2011-2012 Ford F-150 3.5L Ecoboost Hard Brake Pedal: Electric Brake Vacuum Pump Replacement

[@FordTechMakuloco]

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[@giovannigiorgio8962]

QUESTION: How much time does it take you to complete a 5.4 3V timing job on an '05 F250 in real time? Thank you in advance for your reply.

[@robertehlers7586]

¡The

[@thomaswatkins7789]

Hello will the vacuum pump cause the IWE to stay engaged? Mines haven’t gone out it super Loud stop I know it probably weak.?? But my passenger side IWE keep engaging drive side not so much. Brand New IWE

[@C.J_the_Goat]

I know you are busy but a long form step by step for transmission swap on an F150 would be so much fun. Your timing chain 4 part series was great!

[@floater81floats37]

I second this!

[@woolval1793]

Just did this today, 10-13-2023 on my 2011 F-150 Ecoboost. It was an easy job. I got lucky, the two mounting nuts underneath came off without much of a fight. Thank you for posting this, gave me confidence to do it. Semper Fi!

[@danielmckee2716]

Excellent help. My pump makes an awful noise at startup, the thumbnail to the video is what saved me. I had no idea what part to search for, not knowing what the noise was coming from.

[@HuskyKMA]

Like a clicking rattle noise?

[@fredsalter1915]

Every one of Brian's Ford videos is worth its weight in gold. Thank goodness for you, Brian! Please don't stop posting!!! 🙂

[@woolval52]

This is excellent. I've been hearing a pump running and it has started running a LOT more, also louder. From the location of the sound I'm sure it's this brake vacuum pump. This looks like a job I can do. Thank you for this video. My 2011 F-150 Eco Boost has 171K miles and continues to be a great truck. LOL, I just know, being 71, I'll end up cutting and bruising my arms. It's just how my arms now at this stage of my life. I used to ask my dad "What happened, where'd that big bruise come from on your arm?!". He didn't know... and now I understand because they "appear" on my arms too.

[@etarasov]

My 2011 started making a terrible dry bearing noise at start up, and occassionally at stop lights. No hard pedal. Turns out this vacuum pump was the culprit. Thanks for the video. Install went super smooth.

[@HuskyKMA]

Was it a clicking sound? Mine has started having a clicking sound that lasts 3-4 seconds coming from this area.

[@etarasov]

@@HuskyKMA No clicking for me

[@jeremiahschneberger-dh2co]

I wish I lived closer. I’d so pay for diagnostic. I really hate I can’t trust the dealership anymore. I’m so glad you create these videos. It may take me 2x longer to do myself but at least I’m putting a torque wrench on instead of just a rattle gun. Thank you good sir.

[@donmedina8089]

I did the replacement in about 1 hour. Saved me like $500.00 by doing it myself. Thanks

[@Kansas-Trains]

You're Absolutely one of the best people on KZbin who does it all in alerts, TSBs and on and on for the Ford Truck owners. So TY very much 😊🙏🤔🇺🇸

[@devinproctor412]

Just wanted to say thanks for putting the video together. I followed easily and everything went in smoothly. I couldn’t have done it without your awesome video. No more hard break pedal at startup!

[@billburkart9087]

I wish there was a version of you out there for all makes and models. You are very easy to follow. I had a 2002 Ford ZX2 that had a intermittent starting problem I replace the starter twice the battery and the ignition switch among other things. I finally donated to the veterans because I did not trust it for my wife to drive.

[@kevinkinrade2421]

Thank you for the video, after paying Ford 4 different times to change this pump, your vid just saved me $485!

[@ChrisTiernan-n8p]

Great video and part link! Dealer wanted $2100, local shop $1100, doing it myself $420. Thank you so much for the help! 2011 F150 Ecoboost with 175k miles.

[@joebauersr.5972]

I just did this replacement in my driveway. This video was perfect! Saved me about $600. Thanks so much!!

[@buixrule]

I cannot tell you how much I appreciate this video. Thank you from the bottom of my heart. My son's 2011 F150 3.5 eco has just been diagnosed with failed vacuum pump. Rock hard pedal at startup, blown fuse.... I'm definitely doing this myself because of your video.

[@rodpeddle1085]

Thanks!

[@rf159a]

Do I wish I lived closer to you!! I have a 2006 F150 and I would have you go over the whole truck and fix whatever needed fixing!!

[@davidbarkley7559]

This video could not have been any easier to follow while replacing the pump on my 2012 f150. Especially the tricks like heating the bolt to separate the pump from the bracket. Thank you!

[@stevecipriani2867]

Thanks! enjoy your videos

[@gregsharp1438]

Best how too video, great camera work, clear and concise!

[@anthonykendrick1418]

Great info and video. Even over the engine noise, you can actually see and hear the pump come on. 👍

[@wayneschnaak762]

You are the man! I like the extra attention to detail and painting the old bracket!Nice work here as usual.

[@76dhb76]

I used PB Blaster on the bolts and let it sit. Was able to get it apart. Very difficult but no broken bolts. Thanks for the video.

[@brian1110]

Thank you so much for making these videos. Glad to know if my 2012 Eco ever has this issue (137,000 miles), I have the confidence to fix this with your help

[@tommychristian1120]

You’re the man I finished the project today! Thank you

[@nukestrom5719]

Superb. I don't even have a truck but a fusion hybrid and this video will help to understand the general assembly.

[@jackb.nimble4146]

Thank You! Mine was replaced once already and now is making terrible noise again. Getting worse as the temp. keeps dropping outside. Looks easy enough to do it myself and thanks for the discount price!

[@mattmartens3749]

Fantastic instructions. My 2012 eco boost is under 150K miles so I will call ford tomorrow to see if they will still honor it.

[@jbstrongman]

Thank you. Just saved me $220 in labor that my local shop wanted

[@MicahFunk]

Thanks for all the details you cover in the video. Seems like the source of air should go through a drier or at the very least should come from the cabin air to prevent moist air from getting into the system and causing issues with the vac pump.

[@SmittySmithsonite]

If FoMoCo weren't so concerned with pinching pennies, I'd wager some good engineers could've devised a system that works reliably using zero pumps whatsoever. Thank God automakers don't build aircraft parts! 😂

[@jimmyadams7747]

thanks man.this was a lot of help.great instructions.only problem i ran into was the plastic retainer clip broke when i was removing the hardline.luckily i was able to use loktite plastic welder and so far so good

[@frederick6008]

Hey Brian, hope you and your family have a wonderful Christmas 🌲

[@daveallen2169]

Great video! I had corroded bracket studs and I didn’t want to snap them off. I used lots of penetrating oil and patiently loosened and tightened the nuts until they came off with no resistance. I then chased them with a die and anti seized them. The T20 mounting bolt comes off easily with a Torx bit and vise grips on the head of the bolt and turning them both simultaneously. Thank you for the video as I would of had the same issues you did.

[@mosasa1307]

please reply, i know its been a year... what penetrating oil did you use?

[@danny88dh]

That truck is in wicked good shape for 275000 miles

[@johnviewer2305]

If you're a ford tk owner and not subscribed to this channel...see ya at the dealership....great job Brian....as usual...

[@mahalo9898]

Great long form step-by-step video.

[@michaelmurray121]

Good morning Brian another great video peace and love bro💪🏿

[@jamesbruno5896]

Excellent info as always thanks Brian!

[@RickTester]

Great info. I have a problem with my iwe vacume and a hard peddle at start up. Most likely the cause. Thanks

[@robertgeslison]

Thank you so much for this video. It was so helpful and saved me a lot of time and money!

[@J_J_Ander]

Any 5.0 video's coming.

[@MarioDallaRiva]

Always nice to see a long form video from you, Brian! Yo, Alex! 👏🏼

[@diconustra]

That explains why I needed both feet on the brake to stop my 2011 F150 EB. :)

[@roshj9371]

Really? I removed my pump several months ago and have been driving around without one. I feel no difference in brake feel or pressure

[@stephaneaudette6665]

Wow i like verry detailed information like this. Thank you very much for the information

[@mikechiodetti4482]

Well thought out video! Good tech tips also. Thankyou for this video.

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Ford used to use vacuum orbs - multiple ones in some cases, to assist with vacuum back in the day. Doesn't look like there's a single one on that truck. I'd bet with a big enough one, engine vacuum would probably be enough so long as everything was leak free. Sure beats a failure-prone $700 pump! Back in the day, I had a '78 Cutlass that someone put a Goodwrench 350 in with at GIGANTIC Crane cam - a 292H. Not the first choice I'd have made for a street car, especially with the stock stall converter, lol. I used to get taken by Ford Escorts off the line until that cam woke up at 3k! 🤣It had a metal vacuum canister that was probably a half gallon by volume. Massive. That's the only way the power assist would work! Thing barely idled, lol. Creeped like hell at traffic lights. Cops used to love that car - they'd stop me every single time they saw me. 😂

[@richardthomas1743]

Hello and thank you for educating us!

[@danny88dh]

Thanks for the detailed video and that link my man very very helpful!

[@nealrehm6895]

Brian, thanks for the lesson! I had no idea the industry was using electric pumps for the breaks. I should’ve known cause what would you use in electric vehicles! NWR.

[@alansanchez6235]

Awesome video! Just replaced mine. Saved a lot of time. I might be paranoid now but is the new pump supposed to be humming a bit when you press brake?

[@paulfiebke3909]

Man that sucks. Keep up the good work

[@phcllc24]

223k miles on my 2011 and its still going. Heck, i have never even checked the transmission fluid level. I just change oil at 5k, no later.

[@SmittySmithsonite]

My neighbor has the same truck. Worked the hell out of it towing heavy trailers all over the east coast. Engine just blew up at 330k miles. Pretty good run!

[@mclovin0486]

Same here 2011 with 222k, same pump. What's really crazy is I just replaced the original headlight bulbs about 6 months ago.

[@TheOnlySgtRock]

Great video. Curious why you didn't put anti-seize on the bolt at the end of the vacuum pump, especially after commenting about it during the disassembly.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yup I did just off camera only needs a light coat

[@mblahay]

I need guidance on replacing the mechanical vacuum pump due to oil leak. Do you have a video out there for that one?

[@scottjaphet]

Great video thanks @FordTechMakuloco ! Is there any periodic lubrication or maintenance to these that can prolong the lifespan or help w a noisy one that hasn't fully failed yet?

[@juanlanda2441]

On the one im working on, the end at the intake boot. Is connected to a pcv valve type of gadget that doesnt appear to hold vacuum.

[@keitheagle4633]

Can you relocate the pump from the front fender back to underneath the rear seat would that take care of all the moisture problems

[@laserman87]

does this vacuum also work for the HVAC controls and the 4 wheel drive?

[@paulmcmullen914]

Any suggestions on a brake warning light that comes on when accelerating? Nearly always on uphills (especially on ramps). 2015 F150 3.5 ecoboost. Good fluid level, no leaks, brakes work fine. Nobody seems to be able to solve this. Suggestion for a new video.

[@FilFil-b4i]

I’m having that problem on a f150 ‘10, but I see that your video is for ‘11 and up. What will be my problem? Thanks.

[@watrski]

Brian arent those milwaukie lights nice!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yup I have them all.

[@joeplank7778]

Can you do a video on the cold start long crank for the 09-14 f150 ecoboost?? Doesn’t happen when warm. Sounds like an exhaust leak for about ten seconds after start then that goes away. Hard to find any concrete answers I see alot of guys with the issue on forums. Thanks!!

[@AJ12-76]

Brian any thoughts or ideas on how to fix the terribly mushy brake pedal on the 2019-2022 Ford Rangers? They all come through with a pedal that feels like it is going to go through the floor boards before the brakes actually grab

[@manfrummt]

Fuse 64 is the moon roof on my 2011 expedition

[@mosasa1307]

This is for the f-150 3.5l v6 ecoboost not an expedition..

[@JWimpy]

What was the Motorcraft Anti-corrosion chemical you mentioned in the video?

[@philipmackin1025]

Watch it again, just saying....

[@FordTechMakuloco]

PM-13-B

[@JWimpy]

@@FordTechMakuloco Thank you. That is the info I was needing. Have a great day.

[@pauliekruger7639]

What calls for the pump to come on? My pump is ok, but no 12 volts. The #64 40 amp fuse is good, changed it and put it back in. ?

[@paulfiebke3909]

Keep up the good work

[@mikedalton4697]

Great video

[@MadeleineNix-ec3uq]

How do I know the pump is going bad or the brake booster? I have a hard pedal in reverse, I go forward, turn off car and restart sometimes it fixes the problem. Otherwise I back up, and start driving and the problem goes away.

[@calholli]

Can you think of any reason why they would leave out that right side isolator? Is that to maybe let it have more movement? I personally would have definitely stole one of the old ones and shoved it in that empty hole, because I don't really care about NVH, and I'd rather have it more secure.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yes it is for NVH reasons.

[@victorgarcia5036]

Hi, Mr. Makuloco. I have 2012 f150 5.0 xlt it has left front brake locks on, I replaced front calipers and check hoses everything else okay and still have same issues. Do you have any video this specific truck that can help me out to solve the issue I’ll appreciate it. Thank you.

[@tadheflick5862]

Change the brake lines. The metal hanger rusts on the inside and pinches the line just enough to cause this problem. I thought mine looked to be ok but turns out they weren't.

[@td7227]

@FordTechMakuloco hey man I have this truck a 2011 f150 eco boost. I just replaced the vacuum pump and it still constantly still click on and off. Do you have any help with something I can do. Like I said I just had a brand new one put in. Thanks

[@j.r.sivernell5829]

Would a bad vacuum pump or bad brake booster sensor cause a code P0236 -turbo boost sensor circuit failure on a 2012 F150 3.5?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

no

[@olspanner]

Excellent "how to" video

[@juanlanda2441]

It's easy enough to change, how do you test it . Don't we want to make sure the booster isn't leaking . And what about that funky pcv valve/ breather, that doesn't hold vacuum

[@robs4517]

Is this only an issue for rust belt trucks (moist areas) or is it widespread in dry areas as well?

[@johnbrock395]

My 2012 F150 is now ready for it's second pump since new. Northern Ohio. Lots of salt on the roads in winter.

[@Twobarpsi]

Excellent video!!

[@repro7780]

How about this. I have a 2014 Explorer Sport Ecoboost. If it sits overnight, for instance, when I go to start it in the morning, the brake pedal will be very stiff, but does travel enough for me to start the car. Once the engine turns over, the pedal effort goes away back to normal. Is this a problem like this, potentially?

[@TommyG11814]

A bit unrelated but what do you think of someone pressure washing a engine compartment and not covering the electronics, just curious.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Never do it.

[@TommyG11814]

@@FordTechMakuloco thank you, exactly what someone who knows what there doing would say

[@scotty1armpimpin]

my brakes work again but the pedal still feels a bit stiffer than before do i need to bleed or anything

[@RickSettle]

I have only driven Ford trucks for the past 45 years. Every one of them since about 1988 at least, has used 5-20 weight oil. My 2016 with a 5.0 Coyote engine has 5-20 on the oil filler cap. I just this morning was looking through the owner's manual and found the recommended oil is 5-30 weight. I've been using 5-20 since I got the truck. And I just changed the oil yesterday and put 5-20 in it. Am I headed for trouble?

[@mikekokomomike]

Lincoln dealer was putting 5w20 in my sister's 3.5 EcoBoost MKT even though the oil cap said 5w30. They replaced timing chain set completely at 60,000 under warranty, chain was stretched. I have used only 5w20 in my 4.6 F150 since new. A 2004, no problems.

[@91Z50]

What would the Ford dealership do about the broken stud? Just curious.

[@philipmackin1025]

1 Hr of shop time extra.....

[@91Z50]

@@philipmackin1025 ok thanks

[@timf6916]

Good job.

[@jgep3723]

I was able to drill open the cap and get it working again. I still keep a new one with me just in case.

[@miceinoz1181]

Vehicles last if you maintain them (and if you do not live in the rust belt).

[@JuanVega-ns5ok]

I rev the engine a bit after I start it. Next, I press the brake pedal until I feel I have brake vacuum assist. A $500 part is not in the budget

[@joaquinangel8366]

Ey como cambio la cruzeta del eje de enfrente la de enmedio

[@frontball2754]

Here's one that I've got multiple mechanics scratching their heads over. Maybe you might be able to point me in the right direction. My closest Ford Dealer is over an hour away, and coordinating a way for me to leave my vehicle there and get back home is quite difficult to say the least (Girl friend works away and family doesn't travel there hardly at all). I've used 2 local mechanics and spent hundreds of dollars (over $500 CAD) and have not solved the issue. Looking for a direction to maybe try myself (I'm very computer literate and tech savy, and if I can see the value in a tool, I'll likely get it) or at least give my mechanic a direction to attempt before throwing more parts at it until it's fixed. My 2014 F150 5.0L has slowly developed a crank-no-start issue. The problem; whenever the temperature is about -10 to +10 Celsius (14 to 50 Fahrenheit) the truck will turn over and over, and then honk the horn when it can't start. Sometimes I can try multiple times and finally it will start, or I can hold the gas peddle to the floor and release it as soon as it fires up. No matter which way I start it, it smells like fuel coming out of the exhaust immediately after and runs rough for a few seconds before evening out. Makes me think there's some sort of temperature reading that's not working correctly, causing it to over fuel only on startup. When I hold the throttle down, it's likely allowing more air through the throttle body to lean out the mixture enough to fire. When it's really really cold (Like -40, Celsius, Fahrenheit, doesn't matter since they're the same) it starts no problem, doesn't even hesitate. When it's really warm out, same thing, starts no problem. It's getting really frustrating. What direction should I take to look at the problem? Is there a fuel map, sensor reading that I can monitor/graph during startup somehow? Maybe I can relay this to my mechanic to diagnose it? A new MAF sensor and fuel driver did not resolve the issue. One thing that did happen before all of this started was I had an oil change done at an oil change shop, and they checked/showed me the the air filter. I went almost a full year before noticing that they never closed the filter box properly, and could have had dirt and dust completely bypassing the intake filter. Not much I can do there because I can't prove it was them (even though I'm 100% positive, I have no evidence). Maybe that royally screwed something up in my 5.0L motor?

[@oby-1607]

Just waiting for this to happen on my 79 F-250. It just doesn't seem to have these problems.

[@chrisforker7487]

Gotta wonder why they don’t use that one isolator?

[@deetee3153]

No anti seize on the bolt?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

yes a small amount and I coat the heck out of the two studs down below.

[@TonicofSonic]

Call me crazy but I feel like whenever I leave the dealership my brake pedal and steering are always tighter than before.

[@mikekokomomike]

That is because your wallet is lighter

[@Josemartinez-ii6ro]

I have the same problem, my model is the same, just a different year, 2013, but the part is not in the same location.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

You don't have an electric vacuum pump

[@Jacob1986]

I wish there was a way to relocate or shield it a bit more. Really bad that it doesnt last long

[@luckfound9455]

I took my pump out to see why it was causing such a racket a couple years ago. The plastic housing was plimped up from being jacked by the corrosion. I put it back in and it still makes a horrible noise but seems to be functioning still. Not looking forward to dropping the cash for a new one even at the discounted price.

[@luckfound9455]

Around 176k kms on my 2011 fx4

[@JimBronson]

I suppose if you have this problem and your vehicle does not have an electric pump like this (2010 Navigator), you need to make sure you don't have vacuum leaks, and if you don't then it's time to replace the brake booster. Side note - my air suspension pump sounds just like that brake system pump.

[@darryldoty888]

I wonder why U didn't put neverseize on the back of the pump attaching bolt for the next if it has to be serviced Also would have been smart to apply neverseize on the brackets bottom attaching bolts for future service too !! 🤨 Maybe squirt some silicone on the head lamp rear sliding on attaching pind also for future service for even for just replacing any bulbs 🤔

[@FordTechMakuloco]

I did apply anti seize when I was pulling all the hardware out of the bag off cam. It is a small thread so only requires a very small amount. I do not put anti seize onto the studs of the vacuum pump bracket until I have slid it into the core support.

[@darryldoty888]

I apologize, I didn't see U actually apply any neverseize in the video I'm a former mechanic that always took extra precautions when reassembly parts back on jobs Incase I'm the one that has to work on the vehicle as that one there had boco miles that might be back in the future if that pump failed again I have a request, I have a 2014 F150 Tremor 3.5 Ecoboost with only 30K on it as I only occasionally drive in the summer months in Upstate Rochester NY Could U do a new catch can install I heard there should be inline hose check valves to prevent blow back threw to hose lines that might not have been in previous videos Also do U think at 30K the valve cleansing is required at that mileage I use Mobil 1 Thanx Keep up the great work & videos

[@geraldcadyii5772]

So, this customer has replaced that pump 4 or 5 times, correct? Only $3000-$4,000.00 for vacuum pumps plus whatever else might have gone out over the miles driven (timing chains plus extra, and maybe turbos)? Nice!

[@philipmackin1025]

This was #3, 700x2+500= 1900. Plus shop time but we don't know what that was, i'd guess 1.00 hr ea time

[@FishFind3000]

And they say luxury German cars are expensive!

[@justaresiguy6197]

Awesome video man! I remember when mine went out on my 2012… made an awful noise!! On another note, do you or anyone else have any experience with the newer 3.3L F-150? I don’t tow much, and I’m just curious how reliable they actually are? You see many of them in the shop? Just looking for something basic and “bulletproof” as guys say. Thanks!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

I have never seen one.

[@JimBronson]

They're pretty hard to find, except for the rental companies seem to have them for sale. There's a few at the Avis rental place in San Antonio about two hours away, all F150s with the 3.3.