Focus RS mk3 rear brake pad and disc / rotor replacement step by step by OEM Denied Performance.

How to replace rear brake pads and discs on a Focus RS mk3 2.3 Ecoboost.
Vehicle shown is a 2016 model.
Discs used are genuine Ford.
Pads used are Brembo.
This video can also be used for the Focus mk2 ST225 / XR5 Turbo and the Focus mk3 ST250.
NOTE: Focus mk2 ST225 / XR5 Turbo Caliper carrier bolt heads are different heads (15mm).
Tightening torques for other models:
Focus mk2 ST225 / XR5 Turbo / Focus mk3 ST250 :
Caliper carrier 70Nm
Caliper to carrier 35Nm

[@dangale6969]

I am from the UK and can confirm everything likes to rust here, even things that shouldnt... Love the videos man, keep it up :) Cheers!

[@youwhatnow3159]

Thanks for posting. Great info and some good tips. 👍

[@Gyld3N]

short and good. love it. thanks !!

[@xtr970]

Bravo e professionale

[@simonemmerson1]

Great video. When are you doing one for the front discs & pads?! 😂👍🏼

[@OEMDeniedPerformance]

can follow this one which is putting mk3 RS fronts onto an XR5, exactly the same as far as remove & refit of pads and discs go just doesnt show pushing pistons back in caliper. kzbin.info/www/bejne/op2Zo4qbrNtgb7c

[@DavidSmith-qy6ez]

Hope you wound of the handbrake cables before you started stripping the rear brakes . Once you replace rears and pump brake pedal up you can re adjust the handbrake cables back up to a nice 3 to 4 clicks range

[@OEMDeniedPerformance]

Unless handbrake cable is stretched which it should not be unless its been pulled on excessively, I wouldn't advise on doing what you have said during pad and disc replacement. Lever position should be the same after brakes have been bedded in. Handbrake cable adjustment on the RS mk3 shouldn't be done based on a click range and shouldn't be done on new pads and discs until they have been bedded in. Official adjustment procedure: Remove lever boot surround. Loosen adjustment nut. Insert a 0.7 mm feeler gauge between the parking brake lever and the brake caliper abutment, on both sides. Tighten the parking brake cable adjustment nut until movement is observed on one of the parking brake levers. Remove the feeler gauges. Refit boot surround.

[@americanidolman10]

You mention the inside vs outside pads, but the pad that has the pins that line up with the piston are on the outside, opposite the piston. Is this correct? It’s how my old ones came out, just struck me as odd. Thanks for the awesome video!

[@OEMDeniedPerformance]

Outer pad should have 2 pins vertically on top of each other, inner pad (one that is against the caliper piston) will have a spring at the top of the pad and the 2 pins will be horizontal to each other. I cant attach an image to a reply on KZbin unfortunately but if you look at this store listing link, the 3rd image that shows the back side of the pad is showing the inner pad :) focusonperformance.com.au/brembo-rear-brake-pads-focus-xr5-turbo/

[@tonywheelybarrow]

You had different torque settings in description compared to the diagrams in the video 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@OEMDeniedPerformance]

The brake setup is nearly the same for the mk2 ST & mk3 ST as it is for the RS mk3 so the video can be followed for all 3 models but the torque settings are different between them. Torque settings shown in video are for the RS mk3 which is the model that is used in the video. Torque settings listed in the description are for the ST250 mk3 & ST225 mk2 which have different torque settings. (why it says Tightening torques for other models: Focus mk2 ST225 / XR5 Turbo / Focus mk3 ST250 : Caliper carrier 70Nm Caliper to carrier 35Nm)

[@Mistabushi]

I’m curious about the wire/retention spring - genuine ford one cost £30 for pair..OE costs anywhere near £7 so is the Ford one made out of stainless or something??

[@OEMDeniedPerformance]

Pretty normal for Gen Ford parts to be higher in cost especially on a part that doesn't normally fail and usually is only replaced because of being lost or damaged. I don't believe its stainless, galvanised would be more likely.

[@Mistabushi]

@@OEMDeniedPerformance​​⁠yep, mine are all rusty and will be doing brakes soon, was just looking at parts and got curious why there is such a huge difference in pricing when front clips are just slightly more expensive than OE while they’re cut/folded/plated and piece of folded wire cost more…

[@OEMDeniedPerformance]

@@Mistabushi It'l be a supply and demand thing + how many people handle it. Genuine Ford itl be made by an OEM supplier > Ford themselves and a mark up put on it > distribution centre who puts another mark up on it > dealer who puts on their mark up > sells it to you. Mark ups and transport increase the price. Aftermarket/OE its usually factory > parts store > you.

[@SiLENT__]

Very nice video, thank you very much. Only question Ive got, will the other side piston be pushed in with left hand threaded tool?

[@OEMDeniedPerformance]

no, same tool required for both sides as both are right hand wind back calipers :)

[@SiLENT__]

@@OEMDeniedPerformance thanks mate :)

[@jordanwilcox4723]

Have you done a front set?

[@OEMDeniedPerformance]

Not filmed fronts on a mk3 sorry. But you can follow our conversion video using the mk3 RS brakes onto a mk2 ST as a guide. kzbin.info/www/bejne/op2Zo4qbrNtgb7c

[@OEMDeniedPerformance]

If you meant mk2 ST fronts: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mGWQm3x6r99lfqM

[@jbaillie01]

Did my mates earlier well tried . That bottom one pissed me off. Couldn't vet rachet in. What size are thise Allen key bolts

[@OEMDeniedPerformance]

7mm. Full tools list is at 0:52

[@buttdyno]

Thank you!