Fixing YLOD 3034 is Difficult (aka Frankenstein mod)

[@SkyDown15]

Hello. A few tips based mostly on my experience in bga work. 1. NC-447 and NC-557 are both good fluxes, I can recommend them for rework. I like the 447 one a bit more. Stirri (Stirri-vs-uhf-tf) is also good. 2. You don't really need to heat out the moisture. Its not what delaminating your PCB in the first place. Usually, delamination is caused by too much heat or one area being heated for too long. Although I could be wrong; maybe you need this for these consoles. I'm speaking here in general. 3. You have to modify the suction pen to make it good. You can buy a small DC air pump motor or a motorized suction pen. 4. If you want to keep your de-moisture habit, don't use flux for it. It will only burn, and you will have a difficult time removing it. You only need flux when you're working with molten solder. 5. Profiling is overrated. 1 degree/sec until 150°C is fine; I’ve never had a problem with that. From then on, it's better to be closer to 0.5 degrees/sec, just to be safe. I’m using 180°C for preheating (PCB temperature) for big chips (sometimes for very thick boards, even 200°C), and it depends on your top heater, but around 230-250°C is good (for lead-free applications). I found it better to use less air speed and keep it closer, rather than using more air and keeping it further away. Every dead chip I had died because of a low PCB temperature and high-temp, high-speed hot air gun combo. 6. You don’t have to Kapton tape/aluminium foil everything. If you have aluminum capacitors or plastic stuff around, just those are enough. 7. My PCB reaches preheat temperature in about 4-5 minutes, and after turning on the top heat, it doesn't take more than 3 minutes to lift the chip. Usually, it’s only around 1-2 minutes. If I can’t push the chip from the side after two minutes, I raise the temperature by 10°C and the speed by 5%. 8. Lead-free solder melts enough around 230°C so you can push the chip, and you’ll see it moving and can take it down. Of course Im not talking about proper good quality lead free solder connections, but to soften it. 9. I see you're using screws to hold the PCB. I would tighten them fully; the PCB expands significantly when heated this much, so it's better to leave room for it. 10. Only put the top heater on top of the chip after it’s reached the set temperature. While it's heating up, it usually puts out waaaaaay much hotter air. 11. Yes, you have to remove the stencil. It’s not the kind for direct heat. Watch some NorthwestRepair videos. There's few where he explains how to use reballing with this jig stuff. Unfortunately, I can't remember the exact videos. Maybe someone in the comments can help me out. 12. 16:12 - that's way too much flux for it. 13. 16:40 - better, but I feel it's still more than you need. 14. I don’t recommend relying too much on the thermocouple during desoldering the chip. Once I turn on the top heater, I usually just poke the chip from the side from time to time, and that's my cue. 15. You can clear more easily the burned flux by adding fresh flux, especially if the board is hot. 16. RAM (and die) bleeds due to too high top heat temperature. Have fun. Good luck. I hope this helps a bit.

[@hardwarerepair200]

Thank you for the tips! I am sure other people would find it useful too.

[@8bitnation419]

Also needs a BGA Station.

[@NSHG]

​@@8bitnation419And a IR-based one at a minimum.

[@redxmemes]

good info thanks

[@dovahkiin2108]

Thanks chatgpt

[@matt.108]

Failure is just a lesson for success. Keep going at it man. It’s not difficult once you get the hang of it.

[@hardwarerepair200]

I will keep trying my best.

[@JomasterTheSecond]

"This new hobby has become my biggest torture" God so true. I've never heard of a hobby that _hasn't_ become torture at some point.

[@elshrapnel]

Yes, we all hope for the best, but sometimes shit happens...

[@NightLess.]

Since you bought so many YLOD PS3s, I think you should upgrade your BGA rework station. Very exciting video, I hope you can successfully build Frankenstein in the next episode.😁

[@hardwarerepair200]

Better equipment would definitely improve the success rate, but for now I’m sticking with a budget setup since many people wonder if it’s possible to Frankie with cheaper tools. Hopefully, my video helps others decide what tools to buy. It’s better to have just me wasting money than everybody wasting their money!

[@NightLess.]

@@hardwarerepair200 I believe you can do it because you have a lot of practical experience. In the video you mentioned avoiding 868-22 motherboard numbers. I have a 868-22 COK001, but it is a 201GB SYSCON chip. Is it suitable for making Frankie?

[@NightLess.]

@@hardwarerepair200 @22:47 Hello, where you buy this silver motherboard jig?thanks!

[@hardwarerepair200]

868-22 is very easy to die. Even with professional equipment and good skill, it will still delam. So if this console is working, I suggest you not to touch it. But if it has 3034, then treat it as a practice and don't expect too much.

[@hardwarerepair200]

@NightLess. For the jig, it was from aliexpress, but it seems it's sold out already and they don't plan to make it anymore. There's also a Chinese website selling the same, but it's also sold out a while ago. item.taobao.com/item.htm?abbucket=4&id=35343923877 I guess the demand is just too low and too expensive to make. (It costed 55USD back then irrc)

[@ViceMeister]

Your English is awesome bro. Very cool video.

[@SkexIsDead]

I'm starting my journey of amateur soldering. Watching your video made me feel like I'm not alone in this. You got this, my man.

[@hardwarerepair200]

Guys, this video is in English. KZbin is dubbing my video into German, French, and Spanish without me knowing... I hate it and I am disabling this auto-dub feature now.

[@jiandasilva3886]

Noooooo!

[@xoeogoq9487]

El video es bueno ya que se puede ver en español para los seguidores latinos

[@SuperM789]

i thought you meant "guys this video is in english" because people were commenting about your accent lol

[@hardwarerepair200]

​@@SuperM789 This time people are asking if I’m French 😂. I couldn’t figure out why-then I realized KZbin dubbed my video in French!

[@katsukan2987]

men, iam the first time here, and a love your video. you give it an exelent vipe. so yes pls turn off the automatik translation from youtube. it is bullshit. greetings from germany

[@himzoletvicagaming3621]

Keep trying buddy, don't give up! Thank you for these videos, they are inspiring and educational since i'm somewhat amateur repairman like yourself, i make mistakes also. You do need better tools however, especially rework station. I have been selling jailbroken ps3's and did console service, and every cent i have earned i invested in tools, even bought myself Honton R490 rework station. It was expensive i won't lie and headache to get it here in my country (almost no one is doing reballing here) so i'm one of the few to have it. I'm learning every day how to improve those temperature profiles and believe me, this thing is awesome, makes job so much easier. Again, keep up the good work and those videos coming, wish you all the best.

[@ps3vinny186]

Ayy my good man your dedication to the ps3 console is second to none my friend keep up your amazing work and videos many thanks for your time and effort from vini

[@LowlyEidolon]

Second to none is strong, this guy and felix are doing the same work, maybe together, maybe seperately, at best they are on par and level with each other

[@hardwarerepair200]

Felix is way smarter and more skilled than I am. I’m simply following in his footsteps. A couple years ago, he figured out how to do the Frankenstein mod using a budget setup. I’m just trying to replicate his work and vlog the process. If you’re interested, Felix also wrote a blog about his journey. You can check it out here: www.psx-place.com/threads/research-experimental-nec-tokin-capacitors-replacement-ylod.25260/page-156#post-270233

[@ps3vinny186]

@@hardwarerepair200 that maybe so my friend but your dedication to do this is second to none and to document it aswell just amazing many thanks for posting your progress

[@Kepken717]

This is the type of content I love to see and even more so after fighted with so much misinformed people in PS3 Facebook groups and tried to correct them about the YLOD keep doing your hard work, for me your channel along with the one of RIP-Felix are the best and most educational ones about fixing PS3s! RIP-Felix is like a Scientist who explains everything, and you are The One who shows how everything can be put in practice by a normal person to fix his console and learn the process

[@hardwarerepair200]

Actually, Felix put it in practice himself too, and he wrote a blog of it www.psx-place.com/threads/research-experimental-nec-tokin-capacitors-replacement-ylod.25260/page-156#post-270233 I am inspired by him and wanna do the same and do a vlog instead.

[@Nate_the_Nobody]

I haven't seen any of your video's before, but, to the guy that was critical of your English, he can shove it, I watched this whole video on 2x speed and understood 95% of what you said, that's pretty damn good for an ESL speaker

[@hardwarerepair200]

I do appreciate people who post constructive comments to help me improve. It’s totally fine to correct my pronunciation, as I’m willing to get better at English!

[@joesaiditstrue]

your English is awesome , no issues understanding the video

[@joesaiditstrue]

this is my new favorite channel on KZbin. I eagerly await every new video that you upload. i love the longer videos

[@hardwarerepair200]

Longer videos take more time to make. This one took me nearly 3 months in total (the initial footage was filmed back in late September)

[@3ijnweu3oq3]

Couple of tips, You got way too much flux on the chip, you are suppose to have a very thin layer. That layer of flux is only to help the solder balls to stick on the pad. Either make the layer a lot thinner, I mean a lot thinner with your glove and your smooth glove not your spiky glove or get hot air at maybe 250 to heat the flux so its smooth but not activated and not hard or combine the both, which then would allow you to fully coat the entire chip in flux once the solder balls are stuck to the pad. What can also help you is buying a phone repair mat like the Mechanic CPB14 or CPB 320. These reach at 120c and would allow the chip to be preheated and have make it far easier when putting top heat. Also please remove the chip from the stencil jig as that absorbs a lot of heat. Second, you are heating the chip way too fast when removing and soldering. With my Hot air bga station, there are steps such as go to 220c then stay for 45 seconds, go to 245c stay for 40 seconds then 280c for 120 seconds, the longer duration is only to allow me have the extra time if i need it since its a profile type bga station and i cannot edit it once i start it, chip will usually remove after 280c at 40 seconds. For your hot air gun, try to have similar steps with interviles to allow everything to evenly heat and soak in the heat, you shouldn't apply max heat all at once and try to remove it as fast as possible with the highest heat possible. And if its possible, try to preheat your board higher. You want more even heat rather than board being 170c preheated and then blasting 450c right at the middle, thats when problems occur and do not worry about putting the IHS heat sink onto the chip when soldering as that absorbs a lot of heat and you do not need any sort of weight to help the chip solder, the chip with solder with the perfect amount of flux and heat. Lastly, I keep my hot air nozzle very very close to the chip, Maybe around 2-5mm. Hope these tips can help

[@hardwarerepair200]

Thank you for the tips! That's why I still post videos despite it's a failure in the end. The constructive comments I get here are what keep me going.

[@3ijnweu3oq3]

​@@hardwarerepair200 Hopefully you can try those tips and would help you for your successful repair. Also ram bleed is a very bad thing since what happens when the solder is heating up, the solder will vibrate but with underfilled chips, since the solder doesnt have any space to vibrate they would leak out of the ram. This is due to the temperature being too high, you shouldnt try to remove the chip as fast as possible with the top heater. This is not a small chip where you can apply heat as much as possible and it will be removed and fine because the RSX and other big chips require way too much heat, so they need to be done in steps. These advice which i use personally are so good that I do not even need to prebake the board at 100c for 24 hours or prebake it at all because i never had delamination issue with the way I do it.

[@zxalastorxzblackxz3085]

The Commentary is legendary

[@lunatic1911]

Can't believe that I fall asleep while watching your video 😂😂😂 but its so fun and entertainment watching people fixing PS3s since I do them too

[@lunatic1911]

Tip, if you reballing without the stencil which is I do too, try using lowest air speed posible and a little higher temp. It should be good without flying those balls away

[@dimanpro7007]

Mate you're the best! Keep working on it, your determination is your key to the win🎉 Best wishes and Merry Christmas!

[@hardwarerepair200]

Thank you for watching! Merry Christmas!

[@jiandasilva3886]

Adorei a dublagem em português, continue para eu poder aprender com a suas experiências. Grande abraço!!

[@satman6124]

Well, I watched the whole thing. I tried to count the number of PS3 units you went through. You have more patience than me, that's a fact. I have subscribed to see if you win in the end.

[@rudocubano]

Mano rompiste 8 consolas estás loco

[@MrKrewie]

My god props to you mad lads for going these lengths, reballing is not something i wanna do but i respect the ambition 😄

[@davidbentham9586]

Delamination is the enemy in the whole process. Your preheater needs to be very powerful and controllable.There is a fine line amount of time you can keep heating these boards, also their age is against them now. Thanks for sharing your journey, it will make people think twice about wasting time and money on crap flux, solder and tools.

[@geo8046]

i'm glad that there are also people like you that show that it's not as easy as they show. i'm lucky to have a 3.21 slim because it's one of the later exploitable models.

[@behemoth03]

Your job is simpy amaizing. Keep on showing all your fails becouse it's very informative!

[@xodiare]

i give up so early fr, i have 7 fat, 1 slim, 2 super slim all of them have 1024 or 3034, I don't have preheater so i can't try to remove or replace the rsx but i did try to reball it and it ended tragically all the time my closest success try was with replacing capacitors but in my country we don't even have tantalum with low esr and importing from outside is truly nightmare so i just ribbed them from super slim one and all the hell goes right but the console was over heating with no reason so i tried to remove ihs to replace the thermal paste but guess what while i was pressing on it my hands slipped and blown smd capacitor from the board, the white one when i tried to put it back the pads just decided to rib them self off and that's was it i have broken 10 ps3 now! but keep going bro maybe u will master it in the end

[@hardwarerepair200]

It wasn't until 2022 that people started to understand how to fix YLOD properly. It's so sad that many of us trashed our PS3s too early, thinking they were unfixable.

[@bokkibeatz55]

Mad respect not everyone showing you what whent wrong only succes your making what people wanna see a tip keep the nozzle close 5mm on the heatgun don't go above 250c your heatgun doesn't have enough airflow have patience your not on a Jovy or Achi bga rework station try on Sem-001(CechG) boards try a reball first don't kill the bc models and always bake the boards and delidd rsx always don't give up your close

[@Julzilla]

No roasting needed, you are learning a skill only few have attained. As the old saying goes 'If you don't first succeed, try try again!" Enjoying your journey!

[@mm0077]

Thoroughly enjoyed your content and keep it up.

[@erickvond6825]

There's another English saying you may want to contemplate. The early bird might get the worm but it's the second mouse that gets the cheese. Some friendly advice would be to decrease the nozzle size on your hot air a bit which will help it focus on the part you're trying to remove/replace. Not too much, just maybe the next size down. Another thing to try is to get the Kapton tape just under the edge of the chip by sliding it in underneath from the side before pressing it down. Then progressively work your way out until you've masked enough space off that you have room to work which will help you see better. Doing these two things should help quite a bit. You can also lower your preheat temperature a little. A good way to get moisture out of the board that doesn't heat stress the electrolytic capacitors is to burry the board in a container filled with dry rice Try this on a non-repairable board first though in my experience fixing computer motherboards which "have to stay running" because they're tied to obsolete hardware which still works fine but is incompatible with newer computers due to a lack of serial ports or the unobtanium drivers that won't work with modern machines even if it was carefully backed up. The point of this is that these old tanks are cheaper to repair than it would be to refit a factory of old robots with new ones. I understand how hard reballing is. I also get what it feels like when a CMOS battery pops because you forgot to remove it. I've had electrolytic caps do that too, makes me jump and instantly cringe every time. As far as mistakes are concerned, that's how we learn things that we can't figure out if it all goes well and nothing goes wrong. Sometimes it's just having enough patients. Other times it's that EUREKA moment that you have in the middle of the night that makes you race down to the lab to see if the idea you have has any basis in reality. Just don't give up and you'll get there eventually.

[@harrisontashjian752]

Welcome to hell, I'm currently working through the same process of doing the frankenstein mod for the first time. So much hardware has already been killed. You're very close, and I believe you're capable of getting there. Also amtech is stirri. They changed the name after some legal trouble. Stirri flux is the real deal.

[@hardwarerepair200]

Which rework station are you using now? I didn't know amtech is now stirri, thanks for the info!

[@mm0077]

Amtech still exist. The so called Legal wrangle, which some named fluxgate. Stirri is rebrand and from my understanding is the breakaway partners who could not legally use the brand Amtech.

[@harrisontashjian752]

@@hardwarerepair200 I use an LY IR 8500, which is similar to the Achi IR PRO SC, albeit with a faulty design decision of putting glass in front of the bottom heater. I got my unit second hand for roughly 350 dollars, so not much more expensive than the T-8280 you're using, albeit much more advanced with control and profiles. Currently in the process of upgrading my soldering iron and preparing for reballing the 65nm chip I pulled, so I'm not out of the woods yet. The whole Stirri/amtech flux legal trouble as far as I'm aware went something like this: Amtech manufacturing designed the flux, and partnered with Inventec to produce it. Inventec messed something up, with the V2-TF formula, and got into legal trouble with amtech manufacturing. The result is that Amtech manufacturing terminated its partnership with Inventec, but Inventec has the rights to sell their flux using the Amtech name. Amtech found a new manufacturer (or is doing it themselves idk) and rebranded to Stirri. On Stirri flux's amazon page, you can even see the Amtech manufacturing name printed on parts of the product.

[@hardwarerepair200]

Thanks for sharing your experience and the story behind Amtech's legal trouble. Weird that your comment disappeared after I pinned it... Would you mind reposting? I’m sure others would find it helpful!

[@alihaider53535]

dude i feel bad for you i cant imagine losing soo much time money and ps3, Kudos to your dedication!

[@epia125]

glad to see more of these, I really want to get this done at some point

[@protox07]

Have a happy holidays Amateur Hardware Repair

[@hardwarerepair200]

Merry Christmas and happy new year!

[@thesecretofmana]

Thank you for the video, don't pay attention to the negative comments. We are all learning every day and no one knows everything. Hope you get there soon, best of luck

[@LucianRobu]

keep working bro, ur going to make it! You are a great youtuber!

[@allenrusselljr]

Thank you. I learn so much from your videos. I feel your so close though.

[@Phil2stroke]

keep it up i believe in you im shure you can learn and overcome your problems and succeed 😊

[@nunyabusiness69]

There's got to be an easier way to do this without heating up the boards. Great video and love this series!

[@hardwarerepair200]

I hope someone would figure out an easy way to do it too

[@MegaMacedonianboy]

Great video. Never give up if this is your true passion in life. Persistence is key to master something as difficult as this.

[@hardwarerepair200]

Thank you for your support! I will try my best!

[@gregthatcher919]

Drying the board is good, my best advice would be to move around /swirl the air gun when applying heat. Significantly helps with board layers staying intact as well as components. You will hold it still and blast it with hot air in the end. But only in the end. Wishing the best for you ! :)

[@mcharfi]

This is so underrated...

[@thetechgenie7374]

The delamination/popcorn is due your hot air station a 100%, those don't regulate air and heat evenly and you have to preheat board at lower temperature, before going to higher temperature to bring board to warm before very hot. The problem is those cheap stations put to much heat and doesn't regulate airflow correctly. I use to use the cheap hotair station with DC fan in handle, when I learned many years ago and was lucky to get 1 out of 3 that didn't delaminate, even doing simple HDMI repairs took way to long and needed to much heat with cheap station, with my Weller at lower temperature takes less then 5 minutes to remove HDMI with huge ground plane for a board compare to the cheap dc fan in handle station that took way to long and had to fight with it. You need even airflow and I use a Quick 861DW with same BGA tip, or my Weller wtha 1 and fixed and modded many PS3 with 90 percent success rate nowadays and now mostly repair PS5 now and no delamination/popcorn. Preheat the board on both sides for a few minute before reballing, The Weller can program ramp profiles, but typically do it manually as use to it as repair iPhone boards and use to handing and distance of handle. Your bottom preheater good as have the same one and does fine, but upgrade your hot air station, will be a night and day different and way quicker which means less chance of delamination. The Quick 861DW being the best bang for buck, don't buy on eBay as to many fakes and the real one has the 3 phase fan for better airflow regulation The real one over $300. You started the way I learned and you thank me later going to the Quick, or Weller, or JBC hot airstation. The Quick is the best for cost as adaptors are cheap. I also notice you use to much flux when putting back you only need a thin layer. Tape the themocouple to the board not the heater. You need to know the temperature as the air hit board. I know your trying to show people to do it with cheap tools but don't. I learned the hard way myself and trust me it discourage someone from trying again and they think it impossible, plus they destroy the limited amount of these consoles like you did in this video. Better for them to spend $350 on a decent hot air station like the Quick, or Atten and they won't give up and get better at it. Yes I learned on similar tools many years ago as had no choice as the Quick was even out and JBC was over 1.6k to buy one, I became very good to the point don't even have to look at it but almost gave up and destroyed way to many boards early on to get to that point. If Quick I had early on would have save me months to years of learning and consoles.

[@ELENGINEER827]

you can do it, i have 6 years of experience with consoles and i never took off a processor and look at you you almost got it, its just matter of keep trying

[@hardwarerepair200]

Thank you! I will try my best

[@Sir-Dexter]

you got this never give up good luck

[@JoshNotJohn0]

You're far more dedicated than I am. By attempt 3 I would've been thrown into a psych ward. Hopefully you can get this done, maybe I can send my PS3 to you after you manage to do it all successfully

[@falxie_]

31:07 oh hey that's me lmao glad ripfelix had a different suggestion

[@hardwarerepair200]

I like your suggestion, but I struggle to split the balls evenly. One side always ends up larger than the other.

[@Alexmoonrivers]

Man, i feel you. Las month i was trying to fix a keyboard but i'm not good at replacing IC's. It was a mess... Learn that I was using a high temp soldering wire and causing the IC go bad and take more temperature to solder so I cook the mobo.

[@CrazyMonkeyCM32]

wow, your really committed. Can't stop now..

[@hoddelkind]

love your videos. they giving me much to learn :)

[@JamesKirk36]

Let’s goooo watching both of em at one go

[@thenecrocoffe]

We are aware that all those economically damaged PS3s are equal to a good quality heat gun.

[@rickt1866]

you are going to blow up the ch that is.. gl

[@davidbentham9586]

On the point of pre baking, my experience so far is, you can get away with preheating the board for an hour at 100c, then increase slowly by 20c increments before adding the top heater for extraction. This works for me without ram bleeding. Overall removing the ihs is a better process to do than leaving it on.

[@8bitnation419]

You definitely need a BGA Station for this. That small rework station has to work a lot harder to get those BGA chips off which can also over heat the motherboard causing the delamination due to it not spreading heat evenly. This is mainly designed to remove smd ic chips and components. Not big BGA chips.

[@ランダムロボット]

You forgot to sacrifice a live chicken to appease the evil spirits. This is why your project failed.

[@hardwarerepair200]

😂

[@NSHG]

As many others pointed out - move to IR. I hate to admit this but MOVE TO A IR gun ASAP. No amount of traditional blower-based heatguns will work to get a Frankie.

[@Mathias4595_SR]

If there's one thing I noticed with this video, the times when you had delamination on the board were both the 1-871-868-22 revision, which according to Rambonz as I was learning some of this stuff, tends to delaminate a lot since it was made quite poorly, the 868-12 and 868-32 boards are much more resilient. The 868-22 board can still have rework done obviously, and according to him the best way to deal with a 22 is to just throw all the hot air at it at once, helps to prevent the delamination. Otherwise it is very nice seeing all the work with these, and documenting the process to help others learn is a very handy thing to have, keep it up.

[@louisstanwu]

Well done and good try. Happy New Year.

[@anthonyboccardo2726]

As ur starting to finally work out the budget set up is ur problem, especially with that top heater (hot air wand) not being up to par. You keep spending money and persisting but like many others warned it would be best to just buy a proper BGA machine and learn from that and u will get better success. I get this is all a learning process and we all need to go through it but sometimes u do need to listen to others that have gone through it already, much like myself, so u get a better head start into the reballing field on the PS3's. Once u have better equipment u will make that money back so always remember the equipment u use is always an investment so spending more at the beginning is never a bad thing.

[@hardwarerepair200]

Getting Frankie done with good equipment would definitely save time and money. But there are already so many people (Booter, ConsoleKing, RedOverload, etc.) on KZbin doing it. What hasn’t been done is how to Frankie using a budget setup, and that’s exactly why I want to stick with my current tools. It might end up being more expensive in the long run, but I just want to answer the question: Can it be done?

[@anthonyboccardo2726]

@@hardwarerepair200 I get that but it has been done before, many times and has proven it can work but the success rate is very bad so ur not really showing anything different other than to warn others not to try it this way with this set up??? Others will see it and be mislead thinking it can be done but fail more often then not just like we are seeing here.

[@jaro6985]

@@hardwarerepair200 If you want to stay budget, look at RF4 they have 1000W hot air for

[@hardwarerepair200]

It's a really good suggestion! I will save it in my wish list.

[@redxmemes]

good work mate

[@hateWinVista]

You're doing incredible work. Sucks that modders have to result into hardcore fixes like this to fix Sony's mistake(s).

[@rayproductionsbackupchanne3862]

37:43 there it is then it's soldered, notice the chip slightly dipping + some of the flux flowing out? usually just giving it a HAIR more time after that and it should be golden reason why you couldnt nudge it anymore after that moment was the board took all the heat away from the RSX the moment it adhered.

[@AlpineTheHusky]

The flux is rarely the issue. Most of the time its just not designed for the application. Some flux just boils off quicker than other flux.

[@e99g]

A very very nice video bro👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@M_White_VA]

Very good. Very funny. Thank you for the raffs.

[@hardwarerepair200]

Glad you enjoyed!

[@typhdecker4099]

I don't think it's worth killing a bunch of working CECHL ps3s to get a backwards compatible console.

[@armyhack96]

definitivamente esto hay que hacerlo con una maquina de reballing si o si , con lo invertido en consolas yo las hubiera reparado tal cual y las vendo para comprar una estacion de reballing y hay si lo intentaria.

[@pavelfara9333]

What is the purpose of this mod? I have mixed feelings - like you are very good at learning process and I can ´t do anything like that with BGA and I do really respect your skills! But on the otherside killing a working console to fix the same console? Maybe I missed the point. It is just something that I don ´t understand as a retro PC enthusiast..Anyway good luck! I would like to learn such a BGA skill too

[@Tio_qi]

"The faster I wanted to get it done, the more I messed up," you say. Be more patient and you'll succeed. Good luck with your next attempts.

[@dabyd64]

You need bottom air too, but the main issue is that toy hot air gun, you need more flow, less temperature. Get a Sugon 8620 or 8630, 1300W, more air, should do much better. Also try raising the hot plate to 200°C Only 400+°C hot air at the top will take too long and kill every board, and 450°C over the chips is just crazy!

[@buttercrisis]

how much money did you spend

[@ngbf2900]

I enjoy doing DIY soldering mods and repairs to old consoles, but these frankenstein mods etc involving reballing, preheating is way beyond my capabilities. So I personally don't give a F about PS2 backwards compatibility on PS3 and just use a PS2.. anyway you've came this far investing so much time and money so I hope you reach a point of success that satisfies you.

[@hardwarerepair200]

Thank you for watching! That’s exactly the point of this series. I just want to document my journey, whether it's a success or failure. I let viewers to decide if they want to try it and what to expect if they do.

[@harrydbs1]

Living in 3034 😎

[@StephenLaw-mp2jk]

Investing in a BGA station will make things so much easier.

[@JoeGoesx]

This is a PS3 massacre! Im gonna call you The Butcher of Japan. Do enjoy your videos though. :)

[@hardwarerepair200]

I should change my channel name to "Amateur PS3 Killer"

[@95Comics]

My stencil is able to be heated no problem. If you have a good stencil, it doesn’t do that. I couldn’t imagine trying to do this without leaving the stencil on after having done it in both ways I would never go back to doing it with taking the stencil off. It actually takes less than a quarter of the time to get it done when you leave the stencil on. So for the future, I would recommend getting a better stencil one that is already hardened so that it can be put in high temperature situations. you may want to use the solder glue instead of using regular heat applied solder with all the boards delaminating. either that or insulate the area around the gpu slot, but the glue would probably be alot easier for you

[@thanos_d2]

that because the stencil you are using is made for direct heat

[@95Comics]

@ that’s why I told him to get a hardened stencil. That is how they prepare it for direct heat. The hardening process that is

[@thanos_d2]

@95Comics the stencil he has is fine, he just need more practice

[@95Comics]

@ People were telling him to heat it up and he did, and you saw the result. so I told him if he’s going to heat it up he needs a different type of stencil one that is hardened. Are you telling me that if he wants to heat it up with the stencil on it he does not need a different stencil? You would be wrong then

[@lolzman2539]

damn i have to try this soon again too XD o lord i fragged up the first and last one as well....but seeing this.......i need to try it again

[@VictorHugoAlvarez-eternelymiss]

You killed 10 ps3s, now I have to hire a Hitman for you.

[@cho4d]

woah, so weird you post this video. i am just thinking about trying to make a frankie today :)

[@hardwarerepair200]

How's your Frankie going? Keep us updated!

[@cho4d]

@@hardwarerepair200 my frankie still lives in japan. i'm scouting online for my first victim... i mean patient!

[@ThisOLmaan]

Failing leads to Success one ☝day🌄 ... 👍 Something Like that Right🤷‍♂

[@eileenlucynakurosawa7421]

Nice work Just changing Nec Tokins u got workin systems

[@hardwarerepair200]

Getting Frankie done with good equipment would definitely save time and money. But there are already too many people (Booter, ConsoleKing, RedOverload, etc.) doing it already. What hasn’t been done is how to Frankie using a budget setup, and that’s exactly why I want to stick with my current budget setup. It might end up being more expensive in the long run, but I just want to answer the question: Can it be done?

[@eileenlucynakurosawa7421]

@@hardwarerepair200 I believe you can do it. But a better BGA equipment is required to preserve the boards and the RSX chip without letal damages.

[@hardwarerepair200]

@@eileenlucynakurosawa7421 That reply was for another person lol Somehow it appears here😂

[@eileenlucynakurosawa7421]

@@hardwarerepair200 Ummmm yeah 😝 It's possible, but may require several attempts to get a fully operational Frankie.

[@KyleGP]

That stencil is not a direct heat stencil. The advice you received in the KZbin comments was wrong. You did it correctly previously where you add a thin layer of flux, the stencil, the balls, then lift off the stencil carefully. You can also use a heat plate to get the balls to melt, rather than hot air. The advantage there is they won't blow away :) Also add a little less flux, you only need a VERY thin layer, enough to get the balls to stick and stay in place.

[@ileox4170]

You! Are! Amazing! So much work, so much dedication, that’s fenominal if this is correct 😂 (German dude). Every Video from you is very enjoyable and every time i hope that’s the console! 😮 You got this! 💪🏻💪🏻❤️

[@hardwarerepair200]

Glad you enjoyed it! Did you manage to listen to the German dub of my video before I deleted it? 😂

[@ileox4170]

@ ❤️ it‘s also very impressive, I’ve tried only once to desolder an RSX, pocorning and that‘s it for me with PS3 💪🏻😂 and I’ve got myself an IR6500 BGA station. For Xbox classic CPU upgrades it works perfect 🤓 Oh i‘ve got the german dub, but hell no that‘s bad 😂 english content is like 80% of my youtube consumtion 🤓

[@alucantropo8340]

Jajajajjaa yo al borde de la locura,vale la pena los dolores de cabeza cuando lo dominas

[@retrogamefree2406]

Las PS3 japonesas son una maravilla..

[@eric69bcn]

Hola. Tengo dos preguntas para ti. Una debajo la lamina de acero de la gpu esa pasta termica tambien hay que cambiarla? Yo nunca la cambie. Solo cambio la pasta termica que hay encima del acero. Otra pregunta. Porque los motores del lector de la ps3 slim. No funciona pero si parpadea el led azul y la ps3 si detecta que chip tiene el lector. Soy novato en esto. Gracias😊

[@Kasza92]

Hey, where do you bought that grip for motherboard ? 22:46

[@woj95]

Damn, RIP in pieces for all those dead chips 😄

[@can_.b]

Let's goooo

[@hardwarerepair200]

Go go go

[@joesaiditstrue]

those tantalizers are so damn hard to install without a board heater

[@hardwarerepair200]

I need to set the soldering iron to at least 400C. Anything lower than it would be difficult.

[@jogg5804]

Why dont you bend and slightly take off thermocouple from t8280 and turn it upwards to actually touch touch moderboard underneath? You dont have to know what are hot plates temperature you need to know what is the board temperature. With everything set correctly you should be able to remove rsx when thermocouple on top of the board close to rsx is showing 220'c and also you have to cover it with kapton tape. Keeping hot air too close make rsx ram die and keeping ihs helps to keep it alive.

[@john_ace]

I had the same buckling problems with one of my stencils. Another stencil from another manufacturer did not expand like that when heated (i had to try 5 stencils until i found a good one). I have never been able to re-ball without the stencil installed since the balls would roll all over the place. Maybe finding a good stencil is not easy.

[@Ps3notfixer]

Yessss new video

[@hardwarerepair200]

Got to share my traumatic experience with you guys

[@shawnunder7]

IN 20 MORE HOURS YOU'LL MAYBE GET ONE

[@hardwarerepair200]

I hope so, thank you for watching!

[@kevin-hl9rd]

Muy buen video me divertí viéndote desarmar ps3 amigo una pregunta bueno 2 la primera es donde puedo conseguir esa boquilla para la pistola de calor la que es para de soldar la gpu. Y la otra es que tengo una ps3 pero Ami no me sale ninguno de la luces de esas solo que lo que hace es que la enciendo y Deuna como a los 10 minutos en el mero meno me sale un mensaje de sobre calentamiento y que lo apague para evitar daños y si no le ago caso se apaga sola y lla cambie pasta térmica hasta la dejé por fuera y le puse otros ventiladores con mucha más potencia para ensayar y ya si dura un poco más ya hasta me deja arrancar el juego y medio jugar pero como 25 minutos pero me sale el mensaje de nuevo y si lo dejo así se apaga por hay e visto que modificando el sistema de refrigeración por uno liquido mejora mucho las temperaturas pero nose tu que tienes un poco más de experiencia con las ps3 me puedas ayudar diciéndome que puede ser el problema la ps3 es una fat ? Y muchas gracias

[@danieltaon]

DONT REMOVE THE STENCIL!!! its ok you wont brake it

[@GreenNati0n]

Is the deamination is maby from pre baking for 24hrs for moisture or your heat gun is too close? Edit: kept me entertained the whole video, so you must be doing something right.

[@SirasPK]

15:00 The stencil you have is not a direct heat stencil, so do heat it.

[@dedithea01]

Too hot

[@andreivanatoru2549]

I have 3 questions: 1: If I put an RSX from a Slim 3000 model will I be able to install CFW? Or will I bottleneck the console to the same degree regarding modding as the 3000 slim and so only Hen will work? 2: If I harvest an RSX from a console that had the newest firmware installed and I put it into a CECHA with a dead RSX that wasn't updated in a long time (so basically unknow and lower firmware version than the RSX donor console) what will happen? Will it boot? Can safe mode be opened and update from there? 3: Almost the same question as number 2 but with a twist: If the donor RSX comes from the latest Slim 3000 model that has a theoretical 4.10 as lowest possible firmware and move that RSX to a CECHA with a firmware lower than 4.10 what will happen?

[@wolfdady8673]

I have ps3 fat with custom firmware and still working except the bluray drive with I don’t need it because I install everything with pc . Have hundreds of games for it