Ford 7.3 Powerstroke diesel. Oil leak from the oil cooler seals.

In this video I show how I remove and install new seals on the oil cooler with leaving the front houseing on the block for easier assembly on the 7.3 powerstroke diesel f250-550 trucks

[@JohnDoeEagle1]

I'm up late at almost midnight watching this video and remembering what a great mechanic Ron was. I am in the process of freshening up my 2002 F-250 Super Duty with the trusty 7.3L. I was curious what kind of job this was. Ron showed me that it is well within my ability just like his injector cup and injector seals replacement video. It taught me so much before I tackled that project. I would have never attempted such a complicated repair without seeing it done and knowing exactly what I was getting into beforehand. I hope Ron's family is doing the best they can given the situation. I hope they know that his memory lives on in KZbin with millions of viewers watching and learning from his videos. Like I told his son before.....there is a baby silver maple tree in my front yard out by the road that just so happened I planted it the day after his accident. I didn't discover Ron or his KZbin videos until after he passed away sadly. Every time I work on or drive my old truck and back out of the driveway....I see that little tree. Thanks Ron...... My God be with you my friend!

[@jimv3352]

Never thought to leave the front cap on the engine! That's why he was one of best, if not the greatest, diesel tech's that ever lived!!! RIP Ron!

[@Desertvanlife]

Thank you to the family for keeping up your dads videos....... they are life saving for us diesel guys/gals..... may you RIP and your legacy live forever 🙏

[@kingeightball5927]

R.I.P. DIESEL TECH RON. (God needed the best of the best to service his F-350, I guess.) Your videos have saved me enough money to send my daughters to college. (literally) THANKS MAN --

[@htatesil4192]

How did he die

[@user-sk9hl7si7l]

@@htatesil4192 rona

[@MTVA04]

@@user-sk9hl7si7l This is not true, Ron passed away in 2016 after a terrible car accident

[@kennethmabus381]

Missing Ron so much. He was the greatest guy and mechanic. God bless our brother and his family.

[@johnmclaren7059]

I think after watching this video, Ron was looking down on me from the the big Ford garage up in the sky with a smile 😊, I did every thing he showed on how to do it right! Thanks Ron,

[@stitch1960]

Thank you Ron, You have made the Ford Diesel world a little easier to repair. You videos have given many the courage to tackle some of the most difficult jobs in the diesel diagnostics ever. RIP my friend , May the grace of the lord watch over you !

[@markjordan1765]

I hope he was saved.

[@devonmccormick690]

R.I.P Ron, about to do this on my 7.3. You've helped me tons on my 6.0 and I knew you would have some videos to assist me on my 7.3. Classic example on how well one person can impact and help many others! Thank you for your helpful information.

[@FISHBREATHH]

thank you Ron, you are still helping us. Thank you to Ron's Family.

[@harrisonaero]

To Ron's family that is still reading these msgs- know that his gift to the world keeps on giving. Thank you!

[@Arivmario]

RIP Sir. Thank you and your family for making our lives easier. Much appreciated all the way from Vietnam. May God Bless and keep you and your family.

[@robertlloyd7167]

Great video, Ron! I took about four hours to do the job, including breaks to watch some football. Here are two suggestions for guys who haven't done this yet. First, remove the block heater assembly from the oil filter adapter. It's a great way to drain the housing and block, and prevents the heating element from hanging up in the block when you pull the cooler back. Second, for those of you with four-wheel drive, disconnect the driveshaft at the front u-joint and tie it out of the way. This only takes a minute and saves a truckload of aggravation. Great work, Ron!

[@bobd9939]

Removing the heating element is a great idea. I will use it next time . I used Dorman products, I will see how long they last and try to post. Ron's way is very simple. The front bolts look like a nightmare. The cooler slipped right in, just a little pressure. Remember alignment.

[@stitchthisditchthat259]

@@bobd9939 how is it running

[@bobd9939]

@@stitchthisditchthat259 Just went and looked. No leaks!

[@user-sk9hl7si7l]

@@bobd9939 wow,so rare to get answers on 3 ye old post. Thanks

[@bobd9939]

@@user-sk9hl7si7l I drive about 10-12,000 miles a year. 1997 F350 - 7.3 - 325,000miles on the truck. So it looks like about 30-36,000 miles since I replaced the seals or O-rings on the oil cooler

[@josephholmes7144]

RIP Ron. Thanks for making it easier for the rest of us needing to do this job.

[@calebwood4171]

I did this project today and it took me about 5 hours, recommend having another set of hands to put the oil cooler back in place. Also my oil cooler was extremely hard to pull out just btw I also had to take out the front oil cooler mount and press the whole thing together with a ratchet strap. Then with the other set of hands put the whole cooler back in place Thank you! And i hope this is helpful to someone

[@johnymatic]

Gone but not forgotten, Ron is up there looking down on me while I fix my truck again, this time my leaking oil cooler.

[@herefishyfishy6907]

Did you remove the front adapter? I've seen some people take it of and in this video he left it on. What's your take?

[@themechanicman3865]

Rest in peace dieseltechron I learn a lot from you and your videos and your knowledgeable skills and taking the time to show us how to do things when you didn't have to they take the good young not only in the mechanical careers but all careers and do what's right get taken first and that is facts not fiction And by time they get to recognition or recognized feet they're already gone and people don't even know that they're gone

[@twobeer3316]

I wish Ron and the 7.3 would be with us for another 40 years...

[@luisito7965]

hey Ron, did a really good drain with simple green, and is working right, no oil in coolant, awesome video thanks, keep posting. .... thanks

[@markjordan1765]

Wow super cool leaving the front cap on. Save some much time.

[@mikehaycraft2793]

Great video, Worked exactly as described. Pay attention to DieselTechRon's replys about keeping things lined up and not forcing, also use the assembly lube he mentions. I took a chance and didn't replace my front housing gasket because my rear gasket looked pristine, Next time I do it I'll replace the front as well, a lot of extra work but as long as you have it this far down, might as well.

[@kennywhitehead4170]

Preciate to know how it was great having this to go by thank you

[@VitruviunMan]

Just here to give a big thanks to Ron!

[@robertsmith1030]

Watched this vidya when I did the oil cooler seals on my 91' 7.3 and now I'm watching this vidya cause I gotta do the seals on my 96' 7.3 turbo ... Life saving info thanks to Ron's family for keeping his channel alive I hope all is going great considering ty so much !! 🙏🙏🙏

[@rodneynamanda3786]

Warning! Pressing this together like this with a pry bar can cause you to break the aluminum front cover that the two front bolts go into. Then you have to pull the engine. It can be installed with the end caps put on in the press as one unit. It is tight but it fits. Wish I knew then what I know now.

[@htatesil4192]

U still around

[@AKNizbang]

This should be higher... This is actually a really risky way to do your oil cooler. Cracked front cover is no joke and has happened to plenty of people

[@JayDee-bz2ge]

Oh man! Please people, spray was before you do this kinda job. I'm gonna go wash my hands after watching this.

[@tomfrazee1954]

Thanks for NOT talking. Great video

[@timcraneman]

That sounds like it could possibly be a loose jam nut on the back of the IPR. Check & make sure it is not loose or fallen into the engine valley. Good luck hope this helps.

[@danielwade2994]

Thanks for the post. It worked great!!! Took about 2 hours.

[@thomasmarquez6790]

Anytime I do this job I replace both gaskets. I know it's easier to do it this way but you want to do it right. If the front gasket fails cause of age then you will have to do the whole job again.

[@davidskelton3083]

Rest in Peace Ron. You were an awesome mechanic and a true helpful American. I have a 2000 F350 dump 4x4. This video was a big help. Replaced my oil cooler today with Motorcraft parts. It went well. I live in Massachusetts and my old one rotted out from road salt. I did the job outside in 30 degree weather. I had to warm the cooler and o rings with a heat gun to make it easier. I should have glued gasket on flange. I got confused about orientation when I went to slide it in. Was I supposed to fill oil filter with oil before installation? Truck runs good.

[@stitchthisditchthat259]

How is it running

[@michaelpagano4273]

thanks Ron. you must have a built in torque meter in your hands. you too can crack the front timing cover doing it this way. I followed your video in 2 other trucks with no problem. but cracked cover on my van. it's all fixed now but e old have preferred to pull it off timing cover than changing timing cover. did not mean to hurt your feelings but the cover is aluminium and can crack if pressure is placed on it.

[@DieselTechRon]

Same answer. I don't know about a built in torque meter but yes I have the common sense of when to stop and check. I've never broke one and I try to put precautions in for the non mechanics who don't get stuck doing this every day. You warned the people and explained that you can't do it. but to say nobody else can and not to follow it only tells me about your confidence in others. I'll still offer my FREE help and try to show tips and tricks until a high percentage tells me I'm wrong not the ones and twos who say it can't be done because they failed.

[@jeremyadams9218]

mike

[@bstew4841]

Great video, just did my oil cooler, thanks for the spot on instructions.

[@alangilbert5805]

I tried this on my 2002 and didn't work because you can not see the other end of the cooler, I damaged that 29 dollar O-ring, so I had to take both ends out and put it together and then put it in my truck, but this was worth trying because on some models there is no room to install the cooler unless you do a lot of other stuff

[@mikewoodford9003]

Awesome video Ron. I just did the whole thing on my 02 F550. After pulling and cleaning the cooler and changing seals I had to use a hydraulic press to get it back together. I'm not sure if it's the design of the cooler or the Dorman parts kit I got. I'm just writing this as a heads up. I'm up here in Canada and sometimes the parts available are sort of wonky or non-existent so I order most from the USA. AS always Ron great videos that are FREE !!!! Thank You

[@DieselTechRon]

AAAAAHHHHHHH,! I'm failing. NEVER USE DORMAN on these engines. it's China crap. worse than what you take off. far worse. plus I use light pressure to assemble. a small pry bar. If it's straight,aligned, lubed and clean it goes right in. Please report back how long you got out of those seals. maybe weeks or a season. it's usually only months on dorman junk

[@mikewoodford9003]

well... As you say the Dorman seals were definetely not the exact dimensions of the Motorcraft ones. When i re-assembled the cooler in the press I unknowingly snagged the black inner o-ring on the lip of the cooler and shaved most of it off. Re-installed the cooler on the truck and in 45 minutes had complete contaimnated sludge mess in both oil and coolant sides of the engine. I drained sludge and flushed both sides (it's a horrible job I've done a few times). When I put the PROPER Motorcraft o-rings on the cooler it all went together by hand. I hope people read this comment and learn by my mistakes. Luckily I caught the problems before it cooked the injectors or HP oil system.

[@dustincercado]

No, thank you, Diesel Tech Ron. Rest in peace.

[@jamesgazdag876]

Ron best in game hands down RIP bud

[@mikev.7166]

so just to be clear you can just pop it out. take it apart, re-seal it using motor craft/Ford seals assembly line make sure it's lined up nice and straight and apply a little pressure and it pops right in.

[@DieselTechRon]

+Mike V. Yes if it is aligned right, cleaned and lubed with the right seals. If not recheck your seals and alignment. It should go in rather easy. Not like a light shove but not too hard.

[@fortress69666]

Fantastic video made the job very easy 1 hour out 1 hour in ! The big deez is back again!

[@miguelmendez4690]

I, send my like 👍🏼 good job I, have a 7.3

[@ctscantechnologist]

Great video! Is there a toque spec for bolting the cooler to the block?

[@MB-fk5ip]

18ft pounds

[@darylshowalter4706]

Thanks for the preview of what I am about to get into. Do more parts have to be removed to take off the front housing to get to and replace the other gasket? The rebuilt kit I bought comes with both gaskets and it would be good to do them both at the same time. what all goes into getting the front housing off? thanks again

[@MrMontecarlo34]

Great video. What about the gasket on the front housing? Does that need to be replaced also?

[@dieselperformance17]

does the front housing not usually leak where it meets the block?

[@mcssautocollisionclass2537]

It would've been nice to show the front housing, also! It's got a gasket, too!

[@dangerousfreedom4965]

He left the front housing in place

[@Joe.Dillion]

I'm getting a little oil in my coolant none inoilcould this be the cause no pressure build up like a head gasket. or running any different than normal I love my 99 7.3

[@allipowers3699]

Hey Ron, if i am going to be doing a coolant flush and am going to be taking the drain plug out of the block just as you do. Do you recommend going ahead and replacing the oil cooler seals and gaskets? since the coolant is going to be drained anyway.

[@KimballCody]

Looking at buying a 7.3 with 143k on it. Owner states there is coolant in the oil and it's probably coming from the oil cooler. Will this repair fix the problem?

[@swtnlnly]

+AzDadOnFire There are 4 o-ring seals on that oil cooler. 2 for oil and two for water. If the water seals are brittle/cracked then yes, it's a possibility. If the oil seals on the oil cooler are worn/brittle/cracked then it will dump oil on the ground until the truck warms up. Could it be the oil cooler causing oil in the coolant? Sure, but no one here on the net is going to be able to tell you for certain. This is something you will only find out after it's been torn down. Beware, other things can cause that water in the oil etc. The oil cooler is just one possibility.

[@ssn5617]

my bock heater coil sticks out a bit making it hard to install..I think if I had to do it again I would remove it first and install it last.

[@ismaelbotho]

Hizo un buen video ,todo un profesional .

[@AlphaBobFloridaOverlord]

Great video (Thanks Ron - RIP). Quick question for others - does anyone spot a leak on this oil cooler? Doesn't seem like there are telltale signs of either oil, or coolant on the outside. Can the oil cooler develop leaks that are only on the inside? And what are the symptoms? Oil in the coolant, or coolant in the oil?

[@Depressed_Nightfury]

I got coolant in my oil, and that told me. You can often spot a drip on the driver's side up under the front tire as well.

[@user-sk9hl7si7l]

I have mine pooling 2-3" in diameter on cold start,gradually increased in size for a year ,want to tackle it now

[@HammerPowered]

This is really helpful. Looks like I'm due to do this job sometime soon myself. Assuming that the process is similar for both the OBS 7.3L and the SD 7.3L (I own an OBS 7.3L...1996)?

[@herefishyfishy6907]

Was it the same process? I have a 95.

[@Anangrygoose]

Was there any major work required to pull the cooler off other than prying on it? Mine is currently pouring from everywhere and Ive heard you need to unbolt the motor from the mounts and hoist it up to get to the oil cooler. This looks way easier than everyone makes it seem

[@Halfass_garage]

96 7.3- oil in coolant. going to do this soon. do you have to drain oil also? or just take filter off?

[@VegasBugs]

I've had oil getting in the coolant. My radiator cap has mud all over the inside of it. It's also shooting muddy fluid all over my passenger side battery and on the ground under the passenger front corner. Is this likely the problem? Possibly I just need new seals?

[@MTVA04]

Did you figure out if the oil cooler seals were the problem?

[@waynemusteen990]

Thank you.

[@linctexpilot8337]

WHY didn't you power wash the area really well first?

[@UltimateClutchr]

is this exactly the same on the 7.3 idi engines?

[@budvoss3570]

very nice,

[@alex695215]

Is the engine outside of fhe truck??

[@andrewstevens9160]

Do you need any special tools for this job? Gonna have to replace my seals on my 2003 7.3 and I would like to do it myself to save a little $.

[@mikejankoviak8542]

no you don't need anything special. this shows exactly what to do. I watched this and did mine the same way

[@tonylogan6994]

Wow... thanks.

[@hddm3]

thanks good vid

[@ElDIABLO8288]

did you rebuild oil cooler or purchase new?

[@davidacord2294]

he wont be able to anwser u back he passawy back in may

[@concrete2733]

4:15 nice cut on your middle finger lol ouch

[@dadlife3504]

That’s not a cut that’s high temp red grease he’s used to stick the gasket on to housing and to lube the O-rings.

[@raulgallardo5014]

What plug?

[@jordantbaker]

coolant drain plug on the block

[@blackbobby19973]

i did this and for about a month it worked great , then the rear NEW gasket started leaking coolant....,( a slight drip ), so i jammed some silicone between the seal and it is still working . now 2 days ago i wake up go to the truck and low and be hold the FRONT NEW gasket is leaking , ( this time its a much larger leak ) like half a cup over night and turns into a drip per second when running. i have been doing research and found that the mating surfaces may be not " true " and there was a TSB years ago about this , and international was reparing this for free. i just ordered a new oil cooler, o rings and gaskets and will try again, with added silicone on the gaskets. if this does not work anyone have suggestions ?? this really pisses me off i re built this entire engine, got about 1,500 miles on it and the @@#$# NEW oil cooler gaskets are giving me problems.

[@SOHCNightmare]

+rob auk Did you buy Dorman gaskets? or OEM Motorcraft gaskets?

[@michaelpagano4273]

do not repair following this video. you can crack the front timing cover. I did crack mine and had to drop oil pan to replace it. take cooler out to press new o-rings in

[@DieselTechRon]

Yes listen to Michael. Do not let him do yours this way. He will crack your front cover. The rest of you don't force it. It it has high resistance don't be a Michael. Follow my video. Recheck alignment and lube.

[@dustydiede2146]

How can you crack it if you put almost no force to reinstall it?

[@themechanicman3865]

Rest in peace dieseltechron I learn a lot from you and your videos and your knowledgeable skills and taking the time to show us how to do things when you didn't have to they take the good young not only in the mechanical careers but all careers and do what's right get taken first and that is facts not fiction And by time they get to recognition or recognized feet they're already gone and people don't even know that they're gone

[@codyhenry3926]

Probably would have power washed the block before I tore that thing off

[@nicholasgee1]

Very informative video Ron! I did mine by just doing what you see in this video! Its easy!!!!

[@KLEENER008]

Excellent job Ron, I like the part when the guy yells (SACA LA CAMIONETA GUEYYYY) o thanks for the heads up on the o-rings, question I have water in my oil can this be the problem

[@DieselTechRon]

Yes.

[@carlneighbors3813]

Wow, i never wouldve imagined my 7.3 would leak from there. Any more advice on the 7.3? I love my truck and would like to keep it running forever

[@jimmyday1987]

Great video, worked perfectly on this 344k mile 7.3. Orings were so brittle , I cant believe it didn't leak sooner..

[@kandlglass77]

Jimmy Day. I just had my oil cooler rebuilt. My truck is 2001 f250 7.3. The mileage on the truck is 515,000 miles/US. This is the 1st time I have had the oil cooler rebuilt and I have had this truck since it was brand new.

[@sunlite9759]

Great repair video. No sealant needed on the block gasket?

[@thomasmarquez6790]

No...

[@kap419pres]

Thanks a bunch for the awesome video. I think I'm gonna do this myself. Was going to take to the shop until I watched this.

[@DieselTechRon]

In stalling. Test for codes. Try to monitor the ipr. I just posted a video showing how oil can cause it. If not maybe a loose piggyback chip or sticking ipr valve.

[@romain3948]

Good morning. Do you have a reference for a paste that is resistant to diesel/diesel to put on a threaded connection (Permatex, Loctite, etc.)? Thanks in advance ------------- Bonjour. Avez-vous une référence de pâte qui résiste au gasoil/diesel pour mettre sur un raccord fileté (Permatex, Loctite...)? Merci par avance

[@etmpres]

Just did mine. The video was spot on. Thank you Ron. RIP

[@Clones2011]

Dang i bought the doorman set and Ron said it sucks in the comments

[@MegaTattoo69]

Thanks for the video Ron; It helped a lot and thanks for the heads up on Dorman parts=)

[@mariollamas238]

Great mechanic the best 7.3

[@evasion328]

Very nice Ron !!!

[@LAConfederate]

Is there a recommended method for cleaning the cooler while it's out if there's fouling? Thinking this may be on my list of things to do next time I have some extra time and money.

[@stans9487]

I have a 96, 7.3 reg cab w a 4" full suspension lift from skyjacker. Replacement springs. I did overhaul work in around end of 2015. We restored the frame and everything possible while it was in my buddy's shop. I'm no pro mechanic, but changing these O rings is a real headache. No one on KZbin mentions the little dimples in the aluminum housing. The dimples from corrosion. Near the edges ..rite where the o rings are seated. I pulled the front cap off and changed the gasket. Try putting the unit in all as one pressed unit. IT DOESN'T FIT!!! Ron's trick w the pry bar against the manifold did work...but I think I did permanent damage to my knuckles when it pushed in and let go. I hope for the love of all good and holy that when I fill fluids back up and start this old pig, It's sealed and good. Then on to the next issue. A Lot of rusted body parts. I have 350k on it and I'm keeping it till......well..... one of us has to go to heaven.

[@traderryan713]

Great vid.. Looks super simple. (lol). + mine will be in a E350 when it starts leaking, make it a little more fun im sure. RIP sir.

[@johnschwindt3049]

Thank you Ron. RIP. I will keep this 7.3l as long as I can and you've helped me keep it running smooth so far.

[@tbeaul1]

I'm about to do this job on my 95, I always look for Ron's videos anytime I work on my rig. 👍

[@markhorton5331]

Show the whole repair like other videos have done. No reason to leave that front seal on there after you've gone to all the work of draining the block. What a pain in the a** to have to do it twice!

[@gsxr7504242]

i got a 7.3 that dies while coming to a stop, a new cam shaft sensor was installed and still dies when coming to a stop. any idea what could be causing this concern. any help would be appreciated

[@FR7IMI]

Sludge in coolant system. Replace the whole cooler or can you rebuild them?

[@socaldiesel]

My boys and I are rebuilding an 87' with a 6.9, this kind of stuff never gets outdated.

[@tucsonrollin]

I have a 2001. I think the cooler is on the other side. Is it the same procedure to remove it?

[@user-cm9uh6sj7n]

Ahh a Green Thank You at the end ... He thanks us !?!?! No Thank You Ron

[@davidparent5522]

I have always been told u need to drain the coolant and oil

[@daybreakindustries]

great video thanks So much

[@seanfaraday6369]

How much coolant should drain out, is all 29 qts?

[@rickconnock7578]

🙏🙏🙏

[@teichholtz]

First of all, my condolences to the family and friends of Ron. From his videos it is apparent that he was a gentleman and an excellent mechanic. For those of you in the rustbelts, this method might not work. I knew it would not for my 1999 F350 in the Boston area, the unit was rusty and I was replacing it. I ended up removing the three bolts that hold the filter end in, and the two bolts for the front adapter. Then the diesel gods were kind and the unit just slid back and out. To give you and idea of the rust on the unit, the tabs which are used to pry against were rusted away. I used two large pipe wrenches to hold the cooler and an end and could not even get the ends to turn. Beating the cooler near the ends with a hammer freed up enough to be able to get the ends off. I used some emery cloth to clean up corrosion on the ends. I used the truck frame and my floor jack as a press to assemble the unit, and then installed the assembled unit. Took longer than I thought it would, but I did not break anything so it's all good.

[@teichholtz]

A tip for getting the front two bolts out: The alternator and power steering pump are mounted on a cast aluminum bracket. Just remove the four 13mm bolts holding that bracket in place and slide the unit a few inches to the right. You will then see the front adapter and the top bolt. The bottom bolt comes out from under the vehicle, or that is the way I did it.

[@danielhenning3216]

What he did he use to clean the parts so well?

[@zachcooler6064]

You are awesome saved my life and hands