Five Options For Woodturning Lathe Faceplates

www.AsWoodTurns.com
I use a lot of faceplates in many different configurations. I prefer to start with an inexpensive block of poplar, thread it, and then adapt it to my project. When finished, I may face off the base block and put it away until another is needed. I have a box dedicated to my cache of faceplates.
Steel faceplates are too expensive to have a lot of. To add insult to injury, attaching wood requires screws which can ruin my turning tools if hit.
Beyond all steel faceplates, there are two options: a steel nut embedded in wood; direct threading in wood.
For a larger 1 1/4" x 8 tpi spindle, 8 tpi is not an industry standard. The standard for 1 1/4 threads is 7 threads per ince. Therefore, an 8 tpi nut is a special specification, very expensive and hard to find.
Instead, taps are available for 1", 1 1/4", and M33 spindles. Direct threaded into a block of inexpensive poplar is quicker than embedding a nut in wood. Poplar performs well for all my projects.
I'll show you mine - Please show me yours.
Enjoy!
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#faceplate #woodFaceplate #woodTap #woodworking #woodturning #woodturningprojects #lathe #AlanStratton #video #DIY

[@gordroberts53]

I learned to make these on your channel over five years ago. I use them for a variety of applications, mostly for jam chucks and specialty devices like my lathe mounted sanding disc and longworth chuck for example. My goto for most non-spindle turning is one of my four jaw chucks. Threaded wood face plates are indispensable in my shop. Thanks always for sharing, I have, and continue to, learn a great deal from you.

[@AsWoodTurns]

Thanks for sharing your experience. Gord Alan

[@monophoto1]

I also favor threaded wood faceplates - large-diameter nuts are expensive, so compared with the embedded nut approach, the initial cost of the tap is significant, but is more than recovered by the time you have made two or three mounts. Incidentally, Ace Hardware sells 1"x8tpi taps although they may not have one in stock but can get one from their warehouse in a couple of days. I prefer to use ash because the threads are very clean and strong - especially because I always orient the wood to make the hole in face grain. In theory, you could drill and tap a 'blind hole' but that requires a 'bottoming tap'; so my practice aligns with yours - drill and tap all the way through, and if you need a blind hole, you can always glue on another piece of wood later. When I do that, I tend to use a mortise/tenon configuration for the glue joint so that if I am gluing on a bit of end-grain wood, I can avoid the cross-grain glue joint problem. Final point - after rounding the body of the face plate/glue block, I drill an axial hole in the side that matches the diameter of one of the tommy bars from my chuck - that way, if the threaded block gets stuck on the lathe headstock, I have a way of 'encouraging' it to come off.

[@AsWoodTurns]

The axial hole is a good tip as it is useful occasionally. Wood choice is a "personal" decision. :) Alan

[@bertdelisle393]

Great video Alan, I use them a lot too. I made a few, with metal nuts, in them back in my early days, but found the threaded wood ones much easier and cheaper. And because they are so versatile I have a box of blocks of wood chunks that are all threaded, one afternoons effort, to have them readily available to modify for project of the day. I have several threaded 3/4-10tpi for use on the live centre, some pointed, some with tenon or dowel, also I have a couple of 4" diameter disks with foam or rubber face for supporting off-centre weed pots and ducks, it works excellent providing just a little support, the disk spins with the offset and the workpiece is less likely to launch when I get a catch, yes I do still get the occasional catch, Lol.

[@AsWoodTurns]

Good ideas Bert Alan

[@Red12Harley]

Thank you for the tips Allen!

[@AsWoodTurns]

You are welcome. Bruce Alan

[@Red12Harley]

@@AsWoodTurns my apologies for the misspelling, Alan.

[@WoodFrontier]

Great video Alan. I am a big fan of wooden faceplates. I like the tenon you add when working on the side that later goes against the headstock. I will have to add that to any I make in the future. Cheers, -Todd

[@AsWoodTurns]

I think I have used it once but I still cut it into every one. Alan

[@jackthompson8019]

Great video Alan.

[@AsWoodTurns]

Glad you enjoyed it Alan

[@NBCRGraphicDesign]

Can you share which issue of the AAW magazine featured the wooden multi axis chuck? Thanks! Nice video with lots of great tips.

[@AsWoodTurns]

February 2015 page 34. I have modified it a bit to be more compatible with the Infinite Axis Chuck and added t-nuts instead of screws to retain the ring. Alan

[@ValioMadre7]

Great tips, thanks.

[@AsWoodTurns]

Glad it was helpful! Alan

[@zeneklupa8060]

Thank You very much!

[@AsWoodTurns]

You're welcome!

[@haroldhaines8730]

These faceplates are very helpful for beginners. They are not expensive, and offer more options that expansicve chucks.

[@AsWoodTurns]

I think you still need at least one chuck. :) Alan

[@mvecellio1]

Great video. I like to embed a 1 inch 8tpi nut into maple. I use the kind that has a nylon insert and turn the nylon away. That gives a nut with a small shoulder to butt against the spindle. I use two layers of maple so I can cut a hexagon shape in one and the nut will seat against the second layer. I like all your videos. Thanks.

[@AsWoodTurns]

1x8tpi nuts are much less expensive that the 1.25x8. Good Luck Alan

[@kenvasko2285]

Another good one. Thanks. Wear a full face shield!

[@AsWoodTurns]

Good idea! Total agreement Alan

[@rexb6478]

Great video. Now I can try doing this as there is never enough faceplates! I also have a question on the smock you wear, have you done a comparison on the various ones for sale or homemade? Thank you for helping educate me on woodturning, and of course many others able to see on You Tube.

[@AsWoodTurns]

They seem to get occupied so I make them about 4 at a time. Just remember to face off used ones so you can use them again. Alan

[@glencrandall7051]

I have them all but I have no favorite. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe. Is the finger healing OK?

[@AsWoodTurns]

The finger is healing. Fingers take time. Alan

[@tangobravowhiskey7771]

Thanks Alan. Do you have a video on the spike plate?

[@AsWoodTurns]

Yes, Pin Face Plate and Threaded Wood Face Plates For Woodturning kzbin.info/www/bejne/hne5XoaZrpZ5m6M

[@rogerdirkx.1679]

Alan, what did you use for spikes on your home made spike plate face plate? Thank you.

[@AsWoodTurns]

Those are drywall screws. Alan

[@klemlyn]

Thanks, I tried this once with MDF and was unhappy so I parked the idea. I need to get back into it with real wood. One question please. Is there any reason not to drill the larger hole and cut the bevel BEFORE tapping the main hole, and then applying the CA glue to the whole lot? (Probably need to scrape any surplus glue off the setting when remounting for retapping).

[@AsWoodTurns]

I totally understand MDF as a bad experience. as for the order, in a perfect world, no reason. However, I do it in that order to reduce the opportunities for small deviations. I believe it keeps it more concentric. Alan

[@LewisKauffman]

Thank you for pointing out that wood moves and working to .0001" is moot point. Great video. Sometime, if you are lucky, you can find the correct size taps at a surplus store or they can be made from the proper size bolt.

[@AsWoodTurns]

Making them? - I'd rather be turning wood. But I know people who have. Alan

[@AsWoodTurns]

Actually, I have been experimenting with the metal lathe. Even facing off another 0.010 is a very minimal shaving. Alan

[@grumpywiseguy5992]

Do you have a video on how to glue projects to these faceplates? I like this idea a lot. My only problem is that I am a beginner to woodturning and my lack expertise with the tools you use will probably result in a faceplate that is not truly flat or perpendicular to the lathe spindle axis. Any suggestions? Thanks.

[@monophoto1]

Valid concern. As you become more practiced, you will acquire the skills to flatten the face of a glue block, but there is a shortcut that you can use before that happens. Glue a strip of very coarse sandpaper - 40 or 60 grit, perhaps, possibly using a belt sander belt - to a flat board. Plywood or MDF works, or a piece of '1 by' pine. With the lathe running, hold the board against the face of the glue block, making sure that it contacts the face on both the right and left sides of the spindle. After a few seconds, the face will be flat. You can check for flatness by stopping the lathe, and holding a straight edge - a ruler, or the shank of a tool - across the face. It should be in contact with the face all across its width. If not, continue sanding until it is.

[@AsWoodTurns]

As Louie has noted, the most important thing is a flat surface on the faceplate. First, use your favorite tool to get close and check it with a straight edge. once close, a sanding board works great. You will find that there are a lot of glues that can be used: CA, hot Melt, double stick tape, regular wood glue. Since I consider the surface of the faceplate to be sacrificial and renewable, I don't get exotic. Regular wood glue works great, is strong. drying time forces you to plan ahead. For fast, CA and hot melt - but I have had failures occasionally with these. You'll get it down and have a personal favorite process very quickly. Alan

[@AsWoodTurns]

I second the sanding board. (after tooling) Alan

[@markinmon5766]

Can you post the site for the steal nuts?

[@AsWoodTurns]

Depends on the size you want. There are many for 1" x 8 tpi. FVM or McMaster-Carr can supply the 1.25" x 8 tpi. These are bigger and more expensive. Alan

[@billgiles3261]

Taps of the size I would want are very expensive in the UK, I plan to use a bolt of suitable size and cut grooves lengthwise with a file. Interesting experiment.

[@AsWoodTurns]

That will be a lot of filing. Absent a friend with small mill, consider starting with a cut off wheel. Alan

[@billgiles3261]

@@AsWoodTurns angle grinder?

[@AsWoodTurns]

@@billgiles3261 That will give you a good start.

[@tomcoker9882]

Alan, I have Beall taps (1” x 8 and 1-1/4 x 8) that I’ve had for decades and they work great. However I wanted to try the nut & bolt route for a jig, but couldn’t find a 1-1/4 x 8 set. Do you know of a source? 1 x 8 are easy, not so the 1-1/4 x 8 😟. So if you have a source I’d appreciate it if you’d pass it along. Thanks for the tips. Cheers, Tom

[@jameswhattam3945]

McMaster-Carr. Just ordered a bunch of 1 1/4 x 8 hex nuts. Worked great.

[@AsWoodTurns]

McMaster Carr - They are a special heavy spec. On my Etsy site, I offer a 3D printed knob for jigs that I have found very handy. It will hold a chuck or faceplate thru a 3/4" panel. Alan

[@AsWoodTurns]

What doesn't McMaster-Carr Have? However, On my Etsy site, I offer a 3D printed knob for jigs that I have found very handy. It will hold a chuck or faceplate thru a 3/4" panel without the weight. Alan

[@tomcoker9882]

@@AsWoodTurns Thanks Alan, I’ll take a look.

[@kenharper616]

FORD - fix or repair daily -or- found on road dead. I am a Chevy man myself.

[@AsWoodTurns]

Remember the Chevy NOVA - No Va in Spanish is No Go. Alan

[@NBCRGraphicDesign]

First On Race Day is FORD. Great video!