Ford Engine First Start Up Fail

Just when we though things were looking up.
Episode 626 Autorestomod
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[@DougSchriner]

Thank you for showing the problems encountered by experienced guys!

[@AutoRestoMod]

Wish it had been like on TV but neeeewww.

[@DakarRaider]

So many people think...build an engine, drop it in, start and drive (thanks to those carefully edited TV shows). I feel your pain here. Just did a 390 build and getting the timing and right with these first few starts really stresses you out. Thankfully I have a roller cam in it and it didn't need the break in time, but so many things go through your mind during the first few run cycles. Keep at it, fellas!

[@AutoRestoMod]

Great point!

[@erikswensen425]

Things like that happen for a good reason Jeff and Cam, and I mean that in a good way. It may have happened in order to show us all some of the things that we might run into when we do a rebuild or run an engine on an engine stand, especially for someone who's watching this and is new to this like myself. You guys will get it going, I know you guys will. Keep up the great work! -Erik

[@AutoRestoMod]

Thanks for the up vote! We have been pretty beat up by this one.

[@erikswensen425]

@AutoRestoMod you're very welcome

[@allhailinternalcombustion]

The 20 minutes of cam break in is the most stressful time in an engine builders life. I hope the cam is ok, pulling a fresh engine apart to remove glitter is the worst.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Us too.

[@threefiftyone4726]

Something I do is make sure I have a good set of mufflers on the engine so I can hear any problems early, especially with a cam break in.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Yeah, all I have are a pair of old glass packs. Bout as useful as no mufflers. But I will say I did think about that.

[@jimjordan5630]

@@AutoRestoMod Cherry bombs! 😂 😂 A real "blast" from the past!! 😂 😂

[@TheRaulr151]

Man this is real life. I have a 347 stroker on the stand now and was ready for fire up and the starter gear is hitting the back of the mid plate. Checked mid plate (4.084 starter hole), 157 tooth flywheel and 3/4 10 tooth starter. Don't have a bell housing but a starter plate (mimics the bellhousing to bolt on starter. Tried 2 days to figure it out. Engine is still sitting there after 3 days of messing with it. Will start changing out parts in order of mid-plate, starter and finally add an actual bell housing (will have to purchase). but like I said....this is real life.

[@AlecRoth97]

as far as tune up specs, firing orders, I like the old Motorcraft tune-up guides from the 70s and 80s. doesn't matter if you have an amc, ford, gm, or chrysler they're all covered

[@AutoRestoMod]

Yup.

[@marcbondi8462]

Cam will probably be ok. Had to shut down a 289 once after 5 min because I was using a shop fan to cool the radiator on my run stand. Bad idea. Got it sorted out and continued on a few days later. Cam looked good when I had to tear it down 500 miles later due to 3 bad rear main seals and a mismatch on the intake to heads that sucked copious amounts of oil. I will put that motor back together some day when I find a cheap complete home for it. Such is life.😅

[@AutoRestoMod]

Lets hope you are right.

[@kevinfelton4886]

Yes. I had the rocker nuts go bad on my 240 I6

[@AutoRestoMod]

So it isn't just me.

[@RealWorldGarage]

If you’re running a good break in oil it’s fine. Now one suggestion I would make is for breaking in the cam ditch the radiator. I usually set up a garden hose adapter in the lower radiator hose and leave the thermostat out and just route the water outside. Once the cam run in is done put it back on the radiator for fine tuning and dialing everything in.

[@atlurker8037]

I'm not sure if that's a good idea or not to run 55 degree well water constantly through a warmed up engine. May not hurt anything at all. I don't know. Just seems like it would be a little too cool.

[@RealWorldGarage]

@@atlurker8037 in the winter until the thermostat opens you have super cold coolant just hanging out wait until the thermostat opens. I hook the hose up and turn it on and let it run from the beginning. Haven’t hurt anything in the past.

[@atlurker8037]

​@@RealWorldGarageTrue but the engine is also cold to start with. The stat opens at 190 or whatever and let's the super cold radiator water flow once through then it's not cold anymore but the engine isn't fully warmed up then either. Like I said, you may be right and totally safe with the hose method. I'd have research it more to be sure before I'd do it though.

[@RealWorldGarage]

@@atlurker8037 I go with the same thought as cooling down an over heating engine. You have to have it running before you put the water to it. As long and the water is flowing from the beginning there’s no issues, it never has an opportunity to over heat.

[@AutoRestoMod]

We discussed just that idea. I'm the one that nixed it. Really messy what with kids and animals.

[@mycontinental3611]

Did you use a zink adative .

[@jondavis7058]

Where's the KABOOM?!? There's supposed to be a KABOOM!

[@AutoRestoMod]

No.

[@stephenhotzjustdriveit]

always scary with cam break in

[@AutoRestoMod]

Indeed!

[@johnmilner7603]

I still have to laugh when I see a screwdriver or a hacksaw blade down the distributor hole adjusting the pump slot. STOP doing that. Drop the distributor in facing the rotor to the correct direction and if it doesn’t drop in all the way, then JUST rotate the engine then it’ll fully drop. The 1st place where it didn’t drop in all the way is already correctly engaged with the cam. Rotate the engine and you’ll see the rotor rotating before it fully drops down. Amazing isn’t it.😂

[@rickyfulks889]

It doesnt make a rats ass where the rotar button points 😂

[@AutoRestoMod]

Yes, and no. It doesn't matter, you can put it where ever you like. BUT Ford put it there. So I do that so it is where a Ford "typically" did. That act is for the next guy not me.

[@charlyreyesolivares197]

Hey sir 👍👏

[@AutoRestoMod]

Howdy

[@boilermaker8124]

I thought you were supposed to vary the RPMs a bit in the first 20 minutes. Not just run at 2000 the entire time. Could be wrong though as it's been awhile. Also, maybe I missed it, what break-in oil are you using and what do you plan to run?

[@boilermaker8124]

I did a little reading and looked at Melling, Comp Edelbrock and Summit. Directions on break-in vary between manufacturer and type of cam. Both on RPM range and if you should vary the RPMs during break-in so who knows.

[@AutoRestoMod]

We are breaking in with the thick break in lube and high ZDDP diesel oil.

[@blacksheepautoworx5304]

Varying rpm is so that you get optimal oil slash on cam for lubrication. It’s the splash from the crank and rods and atomization of oil in crank case that lubricates cam. So steady state rpm may not be optimal. With lifters and cams today take all precautions including light break in springs if high lift

[@boilermaker8124]

@@blacksheepautoworx5304 I read that too when looking into it. I didn't find any manufacturers that cautioned NOT to vary the RPMs. They either recommended doing so or didn't say one way or the other.

[@blacksheepautoworx5304]

I agree with you on the info for sure. I would run up to 2000 rpm for a bit than start varying rpm at that point small revs, then up and down again.

[@bigfish8473]

Could you guys please help me. i have spent 2000 hours thousands of dollars on a restoration, and I can't find the door seals for the car anywhere. it is a 1963 ford fairlane 500 4 door. i really would like to finish this car for my wife. if you can help i really would appreciate it.

[@Paulie1232]

Opps, shit happens 😊

[@AutoRestoMod]

Yes. and ugh.

[@jondavis7058]

Jeff, are you going through manopause?

[@AutoRestoMod]

periodically.

[@cutworm59]

You are plenty schmart Jeffro. This could and will happen bunches of times. But not to you and us faithful watcher's.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Thanks! I don't feel real schmart right now.

[@johnbarker5009]

Sure hope the engine is OK. SOMETHING about the current world of engines, break in of a flat tappet cam has turned into an absolute roll of the dice. There are a lot of theories out there as to why, but if someone has definitively answered what's causing it I am unaware. I've seen it happen to people I know who've been breaking in engines for decades.

[@AutoRestoMod]

There is a problem at times with "the race to the bottom" we seem to be in. I hope this is just an issue of old worn parts and not an issue of bad lifters. The engine never sounded "hurt" only off on idle.

[@philb386]

Man this was hard to watch.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Harder to experience.

[@jesseduke694]

Look, I do think u guys are class acts bbbbbbuuuuuuttttttt, dropping a ford distributor really isn't that hard. I'll give it to u that the chevy is easier, but the issues I see u guys struggle with & what I hear you teach are myths? They are the problems that chevy guys struggle with should they be confronted with a ford. But those that work with fords on the regular learn how to skate right past any of those struggles. Witch brings me to my question. Are u guys closet chevy guys?? Look, it's ok! I'll still watch ur show! I won't think less of you! With the issues u have, I couldn't possibly!!

[@AutoRestoMod]

There are times when they drop right in. Especially if you pulled one out and are just going back in with it. New installs are problematic sometimes. I've had them fight I've had them drop. I am a Ford guy...no like literally, my last name is Ford. LOL Please tell us your secrets for a one and done drop. Or eehh drop on by and show us! we love visitors. [e-mail]

[@jesseduke694]

@@AutoRestoMod what state u in?

[@Rusty_Dents]

Ok, now, what's with all the dramatic background music? This is car stuff, not Jaws or The Shining. What's next, makeup costumes? Always enjoy the content, but easy on the manufactured drama

[@AutoRestoMod]

Far as I can tell Rusty, that there was some real drama. The music is just ambeeancee.

[@Rusty_Dents]

@@AutoRestoMod then why add ambience when it's not needed? The content and knowledge is great, and I definitely appreciate it being family friendly, but please don't Hollywood it up lol.