Fixing GE Microwave Door Switches to stop circuit breaker from tripping.

[@hamdihamdy1156]

YOU are the only one discuss this reason for the issue .

[@TexasREGuy]

This is the best video ever. I never would have thought of opening the switch itself but all i had was a switch with more clearance which needed to be super pressed deep with a lot of travel to actuate. I just put electrical tape between the switch and metal allowing the switch to actuate as it should with small amount of travel. I didn’t even have to buy anything! Thank you!!!

[@BufordPusser582]

Thanks for the video. Although it's not Kosher nor recommended, I've disconnected my monitor switch completely about a year ago as I was having the same problem. This solved the problem and there are no more tripped Breakers. When opening the door when the microwave is running, it stops immediately and we've had no trouble since. I do realize that if one of the other switches fails, there's a possibility of the microwave continuing to run if the door is pulled open. We never open the door midstream. Rather, we always turn the mic off prior to opening and there are no children in the house that could possibly do differently.

[@outboardfixer]

If you open the door while the microwave is running to PAUSE it, you risk a power serge to the switches. Hit PAUSE then open the door and the power to the switches will be off. If you pull on the bottom or top of the handle while the microwave is running and open the door one switch will disengage first sending a power serge to the middle switch frying it over time. Hit pause first...then open the door or wait until the microwave had shut off to open the door. PAUSE is on that key pad for a reason.

[@guruknow]

I have a GE microwave and have this exact problem. I think this is a design flaw. I noticed it when I bought it. Most microwaves, even cheap ones, you have to push a large button to pop open the door. And that's a more reliable and robust way of determining the state of the door. I think GE tried to cheap out by skipping the button. I am going to replace the switches and hope that does the trick. If that doesn't work, it'd be time to buy a new microwave. I don't feel like messing with shims, etc.

[@johnkatakowsi9907]

Thanks turned out to be the exact same thing !!!! mind was two found two empty screws that hold the door switch bracket added two extra screws!!! door stays closed tighter!!😀

[@314Chingo314]

Nice bro thanks for the explaining correctly ❤

[@jimmcknight1189]

OK...I fixed this problem in my GE Profile Microwave oven this way. There are three microswitches, one above the other. The two upper microswitches are wired to normally open and normally closed. The bottom one, which has that extra cam is not the one which usually fails. When the door is closed, they switch over. The problem is that if the door is not totally square to the front of the oven, or it twists, the switches have a chance to not activate consecutively and form a dead short which blows the breaker. I got sick of this problem and got a DPDT limit switch, cut a hole in the upper part of the grid over the removable plastic box for the wiring and mounted the switch in a way, that when the door is closed, the switch is activated. ONE SWITCH ACTIVATION CONTACT POINT, not TWO to throw the switch. That way the twist in the door is irrelevant. I then got male spade connectors and put them in the connectors for the NO and NC switch connectors and wired the outputs to the new switch NO and NC connections (4 points, total) with short lengths of wire. This switch breaks before make and that function is the secret to why it will reliably work. It works great. I used a limit switch from an old molding machine. A Square D switch or other type of 2p2t snap action switch could be used and bracketed into the front of the microwave neatly. The switches have to be rated at least 10 amps at 120VAC. If you do this, don't do it sloppy. Your wife will get pissed at you. This is an inherent design flaw in this microwave. The way I fixes retains the safety interlocks and eliminates the problem of door and hinge twist. You GE folks should take notes. Doing it cheap is not necessarily doing it OK....and yes, I am going to be smug about it.

[@cindy.6118]

I’m glad some confirmed sequence of open to close locations.

[@johnbramsey]

Very educational.

[@Welchie11]

Thank you this really helped me 👍🏼

[@L-36]

Good job identifying the issue. Most videos just say to replace the switches. However, you didn't really fix the issue. The issue is clearance within the plastics housing. You know, that plastic piece that is worn out only cost me $10 plus shipping.

[@rossladuke]

You are talking about the “latch board” right? Do you have a link for where you bought it?

[@chuckufarley5884]

Thanks Dave. I've tried to find (without success) the Microwave Latch Hook Switch Holder Latch Body for a G.E. , did you find one and If so where?

[@hamdihamdy1156]

I think there is no new parts for the holder , the only way to renovate it .

[@garylee9738]

Definitely a Canadien.

[@daviddeeg6308]

Close...Just a little South

[@zakilorado25]

How do you remove the white connectors from the switch?

[@daviddeeg6308]

If you are referring to the electrical connectors that push on to the metal prongs of the switches, then a firm grasp on the plastic plug (not wires) , and pulling away from the switch, should allow it to slide off. These plugs can be seen at the 6:41 minute mark of the video...I hope this helps.

[@bizzym6638]

You added a shim to the switch subassembly that pushed it away from the door, and then added a shim to the door because it couldn't reach the switches. Seems like you added too much to the switch subassembly.