FO Diary: Kal Cardigan by Claire Jackson (Perfectly Knotted) // Rachel is Knitting

Here is my review of knitting the Kal Cardigan by Claire Jackson of Perfectly Knotted.
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CHAPTERS
0:00 Intro
1:11 Pattern Overview
8:17 Making Timeline
20:44 Gauge Chat
24:50 Things I Wish were Different
29:5 What I Learned
45:06 Outro
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🥰MENTIONS🥰
‪@knit‬‪@knitcalifornia‬
‪@EmtothethirdKnitting‬
#knitting #rachelisknitting #malabrigorios #malabrigoriospisces #kalcardigan #perfectlyknotted #handknitwardrobe #patternreview #fodiaries

[@DianaL647]

Thank you for sharing your personal FO journey and insights gained. We all learn from each other’s experiences. My biggest takeaway from your 45:20 podcast today is Thank You Ravelry!! for being able to view project photos for similar body shapes, and Thank You Ravelry Users!! for posting photos where you are actually wearing your garment…. you help our whole knitting community to make happier decisions.

[@rachelisknitting]

Yes! Ravelry is such a helpful platform for me. I don’t know what I’d do without it!

[@the_knit_owl]

Great FO diary! I loved your discussion on size inclusivity and pattern choosing… I also worry about knitting designers like petite knit but also I find that they fit fairly reliably for me! I’d say, if you like the champagne cardigan and can modify it to make it work for you then you deserve to have a beautiful cardigan that fits well for you ❤

[@rachelisknitting]

Thanks for watching! I think that if you get a reliable fit then you should knit what works for you!

[@tamiwilbanks836]

I very much appreciate your FO diaries. You are a talented knitter with a lot of patience. The fabric this yarn created is absolutely gorgeous! How brave and wise of you to reclaim the yarn for a future project. I am encouraged by you to try new things. I am a quilter, and when I cut up fabric to make a project, I can not reclaim the fabric, however I had a light bulb moment during this FO diary. I can reclaim yarn! I will be a more adventurous knitter now. I will try new projects! Thank you so very much for all sharing all your insight and your honesty. You are a treasure! Have a lovely week.

[@rachelisknitting]

Thanks so much for watching! I’m glad that these videos are helpful. Have fun on your new path of yarn reclamation! The future is bright!

[@Katheverett]

My gauge changes too, especially as I get more comfortable with the project. I changed needle sizes 1/4 way through my latest project (down 1 needle size). I love knitting, but like you I want the finished product. I hate frogging and am very impressed that you will frog that sweater - the yarn is beautiful. I also think that applying math to a smaller size does not guarantee it will fit a larger size. You are smart to look for styles that look good on you. Maybe you could frog during a favorite movie to help take the sting out of it? ❤

[@melindastowers7772]

I found this to be so informative and interesting. I have issues with fit and gage. I do not ever use superwash (not sure of your fiber content here). I find the weight, drape and construction of the garment changes my gage in different areas with superwash. I absolutely love this color and the brioche band. I am learning to modify patterns. There is no size that fits my short waist, large hips and chest, smaller waist and narrow shoulders. I wonderful lady told me to always make the size of your upper bust (not your full bust) and add bust darts and/or hip shaping. This works so so well for me. Love your videos and makes.

[@rachelisknitting]

This was knit in 100% superwash merino, so that may account for some of the issues I had as well. Making clothes for yourself really is a lot of trial and error to find what works for your body and what your preferences are. I'm still learning so much with each project! Thanks for your kind comment!

[@vindeljay]

This is extremely useful, a lot learnt from this experience. Thank you for going over it in such detail. I don't worry about gauge anywhere near as much as I use to, because I also change gauge as I knit, more than once in one garment. As a result I find I modify almost every pattern because of fit issues and frog a lot. As frustrating as this is, I have learnt a lot about my body and what I like. It is an eye opener for a designer to note, that not all body's increase at a standard rate in the same places. We are not just different sizes, we are also different shapes. A hard one for designers. I would knit what ever pattern suits me and modify for me.

[@rachelisknitting]

Yes, such good points!! Sizes AND shapes are so varied.

[@lindsa7383]

I thought this was such an interesting FO diary and really appreciated your candor about the experience, but also your thoughts in general about gauge swatching, size inclusivity, and just knitting in general. I personally feel that inclusivity, size or otherwise is important, but it’s also so multi-layered and we would all do well to be a little less judgemental and park those assumptions, like you said. Not everyone has the financial means to purchase new patterns and I personally think it’s ok to use a pattern you already own, even if the designer could do better. This could be an opportunity customize the pattern for a better fit and help someone else struggling via your Ravelry notes. I think that’s one of the benefits of making something ourselves and making a pattern more than once. It’s not lost of me how time consuming it is to knit and the material needed, and that doesn’t excuse a poorly designed garment or pattern, but just something else to add to the conversation. Also, flexible measuring tapes can stretch over time so it’s often recommended they be replaced periodically, which may be why you got a different measurement compared to your rigid ruler - it’s not you! A yard stick might offer a comparable measurement to your 6” ruler, though not as portable. Even though your Kal didn’t work out, your malabrigo yarn is beautiful and I just know you’ll be able to turn it into something you truly love! 💕 You’re so talented and it’s always a pleasure to learn from you.

[@rachelisknitting]

Thank you! I really agree with you. There are so many layers to this, and I just can’t handle the anxiety of feeling like I’m “bad” for knitting a certain pattern that I know how to make work for my body. This isn’t to say that we shouldn’t address issues or speak out against exclusivity, just that we can practice extending more grace and acknowledging that there’s nuance to these situations. And I am going to get a yard stick 🫡🫡🫡

[@lindsa7383]

@@rachelisknitting Just remember that whether or not you decide to knit a pattern doesn’t in itself make you a good or bad person. You can do all the things right and someone out there will still find a way to call out how you could have done better. As long as you’re ok with your choices that’s what matters and the people that know you will still support you ♥️

[@catherinebuttrick5678]

I am glad you are going to frog this cardigan and use this lovely wool for another garment. I also have gauge issues. I do swatches, and then it's a gamble as to whether the garment will be the correct size, or have the ease I wish, or not. Looking at this particular pattern, that shoulder seam is so far down the arm, even in the smaller sizes. I think you look better with raglan designs, but I see that you knit the Corran Cardigan, which is a drop shoulder and it looks great on you. I really struggled with that one, myself! Had to knit the whole body twice as it was way too small the first time. In any case, without alterations ( and I think you nailed the ones you would use to improve it for your body) this pattern is not good as is for what you want. Frog and move on! Loved your FO diary. You are so organized and so well spoken. I loved your rant about swatching!!!!

[@rachelisknitting]

Thank you! It’s so tricky isn’t it. As for design style that I prefer on my body, it’s also tricky! I have drop shoulders I love and drop shoulders I hate. Raglans I love and raglans I hate. Mostly I love all my yoke sweaters. I really need to sit down and figure this out!

[@alicemarchetti4340]

Hi Rachel❤❤ thank you for talking about your honest experience, cause , as others have written too, you learn the most from other knitter's adventures with projects😊 I also wanted to reassure you that you weren't being a jerk, at all, and I understood very clearly what you wanted to say. Infact I agree with you about it. I'm not a plus size person, nonetheless I do really care about size inclusivity in patterns, however I did recently re-knitted a top, that I made for the first time last year, from a pattern that's not size inclusive. As a fellow anxiety girl, I'd be lying if I said I didn't feel a lil bit awkward (and maybe guilty?) about doing this, but in reality I was just using scrap yarn, with a pattern I already owned and knew looked good on me. For sure I will search for more inclusive alternatives, before purchasing patterns from designers who are constantly not size inclusive. But I don't think I am to be accused of being fat phobic or not respectful, if I sometimes don't make size inclusive patterns. Maybe now I'm being like a jerk, gosh I hope not😅😂

[@rachelisknitting]

I don’t think you sound like a jerk at all! There are so many layers that influence what we make and which patterns we choose!

[@Mobuchholz]

I appreciate you filming the videos and a lot of interesting insight. I 100% agree that schematics should be available to see prior to purchasing the pattern. That is definitely something that should be available from the start and about the shoulder to armpit measurement so also be included. I don't understand why that measurement would be not given. It's an important measurement for all sizes, smaller & larger. As someone who usually makes a smaller size I want to know what that measurement is so I know that this garment will fit. Having a good fit in that area really makes a garment a great fit.

[@rachelisknitting]

Totally agree!

[@monicarosenfield9115]

I recently made the Coven Cardi by Shay Johnson and it has a more classic raglan shape that may be what you're looking for. I did adapt it a bit bc I had a thicker, closer to Aran weight yarn, but it worked out beautifully. Good luck with whatever you pick!!

[@rachelisknitting]

Thank you for the recommendation! I’ve added it to my Ravelry wish list and may make it at some point!

[@ElyshaSkipper]

100% agree about the shoulder to armpit measurement included with pattern/schematic. Super helpful.

[@rachelisknitting]

Absolutely!!!

[@staciehite6834]

One thing to think about regarding gauge is that the flexible tape measures can stretch. That’s all I can think of. It’s a beautiful sweater, but I totally agree with you on the weird sleeves.

[@nataliealexander7457]

All schematics should add the shoulder to underarm measurement. It still won't be perfect because people have different upper arms. But this schematic is particularly important for us larger sizes. Importance of inclusivity! I am also remembering how much you talked about how much you love this yarn from when you first acquired it and during early stages of knitting it up. Beeautifulul yarn/fabric!v That hasn't changed. It is the fit issue! A long time ago I acquired a bunch of free yarn---most of it garrotted into balls like tennis or even bowling balls.I'd love to see how you frog and renovate and repurpose this beautiful yarn. I've renovated it into long skeins and then soft balls, and then knit most off it up into hats and such for Holiday give-aways. AI have a small amount lefft ffor--I hope--a herrinngtooth vest for me. Show us how you reclaim this lovely yarn.

[@rachelisknitting]

Yes! The more info in the schematic the better. That’s so cool that you got a nice haul for free. I will definitely show the process of reclaiming the yarn!

[@staciehite6834]

I love your feedback. Thank you

[@kristalburns3490]

You are in about my size range. I would have knit the size 5. I am pretty new to sweater knitting but I have found that a lot of that with added ease of x amount isn't where it is at for me. I have two numbers I look for in the finished circumference of a pattern. 52 inches if I want it to fit closer to my body or 54 inches if I want it to fit looser on my body. Now in this pattern I would have knit the finished circumference of 56 inches, the size 5 because its the closest to my bigger number. That 56 inches will give me that over sized without being drowned look. The size 4 at 50 inches is just too small and would be skin tight on me. Beautiful yarn, great color for you but I agree , frog it. The finished sweater is trying to swallow you whole. Edit to add: Your tape measure will stretch over time , especially if its stored rolled up. I store mine that way and I am aware it isnt accurate any more but it is accurate enough. Always measure your gauge swatch with a ruler. Place a pin in your swatch , measure over 4 inches and place another pin and then count your stitches. I also skip the wash and block portion of my gauge swatch because mid sweater I am not washing and blocking it. I am not too worried about row count it always seems to work out just fine as long as I get stitch count. There is some math involved if you want to use x yarn where the stitch count is off and it is something I have to look up every time. I think you should look at percentage sweaters. Not to knit but to help with understanding the construction of a sweater if you havent already. I have played around with the math for one that I never knit and it has helped a lot with my understanding of sweater patterns and what I am looking at when I look at a pattern.

[@rachelisknitting]

Thank you for the insight! I am going to get a yard stick to help mitigate any soft tape measure issues I may be having. I am intrigued by the idea of percentage sweaters. Do you know where I can learn more about that?

[@loretta9213]

The more I looked at the pattern as you have talked about it. the more the shoulder armhole shape reminds me of the bat wing type shaping.

[@rachelisknitting]

Yes, just not my style. Great for those who love it though!

[@cozymagemakes]

I really appreciate the feedback on this pattern! I myself am knitting this pattern currently and agree with some of you sentiments and also had issues with gauge. I will be keeping these in mind as I continue mine. Next on my list for cardigans in One Wild Designs/ JP Knits' Postscript cardigan. It is knit in pieces and then seamed with set in sleeves and has a shawl collar, button band, and optional bust shaping. Their patterns are well written and have schematics/lookbooks available before you buy the patterns. I made their Classic LBD and am in love with this tee. Also that colorway is gorgeous and I'm gonna have to grab some for my own Pisces heart and wardrobe!

[@rachelisknitting]

That texture on the Postscript is UNREAL!!!!!

[@thinkaboutknit]

About gauge: I've found that holding yarn double creates a way bigger row gauge than a DK or worsted held single, especially when one of the yarns is a lace weight mohair/suri. Totally agree about the schematics too, I love Emily Greene's self-published patterns because her schematics are so detailed. It's definitely worth putting that gorgeous yarn aside and saving it for something that fits better 💜

[@rachelisknitting]

Thank you! I did swatch for this last summer with one strand of DK and one strand of Suri, as called for in the pattern. My row gauge was still nowhere near pattern gauge! It’s such a roller coaster. I just checked out Emily Greene’s portfolio! I’ve added some to my list! Such beautiful texture.

[@peggymcatee4950]

I agree with frothing the sweater. The yarn is too beautiful to leave in something you don't like. In addition to the things you mention that should be included in pTterns , I'm starting to look for the option to add bust darts. I've been selecting sizes based on my upper bust and then just settling for less ease or increasing stitches to fit my full bust. I also think its wise to look at sweaters and cardigans with shoulder construction that fit you well and find patterns accordingly. Not every style fits every body. This was a great video. I'm glad that you included the good things about the pattern and not just your frustrations.

[@rachelisknitting]

Thank you! Bust darts are so intimidating for me for some reason, but perhaps now is the time to face that fear.

[@peggymcatee4950]

Good grief!! You made it through all those years of advanced education and earned your PhD. You can do hard things. Remember, it’s only yarn, not brain surgery.

[@jacqueismaking]

Personally, I think the clear verdict here is if the gauge requested (and maker honored) does not indeed reflect the proposed outcome size and measurements as designer promised, then it is a pattern and grading issue, and not the makers issue at all. I think there are a lot of people releasing patterns who simply aren’t equipped. 🤷🏼‍♀️ Designers know gauge fluctuates throughout making and it is (or should be) factored it. Sorry you have to frog, friend. That Pisces yarn is freaking MADEEEE for you!!!

[@rachelisknitting]

🫶🏻🫶🏻🫶🏻🫶🏻

[@carolynwatling4626]

I really appreciate you opening up these conversations regarding sizing inclusivity, it is having an impact which is so incredible to see!! My personal schematic hill I will die on is upper bust measurements are necessary! I tend to be somewhere in the L-XXl range depending on the designer based solely on my bust and have had to learn to modify patterns quite a bit so they can fit my whole body and not just my boobs. The more measurements we can see prior to purchasing a pattern, the better IMO, I'm so sorry you're having to frog this cardigan but would really love to hear about your process for 'reclaiming' that beautiful yarn to be useable for a future garment.

[@rachelisknitting]

Thank you! Upper bust measurements - such a good point!! I have so much to learn about measurements and what I want for my body. I’ll definitely chronicle the process of reclaiming the yarn!

[@24567423ify]

I would strongly recommend the Straw cardigan by Joji for a well-fitting raglan v-neck cardigan. It’s DK, but I really think Rios can be knit at a DK gauge.

[@rachelisknitting]

Thank you! I’ve added it to my Ravelry wish list. It looks like a great pattern!

[@runknitkalie]

I also liked the straw cardigan! Definitely would recommend it.

[@dorajohnson2809]

I'm sorry this was such a stressful knit! I have had those too. I've also finished then frogged garments that didn't look good on me, and I've had many instances where my stitch/row gauge "lied" to me by changing while I was making it, or from swatch to knitted object. I've never knit a drop shoulder sweater before, but I'm now wondering if I want to. Just one note: I have noticed recently that some designers have begun adding a note in their patterns (especially boxy/oversized) that those knitting the larger sizes may want to consider having less positive ease in their garments. (I'm sure they stated it much more eloquently than I.) Fingers crossed that your next garment treats you much better!!!!!

[@rachelisknitting]

Thank you! I have noticed the notes for less positive ease in larger sizes as well. The question is… will I remember to listen to it?! 😂

[@wigglymoose]

i love your honest but gentle approach with this but i agree with other comments, i think this is a pattern issue, not a maker issue. also, from seeing it laid flat for blocking, that shoulder angle is actually hilariously un-human-like!! i like some of the features in this cardigan but agree that the wide body and fitted sleeve look is a choice (and it wouldn’t be my choice, personally, for a cardigan at least). i hope you are able to find a pattern that does the yarn and your body justice!!

[@rachelisknitting]

Thank you for watching and for the validation! 💜💜

[@knitsalad]

I’m sorry you’re frustrated with this experience! One thing regarding your gauge, you mentioned that measuring with your ruler in a few locations, resulted in a gauge less than 17 stitches, but your tape measured something pretty close to 18 stitches, so maybe you could try measuring a larger distance that is a multiple of 4 inch to get a better representation. For instance, count your stitches in 16 inches and divide that number by 4, to get an average of how many stitches you have per 4 inches. Just an idea for measuring gauge moving forwards, but maybe I’m misunderstanding something! I’m sorry about the disappointment overall though! FWIW, I think it’s cute, but you should feel great in your FO’s!

[@crafteegirl]

I don’t think you sound like a jerk at all. I also think that a plus size person using a pattern they know to make something work for their body is a different thing than a straight sized person ignoring size inclusivity and not asking designers to be size inclusive. I usually fit inside the size range of most patterns, even if they’re not size inclusive but I am not unfamiliar with fit issues on my body as a busty lady so I try not to buy patterns that aren’t size inclusive, and if I do (often I bought the pattern before I was aware of this), I don’t usually recommend them without the caveat that I wouldn’t buy the pattern now or if I had noticed the lack in size range. I hope this makes sense and that I don’t now sound like a jerk. 🥰😘

[@rachelisknitting]

Thank you!!! You absolutely do not sound like a jerk!

[@wildflowermagicknits]

Have you put your ruler and your tape measure next to each other to see if they measure the same? I've had tape measures that were not accurate at all before! So I'd check that first. Otherwise, have you had your gauge change like this in other projects? It could be that your tension changes a lot, or it could be how the yarn works itself out in blocking. I think you blocked the top of the garment more times and in different ways than the bottom sections, right? That might factor in. Superwash yarn can do odd stretchy things during wet blocking so I'd be interested to know if you have these issues with other yarns with different fiber contents. I am team "only swatch if I'm test knitting" usually. Although I do smaller swatches for making yarn choices. Usually if I'm swatching for fit, I do a big swatch, like at least 6"x6" or 8"x8" because side stitches, cast on, and bind off can all alter gauge so I try to only measure middle stitches. But also, sometimes I just cast on and use the beginning of the product as a swatch like you did with yours and just accept that I might need to rip back. Your feelings are valid and you're allowed to be upset that it didn't work out. It's such a big step and something to be proud of that you're willing to reflect on this and rip it out to make something you'll love instead of powering through and wearing something you don't love. People that are "playing devil's advocate" to make you feel bad about having feelings are gross.

[@rachelisknitting]

As far as I can tell, the soft tape measure is pretty accurate. Just makes it even more confusing! I do think that my gauge is consistently inconsistent in that it does change within a project. Not drastically so, but enough for me not to feel confident saying "this is my gauge without question throughout the project."

[@knittingwhilewalking]

Have you check both rulers are the same measurement? I know the measuring tapes can stretch over time, so I would double check that was still accurate...

[@rachelisknitting]

Yes, as far as I can tell they are in alignment.

[@no1pinkjellybean]

i feel your frustration. would you also say that test knitting for plus sizes is imperative

[@rachelisknitting]

The concept of test knitting is so difficult for me. On the one hand, it’s imperative that patterns are well tested for all of the sizes offered (and ideally by multiple testers for each size). But also, test knitting is an immense amount of labor, often without equitable compensation if any compensation at all. So while I agree that patterns should be test knit extensively, I think that the current standard of unpaid labor for test knits hinders this from happening (especially for plus sizes, which require more materials and are made up of more stitches).

[@Sandy-lq9xe]

Frog it and use the yarn for a completely different project. Meanwhile, put this pattern away...dispel it from your mind and do not have a physical, printed copy of the pattern anywhere near you. Pretend you're Amish and launch a major shun. Maybe come back to this pattern in a year. Really, a year. You are a talented knitter but this pattern is just not for you. At least not right now. 🙂

[@rachelisknitting]

Aye aye captain!

[@EvanKnitsThings]

You’re definitely not a jerk and I know that you have the best intentions. However, that being said, petite knit in particular continues to refuse to extend her sizing in what is now absolutely deliberate attempt to either harm the fat community or just to keep them from wearing her designs. Now, also, I don’t assume that everyone knitting her patterns know this. I also don’t assume that everyone cares. It is something that I do really care about. As a fat person, with fat friends, I know we/they want the same access to cute patterns as thin people. So it can be disheartening to see someone like you with such a large platform knitting and thus promoting patterns from her. I know that you are one of the kindest people on the planet and harm is never your intention. I love you just the same no matter what you knit. In this particular case where you’ve already purchased this pattern, knitting it again isn’t supporting petite knit, it using your investment well and I don’t have a problem with that. You already have it. Perhaps a possibility could be to just not state that it’s a petite knit pattern. “Hey guys I’m knitting this thing from my pattern library I know how I want this garment to be because I’ve knit it before, but I don’t want to actively promote this designer because my values don’t really align with theirs. So here’s what I’m doing but that’s all I’m gonna talk about it. Thanks for understanding.” Is how I would go about it. Sorry this was so long. And all intended in love and friendship. ❤❤

[@rachelisknitting]

I really appreciate this very thoughtful response. Maybe I am missing something with the history of PetiteKnit. I know that in the past she has been far from size inclusive, but after calls for expanded size ranges, her newer patterns go up to 150cm (59”). For example (and just from a quick look at her Ravelry designs), the earliest adult-sized sweater I see is the No Frills Sweater (published on Ravelry in November of 2016). The sizes for the No Frills only go up to accommodating a person with a 130cm (51.25”) bust circumference, which I agree is really far from the mark of being inclusive! But her newer patterns seem to have departed from that limited size range. I’m looking at her designs on Ravelry and see that the newest published adult-sized sweater (The Olga Sweater, published in June of 2024), goes up to 150cm (59”). To me, it seems like there is a good faith effort being made on expanding size ranges, so I don’t know if I would call that a deliberate attempt to harm the fat community or to keep the fat community from knitting her designs. What am I missing? I also want to point out that I am a fat person and a fat maker, too, and although I am in complete agreement that size inclusivity is so important, I do want to emphasize that fat people/makers (or any group) are not a monolith, and there is a wide range of ideas and opinions within our group. I feel like we could talk about this all day (and we’ll get to [if you want] in October!!!!!); I have a lot of opinions on so many things. Another thing you’ve mentioned that I’m constantly thinking about (and not just in relation to this topic) is the burden and/or responsibility of having a large following. I don’t have it all figured out, and really the best I can ever do is to err on the side of being myself. Sometimes that means having complicated feelings about the conversations we have around inclusivity. I also think your suggestion of how to approach sharing my makes when it’s not a pattern I feel 100% great about is good food for thought. Another approach I’ve thought of taking is saying something along the lines of “this is x pattern by y designer, but here are a, b, c, d, e, f size inclusive alternatives that will give you the same style and desired effect if you’d like to knit something like this.” Ultimately, you’re right in that I do not want to cause or contribute to harm within our making community (or anywhere)! You’ve given me a lot to think about! I’ll keep thinking and learning and discussing. I appreciate you so much, Evan!

[@EvanKnitsThings]

@@rachelisknitting as always, the queen of thoughtfulness in your response. So first off you’re wonderful. With petite knit people continue to ask her to grade to what is generally decided as the size inclusive minimum sizing (30-60” with the ease included) and she did increase her size range which is great, but she cut it just short. And it never includes the ease. I haven’t personally had a conversation with her, but it seems very intentional. I mean 59” seems great until the garment is supposed to have 10” of ease so it can really only work for up to 49” bust. I don’t know. Everyone is their own person and 100% allowed to do and make whatever they want. And you’re totally right about being just a person. So I’m sorry for suggesting that you need to be perfect in everything you’re going just because you have a large platform. You’re a human, just like the rest of us and it really isn’t fair for us to put you on a pedestal. I love your idea ode offering size inclusive alternatives as well. Anyway, love you and the podcast and can’t wait til October!!

[@rachelisknitting]

Oh I hadn’t noticed the ease. That is good to know! Thanks for discussing this. It’s an important convo, especially with all the layers it comes with! We’re in each others’ corners and it feels so good 💜💜💜💜