banksticks for better rod holders or Baitrunner/lighter drag setting. The good thing was you got the outfit back - time for a reel strip down and regrease, maybe?

[@howtofish5051]

Yes, time to strip it down and clean up the gears and bearings

[@margaretthomas8899]

Happened to me Wayne, in Roxby Park, Western Side/ Opposite the Little Jetty. the trees to the left, bits of loose carpet there. Maybe carp? but told Murray Cod has been caught there. and I have caught stonker rainbow trout between the trees, and to the left of them. Lots of very small redfin to the right of the trees.

[@margaretthomas8899]

Sorry make that the Eastern Side. The Western has the drain running in to it,

[@howtofish5051]

Yes, it happens but it's happened a few times over the years....it might be about time I used a lockable rod holder.😅

[@margaretthomas8899]

@@howtofish5051 Margaret, the wife MAKES SURE I PROP MINE WITH ROCKS NOW!!! I use rod holders like you.

[@jogguys]

👍

[@AnthonyWilliams-ew3wp]

Fish using a box to which you can attach a grip butt rest. Problem solved .

[@andrebritz4869]

Sunday........Did we learn from 1/2/3/4????? 🤣 Nice pins

[@howtofish5051]

....I'm not sure I did!

[@robertfelton1521]

Take up chess mate!

[@johnwagener642]

Looks like a slow learner to me😂

[@stephenfredrickson4722]

Your drag isn't set correctly! Too tight!

[@pablowvangreenlow7430]

Should rename this channel how not to fish . Tip 1 ) better rod holders Tip 2 ) loosen drag while fishing for carp. Tip 3 ) place equipment in a position out in front to keep eyes on rods