Ford Ranger/Madza BT50. Crank-No Start..What checks can be made before parts are thrown at it?

[@paulthompson1654]

12.oov at battery is typically is a symptom not the cause in many cases. 12v = 50% capacity revised starter is available from the later models . A partly flat battery can trigger fault codes for cam and crank . check list compressions /glow plugs / maf/map sensor clean / injector bleed off =saftey valve in rail / injector pump screen clean / glow plug amperage draw / starter / battery / primer =airleaks

[@JosueGavilanes]

Hello I from Ecuador, and I want to know where I can buy parts for mazda bt 50 / 2008 (Website)

[@djmobileautoservices]

Hi not sure. Try partsoup

[@vladutdandu8017]

what type of senzor was it?

[@djmobileautoservices]

the Map/Baro sensor

[@upendranaidu5017]

I have same issue crank no start put new crank sensor and cam.sensor .. no fuel spraying out of nozzle

[@upendranaidu5017]

I have injectors out but conected to the rail so i can see the spray ..got pressure in rail.because the relive valve release pressure after pressure build up in rail

[@upendranaidu5017]

Any suggestion ? Can the bent flywheel be the issue because engine was rebuild

[@LAKERS4LIFE-g1i]

@@upendranaidu5017 may have to check the Inlet flow metering valve aka suction control valve. Remove it and place you finger over the hole while someone is cranking. If pressure is building within the fuel high pressure Pump. You should be able to keep your finger over it. The check you rail pressure sensor. If it is close to the desire pressure. The ECU wouldn't fire the injectors

[@toby621]

My ranger would not start Earth whire on injector rail No problem since

[@djmobileautoservices]

Glad you got it fix. Thanks for watching

[@terryg5784]

Battery. More like the pressure relief valve at the back of the fuel rail has failed. The way you keep pumping the fuel pump (which should get to a point where you can't pump anymore) indicates to me, the valve is passing. Gentleman on WildSideAdventures_SA had the same issue, which cost him thousands till he found the faulty valve.

[@djmobileautoservices]

Thanks for the info but this was not the issue. I was pumping because when I got to the shop that called me out for another job. I heard them cranking the truck to get it started and I just jump in to assist. They changed the glow plugs and other things prior to me get there

[@terryg5784]

Starting rough but then runs perfect when at operating temp?

[@terryg5784]

Took me six months to find my problem. Hard to start, ran rough till hot then a rocket. Previous owner had spent thousands trying to find the problem, not easy when it’s not throwing a code. I knew it was electrical so tested all the sensors….good. Then all the wires back to the PCM/ECU…….nothing. Plugged the PCM back in, ran perfect. I believe the issue was slight corrosion on the terminals so one or more sensors weren’t getting 5 volts. I do remember testing earlier the volts to the glow plug relay and got 3.6 volts. Thought it odd but didn’t think anything of it at the time. At 3.6 volts the sensors think the car is already hot so adjusts the air/fuel mix accordingly. Of course when the car does get to operating temp, alls good. Not saying it’s your problem but maybe.