How To: Develop Color Print Film (C-41 Process)

[@bhop0073]

I use the same kit. People don't realize how easy c41 is. I don't have a jobo, but I do it in my kitchen sink all the time. I actually just did a couple rolls before work this morning.

[@chentiangemalc]

Looks good. I just built my dark room and starting out with B&W 35mm, but plan within next year to get jobo or similar and move onto 120 film, large format, and color slides, negatives and prints...Great to have all this info on KZbin...I'm loving the dark room process, the anticipation waiting to see the final negatives/prints, the unique results different film/developers/paper give, and not spending hours in front of a computer editing/reviewing 1000s of photos ;)

[@JoeyShip]

Don’t buy a Jobo. That Jobo setup is well over $3k alone. Not to mention his film dryer. If you are newer to developing film, this video alone can make home developing feel out of reach. Realistically, it’s not super cheap, but if you plan to develop and scan your own film and plan to stick with the process, it’s worth the expense. Realistic tools: For temp control, get a sous vide or one of those new cinestill tcs-1000. This will allow you to quickly, and accurately, get your chemicals to specific temps. Looking at around $100. Patterson hand tanks are fine to use. You won’t be able to walk away because you have to agitate every 30 seconds, but it’s easy. The medium tank is $35 I think. Fits 2x35mm or 1x120mm. Squeegees are $10-15. Drying: get some film clips that you can hang from your shower curtain rod. The bathroom is a great place to dry your film because of the very little dust floating around thanks to the shower being used everyday. It’ll take a couple hours to dry the film this way. The clips are under $10. Dark bag: you’ll need a dark bag to get your film onto the tank reels without exposing them to light. Very easy after the first time you do It. Dark bags run about $30. That’s literally all you need. Under $200 worth of supplies and you’re ready to go...then upgrade as you see fit. Film developer per quart/liter runs anywhere from $20-30. Film scanner with great results for “amateurs” is the Epson V600. Runs under $200 from amazon and at Freestyle for $220. My $0.02.

[@Richardsumilang]

I've been developing film at home with the cinestill kit. Everything probably cost me under $200 new. It's fine and did probably a dozen rolls fine but honestly its not that fun. The huge thing that makes the jobo appealing to me is the hand lever to change the chemicals. Yes $3k is a lot for one of these things but there are used ones out there for a fraction of the price. Been trying to make my cinestill system more efficient but if I can make developing less annoying then I'd still have energy left to want to scan my photos lol.

[@adaminsanoff]

Absolutely true!

[@MrHerrera805]

Yeah, that’s how I do it. It’s a bit tiring when doing many rolls but I love it.

[@conorabc]

For plastic reels, try to find ones that have a larger “tongue” where you start the film on the reel. It is 1000% easier for me to get my film spooled with that one. It’s compatible with Paterson tanks. There seem to be a few styles of those white plastic spools floating around. I have one with the short tongue and I can do it, but it takes me much longer to get the first few inches on the spool.

[@filmasart]

Very cool. I’m looking to buy a Jobo this year since I moved away from my lab to a rural area. I haven’t hand processed for 15 years but excited to finally get back to it! Great video I’ll be referencing in the future.

[@Lawful_Rebel]

I've developed C41 a few times now (the Compard liquid kit). I found it tricky maintaining higher temperatures.. So with my last effort, I extrapolated the temperatures down and developed at room temperature for about 24 minutes.. It worked surprisingly well. That Jobo is a great piece of kit.. Wish I had the space for it ☺️

[@pereraronshi]

Awesome videos man, keep them coming! Just wanted to ask what you recommend doing if you don't have one of those film dryers?

[@tadsouden4059]

Hey Travis, Thanks so much for your C-41 color develpment video with JOBO CPP2, very helpful! I have one question however, do you always leave stabilizer on your negatives? And no final wash with water? Also with the water you use, do you use distilled or normal tap water? A buddy and I are developing our own film here in Australia and your knowledge is super helpful, thanks again!

[@massimodadone3797]

Great movie very interesting, I'm buying a CCP2, I saw that you use the Gralab timer, how did you connect it to the jobo to control the start and stop of the cycle? Thanks

[@mamiyapress]

Thanks for this video, I was very nervous to do C41, I don't know why as I have been doing B&W since 1981, this will give me the confidence I need to try it.

[@RobBob555]

pussy

[@saidanehabib]

Nice video, at what speed did you shoot the color print film?

[@jaisbr]

What is your process when you scan the negs? I've been struggling to get correct colour, don't know if it's a processing error or I just have to get better at balancing in post.

[@DJWeekly]

Great video! What kind of film dryer is that and where can i get one?

[@friskybuddha]

I'm wondering why the water level in your Jobo is so low. The instructions state that the film tank should be half submerged in water to maintain temperature. Do you know something that doesn't require that much water? Thanks.

[@bradymillersk8]

Hey dude I'd love to see a hands on shooting review with some older cameras and maybe your graflex. And showing the results. I thought about doing one with a Polaroid and shooting skating. There aren't many people who have done hands on shooting with film cameras.

[@albertogarcia1386]

Hi there, thanks for the video. I did 8 rolls of 120 with the Tetenal kit, they came very well. I have seen other people doing a water bath before the develop, but in the instructions doen't say anything about it, is this important? Thanks

[@exceptionalnotary9529]

What is the name and model of the Film Dryer that you show at the end of the video?

[@bublt4me]

Hi Travis, I was wondering whether or not you add more time to the development and blix for each subsequent roll. Every tutorial I've seen looks like it only accurately applies to the first roll.

[@josephbergel5234]

For those of us who were doin this before digital .... and who do not want cancer ... we wore gloves and at least a mask and goggles .... I know your young , but you owe it to your viewers to teach good habits ... especially if your calling your self a “lab” or “business”....... plus I hope there’s ventilation for your dogs sake

[@7FilmRevenge]

I have some questions - Do you wash your processor before recycling the blix? Doesn't it get contaminated with developer if you don't? -How many times can I use the chemicals before it goes to waste? How many rolls?

[@Richardsumilang]

Heya, have you ever tried developing vision 3 film at home with your jobo? Wondering what the process would look like with this and removing the remjet. Thanks!

[@mikkotoiviainen7653]

Have you guys processed any Vision3 35mm film with your Jobo? Just wondering what's the easiest way to get the remjet layer off from the film before normal processing... Thanks!

[@Lawful_Rebel]

Mikko Toiviainen I've found just using warm water works very well, and just rub it off gently at the end of the developing process, before the stabiliser step.

[@ropersix]

Spehmaster G., do you recommend using something like a coffee filter to strain the developer and blix when putting it back into the bottle for re-use (in case some of the remjet comes off during development)? Film Photography project recommends it for film with the remjet, but I've never seen anyone in KZbin videos doing it, and it would be a huge extra step. I haven't done any movie film yet, but am preparing to.

[@billfitzpatrick6565]

Thank you, this video has been very helpful.

[@Chalito5]

Great videos dude. Quality information.

[@berniethuman1956]

Jobo recommends a 5 minute "Pre-Warm" (no water in the tank, but rotating in the trough) versus a "Pre-Wash" as shown here.

[@Fjalll]

Isn't the stabilizer supposed to not to be agitated with?

[@brentdrafts2290]

how deep is the reel, into the 600ml chemicals, when rotating horizontally? Does the spirl of the film pickup and carry the chemicals across all surfaces?

[@backwardphotography4011]

Love the vid man! Thanks!

[@RandellJohn]

Can you use the Jobo Tank to develop colour prints? I develop my own colour negatives in hand tanks, and scan the negatives. I have an LPL Colour enlarger and I'd like to actually use it to make colour prints, but I don't want the expense of buying an automatic print machine. If Jobo make a tank that will hold paper then your machine might be a cheaper option.

[@ForesthillFilmLab]

Randell John yea you sure can! The jobo has paper drums and the ability to heat your RA-4 chemicals to develop the paper. The jobo does it all!!!

[@tasost2161]

Hello can this lift modified and work in another conteiner that uses sousvide to warm chemicals ?

[@themikepadua]

Thanks for doing this!!!

[@homesickphotographycomau4107]

should the water be filtered or distilled or just tap water

[@JacopoTofani]

Hi, whats the model of the timer that you use? I cant find so big anywhere, thanks! Ps, very nice job!

[@JamesVn53]

Looks like a GraLab 300

[@stefanovalentino5727]

Hi! I live in japan and I want to develop film by myself and I already research for it. There is a lot of kits like tetenal kit, unicolor kit etc. But they don't sell it here. Instead they have Fujifilm Superprodol and Kodak D-76. How can I know the developing time needed if I cannot find the film series on digitaltruth.com? I have Fujifilm Superia Premium 400. Please help me. Thank you so much

[@Dave51262]

How do you dispose of the chemicals? That seems to be a roadblock for home developing as you can't just pour down your sink drain. Thanks.

[@Richardsumilang]

I just throw them in my neighbors plants.

[@musclecarsforever]

There are cheaper alternatives (although I'd love to have a jobo too), you can try a roaster oven or an Anova Precision Cooker.

[@MihaiMalaimareJr]

do you use a squeegee for 4x5 color negatives? if you do, what kind? thanks

[@RobBob555]

one with a magnetic gooses vagina imprinted on its memory.

[@hlron]

Do you have enough water in your processor ? the tank doesn't seem to even touch the water surface.

[@ForesthillFilmLab]

hlron ya know honestly I never would set the water level to be high enough to submerge the tank. And these days I actually heat my water separately from the jobo because of the old heating units failing me. So far I haven’t seen a decline in my results from doing this

[@hlron]

@@ForesthillFilmLab I understand, thank you for taking the time to answer me. I 'm a beginner sorry if my question may have bothered you. I can't wait to see new content from you on darkroom techniques. Thank you . :)

[@vaneaauzeac4401]

You can make a stop bath between the developer and the blix in two ways 1 a 1-2 min wash and 2 a glacial acetic acid solution 3% a green blue solution will come out

[@ivangoondic]

Hey guys... Has anyone tried building a JOBO-like processing station for C41 color film development? If you havent seen one, google "jobo pcc2" So its basically a plastic tank filled with water that is being heated with some kind of an electrical water heater+ thermostate and Its used to heat both the film tank and the chemicals stored in bottles and submerged in the same heated water. It also has an elecromotor that slowly spins the film tank so that it develops evenly and so on... Using this you have 2 constant values in the developing equation...constant spinning and constant temperature. So you only need to keep your mind in mixing chemistry good. The problem is that this piece of mid last century equipment costs around $1500 up to $2000 on ebay...I think thats crazy... So I fugured... STEAK COOKER! :D They sell these slow steak cookers (or "sous vide" cookers for like $50 on ebay and its basically a precise 800W water heater that you pin to the rim of the pot and it keeps a constant water temperature and it even has like a small motor that corculates the water around so that it heats evenly to the temperature that you set. What I wanted to try is to put together the cooker on the rim of a large plastic tank, a small electromotor that would spin the film tank in water and some sort of a plastic frame that would keep the bottles with chemicals submerged. I thought that in order not to get electrocuted to death, it would be wise to fix the electromotor on the wall next to the tank, and spin the film tank via some sort of a transmission...like a rubber band or smth. And the film tank...I would hot glue the bottom of the tank to a large magnet so that it would be easy to pull it out from the transmission to pour the chemicals in and out of the tank. What do you think? Is there something that I'm missing? Has anyone tried something similar?

[@randallstewart175]

The Jobo rotary processor is probably the most expensive unit of its type, it has a reputation of not being the most durable, and repair parts are expensive. As an alternative consider an insulated film processing drum and a drum roller base. I use a Unicolor Film Drum and Unicolor drum roller, commonly available on ebay for a small fraction of the cost of the Jobo. You need a seperate water tank to keep solutions warm; I use a beer cooler with a fish tank heater. Otherwise, the process is about the same.

[@ForesthillFilmLab]

Randall Stewart those are some great alternatives thanks for the info! I found this processor for $400 locally! So needless to say I had to buy it!

[@stevek8829]

Does an aquarium heater go up to 100° f?

[@Meloen5]

How many times can you re use the developer and blix?

[@Meloen5]

Also, the fixer, how many times can you use it? And I have a Patterson squeegee too, and I kinda hate it...it scratches my negs, must be a faulty one, bit haven't used it for a while

[@ForesthillFilmLab]

I've processed well over 30+ rolls with a kit like this but I usually find that time is the variable that exhausts the chemicals. I usually re mix chemicals often just because they are cheap and I don't want to find out that they have gone bad. But so far I haven't had any rolls not turn out at all because of developer issues. Yea the squeegee part kinda sucks but without it the stabilizer will leave hard white spots all over the film that is very difficult to clean off. I wish I didn't have too but the few times I didn't I noticed very quickly how necessary it was.

[@danielrock4144]

You can just add photoflo to the stabilizer. It works great and no more squeege and scratched film

[@ChrisPugh]

How much does a JOBO cost?

[@EDHBlvd]

It is a sick machine. I'm curious as well.

[@connorbuckinghamstudios6227]

about $3,300

[@TheEndSquared]

Endothermic = absorbs heat Exothermic = produces heat

[@andrewford80]

Pretty sure you're not meant to remove the stabaliser with a squeegee

[@andrewford80]

but a cool video all the same. great to see people working with film still.

[@55lucinio]

good video on how DON'T develop C-41

[@kaibafly]

Jobo =/ $1 a roll

[@EnGee23]

What kind of film dryer is that, and where did you get it? I mean, you can't just show sh*t like that, casually putting the film "into the film dryer that happens to be over here" and not answer questions about it. Is this supposed to be an instructive video?

[@harrynew340]

Never never ever use a rotary processor for c41 film ,the flow of chemistry over the emulsion is variable from the inside to the outside of the spool ,ie the outside gets 200 % more agitation than the middle. To prove this shoot and process 36 frames of a grey card then print without changing the filtration on the enlarger you will be horrified . The only way is in a tank agitated by inversion . C41 is not a finality process ,time / temp/ and agitation are all a variable that MUST consistant for easy printing .

[@brentdrafts2290]

i see i wasn't crazy to load two 120 onto a reel..lol

[@johngessner]

I used this Jobo back in the early 90s when it probably first came out, and parts were easy to get. Are you finding parts an issue? Curious because I am looking to find one but most are used so parts will have to be readily available. Cheers www.johngessner.com

[@CavemanPhotos]

+John Gessner I've had great luck finding parts and support for my Jobo CPP2 from Omer Hecht at Catlabs of JP. Great info on his site and I think he repairs them, too. Did you know there is a now new model Jobo? I think it is the CPP3, using many of the same parts and motor as the older models.

[@johngessner]

Nice thanks. I am getting ready to do a photo darkroom shipping container project. Really want the Jobo to be part of that. Film is not dead!

[@thiagofabiao]

OMG thats so wrong stab bath is supposed to be done OUTSIDE JOBO and wear gloves

[@harrynew340]

Is no one listening ,rotating a film drum on end develops the film with uneven colour temperature along its length because the center of the spool is moving slower than the outside EVER WONDERED WHY YOUR PRINTING FILTRATION VARIES SO MUCH . drum film processing is a printers nightmare dont trust all this mechanical bullshit the only way to dev a film evenly along its length is by by deep tank or hand inversion of daylight tanks .

[@homesickphotographycomau4107]

maybe your not filling the tank with enough water to start with