FlySky i6 rechargeable battery mod

[@greavous93]

I did pretty much the same thing when I got this newer transmitter. I used a 600 mAh 2s Lipo for the newer FS-i6 which works fine at a full charge or 8v or so. The original version FS-T6 used 8 AA batteries so I put a 1800 mAh 3s Lipo in that one and its fine with a full charge in the 12.2 v range.

[@theoztreecrasher2647]

1 of the few downsides to these great little Flysky radios is that they are a bit hard on dry cell batteries. So a rechargeable mod or using rechargeable AAs is a good idea. However a better idea than this 1 is to add a good low profile rocker switch somewhere to switch between the installed dry cells/rechargeable AAs and a step-down buck converter to drop a 2 or 3 cell lipo to 6v. The lipo can be velcroed anywhere to the rear of the case or kept in your pocket and connected by a cord. A mini lipo battery alarm can be connected to the lipo balance lead to give a warning of low battery voltage. The buck converter can be 1 of those tiny ones since the transmitter only draws about 320mamps. Even a L7806CV/LM317T/LC7906CT etc linear regulator would do the job for a 2 cell lipo. Using a switch you could hot-swap from 1 to the other source with barely a transmission glitch.

[@LearnAndSharePT]

what about a side jack for charging in paralell with the baterie bank. Just and ideia :)

[@sailingskismo]

That is a good idea :)

[@rcaeroplan3909]

My solution, I'm using 2 Li-ion battery 14500 in place of two AA batterie and for the others places one is occuped by 2 serial diodes 1N4004 or equivalent placed in a cylinder with same sise of à AA batterie and the other one is a short circuit also placed in a cylinde size AA. The final voltage max is 8.4V - 1.6V = 6.8V and when the Li-ion are fully discharged 6V - 1.6 = 4.4V.... Very simple !

[@larrylutsky181]

Seems like it would be easier to buy 4 lipo 1.5v rechargeable batteries. I did and it only cost about $20.

[@КМВ-ц2х]

В этом случае не будет индикации текущего напряжения на элементах. Конструкции li-ion с 1,5 v реализуются с помощью понижающего DD преобразователя.

[@sailingskismo]

Hi Larry, thanks for your comment. I cannot disagree with you, that is indeed a great solution however, I use the boat extensively and I found I needed an instant way of replacing batteries but also to be able to charge the dead pack while sailing ( literally!) Buying 8 good rechargeable batteries was not only more expensive but forced me to use a second charger type. So for me ( and maybe others ) I have since sourced a better battery pack since recording this video, which makes all my battery packs across multiple boats uniform in terms of connection types and balance leads. I will update it when I get a chance.

[@LBitoeverything]

Usually it's mentioned 6V however it's always sending more. For example I have similar 5 pack battery NICD rated 6v but when checked with the multimeter it's sending 8.4... so because of that reason I would say 2s with L7806 is better alternative...

[@sailingskismo]

Thanks Amit for your comment. I should really update the video as I too have sourced a better battery pack since recording this one.

[@LBitoeverything]

@@sailingskismo will be waiting…

[@КМВ-ц2х]

Сам пульт потребляет 140 mA. А Вы предлагаете преобразователь на 320 mA. Кроме того, это лишает возможности контроля текущего напряжения. Разряд произойдёт неожиданно.

[@Spidiandi]

good plan :)

[@sailingskismo]

Thanks. Note to self! Always charge your battery pack before a sailing day, even if you think it doesn't need it. I have already had a situation where the battery died and was unable to recharge on lacation, which ended my sailing for that day prematurely. That seems to be the only downside to performing this modification.

[@brettbailey865]

Hi why not use rechargeable AA's?

[@sailingskismo]

@@brettbailey865 Rechargeable AA's is a perfectly good alternative. I prefer the charactaristics of the 5 cell battery pack.