How NOT to Apply a Ceramic Coating when Detailing

[@jakethegsd]

Can't believe it's taken me until now to realise Mohs is "Show" upside down.

[@01123581321341]

it took me ages too !

[@waxmanvids5015]

named after Mohs Hardness Scale.

[@taip9040]

I am so happy I didn’t say that first. Now I can act like I knew that all along. Lol

[@roscopervis]

​@@waxmanvids5015 this is correct.

[@tychovanvelzen]

This test is going to answer many of my questions! Thank you so much for doing this 😃

[@ForensicDetailing]

yer me 2 I wanted to explore this.

[@ikonane]

You should link the result video in the description and/or pinned comment.

[@DavidC1]

Jon I use a primer because the buff of the coating is much better in hot humid environment for me 😊

[@johnmccolgan2177]

Going to be a long wait Jon. But it's going to be worth it. I used to use washing up liquid to strip old wax off, so this makes sense. Can't wait to see the results. Great video 👍

[@skodakatie7341]

This will be a very interesting experiment, and the outcome will determine my future pre costing prep regime. Personally I do think that the section with the coating primer will fair the best, all will be revealed in six months time!!.

[@ForensicDetailing]

I'm seeing something I didn't expect after first wash a week or so later I'll post an update

[@roscopervis]

Proper testing! My preferred option is to polish the panel, use Feynlab Pure Rinseless to help with the wipe off and remove the oils. This leaves nothing behind. Then, use panel wipe and finally coat.

[@peterplumsklo5365]

One thing to keep in mind is that prep is rather weak, something like the new Rupes Strong, Sonax Prepare and the Gtechniq panel wipe should all be much much stronger at removing polishing oils

[@ForensicDetailing]

we have tested this, yes its a tiny bit milder but this is less about the prep product.

[@owensteele1645]

Jon, have you thought about making a video covering all the various carpets that different types of cars tend to use? At the moment, many valeters like myself are struggling with so many cars with looped-pile carpets that are taking half a day to vacuum out properly (Fords, Volkwagen Polos and Golfs mostly). We love it when we get BMWs, Lexus, and some other sports cars that use excellent thick carpets. It would be interesting to hear your account of why that is, and why so many manufacturers are cheaping out on carpet quality.

[@ForensicDetailing]

Hate that fuzzy cheap carpet, would be good to list all cars with it.

[@youbencowell]

Why do manufacturers cheapen the bits they think they can get away with? Profit!

[@grantgwyn1992]

I do enjoy your videos

[@simonbradshaw3708]

It would be really useful to have a video of applying Gyeon Skin on top of MOHS, showing the pitfalls and how best to apply it. I've found it very difficult not to have high spots,. although Gyeon MOHS applied fine.

[@ForensicDetailing]

We did this recently

[@cameronjones6079]

Strange… I had absolutely zero issues applying skin. Found it easier to apply than MOHS itself. Easiest wipe on wipe off going

[@archiepezek]

Jon, correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you have to wait 24 hours after using Gyeon Primer before coating the car to get the full benefit of the product? I know the car can be coated before the 24-hour period, but I thought that the additional chemical bonding advantage of the Gyeon Primer would be diminished if the car is coated before full curing of the primer. Great video once again. Thank you.

[@ForensicDetailing]

You can wait 24 hours or wait one hour and use prep. Not sure what performance difference is.

[@OraEtLabora0]

😉Jon, how about asking Yvan to send you their Golden Standard polish and their ceramic-coatings, for test? 😉 they do that with other tubers...

[@ForensicDetailing]

its prolly easier to just buy it then get it shipped over mate cuz of import duty

[@shoemaker924]

Great video. You should test coating without buffing the panel vs buffing it, along with mixing in panel wipe usage.

[@ForensicDetailing]

if you dont buff you will get a very very very very thick layer of coating that should last a lot longer but it wont be like right (finish wise) I actually dont buff the barrel of the alloy when i put it down for this reason.

[@mkprodetail8714]

Great video, John. I am interested to know your thoughts on Carpro essence. Apparently, it does the same Jon as the Geyon primer Thanks

[@ForensicDetailing]

yes I think its the same sort of thing, SI material based polish that leaves a layer of resin filler that a coating can bond to.

[@jezmendoza1718]

Hey Jon, great idea for a video. Enjoyed it and your videos have really helped me get the confidence to apply my first ceramic coating. I’m doing synchro this weekend and I’m scared! I’m using a Rupes LH12E duetto, yellow or white Rupes pads and the da fine and uno pure for paint correction. I want to do a one step on my white Toyotas - Hilux and gunmetal RAV4 (2021 models) with barely any swirls. My question is how much cut do you think these Rupes polishes would provide - do I start with the uno and yellow pad or go da fine and yellow, or just start with uno + white? Would hugely appreciate any advice

[@ForensicDetailing]

mate yellow and DA fine will be suitable for soft paints. blue course is very agressive unlikely you will need this.

[@JamieCole-wl9lo]

would love to see you do this with hydro carbon that’s not had a chance to vape, also I’ve noticed whilst removing ceri glass which is water based that non water missable solvents have a hard time removing it, home brew ipa does a better job, would it be safe to assume that this means depending on how your chosen polish is carried is what type off solvent is needed to properly degrease, so many variables in this. This must be why gyeon advise to degrease with hot Water and shampoo first to give the panel wipe a head start. so many variables in this and it has to be the main reason why Lsp’s degrade faster then stated and why people get wildly different durability results.

[@ForensicDetailing]

Could be m8 yer

[@YeCannyDaeThat]

For me these prep products are a bit snake oil'y. 70/30 IPA homemade IPA mix is all you need to completely strip and prep the panel. After wiping 70/30 on a panel it will completely wet with water. It's naked. You can buy IPA dirt cheap from a variety of sources.

[@ForensicDetailing]

a 70/30 mix of IPA and water will not completly strip prep a panel. It wont really touch fresh waxes or sealants. But in terms of polishing oils: the format of the polish component will effect that. A solvent based polish will reject any water miscible alcohol solvent. Hydrocarbon panel wipe more effective in that instance. A water based emulsion polish will be removed more effectivly with a alcohol based panel wipe but you would still want small amounts of volatile surfactant in your panel wipe to help the oil portion of the polish mix combine with the panel wipe. either way though the main reason ISO alcohol based panel wipe is desirable is purley down to how well it gurentees it will evaporate off the panel. It has a much faster evaporation rate and a lower flash temp than hydrocarbon. Hydrocarbon must be used in workshop environment to consistently provide higher temperature needed to flash 10 deg+ desirable for most. versus 0-4 deg for alcohol. plus hydrocarbon can take a lot longer to completly flash sometimes 10 mintes or longer. ISO wipe will leave panel hydrophillic during flash as its a polar solvent. Hydrocarbon will leave it hydrophobic as its non polar. IPA is no longer dirt cheap. used to be 10 pounds for 5 litres for bonnymans back when I did my homebrew panel wipe videos many years ago. post covid its 20-30 now. post covid there was little hack where Koch chemie did not increase the price of SIL (which is basically neat IPA). that was the cheapest way to do it. but they realised quickly :) now yer 5 litres of 99% prf IPA mixed down with DI water cheapest option. Ive tested detailing panel wipes versus home made ones on the channel. Detailing ones are generally more powerfull at removing materials (waxes, acrylic resin, silicones, polishing oil) but yes you can overpay dramatically on the price with some.

[@YeCannyDaeThat]

@@ForensicDetailing what an amazing detailed and thoughtful reply, on an older video too so thank you sir! What would you say to using Acetone? too strong? I used to use straight petrol as a (very effective mind you) tar remover. 😬🤦‍♂

[@JB-E36]

Great video once again. I have a question Jon. After having applied a ceramic coating, the towels you use to buff, can they still be used after a wash? And what is the best way to wash them?

[@ForensicDetailing]

just wash them normally in non bio but relegate to other non paintwork tasks is best mate.

[@JB-E36]

@@ForensicDetailing Ok, and why is it better to refrain the used towels for paint/bodywork purposes?

[@Zoranurai13]

@@JB-E36 its highly likely the crystals from the coating become solid and using them on paint is almost certain to put in scratches

[@JB-E36]

@@Zoranurai13 Ok, thanks mate! And if I throw them in the washing machine right after buffing?

[@martin1649]

@@JB-E36 new video idea. but not always will you have the chance to put only a handful of towels in the wash and the resins dry within minutes after applying the coating, perhaps throwing them in a bucket of water and dish soap might slow the drying down..

[@DavidC1]

Nice

[@kevinbarton98]

Jon, where are your external mics?

[@ForensicDetailing]

Inside. Doh good point

[@davolyncho5992]

Anyone know of any current good deals on DA polishers? Ireland based.

[@rickdolton-h8j]

could just polishing the paint, then performing another contact wash with something like GT decon shampoo be a good alternative Jon? rather than then using an IPA wipe before applying the ceramic?

[@ForensicDetailing]

well yes this is the thing we are trying to explore, the benefits of a water based degrease with surfactant.

[@01123581321341]

Yes that would be an equivalent alternative. A decon shampoo will be a strong degreaser and remove the polishing oils. Provided you rinsed and dried very well it would actually be superior in a way. The reason people don’t is the extra time that takes and particularly the fact you’re contacting the paint again and risking installing defects you just spent hours removing.

[@PixelVogue]

if only that tape was a mic so we can hear what you're gibbering on about.....lol

[@dj_paultuk7052]

Hi Jon. Interested in your thoughts on this. My car was resprayed in Dec and through Jan I mopped and refined the paint to an unbelievable finish. I then used Prep to clean down the paint and "Carbon Collective Perfect Paint" ceramic coating was applied. The car was then left for about 3 days in a garage before it was touched. It looked amazing. Now some 4 months on, i have been washing once per week, sometimes once every 2 weeks with Carbon Collective Ceramic maintaining shampoo. I did this today and to my horror i can see hazing and hollograms already in the finish. This coating was supposed to be 7H hardness. So is this a crap product ?. It should be able to survive simple washing. Thanks in advance for any advice.

[@ForensicDetailing]

non OEM paint mate would be my guess here it tends to be a lot softer than most OEM paints. So remember the coating will be sub micron. The coating is so very very thin it cant really provide much measurable scratch resistence, but it should make the car easier to clean and more dirt peel during pre washing. Use a chenille mitt on it mate that will help but very gentle pressure when you wash and dry, maybe air dry might be the way forward mate.

[@dj_paultuk7052]

@@ForensicDetailing Thank you for the reply. Its got a clearcoat on it so i was thinking it maybe harder than the 30yr old factory paint. Maybe not. OK will try your advice. Cheers !.

[@1stfrompuertorico568]

Nice!!