Floor Composition & Construction for Camper Van Build

[@Bear-cm1vl]

For those who may be stepping into this now or in the future, two suggestions in particular: 1. If you don't use tongue and groove plywood as the subfloor, a spline insert cut into the mating edges of the plywood is probably a better option than something like roof decking alignment clips to keep the edges together. The spline can be wood or metal, is usually about 1/8" thick and the grooves to install it can be cut with a router and a matching bit. Half inch ply is too thin for effective doweling and biscuits break too easily when pushed down only on one side. 2. Cut but don't install your sheet flooring when roughing in the floor. Roll the cut flooring up and store it until you finish with at least the ceiling and preferably the ceiling and walls. If your subfloor gets scratched, dinged up or paint/finishing materials/adhesives/putty/ect on it, you can fill any divots, sand any buildup back to level and cover up the sins with the sheet flooring. If you install the sheet flooring first, odds are you will damage it beyond practical repair and have to cover it up or replace it. Hope this helps!

[@Twink_Twins]

I don’t fully agree with the second point at all, yes if you’re an idiot but if you’ve got to this point and you’re dinging it up to the point of sanding it back down then you’ve got no hope, towels, plastic sheets and a little care and I think like when fitting a kitchen getting the floor done like this is perfect

[@gianttravelsbyvan9670]

@@Twink_Twins And I would disagree with both. What is the point of sheet flooring underneath a cabinet with drawers installed? Decorative flooring last. You'll still want to seal around any cabinets so that errant water spills can't get under them. And it isn't only idiots that mar floors during construction, otherwise the flooring contractor in any home build would be happy to have to not cut in around any cabinets and would expect the "non-idiots" to keep his flooring nice for the new owners. There's a logical order to construction that has been proven over hundreds of years. For anyone TALL trying to preserve van height, no reason to give up 1/2" for XPS foam board at only R3 to say nothing about it being a horrible idea as support below a subfloor. Instead, use sticky backed Duct Insulation from Home Depot, which at only 1/8" thick, is ALSO R3. Cut strips to fit in all the low valleys of the floor, then roll a 2nd layer out over the entire floor, which means that around 50% of the floor will be R6 with its TWO layers of it, and about R1 for the single layer, which averages out to >R3 overall, while only yielding about 1/16" of vertical when compressed. Now you have both a vapor barrier and insulation value in the floor. Then, under cabinets and optionally in the garage area you can do another layer of insulation if planning to spend significant amounts of time in cold climates where obviously anyone would be planning to have some form of heat, starting minimally with a Chinese diesel heater for $130. There just is no reason to ever build a subfloor supported ONLY by XPS insulation. And by instead putting 1/2" plywood directly onto the 2nd layer of duct insulation and using rivnuts to fasten it down located barely off the edges of trafficked areas to not impact the vinyl flooring, you preserve maximum floor to ceiling height and avoid inevitable compression of a foam board under traffic areas risking flexing or squeaking. The absolute best way to cut foam insulation board is with a hot knife (about $26 on Amazon). This can then also be used when insulating the walls with foam board to do instantaneous cut and fit trials until you match each area the best. No cutting dust going into the environment at all. As mentioned, a spline or other method should be used to achieve a solid connection between edges of sheet goods in a subfloor. That can be achieved without the special tool requirements for a spline by being as simple as a 2" wide strip of 1/2" plywood fit so that 1" reaches under each sheet and gets glued to them. Then simply open a 2" channel in the XPS board to allow for the double thickness. Put down 1 side of the plywood to be joined, lift and slide the 2" strip under and into place and trace the necessary cutout to the XPS board for the exposed area and lift the plywood sheet to trace the other half. This would have also eliminated the problem of learning that XPS board is not solid enough to support a foot traffic area, particularly where two plywood sheets meet.

[@MarcillaSmith]

@@gianttravelsbyvan9670 hi, I just wanted to jump in on all the disagreeing going on and mention that compressible foam before a floor is going to be more like R-0. Also, what's with 1/2 inch plywood if we're so concerned about height and - I assume - weight?

[@erickosch4363]

Biscuits in 1/2 inch ply worked great for me. Just make sure it is over 7-8 ply and you will be fine. Baltic Birch is best. Cheers

[@makeguyver8596]

For your flooring problem Just make sure you have strapping along all of the seams under the floor wherever two pieces meet. Do this by placing horizontal crossers between the vertical planks and make sure the vertical pieces also exist wherever the flooring meets. I appreciate your series, it's helping me figure out a plan for my build

[@kimmarcus4099]

You're an excellent instructor. I bet these videos will be used for years to come. They are comprehensive and to the point. Well done.

[@TheBeaver50]

i am a year or so away from paying off my home here in north carolina. for years i have been planning on buying a van and converting it into a livable space once the house is payed off. Just today i was riding along the interstate thinking how i could possibly figure out a way to do the floors. i came onto the internet and youtube recommended this video. Amazing how things work out! i just subscribed , thank you!

[@danielkopaee9241]

Your instruction is so clear, it’s amazing! The only thing I’d do different is painting the plywood with mold and mildew resistant primer

[@age_of_reason]

That isn't necessary as the plywood is not touching any metal surfaces. The plywood strips however could use some sealer as they are touching metal.

[@iamhe999]

okay.... You are exceptionally bright.... a college eduction in one of the sciences... if you haven't already, would do you, the science and the school very well..

[@erikaamac2727]

I just love how you set up your van videos and how educational they feel. Thank you.

[@davidhill9375]

First one I’ve seen done correctly .... no thermal bridging ... 👍👍

[@travishanson166]

I plan to do a hot coolant loop through the floor in my project. I need basic amenities for mobile entertainment work. Pa goes in the trailer and I crash at the end of the night in the van. Will install a wabasto coolant heater for winter use to keep van and engine warm without idling.

[@austa_la_vista]

This is a great video for anyone starting a floor. I did my van floor about a year ago and was very similar. I skipped the plywood in between the floor ridges. But I also used slightly thicker foam broad. I also did bolt down the plywood sheets but I was able to utilize existing bolt holes in my van. Overall has turned out great.

[@Area_Man]

So glad I found your channel and this build. Your videos are filmed and edited well, without annoying music or cutesy cartoons, etc. Your build choices are practical and explained well. I've onnly just started but I expect get some good ideas from your build. Looking forward to it!

[@geoknee]

Great video! I love how you explain everything so well. You could be a college professor!

[@gardnerberry113]

I was thinking the same thing! A natural teacher.

[@wademauland7184]

Retired college professor here: I concur! Wouldn't building out a van be a great course? 😁

[@MarcillaSmith]

Absolutely! I've seen so many good van build videos, but never one showing a side view, diagramming the "strata" of the floor. So creative!

[@paulcorgan6064]

this is the greatest video I've ever seen. thanks for the detailed narration and even diagrams to help explain. really appreciate the hard work you put into sharing the process with us!

[@kyrilascully7828]

I love how simply you explain everything. It's easy enough for me to understand. So you recommend putting the floor in first? I look forward to your next video. I'm going to be building my own van in a few weeks.

[@elvishas6725]

Awesome, actual information to the point, without fluff

[@OttoMatieque]

good video / info I look forward to the nixt one the underlayment might help reduce squeaks from the foam

[@Mackathne]

Nixt, I subscribed to the channel because the video was very well laid out and easy to follow. Thumbs up from me

[@koojoonkeat]

Lastly i found good instructions video. Thanks bro

[@mrbriceno3949]

i know right

[@michaelbarryprojects]

I'm really impressed. Just stumbled upon your videos. Great job!

[@MrCfredrickson]

You can also use a hot wire cutter to cut the pink foam

[@doyalkrishna5656]

Awesome and informative. You share excellent material. Thank you for producing these videos!

[@thetruthsetsyoufree7704]

great video, you work like an engineer. thanks bro

[@MrBrianSchumacher]

Really good video and very well explained. Thanks.

[@outthere9370]

Excellent video Sam. But I'm not a big fan of subfloor insulation. It adds complexity. What's wrong with a nice pair of warm slippers & a diesel heater for those frosty nights!

[@vangeezerexperience]

Second the other comments. Very good instructional videos. Thanks for sharing :)

[@ThatGuy-mu2rr]

I will be using 2” rigid insulation and 3/4” plywood. Got to bear in mind you want to keep the cool air in during the summer when running the air conditioning.

[@bstu1523]

Dude your videos are so amazing the way you brake everything down is awesome!

[@KenBeaconHill]

You are an excellent teacher

[@Gypsymommarose347]

Thank you for the visuals!! ❤️🙏🏼💜

[@Gekotonheer1]

Спасибо, буду делать так же. Очень хорошее произношение английского языка для восприятия на слух, можно свободно слушать без субтитров и переводчика ))

[@chuckforget2854]

You did a really good job building g and producing this video, thanks a lot. Be well

[@NilDreams]

I love the way you explain everything so in detail. Great video 👍

[@bimplerouge9389]

Sam, thank you. Your videos are really helpful.

[@Scrambler85]

Very well done and and a thumbs up video

[@jaymwales]

All your videos are amazing such detail great job amazing how are you explain every little detail

[@eddiecamps6365]

Sweet this will be replicated thank you Moser 🤙

[@dootxdoot1943]

"Nixt"

[@danwest268]

"Instid". Interesting dialect on certain words.

[@tblue1904]

This really helped me a lot , thank you

[@sts__]

Super helpful and comprehensive 👏

[@RomeoEdward]

excellent video on the floor installation, best I've see on youtube. I'll be doing one next year.

[@mfsolutions]

Thanks for this. I just finished installing vinyl floor in a bathroom and like you I did it prior to anything going in. I put a layer of 6 mil plastic and a layer of cardboard to protect it and then just cut away the protective layers before installing fixtures. A question! how did you get a wood screw to bite into the plywood strips that are appear to be only 1/4 inch without going thru the metal? The taper on the point is almost 1/4 inch. I would think that pronged T nuts would work better (but would be a pain to install). Comments?

[@errolmagill1611]

He stated near the start of the video that the strips are just under half inch (15/32") - quite thin as you say. I would be using something closer to 3/4". But he was also trying to have them level with the metal floor ribs; I can see the logic in his approach.

[@Sonderbarr]

I've watched a number of these flooring videos - this is one of the best. Thank you!

[@ebptube]

Very good as usual!

[@kimstevermer9036]

Maybe for the 1/2" plywood seams a 3" plywood ripping (in place of the foam)would bridge the joint.

[@truebluepatriot2739]

Great job!

[@bikeninja956]

dude, this is so helpful and well done, thanks for sharing!

[@joeymyopic]

Gr8 video, i think i can do this, 2 bad the cost of the materials has gone thru the roof ,thnx Mo

[@donovandaly8505]

Great videos….. Why not use Havlock wool on the floor? I have heard the xps can squeak?

[@jedswainson]

This was super helpful and easy to watch! Subscribed :)

[@matthewbilbily8872]

thanks for sharing your insights. You clearly think things through every step of the way. Do you think its worth putting foam board between the metal ridge and the plywood pieces in between the metal floor ridges to get rid of that air space?

[@elijah_thornberry]

wondering the same thing

[@linkpatrick]

Nice. Why did you choose to use a vinyl floor finish instead of putting a clear coat on the floor?

[@Bear-cm1vl]

Depending on the quality of the plywood, clear coat or stain and sealer would be options Link. Some ply is made with football shaped inserts that replace part of the wood layer where knots were and left holes in the layer. A finished floor of engineered wood would be an option here as well, however I would strongly recommend a brand with a really good integrated foam backer to avoid transmitted noise, to act as a thermal break and to maximize the floor's life with the subfloor moving and vibrating.

[@ohduana6746]

Hey Sam, your videos are informative and GREAT! However, can you number them so it's easier to watch in order?

[@user-bt4mj6oi8m]

Good job.

[@Zerpersande]

When I first saw your proposed cross-section my first thought was over-kill. For my purposes it is such. That being said, my ‘type’ is to go for over-kill and so I’ll probably add most of what you did. It’s not that much additional work or cost compared to the final result.

[@jessestruyvelt7593]

Having the wood directly on the metal floor. Doesn't it get wet from condensation over time?

[@dingfeldersmurfalot4560]

I think it would have to.

[@jessestruyvelt7593]

@@MAXIMUSMINIMALIST that was a late reply... But still thanks! One year later I agree with what you said. We opted to make sure everything can breath as good as possible! Didn't like sealing of anything either.

[@hollicollins22]

Thanks for the video! Do you have a video where you finish the door step? What is the purpose of cutting out the door step? We are currently building out a Promaster and thinking of adding the step. Thanks!

[@abigailv5347]

Vinyl sheeting is the way to go! Waterproof, cheap, and seamless install. Nice video. What is your opinion on spray foam as insulation/vapor barrier/ sound proofing?

[@Sylvan_dB]

Be careful with spray foam. It is open cell foam, which means it will absorb or wick water thru it. It does make reasonable insulation but its primary purpose is to stop air movement. It will have little to no effect on sound beyond perhaps stiffening sheet metal to dampen vibrations. For that it is better to use "mass loaded vinyl" or the normal sound deadening materials used in car audio.

[@abigailv5347]

Sylvan Butler I was originally attracted to it because I read that it’s a excellent vapor barrier. I’m very concerned about mold/mildew under floors or in my walls. Especially since I will be drilling a lot of holes. Got any advice about that?

[@Sylvan_dB]

@@abigailv5347 I just tried and failed to find a reference on 'Great Stuff' foam being open vs. closed cell. In fact, one post on reddit vanlife showed good results after peeling off Great Stuff as opposed to other places without it. Great Stuff looks like it would be fine. The key is you want a closed cell polyurethane foam. (not open cell, not latex)

[@abigailv5347]

Sylvan Butler thanks for the tips 🤙🏻

[@jdwilsun]

@@Sylvan_dB All foams absorb water. Single part foams do not cure in the middle & have large non-insulating bubbles inside. As a test, I filled a cardboard carton with single part foam & sawed it in half a month later. It was hollow & the uncured foam inside stuck to my saw 'forever'. When we renovate flat roofs & boats, the closed cell foam is always heavy as it is full of water.

[@vilsonnovac1963]

Good job

[@beauroberts3623]

You are such a master craftsman and an excellent teacher.

[@Laura-oy8ut]

Fantastic video, so far my favorite for floors! How did the 3M adhesive work with the XPS? I thought I read that it would eat away at the XPS.

[@mikemead2315]

Once again, Great job and explanation. What kind of plywood did you use?

[@donalddalley7274]

While more expensive, you can consider marine plywood (very high quality) and balsa plywood (lower weight).

[@thevideostump46239]

Dude, awesome job, just freak'n awesome! Q/? what do you think of a heated floor for colder climates?

[@thevideostump46239]

@@MoserMakes Agreed on both thoughts Sam.. When it comes time for me to do a van build, I definitely use your floor ideal with wood slats, just ingenious! OK, another question.. Why Thinsolate Insolation instead of like WoolWorx (Rockwool Acoustic Insolation by Roxul)? Mark...

[@donalddalley7274]

Mineral wool / rock wool is not environmentally friendly and can be hazardous to your health. Be careful. Actual sheep's wool is being used on some vans, though, for insulation.

[@sophiastouse5585]

would you say the plywood strips are definitely necessary? I have a promaster, not a transit, so the floor grooves may be a bit different, but I have heard various opinions on this, and some people even highly recommend against it.

[@Zerpersande]

I see no reason to discourage it. It’s bonded above and below. Even if it release it has no where to go and still provides support. It is possibly over-kill though. I like over-kill.

[@sergiocavazos8963]

great video!

[@me_here_now]

Underfloor heating is a simple option.

[@zacjeffery4260]

Best explanation!!

[@deadpoolvanlife8988]

All great info

[@unnamedexplorer1489]

Nixt

[@kaylajo7075]

So incredibly helpful! I am buying all of my materials now and I cannot find any 1/2in sheets of Foamular... would 1in work fine?

[@zachsmithee2687]

I’m sure it would. It just cuts that much extra off your headroom in the van. Cheers

[@katherinekatherine8512]

This is excellent. Thank you. I was planning on filling the bottom ribs with rigid styrofoam. Then 1/2” rigid styrofoam board over that. Then 1/2” plywood, and finally luxury sheet vinyl. Only gluing everything down. No nails. Does anyone have any thoughts on that? My van will be the 118 WB Promaster so the seam of the 2 plywood sheets will be under the bed. Thanks in advance for any advice.

[@dingfeldersmurfalot4560]

If you go to Bob Wells's (cheaprvliing) van assembly guide, he says spray foam tends to trap moisture and eventually lead to rust.

[@nagerjj]

Could u use thinsulate and then lay plywood on top of the vehicle floor? I'm just wondering if this would work or not while not having any stability or noise issues.

[@kbs7340]

Great job thx

[@age_of_reason]

I don't know this for certain but won't the bare wood (plywood strips) collect condensation lying against metal? I thought wood should not touch metal. Maybe seal them with polyurethane beforehand? Also, 1/8" plywood strips are not a good base for the 1/2" plywood floor. Plywood should be bolted/screwed down to the metal floor. You can go under the van and seal the holes afterwards. Just make sure you screw down into the floor where you will be able to access the holes from underneath. This means you may only find a few points to screw down into the metal floor but you don't need that many. If you get 4 at or near the corners that floor will not move. The way you did it puts all the weight of the floor, cabinets and entire contents of the living space glued to 1/8" strips of plywood. I wouldn't trust that setup.

[@TheRioNidoidian]

I read this and decided to use TRIMFINITY 1-3/4-in x 8-ft Polystyrene Lattice Moulding for faring instead of wood for the first layer of the floor in my E350. I am going to hold it all down with bolts that fasten to the floor through the vinyl, plywood, and rigid foam insulation using the threaded holes where the seat base brackets went. With the price of lumber right now, these are cheaper, more moisture resistant, and last longer.

[@MrJustinOConnor]

What did you cover the tire wells with and how did you attach it??

[@karenkeller5866]

Thank you 😊

[@mikehiggins8673]

I wonder if electric in-floor heating could be used?

[@davidborden3181]

hey Sam thanks for the videos they're very helpful! Question: did you treat the furring strips or plywood with anything, or did they come treated? Wondering if I should do so with my own.

[@danielp.52]

For the benefit of your viewers, the professional installer Matt from AVC Rigs let the vinyl go back up the sidewalls of the van by about an inch to keep possible spills on the floor. So don't need to spray foam around the base. See kzbin.info/www/bejne/nHqtnJqkm7pqbaM And I think you are right, with underlayment, you didn't need soundproofing Kilmat because underlayment does the same job.

[@MoserMakes]

That's a good idea running the vinyl up an inch on the sides! Thanks for sharing

[@BenjaminHansen]

4 years later would you change anything about the floor build?

[@Headloser]

Shouldn't he be using pressure Treated Lumber Blue version????

[@freemanpaiwang4552]

If using your measurements, what size screws did you end up using? Thanks

[@FundingGym]

Really, this is such a great video. What a help you gave! I think you should set up a Patreon account. Maybe you can set up a Paypal donation link also. I definitely saved $$$ from learning your process. Worth a $$TIp for sure!

[@mccarthyhome]

You said you would leave the underlayment out but didn’t say why????? Why???

[@Headloser]

What screws did he used?

[@NorthwestLights206]

nixt... where are you from?

[@outthere9370]

I don't think a floor needs insulation @ all! Even in sub-zero environments an efficient heater source deletes the need for a over-complicated flooring system. As hot air tends to raise its the walls & ceiling that're the area's of greatestest heat loss. The floor is where any moisture from any source will tend to pool. Keeping the floor system "simple" will "minimise" any potential threats fom H2O ingression! Remember, you will livin & breathing in a "confined" space. Moisture in this environment is your worst enemy. Everything in your van needs to "breathe" with the the ability to "dry" out. Not rocket science but just common sense. Good luck! Remember the 'ol saying. K.I.S.S.!

[@kellywakeman4094]

What did you use over the wheel well?

[@deboravoth6732]

Hello Moser Makes. I would like to know this as well

[@kw-vy5jd]

Where in Texas can I find him...somebody please help...my apartment lease is ending soon

[@styleden22]

A dent in the floor could also be accommodated with Bondo under the plywood. Shims would work as well.

[@Zerpersande]

Could. Requires prep work and those dents are inna high traffic area. Bondo isn’t designed to adhere in such situations. The fix shown is an eloquent, professional solution.

[@AmoneyC]

NIXT

[@mt1990sweg]

NiXt

[@BlackSheepInnovationsHQ]

Just wrong.... wood will suffocate and rot

[@Heatsauce70506]

Good job. I think I would have used Reflectix between the pink foam and plywood as a vapor barrier also using a PVC fence board instead of the plywood spacers would reduce the chance of rot and mold under the floor, if water gets in there, and it will, you will have a mold issue with those plywood strips.

[@abigailv5347]

How could water get under a sheet of vinyl? No seams, thoroughly sealed edges?

[@Sylvan_dB]

@@abigailv5347 Nothing is ever perfect. (I would *not* have bothered with reflectix either. I don't think it adds value. The vinyl floor is also a vapor/water barrier and so is the pink foam and that is already one barrier layer too many.

[@TheRioNidoidian]

Took your advice and am going with TRIMFINITY 1-3/4-in x 8-ft Polystyrene Lattice Moulding for the faring.

[@alexhearn5626]

Nicks lol

[@mrbriceno3949]

Wow thanks so much Jeff from american dad you rock! if you had a go fund me You'd get $20 from me easily, let me know if you have a venmo!

[@SportsGuy316]

nixxed

[@josephcallaway5027]

The impartial apartment morphometrically help because salad preferentially wave after a old soprano. hissing, hungry meat

[@derekog2090]

Nice vid

[@weemac1427]

What did you do for the wheel arches?

[@Nappyfox]

Nixt