FORD MT-82 Transmission - Reassembly

[@davidapp5804]

Well done, thanks for your insight. Best way to learn is to get involved and try and further your knowledge along the way. I am rebuilding a MT82 at the moment, its hard to find accurate technical information regarding the rebuilding process. Thanks to you and those who have responded to your post. All this product knowledge sharing helps prevent human errors and hopefully makes for a more reliable rebuilds. Cheers.

[@paupmaster2k]

My 2018 GT 3/4 gear shift forks finally gave up. 1st owner. Made it through 87k gear banging miles. I was lucky some people didn’t make it past 20k miles. Still able to drive it. 4 speed lol. Time for a tremec. Thanks for the post!

[@ericwillis5031]

I'm really glad you made this video! I'm doing a rebuild myself and all the other videos on this transmission are kind of vague this is well explained and easy to follow along with.

[@camyota]

What size pipe did you use to press the parts back onto the output shaft?

[@xan7603]

Hi again.. another critical thing on the MT82 rebuild you REALLY need to take notice of, and this is really important, is the output shaft position with the drive flange back on. I have see sooooo many MT82 boxes fail ( big time) because of this ! So you pressed the rear case on , I mentioned earlier how this should be done , but anyways, Special note should be taken when you remove the drive flange on the strip, note, and maybe take a picture of where the output shaft is in relation to the flange, it should be about 1.5mm below the machined nut face of the flange ... This is REEEEAAly important !!! When you pressed the drive flange on the output shaft was in a down position. What I mean by that is the 5th of the synchro is sat down on the input shaft cone. If the output shaft isn't pulled back through the drive flange there will be no "air gap" between 5th cone and the synchro and will bind and eventually go bang !! The other reason is the gears on the output shaft will all mate incorrectly and that will cause a HUGE fail as well. Difficult to explain , if you understand what I mean let me know , if not I will make some drawing and try and post them .......... Cheers Alan/.

[@josezepedaable]

I am currently rebuilding a mt82. Is there any way you can provide some pictures of what you are trying to explain here?

[@ameenayusuf]

I need your help I installed an oem throw out bearing in my mt82 i put everything back together when i started the car i heard a humming noise when i press the clutch pedal it goes away but when i release the pedal it comes back I didn’t drive the car yet when it was down I checked the input shaft it had very very little play what do you think it may be

[@Fluxy71]

how much would a mechanic charge you think to replace 3rd gear with cyncro?

[@charlesjackel2247]

How does one remove the reverse light switch from the top of a MT-82 transmission without removing the transmission from a 2014 Mustang GT?

[@miketaylor8688]

So, did you have any issues with your 6th gear engagement. All of the other gears in my transmission engage great except for 6th. The shifter moves back into place. It just doesn’t engage.

[@jamesrodriguez8790]

hey so this last week all of sudden i was drving my manual mustang gt 2012 and noticed if i put my car into 3rd gear it would rev the engine it seems like i lost my 3rd gear, all other gears felt fine, my question is what do you think got damaged and needs to be replaced?

[@hussainammar-yb7vm]

I did a rebuild to my mt82 but i have problem with 4th gear it makeing a grind noes and not going into the gear when i took it of a found no porblem in the 4th gear pr the slider I suspect that my inside shifter is having some problems can i text you to get some help ? I'll be so thankfull

[@ucfkid67]

Anyone have any cores? Im looking for a few for rebuild. Thanks.

[@cocacola3269]

Awesome

[@blairevans9819]

Hey i was wondering if you had a torque spec for the counter shaft bolt that goes through the front of the bell housing?

[@dream_killer_racing]

westprecisiontool.com/FILES/GT/mt82%20specs%20&%20torque%20values.pdf I think it’s in the above link

[@blairevans9819]

Thats a handy chart but the counter shaft bolt is listed but dont have a specification. Just my luck lol

[@dream_killer_racing]

@@blairevans9819 maybe a tech will be able to chime in later, I just gave it a couple hits with the impact 😁

[@blairevans9819]

Yea thats the route i think im going to go with to. What did you do the second time you tried to press the rear case on so you didnt break the shift rod bearing? I just destroyed one of mine lol

[@dream_killer_racing]

@@blairevans9819 when I pressed it I took my time and while pumping kept rattling the rod around to be sure it wasn’t binding. Did this by hand when I could and later a screw driver with the smaller gap. Once there was roughly a 1/4 left to press I figured it was in the hole and just pumped it down the rest of the way. Having everything squared up is key for sure

[@ZUKE12345671]

Hiya mate ! just thought I would drop you a line to tell you I have a different log in now. Hows it going ? Alan MT 82

[@samjohnson7325]

As a fellow idiot "ruining" a classic muscle car with an M120, this is going to be absolutely awesome, what are your plans for Engine mods/power levels?

[@dream_killer_racing]

Thanks! I’m excited to see the end of this as well. Power level for now will be the stock 400hp but after we get it all all lined out in a year or so I’d like to do a pro charger mod and amp it up to 6-700hp. What’s the muscle car you’re ruining?!

[@samjohnson7325]

@@dream_killer_racing I have a 1969 Mach 1. 98 sl motor, i have a gt500 mantic twin disk modified to fit the engine and a 2013 challenger tr6060 with a gm input, and a modified stock v12 bellhousing. I’m still in the beginning stages of the actual swap. I’ve had the transmission adapted for over a year and the car has the front end cut off for rust repairs, but the project sat stagnant for a few reasons, and I just got around to getting a frame table made so I can rebuild the front structure Funny you mention the pro charger, I’ve been on the fence between staying mostly stock, staying NA and adapting some ITB’s , and twin turboing it, and my buddy just pitched a d1sc he’s had laying around for a while that I’m heavily considering using now so we might end up having similar engine builds too. Lmao, Have you made a decision on management, or are you keeping the stock electronics?

[@dream_killer_racing]

@@samjohnson7325 dang let me know if that d1sc is available 😁 as for an engine management system I’m looking at the ms3 pro. Likely do batch fire and sequential injectors. Or at least that’s the plan. What about you? Sounds like ya got a hell of a setup as well!

[@samjohnson7325]

@@dream_killer_racing I’ve been on the fence on it. I may go ms3pro as well butI want to try and run it full sequential if I can. trying to find an ecu that can do 12cyl sequential and also doesn’t cost more than the engine is not fun or easy

[@dream_killer_racing]

@@samjohnson7325 I agree, when we started looking at options it was far and few. I like to have a community behind the product as well so I can ask questions etc that others may have experienced in a different scenario. I’m hoping that’s what we will get for going with the ms3 pro and batch fire. Now if holley made som modifications to allow for a v12 on the spark side I’d be all over that as they have enough components to generate the injector drivers. Just need them to make a few changes on the software lol

[@jg11596]

I'm considering buying a late model Mustang with the MT82 manual and have read this has weak shift forks and possibly other weak internal components. Maybe some design flaws also. Does your MT82 make the trans perform better and more reliable? The trans is my main concern about buying the car. Thank you

[@camyota]

Really bugs me hoe they designed this transmission to have to be pressed together like that. Putting all kinda of lateral pressure on those bearings.

[@bad89coupe]

Your reverse synchro is on upside down 🤦🏼‍♂️

[@aliagaozelford9479]

Teknkyu

[@dream_killer_racing]

Your welcome 👍🏻

[@xan7603]

Hopefully you haven't put this in a vehicle yet .... there is a problem that will cause you to take it out !!

[@dream_killer_racing]

Currently everything is still in the mock up stages. What’d ya find?!

[@xan7603]

@@dream_killer_racing Hiya mate ! as I said on your strip video I have stripped and built literally thousands of these and wrote the manual for Land Rover and Ford ....,. you did well getting it apart , with the tools you had... lots of , not mistakes , but not the right way stripping but you got there...well done . Here's a few things , common mistakes I saw in your rebuild . 1. you knocked the input shaft (p10) into the bearing . That's not good practice as it causes a thing called " brinelling" and can lead to bearing failure. Youtub !! Microscopic indents left by the impact grow over time and cause the bearing to fail. 2. The countershaft , (P11) ...same problem ..they are not to be pressed into the case UNLESS the inner race of the bearing is fully supported . Both input and output shafts have the bearing inners heated to 90-95 deg allowing the shafts to fall in !! 3. And I reckon you might have worked this out already , to remove 1st - 2nd selector fork you remove the roll-pin and slide the selector rail out . That way 1-2 synchro stays together . I could go on.. and often do lol !! So with regards the rebuild. A common reject from the test booths is " no sel rev" Now I noticed a few differences in the MT82 box you stripped and Halewood ones but , the ones At Halewood (reverse synchro) which come in from outside , the outer sleeve has spur teeth on one side only !! L:ooking at you video the teeth were facing "up" meaning the blank side is facing the reverse (P8) . This will cause a "crash" selection or no sel ' reverse . This happened not that often . As I said you box wasn't built at Halewood so " could" be different.. but is it worth the risk ?? Last thing. The rear case is not a press fit !! first you need the box in gear...(we used 3rd ) that locks, via the blocking plate (thats why you hit the bearing!! The two dowels should be knocked back and with it in gear the output shaft is heated to 90-95 deg allowing the rear case to slide on. But you did really well !! Oh by the way did you "match" the outer sleeve on 1-2 synchro with the inner indents ?? Cheers Mate....Alan. If you send me the details off the rear case I'll tell you where it was made !

[@dream_killer_racing]

@@xan7603 great write up and thanks for the input!! I knew I was basically wandering through the dark on this, but nice for someone to shed some light. I hope others get a chance to read this and can learn from my mistakes. I’ll have to look at the other boxes to see about the rear gear. If I recall there was only one way it would go in but I could be incorrect. Also I’ll follow up with some of the items you mentioned above to be sure. Thanks again for all the info!! 👍🏻👍🏻 and glad to have you watching these! Cheers mate!

[@xan7603]

@@dream_killer_racing Hiya ! just have quick look at this video , you will get a better look at the reverse synchro ... you will see there are no teeth on the outer of the syncho ...kzbin.info/www/bejne/qGq7naiDn95_b8k

[@mikepetrilli4686]

Mustangs are such a piece of junk. I could put up with the engine tick, cheap plastic interior and glitchy electronics, but that crap Chinese manual 6 speed in the GT was the last straw for me! Sold the Mustang after 2 months! I bought a real car, with a quality transmission and couldn't be happier! No wonder Ford stopped making cars...I guess we should all be thankful for that!