Ford 1.6L: Timing Belt & Water Pump Replacement (Fiesta, Escape, Fusion)

How to replace your timing belt and water pump on your Ford Fiesta, Escape or Fusion (anything with the 1.6L)!
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Timing Tools: amzn.to/3Silpoe
Water Pump: amzn.to/47PZ7Aa

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

Timing Belt Kit: amzn.to/3uj4EkN Timing Tools: amzn.to/3Silpoe Water Pump: amzn.to/47PZ7Aa

[@garywkline]

@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Already been purchased several weeks ago. I just didn’t know that removing the crank pulley was required to remove the timing cover. I am all set to do this next week.

[@pappabob29]

Working on a 2014 1.6L Escape that blew a head gasket. Low mileage engine so we did the new gasket and re-used the existing belts. Used the timing tool (including the piece on the back side of the cams). The engine started and ran absolutely great. The "Check Engine" light cam on however indicating "cam timing". Replaced all the sensors and cam timing controllers to no avail. Still ran great but check ending light still lit. Took it to a mechanic who re did the belt/cam timing (about 6 times). He keeps finding the cam sprockets in a different place when he re-times the engine. Sspoke to a local Ford tech who said there are "diamond encrusted" friction washers that need to be used on the cam sprockets and the crank pulley/sproket. Unfortunately, one Ford parts guy says "Don't have them but you need 4". Another Ford parts guy says "not shown on the drawing". ???? Since you're also a Ford tech, your input ???? Have you heard of these things "rotating" (since Ford couldn't afford to machine a keyway)??? What is the answer ?? Also, have exactly the same tool as yours. Went to the troupe to uncover and remove the starter (engine is still in the car) only to find NO HOLES IN THE FLYWHEEL. ???? Certainly would appreciate your input !!

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

Hi, I think with that cam gear rotating, either the timing belt is stretched, the mechanic is leaving slack in the belt above the gears, or the cam bolts themselves are torqued below spec. My fiesta 1.6 did not have the diamond washers. I know the 2.0 focus engine does. I mainly do transmission work, so I can't tell you from experience if certain 1.6s have the washers but mine didn't

[@pappabob29]

@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Thanks for the reply. The belt was replaced during one of the attempts with no improvement. As far as "loose between the sprockets" is concerned, the belt is toothed and it is installed with the fixture holding the sprockets so where is the ability to change the dimension between the two sprockets?? We changed the cam positioners after the check engine light appeared. I guess my question would need to be: How do we know the sprockets are at their "neutral" position when we install them ??? Is there a way to determine that???

[@pappabob29]

So you have ALL the info that's available to us, when we took it apart this time, we tried the alignment tool on the sprockets and it wouldn't go on. It seemed as though the exhaust sprocket was half a tooth +- off (closer than correct).

[@pappabob29]

@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Sorry Ben but there is one more thing you should be aware of: When we finished the original head gasket replacement, the engine started right up in about 2 revolutions and ran beautifully in every scenario. At idle, on the freeway, and everything in between but we could not get the "check engine" light to reset with the "cam timing" code/s. We started with replacing the ALL of the applicable sensors with no change. Again, absolutely no negative symptoms but still codes. At one short interval, the codes went away but returned on the next start-up. At that point, we brought it to a mechanic who had/s some experience with these vehicles. He performed the timing process a number of times replacing the timing belt in the process. Currently, it was NOT running properly and we found the the sprocket alignment tool showing the sprockets not correctly aligned. Could this have been a "electrical" (wiring/software) issue all along ??? How can that be diagnosed if we put this back together and it runs great but still has the codes ???

[@michaelbradley770]

​@@pappabob29i haven't done the job yet but will be soon on my wife's 2014 escape and the kit i bought has a special tool to hold the crank pulley at the right spot as the crank sensor reads off the pulley maybe thats is the culprit it will throw a P0016 code which is a camshaft correlation code

[@ryeguy88]

Don’t you want to lock the flywheel for this job? Seems like while it might be more work. It makes it much less of a hassle with keeping things in place especially when you need to torque the living daylights out of the crank bolt putting it back together.

[@rafaelbustamante4768]

Thanks for sharing good technical information I appreciate it.

[@skakaleec]

18:14 Did I got this right - crank sprocket needs the pulley mounted and tightened, in order to rotate as it is supposed to? Does that mean, that if the crank pulley bolt, for whatever reason, somehow untightens, you lose all the timing?

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

That's correct. Without the crank pulley, the crank timing sprocket doesn't turn with the cam sprockets

[@grazianolaudisio3644]

Thank you for explaining. Locking the back of the cams is not necessary then? I see some using a horizontal bar to lock the cams also at the back. But then you will need to remove the headcover.

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

Hi. That bar you're talking about is used after installing the cam gears from seal replacement. along with the sprocket locker, to install the cam gears. There's no keyway on the cam gears

[@daneast]

When I put the crank stop tool in, I can't rotate the cams quite enough for them to reach 12 o'clock and for the tool to be able to fit between them to lock them. If I take the crank stop out, and turn it a bit further, then the tool will fit between them. I haven't loosened anything at all yet (the crank pulley bolt, or the tensioner, etc) so this is purely "stock" (or at least the way it was when I drove it into the garage). I guess maybe the timing has slipped by that much?

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

@daneast hi, I would keep the crank locked, cut the belt and manually rotate the cams so the tool slides in. Or you can pull the crank tool out, go a little past TDC to get the cam tool in, cut the belt then rotate the crank back a little to where you can put that lock pin back in.

[@daneast]

@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Thanks. I'm just surprised it runs as well as it does in this condition. It has vibrated some at idle, but for the most part seems to run fine. The vehicle is new to us, so if it was running underpowered we really wouldn't know.

[@joemears7720]

I just did this job. No timing tools. Wasnt prepared. Took forever. Wish i had found this video before i started

[@abuhamzahalmasry5627]

thanks bro. very informative yet painful doing it on the car

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

Glad it helped

[@josephnovotnak]

Is there any way to tell if the timing belt has been changed before? Looking at a used for escape with the 1.6 and would like to be able to tell.

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

You can take the upper bolts off the timing cover and slide it back a little, should be able to get enough access to see. FYI I work at a ford dealer, and I've never heard of anyone having this service done, ever. So most likely it's original. But the belts are pretty tough, though. They may stretch some over time, like the fiesta one in the video. But the belt in the video had 182k miles on it, still looked fine to keep using.

[@josephnovotnak]

@@BigBensCarsAndCycles ok thanks for the info. The gentleman I am buying from also works at a ford dealer and he said the same thing, so I’m glad he was not making things up. Car has 150,000 miles on it so hopefully it will last.

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

@josephnovotnak sounds good. The 6f35 transmission is hard on fluid, it gets gummy and stops up the filter, damaging the pump. So change the transmission fluid religiously. I've got a video for that, and how to replace the pump

[@josephnovotnak]

@@BigBensCarsAndCycles ok, I know the ford tech who has it now is the transmission rebuilder at the dealer and he just rebuilt it. It has less than 5000 miles in it since the complete rebuild. Just wounding, how soon should the fluid be changed since it was done?

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

@josephnovotnak that's good news. I'd probably drain it once or twice after 5k miles to rid any break in material. Not too necessary though

[@Bogdankuchurivskyy]

Anyone know what the factory bolt is called thay hes holding. 7:24 the one he pulls out and uses pin to lock in place while cranking. I cannot find the part name for the life of me. I need to buy a replacement Please help...

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

@@Bogdankuchurivskyy I bet ford will call it a plug. The dealer can order you one

[@Bogdankuchurivskyy]

@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Is there an official name for it. I was going to check online, to see if I can order it.I'll end up getting it from the dealership. Just curious to see depending what price they quote me and how long it will take

[@Bogdankuchurivskyy]

@@BigBensCarsAndCycles I went to the dealership and they're only able to locate it based on description. They pretty much were looking at a catalog, and searching parts based on description.

[@qthelegend8853]

Big Ben I was dialing the engine and when I dial it slows down and spins it self freely but it still is timed should I be concerned?

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

Sounds like it's just overcoming compression. You should be fine

[@qthelegend8853]

Thanks bro you the best !

[@qthelegend8853]

I of course did this without the battery in its place and when I put it back together the cam and crank gears were timed but they weren’t in the 12 o’clock position when I started my car now I got 4 codes 1 P0340 P0365 and a oil temp senser test failed and engine coolant senser failed do you think it’s a bad ground or pcm? Or did I mess up my engine I started the car it ran fine but when I rev the engine it sounded a bit off and the starter started the car it kinda sounded rough

[@Svindsson]

My cams slipped on me. Do I rotate them clockwise in tandem until they return the marks to the 12 o'clock position?

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

Yes you can turn them back around.

[@Svindsson]

@BigBensCarsAndCycles Does the crank shaft have to be released from TDC, or can the cams be rotated without concern of the valves hitting the pistons?

[@vlader7515]

Any chance you have one for a timing chain ford focus 2012?

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

Sorry, I don't. I've never seen a timing chain issue on a 2.0 focus engine. I wouldn't worry about changing it!

[@vlader7515]

@@BigBensCarsAndCycles oil plug was out lost all the oil so it moved timing. Is it possible to adjust back without removing the whole timing cover?

[@mingming8262]

If you were to choose this engine or the 1.0 ecoboost?

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

The 1.6L is much more simple to work on... and doesn't have wet belts like the 1.0 has

[@stephengahr9742]

Do not buy the 1.0 they are will fail.

[@phordguy]

That crank bolt is guttentite (german spec)!

[@Bretyllium]

The crank bolt is a one use bolt- a torque to tension bolt. You have to use a new one each time and tension it in a specific pattern

[@schmick63]

Great video. Easy to follow. The 1 extra step you could do to make sure the crank stays put is install the flywheel locking pin through the starter hole.

[@solidkiller1244]

Sound like Seth Rogan if u close ur eyes lol

[@nebigarci]

This is the funniest and most informative repair video I have ever watched in a foreign language.

[@choossuck7653]

Bought a 17 Escape and have to do the water pump right now. Never gunna buy anything ford ever again and will be telling anyone who is looking into buying a car to not buy Ford

[@stephengahr9742]

The other makes and models have the same issue. The engine bay is small in those smaller compacts and smaller SUV's

[@ejmwitham]

I'm doing this job on my ST this weekend, so watching a bunch of videos to prepare. This was really helpful, especially with the water pump replacement which not every video covers. And it's actually really nice to see it done outside of the car. Thanks so much for putting this together! One question - if you install the flywheel locking tool that goes where the starter motor would be, does that make it so that the crankshaft can't move from TDC when you're taking the crank pulley off? That's the only part of the job that's making me feel a little intimidated.

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

Good idea, that can help. But if it breaks off, you might have to pull the trans to get it out. Don't worry about the engine turning over, you'll run the bolt in after the crank pulley is off.

[@garywkline]

I am not sure why you removed the crank pulley. Could you not do this without removing the crank pulley? It seems like added work, so I am guessing that I missed something?

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

In order to remove the lower timing cover

[@garywkline]

@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Thank you. That makes sense, I have never done this on my engine before.

[@nicksimadis2086]

Crankshafts not having a keyway on them is incredibly stupid. It's amazing how many manufacturers are doing this now. Focus is the same way.

[@DetroitMicroSound]

There are more advanced ways to do a few things.

[@nicksimadis2086]

@@DetroitMicroSound I understand that, but on something like a crankshaft where timing is of utmost importance, you'd think they would make it easier by using a 3 cent woodruff key.

[@BubbleknotYT]

Mannnnn listen this was one of the dumbest designs I ever came across

[@89E8NiNjA]

If done right, its actually a good design in my opinion. I have replaced hundreds of these and find it to be a good design.

[@joeviviano62]

I'm going to make a keyway kit for the sumbich. Oh and that kit don't have the flywheel locker in it. It keeps it from turning counter clockwise

[@emildinu242]

Flywheel locking is more recommended and more accurate positioning

[@chillijackson]

2013 Escape 1.6l.. I pulled the car in, and had to replace the transmission. I decided while I was here, I would go ahead and replace the timing belt. The car spins over and over and tries to barely crank. But it will not run. I pulled the timing cover back off, at least three times everything looks fine. I’m wondering if I left something unplugged, but I can’t find anything. It sat for seven days with no battery. Because of the work I was doing. This has never happened before. Do you have any advice or possibly where to go next? Appreciate all your videos. thanks. No codes and I used all the proper timing tools.

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

@chillijackson if you spray some starting fluid in the throttle body and it starts, then check for an unplugged vacuum line causing a lean condition. Or a missing vacuum cap. I would also triple check the timing, by installing the timing tools to make sure it's not a tooth off

[@chillijackson]

@@BigBensCarsAndCycles I still don’t understand it Ben… but I guess fourth times a charm. I didn’t do anything different this time. I just went back, took the belt off, set the pins, timed it again, turned it over and it cranked. Did I mention not really didn’t like this design? 😅😂🙏 thanks man! I’m gonna say the fuel pump wasn’t working and it started working this time. 😂

[@DeRochaJ]

Crankshaft bolt question: My Ingersoll Rand 700ft/lb impact isn't budging the Bolt. Can I hit the bolt with heat to try and remove it or is this bad for the crankshaft?

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

Hi, I think that would be fine. I just wouldn't get the bolt red in color from heat (from oxy acet.) but some heat won't hurt it

[@daneast]

I'm using the same impact wrench, and can't get the bolt to break loose. I'm not thrilled at heating the bolt, because I don't want to damage the seal back in there. What all did you have to do to break that loose?

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

@daneast might need to hold the crank pulley still with a strap wrench and break it loose with a long half inch ratchet

[@daneast]

@@BigBensCarsAndCycles I ended up resorting to putting a breaker bar on the bolt, getting it up against the control arm as tight as I could, and turning the engine over with the starter. That broke it loose. I was pretty much out of options, but that worked good.

[@familiadinizemwashingtondc3072]

Thanks my friend

[@zaza6151]

I was wandering why you bought an engine that had 170k miles on it but now it makes sense since you're replacing the timing belt and other components.

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

yeah! just trying to keep costs down. a lower mileage one was almost double the price. This one should last a long time

[@robs4517]

Serious question here as i'm in the middle of doing a timing belt on one of these cars And I removed the crank pully before putting in the crank pin...So..if the 1.6 is an Interference engine, if you cut the belt off and everything goes out of time, how do you rotate the crank and the cams to get them back into time without bending valves.?

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

I'd pull the plugs, look in #1 to see if its close to tdc, carefully turn the crank clockwise until it clunks onto the pin. If either valve is open on #1 I'd get that cam turned to close the valve. If you cut the belt well before tdc, I'd pull the valve cover and turn the cams as you turn the crank to avoid any touching. The cams have areas to fit wrenches on them to turn

[@robs4517]

@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Sigh...thanks. I figured I would have to do it the hard way.

[@dotancohen]

No silicon on the water pump gasket? I hadn't turned a wrench since years began with the numeral 1, but I remember putting a light coat of silicone on paper water pump gaskets.

[@kcube2a857]

Thanks for this video. Just a precision, need to remove the axle support on the engine to have enough access tontiming pin on cranckshaft => Volvo V60 T4

[@choncoconcos5912]

This way you don't need to take the valve cover off? I have a 2015 ford fiesta 1.6.

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

Right. The only reason to take the valve cover off is to install the timing bar on the other end of the cams. The only reason I'd do that is if you take the cam gears off

[@choncoconcos5912]

@@BigBensCarsAndCycles I'm sorry to ask this questions but your are telling me the way you did it in the video in would work on my 2015 ford fiesta 1.6? Thanks in advance.

[@camelfetus1812]

replaced my sister’s siezed up water pump, and to no one’s surprise… absolutely no coolant leaked out when i took it off

[@DudesatRC]

Hi is it the same on fiesta st from 2016? They use some locking key behind the flywheel that you didnt, not nessecary?

[@DeRochaJ]

Thank you for such a great and detailed video 👍👍

[@henryanguianolopez6]

The “m’kayy” @5:15 made me like this..

[@B3sonic33]

Thank you so much this video game my mechanics feels the mental images I needed to get his job done 2 hours quicker then the shop tried telling me it was going to take... and 700 dollars less then their estimate 5 Stars bro

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

Happy to help!

[@scottyx-ee1qe]

Thank you for the DIY video ,very clear and to the point.My only quiestion is from other videos, should we count 12 teeth between the marks or does that vary between models?

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

Hi! Glad to help. I don't see a need to count teeth. Just need to install the timing tools and you're set! I had to move one cam gear a little because my belt had stretched (to install the cam locker tool)

[@DetroitMicroSound]

You will fall in love with the 1.6. 😉

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

Can't wait to get it running!

[@DetroitMicroSound]

Me neither! @@BigBensCarsAndCycles

[@AnthGott]

I have a noise on my engine. Ok overrun it's bad, do you think it could be the tensioner? I have checked valve clearance they seem good.

[@schulteshiftfz]

Might be the water pump bearing

[@jeffreycaudle5108]

You said you were 1/2 a tooth off. But you didn't tell us how to fix it. Mine is as well. With the tool installed the timing belt is 1/2 a tooth off between the cams. I went ahead and got the belt on, that was a struggle. With the tensioner unlocked and the tool out (everything back together on the bottom; top dead center before taken the tool out the belt is in place. Rotated the engine, put the bolt/tool back in to lock the crank, and locked the crank against the tool. The cam tool will not go back in because the belt was 1/2 a tooth off which causes the cams to be out of sync. How did you make it line up?

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

The old belt had stretched some and caused that. With the tool holding the intake cam still, I turned the crank enough for the exhaust cam to slide into place for the timing tool

[@jeffreycaudle5108]

@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Sorry late reply. I appreciate your diligence over and over to stress not getting this out of time. The tool was a little tuff going in. Anyway I was paranoid about this (son-in-law's) and I can't buy an engine. Of course I need to retime it; I wasn't going to start it. So I put back on/in the crank lock bolt tool. Took the timing belt off (without the cam tool in because it wouldn't fit). Now that is living on faith. I ended up putting the cams in the right place, putting cam tool in, holding pressure on the crank bolt with breaker bar, extensions and my foot, held the belt in the grooves of the right cam, and tweaked the left cam clockwise ever so slight (even with the tool in, and the belt popped in the grooves. With that correct I had less trouble getting the belt on the tensioner. All the while holding tension, with my foot on the crank bolt with the breaker bar to keep that from creeping counter clockwise.

[@243tubs]

Great video, thanks for sharing. This is the same engine in my 2017. So from your description I take it that this is an interference engine. One question, do you have to take off the timing belt to change the water pump?

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

Hi! Yeah, I'm fairly certain it's interface. Because I went off a few teeth on my old engine and the engine locked up when turning by hand. And yes, you need to pull the belt off. If you don't want to pull the crank pulley, you can get some timing belt rubber wedges to hold the belt onto the crank sprocket and just pop the belt off the cam sprockets. You'll still need to do the timing process with the tools. Thanks for watching and being a channel member!

[@243tubs]

Ok, thank you. Good information.@@BigBensCarsAndCycles

[@nicksimadis2086]

Glad to see the video up same day lol!

[@mohamadreezal]

thanks to u my bro

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

You're welcome!

[@mashdatrashvideos2831]

Great job as always, this is a rare channel where the mechanic is so good at fixing stuff that using 2 hands and a tripod is just 2 easy,🤣

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

Lol!

[@feedapony]

He took the engine out of the car to change the belt which is really over complicating. Iv watched my mate change 3 and each time he takes the drivers side wheel off peels off the inner wheel arch and uses that as access.

[@BigBensCarsAndCycles]

@@feedapony hi, it's a used engine I was installing. Doing the belt before swapping the engine out

[@stephengahr9742]

@@feedapony so critical as you don't know the circumstanes

[@JamesTeeth]

You CANNOT access the camshaft timing pin while the drive shaft is attached making this kit useless unless you want to pull the whole engine, don’t waste your time

[@benlayfield8404]

Take off passenger side motor mount, jack up the engine just a bit, and then put the pin in.

[@leocampos42]

I’ve done it without removing the axel if it’s at an angle 😂

[@eliasesparza3603]

Just pop the lower ball joint off the spindle then remove the axle and axle mount and boom it’s wide open, you don’t have to over complicate it

[@williamcalhoun7841]

I also have done this without removing axle, if you remove axle bracket there just enough room to slip it out to get to the spot for the pin to hold crank at TDC

[@beatbox131]

Your so wrong mate iv done heaps without taking the drive shaft out.